Street

People of the Night 8 (饒河夜市)

The next few posts in my People of the Night series are all going to be from Taipei's popular Raohe Tourist Night Market (饒河夜市.) Raohe Night Market is my personal favourite night market in Taipei. It is a 600 meter long street that has lots of delicious foods and due to the narrow nature of the street, there are a lot more food stalls than there are of other varieties of stalls. It has some of the best food including the famous black pepper buns, lots of seafood choices, Japanese cuisine and one of my favourite dishes - lamb stewed in Chinese herbal medicine. It also has the beautiful Ci-You Temple (慈祐宮) which is one of my favourite temples in Taipei.

With this series, I'm going to split up the posts with different themes which will focus on the various aspects of the night market and the people who set up shop there. The themes will focus on different kinds of foods, fortune tellers, games, and salespeople. I also won't put a cap of five shots per post like I did with the previous series - although I'll try to keep it close.



1. Taiwanese Glass Artist (琉璃師傅)

There is a small Taiwanese company you might have heard of called "Liuligongfang" (琉璃工房) that designs coloured glass sculptures for world leaders and the rich. This type of traditional glass art was a dying art before the company revived it and amassed a large fortune in the process. Through the work of Liuligongfang, Taiwanese glass art became popular on the world stage and people who like that kind of thing may consider visiting the country for dorm handmade art. This specific artist set up in a quiet section of the nightmarket and carefully works in her art to sell people. Her designs are usually traditional objects and are often the same colour as jade because it makes you look rich. It's cool to stop and watch to see how she does this stuff. That or you can just stare at the flames. 

2. The Faux-Painter (Bead Art) 

While walking past this guy the first time I thought he was an amazing artist who was in the middle of the night market painting traditional art. Upon further inspection however I realized that he was attaching coloured beads to a stencil almost like a paint-by-numbers artist would do. Artist or not, this guy was in the middle of making something beautiful and if the frames behind him were any indication of his skill, I would have to say he's quite gifted. This vendor will sell you a box with the stencil, tools and all the beads you need to complete the project. All you need is a bit of dedication and lots of free time. 

3. The Puzzle Lady (拼圖老闆娘)

In a world where smart phones, tablets, computers and video game consoles consume the majority of a child's free time, it's refreshing to see that a vendor selling puzzles can still be so popular with all age types. When I walked past, kids were yelling out the names of the designs they wanted to see while adults patiently waited behind them. She had all sorts of puzzles including famous Taiwanese scenery, world landmarks and the most recent Japanese anime and Disney characters. I had thought that this kind of activity died off with my generation but if her business on that night was any indication - then I was wrong.  

4. Pinball (彈珠遊戲)

Pinball is a popular game in all night markets, just like in my last series from Zhongli Night Market, you can see a few pinball vendors in the Raohe night market. It is really cheap to play a few rounds of pinball and if you play, you will always get a little prize. If you do well, and invest more you may even get a much better prize. In a world where kids are constantly using smart phones to play games, it is nice to see that they can still appreciate old games like this. 

5. The Sticker Maker (姓名貼) 

Stickers are important in Taiwan and guys like this are quite busy. People like to print stickers with their names on them and they will put the stickers on every piece of stationery that they own - making it quite difficult to steal a Taiwanese person's pen. These stickers are relatively cheap and it is normal for kids to always have some in their pencil cases. I had some stickers of my own printed a year or two ago with my name and a batman logo beside them. I was pretty proud of my stickers, but I couldn't bring myself to use them as religiously as kids here do. If you visit Taiwan, some personalized stickers might be a great souvenir to bring back home with you. 

People of the Night 7 (饒河夜市)

The next few posts in my People of the Night series are all going to be from Taipei's popular Raohe Tourist Night Market (饒河街觀光夜市) Raohe Night Market is my personal favourite night market in Taipei. It is a 600 meter long street that has lots of delicious foods and due to the narrow nature of the street, there are a lot more food stalls than there are of other varieties of stalls.

It has some of the best food including the famous black pepper buns, lots of seafood choices, Japanese cuisine and one of my favourite dishes - lamb stewed in Chinese herbal medicine. It also has the beautiful Ci-You Temple (慈祐宮) which is one of my favourite temples in Taipei.

With this series, I'm going to split up the posts with different themes which will focus on the various aspects of the night market and the people who set up shop there. The themes will focus on different kinds of foods, fortune tellers, games, and salespeople. I also won't put a cap of five shots per post like I did with the previous series - although I'll try to keep it close.


If you missed the first post in the series click here: Rao-He Night Market 1


1. Traditional Facial Threading (挽臉老闆)

One of the strangest things I saw when I first arrived in Taiwan was this woman who set up shop in an alley between a couple of buildings in downtown Zhongli. There was a long line for her services and every time I walked by I tried to figure out what she was doing. She had a couple of strings in her hand and she was moving them around the face of a young woman who had some sort of powder on her face. I eventually struck up the nerve to ask the boss what she was doing and she explained that it was a type of traditional hair removal. No shaving required! As a guy whose family history is almost 100% of Scottish origin, this interested me quite a bit. One of the things I hate dong most is shaving - and I have to shave quite often. The lady shattered my dreams however when she told me that if I were to try this type of hair removal, It would be extremely painful. In this shot we have quite a large shop set up with several facial threading stations on the outside with Taiwanese foot massage services inside. The boss stopped to look at me as I passed by. I'm not sure how much this costs, but women sure seem to like it. 

 

2. What's in a Name? (算命者)

When I covered the Zhongli Night Market I had a shot of a similar fortune teller. This type of fortune teller is a master of names and they advise people whether or not their name is lucky or not, the name they've chosen for their baby is appropriate and whether or not their companies name is one that will allow them to make loads and loads of cash. As a North American, I find it strange when people change their names. In our culture, someone who changes their name is usually a criminal and doesn't want to be recognized when they rejoin society. In Taiwan however, your name might not be lucky enough to score you a high paying job, or a rich husband, so it's important to have the right name. 

3. Mole Fortune Teller / Remover (美容點痣專家) 

Moles, moles, moles.. What can I say? North Americans are not fond of moles. We consider them somewhat unattractive and worry about their cancerous side effects. In Taiwan however, moles can be considered good luck charms and a mole in a certain position on your face may mean big things for you. This woman is a type of fortune teller who will analyze the moles on your face and tell you if they're good or bad. More importantly if your mole is unlucky or unhealthy, she will help you to remove it. Given that Taiwan's Health Care System is so exceptional, I'm not sure I'd want to have a mole removed at the night market. I'd much prefer to visit a dermatologist! I asked a few friends about this kind of fortune teller, and they informed me that they are actually quite popular.  

4. God Bird Fortune Teller (神鳥卜卦)

The "God Bird" type of fortune teller is a pretty rare variety in Taiwan's night markets. You don't see them that often, but when you do, they are usually quite busy. This type of fortune teller uses birds which will choose certain pieces of paper and the fortune teller will analyze what is on the paper to tell you your fortune. It only costs about 10 US dollars for the bird to tell your fortune, which isn't expensive although I'd much rather pay that money to have the bird released. 

5. Shoe Saleswoman (鞋子老闆娘)

Over the course of shooting the Rao-He night market, I took a shots of this vendor on each visit. Each time I visited, she was doing the same thing - reading the newspaper. I had close up shots of her and wide-open shots as well. In the end I went with this shot because it showed more of her environment. This vendor sells affordable shoes for children and teenagers which makes it popular with parents who are looking to save a bit of money. The shoes are mostly all cartoon characters or knock-offs of popular brands. This vendor has to set up shop and tear it down every day, so as you can imagine, having a chance to sit down and read this newspaper is probably a welcome break for her! 

6. Night Market Day Care (夜市保姆) 

This vendor makes her living selling cute socks. Things that are "cute" sell very easily in Taiwan, especially with young girls. I'm more of a white sock kind of guy and to tell the truth I actually buy all of my socks at the night market. In this shot, I focused on the small child doing his homework rather than his mom, who was busy at work. I'm assuming that working at the night market means that she may not have much time to spend with her child, so she brings him along from time to time. I can't imagine the night market being a boring place for a child, but it's probably not the best environment to grow up in.  


I'll be back this weekend with a post about some of the artisans and traditional games at the Raohe night market. 

If you have any questions, criticisms or corrections - send me a comment below! 

People of the Night 6 (饒河夜市)

The next five posts in my People of the Night series are all going to be from Taipei's popular Raohe Tourist Night Market (饒河夜市.) Raohe Night Market is my personal favourite night market in Taipei. It is a 600 meter long street that has lots of delicious foods and due to the narrow nature of the street, there are a lot more food stalls than there are of other varieties of stalls. It has some of the best food including the famous black pepper buns, lots of seafood choices, Japanese cuisine and one of my favourite dishes - lamb stewed in Chinese herbal medicine. It also has the beautiful Ci-You Temple (慈祐宮) which is one of my favourite temples in Taipei.

With this series, I'm going to split up the posts with different themes which will focus on the various aspects of the night market and the people who set up shop there. The themes will focus on different kinds of foods, fortune tellers, games, and salespeople. I also won't put a cap of five shots per post like I did with the previous series - although I'll try to keep it close.


1. Traditional Desserts (燒仙草/豆花) 

When I talked about desserts last time they were hot congee style desserts - This time we have Grass Jelly (燒仙草) and Tofu Pudding (豆花) in hot ginger soup. One thing I learned while living here is that Mandarin is an extremely descriptive language. When you order something you know exactly what it is. I've found myself in western restaurants requesting Chinese menus because they just make more sense to me. Often when you translate things into English, they can sound strange and unappetizing - let me assure you though, a hot bowl of "grass jelly" or "tofu pudding" are great desserts and even the fussiest of western kids would enjoy them! They both come steaming hot in bowls and you have a choice of additional ingredients to add such as tapioca balls, sweet potato cubes, taro balls, sweet barley, etc. These are healthy, cheap desserts and you can find them steaming hot in winter and with ice in summer!

2.  Ice Jelly (QQ涼圓)

Ice Jelly Is a popular summer treat. These little balls of goodness come in several different flavours which include red bean, sweet potato and taro and are prepared with a kind of jelly that surrounds them. When you buy a serving, the boss will put some fresh shaved ice in a bag and all the jellies inside (and sometimes adding a flavour for the ice) and you are given a wooden stick to pick the, out. Children love these snacks in the summer and you can always find someone selling them at almost all the night markets throughout Taiwan. 

3. Roasted Chestnuts (糖炒栗子)

Roasted chestnuts are a favourite for a lot of Taiwanese people. I'm not particularly a big fan, but they are a healthy snack. In this shot we have a high tech roasting machine pumping out the hot roasted chestnuts while the vendor looks on. Traditionally these chestnuts are roasted in a large wok, mixed with sugar over hot fire and constantly stirred by hand with a meter long spatula. My guess is that due to the popularity of these roasted chestnuts in winter that demand was too much to continue roasting them by hand. 

4. Deep Fried Stinky Tofu (炸臭豆腐)

When I arrived in Taiwan and went to the night market for the first time, I was quickly introduced to Stinky Tofu. The smell was almost unbearable at first. Luckily I quickly became immune to the smell and had friends who forced me to try it. Now whenever I smell it, I will have the urge to sit down and eat it. I can empathize with people who just arrived and can't stand it however I highly recommend stinky tofu and I believe that once you try it, you will love it. This particular vendor is selling deep fried stinky tofu with Taiwanese-style Kimchi. I find that the deep fried version is probably the easiest variation to ease foreigners into eating stinky tofu as deep frying kills most of the pungent aroma and makes it seem like a normal deep-fried tofu dish. If you haven't tried stinky tofu yet, stop wasting your time and sit down for a serving! 

5. Duck Soup (生炒鴨肉羹) 

I'm not really sure how to explain this delicious soup in English, so I'm just going to translate it into pinyin and refer to it that way. "Geng" (羹) is a popular style of soup in Taiwan. The soup is thick, hearty and filled with a lot of ingredients. It somewhat resembles a stew that we would have in the west and is probably one of the easiest kinds of foods for a foreigner to try here. The soup is actually one of the only kinds of soup I like in Taiwan as I'm not really a big fan of the more common chicken or fish soups here. 

Geng soup usually comes with stewed lamb, squid, oysters and mushroom flavours for vegetarians however this vendor is selling a duck based version of the soup and it is actually the first time I've seen someone selling this soup with duck in it.  

I would love to try it, but I have philosophical issues with eating soup when it is 30 degrees at night. I'll be back when the temperatures cool down a bit. 

6. Taking an Order

I can't remember what this vendor was selling, but whatever it was, it was steaming hot. Through the steam you can see the boss taking an order from a customer while cooking at the same time. Working with this much heat, especially in the hot Taiwan summer must be a difficult job. Even though you can't see the vendors face, I quite like this shot, so I've added it as an extra. 


I'll be back next week with a post about some of the various kinds of fortune tellers and beauticians at the Rao-He night market in what I think may be the most interesting post of the Rao-He series! 

If you have any questions or corrections - send me a comment below!