Travel

Ji-an Yoshino Shrine (吉安慶修院)

Over the past few years I’ve blogged in great detail about various locations leftover from Taiwan’s Japanese Colonial Era introducing buildings, shrines, martial arts halls, etc.

Every time I write one of these articles, I offer a bit of an introduction to the colonial era by explaining to readers that the colonial period lasted from 1895 - 1945, and how for better or worse it was one of the most important eras in Taiwan’s modern history as the Japanese kickstarted the development of Taiwan into the beautiful country that we love today. 

When I talk about these things, I’m often accused of glossing over the terrible things that took place during the half century that the Japanese controlled the islands. And yeah, the Japanese were just like any other colonial power and committed atrocities. The development that took place likewise wasn’t entirely altruistic as it benefitted them and the construction of their fledgling empire, which had its eyes set on massive expansion around South East Asia.

Taiwan was just a stepping stone for fuelling those ambitions.

One facet of the colonial period that I’ve barely touched however is what happened when the war ended and the Japanese surrendered.

I always briefly mention that control of Taiwan and the Penghu Islands were ‘ambiguously’ awarded to the Republic of China, but that doesn’t really tell the full story of the administrative transition that took place, in addition to an exodus of people who left Taiwan with the outgoing colonial regime.

In 2015, a powerful documentary was released in theatres here in Taiwan that did an excellent job telling the forgotten story of what happened when the Japanese left, from the perspective of those who had lived in Taiwan for generations.

The documentary, titled: Wansei Back Home (灣生回家), chronicled the history of some of those (still living) Japanese citizens, who were born in Taiwan, and who had only ever known Taiwan as a home before they were forced to move back to Japan. It told about how they were met with hostility and discrimination when they arrived back in post-war Japan as the country was in the process of rebuilding.

It also delved into how these “Wansei” (灣生), or Japanese citizens who were “Born in Taiwan,” had a difficult time adapting to their new lives while missing the only home that they ever knew.

When the war ended and the Japanese were forced to leave Taiwan, they ended up bringing with them around half a million people.

When the Japanese era started in 1895, an active campaign started in Japan to encourage citizens (with specific skills) to emigrate to the new colony to assist in its development. 

Many of those who came in those early years brought with them everything they owned and a one-way ticket. Then, for several generations they lived, worked and raised families here in Taiwan, forming a deep connection with this land.

One of the first villages set up for these new immigrants to Taiwan was in Hualian’s Ji-an Village (吉安鄉), which then was known as “Yoshino Village”, and just so happens to be the setting in the movie for the return of those “Wansei” citizens, who returned to see their long-lost home.

In this article, I’m going to start off by introducing Yoshino Village and its historical significance before moving on to the main topic of the Yoshino Shrine, which is known today as Qingxiu Temple (慶修院).

Then I’ll conclude with some photos from the site of the former Yoshino Shinto Shrine (吉野神社), located in the heart of the village. 

The Buddhist temple has become a popular tourist attraction in recent years, since its restoration and although there may be a few English-language articles floating around the internet about it, I think it’s more beneficial to the reader to do a bit of a deep-dive into the history of this special village to get a better understanding of its significance.  

Yoshino Village (吉野村)

Street in Yoshino

Street in Yoshino

Originally settled by the Amis Indigenous people, the area we know today as Ji-an (吉安), was once referred to as Cikasuan (知卡宣) or “flowing timber” by the indigenous people who lived there. 

Located within the Huadong Valley (花東地區), Ji-an has a humid subtropical climate and is one of the areas of Hualien best known for its agricultural output, with crops that include rice, sugarcane, corn and tangerines, among others. 

Even though Ji-an has been the home of the Amis people (阿美族) for thousands of years, starting around the 17th century, it has also been an important area where various groups of Hakka (客家) and Hoklo (閩南) migrants have settled. Then, much later a larger group of refugees from the Chinese Civil War came to the area to make a new life in Ji-an. 

Today, these four different groups make up the vast majority of the over eighty-three thousand people who live in Ji-an. Before the arrival of those refugees however, Ji-an was a much different community than it is today, and as I mentioned above, holds a special place in Taiwan’s history. 

The Japanese Empire took control of Taiwan in 1895 and after a period of instability and heavy-handedness, life in Taiwan (for better or worse) eventually settled to become that of the model colony the Japanese were looking for. For the first few years, the only Japanese citizens who came to Taiwan would have been predominately military, civil servants, engineers and business people who sought to capitalize on the treasures that the island had to offer the empire. 

Yoshino tobacco farm

Yoshino tobacco farm

When the situation stabilized, the government made the decision to start a campaign to encourage immigration to the colony, which viewed further immigration to Taiwan by ‘ordinary’ (most often lower-class citizens), especially those who were labourers or farmers was a great way to improve production.

While also testing a ‘settler colonialism’ scheme by mixing Japanese citizens with the local population. 

The East Coast was chosen as the optimal location to start an immigration campaign for these ‘planned communities’ (移民村), due to the fact that it was sparsely populated and thanks to the so-called ‘availability’ of land.

To sweeten the deal, the government would provide each family with transportation, a home and a plot of land to farm on in addition to a number of subsidies.  

The so-called availability of land is a contentious issue as it forced the local Amis people off of their traditional lands and further into the mountains, resulting in a uprising known as the Cikasuan Incident (七腳川事件).

Immigration to the area started modestly in early 1910 (明治43年), with nine families recruited from Tokushima Prefecture (德島縣) on Japan’s Shikoku Island (四國), with another 52 following by the end of the same year. 

Taking into consideration how so many of the immigrants to the area hailed from Yoshinogawa City (吉野川市) in Tokushima, the village was officially renamed Yoshino Village (吉野村) in 1911 (明治44年) to better reflect the heritage of the new residents.

Rice fields in Yoshino

Rice fields in Yoshino

As mentioned above, the Yoshino area was already home to Hoklo, Hakka and Indigenous peoples, so when Yoshino Village became an official village, it was structured into three divisions, namely Miyamae (宮前), Shimizu (清水) and Kusawake (草分), with three tribal areas for the Amis people. Within these three divisions, the Japanese community and the local community were for the most part segregated, but surprisingly a sense of community partnership and shared success brought them all closer than anyone would have ever thought. 

Within a decade of the immigrant community project starting, Yoshino had become a model of success and the hard work of the immigrants and the locals alike transformed the village from a small settlement of sharecropping farms that endured endemic diseases and transformed the ‘wilderness’ into a model of economic success.

Quickly becoming an important centre for food production and economic activity, thanks to its success in the cultivation of rice, sugarcane, tobacco, vegetable and fruit production, the colonial government sought to use the ‘Yoshino model’ in official government propaganda that sought to create similar communities all over Taiwan.

But in order to do so, a considerable amount of public funds had to be invested in the village to ensure that it was equipped with hospitals, schools, civil buildings, shrines and public works projects. 

The “model immigrant community” project, which lasted from 1909 until around 1918 turned out to become a successful venture, but no where was it as successful as it was on the East Coast with Yoshino acting as the model for nearby villages like Toyota (豐田), Hayashida (林田), Yoshita (賀田), Kano (鹿野) and Ikegami (池上), among others. 

Link: Huadong Valley Ride 2018: Hualien City to Fenglin (Spectal Codex)

As the village continued to grow, administration become a major issue, so in 1937 (昭和12年), Yoshino Village was absorbed as a township within the much larger Karenko Prefecture (花蓮縣, which was better able to assert governmental control over its economic development.

If you read the introduction to this article, you’re probably aware of what I’m about to tell you. 

When the Second World War came to an end, the people living in Yoshino and all of the Japanese immigrant communities that dotted the eastern coast of Taiwan were forcibly repatriated back to Japan as the colonial government was making its exit. 

Yoshino Primary School

Yoshino Primary School

The tragedy of this story is that for the several generations of “Wansei” who were born here, and whom had never stepped foot in their ancestral homeland, they were leaving the only home they ever knew for one that was hostile to their existence.

Nevertheless, even though these villages were completely depopulated and abandoned by the Japanese, a housing crisis caused by the arrival of almost two million Chinese refugees a few short years later helped to revive these communities.

When the Chinese Nationalists took over, “Yoshino Village” ceased to exist, but Ji-an (吉安鄉) replaced it, and the farms and industry that were cultivated by the immigrants and local people over the thirty-eight years of its existence were brought back to life and continue to this day.

The few remaining Wansei continue to have fond memories of their homes here in Taiwan. 

And fortunately they have since been able to return to see their homeland as well as the friends they made while here.

Yoshino Shrine (吉野慶修院)

Ok, so it took a while to get here, but finally, the main subject of this article, the Yoshino Shingon Buddhist Temple (真言宗吉野布教所), better known today as Qingxiu Temple (慶修院). 

Often described as “Taiwan’s most well-preserved Buddhist Temple” (臺灣現存最完整的日式寺院), the recently restored shrine has become an extremely popular tourist attraction over the past few years.

I’d expect that Beitou’s Puji Temple (普濟寺) and Taipei’s Huguo Rinzai Temple (臨濟護國禪寺), and a few others around the country might beg to differ, with those bold claims above. 

Constructed as an overseas branch of Koyasan’s Kongobuji Temple (高野山金剛峰寺), the head branch of Japan’s Shingon Buddhism sect (真言宗), the “Yoshino Centre for the Dissemination of Shingon Buddhism” (真言宗吉野布教所) was established in 1917 (大正6年) to work hand-in-hand with the nearby Yoshino Shinto Shrine in serving the religious needs of the community. 

When the temple was first constructed however, it was forced to serve several different functions due to the lack of resources in the village at that time. Not only was it a Buddhist temple, it was also used as a medical facility, a funeral home and a school.

So not only was it helping the immigrants seek inner peace, it was also performing very practical functions as well.  

Fortunately, when the colonial era ended, the Chinese Nationalists uncharacteristically showed mercy and didn’t tear it down like they did the neighboring Shinto Shrine.

In 1948 (民國37年) the Main Hall of the shrine was converted into one that better suited the needs of Chinese Buddhists, with statues of Shakyamuni Buddha (釋迦牟尼佛) and Guanyin (觀音菩薩).

Although we’re fortunate that the temple wasn’t torn down, it did fall into a state of disrepair for quite some time and repairs were made in 1964 and again later in 1972, but were ultimately inadequate for dealing with the structural issues that required attention.

In 1997 (民國86年), the temple was recognized as a county-level historic property (縣定三級古蹟), which gave it a protected status and ensured that money would be allocated for its restoration.

Restoration started shortly after and after a long period of closure, the shrine re-opened to the public in 2003 with the entire grounds meticulously restored to how it would have appeared during the Japanese era. 

Today the Yoshino Shrine is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hualien and for those Wansei who come back to visit Taiwan, it is surely a sight for sore eyes.

Below, I’ll go into more detail about each of the important parts of the shrine: 

Main Gate (山門)

The Main Gate of the shrine, literally the “Mountain Gate” (山門) is a traditional style gate that meets with the “tamagaki”, or the sacred wall that encircles the perimeter of the complex.

The gate is so beautiful that you’ll probably have to line up to get photos in front of it. 

The gate is arguably one of the most authentic Japanese-style gates in Taiwan and its design is characterized by its simplicity. Above the gate you’ll find a Japanese style eaved roof with a plaque in the middle that reads “Qingxiu Temple” (慶修院).

Hung below that you’ll find a “shimenawa” (標縄), otherwise known as a “sacred rope” decorated with braided paper streamers named “shide” (紙垂). 

Depending on the time of the year that you’ll visit you’ll likely also find two large paper lanterns with the name of the shrine on them. You might also find a purple banner (門幕) hanging in the middle which displays two important icons that identify the temple. 

Main Hall (正殿佛堂)

From top to bottom, the century-old Main Hall of the Yoshino Shrine is quite unique in Taiwan with regard to its architectural design.

The single room building is constructed almost entirely of wood and features a beautiful double-layered roof, held up thanks to the genius of Japanese architectural design.

From the outside, the building is elevated off the ground with a ‘hisashi’ (廂) veranda that reaches around the sides of the building in the shape of a “U”,  and likewise has beautiful windows on the same three sides, allowing for beautiful natural light to enter the building.

The interior of the building is measured by Japanese standards and is three ‘ken’ (間) wide and four ‘ken’ in length (面寬3間、進深4間), which translates to a space of around 39.96 square meters.

As you’d expect with a Buddhist temple like this, the interior is decorated quite simply with tatami mats on the floor and shrines against the back wall. While inside, there really isn’t that much to see, but thats the point of a temple like this, as it is supposed to be a simple space where you’re able to relax and free your mind.

Having a bunch of things to focus on doesn’t really help with that.

The roof of the building is probably one of the most unique aspects of its architectural design as it features the typical Japanese style ‘hip-and-gable’ roof that you’ll find on other Japanese style buildings, but in this case we have a double-layered, four-sided roof. 

In temples constructed in this specific hip-and-gable style known as irimoya-zukuri (入母屋造), the ‘gabled’ part of the roof (the upper layer) covers the ‘moya’ (母屋), or the interior of the building, while the ‘hipped’ part (the lower portion), covers the veranda and protrudes further beyond on each of the four sides.  

While the ‘hisashi’ veranda appears functional, its main purpose is actually to help reinforce the roof with an extra row of pillars, distributing its weight more evenly and also preventing the roof from caving in during an earthquake or a typhoon.  

In most cases, these Japanese-era temples in Taiwan put a lot of emphasis on the design on the front facade of the building, but the sides and the rear rarely ever receive the same amount of attention, which is what makes this one special.

Even though the roof only appears to be double-layered, its all part of the three dimensional design that Japanese architecture has mastered. 

Originally, the main deity in enshrined within the Main Hall was “Acala”, however when the Chinese Nationalists took control of Taiwan, it was replaced with figures more representative of Chinese Buddhism. Now that the shrine has been restored, we can see a shrine set up to the founder of Shingon Buddhism, Kobo Daishi (弘法大師) or Kukai (空海).

Links: Kobo Daishi (Wikipedia) | Kukai Kobo Daishi (Japan Visitor)

You might be wondering why the original shrine to Acala wasn’t put back in place when the shrine was restored. That’s actually an easy answer - Acala is a popular Buddhist figure in Japan, and other parts of Asia, but here in Taiwan is lesser known. 

(I’ll talk about Acala a bit more later)

Kobo Daishi however is someone that most people are aware of, so placing the founder of the sect in the main shrine seems like a pretty good compromise. 

One of the interesting things about this temple are the curtain/banners (御神幕) hanging at the front door. In Taiwan, when you arrive at a shrine, you can typically tell who is inside by the plaque that is placed above the door and the name of the temple.

Japanese places of worship however are quite different and knowing who you’ll find inside can be a little difficult for the uninitiated.

In this case we have two different emblems on the door, which have a very important meaning with regard to this temple, but is something that is generally missed by almost everyone who visits. 

In Japan, these banners are generally always white, unless it is a special occasion when they’re changed to purple. A white curtain here in Taiwan though is something that would scare people away (funeral-related) and would be bad for business. So let’s just say that everyday is a special occasion here in Taiwan and we use purple year-round!

On the left you’ll find the “Kirimon” while on the right you’ll find the “Hidari Gomon”, but what do they mean and why are they there? 

The Koyasan Shingon sect of Buddhism uses the Hidari Gomon (三つ巴) on banners that identify its temples. The Japanese for the symbol translates literally as “Three Commas”, and the design is likened to the mythic three-legged crow Yatagarasu  (八咫烏).

In this case, the “tomoe” (鞆絵/巴) is similar in design to the Chinese “Taijitu” (太極圖), and is used as a visual representation of the Buddhist concept of the “cycle of life.” 

Note: The Hidari Gomon just so happens to also be the same emblem used to symbolize Okinawa (沖繩) and is featured predominately at shrines like the Futenma Shrine (普天滿宮) and Naminoue Shinto Shrine (波上宮), and you would have seen it at Shuri Castle (首里城) before it tragically burnt to the ground. 

The Kirimon (桐紋) is a symbol that the Shingon sect uses to identify Kobo Daishi, the founder of the sect and one of their most prolific figures. Like the emblem above, it also features predominately in Japan as a variation is used to represent the Governmental Seal of Japan (日本內閣總理大臣), known as the “Go-shichi no kiri” or the 5-7 Paulownia (五七桐), while the one used here is the “Go-san no kiri” or the 5-3 Paulownia (五三桐). The only difference between them the variation on the number of petals featured on each of the emblems. 

Acala

To the right of the Main Hall you’ll find a one meter tall stone statue of Acala (不動明王), who is the deity who was previously enshrined at the temple prior to the Chinese Nationalists arrival in Taiwan.

Acala, who is also known as “Fudo Myoo” or the “Immovable Lord” is a wrathful deity who often appears demon-like in his iconography, but is known as the ‘Protector of the Dharma’ and is one of the most important figures in Shingon Buddhism, apart from the founder.

Link: Acala (Wikipedia)

Don’t let the fact that Acala appears somewhat frightening fool you, his purpose is to use his power to help spread wisdom and compassion and only appears that way in order to better combat evil forces!  

Before I move on, I think it’s important to take a minute to talk about the restoration process of the Main Hall, which today is slightly different than it appeared several decades ago, as well as when it was originally constructed.

In the years after the colonial era, the main hall was expanded upon to include rooms to the side, which ultimately changed the shape of the building, and required an alteration to the roof. 

When the building was restored, these additions were removed and the building was (for the most part) restored to its original design. However the back side of the building has been reinforced with modern construction materials in order to secure it from the constant threat of earthquakes that occur so frequently on the East Coast.

The changes to the building aren’t all that noticeable, but have been done in a way that ensures that we’ll be able to enjoy this one for many years to come. 

The Hyakudoishi Stone (百度石)

The one meter tall ‘Hyakudoishi Stone’ stands directly in front of the Main Hall and is part of a Japanese tradition that acts as a location marker for the temple. 

According to tradition, if you’ve visited the temple and prayed for something, you should walk back and forth from the Main Hall and the stone a hundred times in order to show your devotion.

Likewise, if that wish comes true, you should return and complete the same task a thousand times to show your appreciation. 

The Mantra of Light Stone (光明真言百萬遍石碑)

The Mantra of Light Stone is an important part of this shrine and is something that you will generally find at almost every Shingon Buddhist Temple.

The stone is a tool used in Buddhist practice that requires practitioners to chant: “Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo” (南無大師遍照金剛) at least 108 times if they want a wish to come true.

For hardcore practitioners of Shingon, the mantra needs to be chanted at least a million times in their lifetime. 

This specific stone however is thought to have special healing powers and according to local legend, chronic illnesses could be cured by carrying out the ritual mentioned above.

This could very well have originated due to the fact that the shrine was once home to a medical clinic that served the medical needs of the local community.

Nevertheless, the stone has been an important part of the shrine for more than a century, so its continued existence is quite important.  

You’ll probably have noticed from both of these stones that a lot of exercise is required! 

Eighty-Eight Stone Buddha Statues (88尊石佛) 

Located against the southern and western walls of the temple, you’ll find a beautiful display of eighty-eight Buddha statues, which has been wonderfully restored. The number ‘eight’ is a special one in Buddhism and in this case the number “88” in this case represents the various types of Anxiety (煩惱) and Willpower (願力), that are a part of of Kobo Daishi’s teachings.

As mentioned above, this temple is a branch of the Koysan temple back in Japan, but when the immigrants first started arriving in Taiwan, many of them got sick and life was hard.

In order to improve these conditions, some went back to Japan and completed the iconic Shikoku Pilgrimage (四國遍路), which takes more than a month and requires visiting the 88 temples associated with Kobo Daishi on Shikoku Island.

Upon completion of the 1200 kilometer pilgrimage, they brought back with them these 88 statues, each of which from a specific temple, to help the people of Yoshino have a better life. 

Each of the statues features a number, a prayer and the name of the temple where it hails from.

Apart from the Main Hall itself, this is probably the most popular part of the temple and you’ll often find people paying close attention to each of the Buddha’s and the name of the temple they hail from.

You’ll also find quite a few people writing wishes on traditional wooden plaques named ema (絵馬), which are hung nearby and are received by the eighty-eight Buddhas.

Yoshino Shinto Shrine (吉野神社)

When immigrants from Japan started to arrive in Yoshino Village around 1910 (明治43年), most of the basics had already been set up for them, but one of the things that was missing was a Shinto Shrine to take care of their religious needs. 

At that time, not even the Hualien Shinto Shrine (花蓮港神社) had been constructed, so in order to help out, the Governors General Office in the capital purchased a plot of land from the local Makutaay Tribe (瑪谷達璦部落) to construct one. 

Even though Yoshino Village had already been established, the government had to purchase a separate plot of land from the local indigenous people due to the fact that according to Shinto Tradition, larger shrines are generally constructed outside of residential areas in order to maintain the sanctity of the sacred space housed within. 

Link: Architecture and Sacred Spaces in Shinto (UC Berkeley) 

Construction on the Yoshino Shinto Shrine started in January of 1912 (明治45年) and was surprisingly (and extremely efficiently) completed a few months later on May 30th as a branch shrine of the Taiwan Shinto Shrine (台灣神宮 / たいわんじんぐう) in Taipei. 

Note: The Taiwan Shinto Shrine was constructed on the side of Jiantan Mountain where the Yuanshan Grand Hotel (圓山大飯店) is currently located. 

The interesting thing about the Yoshino Shrine is that even though it was never meant to be a Prefectural Level-sized shrine, it was still a large one by the standards of that time and was considered to be one of the ‘three most important shrines on the east coast’ (東台灣三大神社) along with the Hualien Prefectural Shrine and the Taitung Prefectural Shrine (台東神社).

Although information about the overall design of the shrine is limited, from the historic photos it would seem that the shrine consisted of the following: 

  1. A large gate or “torii” (鳥居)

  2. A walking path or “sando” (參道)

  3. Stone Lanterns or “toro” (石燈籠)

  4. An Administration Office or “shamusho” (社務所)

  5. A Purification Fountain or “chozuya” (手水舍)

  6. Stone Guardians or “komainu” (狛犬)

  7. A Hall of Worship or “haiden” (拜殿)

  8. A Main Hall or “honden” (本殿)

Considering the fact that the shrine was a branch of the Taiwan Shinto Shrine, and as was the case with most of Taiwan’s other shrines, the kami enshrined within were all familiar figures which included the Three Deities of Cultivation and Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa.

Unfortunately it’s unclear as to when the Yoshino Shrine was torn down, but when the colonial era ended, the land was used for the construction of military villages, so it is safe to assume that the shrine disappeared in the late 1940s as Hualien was an important location for the Air Force.  

The Military Villages (眷村) constructed on the land where the shrine was located were only ever meant to be temporary lodgings for members of the armed forces, however when it became clear that the ROC wasn’t going to be able to “Retake the Mainland” as they hoped, families eventually started to disperse in order to live a more comfortable life. 

The Military Villages where the shrine was located have since been torn down and part of the land is currently used as a Hakka Cultural Park (吉安好客藝術村).

Even though the park is an arts centre for the local Hakka people, the buildings constructed on site pay homage to the former shrine and attempts have been made to showcase the original landscape design of the former shrine. 

Today all that remains of the original shrine are some memorial stones, ruined lanterns and a reconstruction of the purification fountain.

Still, the area is quite beautiful and the Hakka culture centre is well worth a visit. Likewise, the downtown area of Jian is nice for a walk as you’ll find quite a few houses and buildings left over from the colonial era.

Getting There 

 

Ji-an village is conveniently located just outside of the Hualien city, but with that being said, Hualien is quite large and there is a considerably distance between the city and Ji-an.

Likewise the two shrines aren’t all that close, so getting there could either be quite simple, or a bit tedious depending on your means of transportation.

If you’ve got a car or a scooter, there shouldn’t be much of an issue, especially if you’re travelling from Hualien city, which is a rather straight-forward route.

Simply input one of the addresses (or GPS coordinates) provided below into your GPS or Google Maps and you won’t have any problem. 

Ji-An Qingxiu Temple 

Address: #345-1, Zhongxing Road, Ji’an Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣吉安鄉中興路345-1號) 

GPS: 121.56474, 23.97370

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday, 8:30am - 5:00pm 

Admission: Adult: 30NT, Children/Senior: 15NT, Group: 20NT

Yoshino Shinto Shrine

Address: #477 Zhongshan Road, Sec 3, Ji’an Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣吉安鄉中山路三段477號)

GPS: 121.567120, 23.979840

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday, 9:00am - 4:00pm

Admission: Free of Charge. 

If on the other hand you’re relying on public transportation, getting there becomes a little more tedious, but shouldn’t really pose much of a problem for most travellers.

  • Train

You can take a Local Train (區間車) headed south from Hualien Station and once you’ve arrived at Ji-an Station (吉安車站), from there you can either grab a taxi or simply walk to the shrine, which is about two kilometres away. The route to the shrine isn’t that confusing, so if you walk, you probably won’t get lost. 

  • Bus

From Hualien Train Station you have to option of taking two different buses. Hualien Bus (花蓮客運) #1131 or Taiwan Tourist Shuttle (台灣好行) #303. 

  1. Hualien Bus (花蓮客運) #1131 - From Hualien Station -> Ji’an Township Office (吉安鄉公所)

  2. Taiwan Tourist Shuttle (台灣好行) #303 - From Hualien Station directly to the shrine.

While the second option might seem to be the most convenient, I’d caution that the bus doesn’t come all that often, so if you’re hoping to get on this one, I recommend making sure when the bus leaves from Hualien and heads back, so that you don’t end up missing it. 

The other bus may require a short walk from the Ji-an Township Office, but it is a considerably shorter walk than the walk from the train station, which should save some time as it comes much more frequently and is more reliable.  

To tell the truth, when I started writing this article, I figured I could write a simple introduction to the Yoshino Buddhist Temple and then quickly move on to write about some of the other places I visited during my several-week long trip to the East Coast.

Unfortunately the rabbit hole I fell down while researching this one was so deep that I ended up churning out this long-winded deep dive into the interesting history of Yoshino Village.

For that I apologize. 

Nevertheless, this is a topic that isn’t covered very well in the English language, so I hope that if you’ve read this far, that you’ve been able to learn about this important piece of Taiwanese history, and that it has sparked an interest to keep learning about it like I do. 



Luye Shinto Shrine (鹿野神社)

One of the most popular Taiwanese films to come out in recent years was the movie “Kano”, which told the story of an historic Taiwanese high school baseball team that participated in the Koshien Baseball Tournament in Japan and was one of those underdog sports stories that captivated audiences.

It also helped to rekindle a nations love for its national sport, which just years before had been embroiled in so many corruption scandals that people started losing interest.

The Kano Baseball Team (嘉農野球部) from central Taiwan’s Chiayi (嘉義) was a ragtag group of Hoklo, Hakka, Indigenous and Japanese players, who received little to no respect but ended up becoming the biggest surprise of Japan’s national baseball championships in 1931. 

Link: Japanese High School Baseball Championship (Wiki) 

While audiences loved the movie, there was a bit of confusion regarding its title.

Quite a few wondered aloud how a local movie could come out without a Chinese language title. 

They also wondered what “Kano” meant. 

Talk show hosts and commentators around the country tried to explain that the name was a reflection of the Japanese Colonial Era for which the movie was based.

This led not only to a renewed love of baseball, but also increased interest in learning more about that period of Taiwan’s history, which to be honest, isn’t covered all that well in the local school system. 

While it was great that the movie, which was critically successful at Taiwan’s box office, was doing such a great job creating a renewed interest about Taiwan’s history and baseball, there was still quite a bit of confusion about the word “Kano.” 

This is because not only was there a baseball team named “Kano”, there was also a town that shared the same name.

The baseball team was made up of students from the Kagi Agricultural and Forestry School (嘉義農林學校野), located in the central Taiwanese city that we know today as Chiayi, which was then known as Kagi.  

In Japanese, the mixture of the words “Chia” (嘉) and “Nong” (農) went together to make the abbreviation “Kano” (嘉農), which is admittedly a lot easier to say than the full name. 

Meanwhile the other “Kano” was a town on the East Coast, known today as “Luye” (鹿野) which, much like Yoshino Village in Hualien, was a Japanese immigrant farming community, just outside of Taitung city. 

Even though both were pronounced “Kano” in Japanese, they were completely different. 

There was however a relation between the two that a lot of people missed.  

Due to Taitung’s remoteness in the early years of the Colonial Era, some of the stars of the Kano Baseball team were Indigenous peoples from “Kano” who had left their homes to study as well as play baseball. 

Link: Taiwanese “Kano” Baseball Team Found its Field of Dreams (Nippon) 

In fact, the Luye-Shikano area has a long and successful history with baseball and from the elementary school level all that way to professional sports, the village has produced quite a few stars over the past century.

Today I’m not here to talk about baseball, I’m here to introduce a historic Shinto Shrine that was used as the central place of worship for that village, the Shikano Shinto Shrine

Before I talk about the shrine though, I’m going to take a few moments to introduce a little about the history of the immigrant community that made up most of what we know as Luye today.

Shikano Immigrant Village (鹿野移民村)

Kano Shinto Shrine

Kano Shinto Shrine

When the Japanese Colonial Era was established in 1895, the vast majority of Japanese who initially came to Taiwan were members of the Armed Forces, civil servants and engineers. Tasked with suppressing opposition to colonial rule and stabilizing the island, the first waves of Japanese citizens came here with the intent to prepare Taiwan for mass development and future colonization.

Prior to the arrival of the Japanese, it would be an understatement to say that Taiwan was an untapped treasure - The Hoklo, Hakka and Indigenous people who had inhabited the island up until that point were mostly subsistence farmers, who gave little thought to developing the island in a centralized way, apart from ensuring their own livelihoods.  

For the Japanese, Taiwan was a treasure trove of resources that would be instrumental in fueling the expansion of their empire.

First though, Taiwan, their model colony would have to be tamed. 

Luye Police Station (鹿野派出所)

Luye Police Station (鹿野派出所)

After more than a decade of development, the powers that be decided that it was time to start an emigration process that would allow Japanese citizens to come to Taiwan and settle on land provided for them.

The thought process behind this was that Taiwan was in need of an influx of a different class of immigrant as there was a need for agricultural workers as well as people who could contribute to the various mining and forestry industries (among others.)

One of the interesting things about these communities was that their development could be either public or private, which meant that some of them were planned by the government, while others were privately sponsored by some of the larger corporations that came to Taiwan.

Even though the vast majority of the communities ended up being occupied by farmers, there were also others that were developed for miners, fishers, forestry and industrial workers.

Kano Elementary School (鹿野公學校)

Kano Elementary School (鹿野公學校)

The more nefarious reason as to why the government instituted this kind of immigration policy was to start importing boat-loads of lower-class Japanese citizens, who would eventually outnumber the original inhabitants of the island in an attempt at settler colonialism in an attempt to fast-track the assimilation process.

This policy was also considered beneficial to the government back at home in Japan as the country was quickly modernizing and discovered that there was a surplus of farmers and an increasingly limited amount of land for them to farm on. 

So, with an opportunity to make a new life in Taiwan, which included a great package of incentives, the waiting-list of Japanese citizens wishing to start a new life here was likely quite long. 

The ‘immigrant community’ (移民村) policy started in 1908 (明治41年), with the first official community established in Karenko Prefecture, known today as Hualien. 

The success of the first of these communities, known as Yoshino Village (吉野村), gave the government the incentive to continue establishing further communities along the east coast with several more established between 1912 and 1932. 

From Yoshino Village in Hualien, villages started popping up further south with Toyota Village (豐田移民村), Hayashita Village (林田移民村), Yoshita Village (賀田), Ikegami Village (池上) and most importantly for the sake of this article, Shikano (鹿野).

Kano Family Photo

Kano Family Photo

In 1915 (大正4年), the Shikano Immigrant Village was established by the Taitung Sugar Corporation (台東製糖株式會社) as a private community in the area we know today as Longtian Village (龍田村).

Initially a hundred lower-class families from Niigata Prefecture (新潟縣) on the western coast of Japan were invited and later that year the village expanded again to over four hundred families.

This technically made it the largest immigrant village in Taitung, with a population of around 1500 people. 

One of the things to keep in mind about this specific immigrant village though was that the majority of the residents were considered “short term” (短期移民) and came specifically to work in the sugar industry every year from November to April. Therefore the number of families living in the village wasn’t a constant, with the numbers changing at different times of the year. 

When the short-term seasonal worker situation was resolved, the population of the village eventually started to decline with only about 143 households (547 people) in 1919 (大正8年) and even less than half of that by 1943 (昭和18年). 

Still, even though Kano was a privately planned community, it came complete with schools, a hospital, an administrative centre, train station, a downtown core and of course a Shinto Shrine.

Today, not only are we able to enjoy the fully restored Shinto Shrine, but several other buildings from the colonial era as well as Japanese-style urban planning, which has become quite popular with contemporary Taiwanese who enjoy the large open spaces with wide tree-lined roads.

Visiting the former immigrant village these days gives people a diverse look into Taiwan’s modern history while also allowing you to imagine that you’re visiting the Japanese countryside!  

Shikano Shinto Shrine (鹿野神社)

Surprisingly, the Kano Shinto Shrine, or the “Luye Shinto Shrine” as we call it today wasn’t actually constructed until almost a decade after the Kano Immigrant Village was established.

When immigrants first started arriving in Taito Prefecture (台東廳), the closest place of worship would have been the Taitung Shinto Shrine, which at the time was probably all they needed considering that the majority of them were sponsored by the Taitung Sugar Corporation, which was located nearby the original Taito Shinto Shrine. 

Fortunately, by the time that the Taito Shinto Shrine became a Prefectural Shrine (縣社) and was moved to Liyu Mountain (on the other side of Taitung City), the Kano Shinto Shrine had already been established.

Officially opened on July 10th, 1923 (大正12年), the Kano Shinto Shrine was much smaller in scale than the Taitung Shrine and was classified as a “Mukaku-sha” (無格社) or a Village Shrine (社祠) without ranking by the official Shakaku (社格) Shrine Grading System.

Link: Modern system of ranked Shinto shrines (Wiki)

While it may sound a bit harsh that the shrine had no ranking, that was common for the vast majority of the two hundred of more shrines constructed in Taiwan during the Colonial Era, of which Taitung itself was home to around fifty.

Originally constructed in the northern area of the village in a valley between the Luye Plateau (鹿野高台) and Horseback Mountain (馬背山), it’s location proved somewhat problematic as it wasn’t very convenient for the vast majority of the villagers given that it was at least a three kilometer walk from the train station.

So, in 1931 (昭和6年), the shrine was relocated to its current location next to Kunci Hall (崑慈堂), which was ideal as it was a short walk from the Elementary School.

As a smaller shrine, the Kano Shinto Shrine only consisted of the following: 

  1. A large gate or “torii” (鳥居)

  2. A walking path or “sando” (參道)

  3. Stone Lanterns or “toro” (石燈籠)

  4. A Purification Fountain or “chozuya” (手水舍)

  5. Stone Guardians or “komainu” (狛犬)

  6. A Main Hall or “honden” (本殿)

Given its size, the Kano Shrine wasn’t home to a Hall of Worship (拜殿), so in this case, as a Hokora-style (祠 / ほこら) shrine, we’re actually able to approach the Main Hall, otherwise known as the Honden (本殿) and get a good look at its architecture.

Back in Japan, Shinto Shrines come in all shapes and sizes and for shrines like this one, you’re always able to get a good look at the architecture of the Main Hall. It’s important to note though that with most of the larger shrines (like some of those that still exist in some form in Taiwan), the general public is rarely ever able to get a good look at the Main Hall as it is considered a sacred-space.

The best example that we have here in Taiwan of an original ‘Haiden’ and ‘Honden’ in its original condition is at the Taoyuan Martyrs Shrine, where you’re currently able to approach the rear of the shrine, which was at one time only ever frequented by the priests who took care of the shrine. 

Where the Kano Shinto Shrine stands apart from the other shrines that have been preserved in Taiwan is that you can easily examine it’s architectural design, which gives away some obvious clues about the shrine to those who are in the know about these small details.  

In this case, the Main Hall is designed in the ancient ‘Taisha-zukuri’ (大社造) style, which indicates that the building is elevated off the ground, usually by stilts, but in this case on a concrete base.

The current base of the shrine is the original one from 1931, which makes it the only original part of the shrine that still remains today. 

Like a lot of Japanese-style shrines, the roof of the building is considerably larger than its base.

Part of the genius of Japanese design is that the building, known as the moya (母屋) couldn’t possibly support the weight of the roof on its own, but thanks to a network of joints and trusses and the help of pillars along the veranda, the building is able to withstand the weight and ensure years of stability. 

Often going hand-in-hand with the elevated design of the building, the shrine makes use of the gabled kirizuma-zukuri (切妻造) style of roof.

This style differs from the typical four sided hip-and-gable style of roof that you would find at other Japanese-style buildings and consists only of two inclined surfaces on the front and back that form a ridge at the top.

Essentially, it’s meant to look like a book that is resting with its cover facing up.

In order to stabilize the roof and distribute its weight, there are two large pillars to the left and the right of the building that are kept in place by the cement base below. Both of the pillars are quite thick and have been crafted with cypress, like the rest of the building, which is known for its sturdiness.

Another important aspect of the design to pay attention to are the katsuogi (鰹木/かつおぎ) and chigi (千木) ornaments on the roof.

To the naked eye, they may just seem unimportant, but they have traditionally been used to differentiate Shinto Shrines from Buddhist Temples in Japan as well as indicating the ‘kami’ that are enshrined within.

The katsuogi are the long timber-like pieces of wood that rest on the flat base of the roof.

An even number indicates a female divinity while an odd number signifies a male.

In the case of this shrine, there are five of them, meaning that the kami enshrined within are male.  

Likewise the ‘chigi’ can be cut either horizontally or vertically, known as uchi-sogi (内削ぎ) and soto-sogi (外削ぎ) respectively.

How they’re cut likewise indicates the kami within, so It should then be no surprise that the ‘chigi’ at this shrine are cut vertically in the ‘uchi-soto’ style as the katsuogi mentioned above already indicates a male divinity. 

The chigi on the building are practically decorated with kazana (風穴), which are decorative holes in the tips of the finial, which allow for the passage of wind and for the stabilization of the roof.

Links: Katsuogi | Chigi (Wiki)

Currently the only pieces of the shrine that exist on the site today apart from the shrine itself are a couple of lanterns, an unfinished purification fountain and a shrine gate. 

Deities 

As was the case with most of Taiwan’s other shrines during the colonial era, the kami enshrined within were all familiar figures, which included the Three Deities of Cultivation and Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa.

The ‘Three Deities of Cultivation’ (かいたくさんじん / 開拓三神), consist of three mythic figures known for their skills with regard to nation-building, farming, business and medicine. 

The three gods are as follows:  

  1. Ōkunitama (大國魂大神 / おおくにたまのかみ)

  2. Ōkuninushi (大名牟遲大神 / おおなむちのかみ)

  3. Sukunabikona (少彥名大神 / すくなひこなのかみ)

The first mention of these deities was in the ‘Birth of the Gods’ (神生み) section of one of Japan’s most important books, the ‘Kojiki’ (古事記), or “Records of Ancient Matters”, a thirteen-century old chronicle of myths, legends and early accounts of Japanese history, which were later appropriated into Shintoism. 

While these three deities date back well-over a thousand years, the other one that was enshrined within the Taitung Shinto Shrine was a considerably younger one. 

In fact, most of the over two hundred Shinto Shrines constructed in Taiwan during the colonial era, most were home to shrines dedicated to Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (北白川宮能久親王) 

Prince Yoshihisa had the unfortunate luck of being the first member of the Japanese royal family to pass away while outside of Japan - in more than nine hundred years.

The reason why his worship is so prevalent here in Taiwan is due to the fact that it is believed he died of malaria while on military campaign in Tainan in 1895.

Although it is also thought that he might have been shot by Taiwanese guerrillas on a mountain in Hsinchu.

Link: Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (Wiki) 

Restoration 

Suffice to say, when the Colonial Era ended in 1945 and the Japanese residents of Taiwan were sent back to Japan, this shrine, like so many others around Taiwan didn’t last very long.

Given its location, especially with regard to the locals schools, the Chinese Nationalists didn’t waste my time tearing it down as it would have been considered an obstacle to their authority.

Interestingly, even though the shrine was destroyed, the name of the village was never changed.

Instead of referring to it as ‘Kano’ in Japanese, it was simply changed to ‘Luye’, the Chinese pronunciation of the same Chinese characters. 

After the shrine was destroyed, not much happened on the land where it existed save for the construction of a Chinese temple named Kunci Hall. The temple later constructed a pavilion on the concrete base where the shrine used to exist, but for the most part nature took its course and reclaimed the area. 

In 2013, the local government in conjunction with the Ministry of Transportation (交通部) and the Tourism Bureau (観光局) started a two-year process of research and planning that sought a partnership with craftsmen in Japan to recreate and restore the Shinto Shrine to its original condition. 

Oddly, the only stipulation was that once the shrine was completed, that it not house any deity and it be used only for tourism-related purposes.

So even though the Luye Shinto Shrine today appears to be a ‘shrine’, you’d be wasting your time clapping your hands and praying in front of it as the deities never actually returned to their original home.

The most important fact that I could tell you about the reconstruction of this shrine is that when it was being restored, the Taiwanese government contracted a very elite group of carpenters in Japan, known as Miyadaiku (宮大工).

These carpenters have been honing their craft for well over a millennium and are masters at construction techniques that doesn’t use nails, screws, glue or electric tools.

Everything is hand-made, and like a puzzle, it all fits together thanks to a genius network of wooden joints. 

Link: Japanese Carpentry | 宮大工 (Wiki)

The unfortunate thing about this specialized style of Japanese carpentry is that it is something of a dying art. There are less than a hundred Miyadaiku carpenters still practicing their trade in Japan today and its an art form that is sadly on the brink of dying out within the next few decades.

One last thing I should note is that even though reconstruction on the shrine was “completed” in 2015, construction on the site is on-going with restoration still taking place on the purification fountain as well as on the landscape that surrounds the shrine. 

If you’ve seen photos of the shrine elsewhere on the internet, the environment surrounding the shrine probably seems completely different than what you’ve seen here as the local government continues to enhance the site. I was personally quite surprised when I showed up to check it out as the background didn’t appear to be even remotely similar to what I had seen prior to my arrival.

Nevertheless, the Kano Shinto Shrine is alive again and its existence is a great reminder of the history of this beautiful little tourist village on the east coast of Taiwan. 

Getting There 

 

Luye is a large township situated just outside of Taitung City and Longtan Village (龍田村), where the shrine is located, is probably one of the most popular areas to visit for tourists. 

Even though the shrine is a bit of a distance from Taitung City, getting there is rather straight-forward and once you’re there you’ll also be able to visit some of the other nearby attractions, which most likely means the famed Luye Plateau (鹿野高台), where the Taitung Hot Air Balloon festival takes place every year.

If you have your own means of transportation, getting to the shrine shouldn’t be much of an issue, but even if you don’t, there are more than enough public transportation options to help. 

If you’re driving a car or a scooter, simply input the address or coordinates below into your GPS or Google Maps, and you’ll find yourself there after a beautiful drive through the Taitung countryside.   

Address: No. 308, Guangrong Road, Luye Township, Taitung County.

(台東縣鹿野鄉光榮路308號)

GPS: 121.120620, 22.904150

If on the other-hand you’re relying on the public transportation option, you’ll have a number of options, but will have to keep in mind that you’ll likely have to walk a few kilometres to get to the shrine from the train station or the bus stop. 

Train

No matter if you’re coming from the north or the south, you’ll have to hop on a Local Train (區間車) and ride until you reach Luye Train Station (鹿野車站), where you’ll get off and make your way to the shrine from there. 

Bus

Taitung Bus (台東客運): #8161, 8163, 8165, 8166, 8167, 8168, 8170

For each of these buses (as well as the train), you’ll get off at Luye Train Station and from there the shrine is about a 2.5km walk passing by Longtan Park (龍田公園) and following Guangrong Road (光榮路) until you reach the shrine.

Even though it seems like a long walk, the road is absolutely beautiful and you’ll see quite a few historic buildings along the way. 

Taiwan Tour Bus (台灣好行): Luye Line (鹿野線)

This bus is probably the most convenient in terms of travel as it will bring you directly to the shrine where you’ll get off at the Kunci Temple (崑慈堂) bus stop. The only problem with this bus is that it doesn’t come all that frequently, so you’ll end up wasting a long time waiting for it to show up which pretty much makes the other bus options much more attractive.

Bicycle 

One of the most popular activities for tourists visiting Longtian Village is to take the bus or train to Luye Station and from there renting a bicycle from one of the many nearby vendors.

Renting a bicycle at one of these shops allows you to skip the long walk to the shrine and also allows you to enjoy some of the other attractive destinations in the area.

I’m not going to promote any of the specific vendors, but all of the prices should be relatively similar and the rental of a bicycle shouldn’t cost you any more than $100-200NT for the day, depending on the size of the bike you rent.

While in town, don’t forget to check out the nearby Luye Plateau (鹿野高台), the Longtian Green Corridor (龍田綠色隧道), the Tung Blossom Avenue (龍田桐花大道) as well as the various other Japanese era homes that are still located in the area.

If you’re lucky enough to be in town during the hot air balloon festival, you’ll be sure to have a great time as its one of the most popular times of the year to visit the area. 

The Luye Shinto Shrine is an excellent example of how Taiwan’s former Shinto Shrines can and should be restored. With the help of Japanese craftsmen, the shrine has been brought to life once again and even though it could be considered to be in a remote location, it has become one of Taitung’s most popular tourist attractions. With that in mind, I’m sure there are quite a few local governments around Taiwan thinking about following the same formula, which could possibly translate into even more reappearing over the next few years! 

Footnotes

  1. 鹿野神社 - 鹿野移民村神社 (神社殘跡)

  2. 日本移民村 (Encyclopedia of Taiwan)

  3. 台灣日治時期日本移民村 (Wiki) 

  4. 台灣神社列表 (Wiki)

  5. Taitung Japanese Immigrants Village - Longtian Village (Hakka Affairs Council)

  6. 神社の千木と鰹木の意味

  7. “Honden”: The Main Sanctuary Structure (Nippon)

  8. Modern system of ranked Shinto shrines | 近代社格制度 (Wiki)

  9. 台湾で完全な形で復元された「鹿野神社」が台東縣にあります (Meilytaiwan)

  10. 歲月的容顏 龍田老照片 龍田蝴蝶協會提供 (龍田歲月)


Sanxiantai (三仙台)

A while back I was having a chat with some friends who had just returned from a vacation to the East Coast of Taiwan. We talked about some of the locations that they visited and what they enjoyed most about their trip.

When they mentioned the most beautiful location on their trip, I instantly recalled my first trip to the Taitung more than a decade ago when I was also new to Taiwan.. 

It was one of those early experiences that helped to cement my lifelong love affair with this beautiful country. 

So when my friends mentioned that they really enjoyed visiting Sanxiantai, one of Taitung’s most popular tourist attractions, I decided to ask a bit more about their experience. 

You see, the last time I visited, the network of trails on the island were still under construction and if you wanted to actually walk around, you had to be adventurous, which obviously wasn’t a problem for me. 

To my surprise though, my friends replied that they just walked halfway across the bridge and then turned back. 

To which I replied: “So, you didn’t actually visit Sanxiantai then, did you?” 

Confused by my reply, I had to explain that the name  “Sanxiantai” actually refers to the island and not the bridge, which has become an iconic image in recent years. 

Unfortunately, my friends aren’t the only ones who missed out.

Quite a few travelers end up visiting the area, taking photos of the bridge and the surrounding landscape and then moving onto the next destination.  

If you ask me, that’s a shame - Sanxiantai is a geologically rich and historically significant island that provides tourists with some great photo opportunities, as well as the ability to quickly walk around and learn about its unique coastal ecology.  

Sanxiantai (三仙台)

Sanxiantai” as the island is known in both Chinese and English, is an ecologically rich off-shore island located in Northern Taitung’s Chenggong Township (成功鎮), and is one of the most popular tourist attractions on the east coast.

The island was originally named Nuwalian (最東之地) and Pisirian (牡羊之地) in the Indigenous Amis language (阿美語), translating as “The Far East” and “Shepherds Land”, respectively. 

Interestingly, it has also been referred to as Diaoyu Island (釣魚台) by early Chinese immigrants, which was a nod to its historical importance for local fishers. 

Note: “diàoyú” (釣魚) in Chinese is the verb “to fish” while “tai” (台) is a “platform.” 

What’s notable about this is that there are a group of islands located between Japan and Taiwan that are also referred to as the Diaoyu Islands (釣魚台) or the Senkaku Islands (尖閣群島) that have been the subject of a decades long territorial dispute between the governments of Japan, Taiwan and China. 

The current name of the island is a more recent one and is steeped in Chinese legend. 

The Legend of the Three Immortals (三仙傳說)

“Sanxiantai” (三仙台) or the “Platform of the Three Immortals” gets its name from the three giant rocks that define the landscape of the small island.

According to a relatively recent tale, each of the rocks represents the footprint of one of three Taoist deities, who are said to have landed on the island at some point in their travels. 

The “immortals” (仙) in particular are Li Tieguai (李鐵拐), Lu Dongbin (呂洞賓) and He Xiangu (何仙姑) and if you weren’t already aware, are important members of the much larger group of “Eight Immortals” (八仙), a source of inspiration and devotion for Taoists. 

Link: Eight Immortals (八仙) 

How the legend about the Three Immortals leaving their footprints on the island came about is something that I’m not really able to answer. There are disagreements about the legends as some people insist that the three giant rocks are “footprints” of the immortals while others argue that the rocks are the “immortals” themselves.

The positioning of the rocks however is an important part of the myth as stories tell of a ‘love affair’ between the only female immortal, He Xianggu and the notorious ladies man, Lu Dongbin, which ended up getting interrupted by the third-wheel on the trip, Li Tieguai, who wasn’t having any of Lu’s philandering and used his god-like powers to drive a wedge between them. 

For a bit of a backstory, the Eight Immortals live on a mythological island known as Mount Penglai (蓬萊仙島), thought to be located somewhere “east” of China. Even though Sanxiantai has never been considered the mythological island, local legends insist that it was simply a resting place for the three immortals on their journey.

Although the earliest mention of the Eight Immortals is thought to have been between the Tang and Song Dynasties (618 - 1279), it wasn’t until the Ming Dynasty (明朝), when Wu Yuantai (吳元泰) wrote “The Eight Immortals Depart and Travel to the East” (東遊記) that their legend started to become popular. 

Considering Taiwan is geographically “east” of China, stories like this, and of course “The Eight Immortals Cross the Sea” (八仙過海) are popular with Taoists here in Taiwan.

The story about the immortals crossing the sea to the east holds special meaning for people here considering that the legends typically focus on each of the immortals showing off their supernatural skills to help the others cross the sea. From this we get the Chinese-language idiom: “八仙過海,各顯神通” which literally translates as “The Eight Immortals Cross the Sea, Each Reveals its Divine Powers”, a metaphor for the ability to successfully work together to achieve a common goal.  

If you’re visiting Taiwan and you visit a temple, it’s very likely that you’re going to see something related to the Eight Immortals, even if you don’t actually realize it.

Likewise, if you keep traveling north of the island to Hualien, you’ll eventually arrive at the “Cave of the Eight Immortals” (八仙洞), another tourist destination dedicated to the Taoist deities.  

The Legend of the Chifawuan

In a legend about the island that pre-dates the tale of the Three Immortals, the indigenous Amis people have their own stories about the island, which I personally find much more interesting. 

According to the Amis, the island was home to a sea-dragon named “Chifawuan” (及發烏安).

Living within a cave, the dragon was considered a protector deity for the local communities, who believed that their fortune or misfortune, were a direct result of human action. 

The thing about this legend that makes it so meaningful is that the Amis people thought of the dragon as a spiritual protector of the environment, which would punish those who took too much from the land and the sea.

So, if you were a fisher and you took more than your fair share from the ocean, the dragon would appear to deal out some form of punishment. 

What we can take away from this tale is an admirable lesson that has remained an important part of Taiwan’s various indigenous cultures in that there should always be an ecological balance with the environment. 

As the tale goes however, the land was once home to an abundance of sea snails (大海螺), which became a prized commodity that the local people used for trading. As this ended up being a lucrative business opportunity, basic human greed took over and the population of snails on the island was quickly depleted.

The dragon was so enraged about this that it triggered a massive earthquake that created the island that we know today, which prevented people from trespassing on it.

Unfortunately, the power it took to achieve this ultimately killed the dragon.  

Official government literature on the subject describes both of these tales as an example of the imaginative legends of local indigenous people and the Taoists that immigrated here and “illustrates the different histories, religions, and cultures of these two ethnic groups.” 

The lessons learned from the Amis tale however remains important in a contemporary setting as humanity looks to find ways to find a better balance with our natural environment. 

Geography of Sanxiantai

As mentioned above, most tourists attracted to the area come under the assumption that the name “Sanxiantai” is actually referring to the beautiful bridge that connects to the island.

The twenty-two hectare island, which prominently features three large mountain-like rocks is estimated to have formed hundreds of thousands (if not millions) years ago.

Geologists link the creation of the island to the eruption of the now-extinct underwater Duluan Volcano (都巒山層), which also formed much of what we today refer to as the East Rift Valley (花東縱谷). 

Science it seems partially agrees with the Amis legend above in that Sanxiantai wasn’t always an island.

It was at one time connected to the rest of Taiwan as a headland, but thousands of years of sea activity eventually eroded away the low lying strip of land between the two. 

Still, when the tide is out, if you don’t mind getting your feet wet, it’s possible to walk across the coral beach to the island. 

But why would anyone bother when you have such a beautiful bridge to enjoy?

Link: 台灣東部知識單元資料庫 (National Museum of Natural Science)

Currently, the island is well-connected with a network of footpaths that have been constructed allowing visitors the opportunity to hike around the island as well as to its highest point, the Sanxiantai Lighthouse (三仙台燈塔.) 

Apart from simply walking around the island, its important to note Sanxiantai is surrounded by coral reefs and has easily-accessible underwater caves that makes it a haven for tropical fish.

The area has always been a popular spot with local fishers, but recently it has also become popular with divers who come to enjoy one the underwater beauty of the island.

Whatever your preferred type of recreation, Sanxiantai is a geologically diverse island that features sea-eroded caves, rare coastal vegetation, a rocky moon-like surface, beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean and of course a great vantage point to look back at the beauty of Taiwan’s eastern coast. 

Unfortunately as I mentioned above, quite a few people show up to the area to check out the beach and the bridge before heading on to their next destination.

I highly recommend that if you are visiting this area that absolutely must walk across the bridge and take some time to walk around the beautiful island as well. 

Links: Sanxiantai (Taiwan Gods) | Sanxiantai (East Coast National Scenic Area)

Ba-Gong Bridge (跨海八拱橋)

Probably the highlight of most people’s visit to Sanxiantai is the famed bridge that connects the island to the rest of Taiwan. The four-hundred meter long arched bridge has become an iconic image for the east coast and any visit to Taitung would be incomplete without checking it out. 

Often confused with the island itself, the bridge is actually named Ba-Gong Bridge (八拱橋), which quite literally means “Eight-Arch Bridge,” but is a name that gets little mention in English-language literature.  

The construction of the bridge (and the success of Sanxiantai as a tourist attraction today) are the result of the hard work of Mr. Lee Hua-dong (李華棟), who is considered to be the Father of Sanxiantai (三仙台之父). 

With the opening of Sanxiantai as a recreational tourist area after Martial Law (戒嚴時期) was lifted in 1987, the construction of a bridge became essential.

Constructed that same year, the bridge is beautifully designed and was done so in an environmentally friendly way attempting to put as little burden on environment as possible. 

Designed to look like a dragon (possibly a nod to the Amis legend), the blue and red bridge also resembles the powerful ocean waves that the east coast is known for. 

Prior to the construction of the bridge, the only way to actually reach the island was to wade through the water at low-tide or go across in a keep. The latter caused quite a bit of ecological damage to the coral bed, so the presence of the bridge today helps the environment by allowing tourists to walk across to the island, without negatively affecting the coral. 

Although the bridge is four-hundred meters long, walking across it might take a while as it can be quite windy.

And because it’s also a great spot for taking photos!

Getting There

 

Getting to Sanxiantai should be rather straight-forward. 

It is situated directly along the Number 11 Coastal Highway (台11線) between Hualien and Taitung, which is probably one of the busiest and most identifiable roads on the entire East Coast. 

Unfortunately the island is quite far from both cities, which is why some tourists might run into trouble getting there.

Located around fifty kilometres north of Taitung City and over one-hundred kilometres south of Hualien, if you’ve got a car or a scooter, you shouldn’t have much of a problem, as it is hard to miss.

Address: #74 Jihui Road, Chenggong Township, Taitung. (臺東縣成功鎮三仙里基翬路74號)

GPS: 121.42168/23.126135

If you find yourself on the East Coast without a car or scooter however, you’re going to have to rely on public transportation, which truthfully isn’t all that convenient or reliable. 

Nevertheless, you do have a few options for getting there. 

  • From Hualien Train Station (花蓮車站) take Hualien Bus (花蓮客運) #1145.

  • From Taitung Train Station (台東車站) take Ting-tung Bus (鼎東客運) #8101, #8101A or #8102.

No matter what direction you’re coming from, make sure to get off at the Sanxiantai Bus Stop (三仙台站)

If you elect to take the bus option, I highly recommend you pay very close attention to the time tables linked above for each of the buses as they don’t come all that frequently.

If you’d prefer not to take a bus and waste time waiting around, there is also the option of booking a taxi for the day that will take you to Sanxiantai and some other locations for a set price.  

The Taitung County Government Tourist Bureau has a list of ‘trustworthy’ drivers that are available for booking, which I’ve linked below. This method might be a bit more expensive, but if you’re traveling with friends or family, it might be a more convenient option. 

Link: Taitung Taxi Tour Drivers (Taitung Tourism) 

Even though Sanxiantai is a bit of a distance from Taitung City, it is still one of those tourist destinations that you absolutely have to visit when you’re on the East Coast. 

With this one I don’t feel like I have to do too much pushing as the iconic bridge has become an iconic image used to promote Taiwan to the rest of the world. 

Unfortunately, if you hadn’t already noticed, the weather on the day I visited was pretty awful.

So, don’t be surprised if you see this space updated sometime in the future with prettier photos.