Photo Post

Shilin Residence Tulip Show (士林官邸鬱金香展)

It’s 2020. How many festivals have you attended this year? 

If you’re like most people, I'm assuming not very many. 

Over the past six months, most countries around the world have had to shut down their economies, close their borders and impose lengthy self-quarantine measures to protect their citizens from the COVID-19 pandemic.

It has been a really strange year. 

Here in Taiwan though, we’ve been extremely lucky. It’s business as usual. 

Sure, we had to endure a couple of scary months where we were all worried that our lives would be going down the same road as the rest of the world and every mention of a new infection sent us all reaching for the nearest hand-sanitizer. 

Fortunately, our nightmares (thus far) haven’t come true. 

The response of the Taiwanese government has been nothing short of superhuman. 

We’ve all been able to go to work, school and enjoy leisure activities as if there wasn’t a pandemic taking place. The entire world is looking to Taiwan and collectively scratching their heads wondering how this isolated democratic nation neighboring China was able to be so successful in containing the virus. 

Of course, the people of Taiwan also deserve a lot of credit as when it came time to take precautions with face masks, temperature checks, social-distancing, self-quarantine, etc. The entire country was on board with the government like a well-oiled machine. 

So, as the world fell into disarray, what were people in Taiwan doing? 

Well, quite a few of us were attending an internationally organized tulip festival. 

Because thats apparently how they roll over here.

Unlike so many other events around the world that have had to be cancelled, the 2020 Tulip Festival at Taipei’s Shilin Residence which took place from February 13th - 28th attracted more than 100,000 visitors.

And yeah, it was open just in time for Valentines Day, which had a one day total of around 60,000 visitors.

Imagine for a moment, during the height of the pandemic, when countries all over the world were falling victim to COVID-19, that every day tens of thousands of people were cramming themselves into a park in Taipei to check out a bunch of flowers.

Not one to miss out, I joined the thousands of other people to check them out as well. 

What do I know about tulips? Not a whole hell of a lot. 

What I do know though is that when Taiwan does anything with flowers, they don’t joke around.

The festival was held at the Shilin Residence (士林官邸), once the home of President Chiang Kai-Shek (蔣介石) and his wife Soong Mei-ling (宋美齡), which has since been converted into a massive natural space that is open for free to the public.

This year’s tulip festival, which was titled “So Great to See You” (見你真好) was touted as the best yet with over 100,000 tulips imported from the Netherlands as well as Tonami City (礪波市) in Japan’s Toyama Prefecture (富山縣), which are both renowned for their cultivation of tulips.  

With over twenty species of tulips on display, visitors were treated to several large displays, known in Taiwan as “oceans of flowers” (花海) that were separated by colour - Those sections included red, yellow, pink, purple, white, orange, black and multi-coloured tulips.  

The displays were further separated into three different styles, namely “Western Style” (西式庭園), “Asian Style” (中式庭園) and another section referred to as the “Spring Fields” (踏青區). The latter was cleverly named based on a popular Chinese-language idiom that loosely translates as “to enjoy a beautiful spring walk” (踏青賞春), an annual tradition enjoyed by many families in Taiwan during the Lunar New Year. 

More specifically, the various species on display are as follows: 

From the Netherlands 

Spryng (春紅), Fancy Frills (花蕾絲), White Prince (白馬王子), Largo (雷果), Negrita (小黑人), Salmon Dynasty (粉黨尼), Strong Gold (巨人), Bullit (布利), Orange Dynasty (桔黨尼), Cafe Noir (黑咖啡), Dow Jones (道瓊), Leo Visser (偉舍), Dutch Design (藝術家), Fabio (非比), Memphis (夢飛), Perfect Torch (火炬) 

From Tonami City

Toyama Red (富山紅), Hakuun (白雲), Van Eijk (ファンアイク), Murasakizuisho (紫水晶), Shiun (紫雲), Huis Ten Bosch (ハウステンボス), Kikomachi (黃小町), Yuyakekomachi (夕やけ小町), Light Pink Prince (淡粉紅王子), Pretty Woman (プリティウーマン), Orange Van Eijk (オレンジ ファン アイク), Momotaro (桃太郎) 

My one take away from all this translation is that no matter if its English, Dutch, Chinese or Japanese, a lot of flowers have weird names. 

Alas, I’m posting this article a few months after the tulip show ended, so if you’re interested in checking it out, you’re going to have to wait until 2021 (if we’re lucky enough to still be around by then) when the festival takes place once again. 

That being said, Taipei’s Shilin Residence has beautiful floral displays on display year-round, so if you’re looking to enjoy a bit of nature and don’t want to hike a mountain, I highly recommend stopping by this beautiful public space.

The Shilin Residence is a short walk from Taipei MRT’s Shilin Station (捷運士林站) - I’ll have a blog post about the park in the near future, but until then, all you have to do is exit the MRT station and make your way across Zhongshan North Road (中山北路) where you’ll find the entrance to the park a short distance away.

You’ll know when you’ve arrived when you see the Falun Gong protestors at the entrance. 

It seems like they really enjoy the park. They never leave.


Hoi An’s Cantonese Assembly Hall (會安廣肇會館)

I’m not one of those people who always adheres to the ‘its best to save the best for last’ philosophy, and that certainly applies with my recent articles about Hoi An’s Assembly Halls. 

My intention was to start writing from one side of the historic area of Hoi An and make my way to the other - It just so happens that the Assembly Hall that I’m writing about today was the last one on my list and also my least favourite of the bunch. 

If you’re in the process of planning a trip to Hoi An, you’ll probably have read elsewhere that the Cantonese Assembly Hall is the most popular of all the Chinese Assembly Halls and is also one of the most popular tourist attractions in the historic town. 

I’m not here to dispute that, these claims are all very true. 

Its popularity however is one of the reasons why I think it makes the visiting experience somewhat of a disappointment. 

During my time in Hoi An, I showed up at the front door of the Assembly Hall on three separate occasions before I actually went in on the fourth attempt. Each time I visited, there were several large tour groups lined up outside wanting to get in.

On my fourth attempt, I just had to suck it up and wait in line to get in with everyone else. 

While its true that I’m not particularly a fan of waiting in lines, I think the major issue was that once you get into the hall, there are so many people inside that it makes it difficult to move around and more importantly enjoy the beauty of the Assembly Hall - and yes, its beautiful.

While the lines, the amount of people inside and the inability to move around freely are issues for most people, the thing that turned me off most was that the Cantonese Assembly Hall is the only tourist destination in Hoi An that prohibits photography. 

There are areas within this Assembly Hall where you can take photos, but the shrine area is strictly off-limits with signage all over the place warning people not to take photos.

I’m sure they’re not as strict about their ‘No Photography’ policy as they are at the Sistine Chapel, but they’ve made an effort to ensure that people don’t take photos, so you’ll probably want to respect their wishes. 

There are definitely areas within the hall where you can still take some damn beautiful photos, but unfortunately my visit to the hall was a disappointment in this regard and the photos I’m presenting you with today are clearly a reflection of that as they are not up to my personal standards.

Looking on the bright side though, the decorations, architectural design, murals and the rear-garden are stunning and while it may not seem important at the moment, the hall is also home to a really nice set of public washrooms! 

Before I start talking about the Assembly Hall, if you’d like to know more about Hoi An or its Overseas Chinese Assembly Halls, I recommend taking a look at my introduction to both:

Link: Chinese Assembly Halls Of Hoi An (會安華人會館)

Quang Trieu Assembly Hall (廣肇會館)

Records indicate that the Quang Trieu Assembly Hall, otherwise known as the “Cantonese Assembly Hall” was constructed in 1885, which would make it over 130 years old today.

Most of what you see today however is the result of a reconstruction project that took place in 1964. 

Constructed by the Cantonese (廣東人) people who immigrated to the area for better opportunities, the Assembly Hall is one of the most ornate and most beautiful in Hoi An. 

Before we talk about the hall though, I think it’s important to take a minute to talk about what the term “Cantonese” actually means, because it’s actually quite ambiguous. 

Historically in English, when we refer to “Canton”, we are referring to a city in Southern China known today as “Guangzhou” (廣州). The word “Cantonese” however not only refers to a specific geographic location, but also a culture and language spoken by an estimated 70 million people around the world.

In terms of the geography, there has been some conflation with the term “Canton” as it was meant to refer to the city known today as “Guangzhou” (廣州), but actually should have actually meant “Guangdong” (廣東), the province of China where the Cantonese language is primarily spoken. 

The “Greater Canton” area today consists not only of Guangdong Province, but also neighbouring Guangxi (廣西), Hong Kong (香港) and Macau (澳門).

As one of China’s earliest international trading ports, Guangzhou became the key to trade between China, other parts of Asia and the Western World. Over time its position as a trading powerhouse also helped to ensure that the Cantonese people would spread all over the world, ultimately becoming one of the largest ethnic groups of Overseas Chinese.

Where some people get confused is that when we refer to someone as “Cantonese”, it doesn’t necessarily mean that they came directly from “Guangzhou”, but find their ancestry in any of the areas where the Cantonese language (廣東話) is primarily spoken. 

While the Cantonese share a language, cuisine and distinct culture of their own, they are not considered to be a separate ethnic group, so they are generally classified under the larger “Han” (漢人) ethnic group and not one of China’s 55 ethnic minorities.

The Cantonese Assembly Hall thus represents all the people of Cantonese origin who hail from Guangzhou, Guangxi, Hong Kong, Macau and throughout the diaspora. 

Link: Cantonese People (Wiki) | Cantonese Language (Wiki)

As I mentioned above, the Assembly Hall was constructed in 1885 and was home to a shrine that was originally dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea, Thien Hau (天后). With shrines already dedicated to the popular goddess at the All-Chinese Assembly Hall (中華會館) and the Phuc Kien Assembly Hall (福建會館), the main shrine was later converted into a “Quan Cong” (關公) place of worship. 

In 1964, due to damage caused by flooding, the Assembly Hall underwent a period of restoration and much of the interior was changed into what we see today. What this means is that even though the hall was constructed over 130 years ago, most of the interior is only around six decades old. 

Today the Cantonese Assembly Hall is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the historic town of Hoi An - located near the Japanese Covered Bridge, the riverfront and some of the best restaurants and coffee shops in town, it is an ideal location for tourists.

The hall is home to the yearly “Nguyen Trieu Festival” (Lantern Festival) on the fifteenth day of the Lunar New Year Celebrations.

Likewise on June 24th (lunar calendar) the hall comes alive with celebrations honouring the birth of Quan Cong (關公), the god enshrined within the hall. If you’re lucky enough to be visiting during both of these times, you’ll get to experience some of the traditions that the Chinese brought with them to Hoi An and continue to celebrate now.  

Design

The layout of the hall is similar to what you’ll have seen around town as it was designed with the traditional Chinese ‘Two Hall’ (兩殿兩廊式) architectural style. What that means is that you’ll find a ‘Front Hall’ (前殿) and a ‘Main Hall’ (正殿), an open-air courtyard (中程) and two covered halls on both the eastern (左護龍) and western (右護龍) sides. Similar to the image below.

729086628_m.jpg

While the architectural layout of the hall may seem familiar to some of the other halls around Hoi An, its important to note that at this hall, its on a much grander scale with the addition of a beautiful three-arch front gate (三觀), a front courtyard (前院), a beautiful rear courtyard (後院) and ornate decorations and murals throughout the hall. 

Starting with the front gate, the ‘three-entrance’ gate consists of four stone pillars with a two-layered roof that uses beautiful green tiles. The gate is decorated with dragons and flowers with stone lions placed on top of each of the four pillars. Directly in the middle there is a plaque that reads “Cantonese Assembly Hall” (廣肇會館) in Chinese characters. 

Interestingly, the ‘Front Hall’, which acts as the main entrance to the Assembly Hall, is probably the most plain-looking part of the hall as it is somewhat lacking in colour.

The unfortunate thing about the amount of people who visit is that you typically get ushered inside and aren’t really able to spend much time checking out the small details. So, even though it’s not as colourful as the rest of the building, it’s the oldest section and the lack of colour, faded stone, roof tiles and dragons on the roof are all a sign of its age.

The interior of the hall has beautifully painted murals on the left and right and the front doors are painted with “Door Gods” (門神) that help to protect the shrine.

To add a bit of colour they have also added locally made red lanterns that hang from the ceiling. 

Link: Door Gods (Wiki)

Once you’ve entered the Front Hall you’re automatically met with the courtyard in the middle with the two Guardian Dragon (護龍) wings on your left and right and the Main Hall directly ahead of you.

What’s going to grab your eye right away though is the beautiful ceramic dragon fountain directly in the middle of courtyard, which has western-style standing lamps on all four corners to light it up at night. 

One thing that I really appreciated was how it seemed like nature was reclaiming the main hall area with lots of greenery growing on and hanging off of the roofs of both of the wings. 

The two wings on the eastern and western side are where ‘Assembly-Hall’-related activities would take place and when inside you’ll only find some murals on the wall with some space for storage. What’s special about the two wings though is that they extend beyond the main hall and each have a shrine room of their own (dedicated to Cantonese ancestors) and then extend back to the rear courtyard. 

The read courtyard features a beautifully maintained garden space, as well as another large and beautiful ceramic dragon fountain. From my observation, it seemed like the majority of the visitors were spending most of their time enjoying this area rather than the crowded front sections.

I suppose that’s understandable though because the garden is quite peaceful and is also home to a convenient and well-maintained public restroom, which isn’t all that common around town.

Believe me when I tell you, if you have to use the bathroom when you’re in Hoi An, it can be a bit of an issue.  

Like the Front Hall, the exterior of the Main Hall where the shrine is located is somewhat plain as it has faded with time, you’ll want to take note of the two pillars that help to hold up the roof and separate the three different sections of the shrine inside. The green tiles on the roof have faded, but they shine in the sun and the ceramic dragons on either side are quite beautiful.

Quan Cong Shrine (關聖大帝廟)

When the Assembly Hall was originally constructed in 1885, the shrine inside was dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea Thien Hau (天后), but as I mentioned above, Hoi An was already home to a couple of shrines dedicated to her at the All-Chinese Assembly Hall and the Phuc Kien Assembly Hall. It was later decided that the primary deity within the shine would change to Quan Cong (關聖大帝).

“Quan Cong” just so happens to be one of the most popular Chinese deities and the image of his red face and long beard have spread throughout the world in temples, shrines, Chinese restaurants, etc.

He is also one of the most popular deities found within Cantonese places of worship around the world.

A real life figure, Guan Yu (關於) was a legendary general during the Three Kingdoms (三國) period whose exploits were canonized in the novel “Romance of the Three Kingdoms” (三國演義).

Known for his loyalty, piety, moral integrity, sense of justice and his military genius, legends of his exploits spread throughout China and his achievements were glorified so much that he was deified during the Sui Dynasty (隋朝) sometime between 581-618.

Today he is even worshipped as a ‘bodhisattva’ by Buddhists and as a guardian deity in Chinese Folk Religion and Taoism. 

Temples can be found in his honour through China, Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan, Korea, Japan, South East Asia and wherever the Chinese diaspora has spread. You’ll also find shrines to him located within homes, businesses police stations and Assembly Halls like this one.

The strange thing about Quan Cong worship is that he is sometimes referred to in English as “The God of War” or “The God of Wealth”, but he is actually neither of those - He’s a guardian deity that helps protect people from harm and misfortune. He’s also more-or-less your go-to deity for almost any problem you need spiritual help with. 

The confusion about him being the “God of Wealth” is because his image is often placed within businesses - but this is simply because he’s renowned for his honesty and integrity, which is a way that businesses tell people that they’re trustworthy.

A legendary general, he’s rarely ever seen without his “Green Dragon Crescent Blade” (靑龍偃月刀), so it’s easy to see why he’s confused as the “God of War”, but once again, that’s not the case.

He was of course a mighty warrior, but he only went to war in order to restore peace to the land. Thus he is worshipped as a man of peace and someone who protected his home and all those who served under him. 

Link: Guan Yu (Wiki) 

In terms of this Assembly Hall, its shouldn’t be a big surprise that the Cantonese people would insist on a Quan Cong shrine as he is one of the most popular deities in the Greater-Canton region. As a protector deity, his worship in the Hoi An area would be multi-faceted as he would serve as a protector of the immigrant population while also ensuring that business-related activities went smoothly. 

While the shrine was converted to one that is primarily dedicated to Quan Cong, its important to note that the Goddess Thien Hau wasn’t completely evicted when the change took place. Today she sits to the left of Quan Cong while the “God of Wealth” (財神) is enshrined to the right. 

The shrine room is quite beautiful, but as I mentioned above, they’re a bit strict about people walking around or getting too close (in addition to taking photos), so I can’t offer too much in terms of photos of the room, which is quite unfortunate. 

Even though the shrine area is off-limits for photography, you can still take some really nice photos at this Assembly Hall, so you should definitely take the time to visit.

Yes, it is busier than all the others, but there is good reason for that. If you’re in Hoi An, you should definitely visit this one, but make sure to visit the other Chinese Assembly Halls as well!  

Getting There

 

Hoi An is a coastal town in Vietnam’s central Quang Nam province that is a 30km drive southeast of neighbouring Da Nang City (峴港市). Since Hoi An has become such a popular destination for travellers, getting to the historic town from Da Nang is quite convenient. Whether you arrive by air through Da Nang International Airport, by train through Da Nang Station or by coach, you’ll be able to easily get yourself to Hoi An through public or private transport, all of which are quite affordable. 

While staying in Vietnam, you should also download the “Grab” app for your phone so that you can easily grab a taxi during your travels without having to worry about getting cheated. 

Link: Transportation Guide: How to Get from Da Nang to Hoi An

Once you’ve arrived in Hoi An, getting around is really easy - just walk everywhere! 

The ‘Old Town’ area of Hoi An that has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site isn’t all that big, and due to so much pedestrian traffic, they’ve blocked the area off from cars, so unless you’re riding a bicycle or a scooter, the best way to get around is on foot. 

When you’re ready to start exploring you’ll find that the majority of historic properties, temples, museums and restaurants are located on or between the riverside and Tran Phu Street. What you’ll want to keep in mind though is that exploring the historic properties of Old Town isn’t free, so you’re going to have to purchase an entrance ticket.

The entrance tickets are 120,000 VND (5 USD) per person and gives you access to five sightseeing places. The tickets are valid for the duration of your stay, so if you don’t use all of the tickets on your first day, you’ll still be able to use what you have remaining on the next day.

With so many places to visit within the Old Town though, five tickets might not be enough, so you might have to purchase a second set of tickets if you want to fully experience the town. 

Link: Hoi An Old Town Ticket, Entrance Fees & Sites (Hidden Hoi An)

The Cantonese Assembly Hall is situated in one of the busiest tourist intersections of Hoi An. Like all the other halls, it is conveniently located on Tran Phu Street but is only a short walk away from the bridge that takes you across the river to the An Hoi Islet as well as the popular Japanese-Covered Bridge.

The area near the hall is a popular one with relaxing coffee shops, retail shops, markets and restaurants. If you arrive at the Assembly Hall when large tourist groups (especially those from China) are lining up to go in, its probably better to grab a coffee and wait a little while. The tour groups never really stay that long and this is one of the Assembly Halls that you’re going to want to enjoy the smaller details if possible. 

Address: 176 Trần Phú, Cẩm Châu, Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam

The hall is open from 8:00 am - 5:00 pm daily. 


Hoi an’s Japanese Covered Bridge (會安日本橋)

If my blog up until now has led you to believe that all there is to see in Hoi An are old Chinese Assembly Halls, I’ll have done you (and the historic World Heritage village) a bit of a disservice. There’s so much to see, do and (more importantly) eat in Hoi An that even if you devoted several weeks to exploring, you wouldn’t even begin to touch all the amazing things the area has to offer. 

Sure, there are currently only around ‘twenty-two’ historic properties within the village that are open for tourism, but that is a number that will continue to grow over the next few years. Thanks to the efforts of the local authorities, many places of historical significance throughout the town are either in the process of or are slated to be restored and opened to the public in the near future.  

Sure, you can use your admission tickets to check out the the historic buildings that have already opened to the public, but there’s a certain romantic feeling while walking around the historic streets and alleys of Hoi An where you’re able to appreciate the hundreds, if not thousands of historic properties that the village has to offer.

In fact, I think if you’ve spent a day or two exploring the historic tourist sites, you could easily spend the rest of your time in town doing a simple walking-tour to check out quiet alleys that are far away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist crowds. 

I hope to highlight some of these other areas over the next few blog posts.

Today though, I’m going to start by introducing one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hoi An (and what has coincidentally also become the symbol of the world heritage town itself), the famed Japanese Covered Bridge.

Which, if you weren’t already aware, no trip to Hoi An could be considered complete without a visit. 

Unlike the Chinese Assembly Halls that I’ve already posted extensively about, you can easily find a multitude of information about the bridge online. Unfortunately, not too many of those resources agree on the facts - So there’s quite a bit of contradictory information about the bridge online.

With this blog, I’ll be doing what I usually do to help tell the story of the bridge, its design and its long history so that you can get a feel for what you’re actually going to be looking at when you visit! 

The “Japanese-Covered Bridge” (日本橋)

When your entire town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you can be sure that there is a plethora of cool stuff to see and do - More specifically though, when you’re the iconic symbol of that town and are also prominently featured on the back of one of the country’s national bills, its safe to say that you’re probably the stand out of what is already an amazing place to visit.

The so-called “Japanese Bridge” is Hoi An’s most recognizable landmark and not only serves as the symbol of the town but is also a nationally recognized landmark and is said to be the most beautiful bridge in South East Asia.

Yes, this bridge is beautiful, its also historic, but what most might not realize is that its also a pagoda, which means that it serves a practical purposes as well as religious purpose making it an important place for tourists and locals alike. 

One of the things that confuses a lot of tourists about the bridge is its name - which is why I referred to it above as the “so-called” Japanese Bridge above. So, before I get into the history and the design of the bridge, I think we should clear up some of the confusion about its name. 

Most tourists and travel sites are going to refer to the bridge simply as the “Japanese Bridge” or the “Japanese-Covered Bridge” in English, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. 

What probably confuses people most is the lack of uniformity from the various travel resources on the internet which use a mixture of formal and informal names.

This leads people to think that there are actually a bunch of tourist bridges in Hoi An. 

Oh wait, there are actually a couple tourist pedestrian bridges in town.

There’s only one that you should really care about though. 

Below is a list of the most common names for the bridge:  

  1. Lai Viễn Kiều (來遠橋) ‘Bridge that Receives Guests from Afar

  2. Cầu Nhật Bản (日本橋) ‘Japanese Bridge’  

  3. Chùa Cầu (廊橋) ‘Pagoda Bridge’ 

The official name of the bridge is “Lai Viễn Kiều” (來遠橋), which was presented as a gift by Lord Nguyễn Phúc Chu, who carved the name in Chinese characters on a plaque which he placed on the entrance.

Later, locals started to refer to the bridge colloquially as “Chùa Cầu” (廊橋), the “Pagoda Bridge” and its more widely used name today “Cầu Nhật Bản” (日本橋), the “Japanese Bridge.”

How you personally refer to the bridge is up to you, none of the names are wrong, but what you should keep in mind is that there is only one iconic bridge in town, so don’t get confused by all the names you’ll see on the web.

History

Although the exact date of its construction is unclear, the Japanese Bridge in Hoi An has been an important part of the booming international port town for (at least) the past four centuries.

Due to the lack of documented history there is an open debate as to when the bridge officially opened to the public, which if you know anything about bridges in Asia, is a bit strange.

The thing about bridges in this part of the world is that they’re almost always engraved with a plaque that includes the name and the date of its construction. This one could have included a similar engraved plaque at some point in its history, but the bridge underwent renovation and restoration projects in 1763, 1815, 1875, 1917, 1962, 1986 and 1992 and it could have disappeared during any of those periods.

It stands to reason though that if a plaque existed before the 1800s, someone would have wrote down the exact date of construction. The first recorded mention we have of the bridge dates back to 1617, so most scholars think that the best we can do is estimate that it originated sometime in the 1590s. 

The bridge was originally constructed by the Japanese Chamber of Commerce for the purpose of connecting the Japanese Quarter with the Chinese Quarter, which was at the time separated by a canal in the Thu Bon River (秋盆河). 

Once completed, the bridge became an important tool for business as it allowed for a flow of traffic across the canal and more importantly, networking between the two sides.

Unfortunately the Japanese were only able to make use of the bridge for a couple of decades before they were forced to return home. The reason for this was because the Tokugawa Shogunate (德川幕府) back home in Japan instituted an isolationist “Sakoku” (鎖國) policy in 1633, which ultimately closed the country (and all aspects of foreign trade) for almost two centuries and required all Japanese citizens doing business outside of the country to return home.

Link: Closed Country “Sakoku” (Wiki)

Although there is also debate about whether or not this is the case, it seems that our best indication as to the exact age of the bridge are the animal statues that guard the entrances of either end of the bridge.

Despite their sacred nature in Japanese culture, the ‘monkey’ (symbolizing safety) and the ‘dog’ (protection) are also part of the Chinese Zodiac so it is thought that they represent the years of the zodiac when construction on the bridge was started and completed. 

What confuses me about this is that almost all of the information you’ll find about the bridge claims that this means that construction started in 1593 and ended in 1595. These years however were actually the ‘snake’ and ‘sheep’ years and thus don’t correspond to the year of the monkey or the year of the dog. 

Unless there’s something I’m missing, if we’re using the Chinese Zodiac as evidence of the age of the bridge, construction likely started in 1596 and was completed two years later in 1598.

I’d be happy to be proven wrong here though.

Link: Chinese Lunar Years: Animal Zodiac (Wisdom Portal)

The bridge after dark

In 1763, after the Japanese left town, the bridge was renovated and the pagoda was added with a shrine to “The God of Weather” (more on that later).  

Then during the French Colonial Period (1887-1945), the French, who made Hoi An an important part of their base of operations flattened out the bridge converting it from a pedestrian-only bridge to one that motorcycles could also cross.

In 1990, the bridge was recognized as a National Level Historic Site. 

Finally in 1986 the bridge was restored to its original ‘arched’-design with only pedestrians allowed to cross.

Unfortunately by that time enough structural damage had been done that another major restoration project would become necessary to ensure the continued existence of the bridge - which continues to be an issue to this day. 

The Legend of Namazu and the Pagoda

Hoi An may have been spared most of the devastation that the rest of the country had to endure during Vietnam’s various modern conflicts, but that doesn’t mean that the historic town has been able to avoid disaster throughout its long history.

The area is prone to not only typhoons and random flooding, but also earthquakes, which together have wreaked havoc upon the town on various occasions. 

Something you’ll notice when you visit in Hoi An is that there are visual reminders of each of these natural disasters marked on the walls of the historic tourist buildings throughout the town.

Which is also a reminder that it is inevitable that yet another disaster will strike. 

While we can’t predict earthquakes, we know when a typhoon will strike and are much better at preventing damage from flooding.

Back in the 16th Century though, these things were a bit more difficult to explain - The Japanese residents of Hoi An though thought they had it all figured out, and legend has it that the construction of the bridge was one of the ways to prevent such disasters from happening again. 

The Japanese, who likewise came from an area of the world that is prone to similar natural disasters, explained that this was all the work of Namazu (鯰), a giant catfish which lives under the earth and whose body spans from India to Japan.

The explanation was that when Namazu was swimming in the waters deep beneath the ground, it would cause the earth to shake.

According to the myth, the reason why earthquakes don’t happen more often is because another powerful god, Takemikazuchi-no-mikoto (建御雷) restrains the catfish and only when he lets his guard down is Namazu able to swim around and cause earthquakes.

Links: Namazu (Wiki) | Namazu: The Earthshaker (History of Geology)  

As it was widely believed that Namazu’s giant body stretched from India to Japan, someone came up with the idea that constructing a bridge in this location would essentially assist in the effort by placing a pin in its back to keep it in place.

To be safe, in 1763, an added layer of protection was added in the form of a pagoda (within the bridge) with a shrine to the “God of Weather.” 

This is where the information you’ll find about the bridge once again becomes a bit confusing.

Most articles will claim that the so-called “God of Weather” is the local “northern” god “Tran Vo Bac De”, which would lead you to believe that this is a northern Vietnamese god.

The entrance to the Pagoda on the bridge.

This isn’t actually the case and is probably the result of some bad translation. 

Tran Vo Bac De” is actually one of the highest ranking deities within Taoism (道教) and does hail from the “north”, but it’s the north of China and not Vietnam.

In China, he is often referred to as the “Zhenwu Emperor” (真武大帝), “Xuanwu” (玄武) or the “Black Emperor” (黑蒂) and is thought to be extremely powerful and able to control the elements, which (most importantly in the case of the bridge) includes water and the weather. 

This is important because not only was Hoi An a seafaring port of trade, but also an area that was prone to natural disaster, so it was considered auspicious to have a deity enshrined in the pagoda that people could pray to for better weather and safer travel conditions. 

Link: Xuanwu (Wiki)

Design  

The bridge after dark

Even though its commonly referred to as the “Japanese Bridge”, the architectural design is a harmonious blend of the various styles of Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese design.

Sure, there are elements that are purely Japanese in nature but everything from the material used to the patterns and decorations are a fusion of the various cultures that have made their home in Hoi An over the past few centuries.  

The arched bridge is 60 feet in length (18 meters) connecting Tran Phu Road on the eastern side with Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Road on the western side.

Otherwise known as the Chinese Quarter and the Japanese Quarter, respectively.  

The base layers of the bridge are constructed with stone while the top is constructed primarily with red lacquered wood. The interior likewise features beautiful wood-carvings and motifs between each of the pillars and along the walls of the pagoda. 

Understandably, after several centuries, the original colors of the decorations both inside as well as those on the roof have faded and are in need of a bit of a refresh. The plain-looking wood that you’ll find today though is still quite good looking thanks to the craftsmanship of those who helped in the construction.  

Constructed as a physical and metaphorical ‘bridge’ between the two cultures, the roof was designed using a traditional Chinese style featuring three different layers with decorations on the top of each layer. Additionally, there is a special layer on both of the entrances on either side that faces the opposite direction as the three layers above, which is somewhat uncommon for this type of roof and makes its complex design quite unique. 

To the average tourist, the bridge may seem somewhat plain - I’ve even seen some travel reviews from people saying that you ‘shouldn’t bother wasting a ticket’ to walk on the bridge, but if you don’t take a few minutes to check out the interior, you’ll be missing out.

Sure, some of the decorations have faded over time, but I’m sure you wouldn’t be very good looking after four hundred years either, so make sure to take some time to enjoy the bridge. You most certainly won’t be wasting anything if you do.  

2020 Renovation Project

One thing that you’ll learn quickly when you visit Hoi An is that the city is prone to flooding.

As I mentioned above, in many of the historic buildings in the village, you’ll find markers on the walls that represent the various floods that have caused a considerable amount of damage over the years. 

The area is likewise prone to typhoons and earthquakes. 

With the constant thread of flood, earthquake or typhoon, the local government has to be constantly on the ball when it comes to the preservation and maintenance of the historic properties within Hoi An - which is part of the reason why they’ve instituted the admission ticket system. 

Unfortunately, the condition of the 400 year old bridge has become a major area of concern with fears that the bridge could collapse sometime in the near future as many of the poles and beams that support it have cracked and rotted.

To address this issue, the People’s Committee of Quang Nam Province approved an almost one million dollar project to restore the bridge to ensure its continued existence. 

It is unclear how long it will take to complete the restoration project, which is slated to start sometime within the first quarter of 2020, but you should be aware that if you visit sometime this year, that you may not be able to experience one of South East Asia’s most beautiful bridges as it will be covered up for restoration. 

Korean tourists at the bridge.

Link: Hoi An to spend $860,000 strengthening vulnerable Pagoda Bridge (VN Express) 

If you ask me, it would also be a bit helpful if the local government made an effort to also clean up the stinky, stagnant water in the canal that flows under the bridge. That being said, COVID-19 is probably preventing anything from happening on schedule as well as your visit to the area, so I’m sure we can expect the project to be delayed.

Getting There 

 

Hoi An is a coastal town in Vietnam’s central Quang Nam province that is a 30km drive southeast of neighbouring Da Nang City (峴港市). Since Hoi An has become such a popular destination for travellers, getting to the historic town from Da Nang is quite convenient.

Whether you arrive by air through Da Nang International Airport, by train through Da Nang Station or by coach, you’ll be able to easily get yourself to Hoi An through public or private transport, all of which are quite affordable.

While staying in Vietnam, you should also download the “Grab” app for your phone so that you can easily grab a taxi during your travels without having to worry about a language barrier or getting cheated.

Link: Transportation Guide: How to Get from Da Nang to Hoi An

Once you’ve arrived in Hoi An, getting around is really easy - just walk everywhere!

The ‘Old Town’ area of Hoi An that has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site isn’t all that big, and due to so much pedestrian traffic, they’ve blocked the area off from cars, so unless you’re riding a bicycle or a scooter, the best way to get around is on foot.

When you’re ready to start exploring you’ll find that the majority of historic properties, temples, museums and restaurants are located on or between the riverside and Tran Phu Street. What you’ll want to keep in mind though is that exploring the historic properties of Old Town isn’t free, so you’re going to have to purchase an entrance ticket.

The entrance tickets are 120,000 VND (5 USD) per person and gives you access to five sightseeing places. The tickets are valid for the duration of your stay, so if you don’t use all of the tickets on your first day, you’ll still be able to use what you have remaining on the next day.

With so many places to visit within the Old Town though, five tickets might not be enough, so you might have to purchase a second set of tickets if you want to fully experience the town. 

Link: Hoi An Old Town Ticket, Entrance Fees & Sites (Hidden Hoi An)

While some of the other attractions in town might be a little more liberal with their ticket-taking policies, you can rest assured that when you arrive at the bridge that the gatekeepers will be there to take your ticket. This not only helps with crowd control but also ensuing that the bridge gets enough funding for its preservation and allowing it to continue serving as the symbol of Hoi An. 

Like many of Hoi An’s tourist destinations, the Japanese Bridge is located on Tran Phu street. 

It is conveniently located at the western end of the street and connects to the laid back Nguyen Thi Minh Khai street across the canal. If you arrive at a time of the day when there is a long line of people wanting to get on the bridge, never fear, the area near both sides of the canal is well-known for its cafes and restaurants. You should be able to stop for a quick break before making your way onto the bridge.

Congrats to the lovely couple having wedding photos taken!

You’ll also want to remember that a ticket is only required for those who actually want to walk on the bridge. If you haven’t purchased your admission tickets yet, never fear, one of the eleven ticket stalls within town is situated across from the bridge where you can walk in, get your tickets and a map of the popular tourist destinations in the old town.

If you just want to take photos of the exterior, you can easily walk around and take photos. Likewise, if you want to cross the canal, there is another nearby footbridge to get across without having to use one of your tickets.

But you should definitely not miss the chance to walk across the bridge if you’re in Hoi An.

Address: Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai, Phường Minh An, Hội An, Quảng Nam 564010, Vietnam