Travel

Zhongli Elementary Teachers Dorms (壢小故事森林)

Having recently celebrated the 120th anniversary of its founding, Zhongli Elementary School finds itself on a very exclusive list of educational institutions in Taiwan with such a long and storied history. 

Plans for the construction of “Zhongli Public School” (中壢公學校) started in 1898 (明治31年), shortly after the Japanese took control of Taiwan. The school opened two years later in 1900 and became one of Taoyuan’s (and Northern Taiwan’s) first public educational institutions. 

To celebrate the 120 year anniversary of the school, festivities were held throughout the year and the school announced plans for some restoration projects that would modernize and beautify the campus. 

To coincide with the anniversary, the Taoyuan City Government started a restoration project on the historic teachers dormitories that were once used by the staff at the school during the Japanese Colonial era.

The plan was to have them ready to reopen to the public in conjunction with the celebrations for the school’s milestone anniversary. 

With such a long and storied history, you’d think that finding information about the school would be pretty easy, but that’s not actually the case.

From what little I’ve found from the school’s own literature is that “Zhongli Public School” opened in 1900 and as the number of students steadily increased over the years, several “branch” schools had to be constructed nearby communities - all of which still exist today.

In total, five branch schools were constructed around town, which have all since changed their names and are now known as Chung-Ping Elementary (中平國小), Hsin-Ming Elementary (新明國小), Hsin-Jie Elementary (新街國小), Longgang Elementary (龍岡國小) and Nan-Shih Elementary (南勢國小). 

If you’ve lived in the area as long as I have then you’re probably aware that these schools (in most cases) were the basis for the formation of a community that used the same name as the school.

Most notably “Hsin-Ming Elementary” is known for its popular neighbour, the Zhongli Night Market (新明夜市), which is actually named “Hsin-Ming Night Market” and the Hsin-Ming Traditional Market, which is home to two of the city’s most famous restaurants, Hsin-Ming Beef Noodles (新明牛肉麵) and Yong-Chuan Beef Noodles (永川牛肉麵). 

In the decades since the colonial era ended, the school has changed its name a few times, but no matter what it is called, it is still the first educational institution opened to the public and is an important part of the local history.  

Subtle name changes

  • 1947 (民國36年) - 中壢國民學校

  • 1968 (民國57年) - 中壢國民小學

  • 2014 (民國103年) - 桃園市中壢區中壢國民小學

The topic today however isn’t really about the school itself, but the Japanese-style teachers dormitories that were constructed nearby. 

As I’ve already mentioned, the growing number of students wanting to take part in the public education system, it became necessary to construct branch schools as well as homes for the staff working at the schools to live. 

Constructing “dormitories” (員工宿舍) for employees was a service that the Japanese Colonial Powers provided, especially for civil servants and those working within important industries.

There would have been dormitories that housed police, government officials, teachers, principals, railway workers and many of the engineers who came to Taiwan to help develop the island. 

Today, all over Taiwan many of these dorms are being restored and reopened to the public as tourist destinations in an attempt to help people learn more about an important part of Taiwan’s history.

So lets take a look at the newly reopened Zhongli Elementary School teachers dormitories, which have been (randomly) renamed the “Zhongli Forest Story House” (壢小故事森林). 

Zhongli Elementary Teachers Dorms (中壢國小日式宿) 

You might think that like most school dorms that the teachers dorms would have been constructed somewhere on campus, but in order to provide the teaching staff with a bit of privacy, they were constructed on a nice plot of tree-covered land nearby. 

Constructed in 1917 (大正6年), the three Japanese-style homes are on a plot of land that is about 871 square meters large and would have provided staff with easy access to the school as well as the nearby train station and whatever amenities would have been available in the downtown area at that time. 

Interestingly, from a design perspective, even though there are three buildings, each of them was constructed somewhat differently as they all served different functions. One of them was a typical Japanese style family home, while the other two were more dorm-like in their set-up.

The two single-floor buildings, which are referred to as “Building A” (A棟) and “Building B” (B棟) are typical Japanese-style homes that were constructed with Taiwanese Cypress (台灣檜木) and have beautiful black Kyoto-style roof tiles (黑瓦). 

Building C” (C棟) on the other hand is a bit different from the other two and even though it maintains aspects of Japanese architectural design, it was constructed with brick, has two floors, a nice patio space on the second level and a roof that was constructed using the same type of red tiles (閩式紅瓦) that you’ll see on many older Taiwanese buildings. 

The buildings were used by the Japanese staff of the elementary school from 1917-1945 and then afterwards became dormitories for the teaching staff hired by the new regime for the next few decades before they were more or less abandoned.

Today the dorms have been completely restored and are part of a newly established culture park known as the Zhongli Forest Story House

Now that they’re no longer dormitories, the government had to find a use for the space, so each of the buildings now serves a specific purpose. 

  1. Building A” - A棟 (沐樂居)

GTJ-2019-1031-29.jpg

“Building A” was originally constructed as a dorm that would house two families under the same roof (雙拼日式宿舍), so the interior has several rooms and two large open spaces. It would have been a space for more senior teachers who brought their family with them to Taiwan.

The building is currently used as a revolving exhibition space that is likely to focus on the history of the local area, its people, language, cultures and cuisine.

2. “Building B” - B棟 (儒林所)

“Building B” is a smaller single family dorm (單棟日式宿舍) that was likely used by the principal of the school and his or her family. The home is complete with a couple of bedrooms, an open living room, kitchen and bathroom.

The building is currently used as a fun exhibition space for children to come and learn about Taiwanese history in a fun and interesting way.

3. “Building C” - C棟 (睦森館)

Building C” is the largest of the three buildings and was the space that was offered to teachers and staff with lower seniority. The building was constructed with bricks and as I mentioned above features a red tile roof, which is uncommon for Japanese-style buildings.  The living conditions would have been what you’d expect from a typical dorm but there would have been ample space for everyone living inside. 

The building is currently used as a multi-purpose space for exhibitions, meetings, public lectures, etc. It is also home to a small cafe where you can purchase some drinks and sit inside. The second floor patio is also open for guests to walk up to get a good look at the beautiful red tiles on the roof of the building as well as the exterior of the other two smaller buildings. 

During the week, the space can be a little quiet, but on the weekends there are always events taking place similar to weekend markets with hip vendors setting up mobile coffee shops with others offering a variety of foods. If you visit on the weekend, you should probably expect that there will be quite a few people and the opportunities for photos probably won’t be so good. 

Getting There

 

Address: #52 Bo-ai Road, Zhongli District, Taoyuan City (桃園市中壢區博愛路52號)

The Zhongli Forest Story House is located within the downtown core of the city and is easily walkable from the train station (中壢車站) or the inter-city bus terminal (中壢客運站).

If you’re in town, you can easily grab a Youbike and make your way to the dorms while also checking out many of the other historic destinations within the area.

Located directly across the street from Zhongli Elementary School (中壢國小) and a short walk from the Zhongli Police Dorms (壢景町), the Zhongping Story House (中平故事館) and several staple local restaurants, there is quite a bit to see and do in the space of a single city block, and a five minute walk from the train station. 

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday: 10:30-7:00 

Admission: Free of Charge

If you’re feeling hungry, take it from me, there are quite a few local restaurants nearby that should satisfy your tastebuds.

  • Tseng’s Steam-Fried Buns (曾記老牌水煎包) - A short walk away from the dorms, there is always a big line for these freshly cooked buns and for good reason - they’re amazing. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區康樂路61號

#61 Kangle Road.

  • Old Alley Hakka Noodles (老巷小館) - This Hakka noodle place serves up some cheap and amazing Hakka noodle dishes with the addition of succulent plates of duck. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中正路243號 

#243 Zhongzheng Road.

  • Mama Liu’s Hakka Vegetable Buns (劉媽媽菜包店) - This take-away only store sells steaming hot sticky Hakka vegetable buns and are one of the things you absolutely have to eat if you’re in town. There are meat and vegetarian options, so make sure to let them know which type you want! 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中正路268號

#268 Zhongzheng Road.

  • Papa’s Secret Lover (阿爸的情人) - If you’re looking for some straight up amazing Hakka food, then look no further than this restaurant which has been open for half a century. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中山路401號 

#401 Zhongshan Road.

  • Yong-Chuan Beef Noodles (永川牛肉麵) - If you’re a lover of beef noodles, then this restaurant should be high on your list. Its open 24 hours for your enjoyment and no matter what time of the day you visit, its always jam packed with people slurping up the spicy noodles. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區民權路61號

#61 Minquan Road.

  • The Peanut House (張豐盛商行) - While most locals visit this historic shop for their peanut fix, tourists have been coming from all over Taiwan for a taste of their peanut-flavoured ice cream which is surprisingly amazing. If you’re in town on a hot day, you’ll definitely want to visit. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中正路349號

#349 Zhongzheng Road.

The restoration and reopening of the Zhongli Elementary School Teachers Dorms adds yet another location to the list of places for people to visit when they come to Taoyuan. These dorms, in conjunction with the nearby police dorms show off a bit of the city’s colonial history in an area that is rightfully very focused on and proud of its Hakka history and culture. 

A visit to the teachers dorms won’t take very long and it seems like there is always something interesting going on, so if you’re planning to visit the area, you should definitely add them to your list of places to visit. 


The Taoyuan Valley (桃源谷步道)

In a recent case, the Shilin District Court in Taipei ordered the Yangmingshan National Park Administration to pay NT$3.96 million (US $134,000) in compensation to a family whose mother had died as a result of injuries caused by being pushed over by a wild water buffalo.

The family’s lawyer argued that the park administration hadn’t provided adequate safety measures for tourists and that the thirty-or-so water buffalo that graze in the area were a danger to society.  

The ironic thing is that the water buffalo have been grazing on the grassy pasture since the Japanese Colonial Era (1895-1945), and are one of the main reasons why Qingtiangang (擎天崗) has become such a popular tourist destination in the first place.

Link: Court awards compensation to family of woman killed by water buffalo (Focus Taiwan) 

While I do have sympathy for the family, it was only a matter of time until one of the thousands of people who invade the personal space of the buffalos on a weekly basis were seriously injured. The mostly docile buffalo have had to put up with people approaching them (and their young) for photos for quite some time now. 

This, in addition to a general lack of understanding about the behaviour of wild animals is something that makes for a dangerous situation.

So, in order to ensure the public’s safety, large fences were erected to separate the ferocious buffalo and the visitors which ultimately limits the freedom that the animals have enjoyed for the past century, but also their grazing space.

Likewise, the fences that have been erected are somewhat of an eyesore on the extremely picturesque mountainous plateau.

This reminds me of the infamous Liebeck v. McDonald’s court case in America, where the restaurant was more or less sued for selling hot coffee. 

While this water buffalo case might not have been as frivolous, as adults, we should probably all be mature enough to understand the danger involved in approaching a wild animal for a photo. Unfortunately people these days get caught doing some tremendously moronic and dangerous things for a little bit of attention on social media.  

What happened at Qingtiangang is similar to what has also happened at Linkou’s beautiful Water Buffalo Valley (水牛坑), which became one of the hottest Instagram photo spots in Northern Taiwan a few years back. 

The local media describes the area as Taiwan’s “Grand Canyon”, but similar to Qingtiangang, that wasn’t particularly the main attraction - The valley also happened to be the grazing space for a much larger group of water buffalo than you’ll find at Yangmingshan

Today though, thanks to the irresponsible masses of Instagram, the land owner has had to erect signs in the valley that read “Restricted Area - No Entry Unless Authorized” and has to have security hanging out to ensure that none of the people who visit are approaching the buffalo.

Likewise, the large group of buffalo that once grazed there can only do so under the watchful eye of their owners - who obviously don’t feel like paying out a massive settlement to some Insta-fool who invades the space of one of the buffalo.

Now that both Qingtiangang and Water Buffalo Valley have been somewhat damaged as tourist destinations, the collective attention of Taiwan’s Instagram community seems to have descended upon a new location to ruin, New Taipei’s Taoyuan Valley (桃源谷).

I’ve had the Taoyuan Valley hike on my list of places to write about for quite some time, but now that it has become an Instagram hotspot, I decided that it would have to jump to the top of my list. 

This isn’t because I wanted to follow the trendy masses, but simply because I didn’t want to miss out on an opportunity to hike the beautiful trail and enjoy the space before it suffers a similar fate and ultimately gets fenced up. 

If you ask me, the main attraction to the valley should be the awesome hike and the amazing views you get when you arrive at the top - But yes, the trail is home to another large group of free-roaming water buffalo who (currently) have a massive patch of land to graze on. 

The Taoyuan Valley Trail (桃源谷步道) 

The famed Taoyuan Valley grassland stretches for more three kilometres along a beautiful sloped ridge between Wankentou Mountain (灣坑頭山) and Neiliao Mountain (內寮山) on the northern edge of the Snow Mountain Range (雪山山脈). 

From the top of the ridged grassy slope, visitors are treated to beautiful 360 degree views of Taiwan’s North-East Coast, including a birds-eye-view of Turtle Island (龜山島), as well as the mountains of New Taipei’s Pingxi District (平溪區) to the rear. 

The beauty of the valley lies in its combination of the sea, land and sky, giving hikers jaw-dropping views overlooking the Pacific Ocean while also enjoying the rare site of such a large patch of grassland, free roaming water buffalo and the mountainous terrain that makes Taiwan such a geographically diverse country. 

At an average elevation of around 500 meters (above sea level), the long stretch of grassland allows makes for an ideal location to sit along the ridge for a picnic or to just enjoy the view.

Originally named “Da’niu pu” (大牛埔) and “Kun’niuzai Mountain” (綑牛仔山), a nod to the historic usage of the grassland by farmers, hikers need to be careful where they’re walking while on the ridge as the water buffalo are prone to randomly unloading their droppings for hikers to step in.

Today the name “Taoyuan Valley” is a nod to “The Peach Blossom Spring” (桃花園記), a fable written by Tao Yuanming (陶淵明) in 421, which describes a chance discovery of a utopia where humans led an ideal existence in harmony with nature.  

Link: The Peach Blossom Spring (Wiki) 

What you should make sure to remember is that even though it is named “Taoyuan” in English, it’s not the “Taoyuan” (桃園) that you’re thinking of just south of Taipei.

Considering what I mentioned above, one would hope that the current name of the grasslands could inspire people to act a little more harmoniously with nature, and not harass its full-time residents. 

Hiking the Taoyuan Valley

Hiking Guide to the Taoyuan Valley www.goteamjosh.com/blog/taoyuangu

One of the saving graces for the Taoyuan Valley is that if you don’t have a car, you have to hike up the long trail to get to the valley. So, unlike the other destinations I mentioned above, (which are pretty easy to get to) this one actually requires a bit of effort. 

That being said, if you have a car, the ‘hike’ only takes about twenty minutes.

Fortunately, the road that takes you almost all the way to the top is quite narrow and offers very little in terms of parking spots. On weekends, it tends to be a dangerous route to take as (lazy) hikers end up stuck in their cars on a dead-end road that isn’t very easy to escape from.

When the only other alternative is to actually hike the trail, most of Taiwan’s Instagram celebrities don’t really even bother trying to make an attempt. So even though the trails can be busy at times, you should be able to take photos of the vast valley without large crowds of people.  

If you took a look at the map provided above, you may be thinking this hike seems like a long one, but it should relieve you to know that it is actually only a small portion of the much larger network of trails on the historic Caoling Trail (草嶺古道).

Links: Caoling Old Trail (草嶺古道) - Foreigners in Taiwan | Caoling Historic Trail - Taiwan Trails and Tales

Given that it is part of a network of trails, we’re blessed with a number of options when it comes to getting us to the valley:  

  • Taoyuan Valley Trail (Stone Guanyin) - 桃源谷步道(石觀音線)

  • Taoyuan Valley Trail (Neiliao) - 桃源谷步道(內寮線)

  • Wujuwushu Trail - 吾居吾墅步道

  • Wanshentou Trail - 灣坑頭山步道

  • Caoling Historic Trail - 草嶺古道

  • Tamlan Historic Trail (Ao-Di to Dali trail) - 淡蘭古道北路(澳底-大里段)

For this blog post however, I’ll only be focusing on the most commonly used trails:

  1. One that takes you up the mountain from one train station and ends at another.

  2. One that allows you to walk straight up the mountain to the ridge.

  3. One that allows you to cheat a bit and drive your car most of the way to the top.

The one I’ll focus on most though is the first one, which is generally speaking considered to be the “complete” Taoyuan Valley experience - giving hikers the best of what this hike has to offer.

The Taoyuan Valley Circuit Hike

Let me start by offering a few important details about the hike: 

  • Hiking Time: 5-7 hours

  • Total Distance: About 15-18 km

  • Elevation: 10m - 530m

  • Difficulty: Depends on the trail you take. It could be quite easy, or a rather difficult one.

  • Trails: Well-developed paths with periodic signs, rest stops and washrooms.

  • Best time to hike: Spring and Fall

This hike basically starts at one train station and ends at another, so if it wasn’t obvious enough already, what this means is that the best way to do this one is to simply leave your car or scooter at home and make use of Taiwan’s amazing public rail system!

From which station you start is more or less up to you, but I’d caution that the incline from the Daxi side going up is quite a bit more difficult.

Generally speaking, most hikers elect to start from Dali Train Station (大里火車站) and later finishing by hopping back on the train at Daxi Train Station (大溪火車站). 

  • Dali Train Station to Trailhead (大里火車站 - 登山口)

When you get off the train at Dali Station, the trailhead is a short walk north. 

From the entrance of the station you’ll find signs pointing you in the direction of the Dali Visitors Centre (大里遊客中心), the Dali Tiangong Temple (大里天公廟) and the Caoling Historic Trail (草嶺古道), which you’ll follow until you reach the temple. 

Getting to the temple should only take a few minutes from the train station and once you’ve arrived, you’ll simply walk up to the front and then follow the signs to the trailhead, which is near the rear of the building. 

Don’t be surprised that the trailhead says “Caoling Historic Trail” and not “Taoyuan Valley Trail” as the Taoyuan Valley is just a part of the overall network of trails. 

GPS: N24 58.220 E121 55.540

The incline of this hike is one that starts out relatively easy with a tree-covered trail, but eventually opens up once you’ve reached the entrance to the Taoyuan Valley trail requiring you to walk along an open ridge with lots of stairs that bring you the long way around.

Once you’ve completed the hike and you’re back down on ground level on the Daxi side, you’ll find signs pointing you in the direction of Daxi Train Station, which is about a kilometer south of the trailhead. 

  • Daxi Train Station to Trailhead (大溪火車站 - 登山口)

If you choose to start your hike from Daxi Train Station, the trailhead is about a fifteen minute walk north of the station taking you through the historic fishing village. 

From the train station, you’ll walk out of the entrance, turn left and start walking along the coastal highway until you reach Guishan Road (龜山路), where you’ll turn left and walk up a narrow road to the trailhead. 

GPS: N24 56.530 E121 53.770

If you’re worried that you won’t be able to find the trailhead, never fear, there are signs along the road that point you in the direction of the trail and once you get to the narrow road where you start walking up the hill, there are signs on both sides of the road pointing you in that direction. You can’t really miss it. 

One thing that you’ll want to keep in mind about the Daxi Trail is that it can be quite slippery. If it is raining, the five kilometer hike could be somewhat of a treacherous one. You’ll find signs reminding you about this, which you should take seriously as the stone steps can be quite dangerous.

Stone Guanyin Trail (石觀音線)

The “Stone Guanyin Trail” is another one of the trailheads that you can reach from Daxi Train Station.

The key feature of this trail is that it is a hike that allows you to go straight up the mountain and back down again (on the same trail) while saving a considerable amount of time and traveling a much shorter distance.

You’ll also be treated to a beautiful Buddhist Temple and an open-faced cave that has a shrine inside.

That being said, it shouldn’t surprise you that that the longer trail mentioned above has a much more gradual incline, while this one is a relentless set of stairs that you’ll hike straight up the mountain until you reach your destination.

To reach this trailhead, you’ll exit the Dali Train Station, turn right and walk about two kilometres until you reach the trailhead. Once you’ve reached the trailhead area, you’ll have to cross under a railroad bridge and then follow the road to the trailhead.

The signage here isn’t as prevalent as the main trail, so you’ll want to be careful not to get lost along the highway.

To help, there’s a bus stop next to the the road where you’ll cross under the train bridge named Fanshuliao Bridge. The bus that services this station, “Toucheng Ocean Line” doesn’t come all that often, so you’d have to be pretty good with your timing to actually make use of the bus. Still, it’s an option.

Neiliao Trail (內寮線)

The Neiliao Trail for the Taoyuan Valley is more or less the cheaters method of getting to the valley as it is merely a twenty minute walk from your car on a tree-covered path to the main attraction.

If you’re not really into hiking, have access to a car and want to get your Instagram photos, this trail is probably the one that you’ll want to use as it requires extremely little effort.

It also has a fully equipped restroom at the base of the trail and once you’ve reached the valley.

This is probably important for all those instagram celebs who don’t like to break a sweat and a need a safe place to change their clothes for their photoshoots!

Like I mentioned above though, if you’re visiting on the weekend, you’ll have to deal with quite a bit of traffic on the narrow mountain road where there is very little in terms of parking, so you might actually spend several hours in the car waiting for a parking spot.

I’ve marked (on the map above) the mountain road in Gongliao that you’ll have to turn on to get to the trailhead, but there’s also adequate signage in the area that should help you out if you’re driving and don’t have a GPS.

What to Expect

Now that you know how to get to and from the train stations to the trailheads, it’s probably a good time to prepare you for what to expect when you hike the Taoyuan Valley Trail.

So what should you expect?

To put it simply, stairs. Lots and lots of stairs. 

If you’ve hiked Taipei’s Elephant Mountain or any of the Four Beasts, you should more or less know what to expect. The Taoyuan Valley trail is a hike through the woods on a well-developed (mostly) cement path.  

Even though the trail is very well-developed and includes periodic rest stops (and even restrooms), the hike tends to be a long one. Still, despite the length of the hike, it is considered to be an easy one and none of this should prevent you from trying to hike it. 

You can also take solace in the fact that once you reach the valley, you’ll have a long walk along a beautiful (and most importantly) flat mountain peak that you’ll follow until you start your descent back to ground level. 

You’ll need to make sure to bring some snacks and more than enough water.

I brought a 2000cc bottle, but that ended up not being enough on a 35 degree day.

You should also have a good pair of hiking shoes and a raincoat in case the weather takes a turn for the worse. 

Apart from that, you won’t need much else for this one except for some money for your train tickets and maybe a little more for a feast of fresh seafood when you finish. 

At this point, I should mention that if the weather forecast isn’t looking good on the day that you’re planning on doing this hike, you’ll probably want to save it for another day. 

You’ll see why if you read this post about the hike from the always amazing, Tom Rook. 

Link: Taoyuan Valley Hiking (Over The City) 

How long this hike takes to complete is completely up to you. 

It obviously depends on your hiking pace, how much time you stop to rest and how much time you use to take photos of the beautiful landscape. 

I arrived at the Daxi Train Station at 10am and finished around 5pm.

I did take use up quite a bit of time taking photos as well as chatting with other hikers at the various rest stops.

It goes without saying that unless you plan on only hiking the Neiliao Trail, you shouldn’t be starting this one in the afternoon. You’ll need an early start, but the actual hiking portion of this trip goes by surprisingly quickly, despite the length of the trail. 

The Taoyuan Valley has always been a popular destination for Taiwan’s avid hikers, but in recent months it has also become popular with the Instagram crowd. This means that the crowd you’ll find at the valley on the weekend are a mixed bunch of senior citizens in rubber boots and wannabe models.

Thankfully most of the models don’t really stick around very long and for the most part don’t crowd up the trails as they prefer to endure the traffic jam on the road to the top. 

Still, as I mentioned above, the Taoyuan Valley is currently one of the few remaining places where Taiwan’s Water Buffalo are continued to graze freely amongst the crowds of tourists. 

All it takes though is one accident and that could all change.

Let’s hope that that doesn’t happen anytime soon.

If you visit, enjoy the buffalo, but please don’t invade their personal space.


Chiang Mai’s Silver Temple

Some authors like to start out with a quote, but instead, I’m going to start this one with a couple of not-so-random facts.

  1. There are over three hundred ‘wats’ (temples) in Chiang Mai.

  2. There are more places of worship per capita in Chiang Mai than anywhere else in Thailand. 

  3. Many, if not most of the temples in the area date between the 13th and 18th Centuries. 

It goes without saying that there is a lot to see and do while visiting Thailand’s ‘northern capital’, but it shouldn’t really surprise anyone that one of the most popular activities for tourists is checking out some of the hundreds of temples in and around the city. 

Sure, you can head to the night markets, eat amazing Northern-Thai cuisine and explore the beautiful streets of the ancient kingdom-turned-city, but lets face it, foreigners and locals alike are always going to be attracted to the giant ‘wats’ that you’ll find throughout the city and the countryside that surrounds it. 

And with over three-hundred to choose from (and limited time), you’re going to have to choose wisely. 

Obviously, almost everyone will find themselves checking out Wat Chedi Luang - It is after all one of the most important and historic places of worship in Thailand, and its conveniently located in the dead-centre of town. 

Then there’s Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, the most popular and highly-revered temple in town, which also involves an exciting excursion into the mountains. 

Fortunately there are quite a few resources online in the form of ‘top ten’ lists that introduce some of the most interesting places of worship in the area and are helpful for making decisions about which ones to visit during your stay.

Link: 10 Must-See Temples in Chiang Mai | Top 10 must-visit temples in Chiang Mai

When it comes to this kind of thing, I’m not really your average tourist.

Sure, I’ll check out some of the most popular wats, but I’m also going to reserve some of my time to check out some of the obscure ones too.

And you’ll have to forgive me if I’m wrong, but I don’t think there are any that are more obscure than Wat Sri Suphan, more commonly referred to as Chiang Mai’s Silver Temple. 

You’re not likely to find any other places of worship in the area that look like they’ve been covered in layers of tinfoil and have your favourite Marvel superheroes etched on the walls.

Before I start though, its likely that some readers will feel somewhat overwhelmed with all the local terms that you’ll come across below. If thats the case, never fear, there’s a helpful glossary of terms that should help explain what you’ll find at Chiang Mai’s places of worship. 

Link: A glossary of Thai Temple terms in 75 temples of Chiang Mai’s Old Town 

Wat Sri Suphan  (วัดศรีสุพรรณ) 

The Haiya (หายยา) subdistrict, located just south of Chiang Mai’s historic quarter is a residential area that is known for its traditional silver workshops, which produce and sell artisan jewelry and ornaments.

When you build a temple in a neighbourhood famed for its silver craftsmanship, it probably only makes sense that you show off what you’re best known for, right?

Well, that wasn’t always the case. 

Wat Sri Suphan was originally established in 1502 during the reign of King Mueangkaeo of the Lanna Kingdom’s Mangrai Dynasty.

In the five centuries since, the wat has been rebuilt on several occasions, leaving very little evidence of the original. 

Before I go into much detail about the temple, I think it’s important to note that while “Wat Sri Suphan” is generally referred to as “The Silver Temple” in English, the “silver” part is actually only a small piece of a large complex that includes a much larger viharn (worship hall), residences and some other buildings. 

The silver ubosot (ordination hall) part of the complex, which has become Wat Sri Suphan’s claim to fame in recent years, is a recent addition and was actually only completed in 2004.

What I’m getting at here is that while locals refer to this place of worship by its formal name, tourists are almost always going to call it, “The Silver Temple.” 

It probably doesn’t really matter what tourists call it in English, but I think in some cases (admittedly I was originally under this impression too) people come looking for the Silver Ubosot and leave completely unaware of the actual historic and (arguably) more important parts of the temple.       

Wat Sri Suphan Viharn 

The grand viharn may not be as snazzy or attractive as the Silver Ubosot next door, but that doesn’t change the fact that it is the most significant building at Wat Sri Suphan and dates back more than two centuries, making it the oldest building on site.

The sad thing about this is that it is often overlooked by tourists who know very little about it (few articles online talk about it) or even bother to check it out while visiting, which is why I’ve elected to talk a little about it before I go into detail about the Silver Temple. 

The large Lanna-style viharn features an impressive overlapping four-tiered roof with “Naga” serpents along the gables and “Garuda” chofas at the apex of each of the four tiers.

The building doesn’t have a hint of silver on the exterior and is instead a beautiful mixture of gold and red with an umbrella finial at the top. 

The entrance is guarded by two of the most impressive naga serpents (that I saw while) in Chiang Mai with some green-skinned Yaksa guardians standing behind them.

Similar to the exterior, the interior of the building is finished almost entirely in red with only the upper parts of the walls, window shutters and columns decorated with golden patterns.

As is the case with a lot of Thai temples, you’ll find images of the Buddha’s life on the walls of the viharn, but in this case those traditional images have been replaced by silver panels that have been beautifully designed by local artisans.

The main altar in the viharn is a beautiful golden shrine that has a large Buddha, with three smaller statues surrounding him, all of which were crafted in the Northern Thai Chiang Saen style.

The interior of the viharn is quite simple, so it shouldn’t take too much time to check it out - but you should most definitely check it out if you are visiting the area.  

Interestingly, while inside the viharn, one of the monks noticed that we had Taiwan-related pins on our bags and asked us if we were visiting from Taiwan. Coincidentally he had lived in the country for quite a while before heading to Thailand to become a monk.

We sat down and had a long chat with him in Mandarin while he braided a couple of bracelets for us, which was quite nice.

The “Silver Temple” 

The “Silver Temple” is a modern interpretation of a traditional Thai Ubosot and is the most recent addition to the larger Wat Sri Suphan complex.

Even though it is a modern interpretation and was constructed using precious metals, its important to note that the building keeps with local tradition and makes use of the beautiful Lanna-style architecture that Chiang Mai is well-known for.

Construction on the ubosot started in 2004 under the direction of the abbot Phra Kru Phithatsuthikhun and was completed over a decade later in 2016. Just in time to be dedicated on the 720th anniversary of the founding of the city. 

While not particularly a large building, the time it took to construct it shouldn’t really surprise you. It took a large team of silver craftsman to mould the silver into the beautiful work of art that you see today.

It also required a significant amount of donations. 

Once completed, over 35,152,314 baht, equal to about $1,000,000 USD was spent constructing the building.  

That being said, silver was only used for the most important elements of the temple whereas the vast majority of the building was constructed using aluminum, zinc alloy and nickel, which are cheaper and much more flexible.

When it comes to the intricate designs on the exterior and interior of the hall, its important to note that the majority of the work was done in a style known as repoussé and chasing - What this means is that large sheets of malleable metal were pushed from behind to form a design and then finished with the “chasing” technique from the front.

Link: Repoussé and chasing (Wiki)

If you spend some time walking around the Haiya District of Chiang Mai, you’ll likely hear the constant tapping of hammers on silver with artisans crafting art to be sold in local markets.

Likewise, you’ll also find a small workshop on the temple grounds where there is a resident master silversmith observing the work of the apprentices, who are helping to keep the ancient local tradition alive.

I might be beating a dead horse here but as I’ve already mentioned, the various buildings that make up Wat Sri Suphan have had to be rebuilt on several occasions over the past few centuries.

The Silver Temple that we see today just so happens to have been constructed on top of a previous non-silver ubosot.

All that remains of the original is the base and the sacred ‘sema stone’ boundary markers that signify the separation of the ‘sacred’ and ‘profane’ perimeter of the ubosot. 

While this might not seem all that significant, it is tradition in Thailand that amulets and holy relics are buried under the base of an ordination hall before its construction.

The ‘sema stones’ that remain today from the original building were buried there around five centuries ago and this is one of the reasons used to explain why women aren’t permitted to enter the Silver Temple. 

I’ll talk more about that later. 

Link: Bai Sema (Wiki) 

The only other truly historic part of the Silver Temple is the beautiful ‘Phra Jao Jed Tue’ Buddha statue that occupies the main shrine and is probably one of the only aspects of the interior that isn’t silver.

The statue is thought be at least five-centuries old and there are claims that it was cast in the year 1500, which actually predates the temple. 

It certainly doesn’t look that old. It’s absolutely beautiful.

The Head-Scratching Design

A lot can be said about the mastery and genius that went into constructing this truly unique temple, but some of the decisions when it comes to the murals on the interior and exterior are quite a head scratcher.

Taking into consideration that over a million US dollars was spent to construct the temple - its kind of amazing how much free reign artisans were given to come up with the decorations for the building. 

As I’ve already mentioned, when you visit the temple, it’s important to spend some time checking out all of the small details, because if you do, you’re certainly going to discover that this is where it becomes truly unique - It will also likely make you wonder what the actual thought process was behind some of the artistic decisions.

Starting with the more traditional aspects of the design, the front of the hall is guarded by two “deva” figures on either side of the entrance. They are protected overhead by multi-headed serpents which are representations of Mucalinda, the king of the naga serpents, which protected the Buddha while meditating under the Bodhi tree.

Link: Mucilinda (Wiki) 

The Lanna-style roof.

Following Lanna tradition, the roof consists of three overlapping tiers, each of which features nagas running along the gables. At the apex of each of the tiers, you’ll find “chofas” (ช่อฟ้า), which are representations of the Hindu bird-god Garuda. Finally at the top you’ll find a finial with seven gilt umbrellas, which symbolize the universe. 

As is the case with many of Thailand’s temples, you’ll find images on the exterior inspired by the Jātaka tales, a collection of more than five-hundred stories detailing the many lives of the Buddha prior to attaining enlightenment, in addition to other religious figures common in Buddhism and Hinduism as well as the Thai Zodiac.

These images are displayed on the larger open parts of the exterior walls and occupy most of the space.

Link: Jataka Tales (Wiki) | Jataka Tales (Buddha Net)

You’ll find the pièce de résistance on the rear wall of the building, which is the most intricate and beautifully designed murals on the entire building and tells the story of an important event in Buddhist lore.

Directly in front of building you’ll find two large images of the Buddha on either side of the entrance, one cast in silver while the other is gold. To the left of the building you’ll also find a beautiful silver statue of the Hindu god Ganesha with a silver parasol above its head.

Even though Ganesha is one of the most important gods in Hinduism, the deity was introduced to South East Asia centuries ago and is widely revered in Thailand as a patron of the arts and sciences. 

Interestingly, the parasol above Ganesha’s head is decorated with the twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac, offering more evidence that the design of this temple is a cultural melting pot.

The Avengers

Where things start to get a little odd is in the smaller details where a certain level of international solidarity is put on display with images of many of the worlds major cities and their most famous landmarks.

There is also quite a bit of love shared for neighbouring ASEAN Nations such as Singapore, Vietnam, Myanmar and others.

As it is claimed that this is the first place of worship crafted out of silver, it seems like the designers took some liberties in comparing their silver masterpiece to some of the other architectural feats of human civilization, so you’ll find shoutouts to the other ‘Wonders of the World’ with depictions of the Great Pyramids of Giza, the Statue of Zeus at Olympia, the Colossus of Rhodes, etc.

There’s even a mural dedicated to the superheroes of the Marvel universe striking a pose.

My only question is: Where’s the Silver Surfer?

While you might think that a Buddhist temple featuring Spider-Man and Captain America on its exterior is strange, the interior is where you’ll want to pay the most attention.

At the entrance to the temple you’ll find an image of the much-loved former King Bhumibol in the form of a 1,000 Thai Baht banknote as well as a wide-range of Buddhist and Hindu images and mythical creatures. 

Keeping with tradition, the walls of the interior feature images of the Buddha’s life as well as other important religious figures with links to the temple. 

The floor though is where you’ll want to pay the most attention.

The floor is modelled somewhat like a map of the earth with all of the continents connected by a network of the ancient zodiac.

Traveling around the planet you’ll find a group of aliens in UFOs who seem to be quite content with everything they’re seeing on their trip around our home planet. 

Why are there aliens in UFOs checking out the earth on the floor of this temple? 

The intricate designs on the floor of the temple

Who knows - There isn’t really much of an explanation about that. 

The only ‘explanation’ I’ve seen is that the interior of the building is thought to resemble a Buddhist temple from space or a space ship.  

The strange designs shouldn’t really surprise you that much as there are quite a few recently constructed places of worship in Thailand that feature oddly placed, yet modern images that we’re all familiar with.

So, if you’re visiting a newer temple in Thailand, don’t be surprised if you find images of Astroboy, Doraemon, Hello Kitty, Godzilla, superheroes, Disney characters, etc. 

The “White Temple” in nearby Chiang Rai for example has a mural of the attack on the New York Twin Towers on September 11th, which tends to irritate American tourists.

Link: Tourist’s shock at Thai Temple which has mural of planes hitting the Twin Towers (Daily Mail)

Do the aliens in UFOs have any relation to Buddhist cosmology or local Thai beliefs? Not really. But it is thought that their journey is meant to be a metaphor for your GPS to life. 

That’s certainly open to interpretation though. 

Female Visitors

If Wat Sri Suphan’s claim to fame is its Silver Temple, its safe to say that it has also become quite infamous (especially with foreign tourists) for how it deals with female visitors.

To put it simply, the interior of the Silver Temple is off-limits to women. 

Why is it off-limits to women? That’s not really explained in much detail on-site. 

There’s a big sign in front of the temple that reads: “Women are not allowed entering ordination hall’s area” and another in caps that reads: “WOMEN ARE NOT ALLOWED TO ENTER SILVER TEMPLE

From the literature you’ll find online there are a number of explanations for this: 

  1. The hall contains holy relics which would be disturbed by the presence of women. 

  2. According to traditional Lanna culture, women are not permitted in buildings like this. 

  3. The Silver Temple is an Ordination Hall for monks and thus women are not be permitted as it could cause a monk to unintentionally violate their monastic vows. 

Have a penis? Come on in!

Link: Restricted Area for Women in Thailand (Wikigender)

If you’ve done any research about this temple, you’ll likely have seen a bunch of bloggers complaining about this and of course they make some good points - Banning an entire gender these days (or at any time) makes little to no sense. 

That being said, I’m not from Thailand and as a visitor to the country, it’s not my place to be imposing my values. As tourists, its important that we practice ethical-travel and ensure that we are doing our best to make sure that our tourism dollars are helping to empower women and local communities.  

What we probably shouldn’t be doing though is losing our minds.

It’s important to remember that women are not banned from the entire temple, nor are they banned from the much larger viharn. They’re only prohibited from the ordination hall, which is a sacred space for monks and is where their ordination ceremonies take place.

In Thailand, monastic vows clearly state that monks are forbidden from touching or coming close to women’s bodies and this is strictly enforced upon those who have taken the vows. 

If you take it into consideration that Thailand is one of the few Buddhist countries in the world where monks maintain (somewhat of) a traditional lifestyle, its important to make an attempt to understand why things are like this, even though we may not agree. 

There are quite a few places of worship in Thailand where this unfortunate practice takes place, but in this specific case, the ordination hall is the claim to fame for this temple and it goes without saying that every tourist who visits would love to be able to go in and check out the interior. 

Does it suck? Yes, it does. 

While Thailand remains a country steeped in tradition, it is also quite progressive in many ways and women are afforded equal rights and high status in society. Local women’s rights groups likewise are also extremely vigilant in their effort to improve their status and have been successful in creating positive change and increasing their role in political activism and social movements. 

Like every other country in the world, there are of course still a number of issues that need to be rectified to ensure full gender equality and these religious restrictions are something that have been discussed for quite some time.

It continues to be a work in progress though.  

The good news is that Wat Sri Suphan isn’t the only “Silver Temple” in town and the other one, Wat Muen San, has absolutely no problems with women, and is only a ten minute walk away!

Wat Muen San Address: 13 Wua Lai Rd, Haiya Sub-district, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50100, Thailand

Getting There

 

Address: Wua Lai Rd, Tambon Hai Ya, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50100

Chiang Mai’s Silver Temple is located south of the historic quarter of the city and just so happens to be on the same road that where the popular Saturday Market is located. 

Getting to the temple is rather straight forward but depending on where you’re staying, it might be a long walk, so you might want to have access to a bicycle or a scooter to get there. 

Google Maps estimates that the temple is a 17 minute walk from Wat Chedi Luang and an eight minute walk from the southernmost exit of the historic district. 

To get to the temple you’ll want to cross the southern traffic exit of the historic city to Rat Chiang Sean Road and then make a turn on Wua Lai Road

This is the same road where the immensely popular Saturday Night Market is located, so you shouldn’t have much trouble finding it. 

From there you’ll simply continue heading south until you come across an alley on the right side of the road that has a gate (and tourist signs) that lead you to the front of the temple. 

Personally, I had a rented bicycle that I used to get to the temple as I was staying in the North-Eastern area of the historic district. From the southern exit of the city it only took about three or four minutes to get there. 

If you are riding a bicycle or a motorcycle, you won’t have to worry as there is more than enough parking in the area that you shouldn’t have any difficulty finding a spot to park. 

Understandably, it gets quite hot in Chiang Mai, so if you don’t feel like walking or riding a bicycle, you can easily grab a taxi, Tuk Tuk or Songthaew. 

Link: 13 Ways of Getting Around Chiang Mai (Chiang Mai Traveller)  

While in Thailand, you should also download the “Grab” app for your phone. It is basically South East Asia’s version of Uber but it allows you to easily grab a taxi, tuk tuk or motorcycle during your travels without having to worry about confusion or being taken for a ride. 

Likewise, Thailand also uses Uber, so you have quite a few options available for getting around. 

Admission: 50 Baht ($1.50 USD) 

Hours: 6.00am - 5.30pm daily (Closes at 9:30pm on Saturday) 

I should also mention that like many other places of worship in Chiang Mai, Wat Sri Suphan offers monk-chat and meditation sessions every other day. If you’re interested in taking part, the chats are held on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday evenings from 5:30 - 7:30pm and the meditation sessions are held from 7:00 - 9:00. 

Visiting a bunch of seven or eight-hundred year old temples is a fun learning experience and it goes without saying that Thailand’s wats are extremely picturesque, but after seeing a few of them, it would be understandable if you’ve started to feel a little worn out. 

If thats the case, I highly recommend a visit to the Silver Temple. 

I realize that if you’re tired of temple-hopping that visiting another might not exactly be the solution to your problem.

In this case though, you’re going to see something unlike any of the other places of worship in town (or anywhere) and while part of the temple complex is quite old, the Silver Temple is about as modern of an interpretation as you can get. 

The temple of course has similar architectural design aspects as the other temples around town, but the liberties that they’ve taken with the artwork on the walls as well as the fact that the temple is entirely made out of silver and aluminum makes this one quite unique. 

It’s also likely to lead you to think that designers probably had a few too many drinks while constructing the temple. 

I promise, if you take the time to visit this temple and check out some of the smaller details on both the interior and the exterior, you’ll probably find yourself scratching your head wondering what is actually going on.

There isn’t a whole lot here that makes sense and that’s probably what makes a visit to this temple so much fun.