Hsinchu

Snow in Taiwan?

Snow in Taiwan? Seriously? I thought I left Canada for a sub-tropical country! What's with this flaky white stuff falling from the sky? 

The temperature fell to four degrees celsius in northern Taiwan over the weekend. The drop was caused by a cold air mass that has resulted in the lowest temperatures that the nation has felt in well over 44 years and the second coldest in recorded history.

Low temperature is typical during winter in Taiwan's high mountain areas, but not in ground level areas and places under an altitude of 400 meters which tend to be warmer. Winter months in the north of the country tend to be a bit colder than in the south, but the record-low temperatures brought on by this cold front have been felt even in the south where a lot of cities are below the Tropic of Cancer and are supposed to be far more temperate. 

The problem with such low temperatures is that buildings in Taiwan aren't constructed for weather like this and houses are neither constructed with insulation nor a system of central heating - houses therefore basically become refrigerators that have people living inside.

The sad thing about this is that despite Taiwan being a highly developed country, people die of hypothermia and cardiac diseases caused by the drop in temperature and this weekend has seen quite a few deaths related to the weather. 

Steam rising up from a waterfall with snow on the trees. 

The forecast for the weekend called for snow and people all over the country felt excited that they would be able to see it for the first time. Snow is common in Taiwan's high mountain regions, but people who aren't mountain climbers have a hard time seeing the flaky white stuff without making their way to a mountain-top. With the knowledge that snow was likely to appear over the weekend, quite a few people made plans to get out and see this once in a lifetime event which caused quite a few traffic jams around the country's narrow mountain roads.

When I woke up and checked Facebook on Sunday, my newsfeed was full of people reporting that it was actually snowing in low-lying areas making this an extremely rare occasion for the people of Taiwan. People were really excited and that excitement was all over social media. 

Places like Taipei's Yang Ming Mountain (陽明山), Taoyuan's Lala Mountain (拉拉山) and Yilan's Taiping Mountain (太平山) were loaded with traffic and people were busy playing in the up to 20cm of snow making snowmen and throwing snowballs. 

For me, I have to admit that I enjoyed seeing snow again for the first time in over a decade. I tried to escape the harsh Canadian winters by coming to Taiwan, but considering I've been removed from that for so long, I actually felt content seeing something so familiar.

The experience was a lot like when I was an undergrad in university. Whenever the first snowfall of the year happened, all of the Taiwanese international students would make their way to a field to play in the snow. Canadians get a bit tired of snow and our long winters but its interesting to see that even adults get really excited by this kind of thing in Taiwan.

I hope all my friends in Taiwan stayed warm over the weekend. The cold front looks like it won't last much longer and it will be back to 17-20 degrees later this week! 


Hsinchu City God Temple (新竹城隍廟)

When I write these blogs, I generally take an academic approach to them and I always do my best to present factual information (usually translated from Chinese) to give the best representation of the places I'm shooting. I use all of that info as well as my personal experience and opinions to paint a picture of whatever I'm introducing which means that apart from taking photos, I do several hours of research before writing a blog

My site recently celebrated its one year anniversary (no celebration was had) and after reflecting over the blogging experience over the past year I found that it has taught me a lot about Taiwan and I have learned things that I probably never would have thought to look a bit deeper into. The temple I'm introducing today is a perfect example of how I've been a place dozens of times and never actually ‘fully’ realized what was going on inside. I'm quite happy to say that even after ten years of living here that I still have a lot to learn and through this blog and what I present to people, that I'll always be learning something and I suppose that is one of the most rewarding things about blogging.

The temple I'm introducing today is the Hsinchu City God temple (新竹城隍廟) which is regarded as the most important ‘City God’ temple in Taiwan and the “provincial” (Oh how I hate that word) headquarters of all the City God temples in the COUNTRY (I like this word better) meaning that all of the other City God temples more or less need to pay homage or at least respect to the Hsinchu temple.

The Hsinchu temple isn't the oldest City God temple, nor is it the biggest, so why then is the so-called headquarters of all the City God temples in Taiwan? Well for that answer we have to look at the history of Taiwan and governance over the island. Hsinchu has always been an important place in Taiwan and has a history of over 400 years of development. When the temple was constructed back in 1747 during the Qing Dynasty the city was an important centre for political activity and therefore the Qing (who controlled a small part of the island at the time) designated the temple as the City God HQ for the island. Currently there are over 95 City God temples in Taiwan with the temple in Hsinchu, the temple in Taipei’s historic Dadaocheng (大稻埕) district and the Tainan temple (the first city God temple in Taiwan) being the most important.

The City God Shrine

The City God, or Cheng Huang Ye (城隍爺) is an interesting figure in Taoism and is an important gods in the hierarchy of deities within the religion. His importance seems to me to be very Confucian in nature and is quite representative of ancient Chinese ideas of political ideology and methods of urban development. In the past, cities in China were walled and there were generally four different gates to enter the city with guards stationed at each gate for protection - These ancient gates are actually still visible in many cities throughout Taiwan and China and the gate in Hsinchu near the temple is pretty cool itself.

The function of the City God was to act as a supernatural magistrate of sorts that would make decisions about the city (along side human colleagues), keep it safe and make decisions regarding the final judgement of citizens who lived within the borders of the city. Currently there are over 95 of these temples in Taiwan and each one “presides” over a administrative region of the country. A few centuries ago, these temples would have been off limits to the public and would only be available to local magistrates and people of power. Today however things are quite different and people visit regularly to pray and make offerings to Cheng Huang Ye for keeping them healthy and safe.

Today the temple has several shrines and inside you will find some set up to Taoist deities and important Buddhist figures. There is a shrine to the laughing Buddha (yes, the fat one), Guanyin, the Buddha of Compassion and interestingly enough, the wife of Cheng Huang Ye (城隍夫人) who is considered something of a Taoist version of Cupid. The shrine set up for Mrs. City God is quite important for people looking for romance, people looking for a supernatural way to spice things up and blessings for their marriage. If you visit the temple you’ll often see pictures of recent married couples who have visited the temple looking for her blessing.

The temple is extremely important to Hsinchu and is one of the city's main attractions. It is also one of the older temples in Taiwan and the wear and tear of time and hundreds of years of burning incense is certainly noticeable on the walls throughout the complex. It's not as shiny and elaborate as most Taoist temples in Taiwan and you might notice from most of my shots that it is really dark inside. (For photographers: Most of my shots are really high ISO and have a slow shutter speed to suck up any available light.)

There is a traditional wet market next to the temple that is open in the mornings and afternoon and a night market surrounding it. Within the temple complex there is a strange cafeteria-like set up offering all of Hsinchu’s finest foods making the temple a one-stop shop for all things “Hsinchu”, something you don't often see with the majority of the temples in Taiwan – especially since most temples only provide vegetarian meals. If you visit the temple, I highly recommend you stop at any of the restaurants offering Hsinchu’s fried rice noodles (炒米粉), Pork ball soup (貢丸湯), Taiwanese meatballs (肉圓) and braised pork rice (滷肉飯) or crossing the street for some amazing duck noodles or rice (鴨香麵/飯) if you see a line of people waiting for something that is probably a pretty good indication that something is good at that restaurant.

Now that I've educated myself about the City God and his temple, I'm quite interested to take part in this years City God festival which will fall on November 29th on the Lunar Calendar. My plan is to follow up with a part two to this blog offering a bit more information about the temple and the cool festival that will be happening outside. I have a hard time keeping track of dates on the Lunar Calendar, so basically I have to remember to check in the new year to figure out when I should be back in Hsinchu to check it out – until then enjoy these shots and I hope you learned almost as much as I did!


Temples of Lions Head Mountain

The Lions Head Mountain Scenic Area  (獅頭山風景區) or "Shitoushan" is one of Taiwan's designated national scenic areas covering over 24,000 hectares of land in both Hsinchu and Miaoli counties. The mountain is considered sacred to Taiwanese Buddhists and is a popular weekend tourist spot due to the amount of temples, shrines and monasteries that make their home throughout the mountain. 

The Shitoushan area is also well known for its importance to the Hakka communities which have settled in the areas around the mountain in villages like Beipu (北埔), Nanzhuang (南庄) and Sanwan (三灣) as well as being important to the Saisiyat Indigenous Tribe (賽夏族) who have traditionally inhabited the area.

There are eight well developed hiking trails all of which are several kilometres long and take you through beautiful mountain landscapes with lush forests and river streams. The trails are quite popular as they do not require much in the form of hiking skill or experience and seem more like a brisk walk than actual hiking. 

In the first post about Lion's Head Mountain I covered the first two and the largest of the temples on the mountain. In this post I'm going to briefly introduce some of the other places and things to see on the mountain. 


Yuan Guang Monastery (元光寺)

Yuan Guang Monastery (元光寺)

I've been to Lion’s Head Mountain several times and each time I visited, Yuan Guan Monastery wasn't open to the public. You can walk past the monastery, which is a large one that consists of a large temple in the middle with residential areas and farming areas to the sides.

On one of my visits I took a peek inside the main temple and it was just a large room with a lot of meditation cushions on the floor. It seems like the Yuan Guang Monastery is a very busy monastery and quite a few monks and nuns live there, but so far I haven't really seen any of them. 


She Li Cave (舍利洞)

The Shrine in front of She-Li Cave (舍利洞)

She Li Cave looks just like a normal temple when you are walking past. It has a courtyard covered by rooftop and there is an incense burner in front of a shrine to Guanyin. It is another one of the mountains shrines built into a cave, but there is something a bit special about this one and truthfully even though I've been past this temple several times - I hadn't actually realized there was a cave! 

The Shrine inside the cave

On my most recent visit to the mountain I had a short conversation with the groundskeeper who was not only excited to see someone on a weekday, but that that person was also a foreigner. He told me not to miss the cave inside and to my surprise he led me past a small door on the right of the shrine and brought me into an actual lighted cave behind the shrine.

The shrine in the back has another Guanyin statue and it reaches in behind the shrine in front. The cave however isn't very large and it was a bit damp so I didn't spend much time inside. As I mentioned in the previous post, you have to be careful on this hike that you don't randomly miss some cool stuff. 


Ling Yun Cave (凌雲洞)

Ling Yun Cave and a strange looking statue of Guanyin (觀音)

Ling Yun Cave is a small cave with a shrine built in front of it. There really isn't much to see here as you can just look into the cave through a window in the small shrine they constructed in front of the cave.

Inside the shrine there are some Buddha statues and to the side there is a life size statue of Guanyin. The statue of Guanyin is a little strange looking and is in the design of what I like to call "Catholic-inspired" Buddhist art. The statue doesn't look like a typical Buddhist statue and the lifelike design of it can be a bit scary - kind of like Catholic art. The cave is just a smaller attraction along the road, so you don't necessarily need to spend much time there, especially if you aren't Buddhist - If you are hiking Taiwanese people however they will probably want to stop at all of the shrines and offer their respect. 


Kai Shan Temple (開善寺)

Kai Shan Temple (開善寺)

Kai Shan temple is a Buddhist temple that was built in 1927 and is aesthetically-speaking my favourite temple on the mountain. The temple is quite special compared to a lot of the other temples in Taiwan as it was designed in the style of Northern Japanese temples and thus different from what you'd normally see here in Taiwan. 

The view from the courtyard

The temple is a short walk from the She Li Cave and like the cave it is another temple built into the side of a mountain. The temple's courtyard is really cool with some giant zen-like bonsai trees (盆栽) that are taken care of by the monks who reside at the temple. If you're familiar with the Karate Kid, Mr. Miyagi was really fond of his trees and cutting them was a form of meditation for him. Likewise, the monks and nuns at this temple will spend their time practicing the ancient art with the trees and they will look different each time you visit.

A monk and nun chanting sutras

A monk and nun chanting sutras

The inside of the temple has some really large statues of Amida Buddha (阿彌陀佛), Shakyamuni Buddha (釋迦牟尼佛) and the Medicine Buddha (藥師佛.) Considering that this temple is part of a monastery, there are often monks and nuns working or performing religious activities at the temple as well as cleaning up and taking care of the grounds. 

Peeking in through the front doors

The inside of the shrine room.

The monks will chant a few times a day and the chanting is played on speakers so that the whole mountain can hear. If you visit the Kai Shan temple, try to be quiet and enjoy the scenery and don’t walk around the inside of the temple if the monks are inside chanting as you could distract them. 

Also, don't forget to enjoy the view of the look off from the courtyard in front of the temple. There is a great view of not only the temples and pagodas below but also of northern Miaoli county. 


Ling-Xia Cave (雲霞洞) 

Ling-Xia Cave (雲霞洞)

Ling-Xia Cave is probably one of the most well-known of all the temples and shrines on the mountain. The shrine was initially set up in 1917 during the Japanese occupation period with a Japanese-style Buddhist shrine in a cave. In 1932 (明治35年) a baroque style gate was constructed in front of the cave. As I've mentioned in previous posts (Daxi Old Street and Hukou Old Street) Baroque-style architecture was popular in Taiwan due to the economic prosperity of the day so I guess it seemed only natural to apply that form of architecture to the front of a popular Buddhist shrine. 

The gate constructed in front of the cave has the name of the cave in the middle with the words「山虛」meaning something along the lines of “mountain emptiness”  and 「水深」meaning referring to the depth of the water. There are several translations and I could have the meaning completely messed up, but the meanings are meant to reflect emptiness and the void which are important words in Buddhism.

The shrine inside the cave

There isn't much to see in the cave, it's not that big and if you're tall, you should watch your head while inside. There is a temple/monastery to the left of the cave but each time I've been to the mountain it hasn't been open to the public.


Rock Face Calligraphy (獅頭山大石壁)

Buddhist sayings carved into the mountain

While hiking along the trail between Kai Shan Temple and Yuan Guang Temple you will come across a giant rock face cliff where you will have to walk up a steep set of stairs to continue along your path. The rock face has some pretty cool Chinese calligraphy carved into the side and while you are making your way up the hill be sure to stop and take notice of the beautiful job the artist did. 


Shui Lian Cave (水簾洞)

Shui Lian Cave (水簾洞)

Shui Lian Cave is on a completely different hiking trail and while it is on Lion’s Head Mountain, it isn't part of the main trails where you will find all of the other temples and shrines. I thought I'd include the shrine though as Shui Lian Cave is the largest cave on the mountain. The cave is a short walk up the road from the main gate to the hiking trails on the Hsinchu side. There is a parking lot where tour buses usually park and the cave is a short walk down a steep set of stairs which brings you to somewhat of a river gorge.

The temple from beside the river

If you pay attention to the river you'll be able to see fish swimming around in the river and this is a great spot for seeing different species of birds. The shrine is built into the cave and like all the other caves on the mountain the shrine was built to accommodate the mountain but not destroy the natural environment. The shrine has some large statues of the Buddha and Taiwanese people like to make the trek down the stairs to pay their respects. I'd recommend checking the cave out, but if you are tired from hiking the trails up above, you might feel that there isn't that much to see here. 


I couldn't introduce all of the temples, shrines or monasteries on Lion's Head Mountain due to the fact that on the days I went they weren't open to the public. I tried my best though to explain as much as I could about the temples from what little information there is about them. If you are planning on taking a day-trip to Lion's Head Mountain, don't be afraid that it will be an arduous day of hiking. The trails are quite easy and you can finish it from front to back in a little over 2-3 hours and there are buses from Hsinchu or Miaoli that will transport you between the cities and to the trailhead. 

If you have any questions, comments or corrections, don't be shy and contact me through the comment section below or through the contact section on the menu below.