Photo Post

Yuanzui Mountain (鳶嘴山)

In the short time that drone photography has become more accessible to the greater public, I've seen some really creative photos and also some amazing videos which I believe gives a whole new perspective to photography. I have to admit though that I have some mixed feelings about the whole thing. 

Whenever I see something cool, I'll show my respect to the photographer - I realize that a lot of work goes into not only travelling to certain locations, but also flying the drones and getting the shots necessary to make a beautiful photo or video.

My reservations are quite simple - Drone photography has the ability to invade people's privacy and in some cases has become a tool for people with nefarious purposes to spy on people in the privacy of their homes. It seems that we see something in the news almost every week about some pervert with a drone doing something stupid.  

Why am I talking about all of this?

A few years ago I saw a video made with a drone shared on social media. The video was taken from the top of a mountain here in Taiwan and was so well-made that my jaw dropped at the sheer beauty of the landscape.

Link: Beautiful Yuanzui Mountain Drone Video by 王志文

The video was taken on the peak of one of Taiwan's "xiao bai-yue" (小百岳) or one of the "100 peaks in the country between 1000-3000 meters above sea level. 

Surprisingy, the mountain was a well-known one with Taiwan's avid hiking community but was also one that was quickly becoming popular with the young and beautiful Instagrammers of the world who are constantly on the look out for a beautiful place to take photos.

The mountain, known as Yuanzui Mountain (鳶嘴山) or "Birds Beak Mountain" is most attractive due to the fact that it gives people with even novice hiking ability the chance to climb to one of Taiwan's high peaks and also because the the view from the peak offers amazing 360 degree panoramic views of the mountains and valleys below.

At 2,180 meters (7,152 feet), the mountain is a relatively high one but as it is one of the peaks that belongs to North-Eastern Taiwan's Snow Mountain Range (雪山山脈), it is actually a bit of a baby compared to some of its neighbours which rise up to as high as 3,886 meters.

Don't let that dismay you however as it is one of the most accessible of the "Bai-yue" peaks and does not require hikers to stay overnight or apply for a permit months in advance.

The Hike

Yuanzui Mountain is situated within Taichung's Snow Mountain National Forest Park (大雪山國家森林遊樂區) and is a short hour-long drive outside of Taichung city. With no public transportation available however, the mountain is really only accessible to those who can arrange their own transportation.

This means that for a lot of people, a day trip from Taipei can be a bit difficult if you don't have a car.

Hikers don't necessarily need to apply for a permit before hiking this mountain but it is a good idea while on your way up to the trailhead to stop in at Taichung Police Bureau's Heping Precinct (和平分局大棟派出所) to "sign-in" which more or less just requires you to fill in your name, ID number/passport number and phone number to let the police know you are up on the mountain in case of emergency.

The police station is a few kilometres ahead of the trailhead and can't really be missed as you'll see a bunch of cars parked alongside the small mountain road with hikers inside signing in.

If you don't want to take the few minutes to sign in, its up to you, no one is going to check for a permit at the trailhead, but if there is an emergency its better to be safe than sorry.

I have climbed the mountain on two separate occasions and on both trips it took no more than three hours to complete the hike - I travel quite quickly and rarely stop for breaks though, so if you are planning on doing this hike, at least plan for four or five hours. This means that you should be at the trailhead before noon so that you don't end up losing light at the end of the day.

The trail to the peak is well-developed and also well-marked but it is important that when you hie, the mountain that you travel in a group and don't travel alone. 

There are dangerous portions of the hike, so it is important that you take extreme caution and make sure that you are comfortable with using the ropes and climbing up and down a rock face before making an attempt to hike this one.

With that being said though, if I had a ten year old son or daughter, I wouldn't hesitate to take them for a hike on this mountain. If you are in relatively good shape and aren't' afraid of heights, you shouldn't have any problem.

The payoff for those who do complete the hike are beautiful panoramic views of the Snow Mountain range and Taiwan's alpine environment. 

As mentioned above, in recent years the peak of Yuanzui Mountain has become a popular place for the young and beautiful people of Instagram to get a selfie. This means that you're going to run into quite a few 'novice' hikers on the trail who have no idea what they're getting themselves into.

The popularity of the mountain means that there is often a bit of congestion on the trail, especially on the sections where ropes are required to pull yourself up and if you end up hiking on a hot day, waiting around in the sun could possibly cause you to get sunburnt or heat stroke. So, when hiking the mountain, its important that you dress appropriately and also bring enough water and food with you in case you start to feel weak.

The hike can be split up into a few different sections - The first section is probably the most tiring part of the whole hike. It is a walk up a tree-covered hill and is probably the most difficult part of the hike where you'll find yourself starting to sweat within the first few minutes.

The second part is where you have to start using ropes and climbing up the rocky side of the mountain. This part is probably one of the funnest and also one of the busiest sections of the hike due to the fact that people tend to go up quite slowly and/or freak out.

The third part is the peak where people tend to hang out for a little while, take photos and have something to eat. The peak is really beautiful and a lot of people want to wait to get their photos on top so you may have to wait around for a little while.

The next part is the way down and basically you have a choice - You can go down the same way you came. If the trail is busy it's probably not the best idea to go down that way. Personally I think the best route is to compete the entire hike by following the trail to the rear trailhead.

The way down is just as fun as the way up and if you enjoy rock climbing you're going to like it. If you're afraid of heights on the other hand you're going to have a difficult time.

Hiking down the mountain, like the way up goes in two different sections - The first is an open faced rock climb down while the second part is a forest-covered walk down the hill to the trailhead. The walk down is a fun one and is the place where I ran into a Formosan Blue Pheasant (藍腹鷴) feeding on seeds on the ground.

The trail is known for its wildlife, and there are signs at the trailhead that mention that there is a possibility of running into one of the extremely rare Formosan Black bears,  so make sure to keep your eyes open while walking around and you might see something special.

This hike has become a popular one over the past few years - I'd like to think that we can thank the amazing video I posted above for that but I'm assuming it was more of an Instagram thing that brought it the popularity it enjoys today. No matter what the reason, the popularity this mountain is enjoying at the moment is well deserved. It is a great day-hike and gives even the most inexperienced of hikers an excellent climbing experience.

If you do plan on taking up the challenge, make sure to dress properly, bring enough water, something to eat and prepare for a mild workout. If you're afraid of heights, you may want to bring a friend with you who can cover your eyes or push you to test your limits.

Trailhead Map / Location 


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Shots)

Qishan Martial Arts Hall (旗山武德殿)

Over the past few months I've posted a few times about some of the beautiful remnants of Taiwan's Japanese Colonial Period. The colonial era lasted only five decades but in the short time that the Japanese controlled Taiwan, they helped to modernize the islands infrastructure and education and helped foster the importance of democratic governance all of which has had a lasting effect on the people of this tiny island nation.

It has been more than seven decades since the Colonial Era ended and while there are still quite a few well preserved examples of Japanese architecture left in Taiwan, most of the remaining buildings are in a state of decay and are in desperate need of not only recognition for their historical significance but some much needed maintenance and renewal.

So far I've posted several blogs about two of the remaining Shinto Shrines (Taoyuan and Tungxiao) while also posting about several Butokuden (武德殿) or "Martial Arts Halls" (Daxi, Longtan, Changhua, Tainan) as well as the soon-to-be restored Japanese Police Dormitories in Zhongli and the Timber Industry Dormitories in Jhudong.

These Martial Arts Halls, Shinto Shrines and former dormitories were quite common in almost every city in Taiwan during the colonial era but few are left remaining today and that is why their preservation and telling their story are so important.

If you haven’t already, I recommend stopping here and first reading my introduction to Taiwan’s Martial Arts Halls, which provides an overview of the purpose of the buildings, their history and where else you’re able to find them around the country!

Link: Martial Arts Halls of Taiwan (臺灣的武德殿)

If you’re up to date with all of that, let’s just get into it!

Qishan Martial Arts Hall (旗山武德殿)

Kaohsiung is home to two Martial Arts Halls with one in the city near the harbour and the other on the outskirts of the city in Qishan District (旗山區).

Qishan is a popular area within Kaohsiung that is renowned for its bananas and its Old Street (旗山老街). The district was once an economic powerhouse thanks not only to its successful banana production but also because of the sugar industry which became an important part of the Sugar Monopoly during the Japanese Colonial Era.

Like a lot of the other places where you find "old streets" in Taiwan, the area had to find new ways to make a living due to sudden changes in the economy. The town is now a tourist attraction for people who want to enjoy a carnival-like atmosphere while walking through a historic town.

Today while walking through the old street you'll be able to find banana-related products which include amazing drinks, cakes, cookies, etc. The sugar industry was what made the town most successful though and is what attracted the Japanese Colonial government most as the production and distribution of sugar was important and was an industry that had to be modernized so that the valuable product could be distributed throughout the Japanese empire.

The government began to re-develop the town and the urban planning that you see today while walking the streets of Qishan is quite indicative of Japanese urban planning of that era. The old-street portion of the town is beautifully designed and like a lot of other old streets in Taiwan, the buildings were designed in the baroque architectural design.

The town is also full of buildings of Japanese origin whuch most notably include former police dormitories and teachers dorms in addition to the schools and the Martial Arts Hall which were all a product of that era.

Like every other Martial Arts Hall in Taiwan, the Qishan Hall is conveniently located next to the former police station and dormitories as well as Qishan Elementary School (旗山國小) - which was built in 1898 shortly after the Japanese took governing control of Taiwan.

The location was a a key factor to the Japanese as the stated purpose of the Martial Arts Halls was to help train the police and military, offer martial arts classes to children and instill a sense of Japanese-spirit within the youth of Taiwan.

Today the Martial Arts Hall sits between the school and the former police station and is on the grounds of the elementary school's athletic track.

The Martial Arts Hall was constructed in 1934 (昭和9年) and offered Martial Arts education until the end of the colonial era when it was then repurposed for usage by the local police precinct. Like the other remaining Martial Arts Halls in Taiwan today, the incoming government found a usage for the building which was ultimately the reason why it wasn't destroyed by the Kuomintang during their 1970s campaign to rid Taiwan of Japanese cultural influence.

Originally built with a mixture of wood and concrete, the Martial Arts Hall and the administrative office behind it survived until 1994 when it "caught fire" and burnt down. The frame of the building sat there for several years until the local government could amass the funds and make plans to restore the hall to its original condition.

The reconstruction of the Hall started in 2000 and was completed a year later in 2001. The reconstruction of the Martial Arts Hall however led to public discontent with regard to the design which saw the design of the original roof being replaced by some odd-looking glass monstrosity.

The glass roof remained for almost a decade before public pressure led to the government caving in and returning the roof to its original state.

People power for the win!

The Qishan Hall was originally built with a combination of Japanese and Western construction techniques mixing brick, concrete and beautiful Taiwanese cypress and the reconstruction stayed true to that design. What we typically consider as traditional Japanese architecture was historically influenced by the architecture of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and the roof of this building is very characteristic of the architecture of that era.

While some people may identify the building as one that is very 'Japanese' in design, its important to note that the architectural style is a nod to Japan's historic relationship with China in the early stages of its development.

The wooden roof has four sides and rises to resemble a mountain-like structure known as a "hip-and-gable roof" (懸魚) with "owl's tail" (鴟尾) decorations on each end. The most interesting thing I noticed about the the roof though (and is something that differs from some of the other Martial Arts halls that I've seen thus far on this little project of mine) is that the various roof trusses and gables are adorned with the words Budō "武德“. This is the same with the case of the Martial Arts Halls in Changhua, Erlin and Kaohsiung but not of those in the north.

The interior of the Hall is open to the public and looks a lot like that of the Martial Arts Hall in Daxi and Tainan. The reconstructed hardwood floor is beautiful and shines from the windows that surround the building giving it beautiful natural light.

The Interior of the Martial Arts Hall with a local Art exhibition taking place. 

On the day I visited the hall the doors opened around 1pm and had a display of the art of local artists who contributed to an exhibition. I suppose the space is likely a pretty good one to be used for local exhibitions which is great for the people living in Qishan.

The administration hall that sits behind the main hall was also completely restored and is a beautifully designed Japanese-style office/home that is used as a place for locals to sit and enjoy some coffee or tea. The doors are open on both sides and there is a nice breeze, so I can imagine it would be a great place to go and read a book. On the day I visited there were a few models dressed up in Cosplay uniforms with photographers taking their photos as well as a few couples enjoying some tea. The interior has quite a few kimonos as well as several Japanese decorations which makes it a nice place to visit.

The Qishan Martial Arts Hall is wonderfully reconstructed and is in excellent shape. If you find yourself in Qishan visiting the beautiful Old Street I highly recommend a stop over at the Martial Arts Hall which is only a short walk from the street. If you have some extra time you can even cross the street behind the hall and take the short walk up the hill behind it to check out one of the largest Confucius Temple's in the whole of Asia


Getting There

 

Dome of Light (光之穹頂)

When I first came to Taiwan over a decade ago one of my first trips south was to the southern city of Kaohsiung. One of my university classmates lived in the area and I spent a few weekends down there visiting whenever I had free time.

I'm not going to lie and tell you that my initial impressions of the city weren't that great. It was a mess at the time. It was 2005 and the city was going through a massive construction project that not only messed up traffic but the way the city looked and the air that I was breathing.

Kaohsiung however grew on me - As Taiwan's largest southern city, there is a lot going for this beautiful harbour town. The weather is beautiful and there are not only mountains all over the place but also beautiful beaches and of course, wild monkeys. You can't even imagine the excitement wild monkeys brings to a small town Canadian boy.

The reason for all of the construction and pollution were quite simple - Kaohsiung was in the midst of a massive public transportation project building the Kaohsiung Mass Rapid Transit System (高雄都會區大眾捷運系統). Despite the typical scandals and construction accidents that you'd expect from a major Taiwanese construction project of its kind, the subway system opened to the public during the Lunar New Year holiday of 2008 which the official opening taking place a month later.

Currently the system has over 45 stations and three lines with plans to open more in the future spreading outside of Kaohsiung City into neighbouring Kaohsiung county and Pingdong County as well as adding a Light Rail system that is set to open during the summer of this year and will circle the city on ground level.

The Kaohsiung subway system opened to quite a bit of fanfare thanks not to the public transportation convenience that it brought to the people of the city but for the beautiful design of some of its metro stations.

The Formosa Boulevard Station (美麗島車站), one of the transport system's major transit stations, in particular is one of the stations that has received worldwide attention.

The station is named after the "Formosa Incident" (美麗島件事), one of Taiwan's major pro-democracy demonstrations that occurred nearby on December 10th, 1979 and is widely regarded as one of the most important demonstrations that galvanized the Taiwanese community into political action and led to the eventual democratization of the country.

The reason for all the attention however was not in remembrance of the incident itself but for the beautiful "Dome of Light" art display which has become a common sight for the tens of thousands of people transiting through the station each day.

The "Dome of Light" was designed by Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata (known in Taiwan as "水仙大師") and is a 30 meter in diameter piece of glass art made up of over 4,500 glass panels and covers an area of 660 square meters.

Taking four years to complete, the dome is said to tell the story of human life in four different themes: Water: The Womb of Life; Earth: Prosperity and Growth; Light: The Creative Spirit; and Fire: Destruction and Rebirth, with a message of love an tolerance and is an excellent commeration to the heroes who helped usher political changes in this country that ensured civil liberties and freedom for all. 

Since opening to the public, the "Dome of Light" has garnered international acclaim and was named by an American travel publication as the second most beautiful subway station in the world. The station became an instant hit with the people of Taiwan and became an instant tourist hit for the people of this country.

Even today, almost a decade after the opening of the station, you are bound to meet large crowds of people who come to enjoy the beauty of the public art display and the light shows that it puts on periodically throughout the day.

During my years of living in Taiwan, Kaohsiung has gone through tremendous changes. The city has transformed itself into a clean, beautiful place to visit with an emphasis put on art and design that is sure to make Kaohsiung an even more attractive place not only to visit, but to settle down.