Yixing Suspension Bridge (義興吊橋)

As an avid Taiwan travel writer, one of the things I try to keep up on are the popular travel-related trends around the country at any given time. For example, in recent years we’ve seen a resurgence in the popularity, especially among the younger Insta-generation for hiking, attending flower festivals, enjoying beaches, etc. 

Thanks to the power of social media when certain locations go viral, you can be sure that it will explode with day-trippers who are willing to travel from one end of the country to the other just to take a photo of themselves in a certain location or to eat at a specific restaurant. 

It’s actually quite amazing to see it in action. 

Take one of my favourite hikes as an example - Wuliaojian (五寮尖), one of northern Taiwan’s most difficult hikes, has always been loved by hikers for some great weekend exercise. I’ve been hiking the trail for years and have become familiar with quite a few of the older hikers who hike it every weekend. The trail was always relatively quiet and could easily be completed without many people getting your way. 

Some photos on social media from some popular Instagrammers ruined that for all of us.

Today there are long lines of people on the trails with the vast majority of people completely unprepared for what awaits them. But at least they look really good while doing it, right?

It may seem like I’m complaining, but one of the great things about these travel trends is that people constantly have new places to visit and are learning more and more that they’re actually able to appreciate the beauty of their own country. On the other hand, most of the locations that go viral are ever really able to handle the sudden influx of thousands of people looking to get their photos. 

Considering mountain trails have been one of the most popular trends in domestic travel, the government has sought to capitalize on that by improving the infrastructure in these areas as well as adding new attractions and destinations to visit.

One area where this has been most obvious has been with the not-so-insignificant number of suspension bridges being constructed in the mountains over the past few years. 

Honestly, it’s one of those trends that I often find myself scratching my head at, but hey, these bridges are pretty cool and they’re great for attracting people and (more importantly) keeping things viral, so why not? 

Take the recently completed “Shan-Chuan Glass Suspension Bridge” (山川琉璃吊橋) in southern Taiwan’s Pingtung County (屏東縣), which is one of the longest and highest pedestrian bridges of its kind in Taiwan. Or how about the Fengbin Skywalk (豐濱天空步道) at Hualien’s Qingshui Cliffs or the Skywalk (天空步道) at Taoyuan’s Xiaowulai Waterfall - all of which have glass floors and were constructed at great cost - but are extremely popular with tourists. 

Link: “Top Ten Most Beautiful Suspension Bridges” 十大絕美吊橋 (健行筆記)

The not-so-open Xikou Suspension Bridge…

Even though I’m not personally too crazy about all these bridges being constructed in the mountains, with all the COVID-19 stuff going on and not much to do, I decided to take a ride into the mountains of Taoyuan earlier this year to check out the newly constructed and highly-acclaimed Xikou Suspension Bridge (新溪口吊橋). 

I figured that if I visited on an early weekday morning that I could avoid most of the insta-crowd and be able to get some nice photos to do a quick write-up about the 303 meter-long bridge that connects Jiaobanshan (角板山) on one side of the Dahan River (大漢溪) to the Xikou Tribe (溪口部落) on the other. 

Unfortunately when I arrived at the bridge there was a notice posted nearby that stated that it was closed from February 3rd, 2020 to June 30th, 2020. 

Unimpressed, I approached the bridge and took a few photos anyway and then decided to make my way back down towards Daxi (大溪) where I’d have to come up with some other plans for the day. 

Fortunately as I made my way back to the Northern Cross-island highway (北橫公路), I remembered that there was another, historic suspension bridge in the area and decided to stop by to get some photos of it. 

So, instead of introducing the Xikou Suspension Bridge, I’ll be introducing what I think is actually a prettier (albeit less popular) bridge, the Yixing Suspension Bridge (義興吊橋) which connects Luofu Village (羅浮村) to the network of hiking trails at Xiaowulai across the river. 

Yixing Suspension Bridge 

Two of the most popular locally made films in recent years were the Seediq Bale (賽德克巴萊) films that told the story of the Wushe Incident (霧社事件) and the valiant struggle of one of Taiwan’s indigenous groups against the Japanese Colonialists. 

The second of the two-part film series was titled “The Rainbow Bridge” (彩虹橋) which alludes to the Seediq (賽德克) peoples legend that when they pass away they cross a “rainbow bridge” into the afterworld.

Since those movies came out, it seems like almost every bridge in the mountains, especially those in areas where indigenous tribes are located have been randomly nicknamed the “Rainbow Bridge” or the “Seediq Bale Bridge” and this one is no different. 

In the government’s own tourist info about Yixing Bridge, they continue this trend by talking about the film and the Rainbow Bridge in their introduction. 

Link: 義興吊橋 (Taoyuan Travel)

Is that necessary? I don’t know. It does give people a point of reference though. 

As I mentioned above, there have been quite a few suspension bridges constructed in the mountains around Taiwan in recent years (possibly thanks to the films), but this bridge isn’t one of them. 

Luofu Village’s Yixing Bridge was constructed in 1966 (民國55年) for the purpose of transporting water to the small community living on the mountain across the Dahan River. Originally only able to accommodate about ten people at once, the bridge was renovated and strengthened in 2013 (民國103年) and is now able to accommodate at least a hundred people at once. 

The bridge is about two hundred meters long and about seventy meters above the (sometimes) raging Dahan River (大漢溪), the source of water that ends up in the Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫) which provides much of the water for Northern Taiwan. The water below is emerald green and if you take some time to look down you should be able to see some local birds along the riverbank as well as fish swimming about. 

Taking into consideration that this is a suspension bridge, when you walk on it, it will rock back and forth. If you’re afraid of heights, you’ll find to hold on to the rails on the sides to make sure that you feel comfortable. 

From the highway, the bridge is a short walk down a set of stairs that should take you less than five minutes. Once you cross the bridge, you have the option of continuing along some of the hiking trails on the other side or heading back the way you came to move on to your next destination.

If you visit in April and May, you’ll also be treated to a display of Tung Blossoms (油桐花) on both sides of the river, which is an added bonus. 

Getting There

 

Address: 桃園市復興區羅浮(羅馬公路桃118線起點)

The Yixing Suspension Bridge is located within Luofu Village (羅浮村) in Taoyuan’s Fuxing Township (復興鄉). Situated along the picturesque Northern Cross-Island highway (北橫公路), otherwise known as the #7 highway, the suspension bridge is close to the Xiaowulai Scenic Area and a short distance from the beautiful Luofu Bridge (羅浮橋). 

If you have your own means of transportation, getting to the bridge isn’t all that difficult as it is located along the highway with parking spots nearby. All you’ll have to do is input the address provided above into your GPS and you’ll easily find your way. 

If you’re relying on public transportation however, the situation becomes a little more difficult as the area is remote and bus service isn’t that frequent. Still, its not impossible, so if you want to take a bus to the area, you have the following options: 

From Taoyuan Bus Station: 

From Zhongli Bus Station: 

From Daxi Bus Station: 

A word of warning though, even though there are several bus routes that go up and down the mountain between Taoyuan, Zhongli and Daxi and Upper Baling, they aren’t all that frequent, so you’ll want to play close attention to the time of your bus and make sure that you don’t get stranded if you are taking the public transportation option. 

If you’re looking for a suspension bridge to check out, but you’re a bit of a misanthrope like me, you’ll probably love this one. There’s no admission fee and even on weekends its not likely that you’ll come across very many people checking it out, especially since it is less than a ten minute drive from the much larger and (supposedly) more beautiful Xikou Suspension Bridge. 

If your plan is to check out Xiaowulai, you could easily make a day trip out of the area by checking out the various waterfalls and hiking the trails that will eventually bring you to this bridge. If you’re not really into hiking though and just want to check out the suspension bridge, don’t worry - there is so much to do in this area of Taoyuan that you’ll easily be able to fill your day. 

Further up the highway of course is the beautiful Lala Mountain Nature Reserve (拉拉山), Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Area (東眼山), the historic Jiaobanshan villa (角板山), Tiemu Waterfall (鐵木瀑布), Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞), TUBA Church (基國派老教堂), Daxi Tea Factory (大溪老茶廠), Cihu Mausoleum and lots more. 

Link: Taoyuan Blogs (桃園)

If anyone has ever told you that there isn’t anything to do in Taoyuan, I’m sorry to say that they’re full of shit - Taoyuan is awesome!  


My Son Sanctuary (美山聖地)

Nearing the end of our time in the UNESCO World Heritage port town of Hoi An, we arranged to take a ‘day trip’ out of the historic town to another UNESCO-recognized spot located about 50 miles away.

There are actually few places in the world where you can go from one massive World Heritage site to another in such a short time, but I guess thats the magic of this particular area of Vietnam.

When I say ‘day trip’ though, I’m probably overstating things.

It wasn’t exactly a day trip - It was more of a go to bed early, wake up really early, get on a bus, tour some ruins, get back on the bus and then enjoy a lovely brunch before continuing our Hoi An adventure. 

Knowing that we had to wake up early the next day, we stopped by the famous ‘Banh Mi Phuong’ restaurant to pick up some of their world-renowned sandwiches, then stopped by a convenience store to get some beer and then went back to our hotel to relax before heading to bed at a respectable hour.

The next day we woke up at around four o’clock, got dressed, gathered our things and then dragged our tired selves downstairs where our shuttle bus was already waiting to take us to the beautiful “Mỹ Sơn Sanctuary”, the home of a long-lost kingdom dating back to the 4th Century. 

That’s almost 1600 years, if you’re counting. 

Once home to over seventy Hindu temples, the religious sanctuary of the former Champa Kingdom, which controlled most of southern and central Vietnam for more than sixteen centuries, is now but a fraction of what it once was. 

Still, the sanctuary is one of the foremost archaeological hotspots in South East Asia and the ongoing work on the site is helping to provide the people of today with an amazing lens into an important part of human history.

And while they work, tourists get to walk around making a bunch of noise.  

If you’re spending any amount of time in central Vietnam, a trip to the My Son Sanctuary should be one of those destinations that is at the top of your list. Understandably, it takes some time to get there and back, but walking through the ruins of an ancient kingdom is well worth the effort. 

I’m going to approach this article a bit differently than what I’ve done with almost all of my other Vietnam travel posts thus far. With the others, I feel like there is so little information available online that it was important to do a deep-dive into their history.  

With this one, there is already an ample amount of information available online from strong sources.

I’m more than willing to admit that while I enjoyed my visit to this World Heritage Site, its a history that is out of my depth of expertise, so I’m not going to pretend that I can offer you anything better than what you can already find online - which I’ll gladly link you to below.

I will spend some time on some of the important historical facts about the site and some of the notable things to see, but the focus on this one is more on the photos and the pertinent travel information to help you get there in one piece.   

History of My Son  

The Mỹ Sơn Sanctuary is a collection of abandoned and ruined Hindu temples in central Vietnam, near the historic port town of Hoi An. The temples, some of which date back to the 4th Century, are often compared to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Bagan in Myanmar and Ayutthaya in Thailand, which goes to show just how important they are with regard to the history of South East Asia. 

You might be thinking: Why were there Hindu temples in Vietnam? 

That’s a valid question, especially since India and Vietnam are separated by about 3000 kilometres of somewhat hostile terrain - The answer probably shouldn’t surprise you though. 

Buddhism, which is probably the most prevalent faith in South East Asia finds its philosophical origin in the rejection of (certain) Hindu beliefs. In the early days though, a lot of Hindu traditions carried over and as Buddhism spread throughout the sub-continent, societies also adopted Sanskrit-style text, rituals, architectural styles and systems of social organization. 

For thousands of years Indian culture, religion and traditions spread throughout South East Asia through immigration, trade and religious missions.

It would be an understatement to say that the influence India had in the region was huge.

This is why you’ll find so many historic temples and shrines from as far as Indonesia to Vietnam.

Link: The Spread of Hinduism in Southeast Asia and the Pacific (Britannica)

My Son was the religious headquarters of the Cham Kingdom, which in its heyday spanned from modern-day Cambodia to Southern Vietnam, between the 4th century and 14th centuries. 

Unfortunately the history of the Champa Kingdom hasn’t been very well recoded, so researchers often find themselves at odds with each other over competing theories of whether “Champa” was a unified kingdom, or a collection of principalities that shared a common language, culture and religion.

What we do know is that it was an agricultural society that would later became a maritime powerhouse.

Known best as the inventors of the irrigated rice terraces, from around the 7th to 10th centuries the Champa controlled much of the trade in spices and silk between China, India and Indonesia. 

Whether you agree on whether Champa was a united country or a set of states, most seem to agree that “Indrapura” (Modern day: Đông Dương) on Vietnam’s eastern coast (near Da Nang) eventually became the political capital and that My Son, which was little more than ten kilometres away was the ‘Mecca’ of the civilization.

My Son, which is situated in a valley surrounded by mountains consists of about seventy or more temples and shrines dedicated to the worship of Shiva (Bhadreshvara) and was a place of religious worship and ceremony as well as a burial place for Cham royalty and national heroes. 

While the Champa temples at My Son were Hindu in nature, inscriptions and sculptures discovered on the site shows that Buddhism eventually took a foothold within the kingdom. For several centuries though, Vietnam was home to one of the most vibrant Hindu cultures in the world.

Interestingly, once the kingdom was toppled, Hinduism more or less disappeared in Vietnam.  

Even though My Son was an important religious site for almost a thousand years, kingdom fell to the Đại Việt in the late 15th Century, it was completely abandoned (and mostly forgotten about) as most of the Cham people fled over the border to Cambodia. 

Links: Champa | History of Champa | Lê dynasty | Cham-Vietnamese War (Wiki)  

In an amazing stroke of luck, the site was rediscovered a few centuries later in 1898 by M.C. Paris, a Frenchmen who was in the process of constructing telegraph lines in the area.  

If you can, imagine for a moment how it must have felt to discover this ancient site - Then imagine being an archaeologist and having the opportunity to start the important work of trying to figure out exactly what they had discovered.

The rediscovery of My Son after so long might very well have been an event comparable to the discovery of the tomb of an Egyptian Pharaoh.

Today it is considered to be one of the longest inhabited archaeological sites in Indochina and pieces of its history can be found in museums from Vietnam to Paris. It is also one of the most important heritage site in Vietnam, one of the foremost Hindu sites in Southeast Asia as well as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  

For more in-depth information about the history of the My Son Sanctuary, check out some of the following resources where you’ll find people with considerably more expertise on the subject than myself. 

Hindu Temples and a Fallen Kingdom in Vietnam: The My Son Sanctuary (Ancient Origins) 

My Son Sanctuary (Huang Thanh Thang Long)

My Son Sanctuary, Vietnam (Sacred Sites)

Treasures of the Champa Kingdom (Youtube) 

Colours of Ethnic Cultures: My Son Sanctuary (Youtube)

Preservation and Restoration of My Son

Once rediscovered, the ruined and abandoned My Son Sanctuary became a major focus of study for the French Colonialists who were eager to learn more about the ancient history of the site.

(And probably because like all colonialists, they wanted to pillage all of the treasure)

With a few years of study under their belt, researchers slowly started publishing their findings in French journals where they reported that the sanctuary was home to the remnants of over 71 buildings.

Those buildings were then divided into 14 different groups to differentiate them based on their architectural styles, purpose and the materials used for their construction. 

Restoration work on the site started in 1937 and was still a work in process when it had the unfortunate luck of becoming a base of operations for the People’s Army of Vietnam and the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War.

This invariably made the sanctuary a target for American bombing campaigns and during a week-long bombardment of the area, several of the structures on the site were completely destroyed leaving a landscape that is still marked with the scars of that terrible period of Vietnam’s modern history. 

When the war was over and Vietnam was unified, restoration work on the sanctuary picked up again and would be designated a National Site a few years later in 1979, which gave it protection as a Cultural Heritage site.

Once things started up again though, the restoration of the area was hampered due to the fact that local authorities had to spend a considerable amount of time de-mining the unexploded landmines that were placed in the area during the war. Since then, several countries have signed on as benefactors and in 1999, My Son was recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site - all of which ensured that a steady flow of money and resources would be made available to continue the preservation of the site.

Link: My Son Sanctuary (UNESCO World Heritage) 

After years of research, it is widely thought that the buildings that remain on the site were all used for religious purposes and are classified by the following four types:

  1. Kalan” - A brick tower used as a shrine that housed a deity. 

  2. Mandapa” - A “sanctuary”

  3. Kosaghra” - A “fire-house” with a saddle-shaped roof used to cook offerings for the deity. 

  4. Gopura” - A gate-tower that leads into a walled-temple complex. 

Within each of these four types of buildings, historians have further classified six different architectural variations based on the phases of the development of the Champa Kingdom.

This generally gives us an idea of how old the buildings are and what materials they were constructed with. 

For the purpose of identification, the buildings that remain at My Son have been assigned letters (A, A', B, C, D, E, F, G, H, K) and are differentiated within each of those groups by numbers.

So, instead of giving each building a name, most of them are just referred to as “A1”, “B7”, “C5”, etc. 

A mixture of old and new

Today when you tour the sanctuary, you’ll be able to enjoy groups “A” through “G” but as I’ve already mentioned, there is still quite a bit of work taking place on the site, so the other groups have yet to open to the public. 

What you’ll find in groups A through G though date back to the 4th through 10th centuries. 

If you want to learn more about the types of buildings, system of identification, architectural styles and building techniques about all of these structures, I can’t recommend enough that you check out the Wikipedia article dedicated to My Son, which is surprisingly one of the most in-depth articles you’ll find on the internet about the sanctuary.

Link: Mỹ Sơn (Wiki) 

Touring My Son Sanctuary

 

The great thing about a visit to the My Son Sanctuary is that there are so many different options afforded to travelers. There are not only numerous options for getting to and from the sanctuary, but also the method by which you tour the site. So, no matter what time of the day you visit or how you choose to get there, you should have no problem touring the sanctuary. 

So, whether you choose to rent a scooter and drive out to the sanctuary or book a seat on one of the many tour buses that leave from Hoi An everyday, you’ll have a number of options to choose from. What you’re going to have to decide is what best fits your preferred style of travel and budget and then go with it.

Before I get into the different options for touring the ruins, I think its important to mention a few things about the tour that you’ll want to keep in mind:

  1. The tour is located deep within a valley (between a couple of mountains) and is basically like a sauna on hot days. This is one of the reasons why ‘sunrise tours’ have become so popular. If you are visiting during the afternoon, remember to bring something to cover your head, some sunscreen and more than enough water.

  2. There is quite a bit of walking involved on this tour, so make sure that you wear something comfortable. I know backpackers in Asia love their flip-flops, but you’ll probably want to leave them in your hotel for this one.

  3. The sanctuary is considered a religious site, so it’s important to dress modestly. You won’t really encounter people at the gates with measuring tape, but they request that people practice “civilized tourism,” so try not to wear something that you’d wear to the beach.

  4. Remember that the sanctuary is an active archaeological site that also allows tourists to wander around while professionals from all over the world are making new discoveries. Try not to wander off the tourist paths and interrupt their important work.

  5. You’re free to take photos, but don’t climb on things and act irresponsibly. Some of these ruins are more than a thousand years old. They have withstood war and the test of time, but don’t need a bunch of tourists climbing around on them. 

Now that we’ve got that settled - What are your options for touring the ruins?

Driving Yourself

If you’re on a tight budget, you may want to choose to simply rent a scooter in Hoi An and make the trip inland to the sanctuary on your own. The price of rental ranges from 80,000 VND to 160,000 VND per day (Between $4 and $8 dollars) depending on where you rent. Once you’ve arrived at the sanctuary there is a $150,000/pax VND admission fee and a $5000 VND parking fee.

If you haven’t rented or driven a motorcycle in Vietnam before though, there are quite a few things you’ll want to take into consideration before making your decision.

I recommend reading the article below, which is an excellent resource if you prefer this option. 

Link: An Introduction to Motorbike Rental in Vietnam (Hidden Hoi An) 

Private Car

If money isn’t an option and you’re traveling with several other people, you might want to consider springing for a Private Tour. What this means is that you’ll essentially be renting the services of a professional driver and driving to and from the sanctuary in style in an air-conditioned car.

It goes without saying this is the more comfortable option, but also the most costly as a professional driver will pick you up at your hotel, drive you to the sanctuary and then wait for you in the parking lot while you explore the ruins. 

There are many tour operators located in Hoi An that will offer competitive rates for Private Tours to My Son, which you can book in person. There are also several private car companies that you can find online where you can book your tour in advance.

Personally, if I were to choose this option, I’d much rather book the tour in person a day or two beforehand in order to get the best price. Some of the private car services that you’ll find online can be a bit overpriced. 

The issue with both of these options is that once you’ve arrived at My Son and purchased your admission ticket, you still don’t have the services of a professional tour guide to help explain some of the things you’ll be seeing.

So, if you choose to drive yourself or take a private car to the sanctuary, you have the option of going in blind or hiring the services of one of the tour guides on site, which should cost about $100,000 VND per person. 

The estimated costs for private cars varies between the kind of service you are going for. 

If you just want the driver, it’s cheaper, but if you want the driver to also be your tour guide, then you’ll pay a bit more. Still, it’s cheaper to hire a driver who is also a tour guide than just hiring a driver and then hiring a separate guide when you arrive at the sanctuary. 

Estimated Cost (Without tour): $780,000 VND  (2 people) + Tip

Estimated Cost (With tour): $850,000 VND (2 people) + Tip

Public Tour 

Probably the most convenient option is to book a public tour, which most often is a package that includes your transportation to and from the sanctuary as well as a tour guide who will introduce the important aspects of each of the ruins that you’ll see on the tour. 

One of the main drawbacks about this type of tour is that they generally last for only about four hours (including travel time) so your time for viewing the ruins is a bit more limited.

In most cases the tours depart from Hoi An twice a day, in the morning and the afternoon, but a lot of people prefer to leave even earlier on one of the Sunrise Tours where you’ll be walking around the ruins as the sun is rising for the best light. 

Estimated Cost: $160,000 VND + $150,000 VND (Admission Ticket) + Tip for tour guide

Public Boat Tour

Another option is to arrange a boat tour which includes your drive out to the sanctuary in a car (or a bus), your tour of the ruins and then a boat ride back to Hoi An on the Thu Bon River. This tour takes a bit more time, but you have the added bonus of being able to enjoy the local scenery while floating down the historic river that many of the worlds early traders and explorers once did. 

Estimated Cost: $200,000 VND (tour) + $150,000 (Admission Ticket) + Tip

There are several operators online that will help you book the kind of tour you prefer. 

I’m not the kind of travel writer that accepts money to promote tour companies, so I’m not going to go on and on about how great they all are in order to get some affiliate cash. 

I recommend taking a look at some of the links below to check their tour times and their prices to compare and decide what best fits your itinerary. 

All I’ll say is that I took a Public Sunrise Tour and was fully able to enjoy my experience with enough time to explore the ruins, get the photos I wanted as well as listen to the professional introduction from our tour guide.

We were also back in Hoi An in time to enjoy a great breakfast at one of Hoi An’s most popular breakfast restaurants. 

The Sinh Tourist | VM Travel Hoi An | Tommy Dao Tours |

Rose Travel Service | Go Asia Tours (Boat) | Grasshopper Adventures (Bike Tour) 


Shilin Residence Tulip Show (士林官邸鬱金香展)

It’s 2020. How many festivals have you attended this year? 

If you’re like most people, I'm assuming not very many. 

Over the past six months, most countries around the world have had to shut down their economies, close their borders and impose lengthy self-quarantine measures to protect their citizens from the COVID-19 pandemic.

It has been a really strange year. 

Here in Taiwan though, we’ve been extremely lucky. It’s business as usual. 

Sure, we had to endure a couple of scary months where we were all worried that our lives would be going down the same road as the rest of the world and every mention of a new infection sent us all reaching for the nearest hand-sanitizer. 

Fortunately, our nightmares (thus far) haven’t come true. 

The response of the Taiwanese government has been nothing short of superhuman. 

We’ve all been able to go to work, school and enjoy leisure activities as if there wasn’t a pandemic taking place. The entire world is looking to Taiwan and collectively scratching their heads wondering how this isolated democratic nation neighboring China was able to be so successful in containing the virus. 

Of course, the people of Taiwan also deserve a lot of credit as when it came time to take precautions with face masks, temperature checks, social-distancing, self-quarantine, etc. The entire country was on board with the government like a well-oiled machine. 

So, as the world fell into disarray, what were people in Taiwan doing? 

Well, quite a few of us were attending an internationally organized tulip festival. 

Because thats apparently how they roll over here.

Unlike so many other events around the world that have had to be cancelled, the 2020 Tulip Festival at Taipei’s Shilin Residence which took place from February 13th - 28th attracted more than 100,000 visitors.

And yeah, it was open just in time for Valentines Day, which had a one day total of around 60,000 visitors.

Imagine for a moment, during the height of the pandemic, when countries all over the world were falling victim to COVID-19, that every day tens of thousands of people were cramming themselves into a park in Taipei to check out a bunch of flowers.

Not one to miss out, I joined the thousands of other people to check them out as well. 

What do I know about tulips? Not a whole hell of a lot. 

What I do know though is that when Taiwan does anything with flowers, they don’t joke around.

The festival was held at the Shilin Residence (士林官邸), once the home of President Chiang Kai-Shek (蔣介石) and his wife Soong Mei-ling (宋美齡), which has since been converted into a massive natural space that is open for free to the public.

This year’s tulip festival, which was titled “So Great to See You” (見你真好) was touted as the best yet with over 100,000 tulips imported from the Netherlands as well as Tonami City (礪波市) in Japan’s Toyama Prefecture (富山縣), which are both renowned for their cultivation of tulips.  

With over twenty species of tulips on display, visitors were treated to several large displays, known in Taiwan as “oceans of flowers” (花海) that were separated by colour - Those sections included red, yellow, pink, purple, white, orange, black and multi-coloured tulips.  

The displays were further separated into three different styles, namely “Western Style” (西式庭園), “Asian Style” (中式庭園) and another section referred to as the “Spring Fields” (踏青區). The latter was cleverly named based on a popular Chinese-language idiom that loosely translates as “to enjoy a beautiful spring walk” (踏青賞春), an annual tradition enjoyed by many families in Taiwan during the Lunar New Year. 

More specifically, the various species on display are as follows: 

From the Netherlands 

Spryng (春紅), Fancy Frills (花蕾絲), White Prince (白馬王子), Largo (雷果), Negrita (小黑人), Salmon Dynasty (粉黨尼), Strong Gold (巨人), Bullit (布利), Orange Dynasty (桔黨尼), Cafe Noir (黑咖啡), Dow Jones (道瓊), Leo Visser (偉舍), Dutch Design (藝術家), Fabio (非比), Memphis (夢飛), Perfect Torch (火炬) 

From Tonami City

Toyama Red (富山紅), Hakuun (白雲), Van Eijk (ファンアイク), Murasakizuisho (紫水晶), Shiun (紫雲), Huis Ten Bosch (ハウステンボス), Kikomachi (黃小町), Yuyakekomachi (夕やけ小町), Light Pink Prince (淡粉紅王子), Pretty Woman (プリティウーマン), Orange Van Eijk (オレンジ ファン アイク), Momotaro (桃太郎) 

My one take away from all this translation is that no matter if its English, Dutch, Chinese or Japanese, a lot of flowers have weird names. 

Alas, I’m posting this article a few months after the tulip show ended, so if you’re interested in checking it out, you’re going to have to wait until 2021 (if we’re lucky enough to still be around by then) when the festival takes place once again. 

That being said, Taipei’s Shilin Residence has beautiful floral displays on display year-round, so if you’re looking to enjoy a bit of nature and don’t want to hike a mountain, I highly recommend stopping by this beautiful public space.

The Shilin Residence is a short walk from Taipei MRT’s Shilin Station (捷運士林站) - I’ll have a blog post about the park in the near future, but until then, all you have to do is exit the MRT station and make your way across Zhongshan North Road (中山北路) where you’ll find the entrance to the park a short distance away.

You’ll know when you’ve arrived when you see the Falun Gong protestors at the entrance. 

It seems like they really enjoy the park. They never leave.