Travel

Daxi Old Tea Factory (大溪老茶廠)

Nestled in the mountains of Taoyuan county is the old Daxi Tea Factory (大溪老茶廠.) The factory has been a constant fixture in the town over the past century, but it had lived in obscurity and a state of abandonment for the past twenty five years. 

Interest in the factory spiked in the last year or so and (if you are on Instagram and have seen anything from #Taiwan) you're bound to have seen quite a few shots of Taiwanese girls taking selfies or posing in the factory. The factory is becoming a popular day trip for people living in the northern part of the country for its retro atmosphere and the beautiful light inside the factory turned museum-style tea shop and restaurant. 

Walking through the warehouse

Reading

Why the resurgence in interest with a century-old factory you might ask? After years of work, a top Taiwanese architectural firm recently completed renovations and a redesign of the site and was the recent recipient of a very prestigious award honouring achievement in architectural design.

With all the interest the tea factory has attracted, it has become a hot spot for people in the know to visit and is also close enough to other attractions like the Cihu MausoleumDaxi Old Street, the TUBA Church and Xiao Wulai Waterfall all of which you can enjoy on a single day trip to Taoyuan.

Fresh Tea

Fresh Tea

The original tea factory, a two storey warehouse-looking building was constructed in 1925 by the Taiwanese Agriculture and Forestry Company (台灣農林公司) and holds a unique place in the history of Taiwan’s tea industry as one of the early players in Taiwanese trade and development.

The location of the factory played an important role as it processed black tea coming down from the mountains in Fuxing (復興鄉) and was then packaged and taken to Daxi to be sent off for sale or export.

Eventually though, new methods of transportation made the river less important and the economy in the Daxi area started suffer. The factory was abandoned sometime in the early 90's and was left standing for over twenty five years before renovation efforts started in 2010.  

Lots of windows to allow air circulation for the tea to dry

When the renovation of the site was completed, one of the original warehouses was removed and made room for a zen-like stone pond that sits beside a restaurant on one side and a relaxing tea house on the other. The pond gives off a relaxing feeling and sitting beside it in the tea shop or the restaurant is quite interesting with the huge open windows and view of the mountains surrounding the factory.

The architects who redesigned the site won the award for this open air design and from a design perspective it is actually quite interesting with the glass windows facing the mountains and the pond. The first floor is also home to an interesting museum-like area which shows the tools and machinery that used to be used when processing the tea to teach people what went into processing tea with guided tours and a small theatre area that plays a video of the history of the factory.

The second floor of the warehouse however is what seems to be the most interesting to people and is the place where the majority of the shots I've seen on Instagram are from. When you arrive on the second floor you'll notice that there are machines for processing and drying tea in the middle of the large floor.

The floor is very old looking and grey, the lighting isn't very bright and it is an excellent for taking pictures as the majority of the light on the second floor is primarily ambient light coming in from the open windows. On a sunny day, I imagine that the light on the second floor would be even better and is probably going to be a popular spot in the future for some of Taiwan's wedding photographers. 

The day I visited was quite overcast which caused the warehouse to look a bit more dreary from the inside. There are large tables on one side for people to enjoy tea and read, and there are chairs throughout the floor that are really old and repainted with cool looking colours. I spent the majority of my time on the second floor because photographically speaking, it was quite cool looking with the light and the contrasting colours.  

The first floor also has a really cool little shop that sells a lot of tea lovers paraphernalia as well as high quality Taiwanese tea. If you visit and you're a fan of tea, I'd recommend checking out some of the stuff they have for sale, or just try some of it in their cool little tea shop beside the pond.  

My favourite shot of the visit. 

The Daxi Tea Factory is a pretty cool and appeals to people in completely different ways. If you're a fan of tea, then you're in the right place to buy some of Taiwan’s famous tea. If you are into learning about history, you can learn about how people in Taiwan produced and processed various types of tea around a century or so ago. Finally, if you're into design and architecture, this is going to be a really great place for you to admire what has been accomplished in the renovation of this building from a rotting abandoned factory to a beautiful multi-functional place for the people of today to enjoy.

The tea factory hasn't been reopened for very long and while it is popular in certain circles, it isn't an extremely busy tourist attraction yet – so try to visit as soon as you can before it gets too popular! 

Website (Chinese Only) / Directions


Guandu Temple (關渡宮)

I have had the photos for this blog uploaded and ready to go for well over nine months, but I sat on it and kept pushing the it back in order to stay on top of other stuff. I suppose though that I might have just been leaving it for just the right time as over the next few weeks I plan on posting about a few really cool Taiwanese temples that have a lot of historical significance. 

The first temple I'll be introducing is Taipei’s Guandu Temple (關渡宮) which like a lot of Taiwanese temples is dedicated to several gods with a main shrine dedicated to the goddess Matsu (or Mazu 媽祖.)  

The temple is situated in Taipei's Beitou district (北投區) which is more famously known for its geo-thermal hot-springs. The temple is easily accessible by Taipei’s MRT system via Guandu Station (關渡站) on the Tamsui line (淡水線) and a short walk from the station on a road lined with lanterns guiding your way. 

Thousand-Arm Guanyin

Thousand-Arm Guanyin

Thousand-Arm Guanyin

Guandu is popular with Taipei residents as it is along the Danshui River and has not only the popular temple, but also the Riverside bicycle path and the Guandu Nature Park (關渡自然公園) which is quite popular with nature lovers and wildlife photographers. 

The temple itself, originally named Lingshen Temple (靈山廟) has a history dating back to 1661, although the temple didn’t actually begin construction until somewhere around 1712 when a Buddhist monk traveled from China bringing with him a golden statue of the goddess Matzu.

The original temple was quite modest compared to what you see today, but due to the wealth of the immigrants who lived in the area, and because most of their income came from transporting goods by sea, it made sense to pool some of their wealth and build a more spectacular temple along the banks of the Danshui River dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea.

Walking around the temple grounds. 

Walking around the temple grounds. 

Since then, the temple has been renovated and expanded upon several times over its over 350 year history making it currently the one of the largest and oldest Matsu temples in the northern area of the country. 

As mentioned above, the main shrine of the temple is dedicated to the goddess Matsu, which is a folk-religion deity, but the temple was originally founded by a Buddhist monk. The temple has several shrines and there are several floors and buildings that surround the main temple which are dedicated to other folk-religion deities as well as different Buddha’s including Guanyin (觀音), Ksitigarbha (藥師佛) and Shakyamuni (釋迦佛.) 

Guanyin Shrine. 

Buddha Shrine

One of the interesting things about the temple is that it is built into the side of a small mountain. The mountain has a cave which has been converted into a pathway that brings you to another beautiful shrine. The walkway is eighty meters long and has statues against the walls which depict the 28 heavenly emperors. The walk through the cave is really cool and whenever I visit the temple, I find that I spend quite a bit of time walking through it looking at the murals on the wall. 

At the end of the hallway there is another shrine room which I think is probably one of my favourite shrines in all of Taiwan which has a giant shiny bronze statue of the thousand armed Guanyin that has incredible detail. The room set up around the statue is small and the detail on the walls is spectacular. There is a small balcony on a cliff in front of the shrine that overlooks the river and is a nice place to relax for a few minutes.  

Cave

Murals on the wall of the cave

If you climb the stairs behind the temple, there is a park on Mount Ling that has a cool overlook of the the river and a view of the back of the very large temple that looks towards Taipei city with Taipei 101 in the distance. The park has Sakura trees that are in bloom in winter and if you show up at the right time, you'll be able to see the temple as well as the sakura. 

I’m not going to go into great detail about all the shrines at the temple or the superstition and miracles that people believe makes it such an important place. If you visit the temple there is an excellent information brochure (in English, Japanese and Chinese) which introduces the temple, it's history and all the shrines inside. I recommend picking it up when you visit and checking it out. 

I love Taiwanese temples and the art and craftsmanship that goes into building them – but I'm not a fan of perpetuating stories of superstition and miracles. So even though other blogs might tell some spectacular stories about things that have happened in the past, I'll let you get that information from them. 

Guandu Temple is really one of the best examples of temple architecture in Taipei and it has a long history making it one of the most important religious structures in northern Taiwan. If you are visiting for a short time, I know all the guide books recommend visiting Longshan Temple (龍山寺) but I highly recommend you make time to visit this one as it is just a important historically and if you are interested in the craftsmanship and artistic side of things, this one is going to appeal to you more than the massive crowds at other popular temples. 


Boracay (長灘島)

Boracay is a paradise-like island south of the Philippines capital of Manilla and is one of the country’s most popular destinations for both foreign and domestic travellers alike. The island renowned for having one of the worlds best beaches and the community on the island is set up to cater to tourists making it an island resort paradise. 

The island is located about 315 kilometres south of the capital of Manilla in the Western Visayas region of the country and is only about 10 square kilometres in size with a population of about 12,000 people with labour imported daily from neighbouring islands

Boracay's iconic Paraw Sailboats.

Boracay's iconic Paraw sailboats.

The island was originally settled by the Ati people, one of the Philippines indigenous groups and the name "Boracay" comes from their original name for the island. These days however the island is controlled by the Philippine Tourism Authority and is designated as a special municipality within the Philippines with a tourism industry that brings in billions of pesos every year. 

Tourism on the island is only a product of the last thirty to forty years and the island has only started to really develop over the past ten. When you base your economy entirely off of tourism you can expect some positives and negatives - one of those negatives has been the marginalization of the Ati people and constant encroachment on their Ancestral lands. This marginalization has led to issues of poverty and discrimination against the native peoples as well as the destruction of their culture. I would argue that Boracay should do a better job of cultivating and promoting the Indigenous culture on the island which would help to form a cultural identity like what you see on the island of Bali in Indonesia. (For more information on the plight of the Ati people check out this article

Paradise!

Tourism on the island has steadily grown over the past few years. In 2011 for example the island attracted 908,174 visitors which grew to 1.2 million in 2012. The Department of Tourism has steadily increased the amount of visitors it forecasts to visit the island each year and now that it has become popular with tourists from China, those numbers are sure to rise. Due to the increase in the amount of tourists, the island is in a constant state of development and new resorts are popping up all the time drastically reducing the amount of empty land left on the small island.

The people who live on the island work primarily in the many different sectors of the tourism industry or in the many restaurants and bars that are found throughout the island. If there is ever any shortage of able bodies, it is rarely an issue considering that Caticlan, the nearest city (on the island of Panay) is only a two kilometre boat ride away. The main problem for most of these people who serve tourists (with respect and smiles) is that they are usually only paid a minimum wage and this helps to create an extremely uneven distribution of wealth on the island. 

Walking along the main stretch

DMall, the shopping area of the island.

This wasn't my first visit to Boracay (and most certainly won't be my last) and from what I observed on my most recent visit is that business is most certainly booming. The majority of the travellers are from neighbouring Asian countries like South Korea, Taiwan and China. The people working on the island thus learn to speak Korean or Mandarin as well as English to serve their guests. I was most in awe of this when I visited Starbucks (the most beautiful Starbucks location I have ever been to) and the kind lady at the counter spoke Mandarin, Korea, Arabic, Tagalog and English to the people ahead of me. With language ability like that, you have to wonder why this genius of a woman would be working at a Starbucks! 

Tourists on the beach near sunset

I arrived on Boracay at 7am (leaving Taiwan at 12:25pm) and because it was too early to check in to the hotel, I just stashed my luggage in storage at the hotel, changed into some swim shorts and decided to go for a walk with my camera so that I could relax on the rest of my vacation and not carry it around!  

The plan was to walk down the four kilometre beach from end to the other to get some shots and waste a bit of time before going back to the hotel for a shower and a nap. There was a section of the island that I hadn't gotten to on my first visit, so I was eager to see what was around the corner of a mountain-like cliff. 

When I got close enough to the cliff, the white-sand part of the beach more or less ended and there was a stone boardwalk that rounded a corner to a place where some really nice houses were built on the side of a mountain.

The Filipino elite likely had their vacation homes up there and it looked like a pretty cool place to stay - with a great view for the islands famous sunsets. I decided to hang out for a little while watching boats pass by and enjoying the weather. The area had a bit of wind and was a bit cooler than the beach. 

A young Filipino boy taking a break from swimming.

While hanging out, I noticed that there was some coral in the water below and that the water was relatively deep, so I took off my camera bag, sat it on the side of the mountain and decided to just jump in.

After jumping a few times, a Filipino man came over and gestured to a small cliff above the boardwalk. He told me to follow him and we climbed up and he looked at me and said “jump!” 

The cliff was only about 10 or so meters above the water, but cliff jumping with the guy was fun enough to spend an hour or so hanging out with swimming. Eventually he had to go and then I walked back to the hotel to check in, have a shower and take a quick nap. 

Local Boracay children Tourist watching.

A local Boracay boy.

The next few days were spent on the beach swimming, tanning, drinking copious amounts of San Miguel, taking photos of the beautiful sunsets and relaxing. While relaxing on the island, there are quite a few recreational activities that you can take part including sailing, scuba diving, snorkelling, parasailing, jet skiing, riding around in a helicopter, etc. 

The selection of restaurants on the island is vast and no matter where you decide to dine, the food is amazing no matter where you go. You'll find western cuisines varying from authentic Spanish and Portuguese restaurants to Greek and Italian, American and English. There is also Chinese, Taiwanese, Japanese, Korean, Thai and several other Asian restaurants. With all of that selection it might be easy to miss some of the restaurants serving native Pinoy cuisine which I would say is actually really unfortunate, because Filipino food is great - especially their take on BBQ chicken and pork which are amazing! 

Until next time Boracay!

Boracay really is a travellers paradise – You can relax all day, eat great food and party all night. Of all the places I've been throughout my tour of Asia, it is my favourite spot to just go and relax, get some sun and have some great food and drink.  

I've been to the island more than once and its likely that I'll go back again sometime in the future. If I ever get married, I'd probably even consider having my wedding there like some of my co-workers and friends have done in the past!

If you haven't been to Boracay and you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. As always, comment or complain below!