Landscape

Neidong Forest Park (內洞森林遊樂區)

The Neidong National Forest Recreation Park (內洞國家森林遊樂區) is somewhat of a hidden gem - overshadowed by its neighbour Wulai with its hot spring resorts, giant waterfall and "old street." 

The forest park is about a ten minute drive past the village of Wulai further into the mountains and the reason why its stayed 'somewhat' of a hidden gem is because without your own method of transportation in and out of the park, its not easy to reach as there are no public transportation options available. 

The forest park has a short and easy hike that would be ideal for those who aren't looking for an extreme challenge. The area is beautiful and you can easily enjoy an afternoon getting lost inside. 

The hike takes about half an hour (at my pace) from start to finish and the main attraction is clearly the waterfalls and for me, walking along the beautiful emerald Nanshi river (南勢溪) that supplies hot spring water to the village below. 

The Forest Recreation park is very popular with bug chasers and those interested in the ecological aspects of the local environment. Unfortunately during my visit I didn't come across any - I would have liked to have an expert point out some cool looking insects as I’ve heard that there are lots of butterflies, scarab beetles and wild monkeys living throughout the park. 

Wusha Creek Waterfall

As soon as you pass the gates to enter the park you almost automatically come up to the Wusha Creek Waterfall (烏紗溪瀑布) which is on the opposite side of the river - but there is an excellent view from an observation deck.

Its a nice waterfall, but as you had to pass the massive Wulai Waterfall to get to the park, its not that impressive in comparison. I noticed most people didn't spend a lot of time looking at it.  

Luohao Dam

Further along the path you come across the Luohao Dam (羅好水壩) which seems somewhat out of place in such a natural surrounding, but I’m guessing its purpose is to keep the village below from being constantly flooded. The dam itself ruins a bit of the “Forest Park” atmosphere, but in the right light you can get its reflection off of the beautiful emerald coloured water which make its nuisance a little easier to handle. 

The emerald green water of the Nanshi River

After passing the dam you need to walk about five more minutes until you come up to the main attraction which is a three-tiered waterfall commonly known in English as the “Neidong” waterfall but actually named the Xinxian Waterfall (信賢瀑布). The path to the waterfall is well developed and there is a viewing platform at each tier of the waterfall. 

Something strange that I noticed in the park was its accessibility for the disabled. You won't find many areas in Taiwan, especially ones in the mountains that are accessible for the disabled. They seemed to take great care to allow for those in wheelchairs to be able to have access to this park to enjoy the environment. 

For logistical purposes however if you're in a wheelchair you can only go as far as the bottom tier of the waterfall, the other two tiers aren't accessible as you have to climb a hill. Nevertheless I saw quite a few people in wheelchairs enjoying the bottom tier of the waterfall and in my opinion, that's great. 

The lowest tier of the Xinxian waterfall

The bottom tier and the top tier of the waterfall have wooden observatory platforms and they are extremely difficult to take long-exposure shots on as the platform constantly shakes.

I had my camera set up on a tripod attempting to take thirty-second exposures, but it was more or less impossible as there were a few families there with their children who were running around, stomping their feet and having a good time. 

The second tier of the Xinxian Waterfall

The second tier of the waterfall can only be viewed from a distance, but at least at this tier you are on the side of the mountain with stable ground. (No shaking) 

The Xinxian Waterfall may not be as big as some of the other waterfalls around northern Taiwan, but its setting is what makes it special. The three tiers are beautiful and the volcanic hot spring water that flows from it is amazing. 

The top tier of the Xinxian Waterfall

The Neidong National Forest Recreation Park is well worth a visit and if you are visiting the Wulai area, I highly recommend taking a short drive past the resort area and taking the hour or so long hike to see the waterfalls and enjoy the more natural aspects to the area. 

Its very easy to get to Neidong Forest Park. If you are driving a car, before entering the Wulai area make a right turn and cross the bridge. There is adequate signage in both English and Chinese that will follow a route behind the Wulai waterfall and further into the mountains. You reach a small village and turn left. From there cross another small bridge and make a right turn which will bring you to the main gate. 


Map / Location

 

Guanyin Mountain (觀音山)

- The Yinghanling Trail to the peak of Guanyin Mountain

Guanyin Mountain (觀音山) is a 616 meter tall extinct volcanic mountain in New Taipei City that is ecologically diverse and has excellent panoramic views of the Danshui River as well as the Taiwan Strait. The mountain is commonly frequented by hikers, bird watchers and families enjoying their weekend.

It was named after the Buddha of Compassion who in Chinese-speaking countries such as Taiwan, China, Singapore and Malaysia is a female Buddha known as Guanyin (觀音).

There’s an old saying in Taiwan that if you look at Guanyin Mountain from the Danshui side of the river that it looks like the Buddha Guanyin lying down. Personally, I don’t see it, but in Taiwan, you will come across many places where imaginative people who have partaken of just the right amount of rice wine have seen images in rocks that they think look like something else.

I’m exaggerating of course, but there are quite a few tourist spots in this country where you will be told that a certain rock looks like something else and your neck will hurt from trying to see the resemblance. 

- Looking towards a hazy Taipei from the peak of Guanyin Mountain

There are over nine different trails available for hiking on this mountain and each trail is well maintained and they are all relatively easy to navigate as well as hike. The trail I took on this specific occasion was the Ying Han Ling trail (硬漢嶺步道) or the “Tough Guy Peak” which was named because it was used in the past for military training exercises. I found out quickly why it was called the “Tough Guy Peak” because right from the start of the trail, it's all very steep stairs and is pretty hard on the legs going up.

At all trailheads in Taiwan you will be see a sign that tells you that it will take a certain amount of time to complete the hike. As a general rule when I see these signs at a trailhead, I divide the time by at least half or three quarters as I think they measure time on these trails by how quickly senior citizens move.

- The bridge connecting Taipei city to Bali and Wugu 

The weather in Taipei is notoriously hazy during the Autumn and Winter months and the available light for photographers isn’t the best, so even though the forecast wasn’t calling for rain, we knew that when we reached the top of the peak, it wasn’t likely that we would have a great view.

The Ying Han Ling peak is renowned for giving excellent panoramic views of Taipei City as well as the northern coast and the Taiwan strait. Of all the peaks I’ve been on in Taipei, its one of the most scenic and probably less photographed than some of the others. 

- A small park devoted to the Buddha Guanyin

After we finished the hike we had a bit of extra time, so we drove over to check out a little park dedicated to Guanyin. There wasn't much there other than the statues and another trail heading down to a temple. So we didn't stick around very long and made our way back to Taoyuan. 

I enjoyed my time on this hike and I will definitely try to go back on a sunny day to get more shots on the peak as well as trying some of the other trails.

This hike was extremely easy, the trails are well developed and their are lights following the trails if you happen to stay later or want to get night shots of the city. Anyone can do this hike and you don't need anything special to do it other than a bottle of water and a camera. 


And now for a bit of a rant.. 

- An abandoned pet on Guanyin Mountain

I try not to complain too much or present a negative view of the country I love when I blog, but there is one thing I want to talk about with regards to Guanyin Mountain: 

This is a mountain, its not a dumping ground for your unwanted pets.

Seeing dogs on a mountain is a common sight in Taiwan, but I don’t think I’ve hiked a mountain in the Taipei area where I’ve seen so many abandoned and extremely human-friendly dogs.

An old habit among Taiwanese is that when a pet suddenly become a burden, they are loaded up into a car and then dropped off at a mountain. Guanyin mountain seems to be Taipei’s biggest recipient of such irresponsible behaviour. There isn’t much for these dogs to live on in such an area and they all suffer from hunger and often injuries that will never be taken care of. 

Becoming a pet owner is a commitment for at least 10-15 years. If you’re not sure that you can commit that amount of time to a pet, you shouldn’t take one into your home just so that you can abandon it when it becomes a burden.

Next time I go to Guanyin Mountain to hike, I’ll be sure to carry one or two less lenses and a sufficient amount of dog food to feed the poor animals that were helplessly thrust upon the mountain. 

Map / Location

 

Gallery / Flickr (High Res Photos) 

Xiao Wulai Waterfall (小烏來瀑布)

Xiao Wulai Waterfall from the start of the hiking trail

Xiao Wulai (小烏來) or "Little Wulai" is a scenic waterfall park in the mountains of Taoyuan (桃園) in Taiwan that features several large waterfalls, hiking paths, hot springs, and the opportunity to experience a bit of Taiwan's Indigenous culture. 

The area is often confused with the Wulai District (烏來區) of New Taipei City (新北市). The Wulai area in New Taipei City also has a giant waterfall, but its more well-known for its hot springs resort area where people like to go to enjoy a nice hot volcanic bath during the cold winter months. 

Both areas are inhabited predominately by the Atayal tribe (泰雅族) one of the largest of the Indigenous groups in Taiwan. In the Atayal language, both areas were known as “Ulay” (Kiluh-ulay) which referred to the volcanic hot springs found in each.

Coincidentally “Kiluh-Ulay” translated into English loosely means “Be careful, the water is hot.” (小心水很燙) 

When the Nationalist Government took control of the island, both areas names became known as “Wulai” (烏來) which was transliterated from the Atayal language into Mandarin.

Xiao Wulai likely became known as "Little Wulai" at the time because the waterfall in New Taipei City is much higher (but not nearly as beautiful as Xiao Wulai)  

I’ve usually visit the park at least once a year and have explored the area many times. Its not a short drive from where I live, but its a beautiful drive that takes you away from the noise, commotion and pollution of the city through the Daxi river valley and up into the Indigenous village of Fuxing (復興鄉) where the air is clean, the water is fresh and the pace of life is much slower. (And during the summer months, you can find peaches everywhere.) 

If you continue driving past the Xiao Wulai park the road eventually takes you across the Fuxing bridge up into Baling (巴陵) and across the famous Northern Cross Highway (北部橫貫公路) which is well known for its mountain views and ultimately brings to you back down into Yilan county (宜蘭縣) on the eastern coast of Taiwan. 

- The walking path to Xiao Wulai Waterfall's base.

Each time I’ve visited the park there have been constant noticeable changes. The county government has been investing a lot in the area over the years trying to make “Xiao Wulai” a popular tourist destination. I have to admit that my first few visits were the best when the area wasn’t developed very well. There was a simple hiking path that would take you to the base of the falls and other paths that would take you around the falls and behind it to the Dragon-Phoenix Waterfall (龍鳳瀑布).

During these earlier visits there was easy access to the the base of the falls, but for obvious safety reasons there are now barricades stopping people from getting too close (as it would be too dangerous to have a bunch of tourists trying to navigate around a bunch of wet rocks and a giant waterfall.) 

The good news for the majority of tourists is that the government has recently invested almost $8 million New Taiwan Dollars ($250,000 USD) into the construction of a skywalk that allows tourists to walk on a transparent glass floor that is very close to the top of the falls and 70 meters above the base. This was a major tourist attraction when it first opened and the lines were huge. I hadn't actually tried walking across the skywalk until my most recent visit and even then I wasn't particularly interested (which is why there are no pictures of it.)  

As an avid hiker and nature photographer, I’m not particularly interested in that kind of tourist trap and I’d much prefer to take the short and very easy one hour hike from the falls observatory down to the base and enjoy the mountain air and scenery away from the crowds. 

- Under the viewing bridge at the base of Xiao Wulai

Since the completion of the skywalk and due to its popularity, the majority of people visiting the park will make their way in that direction. The well-developed pathway to the base of the waterfalls is relatively empty - So once you arrive at the falls, if you are so inclined, it is easy to climb under the bridge and get a bit of a closer view of the falls.

You do need to exercise caution though. The river running from the base of the falls can flow quite quickly, especially during the rainy season and rocks are often wet from the rain and the constant mist, so its very easy to slip. You’re no where near a hospital and should anything serious happen, you’d be out of luck. 

The Xiao Wulai Waterfall is one of the biggest and said to be one of the most beautiful waterfalls in northern Taiwan. It is considered special because you can see it from close up and from a distance due its location in a clearing in the mountain.

There is a constant heavy flow of water from the waterfall during both the rainy season and the summer months so any time you visit you’ll have no problem enjoying the natural beauty of the area. 

From the base of the falls you can make your way back up to the trailhead or go back to take another path which will lead you around the mountain and ultimately behind the falls to where they are currently constructing a new pathway and observatory for the Dragon-Phoenix Waterfalls. (Often incorrectly named the Double-Dragon waterfalls) It wasn’t possible during this visit for me to get to see both layers of the Dragon and the Phoenix waterfalls because the top layer was closed due to construction.

- Xiao Wulai Waterfall from the base (小烏來瀑布)

The area around Wulai has developed quite a lot over the years and there are now restaurants, coffee shops and vendors selling food as well. There are new hotels opening in the village near the falls and you can also enjoy some swimming areas during the summer months.

If you do visit Xiao Wulai, you need to make sure to sample some Indigenous food which if you ask me, is probably one of the best styles of food found in Taiwan. The area is well known for its mushrooms, so be sure to try some deep-fried mushrooms, some wild boar, rice baked in a bamboo shoot and any of the awesome mountain vegetables that you won’t find on tables anywhere else in the country!

- Dragon Pheonix Waterfall (龍鳳瀑布)


Getting There

 

No. 3 National Highway (國道三號) -> Dasi Interchange (大溪交流道) -> Dasi (大溪) -> Fuxing (復興) -> No. 7 Provincial Highway (台7線) -> Xiayun Bridge (霞雲橋) -> Xiao Wulai Scenic Area (小烏來風景區)

By Scooter/Motorcycle

From Taoyuan (桃園) or Zhongli (中壢)make your way to Dasi (大溪) -> Fuxing (復興) -> No. 7 Provincial Highway (台7線) -> Xiayun Bridge (霞雲橋) -> Xiao Wulai Scenic Area (小烏來風景區)

Gallery / Flickr (High Res Shots)