Taoyuan

Tung Blossoms (油桐花)

Growing up in Canada for the first 22 years of my life, one thing I could always count on was that the first few months of the year would be both cold and full of snow. This year was a long winter for Canadians and even though its May, I've seen people from home posting on social media that it is STILL snowing! I'm sure most Canadians would agree that while our winter has its beauty, it tends to get old quick and we all eagerly await the arrival of spring! 

My life in Taiwan on the other hand is completely different as the natural environment seems to change colours almost monthly. When the colours change here, it is a great time for photography as there is always something new to shoot and always a reason to get out and enjoy nature! 

The first few months of the year bring us Taiwan Cherries (山櫻花)Rhododnendron (杜鵑花), Peach Blossoms (桃花), Yoshino Cherries (吉野櫻) and Calla Lilies (海芋) which in turn bring out massive crowds of people to the places they grow. The people of Taiwan have a lot of respect for their natural environment as well as the abundant floral environment that we have here, so these areas have become tourist attractions especially in spring when people tend to relax and have more vacation time.  

White Tung Blossom Mountains. 

In April and May forests in the country turn white with the popular Tung Blossoms (油桐花) that line mountains and hillsides around the country. Taiwanese people often refer to Tung Blossoms as "April Snow" or "May Snow" (depending on when they are in full bloom) and their arrival attracts people from all over the country.  

The Tung Tree (油桐樹), a deciduous tree that can grow up to 20 meters tall and is endemic to south China and Burma was originally brought to Taiwan by the Japanese during the occupation period and was planted in mountainous areas in north-western Taiwan. 

The cultivation of the tree was important economically to the Hakka people who lived in the areas where the trees were planted and thus started a long-lasting relationship between the Hakka people and the tree that continues to this day. 

The tree brought with it economic benefits as its seeds were instrumental in the production of Tung Oil which was used to make paint, varnish, caulking and wood finish while the wood in turn was used for making everything from furniture to toothpicks. 

Blossoms that have landed on a moss-covered stone. 

Blossoms that have landed on a moss-covered stone. 

When the economic benefits of the Tung tree eventually subsided, the tree transformed into a symbol of the Hakka people who showed their respect for the economic prosperity the tree brought them. 

In 2002 the Council for Hakka Affairs started the "Hakka Tung Blossom Festival" (客家桐花祭) an annual event that takes places during the blooming season as a way to promote Hakka culture. The event attracts crowds of people into Hakka-dominant areas of the country to not only see the Tung Blossoms but to experience Hakka culture and cuisine. 

Tung Blossoms on a Mountain Hiking Trail. 

When Tung Blossoms are in bloom, there are areas set up in New Taipei City (新北市), Taoyuan (桃園市), Hsinchu (新竹縣) and Miaoli (苗栗縣) where people can view the blossoms and in turn experience Hakka culture.

One of the coolest things about the Tung blossoms is that in areas where they grow in abundance they tend to turn hiking trails 'white' as the blossoms fall to the ground. The blossoms falling also gives off an effect of snow falling in the forests which is beautiful as hundreds of them are falling around you while you're hiking. 

On the weekends people will travel from all parts of the country to come and see the blossoms, hike a bit and have some food. 

Tung Blossoms in a mountain stream. 

Tung Blossoms are popular with people of all ages, but recently especially with young Taiwanese couples who enjoy hiking into the mountains to have impromptu photoshoots with the Tung Blossoms.

Its also common that people will gather some of the blossoms that have fallen on the ground and arrange them into hearts or other shapes or even make a Tung blossom halo that they put around their heads. I visited two different areas to get the shots I used in this blog and in the areas I visited I saw the blossoms arranged in heart shapes, in the shape of Taiwan, and in the Chinese character for love (愛) 

Personally, I much prefer taking shots of the blossoms in their natural surroundings. I like taking shots of them while they're still on the tree and I like how they look when they land on the ground or in a river or mountain stream. I'm not really big on the blossoms being arranged in heart shapes for a photo opportunity - but we all look at photography in different ways and it is a very subjective form of art. 

Tung Blossoms that have fallen on a hiking trail. 

Tung Blossoms that have fallen on a hand rail. 

Now that it is May, we still have a week or two left for viewing Tung Blossoms. I recommend if you want to see the blossoms before they're all gone for the year that you should get yourself to Miaoli, Hsinchu or here in Taoyuan to check them out.

UPDATE: Most of the Tung Blossoms have already fallen off the trees in most places around the country. There are still a few places to see them I think, but make sure you refer to the link below before you go to one of the locations to save yourself from disappointment! 

I'm linking to the Tung Blossom Festival website which has a lot of information in English and Chinese on how to get to the specific areas where you will have the best chance to see the blossoms before they're gone! 

2015 Hakka Tung Blossom Festival

Cute! Tung Blossoms arranged in the shape of a heart. 



Source: http://www.goteamjosh.com/

A Walk Through Daxi (大溪老街)

Daxi Old Street (大溪老街) is probably one of the nicer and more well-maintained of all of Taiwan’s old-streets. The street, which is also known as “Peace Street” (和平路) is renowned in Taiwan for it's architectural style and it draws large crowds of people on weekends wanting to experience a bit of Taiwanese history.

The government has recently started to push for more foreign tourism in the area, opening Taiwan’s first “Traveler's Space” which will offer multi-lingual services, self-guided tour maps and samples of some of the specialties that Daxi has to offer.

I visit Daxi often as it is relatively close to where I live and when I go, it is always on the weekends when it is busiest – This time (much like my walk through Beipu Old Street) I wanted to walk around the relatively empty streets on a weekday and explore the back alleys behind the street for a glimpse into the lives of the residents of the village and not have a bunch of people filling my frames. 

Even though I've visited several times, I've never really explored many of the streets and alleys around the main street. I was surprised this time to find several streets and alleys that were more or less the same as the Old Street in architectural-style (however showing a bit of their age due to a lack of maintenance.)  

One of the few statues of CKS that still has its head attached. 

The Daxi River Valley area is already quite popular with domestic tourists and those from China as well because Daxi is the resting place of former presidents Chiang Kai Shek (蔣介石) and Chiang Ching Kuo (蔣經國.) The Chiang family was quite fond of the village back in the day and had residences in the town and outside of the town in Cihu (慈湖) which is where the Chiang’s lie in state.

Tourists from China who visit Taiwan often visit these areas to show their respect to the Chiang’s, who were important figures in modern Chinese history despite the precarious nature of the political situation between the two countries and the Chiang family legacy in both China and Taiwan during the Chinese Civil War.

Sidewalks on Daxi Old Street

Long before Chiang and his Nationalists retreated to Taiwan from China, Daxi was a commercially successful village that found its riches exporting tea and camphor. The Old Street was originally constructed as a shortcut to transport goods to the river and as the economy grew in the village, businesses soon starting popping up along the street.

The wealthy merchants in the village wanted a way to show off a bit of their prosperity so they hired artisans to come and help design and carve beautiful stone designs on their homes and businesses along the main street and the streets around it. What you see today is a neighbourhood designed in the "baroque" style of architecture (which was popular in Europe at the time) fused with both Chinese and Japanese influences. 

Alley's behind Daxi Old Street

The village thrived for decades due to trade between the Dahan River (大漢溪) and the Danshui River (淡水河) but improved modes of transportation took over as the preferred method of moving goods back and forth which dealt somewhat of an economic blow to the village.

Even though the economy started to decline, people in the village continued to do well for themselves through the end of the Japanese occupation and the Nationalist takeover. The village was eventually adopted by the Chiang family as a retreat of sorts and within the last few decades it has became a tourist “old street” for people who want to experience the feeling of walking through a historical street that seems more like a Hollywood set than a real-life town. 

A young boy at the gate of the Shou-De Zen Buddhist Temple

History alone however wouldn't bring the masses to the village on the weekends. Taiwan is a food-crazed country and people are willing to travel all over just to try specific dishes. Luckily, Daxi has quite a few of its own delicacies to add to the historical attraction. If you visit Daxi and are completely unaware of what the popular dishes are, one indication would be the store fronts that have long lines of people waiting to sample some of the foods.

There is a variety of food that you can eat while on the Old Street and there are a lot of vendors who set up each and every day along the road making it seem a little like a night market. You should be sure to try some of the most popular dishes though, namely the Dried Tofu (豆乾), some Tofu Pudding (豆花) and freshly made Peanut Candy (花生糖.) 

The Main Street is also filled with small shops selling traditional toys for children as well as souvenirs and other Taiwan-related things - and even some kimonos if you so desire!  

Making Peanut Candy! (花生糖)

As mentioned before, on this visit I spent the most of my time on the streets adjacent to the Main Street as it is the area where the actual residents do their every day shopping and where you can see the locals in their natural environment. In these areas you can find small restaurants filled with local people as well as traditional grocery stores and farmers selling local produce. To me, these areas are a lot more interesting than touristy areas and I recommend that if you visit Daxi, you spend a bit of your day wandering around the adjacent streets and don't spend all your time on the old street.

A local farmer selling produce on a street near Daxi Old Street

A local farmer selling produce on a street near Daxi Old Street

Walking along the other old roads like this will also take you past old Japanese-era buildings, the former summer residence of Chiang Kai-Shek, some well-maintained Fujian-style mansions and a mountainside park that has an excellent view of the popular Daxi bridge (大溪橋.) and the fading Da-Han river.  Most Taiwanese people visit Daxi make the bridge an important part of their itinerary as it is quite beautiful walking across it at night. Taiwanese people have an affection for bridges that foreigners have a hard time understanding. The Daxi Bridge is a historical one though and I guess I can see some of the appeal. 

A Fujian-Style Mansion at the end of the Old Street

The old street also has three important places of worship, the biggest being Fu-Ren temple (福仁宮) a multi-faith temple, Shou-De Zen Buddhist Temple (修德禪寺) and Po-Chai Taoist Temple (普濟堂.) The temples hold several major events religious events each year (one of which I hope to shoot this year) and are quite important to the village both historically and culturally. 

An old Japanese-era building near the Old Street (武德殿)

Daxi Old Street can be a pretty busy place, yet for all the years I've been going, I haven't really seen many foreigners. Some might not know about the village, and others may feel it is an inconvenient day trip. I hope the new initiative by the government will bring in more foreign tourists to enjoy the sights and learn about the history of the village. If you are relying on public transportation to get to the village, then you will be a bit limited in what you can do, but if you have your own method of transportation, you can easily fill an entire day in the area and I highly recommend some of the other attractions.

Coincidentally as I'm standing on the sidewalk with my iPad in hand in Taipei waiting for a bus and writing this blog, a bus drove by on the other side of the road with a full-side English advertisement for the village in an attempt to bring foreigners. 

It is quite evident there is a push to promote Daxi, so I hope the next time I go I can see some more foreign faces!  


Getting to Daxi Old Street

 

No. 1 National Highway(國道一號) -> Taoyuan Interchange (桃園交流道) -> No. 4 Provincial Highway(台4線) -> Daxi (桃園大溪) -> Heping Road, Zhongshan Road & Zhongyang Road (和平路及中山路、中央路) 

No. 1 National Highway(國道一號) -> Pingzhen Interchange (平鎮交流道) -> No. 61 Provincial Highway (台61線) -> Daxi (桃園大溪) -> Heping Road, Zhongshan Road & Zhongyang Road (和平路及中山路、中央路)

No. 3 National Highway (國道一號) -> Daxi Interchange (大溪交流道) -> Chiding (崎頂) -> Daxi (大溪)-> Heping Road, Zhongshan Road & Zhongyang Road (和平路及中山路、中央路)

By Bus:
Take Taoyuan Bus 桃園客運#5096 (Taoyuan-Daxi route) from the back of Taoyuan Train Station (桃園後火車站) to Daxi (大溪) or take Taoyuan Bus 桃園客運#5096 (Zhongli-Daxi route) from the rear exit of the Zhongli Train Station (中壢車站)


People of the Night 5 (中壢夜市人像)

This is the fifth post in my People of the Night Photo Project that I'll be working on over the next few months. The point is to take street-style portraits at a night market and explain a little bit about what they do. This is going to be my last entry introducing the vendors from the Zhongli Night Market. I'm going to take a break for a few days after this post in order to post a couple of other blogs, then I will be moving on to post about the Rao-He Night Market (饒河夜市) in Taipei.


If you haven't seen any of the other posts in the series the links are below:   

People of the Night 1 / People of the Night 2 / People of the Night 3 / People of the Night 4


1. The Night Market Beautician (夜市美容師)

The Night Market seems like a weird place to get a manicure, but that doesn't stop people from doing it. In this shot we have a Taiwanese woman getting a manicure while the beautician's husband looks on. I can't really attest to the quality or the price of a night market beautician, but I'm guessing it is likely quite a bit cheaper than you would see elsewhere. What I am sure of though is that there is no other place where you can get a manicure and eat some stinky tofu at the same time! Multi-tasking! Yeah! 

2. The Indigenous Chef (原住民廚師)

Taiwan has 14 recognized Indigenous tribes (and 11 more that are yet to be recognized by the government) who are of Austronesian origin and have inhabited this land for thousands of years more than the ethnic-Chinese. Their cuisines differ quite a bit from traditional Taiwanese fare and I'm not shy to say that while I love Taiwanese/Chinese food - Taiwanese Indigenous food is often the best culinary experience you can have here. The Indigenous peoples of Taiwan are masters when it comes to the grill, especially when it comes to wild boar. In this shot we have an Indigenous man cooking wild boar on a stone pan. You can buy a version that is fried up with garlic, onions and leeks and served hot in a box or have that mixture served in a fresh hot-dog like bun. No matter what you order, it will be awesome. 

3. Pinball Boss (彈鋼珠遊戲老闆)

 There are all sorts of games that you can play at the night market. All the games are a form of gambling, but most are innocent in nature and fun for kids to play. In this shot some people are playing pinball while the boss watches. The point of the game is to get your pinballs to land in certain areas and however well you do, you will get a prize to reflect that. The prizes aren't usually anything special, they're mostly just candy for children or a can of coke, etc. The point is that it is a fun activity for kids.

4. Fried Rice Noodles Boss (炒米粉老闆)

The Zhongli night market is most well known for its fried rice-noodles. There are several stalls selling inexpensive bowls of these thin and tasty noodles and as far as I can tell, this stall is the most popular. If you order a bowl of noodles or even a box for take out, they're always steaming hot and a somewhat healthier alternative to all the deep fried snacks you can find at the night market. 

5. Stinky Tofu (簡師傅麻辣臭豆腐)

Stinky Tofu is a mainstay of the night markets in Taiwan. It comes in many different varieties and despite many foreigners apprehension in trying it, I love it. This particular company (簡師傅麻辣臭豆腐) has had such great business that they had to open their own restaurant (which is still at the night market, but not on the street like most vendors.) A year or two ago before they opened up the store, there was just this stall, and the lines were long to say the least. Now the stall isn't as busy as you can only order take out and that helps out a lot with traffic congestion. If you like spicy food, this is the place to go. Although I'd caution against ordering anything above mild spiciness.. 


As I mentioned earlier, I'm going to make a couple of other non-night market posts and then I'll start posting shots from Taipei's popular Rao-He Night Market (饒河夜市) starting next week. I've already finished shooting all the night market and I'm currently working on getting shots from Taipei's Ning-Xia Night Market (寧夏夜市) and Taoyuan's new Hsing-Ren Night Market (興仁花園夜市.)  

The following is a slideshow of the collection of the shots I used in this series from the Zhongli Night Market with some additional shots that I didn't post.

The photos are also available on my flickr account by clicking here

I hope you've enjoyed this series thus far! There's more to come! If you have any questions or comments feel free to get in touch with me in the comment section below!