Miaoli

Long-Teng Bridge (龍騰斷橋)

It has been a busy few days on my site with that little rant I went on - I try not to do rants that often, but there is no denying the insane amount of traffic some good points and some negativity bring. I have a bunch of blog posts that have been sitting and waiting to be posted for a few months now, so I figured I'd catch up with a few smaller ones for the next week or two. 

When you travel there will always be popular tourist attractions that are more or less more interesting than others. The tourist experience really depends on your personal interests or your cultural background and also your idea of what is exotic. For me, I love mountains, landscape and nature. I'm less inclined to be interested in a museum or a place where I have to stand around for too long.  

I've found that if I'm traveling with Taiwanese friends there are going to be tourist attractions that are high on their list to visit whereas I'd likely have something completely different in mind, especially when it comes to time constraints on a trip. This obviously goes both ways and the things that I want to see are likely not as interesting to them. When travelling with friends, you have to find a balance and you will have to compromise from time to time. 

This time, I compromised.

The Long-Teng Bridge (龍騰斷橋) in Miaoli county's Sanyi Township (三義鄉) might be about as uninteresting as it gets for me - but that doesn't mean that it isn't a huge tourist attraction. I've known about the bridge for years and the area near it is oddly always full of people. On weekends the small mountain road is jam packed with people who have travelled from all over Taiwan to visit and of course take selfies and check in with the famous bridge in the background. 

The bridge has become a major tourist attraction and with the neighbouring Hakka village of Sheng-Hsing (勝興村) and its popular train station (勝興車站) makes for a popular day-trip for people wanting to escape the city and get some fresh air. 

The original red brick bridge was built in 1906 during the Japanese colonial period and connected passengers on the old mountain rail line (舊山線) between Sheng-Hsing (勝興車站) and Yutengping (雨藤坪車站) stations. The old line suspended operation in 1998 in favour of the new Western Line - which was faster, more efficient and did not have to waste so much power climbing the steep hill between Miaoli and Taichung. Today the old rail line still exists and on special occasions the government will run a steam engine through it for the delight of tourists - the line however is effectively shut down allowing for the train tracks to become a popular hiking trail.

Nature cares not for broken bridges. 

The fate of the original red brick Long-Teng bridge was sealed much earlier than the old Western Line during the magnitude 7.1 Hsinchu-Taichung earthquake (1935年新竹-台中地震) in 1935 and rocked the western coast of the country and had an epicentre in nearby Sanyi. The bridge was damaged beyond repair and put a lot of strain on north-south transportation making the Coast Line (海線) the only way passengers could travel between Hsinchu and Taichung. This meant that a new bridge had to be constructed as quickly as possible.

A new iron bridge was completed in 1938 and was positioned 80 meters away from the original brick version which was left standing and ironically completely disregarded until 1990 when yet another devastating earthquake shook the country.

When the infamous 921 earthquake (921大地震) rocked the country it further damaged the bridge and the Miaoli county government decided that it was time to dedicate the bridge to the memory of these devastating quakes as well as making an effort to put it on a list of Taiwan's Cultural Heritage Assets. I mentioned that it was ironic earlier because the bridge just kind of sat there for decades and not many people paid attention to it. 

If it weren't for the 921 earthquake further damaging this bridge, it likely wouldn't have achieved the popularity that it has today. This is just another example of a strange phenomenon in Taiwan that my friend Alexander describes as "disaster tourism".

The area is most popular around the time of the year when the Hakka Tung Blossoms (客家桐花) are in bloom which means if you visit between the end of March up until May you will at least be treated to an experience with the beautiful white blossoms in the trees. As I mentioned earlier the bridge alone isn't enough for a day-trip to the area, so most people will include it as part of a much larger day with visits to other locations.

As for me, a few shots were taken, a few plaques were read and while my Taiwanese friends were having their fun I took a short hike down to the river to see if there was actually anything else worth taking a photo of. I can't say that I recommend this place, but if you're in the area you might want to stop in and have a look. You don't need much time to bridge and if you go on the weekend you might be lucky to run into some vendors selling a rare black version of stinky tofu which is quite delicious!


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Photos) 

Hsiang-Tian Lake (向天湖)

A week or so ago my friends and I went on an all-expense paid day-trip to Miaoli which had us relaxing and chatting on a nice comfy bus all the way to Nanzhuang village (南庄) - a popular tourist spot with a Hakka old street and the ancestral home of the Say-Siyat indigenous people (賽夏族)

We started the day learning about Say-Siyat culture at a museum dedicated to the tribe and their history, then enjoyed some time at a mountain-top lake before heading down to have dinner at a Hakka restaurant and then making our way to the Nanzhuang Old Street. Today's post won't be about all of that though, it's just going to be a short one about Hsiang-Tian Lake, one of the destinations on the trip.

Hsiang-Tian Lake (向天湖) which is also known in Hakka as "Yang-Tian Lake" (仰天湖) is a small lake on a mountain at an elevation of 738 meters above sea level. The rare mountain-top lake is surrounded by mountains and due to its elevation is often foggy or misty which makes it appear mysterious. The water in the lake has an odd green tint to it and the colour of the trees surrounding the lake change with the seasons. The lake is thus a popular tourist site and because of that coffee shops, small restaurants and stalls have been set up around it to cater to tourists.

Hundreds of years ago the lake was actually much larger and deeper than it is today - however due to some erosion that took place on the Great East River (大東河) tributary, some of the water receded and land appeared where there was originally water. This new land became an important area for the indigenous tribe to make their homes due to the fertile soil and next to a water source. 

Today, the lake continues to be an important place for the Say-Siyat people and is home to their largest tribe. There is a museum near the lake that chronicles the history of the indigenous group and their culture. Near the lake and the museum there is a large field that holds a festival every two years (as well as a larger one every ten years) called the "Bas-ta'ai" or "The Sacrifice to the Short Spirits" (矮靈祭) which is a three-day festival that has a lot of activities, great food and traditional dancing to honour the "short spirits" at the end of the yearly harvest.

The photos of the lake that I'm posting today were taken with the idea that I would make an attempt to honour what the Sai-Siyat people respected it for - the reflection of the sky. Most of the shots are 10-20 second exposures taken with a wide-angle lens and they capture pretty much the entire width of the lake with the reflection of the mountains and trees near behind it.

The beauty of the lake depends on the season you visit and it seems like most people are greeted by fog and mist. I was lucky on the day we went to have a somewhat clear day, but I was greedy and hoping for a day with blue skies! I hope that when the next "Bas-ta'ai" festival happens that I can visit again and that the weather will be better!

If you have any questions or comments don't be afraid to comment below.

Temples of Lions Head Mountain

The Lions Head Mountain Scenic Area  (獅頭山風景區) or "Shitoushan" is one of Taiwan's designated national scenic areas covering over 24,000 hectares of land in both Hsinchu and Miaoli counties. The mountain is considered sacred to Taiwanese Buddhists and is a popular weekend tourist spot due to the amount of temples, shrines and monasteries that make their home throughout the mountain. 

The Shitoushan area is also well known for its importance to the Hakka communities which have settled in the areas around the mountain in villages like Beipu (北埔), Nanzhuang (南庄) and Sanwan (三灣) as well as being important to the Saisiyat Indigenous Tribe (賽夏族) who have traditionally inhabited the area.

There are eight well developed hiking trails all of which are several kilometres long and take you through beautiful mountain landscapes with lush forests and river streams. The trails are quite popular as they do not require much in the form of hiking skill or experience and seem more like a brisk walk than actual hiking. 

In the first post about Lion's Head Mountain I covered the first two and the largest of the temples on the mountain. In this post I'm going to briefly introduce some of the other places and things to see on the mountain. 


Yuan Guang Monastery (元光寺)

Yuan Guang Monastery (元光寺)

I've been to Lion’s Head Mountain several times and each time I visited, Yuan Guan Monastery wasn't open to the public. You can walk past the monastery, which is a large one that consists of a large temple in the middle with residential areas and farming areas to the sides.

On one of my visits I took a peek inside the main temple and it was just a large room with a lot of meditation cushions on the floor. It seems like the Yuan Guang Monastery is a very busy monastery and quite a few monks and nuns live there, but so far I haven't really seen any of them. 


She Li Cave (舍利洞)

The Shrine in front of She-Li Cave (舍利洞)

She Li Cave looks just like a normal temple when you are walking past. It has a courtyard covered by rooftop and there is an incense burner in front of a shrine to Guanyin. It is another one of the mountains shrines built into a cave, but there is something a bit special about this one and truthfully even though I've been past this temple several times - I hadn't actually realized there was a cave! 

The Shrine inside the cave

On my most recent visit to the mountain I had a short conversation with the groundskeeper who was not only excited to see someone on a weekday, but that that person was also a foreigner. He told me not to miss the cave inside and to my surprise he led me past a small door on the right of the shrine and brought me into an actual lighted cave behind the shrine.

The shrine in the back has another Guanyin statue and it reaches in behind the shrine in front. The cave however isn't very large and it was a bit damp so I didn't spend much time inside. As I mentioned in the previous post, you have to be careful on this hike that you don't randomly miss some cool stuff. 


Ling Yun Cave (凌雲洞)

Ling Yun Cave and a strange looking statue of Guanyin (觀音)

Ling Yun Cave is a small cave with a shrine built in front of it. There really isn't much to see here as you can just look into the cave through a window in the small shrine they constructed in front of the cave.

Inside the shrine there are some Buddha statues and to the side there is a life size statue of Guanyin. The statue of Guanyin is a little strange looking and is in the design of what I like to call "Catholic-inspired" Buddhist art. The statue doesn't look like a typical Buddhist statue and the lifelike design of it can be a bit scary - kind of like Catholic art. The cave is just a smaller attraction along the road, so you don't necessarily need to spend much time there, especially if you aren't Buddhist - If you are hiking Taiwanese people however they will probably want to stop at all of the shrines and offer their respect. 


Kai Shan Temple (開善寺)

Kai Shan Temple (開善寺)

Kai Shan temple is a Buddhist temple that was built in 1927 and is aesthetically-speaking my favourite temple on the mountain. The temple is quite special compared to a lot of the other temples in Taiwan as it was designed in the style of Northern Japanese temples and thus different from what you'd normally see here in Taiwan. 

The view from the courtyard

The temple is a short walk from the She Li Cave and like the cave it is another temple built into the side of a mountain. The temple's courtyard is really cool with some giant zen-like bonsai trees (盆栽) that are taken care of by the monks who reside at the temple. If you're familiar with the Karate Kid, Mr. Miyagi was really fond of his trees and cutting them was a form of meditation for him. Likewise, the monks and nuns at this temple will spend their time practicing the ancient art with the trees and they will look different each time you visit.

A monk and nun chanting sutras

A monk and nun chanting sutras

The inside of the temple has some really large statues of Amida Buddha (阿彌陀佛), Shakyamuni Buddha (釋迦牟尼佛) and the Medicine Buddha (藥師佛.) Considering that this temple is part of a monastery, there are often monks and nuns working or performing religious activities at the temple as well as cleaning up and taking care of the grounds. 

Peeking in through the front doors

The inside of the shrine room.

The monks will chant a few times a day and the chanting is played on speakers so that the whole mountain can hear. If you visit the Kai Shan temple, try to be quiet and enjoy the scenery and don’t walk around the inside of the temple if the monks are inside chanting as you could distract them. 

Also, don't forget to enjoy the view of the look off from the courtyard in front of the temple. There is a great view of not only the temples and pagodas below but also of northern Miaoli county. 


Ling-Xia Cave (雲霞洞) 

Ling-Xia Cave (雲霞洞)

Ling-Xia Cave is probably one of the most well-known of all the temples and shrines on the mountain. The shrine was initially set up in 1917 during the Japanese occupation period with a Japanese-style Buddhist shrine in a cave. In 1932 (明治35年) a baroque style gate was constructed in front of the cave. As I've mentioned in previous posts (Daxi Old Street and Hukou Old Street) Baroque-style architecture was popular in Taiwan due to the economic prosperity of the day so I guess it seemed only natural to apply that form of architecture to the front of a popular Buddhist shrine. 

The gate constructed in front of the cave has the name of the cave in the middle with the words「山虛」meaning something along the lines of “mountain emptiness”  and 「水深」meaning referring to the depth of the water. There are several translations and I could have the meaning completely messed up, but the meanings are meant to reflect emptiness and the void which are important words in Buddhism.

The shrine inside the cave

There isn't much to see in the cave, it's not that big and if you're tall, you should watch your head while inside. There is a temple/monastery to the left of the cave but each time I've been to the mountain it hasn't been open to the public.


Rock Face Calligraphy (獅頭山大石壁)

Buddhist sayings carved into the mountain

While hiking along the trail between Kai Shan Temple and Yuan Guang Temple you will come across a giant rock face cliff where you will have to walk up a steep set of stairs to continue along your path. The rock face has some pretty cool Chinese calligraphy carved into the side and while you are making your way up the hill be sure to stop and take notice of the beautiful job the artist did. 


Shui Lian Cave (水簾洞)

Shui Lian Cave (水簾洞)

Shui Lian Cave is on a completely different hiking trail and while it is on Lion’s Head Mountain, it isn't part of the main trails where you will find all of the other temples and shrines. I thought I'd include the shrine though as Shui Lian Cave is the largest cave on the mountain. The cave is a short walk up the road from the main gate to the hiking trails on the Hsinchu side. There is a parking lot where tour buses usually park and the cave is a short walk down a steep set of stairs which brings you to somewhat of a river gorge.

The temple from beside the river

If you pay attention to the river you'll be able to see fish swimming around in the river and this is a great spot for seeing different species of birds. The shrine is built into the cave and like all the other caves on the mountain the shrine was built to accommodate the mountain but not destroy the natural environment. The shrine has some large statues of the Buddha and Taiwanese people like to make the trek down the stairs to pay their respects. I'd recommend checking the cave out, but if you are tired from hiking the trails up above, you might feel that there isn't that much to see here. 


I couldn't introduce all of the temples, shrines or monasteries on Lion's Head Mountain due to the fact that on the days I went they weren't open to the public. I tried my best though to explain as much as I could about the temples from what little information there is about them. If you are planning on taking a day-trip to Lion's Head Mountain, don't be afraid that it will be an arduous day of hiking. The trails are quite easy and you can finish it from front to back in a little over 2-3 hours and there are buses from Hsinchu or Miaoli that will transport you between the cities and to the trailhead. 

If you have any questions, comments or corrections, don't be shy and contact me through the comment section below or through the contact section on the menu below.