New Taipei City

Neidong Forest Park (內洞森林遊樂區)

The Neidong National Forest Recreation Park (內洞國家森林遊樂區) is somewhat of a hidden gem - overshadowed by its neighbour Wulai with its hot spring resorts, giant waterfall and "old street." 

The forest park is about a ten minute drive past the village of Wulai further into the mountains and the reason why its stayed 'somewhat' of a hidden gem is because without your own method of transportation in and out of the park, its not easy to reach as there are no public transportation options available. 

The forest park has a short and easy hike that would be ideal for those who aren't looking for an extreme challenge. The area is beautiful and you can easily enjoy an afternoon getting lost inside. 

The hike takes about half an hour (at my pace) from start to finish and the main attraction is clearly the waterfalls and for me, walking along the beautiful emerald Nanshi river (南勢溪) that supplies hot spring water to the village below. 

The Forest Recreation park is very popular with bug chasers and those interested in the ecological aspects of the local environment. Unfortunately during my visit I didn't come across any - I would have liked to have an expert point out some cool looking insects as I’ve heard that there are lots of butterflies, scarab beetles and wild monkeys living throughout the park. 

Wusha Creek Waterfall

As soon as you pass the gates to enter the park you almost automatically come up to the Wusha Creek Waterfall (烏紗溪瀑布) which is on the opposite side of the river - but there is an excellent view from an observation deck.

Its a nice waterfall, but as you had to pass the massive Wulai Waterfall to get to the park, its not that impressive in comparison. I noticed most people didn't spend a lot of time looking at it.  

Luohao Dam

Further along the path you come across the Luohao Dam (羅好水壩) which seems somewhat out of place in such a natural surrounding, but I’m guessing its purpose is to keep the village below from being constantly flooded. The dam itself ruins a bit of the “Forest Park” atmosphere, but in the right light you can get its reflection off of the beautiful emerald coloured water which make its nuisance a little easier to handle. 

The emerald green water of the Nanshi River

After passing the dam you need to walk about five more minutes until you come up to the main attraction which is a three-tiered waterfall commonly known in English as the “Neidong” waterfall but actually named the Xinxian Waterfall (信賢瀑布). The path to the waterfall is well developed and there is a viewing platform at each tier of the waterfall. 

Something strange that I noticed in the park was its accessibility for the disabled. You won't find many areas in Taiwan, especially ones in the mountains that are accessible for the disabled. They seemed to take great care to allow for those in wheelchairs to be able to have access to this park to enjoy the environment. 

For logistical purposes however if you're in a wheelchair you can only go as far as the bottom tier of the waterfall, the other two tiers aren't accessible as you have to climb a hill. Nevertheless I saw quite a few people in wheelchairs enjoying the bottom tier of the waterfall and in my opinion, that's great. 

The lowest tier of the Xinxian waterfall

The bottom tier and the top tier of the waterfall have wooden observatory platforms and they are extremely difficult to take long-exposure shots on as the platform constantly shakes.

I had my camera set up on a tripod attempting to take thirty-second exposures, but it was more or less impossible as there were a few families there with their children who were running around, stomping their feet and having a good time. 

The second tier of the Xinxian Waterfall

The second tier of the waterfall can only be viewed from a distance, but at least at this tier you are on the side of the mountain with stable ground. (No shaking) 

The Xinxian Waterfall may not be as big as some of the other waterfalls around northern Taiwan, but its setting is what makes it special. The three tiers are beautiful and the volcanic hot spring water that flows from it is amazing. 

The top tier of the Xinxian Waterfall

The Neidong National Forest Recreation Park is well worth a visit and if you are visiting the Wulai area, I highly recommend taking a short drive past the resort area and taking the hour or so long hike to see the waterfalls and enjoy the more natural aspects to the area. 

Its very easy to get to Neidong Forest Park. If you are driving a car, before entering the Wulai area make a right turn and cross the bridge. There is adequate signage in both English and Chinese that will follow a route behind the Wulai waterfall and further into the mountains. You reach a small village and turn left. From there cross another small bridge and make a right turn which will bring you to the main gate. 


Map / Location

 

Guanyin Mountain (觀音山)

- The Yinghanling Trail to the peak of Guanyin Mountain

Guanyin Mountain (觀音山) is a 616 meter tall extinct volcanic mountain in New Taipei City that is ecologically diverse and has excellent panoramic views of the Danshui River as well as the Taiwan Strait. The mountain is commonly frequented by hikers, bird watchers and families enjoying their weekend.

It was named after the Buddha of Compassion who in Chinese-speaking countries such as Taiwan, China, Singapore and Malaysia is a female Buddha known as Guanyin (觀音).

There’s an old saying in Taiwan that if you look at Guanyin Mountain from the Danshui side of the river that it looks like the Buddha Guanyin lying down. Personally, I don’t see it, but in Taiwan, you will come across many places where imaginative people who have partaken of just the right amount of rice wine have seen images in rocks that they think look like something else.

I’m exaggerating of course, but there are quite a few tourist spots in this country where you will be told that a certain rock looks like something else and your neck will hurt from trying to see the resemblance. 

- Looking towards a hazy Taipei from the peak of Guanyin Mountain

There are over nine different trails available for hiking on this mountain and each trail is well maintained and they are all relatively easy to navigate as well as hike. The trail I took on this specific occasion was the Ying Han Ling trail (硬漢嶺步道) or the “Tough Guy Peak” which was named because it was used in the past for military training exercises. I found out quickly why it was called the “Tough Guy Peak” because right from the start of the trail, it's all very steep stairs and is pretty hard on the legs going up.

At all trailheads in Taiwan you will be see a sign that tells you that it will take a certain amount of time to complete the hike. As a general rule when I see these signs at a trailhead, I divide the time by at least half or three quarters as I think they measure time on these trails by how quickly senior citizens move.

- The bridge connecting Taipei city to Bali and Wugu 

The weather in Taipei is notoriously hazy during the Autumn and Winter months and the available light for photographers isn’t the best, so even though the forecast wasn’t calling for rain, we knew that when we reached the top of the peak, it wasn’t likely that we would have a great view.

The Ying Han Ling peak is renowned for giving excellent panoramic views of Taipei City as well as the northern coast and the Taiwan strait. Of all the peaks I’ve been on in Taipei, its one of the most scenic and probably less photographed than some of the others. 

- A small park devoted to the Buddha Guanyin

After we finished the hike we had a bit of extra time, so we drove over to check out a little park dedicated to Guanyin. There wasn't much there other than the statues and another trail heading down to a temple. So we didn't stick around very long and made our way back to Taoyuan. 

I enjoyed my time on this hike and I will definitely try to go back on a sunny day to get more shots on the peak as well as trying some of the other trails.

This hike was extremely easy, the trails are well developed and their are lights following the trails if you happen to stay later or want to get night shots of the city. Anyone can do this hike and you don't need anything special to do it other than a bottle of water and a camera. 


And now for a bit of a rant.. 

- An abandoned pet on Guanyin Mountain

I try not to complain too much or present a negative view of the country I love when I blog, but there is one thing I want to talk about with regards to Guanyin Mountain: 

This is a mountain, its not a dumping ground for your unwanted pets.

Seeing dogs on a mountain is a common sight in Taiwan, but I don’t think I’ve hiked a mountain in the Taipei area where I’ve seen so many abandoned and extremely human-friendly dogs.

An old habit among Taiwanese is that when a pet suddenly become a burden, they are loaded up into a car and then dropped off at a mountain. Guanyin mountain seems to be Taipei’s biggest recipient of such irresponsible behaviour. There isn’t much for these dogs to live on in such an area and they all suffer from hunger and often injuries that will never be taken care of. 

Becoming a pet owner is a commitment for at least 10-15 years. If you’re not sure that you can commit that amount of time to a pet, you shouldn’t take one into your home just so that you can abandon it when it becomes a burden.

Next time I go to Guanyin Mountain to hike, I’ll be sure to carry one or two less lenses and a sufficient amount of dog food to feed the poor animals that were helplessly thrust upon the mountain. 

Map / Location

 

Gallery / Flickr (High Res Photos) 

Xinzhuang Temple Street (新莊廟街)

A few weeks ago a fellow long-term Canadian expat author, blogger and a hiking friend of mine, Nick Kembel wrote a blog about Xinzhuang (新莊), the district of New Taipei City (新北市) that he has called home for the past six years and it interested me quite a bit. 

While I’ve driven through Xinzhuang a few times, I haven’t actually stopped to visit and to tell the truth I had never actually heard of the cultural attractions that Nick’s blog introduced. Being a lover of shooting Taiwanese temples and architecture I decided that a visit to Xinzhuang’s Temple Street (新莊廟街) was something I had to put high priority on when I had some free time. 

Ciyou Temple (慈祐宮)

I found time to visit last weekend and I decided that after taking care of some other stuff in Taipei, I would try to arrive around late afternoon and explore some of the temples and the back alleys before I lost sunlight. After which I would move on to the new New Moon Pedestrian Bridge (新月橋) and then make my way back to the Temple Street to experience the night market culture of the area as Nick's blog had suggested. 

A Taiwanese child making the most of her Temple Visit 

Getting there was pretty easy, it was about a 20 minute MRT ride from Taipei Main Station (台北車站) with a transfer at Minquan West Road Station (民權西路站) and from the #2 exit you make a right turn and walk about a hundred meters and you’re more or less at the entrance. 

Guangfu Temple (廣福廟)

The thing that initially surprised me about Temple Street (and something that I feel a bit ashamed that I didn’t know already) is that the street has three temples which one of which has been classified as a level two and the other two level three national historic sites in Taiwan. Becoming a national historic site isn’t an easy task, and the fact that there are three temples in such a small area that have all attained these statuses goes to show that Xinzhuang had a very vibrant and economically sound history as the temples were all built several hundred years ago during various eras of colonial rule of Taiwan.  

A Taiwanese man praying at an altar in Ciyou Temple (慈祐宮)

Apart from shooting inside the temples, I found that the street and the alleys around it were all great for street photography. If you’re a photographer in Taiwan I highly recommend an afternoon exploring the alleys in the area as there tends to be a lot going on subject-wise. There’s a lot of see and there is ample opportunity for street work. I would recommend arriving earlier in the day though, because in Taiwan older people usually go about their business in the mornings and leave the night markets to the younger generation. 

An elderly Taiwanese women in a back alley near Temple Street 

The newly opened New Moon Bridge (新月橋) is quite beautiful, its in the shape of a crescent moon and if you walk along it at night there are some buskers performing magic tricks or music for the people who are crossing the bridge to enjoy. At about 7:00pm the bridge will light up and at this time you’ll see a lot of photographers lined up with their tripods waiting for the light show. On the way back I walked across the a glass-floor section of the bridge where you could see the river below you. It was actually a bit scary - even for someone who isn’t afraid of heights like myself. It wasn't that I didn't trust Taiwanese engineering, I just worried about the safety of my camera. 

Xinzhuang's New Moon Pedestrian Bridge (新月橋) connecting Xinzhuang to Banqiao

On the way back from the bridge I noticed that things had started to pick up and there were a lot more people arriving at Temple Street for the night market. The night market here I felt was a bit ordinary as far as night markets go. Seasoned veterans in Taiwan typically know that each night market has its special dishes and things to see - the Temple Street Night Market however doesn’t really have any culinary specialties - its all very typical street food that you’ll find at every other night market in Taiwan. I didn’t eat anything while I was there partly because I was starting to come down with a bit of the flu and my stomach wasn’t feel very good and because of the current problems with oil and food safety in Taiwan. 

Temple Street Night Market

After making my way back to the night market, I walked the entire street again and when I was done I made my way back to the MRT through a back alley avoiding the crowds and hopped on the train back towards Taipei City. 

I really enjoyed visiting Temple Street and I plan on making my way back in the future. There is more for me to see, and the possibilities for street photography earlier in the day are a lot more interesting to me than the night market (and the bridge.) 

The area is much busier at night where you can enjoy lots of street food

If you find yourself looking for something to do on the weekend in Taipei and you want to avoid the throngs of Chinese tourists at all the other tourist spots, I highly recommend you make Xinzhuang’s Temple Street a priority to visit. Its not like some of the other very touristy and not so authentic ’old streets’ in Taiwan like Sanxia Old Street (三峽老街) or Yingge’s Pottery Street (鶯歌老街) yet you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the amount of history you’re able to experience while visiting this small area of Xinzhuang, an area of Taipei city that has only recently become extremely accessible due to the expansion of the MRT system. 


Gallery