New Taipei City

Nanya Rocks (南雅奇石)

Nanya, otherwise known as "Nanya Peculiar Rocks" (南雅奇石) is considered the 'gateway' to the North East Coast (北海岸) which happens to be one of the most beautiful drives in Taiwan. The drive along the coast features some of Taiwan's most iconic beauty with the Pacific Ocean on one side and giant mountains that seem to rise out of nowhere on the other.

If you're visiting Taiwan for a short time, it's always a great idea to get out of Taipei for a day or two and see some of the beautiful scenery Taiwan has to offer - A tour around the North East Coast is one of my most highly recommended day-trips for travellers and the spectacular scenery will not disappoint.

I had friends visiting from Korea last week and on their final day in Taiwan I decided to take them for a tour of the North East Coast which included a stop at Teapot Mountain, Nanya, Longdong (龍洞), Keelung Miaokou Night Market (基隆廟口夜市) and Jiufen (九份). I planned a full day for them and it didn't disappoint as the weather was beautiful and they were really happy as the scenery on the North East Coast is simply amazing comparing it to the coast of Hawaii.

My tour could have included the popular Yehliu Geopark (野柳地質公園) but I'm not really impressed by the park and I prefer to avoid crowds of annoying bus loads of tourists from China who frequent that area. The North East Coast is full of alternate locations where you can find similar rock formations like you'd find in Yehliu. Places like Laomei Green Reef (老梅綠石槽), Peace Island (和平島) and Nanya are good enough for me because you get pretty much the same experience without the "tourist trap" experience.

The great thing about Nanya is that it is just a simple stop on the side of the road along the coast. There is a parking lot for cars and scooters across the street and it's rarely full (even on weekends) so it is easy to park and go check out the rocks. The last two times I visited Nanya there was a police car waiting at the entrance to inform people to lock up their cars and close their windows because there have been incidents of robbery in the area. My guess is that one person had stuff from their car stolen in the parking lot and the police decided to just hang out and protect people. 

The cool thing about Nanya is that the large rocks which were formed over thousands of years of weathering and erosion stick out in the sky looking like cones. There are also other rocks which have weird looking jokes in them making them look like moon rocks. If you climb on the larger rocks and go out to the edge you are able to see the coral reef in the crystal clear water below. There are also a multitude of crabs, sea cockroaches and other marine life all over the rocks.

You don't need a lot of time to see Nanya but the scenery is beautiful and you're able to enjoy it without bus loads of annoying tourists. If you are visiting the North East Coast on a day trip or you're just driving through it is definitely worth a stop to check it out.


Sanxia Old Street (三峽老街)

Sanxia Old Street (三峽老街) otherwise known as San Jiao Yong Old Street (三角涌老街) is located in the Sanxia district of New Taipei City and is a popular old street for the residents of northern Taiwan. The street is about 260 meters long, but don't tell that to the people going on the weekends who will ultimately have to endure a massive traffic jam to get there!

The Sanxia area is steeped in history and there are several other notable attractions in the area that make the old street a worthwhile day trip out of the city. The street has a similar history to that of the Daxi Old Street (大溪老街) in Taoyuan and was once an economic powerhouse due to its location next to the Dabao River.

Sanxia had a long history of trade and exporting goods (mostly wood) from the mountains nearby to other parts of the island and to China which brought with it quite a lot of prosperity. When methods of transportation improved and transport by way of boat became less useful the town started to decline, merchants moved away and the economy suffered. 

The buildings we see today are a reflection of the former prestige of the town - Much like Daxi, Hukou and other old streets throughout the country, the facades of the buildings on the street were built in the baroque (巴洛克式風格) style. Sanxia stands out from the rest however due to the fact that the facades of the buildings were built uniformly in red brick and that both sides of the street have an arched sidewalk. The street was renovated by the local government in 2007 in an attempt to attract more tourists but that doesn't take away from the fact that the buildings on the street are said to be an excellent example of the architecture of the Japanese colonial era.

I’m not particularly a huge fan of crowds so I usually visit the street during weekdays - If you visit on weekdays like I do you won't get the full “old street” experience and not all of the stores will be open, but what you will get is the opportunity to take some great photos of this historic relic dating back to 1685. 

I've been to Sanxia Old Street dozens of times and I've found that I now enjoy walking along the road and checking out the wood carvings on the houses as well as the small alleys you might not notice if it were full of people.

Weekend traffic

Weekday traffic

On days when the street isn't that busy, the locals seem to be much more willing to have a chat and explain the history than they would if there were thousands of people walking along the road. On my last visit for example I was walking around alone shooting some stuff and I ran into an old man wearing a fedora who struck up a conversation with me. He told me I should pay close attention to a few things along the road and showed me an ancient “door bell” that was beside the door on his house. The door bell was a carved horse and was actually a bell that you would have pulled a string to ring which I never would have noticed on my own or even if I did think it was historically significant. 

These days the street is full of vendors selling traditional handicrafts, antiques, tea and kitschy things that tourists would buy. There are also tea houses, restaurants, shaved ice dessert places and the streets most popular product: A type of hard and sugary croissant called a “bulls horn” (牛角) that I can't say I'm particularly fond of. Whenever I visit the street I find that I don't spend any money and for me, I think that is a problem. The government invested a lot of money into the rejuvenation of the old street, so I think that it should be more than something that people just walk through once in a while. 

Sanxia's famous bulls horns. 

When Taiwanese people visit an old street, they expect to enjoy the history while following their stomachs to the place that has the best food. If you asked me about any of the old streets in Taiwan I would be able to tell you a few specific places to go and eat or have a drink. The problem with Sanxia is that the street itself doesn't really have that staple “famous” place to go and eat (save for the various vendors selling bulls horns) which is kind of a problem because it doesn't really offer anything particularly special like the others do.

The good thing however is that there are a lot of attractions in the area and the other parts of the town have some great places to eat. The Qingshui Zushi temple (清水祖師廟) is next to the old street and any visit to the street should also include a visit to one of Taiwan’s most beautiful temples designed by one of Taiwan's most famous artists.

If you enjoyed the art in the temple you may want to visit the Li Mei-Shu Memorial Gallery (李梅樹紀念館.) You may want to bike along the river path or enjoy the sunset on the banks of the river next to the temple. When you're hungry you may want to go to Batiao Sushi (八條壽司) a popular Japanese restaurant that serves up some pretty authentic dishes, fresh seafood and sushi.

The town is also close enough to Yingge (鶯歌) with its pottery street (鶯歌老街) and museum (鶯歌陶瓷博物館) and a trek up into the mountains following along the Dabao river (大豹溪) to places like Wuliaojian (五寮尖) one of my favourite hikes, the Great Roots Forestry Spa resort (大板根森林溫泉渡假村), the Cloud Forest Waterfall (雲森瀑布) and Manyueyuan forest park (滿月圓森林公園) are all highly recommended for filling up a day trip.

If you are planning a trip to Sanxia old street, I recommend taking public transportation or a scooter. If you travel by car it's likely that you will be struck in traffic for quite a while. You can takes buses from Taipei or Xindian and a train from Taipei to Yingge and then a bus or taxi to the street itself. If you have a scooter, the street isn't a long drive from the city and gives you more access to spots away from the old street.

The street is an excellent excursion out of the city and is great for experiencing a bit of the history of greater Taipei. If you're in the country for a short time, a visit to this old street is recommended more so than visiting any of the overcrowded museums. For me the best kind of museum is an interactive one and the Sanxia old street is about as interactive of an experience as you're going to get.


Teapot Mountain (無耳茶壺山)

Teapot Mountain (無耳茶壺山) is a popular trail on the North East Coast of the country that has some of the best landscapes available for a day-hike in northern Taiwan - The hike is neither long nor difficult which means it is accessible to hikers of all skill levels with the reward of exceptionally beautiful scenery which your spark an interest in taking up hiking as a hobby!

The hike is near Jinguashi (金瓜石) and the popular tourist street in Jiufen (九份老街) which is not very far out of Taipei city. The difficulty of the hike depends on your method of transportation - If you are riding a scooter or driving a car, you can be lazy and pretty much drive all the way up, shaving an hour or so of walking up stairs. If you are relying on public transportation however you need to start with a walk through Jinguashi's Gold Ecological Museum (黃金博物館) and follow the markers that indicate where the mountain trail starts.

 

Once you've arrived at the trailhead it isn't a very long hike up to the "Teapot" and most people have no trouble arriving in less than 30 minutes. The trail consists of a set of well-constructed stairs that lead you up to the peak of the mountain and then from there, further on to Banping Mountain (半屏山) if you're doing the full hike. The hike isn't a steep one and there is a very gradual incline making it easy for anyone to complete.

After a short time of hiking and enjoying the amazing scenery, you'll arrive at a rest stop that overlooks a beautiful cliff on one side and the teapot on the other. For some people, the rest stop acts as the "peak" of the mountain as they can see the scenery on the North Coast and they are close-enough to the teapot to say that they were there.

If you've lived in Taiwan long enough, you might have noticed that Taiwanese people are really gifted at looking at rocks and seeing images in them. In most cases I shake my head and say "Umm okay", but in the case of the "Teapot", it actually does look like one! The mountain is called "無耳茶壺山" which translates as "Earless Teapot Mountain" and refers to the fact that the tip of the mountain looks like a teapot, without an "ear" or a handle.

The teapot is accessible by an easy system of ropes and if you are careful, you can climb inside it and make your way to the top to get even better views of the amazing landscape of the North East Coast (東北角.) Experienced hikers will find this part of the hike extremely easy, but I can understand how for some people it can be a bit scary - I highly recommend trying though as you've already made it that far.

From the top of the Teapot you will have some pretty spectacular views of Jiufen, Jinguashi, Jilong Mountain (雞籠山), the Yin Yang Sea (陰陽海) and the North East Coast. If you are visiting on a sunny and clear day you'll be able to see as far as Keelung and you might even be able to see Taipei 101 sneaking it's head up over some of the other mountains. If you're planning on doing this hike, make sure you choose a day that will have excellent weather as the hike rewards you with stunning landscapes. The area is actually known for its rain, so make sure to pay attention to the weather forecast before making your way to the mountain.

As I mention earlier, this hike is part of a much longer hike and if you are hiking past Teapot Mountain onto the Banping Mountain (半屏山) trail you should be warned that the hike past Teapot mountain is much more difficult and shouldn't be taken lightly - especially if the weather isn't very good. That being said, if your plan is to do the entire hike (something I can say I haven't done yet) then you should be prepared for a full day-hike rather than just an easy day-hike.

If you are planning a trip to the area and you are relying on public transportation, your options might be limited, but if you have access to your own method of transportation you may want to consider some of the other tourist attractions which include the Golden Waterfall (黃金瀑布), Jiufen Old Street, the Yin Yang Sea, etc. There is a wealth of things to do in the area, so if you are only doing the Teapot Mountain hike you can be sure to finish the hike with a nice cup of tea in Jiufen overlooking the beautiful ocean below.

If you are visiting Taiwan from abroad and want to experience the natural beauty of this island, it's highly recommended that you plan both a trip to this mountain and finish it off with a visit to Jiufen. If you are unsure that you're able to get to the mountain on your own, the guys at Taiwan Adventures are available for guided tours and will plan all the logistics for you.

All in all the hike is an easy one and the reward outweighs the amount of time it takes you to get there. Coupled with the fact that you are easily able to include other activities in the area making it a full-day tourist excursion from the city makes it even better. I know it's not a popular guidebook destination, but any visit to Jiufen should include a hike to Teapot Mountain!

Taiwan Adventures - Teapot Mountain


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Shots)