ROC

Sun Yat Sen Memorial House (逸仙公園)

The Taipei Train Station is the largest transportation hub in Taiwan and from the station you have the option of taking trains, the high speed rail, the Taipei MRT, intercity busses and city buses - You can even grab a YouBike and ride a bicycle around the city!

The area is about to get a lot more convenient in the near future with the completion of the expansion of the Taipei Train Station and the Airport Express project that will offer the same type of high speed express trains that are common in many large metropolitan areas around the world but also MRT access all the way to Taoyuan!

The area around the station is popular with backpackers for its convenience with several hostels available as well as for shopping with the newly opened Q-Square mall (京站), an electronics mall, the Mitsukoshi department store and (I have to mention) Bo-Ai Road (博愛路) which is affectionately known by photographers as "camera street".

Tourism-wise, the area around the station only has a few sites that would be of interest to travellers which include the historic Beimen Gate (北門), the 228 Peace Memorial Park (二二八和平公園), Dihua Street (迪化街) and the Dadaocheng Wharf (大稻埕碼頭). There is however a little known piece of ROC history situated within a park near the station that doesn't attract a lot of tourists and isn't really found in many guide books, but if you're stuck in the train station waiting for a train you might want to take a walk over and check it out.

The Sun Yat Sen Memorial House (國父史蹟紀念館) not to be confused with the Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall (國父紀念館) is a small Japanese-era wooden house situated within Yixian Park (逸仙公園) that is dedicated to the founding father of the Republic of China and is the location where the man, who is known as the "Founder of the Nation" (國父) stayed for a short time during one of his visits to Taiwan shortly after the 1911 Xinhai Revolution (辛亥革命) which overthrew the Qing Dynasty.

Sun Yat Sen (孫中山) is an extremely important figure in modern Chinese history and was the founding father of the Republic of China. Strangely, he is also important to the so-called communist regime in the People's Republic of China which memorializes him as a revolutionary who initiated regime change and allowed for further revolution within China proper.

No matter what your politics are, Sun was one of the most important figures of the 20th century and to this day continues to be one of the few figures revered on both sides of the Taiwan strait. In life Sun was a physician, politician, revolutionary and a writer and was one of the great thinkers of the time and his political philosophy of the "Three Principles of the People" (三民主義) is one that helped modernize Asia with regard to political thought.

Sun can be a bit of a confusing figure to westerners due to the fact that he went by so many names. He was born Sun Wen (孫文) and also went by Sun Deming (孫德明) which later became Sun Yat Sen (孫逸仙) while he studied in Hong Kong and then his most popular name Sun Zhongshan (孫中山) which was "Nakayama" and a product of his time spent in Japan.

If you can keep his names straight you're likely to notice that city districts, streets, schools and parks all over Taiwan go by a few of his names and the park for which this memorial house is situated in is no different as it is named "Yixian Park" (逸仙公園) which is the Mandarin pronunciation of the Cantonese "Yat Sen".

The park is a beautiful Japanese-style garden and is very simple in nature and actually quite a relaxing place to visit in the middle of the concrete jungle of Taipei. There is a small pond filled with Koi fish, tree-covered benches and a pavilion with a plaque in remembrance of Sun.

The house in the middle of the park is where Sun stayed and was a former Japanese hotel named Ume Yashiki (梅屋敷) or "Plum House" in English. The traditional wooden Japanese-style house was built in 1900 while Taiwan was still under the control of the Japanese empire.

Sun made a stop in Taiwan in 1913 for a few days and stayed in the hotel (which was considered to be quite extravagant for the time) before heading to Japan. By that time the revolution to overthrow the Qing Dynasty was complete but the road to democracy in China hit a bump in the road when Yuan Shikai (袁世凱) railroaded the government, instituted a system of warlords and dedicated to proclaim himself emperor which led to decades of strife and the eventual Chinese Civil War. Sun's visit to Taipei was a part of his efforts to start a second revolution (第二革命) which was meant to overthrow Yuan but ultimately failed.

Despite only staying in the hotel for a few days, the hotel was appropriated by the Chinese Nationalists when they retreated to Taiwan and ultimately became a memorial site for the man who they considered to the be founder of the nation. The park and hotel today are not in the original location as it had to be moved to make way for the expansion of the underground Taiwan rail system which fed into the nearby Taipei station. In 1983 the park was closed and moved 50 meters away from the original location reopening to the public in 1987.

Now that you know the history I'm going to speak plainly - You might notice that there are only photos of the park and the Plum House from the outside. I didn't actually even bother stepping into the house. Why you might ask? There are strict rules that you are not allowed to take photos in the house. I don't particularly understand why such rules are in place in this area, it makes absolutely no sense and is probably one of the factors why the park is relatively unknown. It's actually quite unfortunate when you consider that the park is such a nice little space within the city and has the potential to be a nice little tourist attraction. 

When a tourist spot has arbitrary "No Photo" signs all over the place and guards standing around to enforce it, it just makes me want to leave. I'm not sure if others feel the same as I do about this kind of thing, but my primary interest is photography and helping to promote Taiwan. I feel like I'd like to recommend this beautiful park to people but this really left me with a bad taste in my mouth! The government spends a considerable amount of money on the upkeep of the park as well as having staff there to give information to guests and guided tours. If they are investing that money they should probably do a much better job promoting it. 

There isn't much English content available online about this place, so if you'd like a more balanced (non-photographer) opinion about the park, be sure to check out Taiwan Explorer's blog post from a few years back: Sun Yat Sen Memorial House and Yixian park.

If you'd like to visit the Sun Yat Sen Memorial House and Yixian Park simply walk out of the East exit of Taipei Main Station and walk for 2-3 minutes down the Civic Boulevard (市民大道). Entrance to the park is free and it is open between 9-5 each week from Tuesday - Saturday (Closed on Mondays). If you visit enjoy the history and take a photo inside the house as a form of tourist protest!


Cihu Mausoleum (慈湖陵寢)

There are mass plots of empty land somewhere in the deserts of Arizona called "boneyards" where retired jetliners go to be recycled when their time is up. If you've ever seen a picture of these airplane graveyards, they are massive and can almost be described as beautiful despite the fact that they are lined up in order to become nothing more than scrap metal. 

Cihu (慈湖) which translates as "benevolent lake" is a serene lakeside property near Daxi (大溪) in Taoyuan county that has assumed the unfortunate responsibility of becoming a "boneyard" of sorts. 

This particular boneyard however is dedicated to Generalissimo and former President of the Republic of China - Chiang Kai Shek (蔣介石) and the statues that he (like every other dictator before and after him) had fashioned in his image. 

The nicest part of the park? 

When Chiang died In 1975, it was his wish that his body be interned at this site until such a time that Republic of China forces could take back China by force and reinstitute his version of democratic rule over the oppressed people of Red China.

The Daxi river valley area was always an area that the Chiang family was fond of, and both Chiang Kai-Shek and his son Chiang Ching-Kuo (蔣經國) are interned within the village which has become known as a "town of presidents.

Due to Chiang's wishes to return, his body was not prepared in traditional Chinese fashion and was thus placed in a black marble sarcophagus meant to preserve his body until it could be buried in his hometown in Zhejiang Province (浙江省). 

His body has lain in state at Cihu for over forty years and the dream that the Chinese Nationalist Party (中國國民黨) could ever be able to retake the “motherland” has become an impossibility. 

The people of Taiwan have instead forged ahead with their own national identity while the party he helped to create grovels for scraps at the feet of the Communist leadership in China. 

What Chiang was unable to foresee before his death was that Taiwan would develop into a thriving multi-party democracy and that the peace-loving people of this country would completely disregard his dream of taking back China from the Communists. Post CKS-Taiwan has forged ahead with mass development making Taiwan one of the most advanced nations in the world with a population that freely exercises its right to democracy, free speech and liberty. 

When free and open elections took place after the era of Martial Law was lifted, Chiang's KMT soon ousted in the first regime change in Taiwan in over half a century with the people of the country demanding change. 

Part of that change to put it simply was to deal responsibly with Chiang's legacy - Chiang and his regime were guilty of horrendous crimes committed against the Taiwanese people and despite efforts to develop the country, his legacy will always be a contentious one especially for those who lived through those terrible years known as the "White Terror" (白色恐怖) period. 

Chinese Tourists confused as to why they're at the park.

In all there are over 43,000 bronze statues of Chiang Kai Shek (蔣公銅像) littered throughout Taiwan found in front of schools, parks, military bases and government buildings.

Despite a strong desire to have them removed, until now now only several hundred have been moved to Cihu. Moving the statues has become an issue almost as contentious as the man himself as supporters show up to cause a fuss whenever a statue is scheduled to be removed. 

When the KMT retook the presidency in 2008, efforts to remove the statues came to a standstill and those that hadn't been already removed were pretty much left were they were.

This inaction and lack of recognition by the KMT to their past crimes has led to issues of vandalism with remaining statues being beheaded, spray painted and otherwise smashed to bits by people angry with the government or those had their lives adversely affected by the KMT or Chiang Kai Shek.

A kind old man?

A defeated General?

These days the park has become somewhat of a tourist attraction, especially for those tourists coming from China. Tour buses full of people are carted to the countryside and unloaded at the park to experience a bit of modern "Chinese" history. It’s all a bit surreal. 

For Chinese tourists, visiting the park is a lesson in history for a figure they both loathe and respect. They can learn about one of the principle figures in the history of the Sino-Japanese war and the latter Chinese Civil War which in their view "divided" China. 

While visiting the park, I observed quite a few of the Chinese tourists who seemed like they were generally bored and confused as to why they were wasting their time at the mausoleum. I’m sure they’d much rather be back in Taipei shopping. 

An empty shell of a man? (Wounds and Regeneration Statue) 

For locals, visiting the park seems to be great for a weekend escape to a scenic location where they can enjoy a bit of nature. There are of course people who visit the mausoleum, especially on anniversaries of his birthday and his death, who want to pay respect to a man whom they view as a great leader and an important historical figure. 

No matter what side of the fence you are on when it comes to Chiang's legacy, the park is a learning experience for the history of modern Taiwan and China from the 1900s onward.  

The Resting Place of Chiang Kai Shek

The mausoleum is situated a short walk from the park in a beautiful Chinese-style house that was designed to look like Chiang Kai Shek's former home in China. Chiang's body lies in state in the main greeting hall of the building and is guarded at all times by the honour guard of the Republic of China military.

The mausoleum is a stark contrast to that of Mao Ze Dong's (毛澤東) in China which is kind of eerie - Chiang's marble sarcophagus doesn't display his body and the room is quite simple with only a few ROC flags, a portrait and a Christian cross in front of where the body lies rather than the grandiose mausoleum for Mao in Beijing.  

If you want to visit the mausoleum, it is requested that you respect the dead and bow to the former president, or at least show respect in your own way.

I showed my respect by not taking pictures of his sarcophagus and the room he lies in - I'm sure quite a few tourists have snapped some shots of the marble coffin and the room he resides in, but I didn't feel comfortable doing that.  

If you are in Taoyuan and you can't think of anything else to do, send me a message and I'll give you some suggestions for places to visit.

If you can't reach me, you can always stop by Cihu and waste an hour or so.