Temples

Ji-an Yoshino Shrine (吉安慶修院)

Over the past few years I’ve blogged in great detail about various locations leftover from Taiwan’s Japanese Colonial Era introducing buildings, shrines, martial arts halls, etc.

Every time I write one of these articles, I offer a bit of an introduction to the colonial era by explaining to readers that the colonial period lasted from 1895 - 1945, and how for better or worse it was one of the most important eras in Taiwan’s modern history as the Japanese kickstarted the development of Taiwan into the beautiful country that we love today. 

When I talk about these things, I’m often accused of glossing over the terrible things that took place during the half century that the Japanese controlled the islands. And yeah, the Japanese were just like any other colonial power and committed atrocities. The development that took place likewise wasn’t entirely altruistic as it benefitted them and the construction of their fledgling empire, which had its eyes set on massive expansion around South East Asia.

Taiwan was just a stepping stone for fuelling those ambitions.

One facet of the colonial period that I’ve barely touched however is what happened when the war ended and the Japanese surrendered.

I always briefly mention that control of Taiwan and the Penghu Islands were ‘ambiguously’ awarded to the Republic of China, but that doesn’t really tell the full story of the administrative transition that took place, in addition to an exodus of people who left Taiwan with the outgoing colonial regime.

In 2015, a powerful documentary was released in theatres here in Taiwan that did an excellent job telling the forgotten story of what happened when the Japanese left, from the perspective of those who had lived in Taiwan for generations.

The documentary, titled: Wansei Back Home (灣生回家), chronicled the history of some of those (still living) Japanese citizens, who were born in Taiwan, and who had only ever known Taiwan as a home before they were forced to move back to Japan. It told about how they were met with hostility and discrimination when they arrived back in post-war Japan as the country was in the process of rebuilding.

It also delved into how these “Wansei” (灣生), or Japanese citizens who were “Born in Taiwan,” had a difficult time adapting to their new lives while missing the only home that they ever knew.

When the war ended and the Japanese were forced to leave Taiwan, they ended up bringing with them around half a million people.

When the Japanese era started in 1895, an active campaign started in Japan to encourage citizens (with specific skills) to emigrate to the new colony to assist in its development. 

Many of those who came in those early years brought with them everything they owned and a one-way ticket. Then, for several generations they lived, worked and raised families here in Taiwan, forming a deep connection with this land.

One of the first villages set up for these new immigrants to Taiwan was in Hualian’s Ji-an Village (吉安鄉), which then was known as “Yoshino Village”, and just so happens to be the setting in the movie for the return of those “Wansei” citizens, who returned to see their long-lost home.

In this article, I’m going to start off by introducing Yoshino Village and its historical significance before moving on to the main topic of the Yoshino Shrine, which is known today as Qingxiu Temple (慶修院).

Then I’ll conclude with some photos from the site of the former Yoshino Shinto Shrine (吉野神社), located in the heart of the village. 

The Buddhist temple has become a popular tourist attraction in recent years, since its restoration and although there may be a few English-language articles floating around the internet about it, I think it’s more beneficial to the reader to do a bit of a deep-dive into the history of this special village to get a better understanding of its significance.  

Yoshino Village (吉野村)

Street in Yoshino

Street in Yoshino

Originally settled by the Amis Indigenous people, the area we know today as Ji-an (吉安), was once referred to as Cikasuan (知卡宣) or “flowing timber” by the indigenous people who lived there. 

Located within the Huadong Valley (花東地區), Ji-an has a humid subtropical climate and is one of the areas of Hualien best known for its agricultural output, with crops that include rice, sugarcane, corn and tangerines, among others. 

Even though Ji-an has been the home of the Amis people (阿美族) for thousands of years, starting around the 17th century, it has also been an important area where various groups of Hakka (客家) and Hoklo (閩南) migrants have settled. Then, much later a larger group of refugees from the Chinese Civil War came to the area to make a new life in Ji-an. 

Today, these four different groups make up the vast majority of the over eighty-three thousand people who live in Ji-an. Before the arrival of those refugees however, Ji-an was a much different community than it is today, and as I mentioned above, holds a special place in Taiwan’s history. 

The Japanese Empire took control of Taiwan in 1895 and after a period of instability and heavy-handedness, life in Taiwan (for better or worse) eventually settled to become that of the model colony the Japanese were looking for. For the first few years, the only Japanese citizens who came to Taiwan would have been predominately military, civil servants, engineers and business people who sought to capitalize on the treasures that the island had to offer the empire. 

Yoshino tobacco farm

Yoshino tobacco farm

When the situation stabilized, the government made the decision to start a campaign to encourage immigration to the colony, which viewed further immigration to Taiwan by ‘ordinary’ (most often lower-class citizens), especially those who were labourers or farmers was a great way to improve production.

While also testing a ‘settler colonialism’ scheme by mixing Japanese citizens with the local population. 

The East Coast was chosen as the optimal location to start an immigration campaign for these ‘planned communities’ (移民村), due to the fact that it was sparsely populated and thanks to the so-called ‘availability’ of land.

To sweeten the deal, the government would provide each family with transportation, a home and a plot of land to farm on in addition to a number of subsidies.  

The so-called availability of land is a contentious issue as it forced the local Amis people off of their traditional lands and further into the mountains, resulting in a uprising known as the Cikasuan Incident (七腳川事件).

Immigration to the area started modestly in early 1910 (明治43年), with nine families recruited from Tokushima Prefecture (德島縣) on Japan’s Shikoku Island (四國), with another 52 following by the end of the same year. 

Taking into consideration how so many of the immigrants to the area hailed from Yoshinogawa City (吉野川市) in Tokushima, the village was officially renamed Yoshino Village (吉野村) in 1911 (明治44年) to better reflect the heritage of the new residents.

Rice fields in Yoshino

Rice fields in Yoshino

As mentioned above, the Yoshino area was already home to Hoklo, Hakka and Indigenous peoples, so when Yoshino Village became an official village, it was structured into three divisions, namely Miyamae (宮前), Shimizu (清水) and Kusawake (草分), with three tribal areas for the Amis people. Within these three divisions, the Japanese community and the local community were for the most part segregated, but surprisingly a sense of community partnership and shared success brought them all closer than anyone would have ever thought. 

Within a decade of the immigrant community project starting, Yoshino had become a model of success and the hard work of the immigrants and the locals alike transformed the village from a small settlement of sharecropping farms that endured endemic diseases and transformed the ‘wilderness’ into a model of economic success.

Quickly becoming an important centre for food production and economic activity, thanks to its success in the cultivation of rice, sugarcane, tobacco, vegetable and fruit production, the colonial government sought to use the ‘Yoshino model’ in official government propaganda that sought to create similar communities all over Taiwan.

But in order to do so, a considerable amount of public funds had to be invested in the village to ensure that it was equipped with hospitals, schools, civil buildings, shrines and public works projects. 

The “model immigrant community” project, which lasted from 1909 until around 1918 turned out to become a successful venture, but no where was it as successful as it was on the East Coast with Yoshino acting as the model for nearby villages like Toyota (豐田), Hayashida (林田), Yoshita (賀田), Kano (鹿野) and Ikegami (池上), among others. 

Link: Huadong Valley Ride 2018: Hualien City to Fenglin (Spectal Codex)

As the village continued to grow, administration become a major issue, so in 1937 (昭和12年), Yoshino Village was absorbed as a township within the much larger Karenko Prefecture (花蓮縣, which was better able to assert governmental control over its economic development.

If you read the introduction to this article, you’re probably aware of what I’m about to tell you. 

When the Second World War came to an end, the people living in Yoshino and all of the Japanese immigrant communities that dotted the eastern coast of Taiwan were forcibly repatriated back to Japan as the colonial government was making its exit. 

Yoshino Primary School

Yoshino Primary School

The tragedy of this story is that for the several generations of “Wansei” who were born here, and whom had never stepped foot in their ancestral homeland, they were leaving the only home they ever knew for one that was hostile to their existence.

Nevertheless, even though these villages were completely depopulated and abandoned by the Japanese, a housing crisis caused by the arrival of almost two million Chinese refugees a few short years later helped to revive these communities.

When the Chinese Nationalists took over, “Yoshino Village” ceased to exist, but Ji-an (吉安鄉) replaced it, and the farms and industry that were cultivated by the immigrants and local people over the thirty-eight years of its existence were brought back to life and continue to this day.

The few remaining Wansei continue to have fond memories of their homes here in Taiwan. 

And fortunately they have since been able to return to see their homeland as well as the friends they made while here.

Yoshino Shrine (吉野慶修院)

Ok, so it took a while to get here, but finally, the main subject of this article, the Yoshino Shingon Buddhist Temple (真言宗吉野布教所), better known today as Qingxiu Temple (慶修院). 

Often described as “Taiwan’s most well-preserved Buddhist Temple” (臺灣現存最完整的日式寺院), the recently restored shrine has become an extremely popular tourist attraction over the past few years.

I’d expect that Beitou’s Puji Temple (普濟寺) and Taipei’s Huguo Rinzai Temple (臨濟護國禪寺), and a few others around the country might beg to differ, with those bold claims above. 

Constructed as an overseas branch of Koyasan’s Kongobuji Temple (高野山金剛峰寺), the head branch of Japan’s Shingon Buddhism sect (真言宗), the “Yoshino Centre for the Dissemination of Shingon Buddhism” (真言宗吉野布教所) was established in 1917 (大正6年) to work hand-in-hand with the nearby Yoshino Shinto Shrine in serving the religious needs of the community. 

When the temple was first constructed however, it was forced to serve several different functions due to the lack of resources in the village at that time. Not only was it a Buddhist temple, it was also used as a medical facility, a funeral home and a school.

So not only was it helping the immigrants seek inner peace, it was also performing very practical functions as well.  

Fortunately, when the colonial era ended, the Chinese Nationalists uncharacteristically showed mercy and didn’t tear it down like they did the neighboring Shinto Shrine.

In 1948 (民國37年) the Main Hall of the shrine was converted into one that better suited the needs of Chinese Buddhists, with statues of Shakyamuni Buddha (釋迦牟尼佛) and Guanyin (觀音菩薩).

Although we’re fortunate that the temple wasn’t torn down, it did fall into a state of disrepair for quite some time and repairs were made in 1964 and again later in 1972, but were ultimately inadequate for dealing with the structural issues that required attention.

In 1997 (民國86年), the temple was recognized as a county-level historic property (縣定三級古蹟), which gave it a protected status and ensured that money would be allocated for its restoration.

Restoration started shortly after and after a long period of closure, the shrine re-opened to the public in 2003 with the entire grounds meticulously restored to how it would have appeared during the Japanese era. 

Today the Yoshino Shrine is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hualien and for those Wansei who come back to visit Taiwan, it is surely a sight for sore eyes.

Below, I’ll go into more detail about each of the important parts of the shrine: 

Main Gate (山門)

The Main Gate of the shrine, literally the “Mountain Gate” (山門) is a traditional style gate that meets with the “tamagaki”, or the sacred wall that encircles the perimeter of the complex.

The gate is so beautiful that you’ll probably have to line up to get photos in front of it. 

The gate is arguably one of the most authentic Japanese-style gates in Taiwan and its design is characterized by its simplicity. Above the gate you’ll find a Japanese style eaved roof with a plaque in the middle that reads “Qingxiu Temple” (慶修院).

Hung below that you’ll find a “shimenawa” (標縄), otherwise known as a “sacred rope” decorated with braided paper streamers named “shide” (紙垂). 

Depending on the time of the year that you’ll visit you’ll likely also find two large paper lanterns with the name of the shrine on them. You might also find a purple banner (門幕) hanging in the middle which displays two important icons that identify the temple. 

Main Hall (正殿佛堂)

From top to bottom, the century-old Main Hall of the Yoshino Shrine is quite unique in Taiwan with regard to its architectural design.

The single room building is constructed almost entirely of wood and features a beautiful double-layered roof, held up thanks to the genius of Japanese architectural design.

From the outside, the building is elevated off the ground with a ‘hisashi’ (廂) veranda that reaches around the sides of the building in the shape of a “U”,  and likewise has beautiful windows on the same three sides, allowing for beautiful natural light to enter the building.

The interior of the building is measured by Japanese standards and is three ‘ken’ (間) wide and four ‘ken’ in length (面寬3間、進深4間), which translates to a space of around 39.96 square meters.

As you’d expect with a Buddhist temple like this, the interior is decorated quite simply with tatami mats on the floor and shrines against the back wall. While inside, there really isn’t that much to see, but thats the point of a temple like this, as it is supposed to be a simple space where you’re able to relax and free your mind.

Having a bunch of things to focus on doesn’t really help with that.

The roof of the building is probably one of the most unique aspects of its architectural design as it features the typical Japanese style ‘hip-and-gable’ roof that you’ll find on other Japanese style buildings, but in this case we have a double-layered, four-sided roof. 

In temples constructed in this specific hip-and-gable style known as irimoya-zukuri (入母屋造), the ‘gabled’ part of the roof (the upper layer) covers the ‘moya’ (母屋), or the interior of the building, while the ‘hipped’ part (the lower portion), covers the veranda and protrudes further beyond on each of the four sides.  

While the ‘hisashi’ veranda appears functional, its main purpose is actually to help reinforce the roof with an extra row of pillars, distributing its weight more evenly and also preventing the roof from caving in during an earthquake or a typhoon.  

In most cases, these Japanese-era temples in Taiwan put a lot of emphasis on the design on the front facade of the building, but the sides and the rear rarely ever receive the same amount of attention, which is what makes this one special.

Even though the roof only appears to be double-layered, its all part of the three dimensional design that Japanese architecture has mastered. 

Originally, the main deity in enshrined within the Main Hall was “Acala”, however when the Chinese Nationalists took control of Taiwan, it was replaced with figures more representative of Chinese Buddhism. Now that the shrine has been restored, we can see a shrine set up to the founder of Shingon Buddhism, Kobo Daishi (弘法大師) or Kukai (空海).

Links: Kobo Daishi (Wikipedia) | Kukai Kobo Daishi (Japan Visitor)

You might be wondering why the original shrine to Acala wasn’t put back in place when the shrine was restored. That’s actually an easy answer - Acala is a popular Buddhist figure in Japan, and other parts of Asia, but here in Taiwan is lesser known. 

(I’ll talk about Acala a bit more later)

Kobo Daishi however is someone that most people are aware of, so placing the founder of the sect in the main shrine seems like a pretty good compromise. 

One of the interesting things about this temple are the curtain/banners (御神幕) hanging at the front door. In Taiwan, when you arrive at a shrine, you can typically tell who is inside by the plaque that is placed above the door and the name of the temple.

Japanese places of worship however are quite different and knowing who you’ll find inside can be a little difficult for the uninitiated.

In this case we have two different emblems on the door, which have a very important meaning with regard to this temple, but is something that is generally missed by almost everyone who visits. 

In Japan, these banners are generally always white, unless it is a special occasion when they’re changed to purple. A white curtain here in Taiwan though is something that would scare people away (funeral-related) and would be bad for business. So let’s just say that everyday is a special occasion here in Taiwan and we use purple year-round!

On the left you’ll find the “Kirimon” while on the right you’ll find the “Hidari Gomon”, but what do they mean and why are they there? 

The Koyasan Shingon sect of Buddhism uses the Hidari Gomon (三つ巴) on banners that identify its temples. The Japanese for the symbol translates literally as “Three Commas”, and the design is likened to the mythic three-legged crow Yatagarasu  (八咫烏).

In this case, the “tomoe” (鞆絵/巴) is similar in design to the Chinese “Taijitu” (太極圖), and is used as a visual representation of the Buddhist concept of the “cycle of life.” 

Note: The Hidari Gomon just so happens to also be the same emblem used to symbolize Okinawa (沖繩) and is featured predominately at shrines like the Futenma Shrine (普天滿宮) and Naminoue Shinto Shrine (波上宮), and you would have seen it at Shuri Castle (首里城) before it tragically burnt to the ground. 

The Kirimon (桐紋) is a symbol that the Shingon sect uses to identify Kobo Daishi, the founder of the sect and one of their most prolific figures. Like the emblem above, it also features predominately in Japan as a variation is used to represent the Governmental Seal of Japan (日本內閣總理大臣), known as the “Go-shichi no kiri” or the 5-7 Paulownia (五七桐), while the one used here is the “Go-san no kiri” or the 5-3 Paulownia (五三桐). The only difference between them the variation on the number of petals featured on each of the emblems. 

Acala

To the right of the Main Hall you’ll find a one meter tall stone statue of Acala (不動明王), who is the deity who was previously enshrined at the temple prior to the Chinese Nationalists arrival in Taiwan.

Acala, who is also known as “Fudo Myoo” or the “Immovable Lord” is a wrathful deity who often appears demon-like in his iconography, but is known as the ‘Protector of the Dharma’ and is one of the most important figures in Shingon Buddhism, apart from the founder.

Link: Acala (Wikipedia)

Don’t let the fact that Acala appears somewhat frightening fool you, his purpose is to use his power to help spread wisdom and compassion and only appears that way in order to better combat evil forces!  

Before I move on, I think it’s important to take a minute to talk about the restoration process of the Main Hall, which today is slightly different than it appeared several decades ago, as well as when it was originally constructed.

In the years after the colonial era, the main hall was expanded upon to include rooms to the side, which ultimately changed the shape of the building, and required an alteration to the roof. 

When the building was restored, these additions were removed and the building was (for the most part) restored to its original design. However the back side of the building has been reinforced with modern construction materials in order to secure it from the constant threat of earthquakes that occur so frequently on the East Coast.

The changes to the building aren’t all that noticeable, but have been done in a way that ensures that we’ll be able to enjoy this one for many years to come. 

The Hyakudoishi Stone (百度石)

The one meter tall ‘Hyakudoishi Stone’ stands directly in front of the Main Hall and is part of a Japanese tradition that acts as a location marker for the temple. 

According to tradition, if you’ve visited the temple and prayed for something, you should walk back and forth from the Main Hall and the stone a hundred times in order to show your devotion.

Likewise, if that wish comes true, you should return and complete the same task a thousand times to show your appreciation. 

The Mantra of Light Stone (光明真言百萬遍石碑)

The Mantra of Light Stone is an important part of this shrine and is something that you will generally find at almost every Shingon Buddhist Temple.

The stone is a tool used in Buddhist practice that requires practitioners to chant: “Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo” (南無大師遍照金剛) at least 108 times if they want a wish to come true.

For hardcore practitioners of Shingon, the mantra needs to be chanted at least a million times in their lifetime. 

This specific stone however is thought to have special healing powers and according to local legend, chronic illnesses could be cured by carrying out the ritual mentioned above.

This could very well have originated due to the fact that the shrine was once home to a medical clinic that served the medical needs of the local community.

Nevertheless, the stone has been an important part of the shrine for more than a century, so its continued existence is quite important.  

You’ll probably have noticed from both of these stones that a lot of exercise is required! 

Eighty-Eight Stone Buddha Statues (88尊石佛) 

Located against the southern and western walls of the temple, you’ll find a beautiful display of eighty-eight Buddha statues, which has been wonderfully restored. The number ‘eight’ is a special one in Buddhism and in this case the number “88” in this case represents the various types of Anxiety (煩惱) and Willpower (願力), that are a part of of Kobo Daishi’s teachings.

As mentioned above, this temple is a branch of the Koysan temple back in Japan, but when the immigrants first started arriving in Taiwan, many of them got sick and life was hard.

In order to improve these conditions, some went back to Japan and completed the iconic Shikoku Pilgrimage (四國遍路), which takes more than a month and requires visiting the 88 temples associated with Kobo Daishi on Shikoku Island.

Upon completion of the 1200 kilometer pilgrimage, they brought back with them these 88 statues, each of which from a specific temple, to help the people of Yoshino have a better life. 

Each of the statues features a number, a prayer and the name of the temple where it hails from.

Apart from the Main Hall itself, this is probably the most popular part of the temple and you’ll often find people paying close attention to each of the Buddha’s and the name of the temple they hail from.

You’ll also find quite a few people writing wishes on traditional wooden plaques named ema (絵馬), which are hung nearby and are received by the eighty-eight Buddhas.

Yoshino Shinto Shrine (吉野神社)

When immigrants from Japan started to arrive in Yoshino Village around 1910 (明治43年), most of the basics had already been set up for them, but one of the things that was missing was a Shinto Shrine to take care of their religious needs. 

At that time, not even the Hualien Shinto Shrine (花蓮港神社) had been constructed, so in order to help out, the Governors General Office in the capital purchased a plot of land from the local Makutaay Tribe (瑪谷達璦部落) to construct one. 

Even though Yoshino Village had already been established, the government had to purchase a separate plot of land from the local indigenous people due to the fact that according to Shinto Tradition, larger shrines are generally constructed outside of residential areas in order to maintain the sanctity of the sacred space housed within. 

Link: Architecture and Sacred Spaces in Shinto (UC Berkeley) 

Construction on the Yoshino Shinto Shrine started in January of 1912 (明治45年) and was surprisingly (and extremely efficiently) completed a few months later on May 30th as a branch shrine of the Taiwan Shinto Shrine (台灣神宮 / たいわんじんぐう) in Taipei. 

Note: The Taiwan Shinto Shrine was constructed on the side of Jiantan Mountain where the Yuanshan Grand Hotel (圓山大飯店) is currently located. 

The interesting thing about the Yoshino Shrine is that even though it was never meant to be a Prefectural Level-sized shrine, it was still a large one by the standards of that time and was considered to be one of the ‘three most important shrines on the east coast’ (東台灣三大神社) along with the Hualien Prefectural Shrine and the Taitung Prefectural Shrine (台東神社).

Although information about the overall design of the shrine is limited, from the historic photos it would seem that the shrine consisted of the following: 

  1. A large gate or “torii” (鳥居)

  2. A walking path or “sando” (參道)

  3. Stone Lanterns or “toro” (石燈籠)

  4. An Administration Office or “shamusho” (社務所)

  5. A Purification Fountain or “chozuya” (手水舍)

  6. Stone Guardians or “komainu” (狛犬)

  7. A Hall of Worship or “haiden” (拜殿)

  8. A Main Hall or “honden” (本殿)

Considering the fact that the shrine was a branch of the Taiwan Shinto Shrine, and as was the case with most of Taiwan’s other shrines, the kami enshrined within were all familiar figures which included the Three Deities of Cultivation and Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa.

Unfortunately it’s unclear as to when the Yoshino Shrine was torn down, but when the colonial era ended, the land was used for the construction of military villages, so it is safe to assume that the shrine disappeared in the late 1940s as Hualien was an important location for the Air Force.  

The Military Villages (眷村) constructed on the land where the shrine was located were only ever meant to be temporary lodgings for members of the armed forces, however when it became clear that the ROC wasn’t going to be able to “Retake the Mainland” as they hoped, families eventually started to disperse in order to live a more comfortable life. 

The Military Villages where the shrine was located have since been torn down and part of the land is currently used as a Hakka Cultural Park (吉安好客藝術村).

Even though the park is an arts centre for the local Hakka people, the buildings constructed on site pay homage to the former shrine and attempts have been made to showcase the original landscape design of the former shrine. 

Today all that remains of the original shrine are some memorial stones, ruined lanterns and a reconstruction of the purification fountain.

Still, the area is quite beautiful and the Hakka culture centre is well worth a visit. Likewise, the downtown area of Jian is nice for a walk as you’ll find quite a few houses and buildings left over from the colonial era.

Getting There 

 

Ji-an village is conveniently located just outside of the Hualien city, but with that being said, Hualien is quite large and there is a considerably distance between the city and Ji-an.

Likewise the two shrines aren’t all that close, so getting there could either be quite simple, or a bit tedious depending on your means of transportation.

If you’ve got a car or a scooter, there shouldn’t be much of an issue, especially if you’re travelling from Hualien city, which is a rather straight-forward route.

Simply input one of the addresses (or GPS coordinates) provided below into your GPS or Google Maps and you won’t have any problem. 

Ji-An Qingxiu Temple 

Address: #345-1, Zhongxing Road, Ji’an Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣吉安鄉中興路345-1號) 

GPS: 121.56474, 23.97370

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday, 8:30am - 5:00pm 

Admission: Adult: 30NT, Children/Senior: 15NT, Group: 20NT

Yoshino Shinto Shrine

Address: #477 Zhongshan Road, Sec 3, Ji’an Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣吉安鄉中山路三段477號)

GPS: 121.567120, 23.979840

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday, 9:00am - 4:00pm

Admission: Free of Charge. 

If on the other hand you’re relying on public transportation, getting there becomes a little more tedious, but shouldn’t really pose much of a problem for most travellers.

  • Train

You can take a Local Train (區間車) headed south from Hualien Station and once you’ve arrived at Ji-an Station (吉安車站), from there you can either grab a taxi or simply walk to the shrine, which is about two kilometres away. The route to the shrine isn’t that confusing, so if you walk, you probably won’t get lost. 

  • Bus

From Hualien Train Station you have to option of taking two different buses. Hualien Bus (花蓮客運) #1131 or Taiwan Tourist Shuttle (台灣好行) #303. 

  1. Hualien Bus (花蓮客運) #1131 - From Hualien Station -> Ji’an Township Office (吉安鄉公所)

  2. Taiwan Tourist Shuttle (台灣好行) #303 - From Hualien Station directly to the shrine.

While the second option might seem to be the most convenient, I’d caution that the bus doesn’t come all that often, so if you’re hoping to get on this one, I recommend making sure when the bus leaves from Hualien and heads back, so that you don’t end up missing it. 

The other bus may require a short walk from the Ji-an Township Office, but it is a considerably shorter walk than the walk from the train station, which should save some time as it comes much more frequently and is more reliable.  

To tell the truth, when I started writing this article, I figured I could write a simple introduction to the Yoshino Buddhist Temple and then quickly move on to write about some of the other places I visited during my several-week long trip to the East Coast.

Unfortunately the rabbit hole I fell down while researching this one was so deep that I ended up churning out this long-winded deep dive into the interesting history of Yoshino Village.

For that I apologize. 

Nevertheless, this is a topic that isn’t covered very well in the English language, so I hope that if you’ve read this far, that you’ve been able to learn about this important piece of Taiwanese history, and that it has sparked an interest to keep learning about it like I do. 



Luye Shinto Shrine (鹿野神社)

One of the most popular Taiwanese films to come out in recent years was the movie “Kano”, which told the story of an historic Taiwanese high school baseball team that participated in the Koshien Baseball Tournament in Japan and was one of those underdog sports stories that captivated audiences.

It also helped to rekindle a nations love for its national sport, which just years before had been embroiled in so many corruption scandals that people started losing interest.

The Kano Baseball Team (嘉農野球部) from central Taiwan’s Chiayi (嘉義) was a ragtag group of Hoklo, Hakka, Indigenous and Japanese players, who received little to no respect but ended up becoming the biggest surprise of Japan’s national baseball championships in 1931. 

Link: Japanese High School Baseball Championship (Wiki) 

While audiences loved the movie, there was a bit of confusion regarding its title.

Quite a few wondered aloud how a local movie could come out without a Chinese language title. 

They also wondered what “Kano” meant. 

Talk show hosts and commentators around the country tried to explain that the name was a reflection of the Japanese Colonial Era for which the movie was based.

This led not only to a renewed love of baseball, but also increased interest in learning more about that period of Taiwan’s history, which to be honest, isn’t covered all that well in the local school system. 

While it was great that the movie, which was critically successful at Taiwan’s box office, was doing such a great job creating a renewed interest about Taiwan’s history and baseball, there was still quite a bit of confusion about the word “Kano.” 

This is because not only was there a baseball team named “Kano”, there was also a town that shared the same name.

The baseball team was made up of students from the Kagi Agricultural and Forestry School (嘉義農林學校野), located in the central Taiwanese city that we know today as Chiayi, which was then known as Kagi.  

In Japanese, the mixture of the words “Chia” (嘉) and “Nong” (農) went together to make the abbreviation “Kano” (嘉農), which is admittedly a lot easier to say than the full name. 

Meanwhile the other “Kano” was a town on the East Coast, known today as “Luye” (鹿野) which, much like Yoshino Village in Hualien, was a Japanese immigrant farming community, just outside of Taitung city. 

Even though both were pronounced “Kano” in Japanese, they were completely different. 

There was however a relation between the two that a lot of people missed.  

Due to Taitung’s remoteness in the early years of the Colonial Era, some of the stars of the Kano Baseball team were Indigenous peoples from “Kano” who had left their homes to study as well as play baseball. 

Link: Taiwanese “Kano” Baseball Team Found its Field of Dreams (Nippon) 

In fact, the Luye-Shikano area has a long and successful history with baseball and from the elementary school level all that way to professional sports, the village has produced quite a few stars over the past century.

Today I’m not here to talk about baseball, I’m here to introduce a historic Shinto Shrine that was used as the central place of worship for that village, the Shikano Shinto Shrine

Before I talk about the shrine though, I’m going to take a few moments to introduce a little about the history of the immigrant community that made up most of what we know as Luye today.

Shikano Immigrant Village (鹿野移民村)

Kano Shinto Shrine

Kano Shinto Shrine

When the Japanese Colonial Era was established in 1895, the vast majority of Japanese who initially came to Taiwan were members of the Armed Forces, civil servants and engineers. Tasked with suppressing opposition to colonial rule and stabilizing the island, the first waves of Japanese citizens came here with the intent to prepare Taiwan for mass development and future colonization.

Prior to the arrival of the Japanese, it would be an understatement to say that Taiwan was an untapped treasure - The Hoklo, Hakka and Indigenous people who had inhabited the island up until that point were mostly subsistence farmers, who gave little thought to developing the island in a centralized way, apart from ensuring their own livelihoods.  

For the Japanese, Taiwan was a treasure trove of resources that would be instrumental in fueling the expansion of their empire.

First though, Taiwan, their model colony would have to be tamed. 

Luye Police Station (鹿野派出所)

Luye Police Station (鹿野派出所)

After more than a decade of development, the powers that be decided that it was time to start an emigration process that would allow Japanese citizens to come to Taiwan and settle on land provided for them.

The thought process behind this was that Taiwan was in need of an influx of a different class of immigrant as there was a need for agricultural workers as well as people who could contribute to the various mining and forestry industries (among others.)

One of the interesting things about these communities was that their development could be either public or private, which meant that some of them were planned by the government, while others were privately sponsored by some of the larger corporations that came to Taiwan.

Even though the vast majority of the communities ended up being occupied by farmers, there were also others that were developed for miners, fishers, forestry and industrial workers.

Kano Elementary School (鹿野公學校)

Kano Elementary School (鹿野公學校)

The more nefarious reason as to why the government instituted this kind of immigration policy was to start importing boat-loads of lower-class Japanese citizens, who would eventually outnumber the original inhabitants of the island in an attempt at settler colonialism in an attempt to fast-track the assimilation process.

This policy was also considered beneficial to the government back at home in Japan as the country was quickly modernizing and discovered that there was a surplus of farmers and an increasingly limited amount of land for them to farm on. 

So, with an opportunity to make a new life in Taiwan, which included a great package of incentives, the waiting-list of Japanese citizens wishing to start a new life here was likely quite long. 

The ‘immigrant community’ (移民村) policy started in 1908 (明治41年), with the first official community established in Karenko Prefecture, known today as Hualien. 

The success of the first of these communities, known as Yoshino Village (吉野村), gave the government the incentive to continue establishing further communities along the east coast with several more established between 1912 and 1932. 

From Yoshino Village in Hualien, villages started popping up further south with Toyota Village (豐田移民村), Hayashita Village (林田移民村), Yoshita Village (賀田), Ikegami Village (池上) and most importantly for the sake of this article, Shikano (鹿野).

Kano Family Photo

Kano Family Photo

In 1915 (大正4年), the Shikano Immigrant Village was established by the Taitung Sugar Corporation (台東製糖株式會社) as a private community in the area we know today as Longtian Village (龍田村).

Initially a hundred lower-class families from Niigata Prefecture (新潟縣) on the western coast of Japan were invited and later that year the village expanded again to over four hundred families.

This technically made it the largest immigrant village in Taitung, with a population of around 1500 people. 

One of the things to keep in mind about this specific immigrant village though was that the majority of the residents were considered “short term” (短期移民) and came specifically to work in the sugar industry every year from November to April. Therefore the number of families living in the village wasn’t a constant, with the numbers changing at different times of the year. 

When the short-term seasonal worker situation was resolved, the population of the village eventually started to decline with only about 143 households (547 people) in 1919 (大正8年) and even less than half of that by 1943 (昭和18年). 

Still, even though Kano was a privately planned community, it came complete with schools, a hospital, an administrative centre, train station, a downtown core and of course a Shinto Shrine.

Today, not only are we able to enjoy the fully restored Shinto Shrine, but several other buildings from the colonial era as well as Japanese-style urban planning, which has become quite popular with contemporary Taiwanese who enjoy the large open spaces with wide tree-lined roads.

Visiting the former immigrant village these days gives people a diverse look into Taiwan’s modern history while also allowing you to imagine that you’re visiting the Japanese countryside!  

Shikano Shinto Shrine (鹿野神社)

Surprisingly, the Kano Shinto Shrine, or the “Luye Shinto Shrine” as we call it today wasn’t actually constructed until almost a decade after the Kano Immigrant Village was established.

When immigrants first started arriving in Taito Prefecture (台東廳), the closest place of worship would have been the Taitung Shinto Shrine, which at the time was probably all they needed considering that the majority of them were sponsored by the Taitung Sugar Corporation, which was located nearby the original Taito Shinto Shrine. 

Fortunately, by the time that the Taito Shinto Shrine became a Prefectural Shrine (縣社) and was moved to Liyu Mountain (on the other side of Taitung City), the Kano Shinto Shrine had already been established.

Officially opened on July 10th, 1923 (大正12年), the Kano Shinto Shrine was much smaller in scale than the Taitung Shrine and was classified as a “Mukaku-sha” (無格社) or a Village Shrine (社祠) without ranking by the official Shakaku (社格) Shrine Grading System.

Link: Modern system of ranked Shinto shrines (Wiki)

While it may sound a bit harsh that the shrine had no ranking, that was common for the vast majority of the two hundred of more shrines constructed in Taiwan during the Colonial Era, of which Taitung itself was home to around fifty.

Originally constructed in the northern area of the village in a valley between the Luye Plateau (鹿野高台) and Horseback Mountain (馬背山), it’s location proved somewhat problematic as it wasn’t very convenient for the vast majority of the villagers given that it was at least a three kilometer walk from the train station.

So, in 1931 (昭和6年), the shrine was relocated to its current location next to Kunci Hall (崑慈堂), which was ideal as it was a short walk from the Elementary School.

As a smaller shrine, the Kano Shinto Shrine only consisted of the following: 

  1. A large gate or “torii” (鳥居)

  2. A walking path or “sando” (參道)

  3. Stone Lanterns or “toro” (石燈籠)

  4. A Purification Fountain or “chozuya” (手水舍)

  5. Stone Guardians or “komainu” (狛犬)

  6. A Main Hall or “honden” (本殿)

Given its size, the Kano Shrine wasn’t home to a Hall of Worship (拜殿), so in this case, as a Hokora-style (祠 / ほこら) shrine, we’re actually able to approach the Main Hall, otherwise known as the Honden (本殿) and get a good look at its architecture.

Back in Japan, Shinto Shrines come in all shapes and sizes and for shrines like this one, you’re always able to get a good look at the architecture of the Main Hall. It’s important to note though that with most of the larger shrines (like some of those that still exist in some form in Taiwan), the general public is rarely ever able to get a good look at the Main Hall as it is considered a sacred-space.

The best example that we have here in Taiwan of an original ‘Haiden’ and ‘Honden’ in its original condition is at the Taoyuan Martyrs Shrine, where you’re currently able to approach the rear of the shrine, which was at one time only ever frequented by the priests who took care of the shrine. 

Where the Kano Shinto Shrine stands apart from the other shrines that have been preserved in Taiwan is that you can easily examine it’s architectural design, which gives away some obvious clues about the shrine to those who are in the know about these small details.  

In this case, the Main Hall is designed in the ancient ‘Taisha-zukuri’ (大社造) style, which indicates that the building is elevated off the ground, usually by stilts, but in this case on a concrete base.

The current base of the shrine is the original one from 1931, which makes it the only original part of the shrine that still remains today. 

Like a lot of Japanese-style shrines, the roof of the building is considerably larger than its base.

Part of the genius of Japanese design is that the building, known as the moya (母屋) couldn’t possibly support the weight of the roof on its own, but thanks to a network of joints and trusses and the help of pillars along the veranda, the building is able to withstand the weight and ensure years of stability. 

Often going hand-in-hand with the elevated design of the building, the shrine makes use of the gabled kirizuma-zukuri (切妻造) style of roof.

This style differs from the typical four sided hip-and-gable style of roof that you would find at other Japanese-style buildings and consists only of two inclined surfaces on the front and back that form a ridge at the top.

Essentially, it’s meant to look like a book that is resting with its cover facing up.

In order to stabilize the roof and distribute its weight, there are two large pillars to the left and the right of the building that are kept in place by the cement base below. Both of the pillars are quite thick and have been crafted with cypress, like the rest of the building, which is known for its sturdiness.

Another important aspect of the design to pay attention to are the katsuogi (鰹木/かつおぎ) and chigi (千木) ornaments on the roof.

To the naked eye, they may just seem unimportant, but they have traditionally been used to differentiate Shinto Shrines from Buddhist Temples in Japan as well as indicating the ‘kami’ that are enshrined within.

The katsuogi are the long timber-like pieces of wood that rest on the flat base of the roof.

An even number indicates a female divinity while an odd number signifies a male.

In the case of this shrine, there are five of them, meaning that the kami enshrined within are male.  

Likewise the ‘chigi’ can be cut either horizontally or vertically, known as uchi-sogi (内削ぎ) and soto-sogi (外削ぎ) respectively.

How they’re cut likewise indicates the kami within, so It should then be no surprise that the ‘chigi’ at this shrine are cut vertically in the ‘uchi-soto’ style as the katsuogi mentioned above already indicates a male divinity. 

The chigi on the building are practically decorated with kazana (風穴), which are decorative holes in the tips of the finial, which allow for the passage of wind and for the stabilization of the roof.

Links: Katsuogi | Chigi (Wiki)

Currently the only pieces of the shrine that exist on the site today apart from the shrine itself are a couple of lanterns, an unfinished purification fountain and a shrine gate. 

Deities 

As was the case with most of Taiwan’s other shrines during the colonial era, the kami enshrined within were all familiar figures, which included the Three Deities of Cultivation and Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa.

The ‘Three Deities of Cultivation’ (かいたくさんじん / 開拓三神), consist of three mythic figures known for their skills with regard to nation-building, farming, business and medicine. 

The three gods are as follows:  

  1. Ōkunitama (大國魂大神 / おおくにたまのかみ)

  2. Ōkuninushi (大名牟遲大神 / おおなむちのかみ)

  3. Sukunabikona (少彥名大神 / すくなひこなのかみ)

The first mention of these deities was in the ‘Birth of the Gods’ (神生み) section of one of Japan’s most important books, the ‘Kojiki’ (古事記), or “Records of Ancient Matters”, a thirteen-century old chronicle of myths, legends and early accounts of Japanese history, which were later appropriated into Shintoism. 

While these three deities date back well-over a thousand years, the other one that was enshrined within the Taitung Shinto Shrine was a considerably younger one. 

In fact, most of the over two hundred Shinto Shrines constructed in Taiwan during the colonial era, most were home to shrines dedicated to Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (北白川宮能久親王) 

Prince Yoshihisa had the unfortunate luck of being the first member of the Japanese royal family to pass away while outside of Japan - in more than nine hundred years.

The reason why his worship is so prevalent here in Taiwan is due to the fact that it is believed he died of malaria while on military campaign in Tainan in 1895.

Although it is also thought that he might have been shot by Taiwanese guerrillas on a mountain in Hsinchu.

Link: Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (Wiki) 

Restoration 

Suffice to say, when the Colonial Era ended in 1945 and the Japanese residents of Taiwan were sent back to Japan, this shrine, like so many others around Taiwan didn’t last very long.

Given its location, especially with regard to the locals schools, the Chinese Nationalists didn’t waste my time tearing it down as it would have been considered an obstacle to their authority.

Interestingly, even though the shrine was destroyed, the name of the village was never changed.

Instead of referring to it as ‘Kano’ in Japanese, it was simply changed to ‘Luye’, the Chinese pronunciation of the same Chinese characters. 

After the shrine was destroyed, not much happened on the land where it existed save for the construction of a Chinese temple named Kunci Hall. The temple later constructed a pavilion on the concrete base where the shrine used to exist, but for the most part nature took its course and reclaimed the area. 

In 2013, the local government in conjunction with the Ministry of Transportation (交通部) and the Tourism Bureau (観光局) started a two-year process of research and planning that sought a partnership with craftsmen in Japan to recreate and restore the Shinto Shrine to its original condition. 

Oddly, the only stipulation was that once the shrine was completed, that it not house any deity and it be used only for tourism-related purposes.

So even though the Luye Shinto Shrine today appears to be a ‘shrine’, you’d be wasting your time clapping your hands and praying in front of it as the deities never actually returned to their original home.

The most important fact that I could tell you about the reconstruction of this shrine is that when it was being restored, the Taiwanese government contracted a very elite group of carpenters in Japan, known as Miyadaiku (宮大工).

These carpenters have been honing their craft for well over a millennium and are masters at construction techniques that doesn’t use nails, screws, glue or electric tools.

Everything is hand-made, and like a puzzle, it all fits together thanks to a genius network of wooden joints. 

Link: Japanese Carpentry | 宮大工 (Wiki)

The unfortunate thing about this specialized style of Japanese carpentry is that it is something of a dying art. There are less than a hundred Miyadaiku carpenters still practicing their trade in Japan today and its an art form that is sadly on the brink of dying out within the next few decades.

One last thing I should note is that even though reconstruction on the shrine was “completed” in 2015, construction on the site is on-going with restoration still taking place on the purification fountain as well as on the landscape that surrounds the shrine. 

If you’ve seen photos of the shrine elsewhere on the internet, the environment surrounding the shrine probably seems completely different than what you’ve seen here as the local government continues to enhance the site. I was personally quite surprised when I showed up to check it out as the background didn’t appear to be even remotely similar to what I had seen prior to my arrival.

Nevertheless, the Kano Shinto Shrine is alive again and its existence is a great reminder of the history of this beautiful little tourist village on the east coast of Taiwan. 

Getting There 

 

Luye is a large township situated just outside of Taitung City and Longtan Village (龍田村), where the shrine is located, is probably one of the most popular areas to visit for tourists. 

Even though the shrine is a bit of a distance from Taitung City, getting there is rather straight-forward and once you’re there you’ll also be able to visit some of the other nearby attractions, which most likely means the famed Luye Plateau (鹿野高台), where the Taitung Hot Air Balloon festival takes place every year.

If you have your own means of transportation, getting to the shrine shouldn’t be much of an issue, but even if you don’t, there are more than enough public transportation options to help. 

If you’re driving a car or a scooter, simply input the address or coordinates below into your GPS or Google Maps, and you’ll find yourself there after a beautiful drive through the Taitung countryside.   

Address: No. 308, Guangrong Road, Luye Township, Taitung County.

(台東縣鹿野鄉光榮路308號)

GPS: 121.120620, 22.904150

If on the other-hand you’re relying on the public transportation option, you’ll have a number of options, but will have to keep in mind that you’ll likely have to walk a few kilometres to get to the shrine from the train station or the bus stop. 

Train

No matter if you’re coming from the north or the south, you’ll have to hop on a Local Train (區間車) and ride until you reach Luye Train Station (鹿野車站), where you’ll get off and make your way to the shrine from there. 

Bus

Taitung Bus (台東客運): #8161, 8163, 8165, 8166, 8167, 8168, 8170

For each of these buses (as well as the train), you’ll get off at Luye Train Station and from there the shrine is about a 2.5km walk passing by Longtan Park (龍田公園) and following Guangrong Road (光榮路) until you reach the shrine.

Even though it seems like a long walk, the road is absolutely beautiful and you’ll see quite a few historic buildings along the way. 

Taiwan Tour Bus (台灣好行): Luye Line (鹿野線)

This bus is probably the most convenient in terms of travel as it will bring you directly to the shrine where you’ll get off at the Kunci Temple (崑慈堂) bus stop. The only problem with this bus is that it doesn’t come all that frequently, so you’ll end up wasting a long time waiting for it to show up which pretty much makes the other bus options much more attractive.

Bicycle 

One of the most popular activities for tourists visiting Longtian Village is to take the bus or train to Luye Station and from there renting a bicycle from one of the many nearby vendors.

Renting a bicycle at one of these shops allows you to skip the long walk to the shrine and also allows you to enjoy some of the other attractive destinations in the area.

I’m not going to promote any of the specific vendors, but all of the prices should be relatively similar and the rental of a bicycle shouldn’t cost you any more than $100-200NT for the day, depending on the size of the bike you rent.

While in town, don’t forget to check out the nearby Luye Plateau (鹿野高台), the Longtian Green Corridor (龍田綠色隧道), the Tung Blossom Avenue (龍田桐花大道) as well as the various other Japanese era homes that are still located in the area.

If you’re lucky enough to be in town during the hot air balloon festival, you’ll be sure to have a great time as its one of the most popular times of the year to visit the area. 

The Luye Shinto Shrine is an excellent example of how Taiwan’s former Shinto Shrines can and should be restored. With the help of Japanese craftsmen, the shrine has been brought to life once again and even though it could be considered to be in a remote location, it has become one of Taitung’s most popular tourist attractions. With that in mind, I’m sure there are quite a few local governments around Taiwan thinking about following the same formula, which could possibly translate into even more reappearing over the next few years! 

Footnotes

  1. 鹿野神社 - 鹿野移民村神社 (神社殘跡)

  2. 日本移民村 (Encyclopedia of Taiwan)

  3. 台灣日治時期日本移民村 (Wiki) 

  4. 台灣神社列表 (Wiki)

  5. Taitung Japanese Immigrants Village - Longtian Village (Hakka Affairs Council)

  6. 神社の千木と鰹木の意味

  7. “Honden”: The Main Sanctuary Structure (Nippon)

  8. Modern system of ranked Shinto shrines | 近代社格制度 (Wiki)

  9. 台湾で完全な形で復元された「鹿野神社」が台東縣にあります (Meilytaiwan)

  10. 歲月的容顏 龍田老照片 龍田蝴蝶協會提供 (龍田歲月)


Hualien Martyrs Shrine (花蓮忠烈祠)

Here we go again. 

This is my fourth go at posting about Taiwan’s Martyrs Shrines this year. 

As I’ve already mentioned a few times over the past few months, when I was considering where I would focus as part of my yearly project for this blog, I came up with the idea to continue my work with regard to places of interest from the Japanese Colonial Era. 

Albeit with a bit of a caveat. 

I decided that I’d make a concerted effort to visit some of the various “Martyrs Shrines” around Taiwan, which were originally home to a Shinto Shrine.

It might be difficult to imagine, but Taiwan was once home to well-over two hundred Shinto Shrines. 

However, as the Japanese colonial regime was replaced by the “Republic of China”, the majority of the them ended up being destroyed, with only a select few of the larger ones retaining a semblance of their former selves. 

In my post about the National Revolutionary Martyrs Shrine (台北忠烈祠) in Taipei, I listed fifteen of these former Shinto Shrines scattered throughout Taiwan (and on Penghu) that continue to exist in some form today.

Some of which I’ve already posted about: 

  1. National Revolutionary Martyrs Shrine (國民革命忠烈祠)

  2. New Taipei City Martyrs Shrine (新北市忠烈祠)

  3. Taoyuan Martyrs Shrine (桃園忠烈祠)

  4. Tungxiao Martyrs Shrine (通宵忠烈祠)

  5. Taichung Martyrs Shrine (台中忠烈祠)

  6. Changhua Martyrs Shrine (彰化忠烈祠)

  7. Yilan Martyrs Shrine (宜蘭忠烈祠)

  8. Taitung Martyrs Shrine (台東縣忠烈祠)

That’s eight, so if your math is good, you’ll probably realize that I still have seven to go! 

Even though 2020 has been a pretty terrible year with regard to travel, here in Taiwan we’ve been lucky that the government was proactive and on the ball, saving us from a massive outbreak of COVID-19.

But instead of taking trips overseas, many Taiwanese (and myself included) instead traveled around Taiwan to enjoy all that this beautiful country has to offer. 

I took a several-week trip to the South East Coast to visit some places that have been on my list for a long as well as saving some time to hang out and relax on a beach. Two of the places on my list to visit were two of the Martyrs Shrines that I haven’t been to yet, namely the Taitung shrine and the Hualien shrine. 

Suffice to say, one of the shrines ended up being extremely disappointing, while the other ended up being a really great experience. Today I’m going to introduce the latter of the two.  

The Hualien Martyrs Shrine isn’t what you’d consider a popular tourist attraction by any means, but it is one of the prettiest of all the Martyrs Shrines in Taiwan, and was once home to an even more beautiful Shinto Shrine.

Let me start by introducing that shrine!

Hualien Shinto Shrine (花蓮港神社)

The “Hualien Shinto Shrine”, otherwise known as Karenko Shrine (花蓮港神社) or “Karenko jinja” was a Prefectural Level (縣社) shrine that existed on this site from 1915 until 1981, when it was demolished to make way for the current Chinese-style Martyrs Shrine. 

The shrine was officially opened to the public on August 19th, 1915 (大正4年) and before becoming the central shrine in the prefecture, it was known simply as the “Hualien Harbour Shrine,” and just so happened to be one of the most architecturally significant shrines in Taiwan. 

When I say architecturally significant, its not because the shrine was constructed in a way that differed from any of the other shrines around Taiwan or those back in Japan, but because at the time it opened, if you wanted to visit, you had to walk across a suspension bridge over the Meilun River (美崙溪). 

Link: 花蓮市區內神社舊址導覽 (ARCGIS)

This would have made the traditional “Visiting Path” that you find at Shinto Shrines one of the longest in Taiwan and also would have provided some spectacular views of the shrine as you approached.

You’d likewise also would have had even better views of the city when you looked back from atop the hill. 

Fortunately the shrine was so beautiful that there are a multitude of historic photos from various sources around Taiwan that I’m able to share with you today. 

As always though, the former Shinto Shrine consisted of the following: 

  1. Two large Shrine Gates or “Torii” (鳥居)

  2. A walking path or “Sando” with a suspension bridge (參道)

  3. Stone Lanterns or “tōrō” (石燈籠) on either side of the walking path.

  4. Stone Guardian Lion-Dogs or “Komainu” (狛犬)

  5. An Administration Office or “Shamusho” (社務所)

  6. A Purification Fountain or “Chozuya” (手水舍)

  7. A Hall of Worship or “Haiden” (拜殿)

  8. A Main Hall or “Honden” (本殿).

As the largest shrine in Hualien, the shrine was officially designated a Ken-sha (縣社) or “Prefectural Level” shrine a few short years after it opened on March 2nd, 1921 (大正10年). 

As a Prefectural Level shrine, the ‘kami’ (deities) enshrined within were quite important, but as was the case with almost every other large shrine of its kind in Taiwan, the deities were actually all familiar figures, which included the Three Deities of Cultivation (開拓三神) and Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (北白川宮能久親王.) 

The ‘Three Deities of Cultivation’ (かいたくさんじん / 開拓三神), consist of three figures known for their skills with regard to nation-building, farming, business and medicine. 

The three “Kaitaku Sannin” are as follows: 

  1. Ōkunitama no Mikoto (大國魂大神 / おおくにたまのかみ)

  2. Ōkuninushi no Mikoto (大名牟遲大神 / おおなむちのかみ)

  3. Sukunabikona no Mikoto (少彥名大神 / すくなひこなのかみ)

The first mention of these deities was in the ‘Birth of the Gods’ (神生み) section of Japan’s all-important ‘Kojiki’ (古事記), or “Records of Ancient Matters”, a thirteen-century old chronicle of myths, legends and early accounts of Japanese history, which were later appropriated into Shintoism. 

While these deities are also quite common among Japan’s Shinto Shrines, they were especially important in Taiwan due to what they represented, which included aspects of nation-building, agriculture, medicine and the weather.

Given Taiwan’s position as a new addition to the Japanese empire, ‘nation-building’ and the association of a Japanese-style way of life was something that was being pushed on the local people in more ways than one.

Likewise, since the economy in Taiwan at the time was primarily agricultural-based, it was important that the gods enshrined reflected that aspect of life. 

Coincidentally, even though the colonial era ended almost eight decades ago, this is something that remains somewhat of a constant as you’ll find that one of the most important deities in Taiwan is the Chinese folk religion “Earth God” (土地公/福德正神), who has a court that performs similar roles as the three mentioned above. 

Interestingly, even though the origins of the Three Deities of Cultivation dates back well-over a thousand years, the other ‘kami’ enshrined here was a much younger one. In fact, most of the larger Shinto Shrines constructed in Taiwan during the colonial era were home to shrines dedicated to this specific deity who was known in life as “Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa.” 

Prince Yoshihisa, a major-general in the Japanese imperial army, was commissioned to participate in the invasion of Taiwan. Unfortunately for the Prince, he contracted malaria and died just outside of Taiwan making him the first member of the Japanese royal family to pass away while outside of Japan in more than nine hundred years.  

Shortly after his death he was elevated to the status of a kami under state Shinto and was given the name “Kitashirakawa no Miya Yoshihisa-shinno no Mikoto“, becoming one of the most prevalent deities here in Taiwan as well as being enshrined at the Yasukuni Shrine (靖國神社) in Tokyo. 

Link: Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (Wiki) 

As I mentioned above, when Taiwan’s Japanese Colonial Era came to an end in 1945, most of Taiwan’s smaller Shinto Shrines were torn down by the incoming regime, while the larger prefectural shrines were (for the most part) converted into Martyrs Shrines. 

The Hualien Shinto Shrine was surprisingly one of the few major Japanese-era shrines in the country to actually retain much of its original design for decades after the Chinese Nationalists took control of Taiwan. 

In 1950 though it was converted into the Hualien Martyrs Shrine (花蓮縣忠烈祠), with only minor changes taking place to the buildings on-site. 

In 1970 (民國59年), the suspension bridge, aptly named “The Shrine Bridge” (宮の橋) was destroyed by a typhoon and as Hualien had grown exponentially, the local authorities decided it was time to replace the pedestrian bridge with a much larger cement one which would allow more than just foot traffic to cross the river. 

Then, in 1972 (民國61年), the government of Japan signed a Joint Communiqué with the People’s Republic of China, starting formal diplomatic relations between the two countries.

One of the prerequisites for the agreement was that the Japanese government follow suit with America and the United Nations and drop relations with the Taipei-based government of the Republic of China.

The Japanese government’s decision to drop formal relations with Taiwan at that time was considered a major slap in the face to the people of Taiwan, which had up until then very favorable relations with their former colonial rulers.

Not only did this create quite a bit of anti-Japanese sentiment around Taiwan, but it also spurned the government into action with a retaliatory policy of tearing down anything related to Japanese culture or whatever remained from the Japanese colonial era.

Link: Japan-Taiwan Relations (Wiki) 

One of the victims of that anti-Japanese sentiment turned out to be this shrine, which was demolished and converted into a grand Northern-Chinese Palace style shrine, reopening to the public in 1981. 

Even though the Hualien Shinto Shrine outlasted many of its contemporaries in Taiwan, it still ultimately suffered the same fate and when it was demolished, not much was left of the original shrine. 

Today, one of the only pieces of the shrine that remains is the traditional “Shinme” (神馬/しんめ) or “Sacred Horse”, which is still standing near the shrine.

The “Kikumon” (菊紋) or the “Chrysanthemum Seal” of the Japanese Royal Family which typically adorns the belly of the horse however has been painted over with the star of the Republic of China.

Hualien Martyrs Shrine (花蓮忠烈祠)

As mentioned above, the Hualien Martyrs Shrine that exists today only dates back to 1981 (民國70年), making it a relatively young one by Taiwanese temple standards.

Having been around for the last four decades, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the shrine is even newer as it appears to be in pristine condition, thanks to the constant attention it receives from the local government. 

The shrine was constructed in the Northern-Chinese Palace Style (中國宮殿式建築), making its architectural style similar to many of the other Martyrs Shrines in Taiwan in that its design closely mimics that of the Forbidden Palace in the Chinese capital of Beijing.

Even though the shrine is open daily, it’s not likely that the actual shrine rooms will be open to the public as they are generally only open on special occasions. 

This shouldn’t be a huge surprise though - Martyrs Shrines aren’t really the typical kind of Taiwanese temple where people show up at regular intervals to show their respect and make a wish. They tend to be much more ceremonial in nature and are mostly used for propaganda purposes. 

So if you show up hoping to see inside the shrine room, you’re probably going to be disappointed. 

Nevertheless, in addition to honouring the war dead of the Republic of China’s Armed Forces, this shrine is also home to Spirit Tablets (牌位) for Koxinga (鄭成功) as well as Liu Yongfu (劉永福) and Qiu Fengjia (邱逢甲).

Liu was the commander of the celebrated Black Flag Army (黑旗軍), who later in life became the President of the short-lived Republic of Formosa (臺灣民主國). Qiu on the other hand was a Hakka poet, a renowned patriot, and the namesake for Taichung’s prestigious Fengjia University (逢甲大學). 

Despite the obvious disparity between the current Chinese-style design and the former Japanese-style design of the buildings, the landscape still maintains much of its original design, so as I introduce each of the different parts of the current shrine, I’ll do so in a way that looks at the shrine through the lens of the former Shinto Shrine to contrast and compare the older and current versions of the shrine. 

The Visiting Path (參道)

The Visiting Path, once one of the defining features of the Shinto Shrine has undergone significant changes since the shrine was converted into a Martyrs Shrine. 

First, it goes without saying (as I already mentioned above) that the original pedestrian bridge over the Meilun River has been replaced with a much larger bridge.

Today the path to the shrine is simply a set of cement stairs that bring you up to the main gate.

The left and right side of the stairs used to be adorned with cascading platforms of stone lanterns, but today they have all been removed, which has allowed for the staircase to be significantly widened.  

The Shrine Gate (鳥居) 

Upon reaching the top of the stairs, you’re be met with a beautiful red and white multi-tiered Chinese-style Pailou Gate (牌樓), which has a plaque in the middle that reads “Martyrs Shrine” (忠烈祠) in golden Chinese characters. 

This gate is a relatively newer addition to the shrine as the original gate that was constructed in 1981 was destroyed thanks to a magnitude seven earthquake, which I’ll talk about more later.

However, even though the current shrine gate is quite new, it is still beautifully designed and is probably one of the first things you’ll notice about the shrine as you approach from ground level. 

The Hall of Worship (拜殿)

The area where the Shinto Shrine’s Hall of Worship, or “Haiden” (拜殿) once existed has been replaced by another kind of ‘gate’, which you have to pass through to reach the main area of the shrine. 

This “gate”, which is officially known as the “Hall of Righteousness” (正氣殿) is elevated another level above where the Shrine Gate stands, so you’ll have to walk up another set of stairs to reach it. 

Before walking up the stairs though, you’ll likely notice the characters “英烈千秋” split into two on either side of its stairs. The phrase is loosely translated as “Eternal Heroes”, which is obviously a nod to the Martyrs enshrined within.

As you walk through the gate you’ll notice on one side that there is a door to an Administrative Office, which looks like it hasn’t been opened in a while. When you walk through the gate, you’re met with some more beautiful red pillars that lead to another set of stairs bringing you to the final level where the Main Halls are located. 

Interestingly, when the Shinto Shrine was first converted into the Martyrs Shrine, the “Haiden” was renamed “Hall of Righteousness” and retained its original design up until being torn down in the 1980s.

Today, the Chinese-style version retains the same name, which is a reflection of the history of this shrine. 

The Main Hall (本殿)

As is tradition with larger Shinto Shrines, the Main Hall, “Honden” area would have been off-limits to the general public. Today though the area where the hall once stood has been significantly altered to allow for three large Chinese-style buildings.

  1. The Main Hall or the “Martyrs Shrine” (主殿)

  2. The Left Hall or “The Hall of Benevolent Admiration” (仰仁殿)

  3. The Right Hall or “The Hall of Sublime Virtue” (崇德殿)

While the Main Hall is the area where you’d go to worship the Martyrs of the Republic of China’s Armed Forces who were killed in the line of duty, I’m assuming that the other two halls (which have different names) follow tradition and are Civilian Wings (文武忠烈祠), venerating the figures mentioned above as well as local heroes who died doing something “righteous.” 

If that is the case, the Literary Martyrs Shrine (文忠士祠) would be dedicated to the intellectuals who contributed to the ‘revolution’ that helped the Chinese Nationalists topple the Qing Dynasty, and is likely home to the Spirit Tablet for Liu Fengjia. 

Meanwhile the Martial Martyrs Shrine (武忠士次) would be dedicated to those martyrs who died during the early stages of the revolution and would include Koxinga and Liu Yongfu.

Unfortunately this is all just speculation as there is very little information about the shrine available, even in Chinese - and because you can’t actually even enter the shrine room to see.

Interestingly, while I was working on the photos for this post, I noticed something odd about the shrine.

It seemed no matter what I did, some of the photos weren’t straight. I was lining up the horizon with all the straight lines in photoshop and kept failing until I realized that none of it was my fault.

The shrine was actually sinking and tilted heavily to the right. 

I did some checking and discovered that in 2005, Typhoon Longwang (龍王颱風) caused significant damage to the shrine with a subsequent magnitude seven earthquake adding to the woes of the already weak foundation. 

Link: 花蓮忠烈祠修繕完工 即將開放參觀 (中時新聞網)

Still, even though the shrine is a bit slanted, it is a really nice place to visit and the colours of this palace-style shrine are really great for photos.

Getting There

 

Address: #82 Fuxing New Village, Hualien City (花蓮縣花蓮市970復興新村82)

The Hualien Martyrs Shrine is located near the busy downtown area of Hualien and is easily walkable from wherever you are coming from.

That being said, Hualien is a pretty big space, so some people might not really be in a hurry to go on a walking tour of the city.

Unfortunately, the English address I’ve translated above isn’t really going to offer you much help getting to the shrine. If you copy the Chinese though, you should have no problem.

The reason for this is because the address for the shrine is a little strange and it probably gives Google Maps a bit of a headache. 

The shrine is essentially located at the end of Linsen Road (林森路), where you’ll have to cross a bridge to get to the Meilunshan Park (美崙山公園). 

Unfortunately, when it comes to public transportation, you’re somewhat out of luck. 

There are city buses in Hualien, but none of them really bring you all that close to the shrine, and the route that travels the closest has recently terminated its service, so if you don’t have a car or scooter for your trip, you’re probably going to have to walk or take a cab to get to the shrine.

I could list a number of buses that get you within a ten to twenty minute walk from the shrine, but if you’re already in the downtown area, its probably better to just walk.

Of all the Martyrs Shrines I’ve visited thus far, the Hualien shrine is probably one of the prettiest. It probably goes without saying though that this is also thanks to the Shinto Shrine which once stood in its place.

From the outset, I didn’t expect that the final version of this article would turn out to be the most detailed resource available (in any language) about the shrine, but it was certainly frustrating to write as there is very little information available.

Nevertheless, it goes without saying that there are countless things to see and do while visiting Hualien, so even though this shrine isn’t probably very high on most people’s list of places to visit, I’d still recommend stopping by to check it out if you’re in the area.

It won’t take you too much time and if the weather is nice, the shrine absolutely shines.