Japanese Colonial Era

Zhongli Elementary Teachers Dorms (壢小故事森林)

Having recently celebrated the 120th anniversary of its founding, Zhongli Elementary School finds itself on a very exclusive list of educational institutions in Taiwan with such a long and storied history. 

Plans for the construction of “Zhongli Public School” (中壢公學校) started in 1898 (明治31年), shortly after the Japanese took control of Taiwan. The school opened two years later in 1900 and became one of Taoyuan’s (and Northern Taiwan’s) first public educational institutions. 

To celebrate the 120 year anniversary of the school, festivities were held throughout the year and the school announced plans for some restoration projects that would modernize and beautify the campus. 

To coincide with the anniversary, the Taoyuan City Government started a restoration project on the historic teachers dormitories that were once used by the staff at the school during the Japanese Colonial era.

The plan was to have them ready to reopen to the public in conjunction with the celebrations for the school’s milestone anniversary. 

With such a long and storied history, you’d think that finding information about the school would be pretty easy, but that’s not actually the case.

From what little I’ve found from the school’s own literature is that “Zhongli Public School” opened in 1900 and as the number of students steadily increased over the years, several “branch” schools had to be constructed nearby communities - all of which still exist today.

In total, five branch schools were constructed around town, which have all since changed their names and are now known as Chung-Ping Elementary (中平國小), Hsin-Ming Elementary (新明國小), Hsin-Jie Elementary (新街國小), Longgang Elementary (龍岡國小) and Nan-Shih Elementary (南勢國小). 

If you’ve lived in the area as long as I have then you’re probably aware that these schools (in most cases) were the basis for the formation of a community that used the same name as the school.

Most notably “Hsin-Ming Elementary” is known for its popular neighbour, the Zhongli Night Market (新明夜市), which is actually named “Hsin-Ming Night Market” and the Hsin-Ming Traditional Market, which is home to two of the city’s most famous restaurants, Hsin-Ming Beef Noodles (新明牛肉麵) and Yong-Chuan Beef Noodles (永川牛肉麵). 

In the decades since the colonial era ended, the school has changed its name a few times, but no matter what it is called, it is still the first educational institution opened to the public and is an important part of the local history.  

Subtle name changes

  • 1947 (民國36年) - 中壢國民學校

  • 1968 (民國57年) - 中壢國民小學

  • 2014 (民國103年) - 桃園市中壢區中壢國民小學

The topic today however isn’t really about the school itself, but the Japanese-style teachers dormitories that were constructed nearby. 

As I’ve already mentioned, the growing number of students wanting to take part in the public education system, it became necessary to construct branch schools as well as homes for the staff working at the schools to live. 

Constructing “dormitories” (員工宿舍) for employees was a service that the Japanese Colonial Powers provided, especially for civil servants and those working within important industries.

There would have been dormitories that housed police, government officials, teachers, principals, railway workers and many of the engineers who came to Taiwan to help develop the island. 

Today, all over Taiwan many of these dorms are being restored and reopened to the public as tourist destinations in an attempt to help people learn more about an important part of Taiwan’s history.

So lets take a look at the newly reopened Zhongli Elementary School teachers dormitories, which have been (randomly) renamed the “Zhongli Forest Story House” (壢小故事森林). 

Zhongli Elementary Teachers Dorms (中壢國小日式宿) 

You might think that like most school dorms that the teachers dorms would have been constructed somewhere on campus, but in order to provide the teaching staff with a bit of privacy, they were constructed on a nice plot of tree-covered land nearby. 

Constructed in 1917 (大正6年), the three Japanese-style homes are on a plot of land that is about 871 square meters large and would have provided staff with easy access to the school as well as the nearby train station and whatever amenities would have been available in the downtown area at that time. 

Interestingly, from a design perspective, even though there are three buildings, each of them was constructed somewhat differently as they all served different functions. One of them was a typical Japanese style family home, while the other two were more dorm-like in their set-up.

The two single-floor buildings, which are referred to as “Building A” (A棟) and “Building B” (B棟) are typical Japanese-style homes that were constructed with Taiwanese Cypress (台灣檜木) and have beautiful black Kyoto-style roof tiles (黑瓦). 

Building C” (C棟) on the other hand is a bit different from the other two and even though it maintains aspects of Japanese architectural design, it was constructed with brick, has two floors, a nice patio space on the second level and a roof that was constructed using the same type of red tiles (閩式紅瓦) that you’ll see on many older Taiwanese buildings. 

The buildings were used by the Japanese staff of the elementary school from 1917-1945 and then afterwards became dormitories for the teaching staff hired by the new regime for the next few decades before they were more or less abandoned.

Today the dorms have been completely restored and are part of a newly established culture park known as the Zhongli Forest Story House

Now that they’re no longer dormitories, the government had to find a use for the space, so each of the buildings now serves a specific purpose. 

  1. Building A” - A棟 (沐樂居)

GTJ-2019-1031-29.jpg

“Building A” was originally constructed as a dorm that would house two families under the same roof (雙拼日式宿舍), so the interior has several rooms and two large open spaces. It would have been a space for more senior teachers who brought their family with them to Taiwan.

The building is currently used as a revolving exhibition space that is likely to focus on the history of the local area, its people, language, cultures and cuisine.

2. “Building B” - B棟 (儒林所)

“Building B” is a smaller single family dorm (單棟日式宿舍) that was likely used by the principal of the school and his or her family. The home is complete with a couple of bedrooms, an open living room, kitchen and bathroom.

The building is currently used as a fun exhibition space for children to come and learn about Taiwanese history in a fun and interesting way.

3. “Building C” - C棟 (睦森館)

Building C” is the largest of the three buildings and was the space that was offered to teachers and staff with lower seniority. The building was constructed with bricks and as I mentioned above features a red tile roof, which is uncommon for Japanese-style buildings.  The living conditions would have been what you’d expect from a typical dorm but there would have been ample space for everyone living inside. 

The building is currently used as a multi-purpose space for exhibitions, meetings, public lectures, etc. It is also home to a small cafe where you can purchase some drinks and sit inside. The second floor patio is also open for guests to walk up to get a good look at the beautiful red tiles on the roof of the building as well as the exterior of the other two smaller buildings. 

During the week, the space can be a little quiet, but on the weekends there are always events taking place similar to weekend markets with hip vendors setting up mobile coffee shops with others offering a variety of foods. If you visit on the weekend, you should probably expect that there will be quite a few people and the opportunities for photos probably won’t be so good. 

Getting There

 

Address: #52 Bo-ai Road, Zhongli District, Taoyuan City (桃園市中壢區博愛路52號)

The Zhongli Forest Story House is located within the downtown core of the city and is easily walkable from the train station (中壢車站) or the inter-city bus terminal (中壢客運站).

If you’re in town, you can easily grab a Youbike and make your way to the dorms while also checking out many of the other historic destinations within the area.

Located directly across the street from Zhongli Elementary School (中壢國小) and a short walk from the Zhongli Police Dorms (壢景町), the Zhongping Story House (中平故事館) and several staple local restaurants, there is quite a bit to see and do in the space of a single city block, and a five minute walk from the train station. 

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday: 10:30-7:00 

Admission: Free of Charge

If you’re feeling hungry, take it from me, there are quite a few local restaurants nearby that should satisfy your tastebuds.

  • Tseng’s Steam-Fried Buns (曾記老牌水煎包) - A short walk away from the dorms, there is always a big line for these freshly cooked buns and for good reason - they’re amazing. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區康樂路61號

#61 Kangle Road.

  • Old Alley Hakka Noodles (老巷小館) - This Hakka noodle place serves up some cheap and amazing Hakka noodle dishes with the addition of succulent plates of duck. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中正路243號 

#243 Zhongzheng Road.

  • Mama Liu’s Hakka Vegetable Buns (劉媽媽菜包店) - This take-away only store sells steaming hot sticky Hakka vegetable buns and are one of the things you absolutely have to eat if you’re in town. There are meat and vegetarian options, so make sure to let them know which type you want! 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中正路268號

#268 Zhongzheng Road.

  • Papa’s Secret Lover (阿爸的情人) - If you’re looking for some straight up amazing Hakka food, then look no further than this restaurant which has been open for half a century. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中山路401號 

#401 Zhongshan Road.

  • Yong-Chuan Beef Noodles (永川牛肉麵) - If you’re a lover of beef noodles, then this restaurant should be high on your list. Its open 24 hours for your enjoyment and no matter what time of the day you visit, its always jam packed with people slurping up the spicy noodles. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區民權路61號

#61 Minquan Road.

  • The Peanut House (張豐盛商行) - While most locals visit this historic shop for their peanut fix, tourists have been coming from all over Taiwan for a taste of their peanut-flavoured ice cream which is surprisingly amazing. If you’re in town on a hot day, you’ll definitely want to visit. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中正路349號

#349 Zhongzheng Road.

The restoration and reopening of the Zhongli Elementary School Teachers Dorms adds yet another location to the list of places for people to visit when they come to Taoyuan. These dorms, in conjunction with the nearby police dorms show off a bit of the city’s colonial history in an area that is rightfully very focused on and proud of its Hakka history and culture. 

A visit to the teachers dorms won’t take very long and it seems like there is always something interesting going on, so if you’re planning to visit the area, you should definitely add them to your list of places to visit. 


Xiangshan Train Station (香山車站)

I’ve probably said this a million times over the years, but if you weren’t already aware, Taiwan is probably one of the most convenient countries in the world to live in. Almost everywhere you want to go and everything you want to do is done quickly, efficiently and with little fuss.

This is something that constantly amazes the foreigners who come here as most of us aren’t used to anything that even remotely resembles Taiwanese efficiency in our home countries. 

When I tell my Taiwanese friends how awesome this is, they just shrug their shoulders. People here just expect things to be done quickly and efficiently. 

I could cite numerous examples, but I think one of the easiest ways to explain this is through the example of public transportation.

Getting around the country is easy and there are a bunch of options that allow you to safely and quickly get to wherever you want to go. 

Today, you can go from Taipei to Kaohsiung on the High Speed Rail in less than ninety minutes. This isn’t because Taiwan is a small country, it isn’t. A decade ago, the same trip might have taken four or five hours. 

Before that, I’m sure it would have taken even longer. 

The same goes for the highways - Initially the National Highway was a two lane road that connected the north to the south. Today there is a vast network of highways, expressways and elevated freeways that allow people to get where they’re going much faster. 

Less than five years ago, the highways had toll stations that slowed people down and caused traffic congestion. So what was done? An electronic sensor system was created to replace the toll booths, which were completely removed. 

A little over a century ago however, none of this was even imaginable. 

The Chinese considered Taiwan ‘an unimportant mound of dirt’ and had little interest in developing much of anything in their short time controlling portions of the island.

In 1893, a rudimentary rail track was laid between Keelung and Hsinchu for ox-pulled carts. At that time though, a trip around the country wasn’t really even something that people thought about. 

Then, in 1895 the Japanese took control of Taiwan and quickly put into motion a set of plans that laid the foundations for much of the convenience and efficiency that we enjoy today. 

Shortly after taking control of Taiwan, the Japanese started a massive project to connect the entire country with a modern railway. 

It goes without saying that there were many nefarious incidents that took place during the contraction of the railroad. And yeah, as a colonial government, the Japanese weren’t just developing a railroad out of the goodness of their hearts.

The railway became instrumental in boosting Taiwan’s economy and ensuring that the colonial government was able to get important commodities such as coal, sugar, timber and gravel to port where it could all be shipped back to Japan. 

Nevertheless, the end result was something that completely changed the landscape of the island. Once the the rail network was completed and the economy was stabilized, urbanization and development soon followed. Many of Taiwan’s cities started to take form with the local train station more often than acting as the heartbeat of the modern Taiwanese city.

The importance of the railway in Taiwan’s modern history cannot be understated - Many factors contributed to what would become Taiwan’s economic miracle, but the existence of a fully functional railway system was instrumental in Taiwan’s path to becoming the highly-developed country that it is today.

Unfortunately one of the issues with the push for development and modernization here is that older buildings often fall victim to those efforts. In the past few years alone, historic stations in Kaohsiung, Taichung and Keelung Stations have been replaced with much larger modern stations and this is something that has happened all over the country with smaller stations.

It’s a rare treat these days that you’re actually able to find a century-old train station still in use in Taiwan as there are only a handful of them still in operation.

Fortunately one of them is close to home and is an absolute pleasure to visit! 

Xiangshan Train Station (香山車站) 

In 1899 (明治三十二年), The Governor’s Office established the Railway Bureau (臺灣總督府交通局鐵道部) and started construction on the network of railroads that would eventually encircle the entire island.  

By 1902 (明治三十五年), the Shinchiku (新竹) to Nakaminato (中港) line was completed, providing the people of “Shinchuku” (Hsinchu), one of Taiwan’s most populous areas at the time with public transport and a stop at “Kozan Village“ (香山庄) was included.

The line, which in today’s terms stretched from Hsinchu (新竹) - Zhunan (竹南) was a strategically important one, because “Nakaminato” (Zhunan), which translates as “Central Harbour”, served as an important port for the export of goods at that time. 

The original “Kozan Train Station” (香山驛), was a small one and as traffic on the railway increased was replaced in 1928 (昭和三年) with the building that we currently see today.

At that time, additional warehouses and railway dormitories were included as there were plans to further expand the railway to a dual-track system within the next few years. 

Quite a bit changed in Taiwan over the next few decades, but from 1928 until 1989, things pretty much stayed the same at the station.

In 1990, freight and express trains service was put to an end at the station and it was converted into a ‘Simple Platform Station’ (簡易站) under the management of Hsinchu Train Station.

What this meant was that the station would only be serviced by Local Commuter Trains (區間車) and that it would no longer be necessary to have a Station Manager (站長) on site at all times. 

Then in 2013, the station underwent a year-long renovation project to restore the station to its original condition and ensure that it was structurally sound.

One of the reasons why a restoration project became necessary was because at some point, some weirdo had the idea to paint over the natural color of the beautiful Taiwanese cypress used to construct the station into a gross shade of beige - A sorry attempt to hide the fact that the station was constructed using Japanese architectural design. 

The reason for this shouldn’t really be a big surprise as the colonial regime that took control of Taiwan after the Second World War wasn’t a big fan of anything to do with Japan.

The end result of the painting of the station and the attempt to cover up the original design made the station quite a sad sight. Fortunately it has been restored back to its original design and the paint has been removed.  

Today the station is a local historic protected property and it‘s not likely that we’ll see much in terms of ‘modernization’ taking place, which thankfully means that this beautiful train station should be around for quite a while longer as a living testament to Taiwan’s railway history.

Even though Xiangshan Station is considered a smaller station, the number of passengers passing through the gates at the station has been steadily increasing over the past two decades. In 2001, only 82,000 passed through the station, exponentially increasing to 393,000 in 2018. 

This is likely due to a growing number of people moving out of the expensive Hsinchu city centre to the ever-growing Xiangshan District in addition to all the weekend tourist traffic coming to visit the nearby Xiangshan Wetlands

Design

As mentioned above, the current Xiangshan Station dates back to 1928 (昭和3年), and even though it was restored only a few years ago, it has generally remained in pretty good shape over the past ninety years. 

In the official literature you will see that the building covers an area of about “44 square meters”, which might make you think it’s pretty small. The reason for this is that the measurement of buildings in Taiwan is done using an old system leftover from the Japanese Colonial Era that uses “ping” (坪) instead of metric square meters. 

Basically a “ping” is the traditional size of a tatami mat (畳), which is about 3.306 m2. 

So in metric, the building is actually around 145 square meters. 

One of the things that makes Xiangshan Station unique is that it is the only active station remaining in Taiwan that was constructed using Taiwanese Cypress (台灣檜木), also known as “Hinoki” in Japan. 

If you weren’t already aware, Taiwanese cypress is highly prized and extremely expensive. It is highly-regarded for its resistance to decay and its amazing fragrance. The trees are so highly respected here that the oldest are protected national treasures, often referred to as “God Trees” (神木). 

The roof is typical of Japanese architectural design and is covered with beautiful black tiles (黑瓦) and was constructed using the ‘Irimoya-zukuri’ (入母屋造) style. These terms may not make much sense to most people, so what it means is that it was constructed using the Japanese version of a ‘hip-and-gable’ roof. 

With this specific style of roof, there is a main section known as the “moya” (母屋) covering the central core of the building, while the ‘hipped’ portion known as “hisashi” (廂) extends to the outside veranda, giving it a 3D effect. 

The genius in this style of design is that the roof is often much larger than the base and is too heavy to be supported by the main structure of the building. The weight of the roof is evenly distributed using a network of beams to ensure its stability.

Likewise the front ‘hisashi’ section is supported by four beams with brackets on each that help distribute the weight.

To the right of the main entrance, the lower part of the roof extends a bit further to allow for some roof-covered space for people who are waiting at the station. The extension is likewise supported by an intricate network of cypress beams.

If you visit the station, or any other historic Japanese building in Taiwan for that matter, I can’t stress enough the importance of taking a few minutes to check out the genius of the roof design, which in most cases is done without the use of a single nail.

As I mentioned above, prior to the restoration project, someone had the brilliant idea to paint the beautiful cypress an ugly shade of beige and cover the ‘hisashi’ portion of the roof with an an even uglier sign that read: “Xiangshan Station.” 

Now that the station has been restored to its original condition, you can enjoy the beautiful colour of the cypress and the design of the roof, which was covered to childishly obscure the fact that the building was of Japanese design.

The interior of the building is simple and relies mostly on natural sunlight coming through the beautiful windows from the entrance, exit and on the side.

There isn’t actually a whole lot to see inside as the interior consists of a single room that allowing people to pass through the gate to the train platform or to exit the station.

There is a single ticket window where you can buy tickets from the station employees, but most people instead to just use their EasyCard to pass through. 

While inside the building you can sit on the cypress bench and enjoy the simplicity of the building as the mid-section of the wall is covered in cypress tiles while the top is painted in a typical Japanese colour of off-white. 

Once you pass through the gates, you’ll have to walk up the newly constructed skywalk, to the platform that will take you north or south.

The great thing about the skywalk is that it allows you to check out the beautiful roof of the building from above.

Getting There

 

Address: #2, Alley 347, Lane 2, Section 5, Zhonghua Road, Xiangshan District. Hsinchu City. (新竹市香山區中華路五段347巷2弄2號)

How is one to get to Xiangshan Train Station?

You take the train, of course.

The fact that you can still take a train to one of the nations oldest train stations is something quite special, so you should definitely take the train. 

You do however have other options for getting there. 

The station is located only two stops south of Hsinchu Train Station and takes only eight minutes to get there, so if you’re already in the area you shouldn’t have much of a problem hopping on a train.  

As a smaller station however, Xiangshan isn’t serviced by every train headed south, so if you want to visit, you’ll need to make sure that you get on one of the silver Local Trains (區間車). 

Even though Xiangshan is a small coastal district just outside of Hsinchu City, it is also home to the popular Xiangshan Wetlands (香山濕地) and the historic Xiangshan Mazu Temple (香山天后宮), both of which are a short bike ride or walk from the station.

Generally, the majority of the tourists who visit the historic station are usually only doing so to make their way toward the wetlands, so if you’re planning a trip to the area, you should definitely take some time to appreciate both. 

If you’ve got your own means of transportation, but you still want to check out the historic station, simply copy the address provided above into your GPS or Google Maps. 

The station is located in an alleyway and there isn’t much room for cars, so if you’re driving, it’s a good idea to avoid driving into the alley because you might get stuck and cause a scooter traffic jam.  

Likewise, if you’re only in the area to check out the wetlands and opted to take the bus, I still recommend stopping by the station.

The buses all stop a short distance away, so you can easily walk in and grab a YouBike while appreciating the beauty of the station. 

Just across the street from Hsinchu Station you’ll find a large bus stop where you can take any of the following buses: #5801, #5802, #5803, #5804, #5807 or #5823 to the Xiangshan Station bus stop.  

There are only a handful of train stations constructed during Taiwan’s Japanese Colonial Era that are still in service today - and this is the only one built of cypress. 

So, if you’re a history nerd like I am, this vibrant little station is well worth a visit. 

The fact that it is still in such good shape after almost a century of use goes to show that the Japanese don’t really mess around when they construct something.

Sure, there have been some modern additions to the station and it has recently been restored, but the station has successfully stood the test of time and continues to serve the people of Xiangshan today. 


Xinbeitou Historic Station (新北投車站)

For most of us from North America, there’s nothing really special about a train station. 

The culture surrounding public transport just isn’t as important to us.

So if you’re not living in a major city or a model train hobbyist, trains are probably just one of those things that may or may not pass through your town once in a while.

Here in Taiwan though, trains are life.

Taiwan’s railway is not only a popular, convenient and cheap way to travel but has also been an important part of the past century of Taiwan’s development.

And I’m not exaggerating when I say that for a large portion of the population of this country, trains have been an important part of their commute to and from school and work, or at least for domestic travel. 

With over 1691 kilometers of track and a ridership surpassing a billion passengers a year, the importance of the railway here cannot be understated. Likewise the connection that the railway has had culturally with the past few generations of Taiwanese is one that creates a certain level of nostalgia.

With all of that in mind, imagine for a moment how a small Taiwanese community would feel if their historic train station was suddenly uprooted and moved to some random place in another part of the country.

It should be noted that the Taiwanese government has done an exemplary job in recent years preserving (some of) its historic buildings - especially those from the Japanese Colonial Era - but twenty to thirty years ago, the situation was considerably different.

Likewise, the people of Taiwan weren’t as interested, organized or mobilized to fight for the preservation of historic buildings as they are today.

Given that so many buildings of historic importance have already disappeared, so you can be sure that if there is an opportunity to right a wrong and restore one of the most important buildings in your community to its rightful place, the people of Taiwan are going to work together for that common goal.

And they’ll make so much noise that the government will eventually have to do something. 

Such was the case with the historic Xinbeitou Train Station, which today sits beautifully near its original location in Taipei’s popular Beitou Hot Spring resort, as a testament to the past, and the local community’s determination.

The Xinbeitou Train Station (新北投車站) 

For the better part of a century, the Xinbeitou Train Station has been a constant fixture of life in Taipei’s popular Hot Spring Resort.

In fact, if it weren’t for this station, the term ‘Xinbeitou’ (新北投) wouldn’t have even existed. 

The history of the Xinbeitou Train Station is one that goes hand-in-hand with the construction of the popular hot springs resort in Beitou, and it is safe to say that if it weren’t for the station, the resort, which predates the station by only a couple of years, would never have achieved the success that it has over the past century.  

In 1910 (明治43年), plans were made by the Governor of Taipei, which was then known as “Taihoku-Cho” (たいほくちょう / 臺北廳) to start construction on a hot spring resort in the ‘Hokuto’ (北投) area of the city, which was to include public baths, inns, hotels, tea houses, shrines and parks.

When the resort area opened to the public after years of construction, it proved to be quite popular, but there was a problem - getting there took a considerable amount of time.

Not only did it require a long train ride out to Beitou, but once you got there you had to find a way into the valley where the resort was located, which was about a one or two kilometer walk, depending on where you were going.

To solve this problem, authorities constructed a branch-line off of the Taipei-Tamsui Railway Line (台鐵淡水線) which made traveling to the resort area more convenient.

The rail line, which set off from the Beitou Train Station (台鐵北投停車場) travelled a total distance of 1.2 kilometers to its final destination at the hot spring resort which would be named, “Shinhokuto” (新北投), or Xinbeitou, in order to differentiate the stations. 

Link: Tamsui Railway Line (Wiki) | 台鐵新北投線 (Wiki) 

The Xinbeitou branch-line officially opened to the public on April 1st, 1916 and became an instant hit as it made the hot spring resort area much more accessible to the general public.

As the years went by and more and more hotels and resorts were constructed, the modest little train station proved to be far too small to accommodate the crowds, so in 1937 (昭和12年), the station was expanded.

For three decades, the Shinhokuto Station was operated and controlled by the Japanese Colonial government, but as their situation became more desperate in the latter stages of the Second World War (and resources started to become scarce), the government tore up the rail line and used the iron to create a defensive wall along the coast in Tamsui to prevent a ground invasion by the allies.  

That ground invasion never actually happened, but as I’m sure you’re already well-aware, the Japanese lost the war and were forced to give up much of the territory that they conquered, including Taiwan. 

The track was rebuilt in August of 1946 (民國35年) and stayed in operation for another four decades until service on the TRA Tamsui Line was officially terminated on July 15th 1988 (民國76年).

This is where the history of the station becomes a little strange.

The station sat abandoned in its original location for a couple of years after the closure of the rail line and was scheduled to be demolished. Just before the wrecking-crew was about to show up, it was randomly donated by the Taipei City Government to the owner of the Taiwan Folk Village in Changhua, and relocated there. 

The Taiwan Folk Village (台灣民俗村), which opened in 1993 was an odd mixture of an amusement park and a space meant to preserve traditional Taiwanese architecture.

The park featured not only the historic train station, but other unwanted, but historically or culturally significant buildings, which the owner spent decades preserving. 

Link: Taiwan Review - Taiwan Folk Village (Taiwan Today) | 台灣民俗村 (Wiki) 

Not only was the Folk Village home to the train station, but you could also find several historic mansions and temples including the Liuying Liu Family Mansion (柳營劉氏洋樓), Lugang Shih Family Mansion (鹿港施家古厝), Madou Lin Family Mansion (麻豆林家古厝), Chiayi Tsai Family Mansion (嘉義蔡家古厝), Chiayi Liao Family Clinic (嘉義廖氏診所) as well as temple dedicated to Mazu (北斗奠安宮媽祖廟) and the former Taichung Martial Arts Hall (台中武德殿). 

When the Folk Village opened to the public in 1993, it proved to be quite popular with the public and played an important role in the preservation of certain cultural relics that the government was unable or uninterested (at that point in time) in preserving.

The station when it was located at the Taiwan Folk Village.

The station when it was located at the Taiwan Folk Village.

For more photos about the Xinbeitou Station as it looked when it was located in Changhua’s Taiwan Folk Village click the link below from a 2012 Chinese language blog post:

Link: 遺忘等待。彰化台灣民俗村新北投

In 1999, when the infamous 921 Earthquake (921大地震) rocked Taiwan, a considerable amount of damage was done to the historic relics in the park, which forced its closure until 2003.

Unfortunately, the novelty of the park eventually wore off and with declining visitors, revenue and the death of its owner, it became impossible to keep it (and the large hotel he had constructed next door) open.

The property was eventually appropriated by the government and was auctioned off to the highest bidder to recoup almost NT $3 billion in cash that was owed to creditors. 

It was then purchased by a local (and tremendously wealthy) Buddhist organization (大佛山股份有限公司經營), which had some plans for the property, but between 2007 and 2012 not much happened, so it was decided to permanently shut it all down. 

While all of this was taking place in central Taiwan, there was a growing cry from the residents and local officials in the Beitou area, who lobbied for the return of the station to its original home.

In 1996, an article was published in a Beitou Community Newsletter (北投社) calling for the return of the station. The article, which is considered to have been instrumental in starting a movement quickly caught the attention of a local borough chief (里長) and other politicians, who worked with the community to lobby for the return of the station. 

After several years of negotiations, it was agreed that the station would be donated to the Taipei City Government, which would be responsible for the relocation of the station to its original home and to ensure its preservation for future generations

Suffice to say, I’ve summarized things a bit here and it was most certainly not an easy process. 

In 2014, the station was finally returned home to Taipei and after a two-year restoration project, which cost the local government NT $20 million dollars, it finally reopened to the public in 2016.

Today the station is open to the public serving as a tourist information centre as well as an exhibition space that educates visitors about the history of the station and the Xinbeitou area.

Brief Timeline of Xinbeitou Station’s Complicated History  

  • 1910 - Plans for the construction of the Beitou Hot Springs Resort Area are started by the Governor of Taihoku-Cho (臺北廳). 

  • 1913 - The Beitou Public Springs and Beitou Park are inaugurated.  

  • 1916 - The Tamsui Rail Line (淡水線) was extended to ‘Xinbeitou’ to promote tourism.

  • 1937 - Due to the popularity of the resort area, the station is expanded and renamed.

  • 1979 - In a major blow to the local economy, prostitution is made illegal. In a major blow to the railway, the Beitou Bus Station is completed and more people elect to take buses to the area. 

  • 1988 - To make way for the construction of the MRT system, the Tamsui Rail ceases operations and the last train out of Xinbeitou departs on July 15th.   

  • 1989 - The historic station is relocated to the Taiwan Folk Culture Village in Changhua to be put on display. 

  • 1996 - An article is published in a local Beitou Community Newsletter titled 「尋回失散親人,重迎新北投車站」which promotes the return of the train station to its original location. 

  • 2003 - 2005 - Several groups of local residents and borough chiefs pay the owner of the Taiwan Folk Culture Village a visit on several occasions to lobby for the return of the station. 

  • 2007 - With the assistance of the Taipei City Cultural Bureau, an association (北投古蹟公益信託基金專案) is set up to raise funds for the restoration and preservation of the station.

  • 2007 - The owner of the Taiwan Folk Culture Village passes away and the park is auctioned off. 

  • 2012 - Representatives from the local community and the Taipei City Cultural Bureau pay several visits to the new owners of the Taiwan Folk Culture Village to discuss the future of the station.

  • 2012 - The Taiwan Folk Culture Village and hotel are permanently closed. 

  • 2013 - The ownership group of the Taiwan Folk Culture Village agrees to donate the station to the Taipei City Government. 

  • 2014 - The station is disassembled and transported back to Taipei. 

  • 2017 - The reconstruction and restoration project was completed with the station finding a new home in Qixing Park, across the street from the Xinbeitou MRT Station and 50 meters from its original location. 

  • 2019 - The second phase of construction is completed with a platform and rail track constructed in the park adjacent to the Xinbeitou MRT Station. The park also welcomed one of the original trains that would have visited the station when it was still operational in the late 80s. 

Architectural Design and restoration

Today the historic Xinbeitou station sits parallel to the Xinbeitou MRT station. 

If you’re a purist, you might argue that the current location of the station is about fifty meters from where it originally stood - Unfortunately when it was decided that the station would be relocated back to Beitou in 2013, it was already impossible (due to traffic considerations) to place the station in its original location.

So, the bureaucratic process, something that Taiwan is well-known for, took place and several public hearings were held with the local community to discuss the best options for the placement of the station, with several options available for consideration.

In the end, it was decided that the station would be placed within Qixing Park (七星公園), a short distance from its original location with a mock version of the original track running parallel to the current Xinbeitou MRT platform. 

The next decision that had to be made was whether they would restore the station to its original 1916 design or the 1937 expansion.

One of the complaints I have with some of the restoration of historic Japanese Colonial Era buildings around Taiwan is that they often take liberties with the process and that could have happened here as well.

Fortunately it was decided that the restoration project would restore the 1937 ‘Xinbeitou Station’ (新北投車站) and not the 1916 ‘Xinbeitou Platform’ (新北投乘降場), which had considerable design differences.

Photos of the original 1916 version (above) of the station are beautiful, but it was an open-air platform with the only enclosed area being where the ticket office was located. The problem with this design is that it would leave the station open to the elements and limit the ability to use it as an exhibition space.

It would have also meant undoing the architectural changes that took place when the station was expanded.

As it is, the station was faithfully restored to how it looked in 1937 (below) with the exact same dimensions and using 72% of the original materials from when it was constructed over eighty years ago.

The remaining materials are currently used in displays and exhibitions about the history of the station. 

Note: One thing you’ll want to note in the historic photos below is the colour of the roof - the photo on the left was taken just after the expansion, so you can easily see how much was added.

In terms of its design and architecture, the station was constructed with local red cypress and as I mentioned earlier maintains the original dimensions (276m2), but has been earthquake-proofed with a strong foundation to ensure its continued survival.

In addition to being constructed completely of Taiwanese red cypress, the station features a beautiful “Irimoya Hafu” (入母屋破風) Japanese-style eaved roof with copper tiles (銅板瓦) and four round dormer (oxeye) windows (老虎窗) on the front and back.

The roof, which is larger than the building itself, is supported by a network of beams both on the interior and exterior of the building (with a modern addition of a network of thin metal rods connected in place to ensure that the roof remains in place in case of earthquake or typhoon.

On the trusses on the exterior of the building you’ll want to pay close attention as there are carved designs on each of them showing a great attention to detail.   

The round dormer windows on the front and back of the building are one of the characteristics that allows the building to stand out architecturally, but there is something a bit odd about them. 

Uncharacteristic of Japanese design (and attention to detail), the original three windows from when the building was first constructed in 1916 were placed an equal distance from each other.

When the building was expanded in 1937, a fourth window was added, but was further apart than the rest of the windows making the design somewhat off-balance and awkward.

This was done for practical reasons as the construction of the roof and the beams that kept it in place prevented the window from maintaining the same distance as the others.

The interior of the station is currently home to exhibitions about the station’s history, while the ticket booth area serves as the permanent home for the local tourist information bureau.

The interior is spacious and the red cypress shines in the sun with light coming in from the windows on all four sides as well as from the eight windows on the roof. 

For more detailed information about the location selection and photos of the reconstruction process, check out this Chinese language article, which expertly logged the restoration of the station in its current location. 

Link: [台北市] 新北投車站重組 (FORMOSARACE) 

Getting There

 

The historic Xinbeitou Train Station is located directly next to (parallel) the current Xinbeitou MRT Station, which makes getting there a piece of cake. In fact, once you arrive on the elevated MRT, you’ll be able to see the park from the platform.

That being said, not everybody elects to take the MRT to Beitou, so if you’re looking to visit the area and want to make use of another one of Taipei’s excellent forms of public transportation, I’ll provide details below. 

Address: No. 1, Qixing St., Beitou District., Taipei City (台北市北投區七星街1號)

Website: Xinbeitou Historic Station (新北投車站)

Bus Service to Xinbeitou (新北投) or Beitou Garden (北投公園): 

#129, #216, #218, #223, #230, #602, 小6, 小7, 小9, 小22, 小25, 小26 

Click on any of the links for the route map and real-time information. If you haven’t already, I recommend using the Taipei eBus website or downloading the “台北等公車” app to your phone. 

Link: Bus Tracker (臺北等公車) - Apple | Android

If you’re riding a YouBike up the riverside bike way path, you can easily make a detour and ride into Beitou.

To get there, follow the map above or input the address provided above into your Google Maps and choose the bike directions option. Likewise if you are riding a scooter or driving a car, you can input the address above into your GPS to get there.

A word of advice though, parking in the area is quite limited, so if you’re driving a car, expect to circle the area looking for a parking lot or roadside spaces.

The closest parking lot is the Qixing Park Underground Parking Lot (七星公園地下停車場), which has space for around 334 cars but fills up quickly, especially on weekends. 

Once you’re in the area, you’ll be able to enjoy the thermal hot springs (public or private) as well as a number of other locations including the Beitou Hot Spring Museum (北投溫泉博物館), Ketagalan Culture Center (凱達格蘭文化館), Beitou Thermal Valley (地熱谷), Puji Temple (普濟寺), Beitou Public Library (臺北市立圖書館北投分館), etc. 

There is quite a bit to do when you’re in the Beitou Hot Springs Resort area and you can easily fill a day or more checking out some of the sites and enjoying the beautiful Japanese-style community at your leisure.

And hey, while you’re in the area why not try some of the local street food which includes eggs and corn boiled in the thermal water or the popular noodle restaurant Man-Lai Ramen (滿來溫泉拉麵), which serves up Japanese-style ramen using the thermal water in its soup.

The Xinbeitou Historic Station is open for visitors Tuesday to Thursday from 10:00 am - 6:00pm and Friday to Sunday from 10:00 am to 8:30pm (closed on Mondays) and entry is free of charge.  

All over Taiwan we have seen a resurgence with regard to the appreciation of what remains of the Japanese Colonial Era. Former residences, police stations, dormitories, Martial Arts Halls, Shinto Shrines and railway stations like this one have become popular tourist spots all over the country and adds to the list of destinations for tourists to visit. 

The colonial era might only have been but a small piece of Taiwan’s long history, but the effect it has had on the country in terms of its development and its culture has had long-lasting effects.

Certainly one of those long-lasting reminders is the excellent railway network that was designed and constructed at that time and continues to be a popular method of transportation today.

Xinbeitou’s historic train station is an excellent example of that history and its inclusion onto the list of destinations that tourists can visit while in the area is a welcome addition. 

If you’re heading to Beitou to enjoy some hot springs, I highly recommend stopping by the station as well as enjoying some of the other sites in the area.