Taoyuan

Taoyuan Photo Exhibition (桃園夏到你)

A few months ago some friends put forward the idea of having an evening where we would celebrate “Taoyuan” with some great live music as well as showing off some photos. The idea was that I would put on a photo exhibition of photos specifically from Taoyuan so that people could see how beautiful this area really is while at the same time listening to some great music and enjoying craft beer at the same time.

For me, this was a pretty good opportunity not only to put on a solo exhibition but to show off the beauty of this area and also have a wonderful night with friends and good music.

Apart from making a fortune with my photography, one of my goals (as well as this blog) is to help show off the beauty of Taiwan and promote the country to the outside world.

While I've spent a considerable amount of time travelling all around the country taking photos with my camera, one of my passions is showing off Taoyuan and helping to change the hearts and minds of people who often say negative things about this area.

In my decade of living here I have had to put up with comments from people who haven’t spent much time in Taoyuan but somehow are all of the opinion that Taoyuan is a boring, polluted industrial town with nothing to do, no culture and most importantly no MRT.

Before my arrival I had done a bit of research about the area that I would be moving to and had seen quite a bit of these negative comments with people describing the area pejoratively as the “armpit” of Taiwan or the “wilds” as if Taoyuan were somehow some uncivilized place. After a bit of research I almost regretted my decision to move to the area and started thinking I should choose somewhere else.

Thankfully I stuck with it and came here anyway.

I'm willing to admit that my first impressions of the area were not that great, which in retrospect I think were probably affected by a lot of the reading I had done. I quickly got myself set up though and after buying a scooter I started exploring whenever I had free time and quickly found out that while the industrial parks here are dull, the scenery everywhere else is breathtaking.

If you are basing your opinion of Taoyuan on the areas around the Taoyuan or Zhongli train stations, then I can understand how you might not think this place would be a nice one to live. If you do a bit of exploring however you’ll realize that Taoyuan, with its mountains, valleys and beaches is just as beautiful as any other area in Taiwan.

Not only is there beautiful scenery here but also a vibrant history and a plethora of places for tourists to visit and enjoy.

Taoyuan ultimately may not (yet) have a super convenient MRT like Taipei does, but the area has a lot more going for it than you think and things have improved so drastically over the past few years that the Taoyuan of today is not the so-called “armpit” of the past.

When Taoyuan County (桃園縣) amalgamated into the supercity known as Taoyuan City (桃園市) the local government was able to start procuring more funds from the Central Government and a more equal share of tax dollars which allowed for it to invest more in itself than ever before.

The government has spent a considerable amount of money on restoring and promoting Taoyuan’s tourist spots, promoting local culture and building new parks that allow for local people and tourists to enjoy the history and beauty of this area. The results are noticeable all over the city and if you pay attention like I do you’ll find that there are new tourist spots opening up to the public quite often.

For me, I only see great things for the future of Taoyuan and as this city continues to change for the better, I think its reputation will also change and people will finally see Taoyuan the way I have looked at it for the last decade.

The event which was held on August 19th was titled “桃園夏到你” which was a typical Taiwanese play-on-words meaning that “Taoyuan will surprise you” but with the word “summer” (夏) instead of “surprise” (嚇).

The band that opened the event consisted of some handsome members of the expat community here in Taoyuan with some local Taoyuan residents and they performed for an hour before giving me time to stutter though a speech in Chinese about what I do and the photos I prepared to show how beautiful Taoyuan is.

Afterwards the band played another hour long set and the event ended around midnight.

A few weeks beforehand I uploaded some photos to Facebook in a private album and allowed some close friends to pick their favourites and made some large prints which were framed and hung on the wall.

I also prepared two photo books which showed off some of Taoyuan’s scenic locations and also the people and culture of the area. The photos that were in the books were also put on display on a slideshow on a big screen TV.

The amount of people that showed up for the event was amazing and the small venue was overcrowded with people who came to enjoy the music, beer and photos. The night was really fun and it seems like people had a great time!

If you weren’t able to make it but still want to check out the photos, they will be on display at “Hop In” for the next few months. Feel free to stop over to have a beer and check out the photos. You might even see me there writing a blog!

Hop In: 桃園市中壢區廣安街11號2樓 (2F. #11 Guang-An Street, Zhong-Li)

Before I end this I'd like to thank all the people who showed up to the event, the guys at Hop In for allowing us to use the space and Celine, Darwin, Joseph and the rest of the musicians who peformed that night! 


The Tuba Church at Night

Note: As of September 2019, the Tuba Church is closed and a gate has been constructed to block access to the church for both the local indigenous community and tourists alike.

The period of closure is currently unknown due to a land dispute with the land owner holding the local community hostage for the price of $10,000,00NT.

Until the church reopens to the public, I’ll leave this notice here. If you are planning on visiting the area, make sure to check local news to see if it’s reopened or now.

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A year or so ago I wrote about the historic stone TUBA Church in the mountains of Taoyuan. The church which was constructed by the Atayal People (泰雅族), one of the largest Indigenous groups in the country, is a semi-popular stop off for weekend day trippers visiting Taoyuan and one of the many interesting tourist spots in the area.  

Over the past few months the church has become quite popular with the photographers of Taiwan who visit at night to try to get some shots of the church with the stars in the background. I've seen some really nice shots of the church on Instagram over the past few months but the success of the photos are extremely dependent on the weather and Taiwan's mountains aren't always the most reliable places when it comes to that. 

Admittely, the shots I'm sharing today of the church are all from my second visit to the church. The first time I visited was supposed to be a clear night but just after I arrived clouds rolled in and getting the shots that I wanted wasn't really an option. 

This kind of thing is common in Taiwan though, so undeterred from my first failure I planned to take another trip out there on a night when the weather was looking good enough to try again.  

When I arrived on my second attempt there were quite a few photographers hanging out trying to all get the same shot. Clouds rolled in quickly after I arrived though and almost all of them took off. Since I had just arrived I decided to be patient, watch a video on Youtube and wait to see if the clouds would pass. 

Luckily they did and the photos I'm sharing here today are the result. I hope you like them.  

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If you haven't read my original post about the church, here is a bit of history that I pulled from the article to explain it: 

The church was constructed by the Atayal people (泰雅族) in 1963 as a place for the people of the remote Tuba tribe (基國派) to worship. The tribe built the church with their own hands using stones that were carried one-by-one from the nearby Sanmin Batcave (三民蝙蝠洞).

The small place of worship was used between 1963 and 1992, but ultimately became too small for the growing population of the tribe which took a much more modern approach to the construction of their new church which was constructed nearby. 

After the congregation moved to the newer church, the original fell into a state of disrepair due to a lack of usage and maitenance. The community realized however that the church was not only an important part of the tribes history but also had cultural value that could help the people of Taiwan learn more about the tribe.  

Today the church stands in its original spot and is celebrated as a monument to the preservation and cultivation of Atayal culture and history and is now recognized by the government as a national historical monument.

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How did you get these shots?

Some people have asked how I was able to take these shots and what equipment was neccessary.

All you need is a camera, a wide-angle lens, a tripod, a remote control (would be great) and patience. 

Truthfully it doesn't matter what camera you are using as long as you have the ability to control its functions. You'll need to learn how to take Long-Exposure shots and that is quite a bit easier if you know how to use your camera's Bulb Mode with a tethered remote control to control your timer.  

If you don't have a remote control with your camera, it's fine, just set your camera to Manual or Shutter-Priority Mode and turn the dial on your camera to your desired exposure time. Once you press your shutter button make sure that your camera is stabilized by the tripod and you don't move it. Any movement between the time the shutter opens and closes is going to mess up your shot.   

A friend suggested that I spent quite a bit of time in Photoshop doing post-processing work on these photos to achieve these results. 

I'm going to let you in on a little secret - The shots I'm sharing today were taken while my camera was tethered to my iPhone 7. Each shot was directly fed onto my phone and I used Google's Snapseed Photo Editor to post-process these photos - each photo taking no more than one minute of work.  

You don't need the biggest and best camera with the most expensive lenses to take shots like these. You also don't need to spend a lot of time working on them in Photoshop. Anyone can take these kinds of shots, so don't be afraid to learn about your camera and its functions!  

If you have a chance to visit the church at night I hope the weather cooperates and you get some great photos!  

Lee Teng-Fang Historic Residence (李騰芳古宅)

Over my years of living in Taiwan, I have been the subject of a lot of jokes and comments from friends for living here in Taoyuan. Admittedly, when I first decided to come to Taiwan I read some information about the area where I'd be going and from what I read, the reviews of the county (now city) weren't particularly that great with a lot of expats referring to the area as the "armpit" of Taiwan.

When I arrived however I quickly learned to appreciate Taoyuan for a lot of different reasons. The city may not have a massive and super convenient public transport system like Taipei does, but what it does have is close access to nature, the mountains, the airport and also gives me the ability to travel to a lot of places in northern Taiwan quite easily.

Taoyuan might not have have a lot of popular tourist attractions but there are a lot of under appreciated historic sites that I've been lucky enough to visit and not have to deal with crowds of tourists.

If I'm to be blunt, in the first few years of living here we had KMT heavyweight Eric Chu (朱立倫) who was then followed up by John Wu (吳志揚) serve terms as the county magistrate and it was quite obvious that they basically did nothing of any significance during their terms.

Fortunately the political tide in Taiwan turned a few years back and Cheng Wen-Tsan (鄭文燦) of the DPP was elected mayor of the county by a thin margin. The election of Mayor Cheng has been nothing short of amazing for Taoyuan and it is easy to see that the mayor has not only spent a considerable amount of time modernizing and revitalizing the area but has also spent a considerable amount of effort in restoring Taoyuan's various historical places of interest into attractive tourist destinations for both domestic and international tourists.

For some, this may not be a big thing, and I'm sure that many people haven't even really noticed, but for someone like me who has lived here for a long time, I see the Taoyuan of today as a place where people will want not only want to live, but to visit to experience Taiwan's history and that of the vibrant Hakka culture that is so well-preserved here.

Under Mayor Cheng's leadership Taoyuan is becoming a place that people want to visit rather than a place that people try to avoid. I'd give the guy a prize if I could, he's doing an amazing job and I have to say that whenever someone makes a comment about Taoyuan, I just ask if they've visited lately.

The subject of today's post is yet another example of one of the many accomplishments of Mayor Cheng (and all of the people elected across party lines at the Taoyuan City government) and is one that has been going through a period of renovation for almost as long as I've been running this website.

Coincidentally I had planned for this to be one of the first posts on my blog a few years back when I started all of this, but I felt that I didn't have enough photos to really do it justice and it was shut down for renovation meaning that I'd have to wait until work was completed.

The Lee Teng-Fang Historic Mansion (李騰芳古厝) reopened to the public in late April and I made sure to get over as quickly as possible to check out the work that had been done as well as getting the photos needed to write a blog about it.

With this blog post I'm going to depart from my usual style of delving (way too much) into the history and instead talk about some of the renovations and my general feelings about the difference in visiting the mansion today than when I originally visited it a few years back.

Part of the reason for this is that one of my favourite Taiwan authors, Richard Sanders has already written extensively about the mansion in an article in a much more eloquent way than I ever could - If you want to know more about the history of this beautiful mansion, I suggest checking out some of the photos here and then checking out Richard's article for more context.

Article: Li Teng-fang House - One of the finest surviving examples of a Hakka residence in Taiwan 

History

In my blog about the popular Daxi Old Street (大溪老街) I touched upon the history of the village which was at one time a major player in the early Taiwanese economy. Daxi, like quite a few other villages in Taiwan found its early commercial success thanks to its proximity to the mountains and because it had a once thriving river that gave merchants the ability to transport tea and camphor out of the village in a time when modern forms of transportation were unavailable.

The area we refer to as the "Old Street" today was originally constructed as a shortcut to transport goods to the river and as the economy grew in the village, businesses soon starting popping up along the street.

As people started to become wealthy, they wanted a way to show off a bit of their prosperity so they hired artisans to come and help design and carve beautiful stone designs on their homes and businesses along the main street and the streets around it.

The wealthiest of the villages merchants however built their homes away from the hustle and bustle of the busy village area and the Lee Teng-Fang mansion, which was the biggest of its time remains the most well-preserved to this day.

The Hakka-style mansion, which is now classified as a grade two historic mansion complex was built in 1859 and consists of two main buildings with four side buildings with a large courtyard in front of the building, one in the centre of the building and a brick wall surrounding it.

Built on the banks of the all-important Dahan River (大漢溪), the mansion today blends in with the beautiful fields of rice and farms that surround it making it a quiet and peaceful place to visit compared to the hustle and bustle of the old street. If you visit during the summer, you are likely to see the rice paddies replaced with fields of wild flowers which makes the ride over from the old street even more enjoyable.

The Lee Family was a wealthy one that originally hailed from the Fujian Province area of south-eastern China. Making its fortune in the rice industry, the family patriarch Lee Bingsheng (李炳生) opened the Lee Family Store (李金興商號) in Daxi village (near the old street) and was one of the most well-respected merchants in the area.

Wealth allowed the family to make education a priority and the academic excellence achieved by Lee Teng-Fang, one of the three sons in the family brought a lot of pride to the people of the Daxi village region.

In 1856, Lee Teng-Fang (at the age of 43) passed the first of his important civil examinations achieving the level of a "scholar" (秀才). Soon after, he travelled to China on a few separate occasions for higher level exams achieving the rank of a middle-ranked official (中舉) and then as a high-ranked official which brought with it a commendation from the Emperor.

The Lee Teng-Fang mansion was built as a gift to the prestigious student with construction starting (as mentioned above) in 1859 after Lee passed the first of his important examinations and was completed a few years later in 1864.

After passing the exam, the people of Daxi got together and in Teng-Fang's honour constructed a special road from the village to his family home and renamed the area after him - Daxi's original name was "Daguxian" (大姑陷) and was renamed to "Dakeken" (大嵙崁溪). The road is still in use today and is the one that brings you from the old street to the mansion. The village however has since been renamed.

Since its completion in 1864, the mansion has been expanded upon on several different occasions with a new hall being completed in 1926 and then several renovations and restoration projects since then with the latest being completed at the end of April 2017.

Renovation

The renovations of the complex are where I'd like to spend a little bit of time - For the most part not a lot was done to change the overall look of the mansion. The restoration process took care of some of the wooden carvings on the walls and on the roof as well as restoring some of the artwork on the walls as well as adding some interactive exhibits for people to learn about the history of the area as well as that of the mansion and other traditional houses like this.

The restoration process took a few years to complete and I suspect that the majority of time was spent on having local historians and artisans come in to repair and recolour the murals on the walls as well as on the outside of the halls as well as the traditional decorations on the various sections of the roof which have been fully restored.

The major difference between the most recent renovation and my previous visit is that the rooms to the sides, which were originally bedrooms, kitchens and dining rooms have since been filled up with interactive exhibitions that explain the function of each.

One of the "cutest" additions is that of a holographic display of the family's pet cat sleeping on the floor and chasing a rat that appears out of a whole in the wall. The whole thing seems completely unnecessary and isn't really the kind of thing I want to see while visiting a place like this, but I suppose it does its part to keep the children interested while visiting.

If you have a bit of time while visiting the mansion, there are guided tours available and there are also rooms which have projectors that teach a bit of the history of the building. I feel like if you want to really have a full understanding of the history of the Daxi area, the mansion and the story of how the family became so wealthy, then by all means take a seat and check it out.

In most cases when buildings like this undergo a restoration process of this kind they end up adding a bunch of kitschy and unnecessarily 'cute' things that ruin the historic aesthetic of the building. In the case of this mansion, the cuteness was kept low-key and the majority of the time was spent in the areas where the building needed the most attention to ensure that its history could be enjoyed by future generations.

Getting there 

 

Website: English | 中文

There is a lot to do in Daxi and if you are making plans to visit the historic village, you have quite a few options for places to visit to spend your time. Most people will spend their time on the historic Old Street while others might check out the Daxi Martial Arts Hall, the Daxi Tea Factory, Zhai-Ming Monastery, the Cihu Mausoleum, the TUBA Church or the Sanmin Bat Cave.

No matter what your plans are, if you are visiting the area, a stop over at the Lee Teng Fang Mansion is recommended. The village is equipped with the popular Ubike public bicycle sharing system so getting to the mansion from the main area of the town is quite easy. You could also drive or scooter over to the mansion, but I think the experience of bicycling along the pathway that Lee Teng-Fang himself would have walked each and every day is a great experience.

I'm happy to see that this beautiful mansion has finally been reopened to the public and I'm also quite pleased that I waited to blog about it until now. The day I visited had beautiful blue skies and the photos turned out quite well, especially compared to the last time I visited.

If you are interested in Taiwan's history at all, I think a visit to a beautiful old mansion like this is a great learning experience and a much better one than you'd have in a museum I might add. I may not enjoy some of the new additions but they don't really take away from the overall experience of visiting the mansion. Be sure to check it out if you're in the area!