Dadaocheng Photowalks

A year or two ago I took part in an International Photowalk and photo exhibition to help promote awareness of the plight of the historic Nanjichang Community (南機場) in Taipei.

The event, which took place on two separate occasions saw a group of local as well as expat photographers descend upon the community to take photos to help tell the story of a community that is in danger of disappearing.

The event was organized in conjunction with local community leaders as well as by TC Lin, a well-known Taiwanese street photographer.  The whole event was a learning experience for all involved, especially myself who hadn’t visited the community before the event.

When TC put forth the idea of once again getting us all together to put on an International Photowalk to help promote one of Taipei’s history communities, I clicked the “attend” button without a second thought. This time however, I was coming in much more prepared than the last one because the photowalk was being held in Taipei’s historic Dadaocheng Area, a place that I’ve blogged about quite a few times in the past!

The International Photowalk and the exhibition that will follow was organized as part of the annual Tua-Tiu-Tiann International Festival of Arts (大稻埕國際美術節) which aims to bring together Taipei’s artistic community and have them converge on Dadaocheng for a month of celebrating the revitalization of the area.

The two photowalks that were arranged led us around most popular and well-known areas of Dihua Street (迪化街) but much further down the road into areas that are not as commonly visited by tourists.

Our first photowalk was more of an introduction to the event and a bit of a tour around the area for people who were unfamiliar while the second walk was more of us just walking around, taking cover from torrential downpours, chatting and taking photos.

The photos that will ultimately be used for the exhibition will focus primarily on Street Photography from both local and expat photographers who are submitting photos that will candidly show the people of Dadaocheng going about their lives.

If you don’t know what Street Photography is, my definition goes a little like this: It is a style of photography that requires 'quick-thinking' and 'chance encounters' between a photographer and his or her subjects in candid situations.

Street photography more or less is meant to act as a mirror to society and the photos are meant to evoke a response from the audience as to the different aspects of life that they may or may not be familiar with.

Most highly skilled Street Photographers are able to blend a bit of irony into their photos which offer a deeper meaning to what is happening. For me (a rather unsuccessful street photographer) I tend to focus on aspects of life in Taiwan that the people here are unlikely to notice. As an expat I’m able to look at certain aspects of life in Taiwan through the lens of an outsider which allows me to notice things that locals may take for granted.

Ultimately what is displayed at the photo exhibition will depend on what the photographers who participated submit. The photos don’t necessarily have to be street photography, but they must show aspects of life in Dadaocheng.

Even though I already have a wealth of photos from the area after blogging about the Dihua Street Lunar New Year Market, the historic City God Temple, the historic Dadaocheng Wharf, etc. But decided instead of submitting older photos that I’d only submit photos taken on the photowalks and only provide new work.

The photos I’m posted here today were all taken on the two photowalks and while there might be a bit of 'irony' in some of them, I think they show some aspects of life in Dadaocheng that most tourists miss as they usually only stay on the restored and busiest sections of Dihua Street.

The photowalks were a good time and a lot of friends who I hadn’t seen in a while came out to take part, so even though I didn’t get as many shots as I would have liked, it was still a great time and I’m really looking forward to the exhibition as well as some of the events that will take place during the Festival of Arts.

If you are free during the month of October, make sure to take a look at that event schedule and head over to Dadaocheng to take part in some of the great events that are planned - there will be art exhibitions, dance performances, traditional theatre, live music and of course photography exhibitions.

Website: Tua-Tiu-Tiann International Festival of Arts

The photo exhibition will open on October 1st between 2:30-5:00 at the URS127 galley and the photos will be on display for the entire month.

If you have been looking for the opportunity to find out who I am or just want to meet up with me and kick me in the teeth, I’ll be there on that day - hope to see you there!

Likewise, you are invited to join myself and the other talented photographers who took part on the afternoon of the opening (Oct 1st) for an after party at Dadaocheng’s Le Zinc 洛 Cafe and Bar, which is a short walk from the two exhibition spaces! 

Hope to see you there! 


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Photos)

Dadaocheng Sunset

I've spent a bit of my free time over the past month taking part in photowalks organized by TC Lin for the lead up to the Tua-Tiu-Tiann International Festival of Arts (大稻埕國際藝術節) which is being held over the entire month of October in Taipei's historic Dadaocheng District.

The photowalks which were held on two separate occasions in August were attended by quite a few foreign and local photographers who walked through Dadaocheng chatting up a storm while taking photos at the same time. On our first walk, the light wasn't really that great for taking photos and we probably spent more time talking than actually taking photos. The second walk was almost ruined by a torrential downpour that we had to wait out for a while. 

As usual, it is always a good time whenever I can get together with other photographers but as usual I spent way too much time chatting and not enough time taking photos. 

To make up for the lack of shooting while on the photowalks, I decided to revisit the area on my own a few times to get some more shots that I could contribute to the festival. I also figured that while I was in the area and due to the fact that the weather has been amazing as of late that I'd also stop by the Dadaocheng Wharf to get some sunset shots which would more or less be a sequel to the Sunset at Dadaocheng Wharf post that I made last year.

I originally had another blog scheduled for today but due to some personal stuff that has been going on, I don't really feel like posting a blog about some of the interesting historic stuff that I usually post about - is it even interesting to you? I don't know.  

Instead, I felt like sharing something pretty that people could enjoy. They say that sunsets are proof that no matter what happens, every day can end beautifully. 

Dadaocheng Wharf

The Dadaocheng Wharf is a newly renovated and quite popular outdoor activity spot for the residents of Taipei. The long wharf has been integrated into the much longer bicycle path which spans almost the entire distance of the city and is a busy spot on weekends with various recreational events held throughout the year.

The wharf has played an important role in Taipei's history and helped fuel the early economic success of the city and that of the Dadaocheng area (which is now part of Datong District - 大同區).

The Dadaocheng area is well known for its specialization in the sale of textiles, tea, cotton, medicines and various other products that you're still able to find today on the popular Dihua shopping street.

The wharf became significant due to the fact that it was a more inland harbour for merchants to get their products both in and out of the city at a much quicker pace than from the original wharf near Danshui.

Much like a lot of other economically successful towns of the past, the merchant shopping area around Dadaocheng (which is considered to be "old" Taipei) has turned into somewhat of an "old street" where you can see the same type of "baroque" architecture that is prevalent in places like Daxi and Sanxia with merchants sell traditional products that aren't very easy to find.

The completion of Taiwan's railway system however sucked the life out of a lot of these towns as they lost their monopolies that depended on the transportation of goods via shipping. Because of this, businesses which made their fortune importing and exporting products by way of the river were thus forced to either adapt to their new realities, relocate or come up with new business ventures.

Today however, the Dihua Street Lunar New Year market has become a local tradition for the people of Taipei attracting over a million visitors a year in the weeks leading up to the holidays.

The market sells a lot of the same things you would have seen hundreds of years ago in the form of silks, textiles, traditional Chinese snacks, food and medicine and is still the best place Taipei to do your one stop shopping for traditional materials.

I've blogged in the past about the Dihua Street Lunar New Year market as well as the City God Temple (霞海城隍廟) Confucius Temple (台北孔廟), Bao-An Temple (保安宮) and Ningxia Night Market (寧夏夜市) which are all within Taipei's Datong District and are a short walking distance from each other.

Back to the wharf - while it may not look the same today as it did in the past but it is still functional and on weekends there are ferries that transport people between Taipei and Danshui on a regular basis. 

Apart from being a popular spot for recreational activities, it has become a popular place to view the sunset as the wharf faces the skyline of the Sanchong District (三重區) of New Taipei City. Sanchong is developing at a lightning pace due to the price of housing in Taipei city and the skyline is one that is constantly changing.

As the wharf faces the direction where the sun sets . it is one of Taipei's best places to view the sunset and you are likely to see hundreds of people showing up every night to enjoy the view.

The wharf is actually really pretty and catching the sunset there is quite nice, so if you're in the area around that time of the day, check it out. Also, if you're free in the month of October, make sure to check out some of the great events happening at the Tua-Tiu-Tiann International Festival of Arts - You might even see me hanging out around there. 


Gallery 

Hsinchu Lakeside Ryotei (湖畔料亭)

For the past year I’ve made it a bit of a personal project to search out, photograph and document the history of some of the remnants of Taiwan’s Japanese Colonial Era. In that time I’ve visited most of the remaining Martial Arts Halls, Shinto Shrines, some old dormitories and former communities.

One of the things that I’ve learned through all of this is that in the seventy years since the end of the occupation period (and even throughout Taiwan’s massive development), you’re still able to find evidence of the Japanese Colonial Era in almost every city and small village throughout this country - So its best to always keep your eyes open when you’re travelling around because you’re bound to find something interesting!

Although I’ve visited quite a few of the various buildings of cultural and religious influence left over from the Japanese Colonial Era, the place I’m posting about today is something completely new to me and is something I’ve yet to come across in my search for Colonial Era relics.

Of all the different types of buildings I’ve found so far I find it hard to believe that I’ve never actually ever wondered why I hadn’t yet found a restaurant. I guess the reason for this is because every where you go in Taiwan you're likely to find a multitude of Japanese restaurants that faithfully cover and pay respect to every region and style of Japanese cuisine. It never occurred to me that there might actually still be some traditional restaurants still in existence.

Ryōtei (料亭) 

Despite having so many great options for Japanese food in Taiwan, one type of restaurant that you’re not likely to find these days is a traditional Ryōtei (料亭), one of Japan's most traditional and luxurious dining experiences.

In Japanese, the word Ryōtei comes from the shortened word “ryōri” (りょうり/料理) which refers to cuisine and the word “tei” (亭) refers to a “pavilion” or an elegant residence. Basically a Ryōtei is a luxurious restaurant where guests dine in private rooms and are served by waitresses wearing kimono. Patrons in a Ryōtei are served a traditional set multi-course menu known as “kaiseki-ryōri” (懐石料理) that is known not only for its great taste but the great artistic care that is taken to prepare it.

In some cases a visit to a Ryōtei also includes the company of geisha who act as hostesses and provide live entertainment to the guests.

Traditionally, Ryōtei’s only accept new customers by referral and have the reputation as being exclusive “members-only” type places. This practice has changed in modern times but the restaurants are still a favourite among high-level businessmen and politicians who visit to have discreet meetings where they are able to woo prospective clients or to seal an important deal.

While preparing to write this blog I did a bit of research about Ryōtei in Taiwan during the Japanese Colonial Era but there wasn’t much information about their history available online. What I did find however is that there is one in Tainan City that has been restored and opened to the public as a museum of sorts and then another in Hsinchu City which has also been restored but thus far is not yet open to the public.

Hsinchu Park (新竹公園) is home to not only the historic Hsinchu Zoo, the Hsinchu Confucius Temple and the Hsinchu Glass Museum but also the beautiful Lakeside Ryotei (湖畔料亭) which I'll be introducing today.

The Lakeside Ryōtei, built on the banks of Li Lake (麗池) originally consisted of five separate buildings that varied in size. Visiting the restaurant would have been a complete experience that included the tranquility of the lake but also a beautifully designed park-like atmosphere with small foot bridges, lanterns and ponds with wildlife roaming the grounds.

Today you may not be able to enter the buildings (there are plans to open them in the future) or have one of the traditional meals inside but you can certainly enjoy the scenery as well as the various species of birds, turtles and fish which live in the lake area.

History / Design

Constructed in 1931 (昭和6年) and then expanded upon in 1935 (昭和10年) the restaurants were considered a 'garden-style recreation area' for the employees of Shinchiku Prefecture (新竹州) which consisted of modern-day Hsinchu, Taoyuan and Miaoli.

Each of the five buildings were constructed with traditional Japanese architecture using Taiwanese cypress (檜木) and have beautiful black tiled roofs. The buildings were elevated off of the ground using cement planks (in case of flooding) with traditional Japanese tatami floorboards. All of the buildings have a different design but the buildings that you will probably spend the most time looking at are the two that have windows on all four sides.

Taking into consideration that Hsinchu is well known historically for its glasswork (and the fact that Glass Museum is pretty much next door to these buildings) you shouldn’t be surprised that the glass displayed in these buildings is so spectacular. The craft work that went into their original construction as well as their restoration is quite amazing.

When the Colonial Era ended the buildings were left abandoned for a short time before being absorbed as part of the Air Force 8th Battalion’s nearby military village. The village known as the Air Force 11th Village (空中十一村) used the buildings as an elementary school as well as converting others into dormitories which were dubbed “Arhat Halls” (羅漢堂) in reference to the monk-like nature of the dorms which were set up to house single pilots who had no dependents.

Unfortunately as is the fate of almost all of Taiwan’s military villages, most of the people who lived in the Air Force 11th Village ultimately relocated and the buildings were left abandoned. In the late 1990’s one of the original buildings burnt down leaving only four remaining albeit in rough shape.

When the Hsinchu City Government made plans to convert a nearby Japanese-era building into the Hsinchu Glass Museum (新竹市立玻璃工藝博物館) local civic groups pushed for the Ryōtei buildings to also be restored and put to good use rather than allowing them to continue to rot.

The plans to restore these buildings and put them to good use is an ongoing one and while the public cannot currently enter the buildings yet, the city government has plans to complete their restoration and allow for them to once again be enjoyed by the people of Taiwan.

So far it seems like each of the buildings will have a different theme for exhibitions which will be organized under the auspices of the Glass Museum which will bring these beautiful buildings back to life.

Getting There

If you are relying on public transportation to get to the Hsinchu Park, you are in luck as it is quite close to the Hsinchu Train Station as well as the Bus Station.

If you are travelling by train just exit Hsinchu Station from the rear exit (後站) and from there either walk to the park or take a Youbike. The walk should be no more than five minutes but each time I’ve visited I’ve taken a bike as there is a bike station directly across from the park’s entrance. The directions to the park are clearly marked on the road in both Chinese and English so its not likely that you’ll get lost. 

While you’re visiting be sure to check out the various species of local birds as well as the turtles and fish which make their home in the beautiful lake. Make sure to walk around the historic park and check out some of the other interesting sights which include the Hsinchu Confucius Temple, the Glass Museum, the Hsinchu Zoo and the weekend flower market.

 

The Lakeside Ryōtei have a storied history dating back well over eight decades and during that time have served many different purposes. The future looks quite bright for these beautiful Japanese-style buildings. If you are a fan of Japanese architecture be sure to check out this peaceful park - especially during the early months of the year when the sakura blossoms are in full bloom which transports you from a small park in Hsinchu to something you’d expect to see in Japan!