Hsinpu

Hakka Dried Persimmons (柿餅)

This October marked the five year anniversary of this modest little space on the web.

Things have changed quite a bit around here since I first opened this site and I’ve ended up learning quite a bit in the process, but what has always stayed the same is my dedication to introducing Taiwan to people who want to learn about and travel to this beautiful country.

From the outset, it wasn’t actually my plan to make this blog such an important part of what I do here, but things kind of took a life of their own and here I am five years later writing about a bunch of places and things that most people think are weird.

Coincidentally at a recent event I was working at, a journalist approached me and after introducing myself she said: “Oh, you’re that guy that posts all those weird and wonderful blogs!”

To which I could only just smile and nod.

The point of the site was always to provide a space for my photography - Writing was never my area of expertise (and its never going to be), but I do make an effort not to completely make a fool out of myself.

So, now that its been half a decade since I posted my first blog, I’d like to thank all of you who have frequently visited and I hope you’ve benefitted from my experience.

I also hope you’ve enjoyed my photos at the same time.

Looking back, the very first blog I posted on here was about the traditional Hakka practice of drying persimmons in the sun in the mountains of Hsinchu County. I’ve been visiting this quaint little persimmon farm in Hsinpu, the cultural heartland for the Hakka people of Taiwan, for well over a decade and is a yearly tradition that never grows old.

The traditional drying practice, which relies on placing fruit and vegetables around two meters above the ground on a network of bamboo poles was once a yearly activity for a lot of local families, but as is the case with a lot of cultural traditions, has been slowly dying off.

Thankfully the good people at the Wei Wei Jia Persimmon Tourist Farm (新埔的味衛佳柿餅觀光農場) have not only successfully preserved the traditional drying process, they’ve also ensured that it is picturesque which attracts people from all over Taiwan who visit each year to take photos, learn a bit about Hakka culture and of course purchase some dried persimmons.

To learn more about the Persimmon Farm, click the link below.

Link: Hsinpu Dried Persimmons (新埔柿餅)

Even though I’ve visited well over a dozen times, I always make sure to bring my camera along with me each and every time I visit this beautiful farm - This ensures that I’m always going to have something new to share and will be able to keep people updated about what’s happening.

The drying process is one of those cultural traditions that makes for really pretty photos and the colour of the sun shining on the persimmons is something that should make your camera quite happy.

I will admit though that I’m not really a big fan of eating dried persimmons.

As one does though, I always make sure to buy a few boxes each time I visit to share with friends and co-workers.

This year, instead of regurgitating a bunch of information I’ve already provided, I’m just going to post a collection of photos from my most recent visit for you to enjoy.

I also recommend checking out my off-site Dried Persimmon Flickr Gallery which has the entire collection of photos that I have posted from the many years I’ve visited!

Link: Hsinpu Dried Persimmons (Flickr)

If you haven’t visited Hsinpu yet, I’d highly recommend checking it out.

The small village is jam-packed with Hakka history, amazing Hakka cuisine and these persimmons!  

Hsinpu Links: Baozhong Yimin Temple | Hsinpu Hakka Ancestral Shrines | Wu Zhuo Liu Memorial Home

Hsinpu Ancestral Shrines (新埔宗祠)

I’ve probably mentioned this about a hundred times already but for the last decade I’ve been a resident of a small city in Taoyuan named Zhongli (中壢). The city is one of those special places in Taiwan that is well-known for its preservation of Hakka culture and the availability of amazing Hakka cuisine. 

Recently the local city government decided to start putting up signage around the town with the nickname the “Hakka Capital of Taiwan” which was an obvious shout-out to the people who have developed the city into the place it is today.

Like a lot of other towns and villages in the Taoyuan-Hsinchu-Miaoli area (桃竹苗), the population of Zhongli is made up predominantly of Hakka ethnic group and walking around these places you’ll likely hear a mixture of Mandarin, Hakka and Taiwanese from the locals.

While the population of the city is now a bit more diverse, the culture and history of the Hakka people remains prevalent on almost every street corner and that history is celebrated and promoted by all the people who live here.

Even though Zhongli refers to itself as the Hakka “capital” of the nation, Hsinpu village (新埔鎮) in Hsinchu would probably best be referred to as the “Hakka Mecca of Taiwan” thanks to the all-important Yimin Temple. The small village is one of the most important places in the country in terms of Hakka history, culture, cuisine and religion and has been instrumental in helping the Hakka people form their own identity over the last few centuries.

Hsinpu has experienced a revitalization over the past few years thanks to the cultural preservation efforts of the government and everywhere you go you can see the past coming back to life again - Whether you are visiting for some great food or to learn about the history of this amazing culture, Hsinpu is one of the best places to visit and has quite a few attractions for the savvy traveller.

Hsinpu LinksYimin Temple  (褒忠義民廟) | Wu Zhuo-Liu Memorial House (吳濁流故居) | Hsinpu Dried Persimmons | Hsin-Hsing Theater

Today’s post is going to focus on some of the historic Ancestral Halls that you’ll find in the downtown core of the village. These halls, which are also known as shrines (祠堂) or temples (宗祠) are closely linked to Confucian ideology and place an emphasis on filial piety. Although their main purpose is for ancestral worship, they also provide a place for family get togethers and various events throughout the year.

The most common feature of Ancestral Shrines that transcend all of the Chinese ethnic-groups are the ancestral tablets (神位) in the main shrine room. Family members will visit several times a year to honour their ancestors, take part in rituals as well as whenever a wedding or a funeral takes place.

You’ll find Ancestral Halls like this dedicated to a specifically family all over Taiwan but the reason why the halls in Hsinpu are of particular interest is because of the history of the town and that they represent most of the families who first settled the area several centuries ago.

This post will unfortunately have to be one that will be updated gradually over time because the halls are in varying states of disrepair and are currently being restored. There is also the issue that while these ancestral halls are national historic monuments, they are not always open to the public which makes them a bit difficult to take photos of.

As there are seven of these shrines in the village, I’ll provide photos for most of them but I won’t be going into too much detail about their history apart from when they were constructed and how accessible they are to the public. Most of this information isn’t available online in English so I’ll do my best to help make this stuff a bit clearer to travellers.

Chen Family Ancestral Shrine (新埔陳氏宗祠)

The Chen Family Shrine is situated directly on the Main Street of Hsinpu Village and dates back to 1868. The shrine is currently in the process of being restored but is one of the few that is accessible to the public. The shrine is looks as if it is in good shape from the outside but the wooden planks in the interior of the shrine had started to rot and were causing structural problems which forced the shrine to close for a period of time.

The building is quite beautiful with artwork on the walls, doors and the roof and a tree-covered courtyard between the shrine and the main gate.

When the restoration project is completed it will reopen and you’ll be able to stop in for a visit between Tuesday and Saturday. (Closed for family gatherings on Sundays and Mondays).

The shrine is considered a county-level historic site (縣定古蹟).

Address: 新竹縣新埔鎮中正路510號 (中文介紹)

Zhang Family Ancestral Shrine (新埔張氏家廟)

The Zhang Family Ancestral Shrine is probably in the worst shape of all of the ancestral shrines in Hsinpu today. The shrine which dates back to 1868 is currently undergoing a process of large scale restoration and is inaccessible to the public.

This kind of thing however rarely stops me and I wandered on site to check out the shrine. After a few minutes of walking around the construction site the foreman called out to me and I figured I was going to get kicked out but instead got a free tour of grounds. Despite the fact that the shrine is in terrible shape, he said that it would likely reopen to the public sometime in 2018. Currently the shrine is empty and the spirit tablets have been moved elsewhere for safe-keeping.

The shrine is considered a country-level historic site (縣定古蹟)

Address: 新竹縣新埔鎮和平街347巷22號 (中文介紹)

Liu Family Ancestral Shrine (新埔劉家祠)

The Liu Family Ancestral Shrine is currently the only shrine in town that has been fully restored and is accessible to the public. The shrine is open between Tuesdays and Saturdays and has both information available in English and Chinese to visitors.

The Liu Family Ancestral Shrine dates back to 1867 and as it is the one that is most accessible to the public and in the best shape you’ll be able to enter the grounds and walk around. The things to notice with this shrine is the incredibly preserved artwork on the walls as well as the wooden craftsmanship on the roof and the trusses that hold it up.

The shrine is considered a county-level historic site (縣定古蹟)

Address: 新竹縣新埔鎮和平街230號 (中文介紹)

Pan Family Ancestral Shrine (新埔潘屋)

The Pan Family Ancestral Shrine dates back to 1861 and from the outside looks to be in relatively good shape. The shrine is not accessible to the public however and the best you can do is look at it from a distance.

The shrine is next door to the Liu Family Shrine but instead of being next to the road, it has a large front lawn between the main gate and the shrine which is actually quite rare in Taiwan.

The shrine is considered a county-level historic site (縣定古蹟)

Address: 新竹縣新埔鎮和平街170號 (中文介紹)

Chu Family Ancestral Shrine (新埔朱氏家廟)

The Chu Family Ancestral Shrine was constructed in 1846 and is currently being restored. The shrine is the smallest of the seven and looks as if there is a family living on-site. The shrine isn’t open to the public and the best you can do is check it out from the gate outside.

I’m not sure how long the restoration process will take but the metal canopy that was constructed over the shrine to protect it from the elements likely means that there is an issue with the roof and the structure itself.

Address: 新竹縣新埔鎮和平街158號 (中文介紹)

Lin Family Ancestral Shrine (新埔林氏家廟)

The Lin Family Ancestral Shrine is the newest of all of the shrines in town and also in the best shape. Dating back to 1917 the shrine is the most colourful and most beautifully decorated of the shrines.

The shrine is somewhat open to the public, but to gain entry you have to first make an appointment to be let in meaning that unless you plan ahead you won’t be able to gain access. If you visit however you can see enough of the shrine to appreciate it from the front gate.

The shrine is considered a county-level historic site (縣定古蹟)

Address: 新竹縣新埔鎮成功街136巷16號 (中文介紹)

Fan Family Ancestral Shrine (新埔范氏家廟)

The Fan Family Ancestral Shrine dates back to 1860 and is currently undergoing a process of restoration. The shrine is currently inaccessible to the public and when the restoration process is complete, it will only be accessible by family members. This shrine is the most difficult of all the shrines to get photos of which is why I don’t have anything to show at this point. I hope that I’ll be able to get something in the future though.

The shrine is considered a county-level historic site (縣定古蹟)

Address: 新竹縣新埔鎮成功街116-7號 (中文介紹)

As mentioned above, this post is just meant to be a general introduction to some of these historic buildings. I plan to update periodically with both new photos and information as the restoration processes of the various shrines are completed over the next year or two. The history of these buildings as I’ve also discovered deserve a bit more attention to detail than what I’ve been able to write in this post, so I will probably write individual articles for some of the shrines in the future.


Wu Zhuo-Liu Memorial Home (吳濁流故居)

The historic residence of one of Taiwan’s leading modern literary figures, Wu Zhuo-Liu (吳濁流) recently opened to the public after the Hsinchu government both restored and renovated the traditional Hakka-style home into a memorial museum for the iconic author.

The house which is located in Hsinchu’s Hsinpu township (新埔鎮) offers visitors a glimpse into the life of the man who authored several influential novels and helped to shape the notion of a distinct identity for the people of Formosa that wasn’t “Chinese” or “Japanese” but solely Taiwanese.

Before we start, I'm going to be honest - I had no idea that this house was the home of someone as historically significant as Wu Zhuo-Liu nor did I even know who he was - I just passed by and saw the words "Memorial Hall" (紀念堂) next to a beautiful old home and decided to check it out. 

Later, when I started to do research for this blog however I quickly found out that I was walking around the home of a giant of modern Taiwanese history and a person who I was absolutely sure that I would like.

Mr. Wu was not only an advocate of a separate Taiwanese identity but described for the world the history and harsh reality that the people of Taiwan have had to face for the past several centuries. 

After learning a bit about the man and his life, I knew that his books had to be added to my collection and I went out right away and bought an English version of his "Orphan of Asia" (currently reading) and a Chinese version of "Fig Tree" (無花果).  

I'm only halfway through the first book, but I can tell you that I'm extremely happy that in my ignorance I happened upon this Memorial Home as it helped me learn more about the struggle the Taiwanese people have endured for hundreds of years up until today.  

Wu Zhuo-Liu (吳濁流)

Wu Zhuo-Liu (吳濁流) was born as Wu Jintian (吳建田) in 1900 just a few short years after the Japanese Colonial Era began. Mr. Wu, a Hakka from Hsinchu’s Hsinpu Village grew up in Japanese occupied Taiwan and despite hailing from a family of farmers, received a formal education in the Japanese Education system. 

As an educated man Wu spent much of the first part of his life teaching in the Primary School system. At the age of 41 he quit his highly respected job as a teacher and took a job as a reporter in China where he spent fifteen months in Nanjing (At that time the capital of China) writing about the war that had enveloped the nation.

When Wu returned to Taiwan in 1943 he continued working as a journalist and also started to write novels and short stories based on his, and the experiences of his fellow Taiwanese people. In 1945 he penned what would become his most famous work titled the “Orphan of Asia” (亞細亞的孤兒) which highlighted the ambiguity felt in the hearts of Taiwanese as to their conflicting sense of identity and is a book that even today people can still relate to.

In 1968, Wu published his memoirs, an autobiographical look at life during the Japanese Colonial Era and then the Republic of China era. The book continued with the themes of his growing political conscious and search for identity. Both realistic and politically charged, its description of the events of the 228 Massacre and the repressive nature of the Chinese Nationalists who controlled Taiwan with an iron fist were enough to earn it a swift ban by the authorities due to the fact that discussing such things was taboo at the time.

Unfortunately Wu died in 1976 and at the age of 76 and was ultimately unable to see the lifting of Martial Law or the end of the repressive White Terror period which he had endured for much of his life. His contribution and his courage however are widely respected today in Taiwan and his books are a constant reminder of the tension the Taiwanese people have had to endure over the last century with regard to who they really are. 

History and Design

Thanks to the efforts of the Hsinchu City Bureau of Cultural Affairs (新竹市文化局), the Wu Zhuo-Liu Memorial House (吳濁流故居) recently re-opened to the public after several years of renovation and restoration. 

This memorial house is but one of the historic homes of Hsinpu village that has been restored (or is in the process of being restored) and opened to the public over recent years. Hsinpu Village has become an extremely important place for the Hakka people of Taiwan thanks to its wealth of cultural history and more importantly due to the fact that Yimin Temple (義民廟), the Mecca for the Hakka people is situated within the village.

In conjunction with the Hsinchu City Bureau of Cultural Affairs and the Hakka Affairs Council (客家委員會) the village has been revitalized in recent years and the promotion of Hakka culture, cuisine and history has made it as important location for the people of Taiwan to travel to learn about the nations history.

Hsinpu has several historic ancestral homes that are quite similar to the Wu Zhuo-Liu Memorial House and if you’re interested in Taiwanese history, Hakka history or viewing the beautiful Hakka architecture of the past, a day-trip to Hsinpu will not only allow you to view some of these historic homes but also allow you to enjoy some amazing Hakka culture and cuisine at the same time.

Some of the other historic houses in the village include:

  1. Chen Family Ancestral Home (新埔陳氏宗祠)
  2. Chang Family Ancestral Home (新埔張氏宗祠)
  3. Liu Family Ancestral Home (新埔劉祠)
  4. Pan Family Ancestral Home (新埔潘屋)
  5. Chu Family Ancestral Home (新埔朱氏家廟)
  6. Lin Family Ancestral Home (新埔林氏家廟)
  7. Fan Family Ancestral Home (新埔范氏家廟)

*There isn't a lot of information available in English about these beautiful ancestral homes, but I'll be making a post about them in the coming weeks to explain them in a little more detail. 

The Wu Zhuo-Liu Memorial House (like most of the houses listed above) is a traditional style Hakka “sanheyuan” (三合院) courtyard style home that is most identifiable by it’s “U” shaped design. The house was constructed sometime around 1840 and was the home where Wu Zhuo-Liu grew up and also where the rest of his family has lived and farmed up until recently.  

Sanheyuan-style homes were very common in Taiwan before the Japanese Colonial Era and are often still quite prevalent throughout the countrysides of Taiwan. The problem for these older buildings is that the majority of them have become dilapidated over the years and in most cases have been abandoned or are being demolished in favour of a more modern style home. Preserving them can often be a bit difficult due to the humidity of Taiwan and the amount of earthquakes that rock the island. 

Link: Hsinpu Ancestral Shrine (Already demolished)

The Wu Family Ancestral Shrine

The two longer wings of a sanheyuan are known as the “Hu-Long” or the “protecting dragons” (護龍) and is where you would find the bedrooms, living rooms, kitchens, dining rooms, etc. The main section of the building that connects to the two wings is sometimes translated into English as the “Inner Protector” (內籠) but is also what I usually refer to as the “Ancestral Hall” (室德堂) in these Hakka-style homes. In truth it is a bit difficult to literally translate what “室德堂” means into English but in simple terms it is the central part of the home where you’d find not only the main entrance to the house but also the ancestral shrine which meets you at the front door.

Ceramic Tile on the roof. 

While these courtyard-style homes are prevalent throughout Taiwan and not unique to Hakka culture, one of the things that differentiates a Hakka home from some of the others is the ornate decorations on the roof and exterior walls. If you visit this home (or any of the others in Hsinpu), be sure to pay attention to the beautiful ceramic designs on the roof and the awnings which have been beautifully re-coloured and restored during the restoration process.

Now that the home is open to the public, the rooms have been emptied and displays have been set up which not only introduce the life of Wu Zhuo-Liu and his family but also the function of each room. There are displays in the kitchens that help teach the people of today as to how people in 1840s Taiwan lived. The displays and exhibits set up within the house are non-intrusive and allow people to learn about the home in a way that doesn’t involve too much modern technology.

If you visit you should also make sure to tour the surrounding grounds of the building and check out the historic trail nearby where you’ll find a nice little lake as well as beautiful Taiwanese cypress trees and also a bit of nostalgia for an old Canadian like myself - Maple trees!

Getting there

Getting to the Wu Zhuo-Liu Memorial Home can be a bit difficult if you don’t have your own means of transportation. Unlike some of the other homes I mentioned above, this one is not situated within the downtown area of Hsinpu village. The home is on the road that connects Hsinpu Village (新埔) in Hsinchu County with Longtan Village (龍潭) in Taoyuan.

There is a bus that connects both villages but it only runs three times each day and you’re likely to get stuck waiting by a rice paddy for a few hours if you choose this option.

If you absolutely have to rely on public transportation I would recommend taking a train or bus to Jhudong (竹東) and from there transferring to a bus that takes you into the downtown area of Hsinpu village and then hiring a taxi.

There are quite a few cool things that you can see while walking around the downtown core of Hsinpu, so I recommend a stop by the historic town to check out some of the historic mansions, temples and of course to eat some Hakka flat noodles (客家粄條).

 

 Address: #10, Jupu Village. Hsinpu Township, Hsinchu (新竹縣新埔鎮巨埔里五鄰大茅埔10號)

The recent renovation and restoration of the iconic author’s family home is not only an attractive destination for lovers of Taiwanese literature, but also those who respect the contribution Mr. Wu made to help promote the idea of Taiwanese identity to the world.

The subjects of his books dealt with topics that were quite sensitive when they came out but stand up to the test of time and still help the Taiwanese of today understand their history and why they should be proud to be Taiwanese.

The house is beautiful and walking around a traditional home like this can also teach people what life was like in Taiwan before all these modern high rise buildings were constructed. If you are in the area, I recommend a visit and think that a walk around the property can be a great learning experience.


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Shots)