Taoyuan

The "Wilds" of Zhongli

A few months ago my friend Alexander Synaptic, the wandering urban explorer moved to what some "professional" photographers in Taipei refer to as "the wilds of Zhongli", the city I've called home for the past decade. While living here only for a few months Alexander explored on his own and ending up taking me places and teaching me about things that I had somehow overlooked or hadn't noticed during my decade of living here.

The city has a bad reputation among expat residents of Taipei who like their Taiwanese counterparts have a tendency of speaking about other areas of the country with their special "天龍國-mentality". Zhongli has been referred to in any number of pejorative ways over the years but the most popular is calling it the "armpit" of Taiwan. This reputation stems a bit from the way people in Taipei look down on the other cities of the country and from the fact that Zhongli has always been an industrial satellite city of Taipei known for its lack of urban planning and the dullness of life here.

It was always a stereotype that irritated me, but my days of defending the city seem soon to be over and so will the inane comments of a few people who rarely leave the safety of their MRT!

Fast forward a decade and it's easy to see that some pretty awesome urban development work has been undertaken by the county government and an extremely successful long-term beautification plan has had a pretty great effect on improving the lives of the people living here.

Taoyuan county has become much more prosperous over the years and a lot of effort has been spent on the "Taoyuan Metropolis" project making the newly amalgamated supercity a green one that is attractive to residents of Taipei who want to live close to the city, but avoid the sky-rocketing price of real-estate there. 

As things started to improve around here I slowly forgot about the old stuff, the stuff that made Zhongli what it was for so long and helped to earn its reputation among the Taipei elite. Having Alexander live here reminded me a bit of the days of when I first arrived and was more of an explorer. Things that I had become accustomed to became normal and unattractive suddenly became interesting again and I have to thank him for that! 

A few weeks ago Alexander happened to be taking a train back up to Taipei from the south of the country and decided to stop into Zhongli for some of his favourite beef noodles (Zhongli is the birthplace of the dish), a beer and a chat before heading back on the last train to Taipei. Just after getting off the train and meeting up he looked at me and said: Hey wanna see something cool?

Alexander's kind of "cool" is much different than most and it quickly found us walking on the rooftop of the Caishen Building (財神大樓), one of the biggest eyesores in the city and is what will probably (unfortunately) become your first impression of the city if you travel by train. Residents of the city have been waving their fists in its general direction for years as it is one of the reminders of what the downtown core of the city used to be like. 

I never would have imagined that the ugliest building in the city happened to overlook the Zhongli Train Station (中壢車站) and the rotary in front of it. The train station is basically the center of town and is part of a transportation hub that will soon include the High Speed Rail, Airport Link and Taoyuan MRT as well as having a large bus terminal pretty much next door. 

The photos I'm posting today are all long exposure shots of that area and I have to thank Alexander for showing me this great view in the first place!

I've been pretty sarcastic in my wording throughout this post - but after a decade of living here and calling this city home, I feel like I've earned the right to be sarcastic, especially from the never ending jeers I receive from people who don't really know much about the area.

The local government has done a great job in improving the city and coming from someone who studied development in university, I hope that they continue along this path making this area a much greener and more beautiful place to live! 


Abandoned Kiln (磚窯 - 歷史遺跡)

This post is a result of a combination of some long-time curiosity and my friend Alexander Synaptic rubbing off on me. I'm not very experienced with urban exploration, but hanging out with Alexander and listening to his stories has sparked an interest in the hobby. I've found that the more I learn about urban exploration the more I discover that the willingness to go into places (where you might not always be welcome) is similar to the courage that a successful street photographer needs.

It isn't easy walking up to a complete stranger on the street and taking their photo - Likewise with urban exploration you have to be willing to put yourself in a situation that brings you into unknown places and sometimes places where no one really expects you to be walking around. There is a level of respect however that both a street photographer and an urban explorer share with their subjects and that respect is typically shown with the stories that are told in the aftermath.

With street photography I feel like I've found that courage and even through I try to be stealth-like most of the time, I often still walk up to people, smile and point my camera in their face when something strikes me as interesting. Urban exploration on the other hand isn't as easy and in most cases with the kind of abandoned places people are quite suspicious as to why you want to check things out.

Today's exploration is an abandoned brick kiln (磚窯) found on a small road between Taoyuan's Longtan village (龍潭鄉) and Hsinchu's Guanxi township (關西鎮). I have been driving down this road for years (on my drives to Neiwan) and have noticed this place each and every time I have passed by, but until now never really thought to jump over the little fence in front of it and check it out.

Kilns of this variety were quite common in Taiwan several decades ago and helped to fuel the rapid development of the nation. If you're not sure what a kiln is, they are basically a thermally enclosed room that act like an oven. The insulation in the room helps to create temperatures that are sufficient for hardening or drying of clay objects and making them into bricks, pottery, tiles and other ceramics.

Despite a few wood-fire kilns of this variety still being active in the country (some just for show) most have been abandoned or replaced with more environmentally friendly versions which use natural gas and are able to produce bricks on a much larger scale.

There isn't much information available online about these particular kilns of which there are three. I've spent a lot of time searching the web, searching archives and searching PTT (a popular forum used in Taiwan) to figure out when they were closed, how long they were in operation and who owned them but not much of that information is available online, so I can't really tell you much. What info I could find online however is that the soil in the area is naturally sulphurous and was thus ideal for the brick-making process. This is why you can see three kilns in such a relatively close area. 

The kilns are from separate companies named "Pacific" (太平洋), "Jianfu" (建富) and "Sanhe" (三合) which built them around year 60 on the Republic of China calendar (1971). They were built as Hoffmann Kilns (霍夫曼窯), a style introduced to Taiwan during the Japanese colonial period and are more popularly referred to here as "Bagua Kilns" (八卦窯) due to their resemblance to the Taoist "Eight Trigram" (八卦).  Hoffmann kilns typically have a long tunnel, a main furnace and several different pits to make the bricks. The roof trusses make it seem like an octagon and that is probably where the resemblance comes up. 

Huatan Hoffmann Kiln (花壇八卦窯) in Changhua, Taiwan (彰化) 

These particular kilns were set up in that area when the Taoyuan sewer system was being constructed and were quite popular because the earth in that area was especially suited for brick-making. Information as to when the kilns were decommissioned or how long they were in operation isn't available online so it is hard to say with any degree of certainty how long they have been abandoned. 

Reference: 磚窯(歷史遺跡) 仁安里第六鄰一帶的土質屬黃棕土,非常適合製造磚瓦。民國六十 年代初,有太平洋、建富、三合等多家磚窯。其中三合磚窯原是由內湖 搬至仁安里,這些窯屬於所謂的「八卦窯」,專門生產建築用的紅磚。所 謂「八卦窯」是一種類似隧道一般的窯洞,所不同的是窯內牆壁修飾成 八個斜坡面,看上去是八角型。他的最大特點是可以循環燒製磚胚,所 以產量比傳統的窯大很多。(Link /Pg. 47)

What I can tell you is what is still surviving today - The kilns sit alone in a large empty field near a Taipower generating station (龍潭變電所) off in the distance on one side and the popular Leofoo Village Amusement Park (六福村) on the other. There are three different kilns which were run by three different companies - one is close to the road, another is a short walk through a field while the third is a short drive from those two. There is also an abandoned building in between them that looks like it could have been a former office building. Unfortunately nothing was left inside the building to identify what actually went on while the place was in business.

The kilns are somewhat similar in the fact that they have very tall (and well preserved) smoke stacks that rise out of what (from a distance) looks like a large mound of dirt. When you get close enough you'll notice that those mounds of dirt have been overrun with shrubbery and that in certain areas there are bricks popping out. There are several entrances to each of the kilns and on the inside there are several different furnace areas where they would have made the bricks. The inside of the kiln closest to the road seems like it has become a popular place for locals to dump some of their garbage making it a bit difficult and uninteresting to shoot.

Like a lot of abandoned places there are guard dogs on the grounds and they kind of prevented me from exploring too much. A group of five or six fully grown Taiwanese dogs aren't the type you want to mess with especially when you're on their territory. The funny thing about the dogs though is that when they had no idea I was around I saw them playing in the tall grass with each other and they looked like they were having a great time pouncing around. 

As far as urban exploration goes, I'm not sure how this rates compared to what Alexander does, but there very little information available about these kilns available online in Chinese and none in English, so this is my contribution to their memory. The field they are in is really large by Taiwanese standards and it seems like a perfect location to build some dreary high rise apartments. I'm not sure how much longer they'll be around so if you're in the area check them out!

If you know any further information about the kilns or have any questions or comments, don't be shy. Comment below or contact me through the 'contact' section below.


Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞)

The Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞) is a really large cave here in the mountains of Taoyuan county. While it doesn't actually boast any bats (or a batman) it is impressively large and it has a nice little waterfall next to it! The area around it is extremely quiet and one of the few places (apart from the top of a high mountain) where you can actually get some peace and quiet in Taiwan, something that I think we all need from time to time.  

The cave which is also known as Shuilian Cave (水濂洞) is a natural rock cavern in the mountains of Taoyuan county and is thought to be the largest cave of its kind in northern Taiwan.

The massive cave has a height of 20 meters, a width of 50 meters and is about 20 meters deep. The area inside the cave seems expansive and it is estimated that over a thousand people could fit inside. You may even notice while standing inside the cave that the shape out of the mouth looks a little bit like the shape of Taiwan.

Or maybe that's just me!

The cave sits under a spring and there is often water falling from the top of it, which is where it got its original name:  "water curtain cave" (水濂洞).

If you are sitting inside, the falling drops of water make it seem like the water forms a 'curtain' separating the inside and outside of the cave. If you visit on a sunny day the effect is a lot cooler as the sun shines into the ravine while you are sitting in a relatively dark cave with a fine layer of water between the two.

Batman's cave has a waterfall too!

Next to the cave there is a small waterfall that flows from the spring above - The waterfall isn't large and the amount of water you see depends on what time of year you are visiting. (If you visit during the wet season you'll experience a large waterfall and if you visit during a dry part of the year you're not likely to see very much at all.) The pool below the waterfall can be deep and it forms a small river that flows out of the ravine and down the path that you took to get to the cave. The waterfall is pretty cool and the pool in front of it would likely be a nice place to take a dip to escape the summer heat.

The cave is in a ravine and is close to a damp water source which made it an optimal location for bats to make their home. The bats lived in the cave for so long that their guano (bat poop) had dyed the soil red making the inside of the cave a completely different colour than the soil on the outside. Unfortunately for the bats, in 1931 their home was discovered by the local Atayal (泰雅族) people and they quickly became a delicacy for the Indigenous tribe.

The bats may have made their home in the cave for thousands of years, but it only took a few decades of human interference to drive them away. Today there are very few, if any bats left in the cave and if you see one you can probably count yourself lucky.

You'll find the cave in Sanmin village (三民村) which is known as the gateway to the Northern-Cross Island Highway (北部橫貫公路) and is close to Daxi Old Street (大溪老街), the Cihu Mausoleum (慈湖陵寢), the Daxi Tea Factory (大溪老茶廠), Xiao Wulai Waterfall (小烏來) and only minutes from the old TUBA Church (基國派老教堂). Getting to the cave requires a short ten minute walk from the parking lot and is quite accessible for anyone who wants to visit.

No matter what time of year you visit, the cave is pretty cool and is a popular getaway for locals wanting to escape the summer heat. You can have a picnic with family, go for a swim or even spend some time meditating! The Sanmin Bat Cave is quite a special place here in Taiwan and while you can find other bat caves like this in other parts of the country, it's not likely that you can find one this large, this peaceful and with such a pretty waterfall