Landscape

Hsiang-Tian Lake (向天湖)

A week or so ago my friends and I went on an all-expense paid day-trip to Miaoli which had us relaxing and chatting on a nice comfy bus all the way to Nanzhuang village (南庄) - a popular tourist spot with a Hakka old street and the ancestral home of the Say-Siyat indigenous people (賽夏族)

We started the day learning about Say-Siyat culture at a museum dedicated to the tribe and their history, then enjoyed some time at a mountain-top lake before heading down to have dinner at a Hakka restaurant and then making our way to the Nanzhuang Old Street. Today's post won't be about all of that though, it's just going to be a short one about Hsiang-Tian Lake, one of the destinations on the trip.

Hsiang-Tian Lake (向天湖) which is also known in Hakka as "Yang-Tian Lake" (仰天湖) is a small lake on a mountain at an elevation of 738 meters above sea level. The rare mountain-top lake is surrounded by mountains and due to its elevation is often foggy or misty which makes it appear mysterious. The water in the lake has an odd green tint to it and the colour of the trees surrounding the lake change with the seasons. The lake is thus a popular tourist site and because of that coffee shops, small restaurants and stalls have been set up around it to cater to tourists.

Hundreds of years ago the lake was actually much larger and deeper than it is today - however due to some erosion that took place on the Great East River (大東河) tributary, some of the water receded and land appeared where there was originally water. This new land became an important area for the indigenous tribe to make their homes due to the fertile soil and next to a water source. 

Today, the lake continues to be an important place for the Say-Siyat people and is home to their largest tribe. There is a museum near the lake that chronicles the history of the indigenous group and their culture. Near the lake and the museum there is a large field that holds a festival every two years (as well as a larger one every ten years) called the "Bas-ta'ai" or "The Sacrifice to the Short Spirits" (矮靈祭) which is a three-day festival that has a lot of activities, great food and traditional dancing to honour the "short spirits" at the end of the yearly harvest.

The photos of the lake that I'm posting today were taken with the idea that I would make an attempt to honour what the Sai-Siyat people respected it for - the reflection of the sky. Most of the shots are 10-20 second exposures taken with a wide-angle lens and they capture pretty much the entire width of the lake with the reflection of the mountains and trees near behind it.

The beauty of the lake depends on the season you visit and it seems like most people are greeted by fog and mist. I was lucky on the day we went to have a somewhat clear day, but I was greedy and hoping for a day with blue skies! I hope that when the next "Bas-ta'ai" festival happens that I can visit again and that the weather will be better!

If you have any questions or comments don't be afraid to comment below.

Yoshino Cherry Blossoms (吉野櫻)

It's sakura season here in Taiwan and the blossoms are currently blooming all over the country! In my last post about the Taiwan Cherry Blossoms (山櫻花) I posted about a type of cherry blossom that is endemic to Taiwan. Today I'm going to post about an imported variety of cherry blossom that comes from Japan and is probably the much more popular version. 

Taiwan has a few different types of cherry blossoms which bloom between February and April every year - The type of sakura I'm posting about today are known as "Yoshino Cherries" (吉野櫻) and are probably the most well-loved of all the species of cherry blossoms in Taiwan. 

During this time of the year, it is normal to see your Taiwanese friends posting photos on social media from Japan where they go to specifically see the blossoms while others visit hot spots like Alishan (阿里山), Yangming Mountain (陽明山), Wuling Farm (武陵農場) and Danshui's Tian-Yuan Temple (天元宮) to see them taking part in a tradition known as "flower viewing" (花見).  

As spring rolls around in Taiwan we are lucky to have a few different types of cherry blossoms, but also Peach Blossoms (桃花), Tung Blossoms (油桐花) and Taiwan's national flower the Plum Blossom (梅花) all of which create a lot of tourism for places where the blossoms are growing for this type of flower viewing. 

Each type of blossom has a specific purpose - Tung Blossoms are known as "Hakka flowers" and are said to represent Hakka culture while plum blossoms are the "official" flower of Taiwan and it is common to see them depicted on all sorts of government emblems as well as on the New Taiwan Dollar, the currency of Taiwan. 

Cherry blossoms on the other hand are important to Taiwan not only because of their beauty but because of Taiwan's close relationship with Japan and Japanese culture. The culture of "Hanami" (花見) which is a traditional Japanese custom of flower viewing and respecting their beauty is an activity that is just as popular in Taiwan with people of all ages as it is in Japan. This is why people travel all around the country and in some cases even travel to Japan to take part in a custom that is shared and widely respected by people in both nations. 

Yoshino Cherry Blossoms (吉野櫻) 

There are debates as to the origin of the Yoshino Cherry, but they are believed to have originated in the Yoshino district (吉野郡) of Nara which is where they get their name. The trees are mostly ornamental and are loved for their fragrant light-pink blossoms and the manageable size of the tree.

In Japan, the trees were thought to represent clouds and thus represented the impermanent nature of life, a Buddhist concept known in Japan as "Mono no Aware" (物の哀れ) which is translated as "an empathy towards things." This concept is a reflection of the Japanese people's awareness for the reality of life and how all things, even beautiful things will eventually come to an end. 

The trees started to be imported to Taiwan during the Japanese-colonial period between 1895-1945 and from that time on the Japanese appreciation of cherry blossoms was appropriated as part of Taiwan's cultural heritage. Taiwan and Japan share a lot of cultural similarities due to the colonial period and even though that period ended over 70 years ago and isn't looked upon as an entirely positive experience, the people of Taiwan and Japan share a lot of respect for each other and Taiwan's development wouldn't have been so successful if it weren't for Japan's influence. 

That appreciation was put on display after the devastating 2011 Tohuku earthquake (東北地方太平洋沖地震) where Taiwan became the country which donated the most amount of money and resources to help those affected by the earthquake and the tsunami that followed. The generosity of the Taiwanese people didn't go unnoticed and as part of their appreciation, Japan took out a full page ad in Taiwan's UDN newspaper thanking the people of the country for their solidarity and generosity during such a devastating experience. 

It was fitting that the ad displayed not only the Japanese people's gratitude for their friend and neighbour but also a cherry blossom which displayed the closeness and solidarity of the two cultures.  

The sakura shots I'm posting today were all taken on Yangming Mountain in Taipei and I focused on the blossoms rather than landscapes. In technical terms most of the shots were taken with an aperture of f/2.8 meaning that the subject will be in focus while the backgrounds will be blurred causing an effect photographers refer to as "bokeh" and is only really achievable with certain types of lenses.

I thought that as I had posted last year landscape shots of these sakura at Tian-Yuan Temple that this year I would instead focus on the cherry blossoms themselves and let people enjoy the photos in a different way. 

If you are in Taiwan or Japan right now, it is the best time of the year to view these blossoms. If you have time make sure to use it to get out and see them. The people at Round Taiwan Round published an excellent guide of where people can see them, so check it out and enjoy one of Taiwan's most beautiful flower seasons! 

If you have any questions or comments feel free to comment below or get in touch with me in the contact section below!


Teapot Mountain (無耳茶壺山)

Teapot Mountain (無耳茶壺山) is a popular trail on the North East Coast of the country that has some of the best landscapes available for a day-hike in northern Taiwan - The hike is neither long nor difficult which means it is accessible to hikers of all skill levels with the reward of exceptionally beautiful scenery which your spark an interest in taking up hiking as a hobby!

The hike is near Jinguashi (金瓜石) and the popular tourist street in Jiufen (九份老街) which is not very far out of Taipei city. The difficulty of the hike depends on your method of transportation - If you are riding a scooter or driving a car, you can be lazy and pretty much drive all the way up, shaving an hour or so of walking up stairs. If you are relying on public transportation however you need to start with a walk through Jinguashi's Gold Ecological Museum (黃金博物館) and follow the markers that indicate where the mountain trail starts.

 

Once you've arrived at the trailhead it isn't a very long hike up to the "Teapot" and most people have no trouble arriving in less than 30 minutes. The trail consists of a set of well-constructed stairs that lead you up to the peak of the mountain and then from there, further on to Banping Mountain (半屏山) if you're doing the full hike. The hike isn't a steep one and there is a very gradual incline making it easy for anyone to complete.

After a short time of hiking and enjoying the amazing scenery, you'll arrive at a rest stop that overlooks a beautiful cliff on one side and the teapot on the other. For some people, the rest stop acts as the "peak" of the mountain as they can see the scenery on the North Coast and they are close-enough to the teapot to say that they were there.

If you've lived in Taiwan long enough, you might have noticed that Taiwanese people are really gifted at looking at rocks and seeing images in them. In most cases I shake my head and say "Umm okay", but in the case of the "Teapot", it actually does look like one! The mountain is called "無耳茶壺山" which translates as "Earless Teapot Mountain" and refers to the fact that the tip of the mountain looks like a teapot, without an "ear" or a handle.

The teapot is accessible by an easy system of ropes and if you are careful, you can climb inside it and make your way to the top to get even better views of the amazing landscape of the North East Coast (東北角.) Experienced hikers will find this part of the hike extremely easy, but I can understand how for some people it can be a bit scary - I highly recommend trying though as you've already made it that far.

From the top of the Teapot you will have some pretty spectacular views of Jiufen, Jinguashi, Jilong Mountain (雞籠山), the Yin Yang Sea (陰陽海) and the North East Coast. If you are visiting on a sunny and clear day you'll be able to see as far as Keelung and you might even be able to see Taipei 101 sneaking it's head up over some of the other mountains. If you're planning on doing this hike, make sure you choose a day that will have excellent weather as the hike rewards you with stunning landscapes. The area is actually known for its rain, so make sure to pay attention to the weather forecast before making your way to the mountain.

As I mention earlier, this hike is part of a much longer hike and if you are hiking past Teapot Mountain onto the Banping Mountain (半屏山) trail you should be warned that the hike past Teapot mountain is much more difficult and shouldn't be taken lightly - especially if the weather isn't very good. That being said, if your plan is to do the entire hike (something I can say I haven't done yet) then you should be prepared for a full day-hike rather than just an easy day-hike.

If you are planning a trip to the area and you are relying on public transportation, your options might be limited, but if you have access to your own method of transportation you may want to consider some of the other tourist attractions which include the Golden Waterfall (黃金瀑布), Jiufen Old Street, the Yin Yang Sea, etc. There is a wealth of things to do in the area, so if you are only doing the Teapot Mountain hike you can be sure to finish the hike with a nice cup of tea in Jiufen overlooking the beautiful ocean below.

If you are visiting Taiwan from abroad and want to experience the natural beauty of this island, it's highly recommended that you plan both a trip to this mountain and finish it off with a visit to Jiufen. If you are unsure that you're able to get to the mountain on your own, the guys at Taiwan Adventures are available for guided tours and will plan all the logistics for you.

All in all the hike is an easy one and the reward outweighs the amount of time it takes you to get there. Coupled with the fact that you are easily able to include other activities in the area making it a full-day tourist excursion from the city makes it even better. I know it's not a popular guidebook destination, but any visit to Jiufen should include a hike to Teapot Mountain!

Taiwan Adventures - Teapot Mountain


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Shots)