Taoyuan

Laotoubai Hakka Cuisine (老頭擺客家餐廳)

Taipei has some of the hippest, stylish restaurants that you'll find anywhere in the world. Wherever you go in the city, you will be overwhelmed by the design of some of the restaurants and when it comes to food, Taiwan is extremely well-versed in the culinary arts. We are also lucky to have Food bloggers like the Hungry Girl's Guide to Taipei who do an excellent job of introducing new places and keeping us up to date on what the new trends in dining are in the city!  

When modern design is what you are used to, it can sometimes be a bit strange to walk into a restaurant like Laotoubai (老頭擺客家餐廳) here in Taoyuan and not feel a sense of awe as you will be dining in a home that is over one hundred years old and certainly spares no effort not to look it! 

One of the Dining Rooms. 

As far as the food goes, Laotoubai is your typical Hakka-style restaurant which serves up all the traditional dishes you would expect. Their take on Ginger Intestines (薑絲大腸) and Salty Pork (鹹豬肉) are the best I've had (I live in a predominately Hakka area) and their fresh River Shrimp (炸溪哥) are taken from the river next to the restaurant!

The food is only one reason why this restaurant is so awesome though and actually isn't the reason why I'm posting an article about a restaurant on a photography blog. The house, which seems to be a mansion is the former residence of Hakka farmers and is a large traditional three-section house (三合院) which still features a lot of the old furniture and decorations the original inhabitants would have used.

A large family having dinner in the main dining room with a rice tiller outside. 

Each of the dining rooms in the restaurant has something cool and of historical value to see including traditional beds, old dressers, mirrors, wall paintings, scrolls, record players, farming hats and antique tools such as a rice tiller.

The restaurant is great for exploring and they don't waste time with plaques to explain everything like a museum does.

While I was walking around taking photos, a few parents were also walking around with their children explaining what all the antiques were used for which was teaching a valuable lesson of Taiwan's history that they probably wouldn't have gotten in any textbooks. 

Dining room with a bed! 

A dining room in what was once a living room. 

I've been to this restaurant several times over the years and it has always been one of my favourite in the area I live in - While it can be busy, it isn't similar to those in Taipei as you won't likely need to make reservations (unless you need one of the larger dining rooms.)

In summer, I prefer sitting outside in the courtyard on the picnic tables to enjoy the weather. If you choose to sit outside, they have a few tamed chickens that walk around keeping you company! 

Whether you're looking for great food or dining in a place where you can learn a bit about the past, this restaurant is a great example of both - and also proves that you don't have to shell out wads of cash for the hippest interior designer in town to attract business! 

It also provides excellent light and is appealing to the eye of a photographer! 


Food Shots from my iPhone

I don't take food shots with my camera, but I'm not above taking some with my iPhone - Here are some shots of the food I had the night I visited. As mentioned above, my favourites were the Salty Pork and the Ginger Intestines! Hakka Cuisine is one of the best to be sampled in Taiwan and if you are in the country you should definitely give it a try! 

烤鹹豬肉 - BBQ'd Salty Pork

薑絲大腸 - Ginger Intestines

梅干扣肉- Braised Pork with Stewed Vegetables

蔥爆牛肉 - Stir-Fried Beef with Shallots

客家小炒 - Hakka Stir Fry


How to get there: 

Address/地址: 325 桃園縣龍潭鄉中正路三坑段546號 / #546 Chung-Cheng Road (Sankeng Section) Longtan Village, Taoyuan County.

Telephone: +886 3-4711359 / Website (Chinese Only)


People of the Night 16 (興仁花園夜市)

The Hsing-Ren Garden Night Market (興仁花園夜市) is a newly-opened night market located in Bade City (八德) in Taoyuan County. The night market is over 6000 square meters making it possibly the largest in northern Taiwan. While shooting this night market, I have to say that it has quickly become one of my favourite night markets to visit out of all of them.

It has almost everything I could want! Not only does this night market have all the typical night market fare you would expect, but it also has vendors selling fresh oysters and fresh Thai shrimp. There's San Francisco style pizza by the slice, American grilled steaks, Hong Kong Dim Sum, Ramen, Mongolian BBQ and Taiwanese Indigenous BBQ. There are places to sit down to drink some fresh draft beer with friends and places to buy cocktails mixed with fresh juice! What else could you want in a night market? You can eat, drink, and have fun all night long. 

The Hsing-Ren Night Market is a "garden" or "flower" (花園) night market which is the "new" thing here in Taiwan popularized by the Tainan Garden Night Market (台南花園夜市) and the Fu Da Garden Night Market (輔大花園夜市) in New Taipei City. 

These kind of night markets are quite popular among younger crowds and a lot of the food that has swept the nation over the past few years have been products of these style night markets as they attract younger people who are more willing to try new and more exotic foods.   

I will make four posts in this series with over thirty shots and I hope that you will like what I have for you! 



1. Grilled Oysters (烤生蠔) 

In my first post in the series I posted a shot of Oyster stand with the boss in the distance. In this shot we have a father and son manning a grill with fresh oysters being prepared for customers.

I'm not sure why oysters are such a big thing at Hsing-Ren night market, but my guess is partly because of the clever way the night market is set up with some vendors offering seating to its customers.

I've been to the night market several times while shooting this series and thus far the only seafood I've had is the fresh Thai shrimp, so I can't attest to how these oysters taste, but it seems like this stall is quite popular, so I imagine they're really good.  

2. Hong Kong Shao Mai (港式燒賣) 

The Hsing-Ren night market has five stalls selling Hong Kong style food. Food from Hong Kong is somewhat of a rarity in Taiwan's night markets, but Hsing-Ren has this vendor selling Shao-Mai (燒賣), another place selling Dim Sum, some curry fish balls (a popular HK street food) and a couple of places selling Hong Kong-style teas (凍頂檸檬) 

I haven't tried this particular stall, but I did have some Rice Noodle Rolls (腸粉), some dumplings and some Char Siu Buns (叉燒包) at another vendor close to this one which were all quite good, especially considering you are in a night market and not an expensive hotel.

Quality Cantonese food is a bit of a rarity in Taiwan, especially when it comes to traditional-style Dim Sum and it seems more often than not that the best Dim Sum I've had in my life was back home in Canada or of course on my many visits to Hong Kong. 

3. Seafood Hot Pot (台灣鯛魚砂鍋)

 Another night market rarity and probably a Hsing-Ren only vendor is this extremely busy Seafood Hot Pot vendor. For me, a trip to the night market usually includes a five-course meal with appetizers and dessert that altogether costs about 200NT (About 6 dollars) 

I probably wouldn't even consider going to a night market for just one dish and then leaving - but then again Hsing Ren isn't your typical place. People have been lining up to get a seat at this stall for a while and if you do get a seat, you're sure to be stuffed by the time you leave. 

If you look at the pots in the bottom left of the shot they give you an example of what will be in your soup. You can also add various other seafood dishes if you are in a group making it a more expensive affair.

The name of this shop is 「鯛魚」(diao1 yu2) which is more or less a nicer way to refer to "Tilapia" a fish most Taiwanese consider to be a cheap low-quality fish. The pot is filled with the fish, a bunch of vegetables and their secret soup base and then cooked extremely quickly over a hot flame. 

It was difficult to get a shot of these guys because they're extremely busy. They move extremely fast and they're never in the same place for more than a few seconds. I stead of having a portrait o decided to go for the environment to show what was going on.  

4. Braised Food (超黑的滷味)

Your typical braised food (滷味) comes steaming hot for you making a meal of various kinds of meat and vegetables. This is different kind completely. The kind this boss sells are more like freshly made appetizers or 「小菜」that you have before a meal here.

The black looking food you see the boss preparing are dried tofu (豆乾) which is a speciality food here in Taoyuan. Beside the dried tofu is coagulated pigs blood with rice (米血) and is really not as disgusting as it sounds. The vendor serves other kinds of braised foods including edamame beans (毛豆) and pigs ear (豬耳) that go great with beer at a restaurant!

After taking this shot the boss noticed me and asked me if I wanted to sample the tofu. I'm a big fan of the dried tofu that you can buy here in Taoyuan, so of course I obliged. It was really tasty and almost resembled black liquorice.

If I'm ever planning to have friends over for some drinks, I'll be sure to head over to this place to pick up some of his food for the party!   

5. Turkish Ice Cream (土耳其冰淇淋) 

Turkish Ice Cream is a pain in the ass. Whenever you try to order one they play a bunch of tricks and make a fool of you in front everyone. As a foreigner, I stand to stand out in crowds and would much rather blend in than become a public spectacle. With these guys it is always in good fun though. Their ice cream is homemade and is much different than what Taiwanese people are used to as it can be chewier.

It seems like these stalls are always popular wherever you go throughout the country. People like to interact with foreigners and they like the way the foreigner jokes around with them.

When I took this shot the Turkish man was playing some tricks on the girl with a really straight face while her friends were behind him watching and laughing. I wanted a portrait of the vendor, but I thought the addition of her friends in a wider environment would add more context. 

6. Grilled Shellfish (烤生蠔/干貝) 

This stall is yet another busy vendor selling grilled seafood - she is selling grilled oysters, scallops, clams and snails. Grilled seafood is a big thing at this night market although I think that this stall probably has the largest variety of shellfish of all of them.  

I come from Nova Scotia, a small province on the east coast of Canada that is well-known for its scallops and my mother is a master of cooking them - So its hard for me to want to buy scallops still on the shell with cheap cheese on top. That is my personal opinion however as there was a long line at this stall each time I visited.

If I had to choose, I'd probably go with the grilled snails over the rest of what is being grilled here. I'm a big fan of the mixed pepper and salt that is sold here and when its grilled on top of the snails it gives terrific flavour. 

When I took the shot the boss was busy at work. It wasn't easy to get a shot of her taking a break or getting her to notice me and look in the camera. Her business is booming and she doesn't have much time to take a break. 

7. Korean Pan fried Kebabs (韓醬鐵板串燒) 

This vendor sells chicken kebabs basted in a Korean chili sauce and then cooked on a Teppanyaki grill. These chicken kebabs are similar to the kind I wrote about in my first post in this series. The difference with these kebabs is that they have the Korean sauces, which is extremely tasty and appeal to all the young people who are in love with Korean culture. 

When I took the shot I tried to get the boss hard at work, but his wife noticed and made an interesting gesture. Street photography is all about candid gestures and it is common to see people like a deer in the headlights. That is part of what makes it interesting to me. 

I haven't tried these chicken kebabs yet, but I plan on heading back to the night market and trying them for sure. 

8. Taiwanese Sausages (台灣香腸) 

Taiwanese sausages are a mainstay of Taiwan's street foods. It seems like no matter where you go, there is someone selling some sausages and there is always a line of people waiting to buy them. 

I guess you could say that the Taiwanese love of their sausages is quite similar to the way Americans think of hot dogs. If you ask me though a hot dog has nothing on a Taiwanese sausage - They are served hot, juicy and are full of flavour when you eat them. They're served on a stick and you always have the option of taking a few cloves of garlic to eat them with. 

They're cheap and because of the high demand they are always made fresh. If you end up at a night market and you really have no idea what to get to eat, a sausage might be your best choice! 


This post concludes my Hsing-Ren Night Market series - I had a lot of fun shooting this night market and ate some great food each time I visited!

This night market isn't your typical night market and while it has all the foods you have come to expect at night markets around the country, it also goes above and beyond introducing new foods to the Taiwanese public! 

One could hope that grilled steak, pizza by the slice, döner kebap and fresh Thai shrimp become regular night market fare around the country! 

Below you will find a gallery of all the shots from this series as well as some shots that didn't make the cut. 

I'll going to take a few weeks off to post a few non-night market posts and then start posting from Taiwan's most famous and iconic night market - Keelung's Miaokou Night Market (基隆廟口夜市) 


People of the Night 15 (興仁花園夜市)

The Hsing-Ren Garden Night Market (興仁花園夜市) is a newly-opened night market located in Bade City (八德) in Taoyuan County. The night market is over 6000 square meters making it possibly the largest in northern Taiwan. While shooting this night market, I have to say that it has quickly become one of my favourite night markets to visit out of all of them.

It has almost everything I could want! Not only does this night market have all the typical night market fare you would expect, but it also has vendors selling fresh oysters and fresh Thai shrimp. There's San Francisco style pizza by the slice, American grilled steaks, Hong Kong Dim Sum, Ramen, Mongolian BBQ and Taiwanese Indigenous BBQ. There are places to sit down to drink some fresh draft beer with friends and places to buy cocktails mixed with fresh juice! What else could you want in a night market? You can eat, drink, and have fun all night long. 

The Hsing-Ren Night Market is a "garden" or "flower" (花園) night market which is the "new" thing here in Taiwan popularized by the Tainan Garden Night Market (台南花園夜市) and the Fu Da Garden Night Market (輔大花園夜市) in New Taipei City. 

These kind of night markets are quite popular among younger crowds and a lot of the food that has swept the nation over the past few years have been products of these style night markets as they attract younger people who are more willing to try new and more exotic foods.   

I will make four posts in this series with over thirty shots and I hope that you will like what I have for you! 

This post will be all about drinks that you can get at the night market! 



1. Watermelon Juice (西瓜汁) 

Some guys have this awesome ability to drink an entire beer in seconds. Truthfully I can drink a beer pretty quickly, but when it comes to watermelon juice there is no comparison. If you give me a 500cc cup of watermelon juice, it will be gone in seconds. I don't know what it is about watermelon juice, but it is amazing. Watermelon was always crazy expensive back home in Canada, so we never thought to make juice out of it. Here in Taiwan though watermelons are everywhere in summer and they are really cheap. So cheap that a 500cc cup of freshly blended juice is less than a dollar. I really liked this shot because the stall was cool looking and the young girl running it noticed me taking the shot and looked directly into the camera. 

2. Starfruit Juice (楊桃汁) 

While I was still in university back in Canada, an international fruit store opened up near where I live. For most people this probably doesn't seem like a big thing, but I'm from the east coast of Canada where that kind of thing isn't really common. When the store opened up I fell in love with starfruit. I bought them often and enjoyed the taste. When I arrived in Taiwan and had my first night market experience, one of the first things I noticed was a starfruit juice vendor at the entrance of the night market. After buying a cup I quickly found out that not all fruit juices taste like the fruit that they're made of. I wasn't a fan of starfruit juice at all and up to this day almost ten years later I still haven't tried it again. This vendor however was quite popular and when I took the shot one of the people working there looked into the camera making the shot much better. 

3. Fruit Juice and Papaya Milk (新鮮果汁/木瓜牛奶) 

This fruit juice vendor originated at the Zhongli Night Market and is so popular that they have expanded to several locations around Taoyuan county. They are most famous for their papaya milk, but they sell a wide range of fresh fruit juices and blended drinks as well. Whenever I go to the Zhongli Night Market I always make sure to buy a grapefruit juice from this stall but the stall at Hsing-Ren was so busy every time I went that I wouldn't even bother. 

I took this shot on a rainy day when the night market wasn't so busy. I was happy to get a wide angle shot of the stall and even happier to have one of the workers look directly into the camera as I took the shot. If you are ever in Taoyuan at a night market and you see a stall that looks like this be sure to try some of their awesome drinks - especially the papaya milk which is a must-try for people visiting Taiwan!  

4. Watermelon Juice/Milk (西瓜汁/西瓜牛奶) 

Summer is coming, so there is no lack of places selling watermelon juice and other summer treats. This stall is selling mango smoothies, watermelon juice and watermelon milk. I can't drink milk, so I can't really explain how a watermelon juice tastes, but the people here in Taiwan like to mix their fruit with milk, so it is quite normal to see stuff like this. If you go to 7-11s around the country it is normal to find banana-milk, apple-milk, strawberry-milk, etc.

Mango season is just starting here and fruit markets are starting to fill up with the awesome fruit. I'll be back to this night market for sure to have a mango smoothie (芒果爽) which is a thick blended drink with mango and ice and is sure to cause a bit of brain freeze.  

5. Pearl Milk Tea (珍珠奶茶)

It wouldn't be Taiwan without some pearl milk tea right? One of the most popular drinks around the country is pearl milk tea, or bubble tea. I love having some of these tasty tapioca balls in my drink, but unfortunately I can't have milk, so I really have no idea how awesome a pearl milk tea is (sad face) I will often add bubbles to my fruit teas or green teas though so I'm not that deprived. This stall sells pearl milk tea, green tea, black tea, oolong tea, etc. The most popular thing that they sell is pearl milk tea or black tea with freshly made brown sugar (黑糖) When I took the shot, the girls working at the vendor seemed quite interested that a foreign guy was taking their picture, so they looked curiously into the camera. 

As a bit of an anecdote into the differences in language: Black Tea is 「紅茶」or "red tea" in Chinese and Brown Sugar is 「黑糖」or "black sugar." I find that quite interesting. 

6. Starfruit Juice (蜜桃湯) 

Here we have another starfruit juice stall. This one is a bit more traditional than the previous one (which probably means that the juice is even more terrible) and it seems like most people, buy large bottles and take them home. Starfruit juice isn't particularly expensive and is much cheaper than most other juices. It comes in sweet or salty flavours and you can buy it cold, warm or hot. 

Health is probably the reason the majority of people drink starfruit juice as it is great for sore throats and coughing. It is also great on hot days when you've sweat too much and need to quench your thirst. If memory serves me correctly it tasted a little bit like cough syrup, so maybe that's why it is good for a cough!  

7. Korean Ice Cream (拐杖冰) 

This is the newest fad sweeping the nation and I have almost absolutely no idea what it is. What I do know is that they are popular in Korea and likely became popular here because of the influence of a Korean drama. I know that it is ice cream and it looks like the ice cream is somehow pumped into that "churro" looking thing. Every thing Korea is popular in Taiwan now. The fashion, culture, music, food, etc. have all recently become readily available around the country. This is just another example of Korean influence on Taiwanese people and it is fashionable to eat this kind of thing. The good news is though that Korean interest in Taiwan is reciprocal and Korean tourism here is booming like never before. 

If anyone knows anything more about this ice cream, let me know in the comments below and I'd be glad to add some information!