Hsinchu

Hsinhsing Theatre (新興老戲院)

I went on an urban exploration day trip with my friend and fellow photographer/blogger Alexander Synaptic last week. The resulting trip will likely end up producing more than a few blogs and quite a few photos between us as we visited several locations and enjoyed a beautiful day in Hsinchu. 

Near the end of the day we decided to stop in the small village of Hsinpu (新埔), known mostly for Yimin Temple (義民廟) and its Hakka culture and cuisine. I stopped at Yimin Temple to ask some questions for my Pigs of God blog and also showed Alexander around a bit as it was his first visit to the temple which is extremely important to the Hakka people of Taiwan. 

After visiting the temple we decided to drive into the downtown area of the village on our way back to Taoyuan and do a bit of a photo walk to see what cool things could find as well as going for some of the food that Hsinpu is so famous for.

Alexander had wanted to visit Hsinpu for a while because he had heard about an old abandoned theatre called the "Hsinpu Theatre" (新埔戲院) but we were saddened to find out when we arrived that it had been recently demolished and replaced by an ugly high-rise apartment building. 

The street that we were on however was once referred to as "entertainment street" which meant that there was probably some kind of 'entertainment' elsewhere on the street at some point.

Where the screen would have been

A quick walk down the street brought us to a suspicious-looking building that ended up also being an abandoned theatre. Despite not finding our original target we found something that neither of us had known about and ended up being pretty much the kind of thing we were looking for. 

While there isn't much information available online about this abandoned building, we found out that it was named Hsinhsing Theatre (新興戲院). Thanks to the assistance of public records, we also found out that the theatre, which is more or less empty today, was originally registered as a business in 1956 and ultimately went out of business sixty-one years later at the turn of the century. 

When the theatre went out of business, the building was then used as a make-shift karaoke bar for a period of time but that seems to have been a short-lived business venture and today the beautiful old theatre sits abandoned and is used by neighbours as a place to keep their dogs tied up and to store a bunch of garbage. 

If you want to know more about the theatre you're going to have to visit Alexander's well-written and well-researched blog post about it - He's a master of urban exploration and this kind of thing is really his domain. I'm just here to share my photos from the theatre here. Enjoy! 

Xinxing Theater 新興戲院

While the theatre wasn't a secret, it wasn't really on the radar of Urban Explorers before Alexander and I posted blogs and photos about it online. Since then the theatre has been visited quite a few times by other urban explorers which gives me a bit of a reason to update this post with not only newer photos, but some additional information and a bit of a rant. 

When Alexander and I first visited the theatre, the biggest problem was the dogs which were tied up on the first floor - and who didn't really appreciate us invading their space. On my second visit to the theatre however the dogs weren't around, but there was something else that bothered me. 

One of the mottos that Urban Explorers live by is this - "Take nothing by pictures, leave nothing but footprints". This simple phrase describes the goal of urban exploration, which brings explorers to abandoned buildings, factories, hospitals, schools, etc. so that they can "explore, discover and photograph buildings and constructions created by human beings in the forgotten spaces of civilization." (link

Alexander and I knew that there was a projection room on the second floor of this building. We wanted to get inside of it to see what secrets we could find. There was however a deadbolt on the door, so following the rules of urban exploration, we just tried to peek in through one of the windows. 

After we posted the blogs and photos however, some other people, who apparently don't bother with the rules decided to cut the deadbolt and open the door to the projection room. Now that the projection room was open, I decided to go in and see and was quite surprised to find that there was still some stuff left, which included parts of the old projectors, chemicals and old film. 

It was nice to be able to gain access to the room, but it also bothered me that someone would break down the door. The other thing that bothered me was that the so-called "Urban Explorers" who visited after Alexander and I also left a bunch of garbage. I noticed that there were 35mm film-containers and packages on the ground, a broken camera tripod, etc. 

If the point is just to take photos and document the theatre why leave so much garbage? Why ruin this exploration for others? I realize that not everybody follows the same standards, but its the people who do these things that ruin it for others. The theatre may be easily accessible now, but sooner or later the neighbours might just get tired of people showing up and eventually just start calling the police. Thats unfortunate. If you want to visit a place like this and want to try your hand at urban exploration, try to be responsible.  


Gallery /Flickr (High Res Shots)

Hsinchu City God Inspection (新竹城隍廟遶境)

While you’ll find places of worship dedicated to so-called the “City God” all over Taiwan, the Hsinchu City God Temple (新竹都城隍廟) is regarded more or less as the king of them all.

Like Hsinchu itself, the temple has a long history and over the years it has assumed the role of ‘spiritual headquarters’ for the other ninety-five temples dedicated to the deity throughout the country.

The City God, also known as Cheng Huang Ye (城隍爺) is an interesting figure in Chinese Folk Religion and is an important god in the hierarchy of deities within the religion - especially here in Taiwan.

Literally the “Lord of Walls and Moats”, the City God performs the role of a spiritual magistrate and acts as a medium between the real-world and the ‘otherworldly’ bureaucracy.

This is something that will become much more obvious as you read on.

While it would be easy to liken the City God’s role to a modern-day mayor of a city, his role is a much more traditional one that is similar to what a bureaucrat in ancient China would have performed.

Not only is he responsible for order and stability within his realm, it’s also important for him to ensure that justice be swiftly carried out while also offering protection and material benefits to his constituents.

Link: City God (Wiki) | Cheng Huang (Britannica)

To carry out his duties, the City God comes complete with a court, divine officials, judges, generals soldiers to help ensure that his will is done.

If you have a keen eye and know a bit about this stuff, you’ll notice that quite a few of these figures are common in Taiwan’s temples and aren’t always exclusive to the City God.

Most notably, General Fan and General Hsieh (范謝將軍), General Han and General Lu (韓盧將軍), Ox-Head and Horse-Face Generals (牛馬將軍), the Eight Infernal Generals (八家將) and the Lock and Cangue Generals (枷鎖將軍), among others.

Link: Chenghuang—City God, Judge, and Underworld Official (Digital Taiwan)

While it may seem cliche to say this, the importance of the City God and his court is Confucian in nature and his worship is representative of ancient Chinese philosophical notions of political ideology and urban development.

To explain, worship of the City God is thought to have started sometime during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) in the early 14th Century. At that time, cities in China and other countries in the region were commonly walled-communities with large guarded gates. Coincidentally, the original urban design of Hsinchu itself was no different and you can still find one of the gates, Yingximen (竹塹城迎曦門), otherwise known as the East Gate, near the City God Temple.

The City God in his Palanquin

The purpose of the gates was obviously for practical security purposes, but also demarcated the physical perimeter of towns and cities in addition to the spiritual area, which the City God (as well as his human counterparts) were expected to reign over.

Each of the ninety-five City God temples in Taiwan “presides” over an administrative region of the country, which could be anything from a small village, town, city, county or off-shore island.

Interestingly, a few centuries ago, these temples would have been (somewhat) off-limits to the general public with only local government officials allowed to visit. Today though, things are quite different and people all over Taiwan visit regularly to pray and make offerings to the City God and those in his court.

They also come to pay respects to his wife, who is well known for her exceptional match-making skills! 

To that effect, when you enter a City God temple, the design is supposed to mimic that of what you’d find in a traditional Chinese-style palace with the City God sitting on a throne and each of the members of the court having their own office (shrine) to perform their duties.

When interpreting City God worship, its important to take into consideration that traditional and contemporary folk religion in Taiwan tend to differ slightly. For many of the reasons listed above, the City God has performed a divine role as a unifying figure for a specific geographic location, kind of like a sports team does for a lot of people.

His worship has also helped to enforce the notion of bureaucratic hierarchy and devotion to ones community and country. More importantly though, of the long list of deities from Taoism and Chinese Folk Religion, he has always considered to be the most loyal and just of them all and is meant to serve as a role model for any who take up public office.

All of this tends to be reinforced by the company that he keeps as many of the more well-known members of his court are known for their adherence to personal sacrifice, loyalty, justice and honour.

A much-needed Supau break!

The modern approach to the City God in Taiwan though is one that takes into account many of the attributes listed above but goes even further into making the City God somewhat of a divine superhero who is capable of performing miracles and assisting local people with whatever problems life might throw at them.

Essentially the City God has become a multi-purpose deity who not only provides peace and protection to his constituents, but is also the go-to deity for any problems that you might have. This is important because if you haven’t noticed already, Taiwanese pride themselves on convenience - so if you have a deity that is able to help solve any issue you may have, it’ll end up saving you some time.

So if for example you were a farmer with health problems whose crops were being stolen, instead of visiting the Land God (福德正神), the Baosheng Emperor (保生大帝) and the Lord of Grains (神農), you could just visit the City God.

Makes sense right?

It goes without saying that worship of Mazu (媽祖) and the Earth God are probably much more prevalent in contemporary life in Taiwan, but the City God is still one of the most important deities here and thus the festivals in his honour are some of the largest temple festivals on the yearly calendar and this one in Hsinchu is the largest!

Now that we have all of that out of the way. Let’s talk about the festival!

The schedule of interesting cultural and religious events during Taiwan’s annual month-long Ghost Month Festival is a long one, but one of the highlights is always the three-day long Hsinchu City God Inspection.

During these three days, the city comes alive with events that pretty much shut down the downtown of the city while gods parade through through the streets with a constant barrage of fireworks and fire-crackers.

The event starts on July 13th (of the Lunar Calendar) and lasts until the final night on July 15th when the City God leaves his temples and goes on an inspection tour of the city.

  • July 13th - Night Patrol (查夜暗訪,祈福平安)

  • July 15th - City God Inspection (城隍威巡,遶境賑孤)

A quick note:

This may confuse some people, but July 15th on the Lunar Calendar just so happens to be an important day within the schedule of events during Ghost Month (中元節) as it marks the middle of the month-long celebrations. On this day, all around Taiwan people place offerings outside their homes and businesses as a show of compassion for the ‘hungry ghosts’ (餓鬼), who are regarded as people who have died without a family to worship them.

While the ‘Pudu’ (中元普渡) celebrations take place all over Taiwan, as well as in Hsinchu, the City God Inspection is an event that can be considered to be “part” of the celebrations, but is something that is exclusive only to Hsinchu, which is a tradition in the city that goes back a few centuries.

The Spirit Medium / Oracle (乩童)

For those of you who like myself have a difficult time keeping track of events on the Lunar Calendar, you should start preparing for this event sometime near the end of August or the beginning of September.

If you do have a hard time, I recommend bookmarking this website, which should help you keep track of what is happening at the different times of the year in Taiwan.

Link: Taiwan Religious Culture Map (台灣宗教文化地圖)

This event is similar to a lot of other temple festivals in Taiwan but more so comparable to what happens during the Qingshan King Inspection tour (青山靈安尊王) of Wanhua district in Taipei.

Although there are quite a few differences, the atmosphere is just as electric and the parade that ensues throughout the city is one of those Taiwanese cultural events that should definitely be seen at least once!

On the first day of the festival, several ceremonies take place before the son of the City God leaves the temple in his palanquin with torch-carrying believers following through the route that will be taken two days later.

The reason why it’s important that the son checks out the route beforehand is that it is especially important during Ghost Month that the route is ‘safe’ for the City God to leave his throne-room.

To ensure that no angry ghosts are lurking around the route, the City God’s son is accompanied by members of the court as well as torch-carrying believers who parade through the streets on a “night patrol” (查夜暗訪) making lots of noise to announce their arrival and scare away anyone or anything that could cause a problem.

On July 15th, the day of the inspection, temples from throughout the country form a traditional parade and come to Hsinchu to pay respect to the City God. This parade is something that starts early in the afternoon and goes on well into the night.

If you’re reading this and wondering why City God statues from temples around the country come to pay respect to the Hsinchu City God, you’re probably not alone.

They are after-all all statues of the same god aren’t they?

To explain it simply, there is a hierarchy of importance when it comes to these statues - The Hsinchu City God is (unofficially) considered to be the emperor of them all and the statues from minor temples are thought to derive their spiritual power from it, which is why they have to visit and pay their respect.

As I mentioned above, when a major deity like the City God comes out of their temple for an inspection, there will always be an entourage traveling with them. In this case, there is the "night patrol" on the first night of the event that scares away any evil or ghosts which may be hiding in the area. Then when the god starts its inspection, another large parade is formed to help ensure security.

The entourage is probably my favourite part of these inspection tours as they usually include the Eight Generals (八家將), the First Officers (官將首) and the Infernal Generals (大仙尪仔) in addition to others dressed up in robes beating gongs, lighting fire crackers and generally causing about as much noise pollution as possible.

Link: Eight Generals (Wiki) | The Eight Generals and the Neimen Songjiang Battle Ritual (TaiwanEverything)

The night of the inspection is considered to be the liveliest time of the year in Hsinchu City and attracts thousands of spectators and believers from all over the country.

Hsinchu has changed a lot since the early days of this festival and as it has developed into one of Taiwan’s most modern cities, the annual City God Inspection has likewise followed suit.

These days you’ll find a masterful medley of modernity and tradition on display at the event which helps make the event accessible to everyone with the usage of large screens, live feeds and the internet.

To that effect, this year a large covered stage was set up in the public square next to the City God Temple where the god accepted visitors from various temples around the country. This allowed for a smooth flow of pedestrian traffic and saved quite a bit of time. It was also helpful for those who wanted to take part in the event as the space was large enough for people to line the streets.

Likewise, there was a live stream of the event on large screens set up throughout the city as well as on the internet.

One of the most interesting modern additions was the usage of an electric fire-cracker box that simulates the sound of firecrackers, but doesn’t pollute the air in the same way actual firecrackers do - something that I hope catches on with temples all over the country.

That being said, the downtown core of Hsinchu is notorious for its terrible traffic and even though traffic control measures were put into place in the area where the inspection was taking place, it was still kind of a mess with traffic backed up for quite a long time while various portions of the parade were visiting other local temples.

If you’ve read this far, I think I should probably mention that this is a much-needed update to the original City God Inspection post that I made several years ago. This time around I’ve added more in-depth information about the festival as well as some new photos.

When I first attended the City God Inspection several years ago, I did so with my good friend and fellow blogger Alexander Synaptic (website / instagram) who did some visual story-telling through his social media accounts while I took photos. This time around, when I arrived in Hsinchu, Alexander had already been there for a few days touring Hsinchu and documenting the early stages of the festival. It was great to once again walk around and enjoy ourselves during this important cultural event.

Before we met up though, I spent a few hours on the coast of Hsinchu taking photos of the Xiangshan Wetlands and the Xiangshan Train Station for some upcoming articles.

When I arrived in the city, I quickly made my way to the parade route and started taking photos of some of the early processions around town. When I came across a group of Eight Generals (八家將) from Tainan’s Xianwei Hall (府城玄威堂), who came up to Hsinchu for the day to perform and pay their respects to the City God, I spent quite a bit of time following them and taking portraits.

As time goes by, I hope to be able to continue attending this festival and likewise posting future updates to this blog. If you have any questions, feel free to get in touch and I’ll try to help out. Likewise, some of the information about is open to interpretation. If you think I could have explained something better, don’t hesitate to let me know!


Yuan-Yang Valley Waterfalls (鴛鴦谷)

The Yuan-Yang Valley (鴛鴦谷) is set within a National Forest Recreation (國家森林遊樂園) area and is rich in hiking trails, beautiful waterfalls and rivers. The park is just outside of an Atayal Indigenous village in Hsinchu's mountainous and extremely picturesque Jianshi village (尖石鄉). The valley is a short, yet beautiful drive from Neiwan (內灣) and is close to a popular camping ground situated within the small indigenous village.

There is a lot to do within this forest park, but I'm going to focus on a few of the waterfalls found within and post only photos of them. The park has several hiking trails and while the spectacular waterfalls might be the major attraction, there is still a lot for me to explore in this area and I'm eager to get back to hike some of the trails within. 

From the entrance to the park, the waterfalls are a short hike up a paved mountain trail from a trailhead that is just past the village. The trailhead is blocked for cars, but you can easily get a scooter in and drive up to the falls if you're feeling lazy.

The two main waterfalls are not very far from each other but oddly there is a sign along the path that indicates the entrance to a waterfall for one and not the other. This trail is developed quite well while the trail to other requires a bit of bravery to get to it. If you haven't come prepared for a hike (or River trace) it might be best to skip the much larger waterfall and keep hiking towards the second which is on a safer path.

To get to the first waterfall on the trail you have to have a keen eye and watch the road as someone has spray painted in red ink "Waterfall #1" (瀑布1) on the road with arrows pointing to a small path that goes directly off the road. The marker is easy to miss because the road is often covered in foliage. I completely missed it the first time, but truthfully the first time I visited I had no idea that there was more than one set of falls.

Waterfall #1 has several tiers and the water you're likely to see flowing down the falls isn't like what you'll see at the other set however the sheer height of the falls and the fact that it has several tiers makes it much more beautiful than the other set. I estimate that it is about 40 meters tall making it considerably larger than Waterfall #2.

It isn't that easy to get very close to Waterfall #1 and it seems like it is best viewed from a distance. If you plan on getting close to it, you're going to have to have river tracing shoes and be prepared for wet, slippery rocks that are dangerous. It's possible to get up close and personal with it, unfortunately the day that I went it called for rain and as I was crossing the river it started, so I didn't try to climb up on the rocks. 

Waterfall #2 is about a one hundred meter hike from the trailhead to the first set and sits on a much more developed trail than the other. No ropes are necessary and it is a short two minute walk from the road to the falls. When you arrive at the falls you come up to a viewing platform where you can see the falls from a distance.

There are warning signs that swimming is not permitted and I'm not going to recommend you go for a swim, but I'm pretty sure I would have if I wasn't carrying a bunch of photo equipment with me. To get to the base of the falls you need to be really careful and jump over the rail at the viewing platform to walk down a small hill. I have to say that if you choose to check out the falls at base level or go for a swim that high you have to be really careful and make sure you're wearing proper footwear. It's not likely that your cellphone will have service in the area so if an accident happens you're not in the best situation.

Apart from the two major waterfalls within the park, there are actually several waterfalls within the valley and while heading back to the trailhead I noticed serval more large sets of falls in the distance on the other side of the mountain. I'd really love to find out if there are any river tracing groups that are familiar with the area because there is so much more to see than these two sets of falls. 

I find that these waterfalls (and the forest park as a whole) are under-appreciated and not many people visit them, so I hope that if you're in the area you should definitely check them out. The valley is beautiful and there is some pretty awesome scenery to be found within the park. 

If you like camping there are great campgrounds in the indigenous village near the falls and if you know anything about Taiwan's indigenous peoples you're sure to have a great time if you hang out with them for a weekend!

The drive to the waterfalls through Jianshi is absolutely beautiful and it's only about a 20 minute drive past Neiwan. There is lots to do in the area so if you're looking for a great day trip you might want to start with these falls then check out some locations in Jianshi and then end the day in Neiwan for some dinner on the old street.

For GPS location and similar info check out these links:

Taiwan Waterfalls - Yuan Yang Valley

Follow Xiaofei - Yuan Yang Valley Waterfalls