New Taipei City

Guandu Temple (關渡宮)

I have had the photos for this blog uploaded and ready to go for well over nine months, but I sat on it and kept pushing the it back in order to stay on top of other stuff. I suppose though that I might have just been leaving it for just the right time as over the next few weeks I plan on posting about a few really cool Taiwanese temples that have a lot of historical significance. 

The first temple I'll be introducing is Taipei’s Guandu Temple (關渡宮) which like a lot of Taiwanese temples is dedicated to several gods with a main shrine dedicated to the goddess Matsu (or Mazu 媽祖.)  

The temple is situated in Taipei's Beitou district (北投區) which is more famously known for its geo-thermal hot-springs. The temple is easily accessible by Taipei’s MRT system via Guandu Station (關渡站) on the Tamsui line (淡水線) and a short walk from the station on a road lined with lanterns guiding your way. 

Thousand-Arm Guanyin

Thousand-Arm Guanyin

Thousand-Arm Guanyin

Guandu is popular with Taipei residents as it is along the Danshui River and has not only the popular temple, but also the Riverside bicycle path and the Guandu Nature Park (關渡自然公園) which is quite popular with nature lovers and wildlife photographers. 

The temple itself, originally named Lingshen Temple (靈山廟) has a history dating back to 1661, although the temple didn’t actually begin construction until somewhere around 1712 when a Buddhist monk traveled from China bringing with him a golden statue of the goddess Matzu.

The original temple was quite modest compared to what you see today, but due to the wealth of the immigrants who lived in the area, and because most of their income came from transporting goods by sea, it made sense to pool some of their wealth and build a more spectacular temple along the banks of the Danshui River dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea.

Walking around the temple grounds. 

Walking around the temple grounds. 

Since then, the temple has been renovated and expanded upon several times over its over 350 year history making it currently the one of the largest and oldest Matsu temples in the northern area of the country. 

As mentioned above, the main shrine of the temple is dedicated to the goddess Matsu, which is a folk-religion deity, but the temple was originally founded by a Buddhist monk. The temple has several shrines and there are several floors and buildings that surround the main temple which are dedicated to other folk-religion deities as well as different Buddha’s including Guanyin (觀音), Ksitigarbha (藥師佛) and Shakyamuni (釋迦佛.) 

Guanyin Shrine. 

Buddha Shrine

One of the interesting things about the temple is that it is built into the side of a small mountain. The mountain has a cave which has been converted into a pathway that brings you to another beautiful shrine. The walkway is eighty meters long and has statues against the walls which depict the 28 heavenly emperors. The walk through the cave is really cool and whenever I visit the temple, I find that I spend quite a bit of time walking through it looking at the murals on the wall. 

At the end of the hallway there is another shrine room which I think is probably one of my favourite shrines in all of Taiwan which has a giant shiny bronze statue of the thousand armed Guanyin that has incredible detail. The room set up around the statue is small and the detail on the walls is spectacular. There is a small balcony on a cliff in front of the shrine that overlooks the river and is a nice place to relax for a few minutes.  

Cave

Murals on the wall of the cave

If you climb the stairs behind the temple, there is a park on Mount Ling that has a cool overlook of the the river and a view of the back of the very large temple that looks towards Taipei city with Taipei 101 in the distance. The park has Sakura trees that are in bloom in winter and if you show up at the right time, you'll be able to see the temple as well as the sakura. 

I’m not going to go into great detail about all the shrines at the temple or the superstition and miracles that people believe makes it such an important place. If you visit the temple there is an excellent information brochure (in English, Japanese and Chinese) which introduces the temple, it's history and all the shrines inside. I recommend picking it up when you visit and checking it out. 

I love Taiwanese temples and the art and craftsmanship that goes into building them – but I'm not a fan of perpetuating stories of superstition and miracles. So even though other blogs might tell some spectacular stories about things that have happened in the past, I'll let you get that information from them. 

Guandu Temple is really one of the best examples of temple architecture in Taipei and it has a long history making it one of the most important religious structures in northern Taiwan. If you are visiting for a short time, I know all the guide books recommend visiting Longshan Temple (龍山寺) but I highly recommend you make time to visit this one as it is just a important historically and if you are interested in the craftsmanship and artistic side of things, this one is going to appeal to you more than the massive crowds at other popular temples. 


Dabao River (大豹溪)

Taiwan and neighbouring countries have the unfortunate luck of being prime destinations for pacific ocean typhoons during the summer months. When Typhoons strike we always breathe a collective sigh of relief in the aftermath that the mayhem wasn’t as bad as it could have been, and in most cases if we don’t lose electricity or water service we’re even happier. 

The country is an almost perfectly formed island with the Central Mountain Range (中央山脈) separating the east from the west with the mountains forming a natural barrier saving the most populous areas of the country from the worst effects of powerful Pacific ocean typhoons. 

What a lot of people fail to realize however is that when a typhoon attacks, it does a lot of damage to the mountains, rivers, hiking trails and roads in the area. For Indigenous villages, typhoons pose a great threat to not only the safety of their homes but also their livelihoods as well. For mountain and nature lovers like myself, the destruction in the mountains caused by these typhoons means that certain trails will be closed for long periods of time and the landscape in some cases can be changed completely. 

After shooting Manyueyuan (滿月圓) a few weeks back, I thought it would be a good idea to go to the popular Dabao river (大豹溪) and get some shots to share with people. The Dabao River forms in the park from a few water sources higher in the mountains but it flows all the way down into Sanxia. These days the river is a popular spot for escaping the heat of the summer as people will go and swim in the cool mountain streams. 

Typhoon Soudelor (蘇迪勒颱風) had its way with Taiwan the weekend after I visited Manyueyuan and it did considerable damage around the country (including my place losing power for over 52 hours) and pretty much shut down Manyueyuan for a few months due to the damage as well as washing out a lot of the roads in the area leading up to the park. 

Click here to learn more about Typhoon Soudelor and the damage it caused.

I thought that I'd wait a few weeks after the typhoon left for things to go back to normal before heading back up again to get some shots of the beautiful Dabao River. I love the drive from my place through Daxi and then into Sanxia and up into the mountains. Its a relaxing drive and once you get into the mountains the air feels so much better than it does while driving in the city. 

Unfortunately it seems I didn't wait long enough and the river was still reeling from the devastating effects of the typhoon. The roads up to Manyueyuan were still in really bad shape, some were completely washed out and others simply just disappeared and had some safety tape up letting motorists know they were about to drive off a cliff. 

The river was still full of dirt and sediment that washed down from the mountains and it turned the once clean and almost emerald green water a gross cloudy shade of green which pretty much stayed the same colour from the start of the river all the way down to the bottom. 

Qingshui Bridge (清水橋)

Bridge

In the areas where I got close enough to the river (a lot of places were off-limits due to the damage), the water looked really dirty and there was garbage strewn about making it look like it was just another polluted river rather than a beautiful mountain river with fresh, clean water for both swimming and drinking.

I did the best I could photo-wise to make the shots of the river look good, but honestly this is going to have to be a ‘to be continued’ sort of blog as I want to show the river in its fully glory when it gets back to normal.

What you're seeing today isn't indicative of the beauty of the Dabao River and I'm posting this to remind people that even though you got through the typhoon safely, there was still millions of dollars worth of damage done and in some places the landscape of this beautiful little island has been changed forever.  

Until next time. 


Golden Waterfall (黃金瀑布)

The Golden Waterfall (黃金瀑布) is a really cool waterfall near the popular tourist village Jiufen (九份) and the Gold Ecological Park (黃金博物館.) 

The waterfall isn't very big, but it is quite attractive ecologically speaking and if you follow the river downstream it ultimately runs off into the ocean in an area popularly known as the Yin-Yang Sea (陰陽海) 

The North East Coast of Taiwan is a beautiful drive with the Pacific Ocean on one side of the road and mountains rising high above on the other. The area near the Golden Waterfall is known as Jinguashi (金瓜石) and was an important area for gold mining during the Japanese occupation. Today there isn't any more gold to be found but there are some pretty cool ruins of the abandoned gold mining factory.  

For years, people thought that the Golden Waterfall and the Yin Yang Sea that the waterfall runs off into were results of rampant pollution due to the mining activity in the area. There is also a debate online within both Taiwanese and Expat circles as to whether the Golden Waterfall is actually a product of pollution and environmental degradation.

I've done a bit of research into the subject from Chinese sites and it seems that within last few decades it was discovered that this phenomenon is natural to the area and it has been this way for thousands of years – long before mining started. Although I wouldn't go so far to say that the pollution caused by the mining hasn't had disastrous effects on the environment nor would I go as far to drink the water.  

The soil in the area is sulphurous which gives the soil the red-like colour that you see in the photos. The colour of the soil and the green mountains behind it give the waterfall it's golden colour and thus its name. The amount of water flowing from the falls varies based on recent rainfall, but the area receives quite a bit of rain, so you're not likely to see a dried up waterfall if you decide to make a visit.

What you see today is a result of not only the sulphurous soil but also hundreds if not thousands of years of weathering and SCIENCE..

Although I'm completely open to debate on this one. 

When I first visited the waterfall years and years ago it was a lot different from what you see today. Back then you could easily climb down a small path and walk all over the place getting some really cool shots and selfies (although selfies weren't a thing at the time) of the waterfall.  

In the years since then however the New Taipei City government had to develop the area in order to protect the natural environment from being destroyed and for the safety of the loads of tour bus tourists (from a specific country) who have a tendency to attract certain types of completely-avoidable tragedies. Guard rails have been put up and there is now a viewing platform making it impossible to get too up close and personal with the waterfall. 

The waterfall is a short drive from either the North East Coast highway or a bus ride from Jiufen to Jinguashi. You don't need a lot of time to visit the waterfall, so if you plan on visiting, make sure you have a means of transportation to either take you back up to Jiufen or just walk back down to the highway and grab a bus back to Keelung. 

If you are planning a day-trip to the Gold Museum and Jiufen, make sure to include the Golden Waterfall as part of your activities. They're all relatively close and are all completely doable if you get an early enough start on the day! 


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