2020 in Review

In what has become a yearly tradition, I took some time to go back and read over my year-end review for the previous year, while preparing to write this one.

Looking back, all I can say is that we were probably all a little naive. 

There we were (once again) foolishly thinking that new year would somehow usher in some much needed positivity and world peace. 

Yet within days, 2020 dashed any hope of that happening as a global pandemic reared its ugly head. To say it has been a terrible year for the world would be an understatement. 

People have lived under lockdowns, lost their jobs, lost family and friends and have lived in fear of this virus all year long. And unfortunately, it looks like that is going to continue well into 2021.

Fortunately, it seems like we can end the year with the hope of vaccine distribution and an eventual end to all this pandemic misery. 

Here in Taiwan, the government was prepared for the onslaught of the COVID-19 pandemic and despite trying to warn the rest of the world before things got out of hand, those warnings were largely ignored by the World Health Organization.

Then a few months into the pandemic people started realizing that the WHO wasn’t really doing its job and that Taiwan was one of the only countries in the world that had successfully taken on the virus, while so many others stubbornly fell victim.

From the outset, the Taiwanese government acted quickly to close the borders, set up quarantine centres and a vigorous contact tracing system in addition to promoting social distancing and mask wearing measures.

Having already suffered through SARS, the people of Taiwan had no interest in the same thing happening again, so the measures implemented by the government were followed and a genius rationing program created by Taiwan’s amazing Digital Minister, Audrey Tang, ensured that every citizen and resident had access to masks until there was an ample supply for everyone.

My Unusually Normal Life in Taiwan Amid the Global Pandemic (Bloomberg)

Record 200 Days With No Local Case Makes Taiwan World’s Envy (Bloomberg)

The year of unexpected successes in Taiwan (East Asia Forum)

How Taiwan Beat the Coronavirus (CNBC)

President of Taiwan: How My Country Prevented a Major Outbreak of COVID-19 (TIME)

Then when the mask situation stabilized, Taiwan started a mask-diplomacy program with the slogan #TaiwanCanHelp that saw millions of masks sent to friends and neighbours around the world.

I might be beating a dead horse here, but even though it has been a rough year for so many countries, Taiwan has done an excellent job showing what this beautiful nation is capable of and why it is so important that it be allowed to contribute on the international stage.  

For those of us like myself, who aren’t citizens of this country, but are lucky enough to call Taiwan home, we have benefitted greatly by all the hard work of all those in the government and health care community.

Their tireless work with the cooperation of the citizens of this country has allowed us all to continue going about our daily lives in somewhat of a normal manner.

I’ve always felt a strong sense of pride about being able to live in Taiwan, but this year I feel blessed. 

That being said, not everything sucked this year.

2020 was a year where WOMEN LEADERS got the job done.

President Tsai, Jacinda Arden, Sanna Marin and Angela Merkel, among others showed the world that female leadership makes the world a better place.

The environment is still in jeopardy, but this year carbon emissions fell by the largest amount ever recorded, ownership of electric vehicles is on the rise, over a billion trees were planted and renewable energy continues to grow!

We’ve reevaluated our priorities, how we approach our professional lives and for better or for worse, reconnected with family and friends in a way that many of us never had time for.

And for some couples, all that time spent together helped them realize that they probably weren’t soulmates, after all - Coronavirus-divorce became a real thing in 2020.

Which is kind of hilarious if you think about it.

In many ways, we’ve grown as a civilization throughout this pandemic and the lessons that were learned are some that I hope will continue well into the future.

Personally, I can’t really complain too much.

I’m fortunate to have been able to continue my life in ways that most people can’t back at home couldn’t.

I’ve taken trips, I’ve gone to movie theaters, went to live concerts and even saw the Phantom of the Opera live in Taipei.

Meanwhile my family back in Canada has been forced to endure several different lockdowns and has more or less bunkered down for months.

Like so many other industries around the world, photography (especially travel photography) has taken a big hit and over the past twelve months, most companies have stuck to purchasing whatever stock photography is readily available, rather than contracting someone for new photos. This is completely understandable, as no one wants to put others in harms way. It has forced countless photographers to go looking for work elsewhere and has put quite a few people out of business.

I’ve managed to keep busy with personal projects but my income took a big hit this year. Nevertheless, I’m happy and healthy and can’t complain.

As we enter the new year and vaccines start to become available, it’s important that we collectively keep in mind that we still have so many other problems to solve.

We’ve faced this pandemic head on and many of us have lost family and friends along the way and even though the world continues to be a messy place, we have a responsibility to work together to solve problems, rather than making them worse. 

I think that if we’re able to take something away from this year, it’s that we’re often our best selves when we’re faced with hardship and tragedy. Amid all of our struggles and disappointments throughout this very long year, the human spirit has endured, heroes have emerged and we should be able to come out of this stronger than ever before.

Plans for the New Year

When I write these yearly review posts, I like to look to the future direction of this blog and what you can expect to see over the next few months.

I’ve recently added a new section to the website with galleries of photos with recent work. I’m often so slow to post blogs after I take photos that people often wonder what I’ve been up to. This new page should help with previews of new work and should also give an indication of what to expect in the near future!

I have a couple large travel guides coming up for some locations on the East Coast. I actually have quite a few places to write about from my most recent trip to Taitung and Hualien.

So I’ll actually start to fill up the east coast on my blog map, which is sadly still rather empty.

There won’t be much of a shift in direction for my on-going projects this year, I’ll continue working on visiting places from the Japanese Colonial Era as well as trying to complete my work on the Martyrs Shrines.

My focus on the colonial era will specifically focus on railway-related buildings, the restoration of dormitories, police stations and Martial Arts Halls, among others.

I hope to include some more travel guides for mountainous areas like Taiping Mountain (太平山) and Alishan (阿里山) while also hoping to get back to some of Taiwan’s highest mountain, in addition to another trip to Yushan.

More or less, I’m going to continue along the same trajectory and will also do my best to continue updating older posts, like I have this year.

As usual, for my end of the year review, I’m going to link some of the blog posts from this year that I’m proudest of, as well some of my favourite photos. I’m also going to provide a list of your favourite posts, based on how much traffic they received over the year. 

My Favourite Blogs of the Year


When the Taiwan Railway Museum had its soft opening, I visited to check it out and was delighted with all the amazing work that went into restoring the former Taihoku Railway Building and its transformation into one of Taiwan’s hippest new museums. 

It certainly took me a while to finish this post, but as it is probably the most in-depth article on the web about the history of the building and the museum, I think it was worth the wait. 

I’m a huge fan of this museum and as the restoration work is on-going, I plan to visit MANY more times in the future.

I think you should too! 

Linkou Guanyin Temple (林口竹林山觀音寺)

One of my earliest posts of the year, there is something epic about this jaw-dropping temple.

Even though the photos for this blog and most of the writing was done in 2019, this was one of my favourite temple-related posts of the year.

This extremely photogenic temple is a testament to Taiwanese architectural design, artistry and careful attention to detail. Visiting this one is a visual spectacle akin to that of Roman cathedrals.

Chinese Assembly Halls of Hoi An (會安華人會館)

After my January trip to Vietnam, I embarked on a project of researching and writing about the overseas Chinese Assembly Halls of Hoi An, which is a topic that is not covered very well in English.

The Assembly Halls, of which there are a handful, were all constructed in the UNESCO World Heritage port town by the various groups of Chinese traders who immigrated there hundreds of years ago. 

Acting as a cultural and religious community centre, the Assembly Halls were important for the preservation of culture and language and have become important destinations on the list of places tourists while in town.

With this blog, I introduced the purpose of the Assembly Halls and gave a brief introduction to each of them, with links to the articles about each of the individual halls.

This is a project that took up the first few months of the year, and I’m happy that they’re all available for when tourism starts to perk up again. 

The Taoyuan Valley (桃源谷步道)

Regretfully, I didn’t get to post too many hiking blogs this year.

So I thought with this one, I’d go all out. 

This in-depth post about the popular Taoyuan Valley hike contains photos from the two times that I hiked the mountain this year and provides information on all of the trails that hikers can take to complete this awesome hike.  

Chiang Mai’s Silver Temple

People seem to think that I visit a lot of weird places.  

One of the weirdest places I visited this year was Chiang Mai’s Silver Temple, which is, you guessed it, silver. 

This Buddhist temple is a weird and wonderful work of art that comes across as excessive, but is also a nod to the community of silversmiths that have made a comfortable living in this neighbourhood for centuries. 

But yeah, it is weird, it’s a male-only temple and there are a lot of strange things going on in terms of the art on display, from murals of aliens to the Avengers. 

Suffice to say, even after visited a Taiwanese temple with a real-life mummy on display, I still consider this one stranger.

But I also recommend everyone visit! 

Your Favourite Blogs of the Year


While I’m not entirely sure what happened, my post about the Wanli UFO Village started attracting quite a bit of traffic both domestically and internationally.

A few months ago I was even contacted by a local media outlet for an interview about the village. Which I ignored, because.. well... That media organization sucks and they’re gone now! 

While there has always been a niche crowd of enthusiasts who love these pod-houses, for some reason they attracted attention from all over the world throughout the year and catapulted this post to number one in terms of traffic. 

Looks like I’ll have to update this one with better photos.

Buddha’s World Abandoned Theme Park (佛陀世界)

In a situation similar to what happened above, the ‘Buddha’s World Theme Park’ here in Taoyuan attracted quite a bit of attention and pushed it up to my second most popular post of the year.

In this case I wasn’t contacted by the local media, but when it was randomly shared on social media, people kind of fell in love with this weird semi-abandoned amusement park. 

I’m actually planning a return visit to the park to get some better photos. With all the attention the post has been getting, I’m kind of embarrassed by the quality of photos on the post. 

I’ll likely update the post sometime in the new year. 

Thousand Island Lake (千島湖)

This is another one that kind of confuses me.

I wrote this post a few years ago and at the time only provided a few mediocre photos and a little information.

I guess though, there isn’t much information about the ‘lake’ in English on the internet, so quite a few people arrive at my site looking to find out more. 

This is another one that I’m going to have to update this year, because I don’t think the photos or the information on the post are up to my typical standards. 

Pingxi Crags

Over the past few years, my post about the Pingxi Crags, one of the most popular day-hikes in northern Taiwan has consistently been one of the most popular.

Even though it got pushed to number four this year, it’s one that constantly attracts new visitors. 

This is why I updated it earlier this year with new photos and updated info. 

I guess the long-lasting popularity of this hike means that it’ll be a popular post for years to come.

And if you’re living in Taiwan and haven’t hiked it, what are you waiting for?

Sacred Mother Trail (聖母登山步道)

The ”Sacred Mother Trail”, known in Chinese simply as Matcha Mountain (抹茶山) is another one of those recently popular hiking trails in northern Taiwan. 

These days the trail is packed with (wannabe) Instagram celebrities and models thanks to the picturesque rolling green mountain slopes on neighboring mountains near the peak that are thought to look like massive lumps of matcha, a variety of Japanese green tea.

This hike has become so popular that not only will you find Instagrammers, but also their entire families, their dogs and also a bunch of foreign tourists.

Should you try to hike this one? Definitely. I’d just avoid weekends if at all possible.

Cyberbullying And Harassment In Taiwan

This one is kind of a (dis)honorable mention.

One of the most highly visited articles on my site this year was actually a post about my experience with cyber-harassment over the past couple years with a deranged stalker. 

I didn’t want to include it in my top five blogs as the article wasn’t photography related, but considering how it accumulated tens of thousands of visits and would have been my number three most-viewed blog post, I thought I should at least give it a mention. 

I hope that the large amount of visitors to the page weren’t showing up to learn about a bit of drama, but instead hoping to learn how to protect themselves from a similar experience. 

Thankfully, the Taiwanese government is looking at ways to solve the problems that I addressed in the blog, so hopefully other people won’t have to suffer through the same stupidity I have had to.

Social media can be great, but there are a lot of scary people. Be careful!

My Favourite Photos of the Year


Swimming at the “Secret” Cave

While hanging out on Orchid Island, one of Taiwan’s off-shore islands, I got to spend quite a bit of time swimming, cliff jumping and laying on beautiful beaches. One of the coolest places that I got to visit was a not-so-secret, secret cave where the ocean water is just a bit warmer and you get views like this. 

I’m in the process of writing and working on a travel guide to Orchid Island, which I’ll probably post sometime early in 2021. You’ll see more photos like this one soon enough! 

The General on Film

One of the highlights of the year on the religious calendar in Northern Taiwan is always the Hsinchu City God Inspection, which turns one of Taiwan’s most high-tech cities into complete chaos and celebration in the late stages of the summer. This year I brought one of my film cameras along for the ride and got this really nice portrait of one of the Underworld Generals.

I’m currently in the process of planning and organizing an exhibition of film portraits like this one at a really nice local art space here in Taoyuan, which should happen sometime in the new year.

I’ll probably be announcing that soon enough. 

Resting on the Trail

As I mentioned above, I hiked the beautiful Taoyuan Valley twice this year in preparation for my post about the hike. The first time I did the hike, the weather was forecast to be really nice, but it took a turn for the worse, so I didn’t end up getting the photos that I wanted. On my second attempt the weather was really nice for about 75% of the hike before it started to rain.

While on the way to the top, I stopped in at one of the beautiful pavilions set up for weary hikers and chatted with a couple of older hikers who were having their lunch. After eating, one of them laid down and I took this shot of him relaxing with the beautiful mountains in the background. 

Technically speaking, its not a great photo, but one of the things I love about hiking in Taiwan is that all the seasoned hikers you meet on the trails are all so friendly and even though I often find myself chatting with complete strangers, they rarely ever ask the typical questions that foreigners get on a daily basis. 

National Concert Hall Reflection

Even though the Worldwide Pride Parade is generally held in June, Taiwan’s parade, most often the largest of its kind in Asia is held in late October.

This year though, with COVID wreaking havoc across the world and cancelling many of the world’s celebrations, a smaller parade was organized in Taipei to show solidarity with those who couldn’t march.

The parade ended up being a smaller gathering of only about a thousand people, but it ended up being fun, despite the torrential downpours that forced most of us to squeeze together under the “Liberty Square” gate at Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall

I took this photo of the National Concert Hall, with its reflection on the rain-soaked ground just after the rain let up and the photo became quite popular on social media. 

Monks looking back in Chiang Mai

Just before COVID started spreading around the world like a wildfire, I took a trip to Vietnam and Northern Thailand, where I hung out for a couple weeks just before Taiwan’s Presidential Election. 

One of the highlights of my visit was the northern Thailand city of Chiang Mai where I ate amazing food, hung out in laid back coffee shops and toured some beautiful temples.

One of the coolest places that I visited on the trip was the ‘SIlver Temple’, which is one of the oddest places of worship I’ve ever been to. 

While inside the (male-only) shrine room, a couple of visiting monks came in to check it out as well. I got this shot of them while one of them who turned around to check me out. 

Halong Bay Landscape

What can I say? Halong Bay is beautiful and for a landscape photographer, it’s a paradise. 

Unfortunately the weather kind of sucked on the days that we were there. 

Nevertheless, visiting this iconic bay was one of the highlights of my year. 

Taroko Gorge

I’ve been writing this blog for so many years, traveling around Taiwan and introducing the nation’s tourist destinations, but one of them has always eluded me - Taroko Gorge. 

Well, that problem will be remedied early next year when I post a travel guide for one of Taiwan’s most highly visited National Parks. One which I hope to expand upon several times in the near future. 

I’m a fan of this photo not just because its from Taroko Gorge, but the sharpness of the details of this age-old wonder of nature. 

Qingshui Cliffs

One of my favorite places to visit while in Hualien has always been the Qingshui Cliffs

The cliffs are absolutely beautiful and it doesn’t matter if you’re taking photos from atop a mountain platform or on the beach, the views are spectacular. During my trip to the East Coast, I made sure to stop by the cliffs to check out the view before heading further into Taroko National Park. Fortunately this time I was able to see some new views and see how things have changed in the years since I wrote my article about the area.

I’ve now updated the post with more in-depth info that should help travelers quite a bit. 

As always, I hope that despite all the terrible things that happened this year that we can all return to some semblance of normalcy soon. This has been a rough year for the entire planet and even though we’ve ridden out most of the storm safety here in Taiwan, family and friends throughout the world haven’t been as fortunate. 

No matter where you are, I hope that you and your family are healthy and safe.

We’ve almost got this thing beat.

Let’s hope that the new year will bring some better fortune for our little planet. 

Happy New Year Everyone! 新年快樂

Josh 


Hualien Martyrs Shrine (花蓮忠烈祠)

Here we go again. 

This is my fourth go at posting about Taiwan’s Martyrs Shrines this year. 

As I’ve already mentioned a few times over the past few months, when I was considering where I would focus as part of my yearly project for this blog, I came up with the idea to continue my work with regard to places of interest from the Japanese Colonial Era. 

Albeit with a bit of a caveat. 

I decided that I’d make a concerted effort to visit some of the various “Martyrs Shrines” around Taiwan, which were originally home to a Shinto Shrine.

It might be difficult to imagine, but Taiwan was once home to well-over two hundred Shinto Shrines. 

However, as the Japanese colonial regime was replaced by the “Republic of China”, the majority of the them ended up being destroyed, with only a select few of the larger ones retaining a semblance of their former selves. 

In my post about the National Revolutionary Martyrs Shrine (台北忠烈祠) in Taipei, I listed fifteen of these former Shinto Shrines scattered throughout Taiwan (and on Penghu) that continue to exist in some form today.

Some of which I’ve already posted about: 

  1. National Revolutionary Martyrs Shrine (國民革命忠烈祠)

  2. New Taipei City Martyrs Shrine (新北市忠烈祠)

  3. Taoyuan Martyrs Shrine (桃園忠烈祠)

  4. Tungxiao Martyrs Shrine (通宵忠烈祠)

  5. Taichung Martyrs Shrine (台中忠烈祠)

  6. Changhua Martyrs Shrine (彰化忠烈祠)

  7. Yilan Martyrs Shrine (宜蘭忠烈祠)

  8. Taitung Martyrs Shrine (台東縣忠烈祠)

That’s eight, so if your math is good, you’ll probably realize that I still have seven to go! 

Even though 2020 has been a pretty terrible year with regard to travel, here in Taiwan we’ve been lucky that the government was proactive and on the ball, saving us from a massive outbreak of COVID-19.

But instead of taking trips overseas, many Taiwanese (and myself included) instead traveled around Taiwan to enjoy all that this beautiful country has to offer. 

I took a several-week trip to the South East Coast to visit some places that have been on my list for a long as well as saving some time to hang out and relax on a beach. Two of the places on my list to visit were two of the Martyrs Shrines that I haven’t been to yet, namely the Taitung shrine and the Hualien shrine. 

Suffice to say, one of the shrines ended up being extremely disappointing, while the other ended up being a really great experience. Today I’m going to introduce the latter of the two.  

The Hualien Martyrs Shrine isn’t what you’d consider a popular tourist attraction by any means, but it is one of the prettiest of all the Martyrs Shrines in Taiwan, and was once home to an even more beautiful Shinto Shrine.

Let me start by introducing that shrine!

Hualien Shinto Shrine (花蓮港神社)

The “Hualien Shinto Shrine”, otherwise known as Karenko Shrine (花蓮港神社) or “Karenko jinja” was a Prefectural Level (縣社) shrine that existed on this site from 1915 until 1981, when it was demolished to make way for the current Chinese-style Martyrs Shrine. 

The shrine was officially opened to the public on August 19th, 1915 (大正4年) and before becoming the central shrine in the prefecture, it was known simply as the “Hualien Harbour Shrine,” and just so happened to be one of the most architecturally significant shrines in Taiwan. 

When I say architecturally significant, its not because the shrine was constructed in a way that differed from any of the other shrines around Taiwan or those back in Japan, but because at the time it opened, if you wanted to visit, you had to walk across a suspension bridge over the Meilun River (美崙溪). 

Link: 花蓮市區內神社舊址導覽 (ARCGIS)

This would have made the traditional “Visiting Path” that you find at Shinto Shrines one of the longest in Taiwan and also would have provided some spectacular views of the shrine as you approached.

You’d likewise also would have had even better views of the city when you looked back from atop the hill. 

Fortunately the shrine was so beautiful that there are a multitude of historic photos from various sources around Taiwan that I’m able to share with you today. 

As always though, the former Shinto Shrine consisted of the following: 

  1. Two large Shrine Gates or “Torii” (鳥居)

  2. A walking path or “Sando” with a suspension bridge (參道)

  3. Stone Lanterns or “tōrō” (石燈籠) on either side of the walking path.

  4. Stone Guardian Lion-Dogs or “Komainu” (狛犬)

  5. An Administration Office or “Shamusho” (社務所)

  6. A Purification Fountain or “Chozuya” (手水舍)

  7. A Hall of Worship or “Haiden” (拜殿)

  8. A Main Hall or “Honden” (本殿).

As the largest shrine in Hualien, the shrine was officially designated a Ken-sha (縣社) or “Prefectural Level” shrine a few short years after it opened on March 2nd, 1921 (大正10年). 

As a Prefectural Level shrine, the ‘kami’ (deities) enshrined within were quite important, but as was the case with almost every other large shrine of its kind in Taiwan, the deities were actually all familiar figures, which included the Three Deities of Cultivation (開拓三神) and Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (北白川宮能久親王.) 

The ‘Three Deities of Cultivation’ (かいたくさんじん / 開拓三神), consist of three figures known for their skills with regard to nation-building, farming, business and medicine. 

The three “Kaitaku Sannin” are as follows: 

  1. Ōkunitama no Mikoto (大國魂大神 / おおくにたまのかみ)

  2. Ōkuninushi no Mikoto (大名牟遲大神 / おおなむちのかみ)

  3. Sukunabikona no Mikoto (少彥名大神 / すくなひこなのかみ)

The first mention of these deities was in the ‘Birth of the Gods’ (神生み) section of Japan’s all-important ‘Kojiki’ (古事記), or “Records of Ancient Matters”, a thirteen-century old chronicle of myths, legends and early accounts of Japanese history, which were later appropriated into Shintoism. 

While these deities are also quite common among Japan’s Shinto Shrines, they were especially important in Taiwan due to what they represented, which included aspects of nation-building, agriculture, medicine and the weather.

Given Taiwan’s position as a new addition to the Japanese empire, ‘nation-building’ and the association of a Japanese-style way of life was something that was being pushed on the local people in more ways than one.

Likewise, since the economy in Taiwan at the time was primarily agricultural-based, it was important that the gods enshrined reflected that aspect of life. 

Coincidentally, even though the colonial era ended almost eight decades ago, this is something that remains somewhat of a constant as you’ll find that one of the most important deities in Taiwan is the Chinese folk religion “Earth God” (土地公/福德正神), who has a court that performs similar roles as the three mentioned above. 

Interestingly, even though the origins of the Three Deities of Cultivation dates back well-over a thousand years, the other ‘kami’ enshrined here was a much younger one. In fact, most of the larger Shinto Shrines constructed in Taiwan during the colonial era were home to shrines dedicated to this specific deity who was known in life as “Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa.” 

Prince Yoshihisa, a major-general in the Japanese imperial army, was commissioned to participate in the invasion of Taiwan. Unfortunately for the Prince, he contracted malaria and died just outside of Taiwan making him the first member of the Japanese royal family to pass away while outside of Japan in more than nine hundred years.  

Shortly after his death he was elevated to the status of a kami under state Shinto and was given the name “Kitashirakawa no Miya Yoshihisa-shinno no Mikoto“, becoming one of the most prevalent deities here in Taiwan as well as being enshrined at the Yasukuni Shrine (靖國神社) in Tokyo. 

Link: Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (Wiki) 

As I mentioned above, when Taiwan’s Japanese Colonial Era came to an end in 1945, most of Taiwan’s smaller Shinto Shrines were torn down by the incoming regime, while the larger prefectural shrines were (for the most part) converted into Martyrs Shrines. 

The Hualien Shinto Shrine was surprisingly one of the few major Japanese-era shrines in the country to actually retain much of its original design for decades after the Chinese Nationalists took control of Taiwan. 

In 1950 though it was converted into the Hualien Martyrs Shrine (花蓮縣忠烈祠), with only minor changes taking place to the buildings on-site. 

In 1970 (民國59年), the suspension bridge, aptly named “The Shrine Bridge” (宮の橋) was destroyed by a typhoon and as Hualien had grown exponentially, the local authorities decided it was time to replace the pedestrian bridge with a much larger cement one which would allow more than just foot traffic to cross the river. 

Then, in 1972 (民國61年), the government of Japan signed a Joint Communiqué with the People’s Republic of China, starting formal diplomatic relations between the two countries.

One of the prerequisites for the agreement was that the Japanese government follow suit with America and the United Nations and drop relations with the Taipei-based government of the Republic of China.

The Japanese government’s decision to drop formal relations with Taiwan at that time was considered a major slap in the face to the people of Taiwan, which had up until then very favorable relations with their former colonial rulers.

Not only did this create quite a bit of anti-Japanese sentiment around Taiwan, but it also spurned the government into action with a retaliatory policy of tearing down anything related to Japanese culture or whatever remained from the Japanese colonial era.

Link: Japan-Taiwan Relations (Wiki) 

One of the victims of that anti-Japanese sentiment turned out to be this shrine, which was demolished and converted into a grand Northern-Chinese Palace style shrine, reopening to the public in 1981. 

Even though the Hualien Shinto Shrine outlasted many of its contemporaries in Taiwan, it still ultimately suffered the same fate and when it was demolished, not much was left of the original shrine. 

Today, one of the only pieces of the shrine that remains is the traditional “Shinme” (神馬/しんめ) or “Sacred Horse”, which is still standing near the shrine.

The “Kikumon” (菊紋) or the “Chrysanthemum Seal” of the Japanese Royal Family which typically adorns the belly of the horse however has been painted over with the star of the Republic of China.

Hualien Martyrs Shrine (花蓮忠烈祠)

As mentioned above, the Hualien Martyrs Shrine that exists today only dates back to 1981 (民國70年), making it a relatively young one by Taiwanese temple standards.

Having been around for the last four decades, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the shrine is even newer as it appears to be in pristine condition, thanks to the constant attention it receives from the local government. 

The shrine was constructed in the Northern-Chinese Palace Style (中國宮殿式建築), making its architectural style similar to many of the other Martyrs Shrines in Taiwan in that its design closely mimics that of the Forbidden Palace in the Chinese capital of Beijing.

Even though the shrine is open daily, it’s not likely that the actual shrine rooms will be open to the public as they are generally only open on special occasions. 

This shouldn’t be a huge surprise though - Martyrs Shrines aren’t really the typical kind of Taiwanese temple where people show up at regular intervals to show their respect and make a wish. They tend to be much more ceremonial in nature and are mostly used for propaganda purposes. 

So if you show up hoping to see inside the shrine room, you’re probably going to be disappointed. 

Nevertheless, in addition to honouring the war dead of the Republic of China’s Armed Forces, this shrine is also home to Spirit Tablets (牌位) for Koxinga (鄭成功) as well as Liu Yongfu (劉永福) and Qiu Fengjia (邱逢甲).

Liu was the commander of the celebrated Black Flag Army (黑旗軍), who later in life became the President of the short-lived Republic of Formosa (臺灣民主國). Qiu on the other hand was a Hakka poet, a renowned patriot, and the namesake for Taichung’s prestigious Fengjia University (逢甲大學). 

Despite the obvious disparity between the current Chinese-style design and the former Japanese-style design of the buildings, the landscape still maintains much of its original design, so as I introduce each of the different parts of the current shrine, I’ll do so in a way that looks at the shrine through the lens of the former Shinto Shrine to contrast and compare the older and current versions of the shrine. 

The Visiting Path (參道)

The Visiting Path, once one of the defining features of the Shinto Shrine has undergone significant changes since the shrine was converted into a Martyrs Shrine. 

First, it goes without saying (as I already mentioned above) that the original pedestrian bridge over the Meilun River has been replaced with a much larger bridge.

Today the path to the shrine is simply a set of cement stairs that bring you up to the main gate.

The left and right side of the stairs used to be adorned with cascading platforms of stone lanterns, but today they have all been removed, which has allowed for the staircase to be significantly widened.  

The Shrine Gate (鳥居) 

Upon reaching the top of the stairs, you’re be met with a beautiful red and white multi-tiered Chinese-style Pailou Gate (牌樓), which has a plaque in the middle that reads “Martyrs Shrine” (忠烈祠) in golden Chinese characters. 

This gate is a relatively newer addition to the shrine as the original gate that was constructed in 1981 was destroyed thanks to a magnitude seven earthquake, which I’ll talk about more later.

However, even though the current shrine gate is quite new, it is still beautifully designed and is probably one of the first things you’ll notice about the shrine as you approach from ground level. 

The Hall of Worship (拜殿)

The area where the Shinto Shrine’s Hall of Worship, or “Haiden” (拜殿) once existed has been replaced by another kind of ‘gate’, which you have to pass through to reach the main area of the shrine. 

This “gate”, which is officially known as the “Hall of Righteousness” (正氣殿) is elevated another level above where the Shrine Gate stands, so you’ll have to walk up another set of stairs to reach it. 

Before walking up the stairs though, you’ll likely notice the characters “英烈千秋” split into two on either side of its stairs. The phrase is loosely translated as “Eternal Heroes”, which is obviously a nod to the Martyrs enshrined within.

As you walk through the gate you’ll notice on one side that there is a door to an Administrative Office, which looks like it hasn’t been opened in a while. When you walk through the gate, you’re met with some more beautiful red pillars that lead to another set of stairs bringing you to the final level where the Main Halls are located. 

Interestingly, when the Shinto Shrine was first converted into the Martyrs Shrine, the “Haiden” was renamed “Hall of Righteousness” and retained its original design up until being torn down in the 1980s.

Today, the Chinese-style version retains the same name, which is a reflection of the history of this shrine. 

The Main Hall (本殿)

As is tradition with larger Shinto Shrines, the Main Hall, “Honden” area would have been off-limits to the general public. Today though the area where the hall once stood has been significantly altered to allow for three large Chinese-style buildings.

  1. The Main Hall or the “Martyrs Shrine” (主殿)

  2. The Left Hall or “The Hall of Benevolent Admiration” (仰仁殿)

  3. The Right Hall or “The Hall of Sublime Virtue” (崇德殿)

While the Main Hall is the area where you’d go to worship the Martyrs of the Republic of China’s Armed Forces who were killed in the line of duty, I’m assuming that the other two halls (which have different names) follow tradition and are Civilian Wings (文武忠烈祠), venerating the figures mentioned above as well as local heroes who died doing something “righteous.” 

If that is the case, the Literary Martyrs Shrine (文忠士祠) would be dedicated to the intellectuals who contributed to the ‘revolution’ that helped the Chinese Nationalists topple the Qing Dynasty, and is likely home to the Spirit Tablet for Liu Fengjia. 

Meanwhile the Martial Martyrs Shrine (武忠士次) would be dedicated to those martyrs who died during the early stages of the revolution and would include Koxinga and Liu Yongfu.

Unfortunately this is all just speculation as there is very little information about the shrine available, even in Chinese - and because you can’t actually even enter the shrine room to see.

Interestingly, while I was working on the photos for this post, I noticed something odd about the shrine.

It seemed no matter what I did, some of the photos weren’t straight. I was lining up the horizon with all the straight lines in photoshop and kept failing until I realized that none of it was my fault.

The shrine was actually sinking and tilted heavily to the right. 

I did some checking and discovered that in 2005, Typhoon Longwang (龍王颱風) caused significant damage to the shrine with a subsequent magnitude seven earthquake adding to the woes of the already weak foundation. 

Link: 花蓮忠烈祠修繕完工 即將開放參觀 (中時新聞網)

Still, even though the shrine is a bit slanted, it is a really nice place to visit and the colours of this palace-style shrine are really great for photos.

Getting There

 

Address: #82 Fuxing New Village, Hualien City (花蓮縣花蓮市970復興新村82)

The Hualien Martyrs Shrine is located near the busy downtown area of Hualien and is easily walkable from wherever you are coming from.

That being said, Hualien is a pretty big space, so some people might not really be in a hurry to go on a walking tour of the city.

Unfortunately, the English address I’ve translated above isn’t really going to offer you much help getting to the shrine. If you copy the Chinese though, you should have no problem.

The reason for this is because the address for the shrine is a little strange and it probably gives Google Maps a bit of a headache. 

The shrine is essentially located at the end of Linsen Road (林森路), where you’ll have to cross a bridge to get to the Meilunshan Park (美崙山公園). 

Unfortunately, when it comes to public transportation, you’re somewhat out of luck. 

There are city buses in Hualien, but none of them really bring you all that close to the shrine, and the route that travels the closest has recently terminated its service, so if you don’t have a car or scooter for your trip, you’re probably going to have to walk or take a cab to get to the shrine.

I could list a number of buses that get you within a ten to twenty minute walk from the shrine, but if you’re already in the downtown area, its probably better to just walk.

Of all the Martyrs Shrines I’ve visited thus far, the Hualien shrine is probably one of the prettiest. It probably goes without saying though that this is also thanks to the Shinto Shrine which once stood in its place.

From the outset, I didn’t expect that the final version of this article would turn out to be the most detailed resource available (in any language) about the shrine, but it was certainly frustrating to write as there is very little information available.

Nevertheless, it goes without saying that there are countless things to see and do while visiting Hualien, so even though this shrine isn’t probably very high on most people’s list of places to visit, I’d still recommend stopping by to check it out if you’re in the area.

It won’t take you too much time and if the weather is nice, the shrine absolutely shines.


Taiwan Railway Museum (臺灣總督府鐵道部)

I’m a big fan of museums - and I think you should be too. 

Whenever I travel to a new country, I always make sure to reserve a bit of my time to check out a museum (or three), especially if it relates to the history of the place I’m visiting. 

That being said, you might have noticed that I don’t post much on here about museums. 

Why? Well, even though there are often some really cool displays, I don’t really see much value in taking photos in museums, at least for the purpose of this blog. This is also why you haven’t seen me write anything about (and probably never will) Taipei’s famed National Palace Museum.

Admittedly, I’ve likewise never really been all that impressed with Taiwan’s museums.

Most of the time I feel like museums here are a bit of a missed opportunity - It’s almost as if museum staff have some great ideas, but when they request funding, they only end up being allocated about a tenth of what they were asking for and then have to make due - which is sad to say, half-assed.

So, when I heard that the former Taihoku Railway Bureau was being reopened as the “Taiwan Railway Museum,” I wasn’t feeling all that optimistic.

But even if what was prepared for display in the museum wasn’t that impressive, I was still highly anticipating a visit as I’d finally get the chance to enter the beautiful Japanese-era building that I’ve passed by several times a week for well over a decade.

Fortunately for me, while the museum was still going through its soft-opening, I was invited to come check it out and get some photos. I don’t know how I get so lucky sometimes, but just like the Taipei Railway Workshop, I was honoured to be part of the first group of people who got to visit. 

And I’m pleased to say, my initial pessimism about the museum was way off. 

I might even go as far to say that this museum is probably one of the best in Taiwan. 

Not only are all of the displays well-researched, well-designed and offer multi-lingual explanations, they’re set up in a way that nothing is out of place.

The whole thing is a well-rounded and obviously a well-thought up exhibition about the nations railway history, which if you weren’t already aware was instrumental in developing Taiwan into the beautiful country that we enjoy today.

Oh, and if you’ve got a camera, the museum is housed within one of the capital’s most iconic buildings, and is great for photography!

The Taihoku Railway Bureau (鐵道部) 

Before we talk about the museum, it’s important to talk about the iconic building that houses it.

The “Railway Department of the Governor General of Taiwan” (台灣總督府交通局鐵道部), a National Historic Site, which is better known as the “Taihoku Railway Bureau” (鐵道部), was an administration centre for the management and operation of Taiwan’s railways during the Japanese Colonial Era and for several decades after.

Located a short distance from Taipei Station and the North Gate (北門), the Railway Bureau dates back well over a century and the buildings within the complex occupy a piece of land that has considerable historic significance. 

It probably goes without saying that the Taipei of a century ago was considerably different than what we’re used to today - The narrow stretch of land between the Keelung River and where Taipei Station is located today has been an important location for the development of Taiwan’s railroad since the late 1800s.

The first iteration of the ‘Taipei Station’ opened in 1891 in ‘Twatutia’ (大稻埕), which we refer to as Dadaocheng today, when the rudimentary railway between Keelung and Taipei opened for service.

Prior to the Japanese takeover of Taiwan, the Qing constructed a rudimentary railway factory just west of where the Railway Bureau stands today, which was used to do maintenance on the track constructed between the port of Keelung and Taipei in addition to taking care of the trains.

When the Japanese took control of Taiwan a few short years later, the site was utilized by the army for a short time as a munitions depot before it was handed over to the railway department. 

When the Japanese arrived in Taiwan, not much time was wasted on getting to work on the development of an island-wide network of railways. So when construction was nearing completion on the northern Taipei-Tamsui line, the workshop had to be expanded and modernized.

So, in 1909, the factory was relocated to a new building nearby and renamed the “Taipei Railway Factory.” 

The original buildings at the Qing factory were later torn down and the land was converted into a community of dormitories for civil servants - some of which still exist today! 

As progress on the construction of a a network of railways around the island continued, it also became necessary for the colonial government to relocate the administrative section of the railway bureau to a new headquarters in order to manage the day-to-day operations of the railway as well as ensuring that construction on the various rail lines went smoothly.

Given the importance of the railway for Japan’s ambitions for Taiwan, the office that was constructed for the Railway Bureau would have to be something grand.

Thus, the responsibility for its design was given to Moriyama Matsunosuke (森山松之助), the architectural genius who was responsible for many of Taiwan’s most famous buildings, including the the Taipei Prefectural Office (台北州廳), Taichung Prefectural Office (台中州廳), Tainan Prefectural Office (台南州廳), the Monopoly Bureau (專賣局) and the Government-General of Taiwan (台灣總督府), which is currently known as the Presidential Office Building (總統府). 

Link: The helmsmen who shaped the style of Taipei City (Taipei Times) 

Coincidentally, the Taiwan Railway Bureau and the Government-General of Taiwan building just so happened to be inaugurated on the same day (March 31st, 1919) and afterwards Moriyama commented: “My work here is done!” (台灣已經沒有什麼可做的了) and he left Taiwan a year later with a long list of accomplishments.

I thought it was a bit strange that both the Railway Bureau and the Government-General of Taiwan building (currently Presidential Building) opened on the same day, so I decided to do some research on the subject.

The Japanese never really do anything at random, so there had to be a reason - whether it was a holiday or an anniversary - that they inaugurated both of these important buildings on the same day. 

Unfortunately after several hours of digging, the only thing I could find that related to “March 31st” was the end of the so-called military government (軍政) and the start of civil governance almost two decades prior. The thing is that the final day was “3/31” and the first day was “4/1”, which probably meant that I hadn’t found the right answer. 

So, I enlisted the help of a local history guru who I’m happy to call a friend who did some searching for me.

After a few hours he got back to me and said he was having difficultly, so he left a message with one of the research heads at the National Taiwan Museum who got back to him and answered: It’s because March 31st marked the traditional end of the fiscal year in Japan.

This is what I get for overthinking things. 

When the Railway Bureau opened for operations in 1919, construction on the building was only completed the north wing and the front facade of the building when they started to move in.

It would take another year until the south wing was completed and over the next few decades, several additional buildings constructed on the site, which eventually totalled around forty.

You might be wondering how this was possible given the lack of space on the site.

It was all thanks to the relocation of the Taipei Railway Workshop (which is also now a protected property) to a new location, freeing up quite a bit of space. The railway workshop at one time featured prominently on the site of the Railway Bureau, but as the decades passed and the railway network continued to expand, it became apparent that the workshop was far too small to perform all of the duties required to maintain the trains.

So, a much larger one had to be constructed and was officially opened in 1935 on the fortieth anniversary of Japanese Colonial Rule in Taiwan, which also coincided with the opening of the Taiwan Exposition, which was a huge year in Taiwan in terms of events.

Unfortunately, in the midst of all the development that was taking place here in Taiwan, the Japanese Empire found itself involved in a little something called the Second World War as one of the major instigators.

And we all know how that went for them.

When the Japanese surrendered to the allies at the conclusion of the war, they were forced to relinquish control over the territories that they had conquered, including Taiwan. This left the question as to what would happen to the island and who would control it. 

Ambiguously, the allies decided that control of Taiwan would be offered up to yet another foreign power, the Republic of China, which itself was in the midst of a bitter civil war against the communists. 

In 1945, when the Chinese Nationalists formally took control of Taiwan, the Railway Bureau became the new headquarters for the Taiwan Railways Administration (臺灣鐵路管理局), which quickly got to work repairing the parts of the track that were destroyed during the war. This helped to ensure that the government could maintain control of the island as well as taking advantage of the economy that the Japanese developed. 

The Taipei Railway Bureau continued to serve as the headquarters of the Taiwan Railways Administration from the late 1940s until 1990, when it moved to its new home within the upper floors of the newly constructed Taipei Railway Station.

In the 90s, the Taiwanese government wasn’t as keen on historical preservation as it is these days, so when the TRA moved out, it was left abandoned for quite some time.

Soon after the move, the interior became a setting in renowned Taiwanese director Edward Yang’s (楊德昌) film, “A Brighter Summer Day” (牯嶺街少年殺人事件).

After that though, not much happened at the Railway Bureau until construction on the Beimen MRT Station project started and a large portion of the forty buildings on site started disappearing. 

As a result, in 2009, the Railway Bureau was certified as a National Historical Monument (國定古蹟) by the Ministry of Culture (文化部) and plans were made to restore the remaining ten buildings into a public space.

The restoration project on the buildings started in 2014 and would take several years to complete with the Taiwan Railway Museum officially opening to the public to much fanfare in 2020, during the height of the global COVID-19 pandemic.   

Timeline of Important Dates for the Railway Bureau

  • 1887 - Plans for the first railroad in Taiwan are started by governor Liu Mingchuan (劉銘傳). 

  • 1891 - Construction on the railway between Keelung and Taipei is completed. 

  • 1893 - Construction on the railway between Taipei and Hsinchu is completed. 

  • 1895 - The Japanese take control of Taiwan. 

  • 1901 - The Railway Bureau, a sub-department of the Governor Generals office is formed.

  • 1901 - The first branch line (Taipei - Tamsui) of the railroad is completed. 

  • 1908 - A proposal is made to relocate the original workshop and the railway bureau to a new site nearby. 

  • 1909 - The Taipei Railway Workshop is relocated east of its original location. 

  • 1918 - Construction on the new headquarters for the Railway Bureau starts. 

  • 1919.3.31 - Phase one of construction is completed on the facade and north wing. 

  • 1919.5.28 - Railway Bureau employees start to move into the offices. 

  • 1920 - The south wing of the building is completed. 

  • 1933 - Construction of the cafeteria attachment to the Administration building is completed. 

  • 1934 - The Engineering Buildings are added to the site.

  • 1935 - The Taipei Railway Workshop (台北機廠) is relocated to its current location.

  • 1940-1945 - The railways are repeatedly bombed by the Allies.

  • 1945 - Taiwan is ceded to the Republic of China (中華民國).

  • 1948 - The Taiwan Railways Administration (台灣鐵路管理局) is established with the Railway Bureau as its headquarters. 

  • 1979 - The West Coast Rail is fully electrified. 

  • 1989 - Rail lines in Taipei are moved underground in preparation for the new Taipei Railway Station. 

  • 1990 - The new Taipei Train Station opens and the Railway Bureau building is left abandoned.

  • 2000 - The Yilan line is fully electrified. 

  • 2006 - Construction on the Beimen MRT station takes place and several buildings are demolished and the former Taipei Workshop building was temporarily relocated. 

  • 2009 - The site of the Railway Bureau becomes a protected property with plans to restore it.

  • 2014 - The restoration project on the site commences with ten of the original forty buildings being restored after the rest were demolished during the construction of the MRT. 

  • 2020 - The Railway Bureau opens to the public as the Taiwan Railway Museum. 

Now that we have a lot of that history stuff out of the way, let’s talk a bit about each of the individual buildings that still exist today as part of the National Taiwan Museum Taipei Railway Bureau.

Administration Headquarters (廳舍)

While there are several historic buildings on site, let’s face it, the Administration Building (廳舍) is always going to be the one that attracts the most attention.

Not only is it the largest and most important building with regard to the history of the Railway Bureau, it was masterfully designed and is one of those iconic Taipei buildings that people have enjoyed for generations. 

Now that it has reopened to the public as a National Museum, it has attracted quite a bit of attention as people are finally able to enjoy the interior as much as they’ve enjoyed the exterior. 

The arc-shaped Administration building sits directly across from Taipei’s North Gate on the corner of Chung-Hsiao West Road (忠孝西路) and Yanping North Road (延平北路) with the front door facing another one of Taipei’s historic buildings, the Beimen Post Office (北門郵局). 

As mentioned above, the building was designed by famed architect Moriyama Matsunosuke (森山松之助), and construction was completed in two phases with the first phase completed on March 31st, 1919 and the second phase a year later. 

The two storey building consists of a beautiful front hall with a north and south wing running parallel to each other on either side.

Taking inspiration from English baroque, better known as Queen Anne style architecture (安妮女王復興樣式), the building is strongly characterized by its bilateral symmetry.

The lower half of the building was constructed using red bricks as a foundation, while the upper half was constructed with Alishan Cypress (阿里山檜木) in a style known as “half-timber framing” (半木構造), inspired by European architectural design, but with Japanese characteristics, of course.

Something you’ll want to take note of before entering the building is how the building curves from the front hall that faces the road.

The two towers that connect the north and south wings to the front hall were constructed at an angle, a classic baroque architectural trick that allows the building to take its arc shape.

Where the Japanese architects of that time excelled (with regard to baroque-style architecture) is easily noticeable with the of the roof, which is also a mixture of Western and Japanese-design characteristics.

In baroque design, a sense of ‘flowing movement’ is important and when it comes to this roof, it is expertly arched over both the south and north wings which meets with the front hall, which has its own arched roof facing the road, giving off somewhat of a 3D motion effect. Some might argue that the design here is ostentatious, but that was the point of baroque.

Adding to the design on the exterior, the roof is also home to ox-tail windows on both the front and back side of the building. While these windows perform their role of allowing natural light into the building quite well, the key thing to note here that the shape of windows on the front and back are shaped differently, with those on the backside being much more impressive.

That being said, credit needs to be given to the architect and the construction teams as construction of ox-tail windows like these is quite difficult, so even though they might just seem like windows protruding from the roof, you should take some time to check them out. 

The main office on the second floor of the Main Hall features a beautiful veranda, while both of the wings have long two-meter wide passageways at the front and back of the the first and second floors, where people could get of the office for some fresh air.

However, as the ground level of the building was constructed with brick and the top level with cypress, there are some practical differences between the two. The veranda on the ground level features beautiful brick arches which help to support the floor above while the second level has pillars which in turn assist in supporting the weight of the roof.

As you enter the foyer of the building you are met with a large open greeting space and a beautiful set of stairs that reaches around on the left and right side, a classic European-style design that is almost unheard of in Taiwan today.

There are halls both to the left and the right of the stairs that take you to where the various offices of the railway bureau once existed. 

When you reach the end of either of the hallways, you’ll find another large open stairwell on either end that bring you up to the second floor. The stairwell is spacious and there are large windows on both sides that allow for beautiful natural light to come in.

As you make your way to the second floor, you’re going to notice a noticeable difference in the design from the first floor.

The second floor was home to offices like the floor below, but the size of some of them is considerably larger. Likewise, there is much more attention to detail in the design as the ceilings and walls are decorated with plaster sculptures, which have been beautifully restored.

If you look closely at the designs on the sculptures, you’ll clearly notice Taiwan-related imagery inside.

The room you’ll want to pay most attention to however is the main office directly in the middle of the building, opposite the grand staircase.

This room is probably one of the single most beautiful spaces I’ve seen in Taiwan and the intricate ceiling and porcelain decorations are an amazing look into the past and the commitment to attention to detail that is a hallmark of Japanese design.

Amazingly, the total cost of construction for the Administration Building cost a mere 377,000 yen, which is about $3,500 USD!

Sounds like a steal, right?

Actually no, we have to consider several factors, including inflation and the decimation of the Japanese currency after the Second World War to figure out the real cost in todays dollars. 

Don’t worry, I’ve gone ahead and figured that out for you. 

The real cost to construct the building in today’s dollars would have been about $1,626,232 USD.

Still, not too bad all things considering. 

The Octagon (八角樓)

So there’s this beautiful concrete building on site, to the rear of the main building called “The Octagon” and that sounds pretty cool, right?

Kind of like the Pentagon in America. 

Well, actually, it’s just an ostentatiously-designed male washroom.  

But even though it’s just a washroom, you can be sure that almost every person who visits the Railway Museum is going to go check it out.

Why? Well, it was opened simultaneously with the main building, which means that it also dates back to 1919, making it one of the first washrooms in Taiwan with modern plumbing. 

Due to the fact that the staff at the Railway Bureau were predominately male, the washroom caters to their needs with an octagonal-shaped column of urinals in the centre of the building.

There are also four stalls set up with toilets and to the right and left of the front entrance with each of the other six sides of the octagon open to the elements for venting.

The building was constructed with reinforced concrete, has stone slabs for the roof and features modern style plumbing and septic tanks behind each toilet for cleanliness.

Constructed in a classical style, the design of the building imitates the stone masonry techniques of Europe and even though its just a staff washroom, it’s obvious that a lot of thought was put into making the experience of relieving yourself a grand occasion.

Today the urinals and toilets have been removed from the building and it has been cleaned up, with the walls given a fresh coat of paint.

You don’t have to worry about the stink of a men’s washroom when you walk into the building but you’ll definitely be able to appreciate the architectural design of the building. 

Canteen (食堂) 

The Canteen, or the Cafeteria building is connected directly to the Administration Hall and as you might very well have noticed from the photos here, is very much different than the rest of the building.

Constructed in 1932 as an addition to the main building, the cafeteria is a two-storey western-style building constructed of cypress and metal bracketing.

The strange thing is that while we know that architect Moriyama Matsunosuke (森山松之助) designed the Administration Building, no one really cared to take credit for the construction of the cafeteria.

Likewise, the materials used for the construction of the building were interestingly collected from scraps of wood used for other buildings around the capital.

An early attempt at recycling?

In actuality, this was very likely due to the fact that the colonial government was over-reaching with so many construction projects around Taiwan and was strapped for cash. 

Despite all of that, the interior of the building is beautiful and, like most buildings constructed with Taiwanese cypress, it shines in the sunlight.

Currently the ground level floor is used by the museum as a gift shop while the second floor is home to an exhibition space. 

Wartime Command Center (防空洞)

The Wartime Command Center is an underground bunker that was constructed during the latter stages of the war in 1943.

The Japanese constructed bunkers like these all over Taiwan in order to offer air-raid protection for civil-servants and the military. Considering the strategic importance of the railway with regard to Japan’s ambitions in Taiwan, having a bunker on-site only made sense. 

Constructed with reinforced concrete, there are two different sections to the bunker - the upper section is about seven meters above the ground and constructed in a cone shape.

The lower underground section is large enough to fit dozens of people and the interior has a large railway map of Taiwan on the wall which features the various rail lines, stations and bridges constructed by that time. 

Unfortunately the lower section of the bunker is still in the process of being restored, so its not open to the public as of yet.

I’ll update in the future when it becomes available and I can get in to get some photos. 

Electricity Building (電源室)

The Electricity Building, located to the rear of the Administration Building was originally constructed in 1925, but has been reconstructed and expanded on several occasions over the years. 

The building is a single-story brick structure with an arched wooden truss roof that was especially equipped to allow for the ventilation of heat to ensure safety.

When the building was later expanded, designers were forced to curve the new section due to a lack of space - The interesting thing about this is that the curve of the building somewhat mimics the shape of the Administration Building, which wasn’t entirely intentional, but cool nevertheless. 

The electricity generated in the building was used to assist in power generation and storage for the usage of the construction buildings nearby, which required more electricity than the grid at the time was able to provide. 

Today the building has been cleaned up, all of the equipment removed and is now a pretty cool place to sit down and enjoy one of the Taiwan Railway’s iconic Railway Lunchboxes (鐵路便當) in a cafeteria-like setting. 

Construction Buildings (工務室)

The two “construction” buildings were constructed to the rear of the Administration Building’s southern wing and are located directly next to Yanping North Road. 

Constructed in 1934 in the Japanese style, both of the buildings are about 44 meters in length with windows covering almost 80% of the walls, stressing an importance for natural interior light.

Constructed almost entirely of wood, the buildings were brilliantly elevated off of the ground with an ‘anti-termite foundation’ that helped to protect and preserve the buildings.

There is currently an interesting display in one of the buildings about how the Japanese had to quickly adapt to the problem of termites upon arrival in Taiwan and how the buildings on-site are a product of lessons learned.

The buildings were constructed just as the Taipei Railway Workshop was making its move to an off-site location (between Taipei and Songshan) and were used by the engineers employed at the Railway Bureau to coordinate the various construction projects that would take place around the island, as well as ensuring that operations at the nearby Taipei Railway Workshop went smoothly. 

Today the engineering buildings are used as exhibition spaces with one focusing on the restoration of the railway bureau while the other is a space where children can go to learn more about the railway in an interactive and fun way. 

There is also another set of green buildings that have yet to be fully restored, so in the future it’s likely that they’ll be open to the public in some capacity.

Railway Museum (鐵道部園區)

A replication of the interior of the historic Beimen Station (北門車站)

The Railway Bureau is currently open to the public and is under the ownership and control of the National Taiwan Museum (國立臺灣博物館), which has various exhibition spaces around Taipei. 

The interior of the building features exhibitions and displays historic objects and memorabilia related to the history of the railway in Taiwan.

The museum is pretty much a paradise for anyone who enjoys learning about Taiwan’s modern development - or those who just love trains. 

The former offices within the building are now home to exhibition spaces, which will continue to grow as the restoration process on some of the other buildings on the site is on-going. 

Historic train seats on the rear balcony of the building basking in the afternoon sun.

So, even though I was able to visit the museum during its soft-opening, it most certainly won’t be my last. 

Link: Railway Department Park (National Taiwan Museum)  

Currently the museum features a number of exhibits covering a wide variety of subjects and even though the majority of exhibition space covers the history of the railroad in Taiwan, there are also some other interesting exhibits deserving of your attention.

When you visit the museum, you’ll be treated with some of the following exhibits (in no specific order):

  • The history of the railway from 1887 - 2020.

  • A model of the historic Beimen Station.

  • A mockup of the inner office space and tools of a train station

  • Interactive maps of the development of the railway network.

  • Displays of the various types of trains used throughout history.

  • Displays of discontinued trains and the presidents former train.

  • Spaces for children to learn about the railway in a fun way.

  • The history of the Railway Bureau building.

  • Exhibitions about the Restoration of the Railway Bureau

  • A giant and extremely detailed model railroad of Taipei.

  • Exhibition about the 1935 Taiwan Exposition.

  • Exhibition about the Taiwan Railway Hotel.

Modern exhibit in a century-old building.

This obviously is an incomplete list as some of the exhibitions are permanent while others will constantly be changing in order to keep things fresh. My first visit during the soft-opening and my second visit several months later were quite different experiences with some of the exhibits becoming more refined while others had already been completely removed and replaced.

The great thing about this space is that there are a long list of possibilities when it comes to new and interesting exhibitions about Taiwan’s railway network and thus far they’ve only scratched the surface, which is what makes this museum an exciting one as it continues to grow into one of the most important places to learn about Taiwan’s modern history in Taipei.

One thing that most certainly won’t be replaced is the expertly detailed model railway of Taipei, which you should most definitely check out. The model train show takes place twice an hour and is one of the things that any visitor to the museum absolutely has to check out.

Hours

Tuesday - Sunday from 9:30 - 5:00.

  1. Closed on Mondays

  2. Closed during the Lunar New Year holidays 

  3. Closed on National Holidays

Admission 

  • Railway Bureau: NT$100 (Adult) | NT$50 (Children/Seniors)

  • Museum Pass: NT$130 (Adult) | NT$65 (Children/Seniors) 

Notes about Admission Prices

  1. The price of admission for children is limited to those aged 6-12.

  2. Children under the age of six are free.  

  3. During the week, anyone over the age of 65 is free. On the weekends, tickets are half price. 

  4. The Museum Pass is a discounted ticket that gives access to the National Taiwan Museum, the Natural History Branch, Nansen Branch and the Railway Bureau.

  5. The ticket booth closes thirty minutes before the museum closes.

  6. The price of admission can be paid with cash, credit card and EasyCard (悠遊卡)

Waiting for the model train to arrive

Something that is important to remember about the Railway Bureau Museum is that restoration projects are still underway and there are still a few areas that are yet to be completed and opened to the public.

Over the next year or two, the museum will continue to expand with the original Taipei Railway Workshop slated to reopen relatively soon.

As the newer buildings open, I’ll make sure to update this article with more information. 

Getting There

 

So, how is one to get to the Taiwan Railway Museum? 

This is probably one of the easiest ‘Getting There’ sections I’ve ever written. 

The museum is located in the North Gate (Beimen) area of Taipei and is a short walk from either the Taipei Railway Station, Taoyuan Airport Metro Station, Beimen MRT Station or the Taipei Underground Mall (台北地下街). 

  • From Taipei Main Station: Exit the station from the “West Three” door (西三門) and walk west along the park or Chung-Hsiao West Road to arrive at the museum. 

  • From Beimen MRT Station: Exit 1, 2 or 3 more or less surround the back end of the museum. 

  • From Taipei Underground Mall: Exit Y24 or Y26, each of which are a two minute walk away. 

  • From Taoyuan Airport MRT: Exit 6 or 7, both of which are directly across the street. 

Exhibits on display from the Railway Bureau

The Taiwan Railway Museum kind of blew me away - Sure, you could argue that I’m an unbiased critic as I’m somewhat predisposed to enjoying any historic building from the Japanese era, but there’s much more going on here than just the historic building.

The museum and the exhibits on display are pretty much candy for any Taiwanese history buff and the well-thought out displays are easily enjoyed by people of all ages. 

As I’ve already mentioned, I’ve never really been this impressed by a museum in Taiwan before, and no, I’m not being paid to say that.

I think all of this is likely is a reflection of the fact that the National Taiwan Museum did an extremely professional job restoring the building while also collecting all of the historic objects that have been put on display. 

If you have a chance to visit, I highly recommend spending some time at this museum.

A view of the modern city from the perspective of one of its oldest residents.

Likewise, as I mentioned above, in the coming months I’ll be updating this space with photos from some of the areas that have yet to be opened to the public and I’ll also be adding more articles about the Railway Bureau in Hualien, which has also become a pretty cool spot to hang out and learn about the history of the Railway in Taiwan!

Footnotes

  1. Railway Division of Taiwan Governor-General’s Bureau of Transportation (Ministry of Culture)

  2. Railway Department Park (National Taiwan Museum)

  3. Ministry launches Railway Bureau (Taipei Times)

  4. Railway Park in Taipei Opens to Public (Taipei Times)

  5. A Living Museum of Trains (Taiwan Panorama)

  6. 台博鐵道部園區6日開幕 重現百年古蹟建築 (CNA)

  7. 臺灣總督府交通局鐵道部 (Wiki)

  8. 鐵道部之空間變遷與建築特色 (國立臺灣博物館)

  9. 臺博館鐵道部園區新揭幕!歷經16年修復,走入百年古蹟群,動態模型、鐵道文史展一次看 (Shopping Design)

  10. 抵達軌道運輸第一站,回味「鐵道部園區」百年歷史 (遠見)