Shuri Castle (首里城)
In the early morning of October 31st, 2019, a few days before I had planned to publish this article, a fire broke out at Shuri Castle and it is reported that much of the World Heritage site has been destroyed.
The loss of Shuri Castle is likely to be one of the most heart-wrenching events for the people of Okinawa since the Second World War considering the important role Shuri Castle plays in the cultural identity of the Ryukyuan people.
While this was originally a travel article with information to guide tourists to the castle, it should be fairly obvious that the castle will be closed for quite some time and that while the castle may be rebuilt yet again, it probably won’t be for quite some time.
My thoughts are with the people of Okinawa at this time and I wish them the best of luck.
沖縄、応援しています！
Its fair to say that when most people plan to travel through Europe, it’s likely that they’ll end up visiting quite a few castles. The continent is known for its castles, which are today major tourist destinations rather than fortified palaces.
Over here in Asia? Not so much. When most travelers visit Asia, its likely that they’re going to visit the Forbidden City in China, the Grand Palace in Thailand, Angkor Wat in Cambodia or Gyeongbokgung Palace in Korea.
The popularity of castle construction never really spread to Asia in the way it did all across Europe, except for in Japan and Okinawa where you can still find historic castles dating back to the time when samurais, shoguns and emperors ruled the land.
So, it shouldn’t be too surprising that a trip to Japan these days shares some similarities to a European trip as you’ll probably be including a few castles on your itinerary.
When it comes to castles though, Okinawa is where you’re going to find the highest concentration of them - The small archipelago, which has only been a part of Japan for the last century or so, was once home to more than two hundred castles, pre-dating their mainland counterparts by more than a century.
Unfortunately only a few of Okinawa’s “gusuku” (グスク) are left standing today, but the few that do are recognized as World Heritage Sites and their continued existence is helping the people of Okinawa learn more about their history and their identity.
Link: Gusuku (Wiki)
While there are efforts to reconstruct some of Okinawa’s castles, most of what you’ll find today is in ruins except for Okinawa’s most important castle, Shuri Castle - the former royal palace and stronghold of the Ryukyu Kingdom (琉球王國).
With a history dating back more than five and a half centuries, Shuri Castle has been destroyed and reconstructed on several different occasions.
Fortunately after all this time (and all the terrible things that have happened in Okinawa over the past few centuries), the castle sits proudly high atop its perch in Naha and is open to the public for tours allowing the world to learn about the history of the former kingdom and its people.
History
Although the exact date of Shuri Castle’s construction is under debate, it is thought that The castle was initially completed during the late 1300s just before the political unification of the island into the Ryukyuan Kingdom.
In the following centuries the castle was modified, expanded, destroyed and rebuilt several times.
In its capacity as a royal palace and fortress for the Ryukyuan Kingdom, the castle was the home of the royal court and was the political, economic and cultural heart of the kingdom for almost five centuries.
Before Shuri Castle became the home of the Ryukyuan Kingdom it was home to the Kings of the Chuzan Kingdom (中山) during what was known as the Sanzan Period (三山時代).
Much like the “Three Kingdoms” period in China, Okinawa was split into three separate warring kingdoms named “Hokuzan” (北山), “Chuzan” (中山) and “Nanzan” (南山) with the Chuzan Kingdom being the strongest both economically and militarily.
Three years before Sho Hashi (尚巴志) would come to power in Chuzan he set out with his fathers army in 1419 to conquer Hokuzan. Then, a decade later he finally seized Nanzan Castle which united the three kingdoms into the Ryukyu Kingdom.
Link: Sho Hashi (Wiki) | Ryukyuan Kingdom (Wiki) | Sanzan Period (Wiki)
The Ryukyuan Kingdom, despite its small size, played a key role in the maritime trade networks of East and Southeast Asia which made it an optimal port of call between China, Japan, Korea and Southeast Asian nations.
As a tributary state of the Ming (明朝) and later the Qing (清朝) dynasties, the Ryukyuan Kingdom enjoyed special privileges and protection thanks to its close relationship with China. The Chinese for their part assisted the kingdom by sending officials to assist with its governance, international relations, business and military matters.
While the history of the Ryukyuan Kingdom is fascinating, I don’t want to delve too deeply into its history with this post, so I’m just going to offer up a timeline of important events that have to do with Shuri Castle in particular so that you can better understand its history.
Shuri Castle Timeline
Late 1300s - Shuri Castle is constructed for the Chuzan Kingdom.
1421 - Chuzan annexes Hokuzan into its territory.
1429 - Sho Hashi captures Nanzan and unites the three territories as one.
1429 - The Ryukyu Kingdom is established with Shuri Castle as its capital.
1453 - The castle is burnt to the ground.
1458 - The Bridge of Nations Bell is placed in the Seiden.
1470 - Construction of the Main Gate and walls are completed.
1477 ~ 1526 - The castle is expanded and several buildings are added.
1660 - Fire destroys the castle for the second time.
1672 - The castle is rebuilt.
1709 - Fire destroys the castle for the third time.
1712 ~ 1715 - The castle is rebuilt again.
1853 - Commodore Perry arrives in Okinawa and visits the castle.
1879 - The Meiji Government in Japan annexes the Ryukyu Islands thus ending the Ryukyuan Kingdom.
1923 - Shuri Castle transforms into the Okinawa Prefectural Shinto Shrine.
1925 - Shuri Castle is designated a National Treasure.
1945 - Shuri Castle is destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa.
1957 ~ 1989 - Restoration and reconstruction work on the castle.
1992 - Shuri Castle Park is partially opened to the public.
2000 - Shuri Castle is recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
2019 - Shuri Castle is once again destroyed by fire.
Places of Interest
There is quite a lot to see and do while touring Shuri Castle, so when you visit you’re going to have to be prepared for an action-packed couple of hours of learning about the castle and Ryukyuan culture and history. Unfortunately there are quite a few areas within the interior of the castle where photography is prohibited, so I’m going to simply point out a few places of interest below where you’re able to take photos and give a brief description of them, their significance and their history.
Shureimon Gate (守禮門)
On the road to Shuri Castle you’re going to pass through quite a few gates but few of them are as significant or as important as the Shureimon Gate. The gate, which is designated as a National Treasure was first constructed between 1527 and 1555, but unfortunately had to be reconstructed in 1958 after being destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa.
The gate is constructed in a traditional Chinese architectural style known as “Pailou” (牌樓式) with beautiful red pillars and an arched roof with red tiles constructed with “Aka-Gawara” (沖繩赤瓦), a local type of clay. The large gate is intricately designed with a two-levelled arch roof, a plaque resting between the two levels and beautifully decorated tiles locking the pillars of the roof in place.
Link: Paifang Gates (牌坊)
The inscription on the plaque reads “Shurei no Kuni” (守禮之邦) which loosely translates as “The Ryukyu Kingdom is a land of prosperity” (琉球乃為重視禮節之國) but is known to locals simply as “Lino Ayajo” (上之綾門) meaning “The beautiful gate at the top of the hill” (位於上方的美麗之門) showing the amount of respect that the local people give it.
The gate tends to be a busy place and you’ll probably notice tour groups stopping in front of it to take group photos as it has become one of the defining features of the castle.
Sonohyan-Utaki (園比屋武御獄石門)
Close to the the Shureimon Gate stands the “Sonohyan-utaki”, a sacred stone gate that dates back to 1519 and is considered a sacred space for the local Ryukyuan folk religion. The gate is only ever opened for a Ryukyuan King, so it is perpetually closed, but is recognized as one of the important pieces of the castle grounds.
In truth, most tourists are likely to pass by without paying much attention due to the fact that there isn’t much literature explaining its significance, which is unfortunate. The gate is said to be a perfect example of traditional Okinawan architecture that brilliantly combines Chinese and Japanese designs.
Although the gate was heavily damaged during the Battle of Okinawa, it was restored in 1957 and became a World Heritage Site in 2000.
The ‘sacred grove’ behind the gate however has become increasingly smaller in recent years with the Naha Municipal Josie Elementary School (那霸市立城西小學校) encroaching on its space.
Link: Sonohyan-utaki (Wiki)
Seiden (正殿)
The Seiden, which is also known as the “West Hall” or “National Palace” is the main attraction of your Shuri Castle tour. This building is considered to be the most important structure in the whole of the Ryukyu islands and is where you’ll find the throne room, royal residence and ceremonial areas.
The three-floor palace is lavishly decorated combining the architectural design of China and Japan with elements of local Okinawan design making a completely unique structure.
The decorations on the exterior may not seem that extravagant from a distance, but the closer you get the more you’ll notice all the fine details - Notably the dragon pillars on either side of the staircase as well as the pair next to the front doors are considered to be the most beautiful in the world.
The current version of the Seiden is a reconstruction completed in 1992 that was modelled after the 18th Century design of the hall that was destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa. Using historical records, photos and the memory of locals, the palace was rebuilt using modern construction techniques using concrete and wood.
Considering the palace had burnt down on so many occasions throughout its six century long history, it was probably quite apt to this time construct a more modern version that wouldn’t be so easily destroyed. The wood used to construct the palace was specially imported from neighbouring Taiwan. The red paint that covers the walls on both the interior and exterior was likewise coated with a protective layer of Tung Oil (桐油) from Taiwan.
Unfortunately even though measures were taken to prevent it from burning down again, the castle once again fell victim to fire on October 31st, 2019.
First Floor (下庫理)
The first floor of the Seiden is called the “Shichagui” (下庫理) and was used by the King as an area to conduct affairs of state. Sitting directly in the centre of the large room is an elevated, yet simple throne where the king would sit with spaces on both his left and right reserved for his children and grandchildren. Directly behind the throne is a pair of sliding doors that lead to a staircase (used only by the king) to reach the throne room on the second floor.
The room isn’t very well lit and is painted a dark shade of red, so the decorations aren’t as easy to notice, but the golden dragon pillars located on either side of the throne (which represent the king) are quite beautiful.
There isn’t much to see on the first floor, and once you arrive there you are nearing the end of your tour, so it seems like most people speed through and don’t really pay much attention to the intricate details of the room. If you’re touring the palace, make sure you don’t miss out and pay a bit of attention to the finer details of this room.
Second Floor (大庫理)
The second floor of the Seiden is called the “Ufugui” (大庫理) and is home to the throne room as well as spaces that were used by the queen and high-ranking court officials while government was in session.
Directly behind the throne is a set of stairs and behind that was a shrine room that was used by the king to perform daily religious rituals. The adjoining rooms in the hall behind the throne room is where the women of the court would spend most of the time.
Throne Room (御差床)
The “Usasuka” (御差床) or the kings throne room is the most ornate area of the entire palace and is quite spectacular in its design. The throne is elevated in the same way as it is on the first floor, but in this case the design of the platform where the throne sits is much more intricate. Likewise the dragon pillars on either side of the throne are beautifully painted. Next to the throne itself are another two golden dragons each of which face the throne.
While the Seiden is a reproduction based off of the 18th Century model of the palace, the throne is a reproduction of the throne used by King Sho Shin (尚眞) who reigned from 1477 to 1526 and was recreated using official portraits of the king.
Flanking the throne you’ll find three beautiful reproductions of Chinese-style plaques that were gifted to the Ryukyuan Kings by the Qing Emperors in China.
While still in the throne room you’ll want to pay attention to a display on the far left that contains a reproduction of the crown traditionally worn by the king as well as a few other objects that were either recovered or reproduced and put on display.
Shoin (書院), Sasunoma (鎖之間) and the Garden (庭園)
First, the Shoin (書院), which is located between the Seiden and the Nanden served as the study and the office of the king as well as an area where he would rest and relax and entertain foreign officials. Connected directly to that is the Sasunoma (鎖之間) which was similarly used by other members of the royal family for official duties as well as for rest and relaxation. Today it is used instead as a tea house to help promote and educate visitors about traditional Ryukyuan culture in a memorable setting.
The design of both of these areas is quite similar with beautifully crafted hardwood floors with tatami mats and walls with sliding doors that glow on hot summer days. It’s also important to note that the interior design of the rooms appear to be the most Japanese-inspired part of the entire castle.
Considering that photography is prohibited during the first portion of the tour in the Nanden, I was quite happy that we were allowed to take photos in this area as it really one one of the most beautiful and naturally lit areas of the castle. Unfortunately if you don’t pay to take part in the tea ceremony, you’ll completely miss the Sasunoma and its beauty.
Directly outside the Shoin and the Sasunoma sits the private royal garden where you’ll find a traditional rock garden as well as a plethora of well-maintained local tropical plants. The garden isn’t part of the tour though, so you won’t be able to walk outside either building and will instead be ushered onto the next part of the tour.
Una (院子)
“Una” roughly translates as the “courtyard” and is an empty space surrounded by the Seiden, Hokuden and Nanden. The courtyard is a large open space that was used primarily for receiving guests and holding official receptions.
Personally I was a big fan of the courtyard due to the colour and the symmetry of its design which makes for really nice photos. If you are lucky to visit the castle on a day with clear blue skies, the courtyard in addition to the buildings in the castle will shine in the sun.
Suimui Utaki (首里森御獄)
The “Suimui Utaki” is a shrine-like walled structure that is considered a sacred space in Ryukyuan folk religion. Located just outside the main gate to the castle, the shrine is a simple stone-walled structure that appears to have a large tree growing on the inside. According to the Ryukyu Creation myths, the shrine was created by a god and there are quite a few historic writings, songs and ballads that reference the shrine.
Considered to be one of the most sacred spaces within the castle walls, the shrine isn’t particularly an area that most tourists notice, but I recommend stopping by to check it out before you enter the main area of the castle.
Touring the Castle
Shuri Castle is open to the public year-round. (Closed only on the first Wednesday and Thursday of July)
Hours of Operation
April - June: 8:30-19:00
July - September: 8:30-20:00
October - November: 8:30 - 19:30
December - March: 8:30 - 18:00
Admission Fee
Adult (全票): ¥820 (Group rate: ¥660)
Student (學生): ¥620 (Group rate: ¥490)
Child (兒童): ¥310 (Group rate: ¥250)
Sasunoma Tea Room
Once you’re inside the castle and halfway through the tour there is a beautiful tea room in the former royal study where you’re able to sit, take in the view of the tropical garden outside and enjoy some tea and delicious traditional Okinawan snacks.
The multilingual servers in the tea house will also take a bit of time to fully explain the different desserts that you’ll be tasting and the tea that you’ll be drinking
The price of entry is ¥310 and the tea room is open from 9:30 - 18:00 daily.
Traditional Ryukyuan Dance
As an added bonus, if you visit Shuri Castle on a Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday or a National holiday, you’ll be able to take in a free traditional Ryukyuan dance performance which is held three times a day.
Morning Performance: 11:00 - 11:45
Afternoon Performance: 14:00 - 14:45
Evening Performance: 16:00 - 16:45
The amount of time it takes to tour the castle really depends on how much time you’re willing to pay attention to all the small details, taking photos and the number of other tourists getting in your way.
You could easily walk through the front gates and be back on the bus to Naha within two hours, but I think its probably better to arrive relatively early in the morning, tour the castle, relax and enjoy some tea and traditional desserts in the Sasunoma Tea Room, take in a dance performance and then move on to your next destination.
One thing that you’ll want to note about touring the castle is that once you’ve made your way into the interior area, you’re going to have to remove your shoes and carry them around with you. You’ll be given a bag to place your shoes inside and you’ll be able to easily carry them around but this can make taking photos somewhat annoying.
Link: Okinawa Shurijo Castle Park - English | Chinese | Japanese
Getting There
Getting to Shuri Castle is relatively straight forward and shouldn’t cause too much difficulty for most travelers as it is easily accessible by car and through Naha’s public transportation network.
If you are driving a rental car, the castle can be reached in anywhere between 10-20 minutes from the downtown area of the city and can be reached by using either the address or the MAPCODE listed below:
Address: 1-2 Kanagusuku-cho, Shuri, Naha, Okinawa 903-0815
〒903-0815 沖縄県那覇市首里金城町1-2
MAPCODE: 33 161 526*66
Once you’ve arrived at the castle you will have eleven different car parks to choose from with a fee of ¥960 for large cars and ¥320 for smaller compact vehicles. Some of those parks however range from five spaces to seventy, so you may need to do a bit of searching for a spot if you’re visiting on a busy day. It is also important to remember that these parking lots are a short distance away from the castle, so once you’ve found a spot you may end up having to walk for ten minutes or more to get to the castle.
If you’re taking the public transportation route, simply hop on the monorail at the closest Yui Rail station and enjoy the air conditioned train all the way out to Shuri Station (首里駅). From there you have the choice of walking for fifteen minutes to the castle or taking a bus.
If you choose to walk, there is an ample amount of signage along the route that ensures that you’re not going to get lost along the way. If on the other hand you’d prefer to take a bus, you can hop on either Bus #7 or #8 from the ground level of Shuri Station and after five minutes you’ll arrive at Shurijo-Mae (首里城前) where you’ll get off. The trip should cost about ¥150.
Link: Okinawa Bus Routes
You can likewise take Bus #1 directly to the castle from Naha’s Kokusaidori (国際通り), “International Road” near the Naha City Hall Monorail Station. The ride takes about 15-20 minutes and costs ¥230. If you are staying in the downtown area, this is probably the best option for not only saving time but also saving money in transportation costs. If you take this bus route, make sure to get off at the Shurijo Koen Iriguchi (首里城公園入口) bus stop, which is a short walk from the entrance to the castle.
It would be easy to pass off Shuri Castle and say that its just a reconstructed replica of what once was, but if you did that you’d be making a mistake. The people of Okinawa lost so much during the war, but the reconstruction of this important historic site is the realization of a dream that is helping to revitalize local culture and identity as well as giving the world an opportunity to learn about the once great Ryukyuan Kingdom and its people.
Given its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site, it shouldn’t be surprising that since its completion the castle has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in the capital. If you find yourself in Okinawa and are spending a bit of time in the capital, you should definitely spend an afternoon enjoying a visit to Shuri Castle to learn a bit more about Okinawan culture and history.