New Taipei City

Shifen Waterfall (十分大瀑布)

Shifen Waterfall (十分大瀑布) nicknamed the "Niagara of Taiwan" is a popular tourist attraction in the Pingxi District (平溪區) of New Taipei City and is probably the most widely visited waterfall in the entire country. The small mountainous district of New Taipei City is an extremely well-known tourist destination for people visiting Taiwan and the easy access to this set of falls makes it an even more attractive destination for people who visit to take part in the famous sky lantern tradition for which Pingxi is known all around the world.

Coming from Canada, it is hard for me to compare any set of falls to our famous Horseshoe Falls. That being said, Shifen Waterfall is somewhat of a "mini" Taiwanese version of Niagara and while the shape of both sets of falls is similar, I think that the natural beauty of the mountains that surround the falls as well as the green water of the Keelung river make this waterfall stand out as the best (of all the well-known tourist attraction) waterfalls in Taiwan. I add the caveat to that statement because there are so many beautiful waterfalls in Taiwan that are not developed for tourism and aren't widely known, but are just as beautiful!

Waterfalls: Wulai Waterfall | Xiao Wulai Waterfall | Neidong Waterfall

The Shifen Waterfall has a total height of 20 meters (66 feet) and is 40 meters 130 feet) in width making it the broadest waterfall in the entire country. The falls are of the 'cascade' variety which means that the water flows in one direction while it descends upon a series of rock steps making the waterfall look like it has several different curtains. The Pingxi area is quite prone to rain due to its proximity to the mountains and the north coast of the country. There is always a steady flow of water coming from the falls and what you'll see when you visit is likely the same as what I saw when I took the photos.

Newly constructed viewing platforms are set up in several different places around the falls that give tourists an excellent opportunity to view the waterfalls. For this blog, I took long exposure shots from several different viewing platforms which were to the right of the falls, in the centre near the base, to the left on the stairs and from the top of the falls looking down. Tourists have quite a few options to view the waterfalls thanks to the New Taipei City government and you are sure to get some nice photos if you visit!

There is a bit of a long story as to why I offer my gratitude to the government but I will try to make it a bit concise: The area around the waterfall was 'private property' for years. The people who owned the property naturally decided to set up a coffee shop, a lame theme park and rather unsafe viewing platforms for tourists. The price of admission was a bit steep and elicited complaints from the public. The New Taipei City government after a long battle with the owners stated: "Shifen Waterfall is an important natural asset that belongs to the public, and people have the right to visit it, the department said, adding that private entities cannot restrict visitors from doing so." (link) and thus took control of the land, restricting access for a year (or more) to redevelop it so that tourists could visit the waterfalls while in Pingxi and more importantly - for free!

For the most part-people visit the Shifen Station (十分車站) area on the Pingxi Rail Line (平溪線) because they are interested in releasing sky lanterns which is the reason why Pingxi has gained such notoriety in recent years. The waterfall is a short one kilometre walk from the station and that ultimately prevents a lot of people from visiting.

When I visit Pingxi, it is either for the Pingxi Crags, the Sandiaoling Waterfall hike, river tracing or basically anything that has to do with nature. I prefer to stay away from the whole sky lantern thing because they are extremely terrible for the environment. If I was ever to write my wishes on one, I'd write something like: "What goes up, must come down - and when they come down they end up polluting the beautiful natural environment".

Please consider that if you are travelling in the area. The mountains and rivers are full of sky lanterns that flew for a matter of minutes and descending back to earth.

If you're interested in waterfalls, but not really interested in taking the effort to hike to one and swim in it, then this one is for you. The waterfall requires a short walk down the road from the train station and the viewing platforms are set up so well that you can get some pretty great photos. I recommend visiting, but if you are the avid hiking type like myself you might feel a little bored and the itch that you may have to just jump the barrier and go for a swim might get to you like it does for me!

Doing the tourist thing. 


Nanya Rocks (南雅奇石)

Nanya, otherwise known as "Nanya Peculiar Rocks" (南雅奇石) is considered the 'gateway' to the North East Coast (北海岸) which happens to be one of the most beautiful drives in Taiwan. The drive along the coast features some of Taiwan's most iconic beauty with the Pacific Ocean on one side and giant mountains that seem to rise out of nowhere on the other.

If you're visiting Taiwan for a short time, it's always a great idea to get out of Taipei for a day or two and see some of the beautiful scenery Taiwan has to offer - A tour around the North East Coast is one of my most highly recommended day-trips for travellers and the spectacular scenery will not disappoint.

I had friends visiting from Korea last week and on their final day in Taiwan I decided to take them for a tour of the North East Coast which included a stop at Teapot Mountain, Nanya, Longdong (龍洞), Keelung Miaokou Night Market (基隆廟口夜市) and Jiufen (九份). I planned a full day for them and it didn't disappoint as the weather was beautiful and they were really happy as the scenery on the North East Coast is simply amazing comparing it to the coast of Hawaii.

My tour could have included the popular Yehliu Geopark (野柳地質公園) but I'm not really impressed by the park and I prefer to avoid crowds of annoying bus loads of tourists from China who frequent that area. The North East Coast is full of alternate locations where you can find similar rock formations like you'd find in Yehliu. Places like Laomei Green Reef (老梅綠石槽), Peace Island (和平島) and Nanya are good enough for me because you get pretty much the same experience without the "tourist trap" experience.

The great thing about Nanya is that it is just a simple stop on the side of the road along the coast. There is a parking lot for cars and scooters across the street and it's rarely full (even on weekends) so it is easy to park and go check out the rocks. The last two times I visited Nanya there was a police car waiting at the entrance to inform people to lock up their cars and close their windows because there have been incidents of robbery in the area. My guess is that one person had stuff from their car stolen in the parking lot and the police decided to just hang out and protect people. 

The cool thing about Nanya is that the large rocks which were formed over thousands of years of weathering and erosion stick out in the sky looking like cones. There are also other rocks which have weird looking jokes in them making them look like moon rocks. If you climb on the larger rocks and go out to the edge you are able to see the coral reef in the crystal clear water below. There are also a multitude of crabs, sea cockroaches and other marine life all over the rocks.

You don't need a lot of time to see Nanya but the scenery is beautiful and you're able to enjoy it without bus loads of annoying tourists. If you are visiting the North East Coast on a day trip or you're just driving through it is definitely worth a stop to check it out.


Sanxia Old Street (三峽老街)

Sanxia Old Street (三峽老街) otherwise known as San Jiao Yong Old Street (三角涌老街) is located in the Sanxia district of New Taipei City and is a popular old street for the residents of northern Taiwan. The street is about 260 meters long, but don't tell that to the people going on the weekends who will ultimately have to endure a massive traffic jam to get there!

The Sanxia area is steeped in history and there are several other notable attractions in the area that make the old street a worthwhile day trip out of the city. The street has a similar history to that of the Daxi Old Street (大溪老街) in Taoyuan and was once an economic powerhouse due to its location next to the Dabao River.

Sanxia had a long history of trade and exporting goods (mostly wood) from the mountains nearby to other parts of the island and to China which brought with it quite a lot of prosperity. When methods of transportation improved and transport by way of boat became less useful the town started to decline, merchants moved away and the economy suffered. 

The buildings we see today are a reflection of the former prestige of the town - Much like Daxi, Hukou and other old streets throughout the country, the facades of the buildings on the street were built in the baroque (巴洛克式風格) style. Sanxia stands out from the rest however due to the fact that the facades of the buildings were built uniformly in red brick and that both sides of the street have an arched sidewalk. The street was renovated by the local government in 2007 in an attempt to attract more tourists but that doesn't take away from the fact that the buildings on the street are said to be an excellent example of the architecture of the Japanese colonial era.

I’m not particularly a huge fan of crowds so I usually visit the street during weekdays - If you visit on weekdays like I do you won't get the full “old street” experience and not all of the stores will be open, but what you will get is the opportunity to take some great photos of this historic relic dating back to 1685. 

I've been to Sanxia Old Street dozens of times and I've found that I now enjoy walking along the road and checking out the wood carvings on the houses as well as the small alleys you might not notice if it were full of people.

Weekend traffic

Weekday traffic

On days when the street isn't that busy, the locals seem to be much more willing to have a chat and explain the history than they would if there were thousands of people walking along the road. On my last visit for example I was walking around alone shooting some stuff and I ran into an old man wearing a fedora who struck up a conversation with me. He told me I should pay close attention to a few things along the road and showed me an ancient “door bell” that was beside the door on his house. The door bell was a carved horse and was actually a bell that you would have pulled a string to ring which I never would have noticed on my own or even if I did think it was historically significant. 

These days the street is full of vendors selling traditional handicrafts, antiques, tea and kitschy things that tourists would buy. There are also tea houses, restaurants, shaved ice dessert places and the streets most popular product: A type of hard and sugary croissant called a “bulls horn” (牛角) that I can't say I'm particularly fond of. Whenever I visit the street I find that I don't spend any money and for me, I think that is a problem. The government invested a lot of money into the rejuvenation of the old street, so I think that it should be more than something that people just walk through once in a while. 

Sanxia's famous bulls horns. 

When Taiwanese people visit an old street, they expect to enjoy the history while following their stomachs to the place that has the best food. If you asked me about any of the old streets in Taiwan I would be able to tell you a few specific places to go and eat or have a drink. The problem with Sanxia is that the street itself doesn't really have that staple “famous” place to go and eat (save for the various vendors selling bulls horns) which is kind of a problem because it doesn't really offer anything particularly special like the others do.

The good thing however is that there are a lot of attractions in the area and the other parts of the town have some great places to eat. The Qingshui Zushi temple (清水祖師廟) is next to the old street and any visit to the street should also include a visit to one of Taiwan’s most beautiful temples designed by one of Taiwan's most famous artists.

If you enjoyed the art in the temple you may want to visit the Li Mei-Shu Memorial Gallery (李梅樹紀念館.) You may want to bike along the river path or enjoy the sunset on the banks of the river next to the temple. When you're hungry you may want to go to Batiao Sushi (八條壽司) a popular Japanese restaurant that serves up some pretty authentic dishes, fresh seafood and sushi.

The town is also close enough to Yingge (鶯歌) with its pottery street (鶯歌老街) and museum (鶯歌陶瓷博物館) and a trek up into the mountains following along the Dabao river (大豹溪) to places like Wuliaojian (五寮尖) one of my favourite hikes, the Great Roots Forestry Spa resort (大板根森林溫泉渡假村), the Cloud Forest Waterfall (雲森瀑布) and Manyueyuan forest park (滿月圓森林公園) are all highly recommended for filling up a day trip.

If you are planning a trip to Sanxia old street, I recommend taking public transportation or a scooter. If you travel by car it's likely that you will be struck in traffic for quite a while. You can takes buses from Taipei or Xindian and a train from Taipei to Yingge and then a bus or taxi to the street itself. If you have a scooter, the street isn't a long drive from the city and gives you more access to spots away from the old street.

The street is an excellent excursion out of the city and is great for experiencing a bit of the history of greater Taipei. If you're in the country for a short time, a visit to this old street is recommended more so than visiting any of the overcrowded museums. For me the best kind of museum is an interactive one and the Sanxia old street is about as interactive of an experience as you're going to get.