Okinawa

Naminoue Shinto Shrine (波上宮)

How much do you know about Okinawa? If you’re like most people, you probably learned in history books that it was the location of one of the most devastating battles of the Second World War. That unfortunately might be the extent of your knowledge about this small, yet extremely beautiful archipelago of islands known as the Ryukyus.

What happened before the war? What happened after the war? 

These are questions that anyone planning a visit should be asking. 

Okinawa’s history is an extremely complex one and if you’re not well-versed, don’t worry, if you visit, you’re going to get a crash course. 

The Okinawa of today has developed into a modern, yet beautiful tropical island with excellent infrastructure and public transportation that provides easy access to all the other outlying islands and amazing beaches.

Its hard to fathom while walking down the clean, well-organized streets that half a century ago, the entirety of the island was reduced to a festering pile of rubble and human misery. 

In the aftermath of the war, Okinawa redeveloped at an amazing pace, but while homes and businesses can be rebuilt, something that the people of Okinawa continue to struggle with today is that they’ve lost so much of their culture, language and identity through all of the chaos.. 

This is something that the people of Okinawa have worked tirelessly at rectifying over the past few decades and now the fruits of their labor are taking shape as there has been a cultural revival of sorts when it comes to the local language, culture and customs, which the local people have become so very proud of.

What this revival also shows quite clearly is that there is a stark contrast between the Ryukyuan people and their Japanese compatriots and that while they might have a shared history, they’re not one in the same.

Link: Battle of Okinawa’s legacy lives on 70 years later as locals chase against Japanese rule, US arms (The Conversation) 

In the aftermath of the war, reconstruction efforts focused primarily on building modern infrastructure and homes for all of the people who were displaced. Suffice to say that many of the buildings of cultural or religious significance that were lost weren’t really high in priority.

This meant that the various Ryukyuan castles like Shuri Castle, Nakagusuku Castle and Zakimi Castle as well as various tombs and places or worship weren’t rebuilt.

The Eight Ryukyuan Shrines (琉球八社) for example, which were (for the most part) places of worship created for the Ryukyuan folk religion (and later converted into Shinto Shrines) were eventually rebuilt, but it would take until the 1990s (or later) Or for most of them to reappear in some shape or form. 

Links: Ryukyu Eight Shrines 琉球八社 (Samurai Archives)  | 琉球八社 (Wiki)

When reconstruction efforts on these shrines finally began, priority was given to the largest and most significant of them, namely, Futenma Shrine (普天滿宮) just outside of the capital. Next came Naminoue Shrine (波上宮), Okinawa’s “ichinomiya” (一宮), the highest-ranking shrine in the prefecture.

Naminoue Shrine, known simply to the locals as ‘Nanminsan’ has a long history dating back to at least the 1300s and today is the most widely-visited place of worship in all of Okinawa.

The shrine is not only one of the most important religious sites in the capital city, but is also a place of worship that is uniquely ‘Okinawan.’ Even though it maintains many of Japan’s traditional design elements, it is unmistakably something that you’re only going to see in Okinawa which makes it stand out from the 80,000 other shrines across the country.  

Naminoue Shrine (波上宮)

Literally, the “Above the Waves Shrine”, Naminoue Shrine, pronounced [Na-mi-new-oh-eh], sits high on its perch above the Naha Harbour. 

The internet is full of claims that the history of the shrine dates back almost a thousand years, but that is actually a bit misleading. There isn’t actually any recorded information or evidence that gives an exact date as to when a shrine was first constructed in this location. 

What we do know about the origins of the shrine are from local legends. The story goes a little like this: A shrine was constructed by a fishermen who one day came across a mysterious stone and, (as one does), began to pray to it, which caused the stone to start glowing. Soon after the fisherman started taking in record hauls which eventually caught the attention of the local gods who stole the rock. From that time on though, an oracle took up residence in the area and people started visiting for spiritual guidance. 

The first documented information about a shrine in the area comes from the “Ryukyu-Koku-Yurai-Ki” (琉球國由來記) or “the Record of Origin of the Kingdom of Ryukyu” which tells of a Buddhist Temple, the “Naminoue-san Gokoku-ji” (波上山護國寺), which was constructed in 1367 and would later burn to the ground in 1633.    

The shrine would then return to its folk-religious roots and as its reputation for spiritual greatness spread throughout the land, it became habit for the sailors coming in and out of Naha harbour to look up and say a prayer for protection on their journey. Lending credence to the claims of Naminsan’s spiritual power, the Ryukyuan Kings also made a yearly ritual of visiting the area to formally pray on behalf of the nation for peace and prosperity.

Note: The local folk religion, known as “Nirai Kanai” (ニライカナイ信仰) or simply as “Ryukyuan Shinto” (琉球神道) is similar in a lot of ways to Japanese Shintoism. The religion honours the relationship between the living and the dead as well as the gods and spirits of the natural world, but is also predominately a medium of ancestral worship. 

Nanminsan was dedicated to the local religion for hundreds of years, but that came to an end when the Japanese annexed the Ryukyuan Islands and formally put an end to the Ryukyuan Kingdom in 1879. From the outset, the Japanese treated the Ryukyuan people as second-class citizens and attempted to erase their culture and language. The local folk religion became one of the colonial powers first targets and Nanminsan being one of the most sacred spaces in the land was replaced by the “Naminoue Shinto Shrine” in 1890. 

The newly established Naminoue Shinto Shrine was classified at the time as the “Okinawa Sochinju” (沖繩總鎮守社), which mean that it was dedicated to the “protection and tranquility” of the entire prefecture. The problem for the Japanese however was that the local people resisted, so they capitulated and enshrined several of the Ryukyuan Kings as gods at the shrine in an attempt to appease the locals.

This in turn also helped the Japanese integrate the royal family into the Japanese Imperial structure. 

In 1923, the shrine was completely rebuilt and all of the traditional Okinawan design elements were replaced by traditional Japanese design. That version of the shrine however only lasted for a few decades though as it was completely destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945. 

In the years following the war, the shrine was slowly rebuilt with initial construction focusing on the Shamusho (社務所) and Honden (本殿), which were completed in 1953. It would take another four decades to raise enough money to complete the rest of the shrine (which is something I think in retrospect that we can be thankful for) as the Haiden (拜殿) and several other parts of the complex were completed and opened to the public in 1993. 

The reason why I suggest that we’re fortunate is because the completed structure that we see today is a beautiful fusion of Japanese and Okinawan traditional design that might not have been possible if it were completed sooner. The resurgence of the Ryukyuan cultural identity has fueled a need for local places of worship to better represent the local population, so the end result is a unique shrine that pays home age to the beautiful Ryukyuan islands. 

Link: Naminoue Shrine (The Samurai Archives) | Origin of Naminoue Shrine (波上宮) 

Kumano Worship (熊野三山)

Before we get into some of the different design elements of the shrine, I’d like to take a few minutes to explain Kumano Worship, which is something most people might find a bit a confusing about Okinawa’s Shinto Shrines. It is rare that you’ll find an article that touches on the subject, so I’ll try to explain it as best as I can, but it’s important to note that a lack of recorded history makes this stuff a little difficult to explain. 

One of the common features of all of Okinawa’s Shinto Shrines is that they are dedicated to Kumano Worship - which is a Shinto tradition that hails from the mountainous Kumano (熊野) region that spans the prefectures of Wakayama (和歌山縣) and Mie (三重), about 100 kilometres south of Osaka (大阪) on Japan’s main island. 

Kumano Worship might not attract as many followers as some of Japan’s other Shinto sects, but it is thought to predate all of Japan’s modern religions. Centered around the three UNESCO World Heritage Shinto Shrines: Hongu Taisha (本宮大社), Hayatama Taisha (速玉大社) and Nachi Taisha (那智大社) the area is considered to be a place of physical healing and is often mentioned in the mythology surrounding Japan’s founding.  

Today there are more than three-thousand shrines throughout Japan dedicated to Kumano worship, each of which goes through a special propagation process known as “bunrei” (分霊) where the spiritual power of the Kumano deities are shared with a new shrine. Over the past thousand years as Kumano worship spread throughout Japan, followers including Emperors, Samurai and commoners alike have all been attracted to the area to take part in the Kumano Kodo (熊野古道), one of the worlds most important religious pilgrimages.

There are numerous legends that deal with the origin of Kumano Worship, which all deal with the power of nature. Not only is the Kumano area credited with being the mythological birthplace of Japan, it is also known as the “land of the dead” where various kami retire in death - including the gravesite of Izanami (伊邪那美), the deity who created the earth together with her husband Izanagi (伊邪那歧).

Link: Finding the roots of Japan (BBC Travel) 

So how did Kumano Worship become such a big thing in Okinawa? 

That is actually quite a difficult question to answer due to the lack of recorded history. What we do know is that the Ryukyu Kingdom was a major player in the East Asian trade networks and that they learned a lot from foreigners, especially those from China, Japan and Korea. 

The influence these other nations had over the Ryukyus not only involved international trade but the sharing of technology, education, governance, religion, etc. 

What little we know about Kumano’s arrival in the kingdom comes from the Ryūkyū Shintō-ki (琉球神道記), a book authored by a Buddhist monk that documented the Ryukyuan religious experience in the early 1600s. We also know that the Futenma Shinto Shrine (普天滿宮), which was established in the 14th Century was one of the first shrines in the Ryukyus dedicated to Kumano worship, so its likely that Kumano worship spread to Okinawa well before the kingdom was established.  

In the book, monk Taichū Ryōtei (袋中良定) explains that the propagation of Kumano Worship in Okinawa was likely the result of traveling Buddhist monks who visited the islands. At that time, Buddhism and Shintoism were considered to be synchronized with each other, so it shouldn’t be surprising that Japanese monks spreading Buddhism also helped to spread Shinto beliefs as well.  

In one story, Monk Nisshu (日秀), who is credited with the establishment of the Kin Kannon Temple (金武觀音寺), used his supernatural powers to save the local village from a rowdy bunch of venomous snakes and from there stayed in Okinawa to spread Buddhism and Kumano Worship. 

Likewise there are several other stories of monks becoming shipwrecked or traveling specifically to Okinawa on exchange to spread Buddhism. None of these stories however fully explain why Kumano Worship in particular was so heavily promoted - It is safe to assume though that as Kumano was home to one of the more established Shinto sects in Japan as well being home to what many people considered to be the “Pure Land”, it was a major centre for Buddhist training which meant that many of the monks who later became missionaries would have trained in the area. 

Link: 沖縄の熊野信仰霊場を訪ねて (Japanese)

Points of Interest

There are quite a few small details to take note of when you’re visiting this little shrine and each of them serves a very specific and important purpose. Below, I’ll introduce some of the most important points of interest at the shrine that you’ll want to pay attention to, but if you’d like a more detailed introduction to Shinto Shrines, their history and architecture, I recommend checking  the link below to learn more about Japan’s traditional places of worship. 

Link: Shinto Shrine: History, Architecture, and Functions (Patternz) 

Shrine Gate (鳥居)

The gate to the shrine is known in Japan as a "Torii" gate, which simply translated into English as a ‘bird perch’. These gates are typically found at the entrance of a shrine and their purpose is to demarcate the transition from the outside profane realm to that of a sacred one. This means that once you pass through the gate, it is time to stop joking around and to be respectful. 

The Torii at Naminoue Shrine is known as a Myojin Torii (明神鳥居) which is one of the most common styles in Japan and simply means that its upper beam is curved while the lower beam is straight. Between the two beams there is a plaque that reads “Naminoue Shrine” (波上宮) and on either side of the gate you’ll find two large stone lanterns that light up the gate beautifully at night.

The gate is the largest of its kind in Okinawa and not only is it quite tall, its also wide enough to allow a lane for cars to enter on one side with pedestrian traffic on the other.  

Once you reach the top of the hill there is a second Torii gate that you have to pass through before reaching the interior section of the shrine. This gate is situated a level above the parking lot, so it allows people who have driven their cars into the shrine and parked their cars to also walk through a part of the visiting path to the shrine. This stone gate is much smaller than the first one and hung from the lower beam of the gate you’ll notice something known as the “sacred rope” or the “shimenawa” (標縄). The rope is thick and is decorated with “shide” (紙垂), which are beautifully cut paper streamers that are used in Shinto rituals. These sacred ropes are found all over Japan and have many different uses but here at the Shinto shrine it is used to help ward away evil spirits 

Visiting Path (參道)

The “Sando” (參道) or “Visiting Path” is a common feature with Japanese Shinto and Buddhist places of worship and acts as a path that leads to the Hall of Worship. The length of the path varies between shrine with some being quite short while others are several kilometers long.

The path at Naminoue Shrine is a short one that winds up a small hill and consists simply of a set of cement stairs with stone lanterns on the left and a small barrier fence on the right. As I mentioned above, the path is split into two with pedestrian traffic on the right and a road for cars to reach the shrines small parking lot. 

Once you’re at the top of the hill, you’ll pass through another Torii gate and the path to the main hall will come into view with the Purification Fountain on your left and the Administration Office on your right.    

Purification Fountain (手水舍)

An important aspect of Shintoism is something known as the "sacred-profane dichotomy". In terms of this temple, the Torii gate at the entrance of a temple separates the world of the 'sin' from that of the 'sacred'. When you walk through the gate you are leaving the world of the profane which means that you should do so in the cleanest possible manner. So in order to ready yourself for entrance into the sacred realm you would have to do so with a purified body and mind. 

As you approach the Purification Mountain or “chozuya”, you’ll notice a handy guide next to it that indicates the proper method of purifying yourself with a ceremony known as “temizu” (手水). The simple ceremony includes a few gestures that you’ll probably want to take part in if not just as a sign of respect, but because its hot in Okinawa and washing yourself with cold water is quite refreshing. 

  1. Pick up a ladle with your right hand, fill it with water and clean your left hand.

  2. Swap the ladle to your left hand and then wash your right hand.

  3. Swap hands again and pour some water into your left hand and take a drink.

  4. Wash your left hand again and then tilt the ladle vertically so that the remaining water runs down the handle.

What I really like about the Purification Fountain at this shrine is that it is situated within a tree covered area that offers visitors some respite from the sun. The fountain itself is beautifully decorated with the water spouts appearing in the shapes of dragons and the fountain itself made of a dark black coloured stone. 

Administration Office (社務所)

The “Shamusho” (社務所) is opposite the Purification Fountain and reaches as far as the Hall of Worship. The building is traditionally used to conduct the business of running the shrine and also acts as a place to allow the shrine personnel to rest. 

It is also where you’ll go if the shrine is holding a lecture or if the priests are holding special events or prayer ceremonies that aren’t held in the Hall of Worship. You’re likely to notice a long line of visitors at a window at the building as this is where you’re able to purchase good luck charms, amulets, ema, etc. from the shrine.

In the case of this shrine though, I gather that most of these public events are likely held at the Shrine Association building (神宮會館) which is directly across the street from the main gate. While not officially within the shrine area, the association building is frequently used for large public events and weddings and is where you’ll want to go if you want to rent a traditional Japanese yukata to get photos of yourself for your shrine visit.

Stone Guardians (狛犬)

One of the common features that you’ll find in the many of the places of worship throughout East Asia is that the temples and shrines are usually guarded by stone lion-dogs known in Japan as “Komainu” (狛犬). Thought to have originated in Korea, they typically appear in front of a temple and are meant to help ward off evil spirits.

Okinawa being Okinawa though, the traditional stone lion-dogs that guard the shrine have been replaced with the local version, the Shisa (シーサー), or “Shi-Shi” (獅子) in the local Ryukyuan language. The Shisa lions, I guess you could say are a distant cousin of the Komainu and are prevalent throughout the Ryukyuan islands acting as not only the guardians of temples and shrines, but also homes and businesses as well. 

The Shisa first appeared in Okinawa in the 15th Century and in the years since the lion has transformed into an image that symbolises the cultural identity of the people of the Ryukyuan islands and there are many legends in the area that tell of how they arrived.   

Link: Shisa: The Guardian Lions of Okinawa (Kampai) 

Hall of Worship (拜殿)

Shinto Shrines are renowned for their impressive ability to blend in harmoniously with the natural environment around them, which shouldn’t really be all that surprising considering that it is a religion that worships deities related to nature. 

If you weren’t already aware, the Shinto deities, or “kami” are almost always objects found in the natural environment such as animals, birds, rivers, mountains, trees, etc. For outsiders this can be a bit confusing, especially since there are eight million different kami - a number that is synonymous with infinity. 

For the Shinto, the relationship with the natural environment is extremely important given that the earth can bring both blessing and disaster. It is thought that if the kami are worshipped adequately and in a responsible way, then they will bring good fortune to the world. If on the other hand they are disrespected or neglected, they will react violently or bring misfortune. 

Essentially, respect for the environment is one of the main tenets of Shintoism and the construction of these shrines never fails to keep that in mind. With over 80,000 shrines in Japan, Shintoism contributes to society providing ecological sanctuaries that can be enjoyed by all. 

The thing is though, the natural environment in Okinawa is considerably different than what you’ll come across in other parts of the Japan. This means that what you’re going to experience at Naminoue Shrine is going to be a lot different than what you’d see anywhere else in Japan. The shrine of course keeps with tradition and is surrounded by nature, but as it is situated atop a cliff that overlooks a pristine beach, the area around the shrine is covered with palm trees and tropical plants.

The design of the Hall of Worship, or the “Haiden” likewise is unique to Okinawa as it was constructed according to Japanese tradition but designed in a way that pays homage to the Ryukyuan people, especially with with its usage of the colour red and the beautiful red tiled “Aka-Gawara” (沖繩赤瓦) roof that has become synonymous with the architecture found all over Okinawa.

The combination of the three primary colour with the red on the shrine, the green palm trees and the beautiful blue Okinawan sky makes the shrine appealing to the eye and allows it to stand out in the sunlight. 

Link: Ryukyuan Architecture in Zamami: Red Tile Roofs (The Zamami Times)

As you approach the Hall of Worship, the first thing that will stand out to you is the beautiful red roof and pillars mixed with the painted white walls. The closer you get though, the smaller details become much more apparent. 

The first thing you’ll want to take note of are the three plaques placed just below the roof - The middle plaque reads “Naminoue Shrine” (波上宮) while the plaque to its left reads: “Peace reigns over the land” (萬民泰平) and the one on the right reads “National Protector” (國家鎮護). Given Naminoue’s position as the prefectural shrine as well as Okinawa’s unfortunate history, the plaques are quite fitting to the modern Japanese philosophy of non-aggression.

Hung from the lower beam of the gate you’ll notice something known as the “sacred rope” or the “shimenawa” (標縄). The rope is thick and expertly braided and is decorated with “shide” (紙垂), which are beautifully cut paper streamers that are used in Shinto rituals. These sacred ropes are found all over Japan and have many different uses but here at the Shinto shrine it is used to help ward away evil spirits. 

In front of the doors you will find some hanging curtains with a circular logo on each - The crest, known as a “shinmon” (神紋) is the “mitsudomoe” (三ツ巴), which appears to be a comma-like swirl that is commonly associated with Hachimon Shrines (八幡神社) in Japan. 

In Okinawa however the crest was adopted as the emblem of the royal family of the Ryukyuan during the First Sho-Dynasty around seven centuries ago. In Okinawa the crest is known as the “Hidari Gomon” (左御紋) and today you’ll find it not only at Shinto Shrines, but also at Shuri Castle and in most of the imagery that represents the islands. The crest is experiencing something of a resurgence in recent years as it was banned for several decades after the Japanese took control of the Ryukyus. 

Link: 'Hidari Gomon' The Ryukyu Symbol (Budo no Kukyo) 

The crest likewise has deeper connections with Okinawa’s Shinto Shrines as it is thought that the the origin of the design was inspired by the “Yatagarasu” (八咫鳥) or the ‘three-legged crow’, a common image throughout Asia, but is closely associated with Kumano worship. If you visit any of the Kumano Shrines in Japan, you’ll see images of the crow all over the place.

Link: The Legend of Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow and its possible origins (Heritage of Japan)

Most of what you’re going to want to see from the Hall of Worship is on the exterior, but if you’d really like to walk up to the doors to take a peak inside, you’re going to want to follow tradition and first follow a few steps which will impress the locals.

First you’ll want to walk up the steps to the wooden box in front of the main doors. You can drop in a small donation (there’s no set amount), then clap your hands twice to alert the kami of your presence, then with your hands clasped together, bow your head and make a wish. When you’re done, its tradition to bow. From there you can approach the open door and take a peak inside of the shrine room to see whats happening. 

When you look into the interior of the Hall of Worship, you’re going to see a large open room with very little in terms of decoration and tables in the middle where the kami are located.

As I mentioned above, the Shinto Shrines in Okinawa adhere to Kumano Worship, one of the largest denominations (if you will) of the religion. Most of the information you’ll find online does a great job explaining the three UNESCO World Heritage shrines in the area and their history but does a poor job of actually explaining the deities enshrined within. 

Officially, the shrine at Naminoue is dedicated to the ‘Kumano Deities’ but this becomes confusing as you can’t see the actual shrine. From my research, information suggests that the shrine consists of three mirrors which represent ‘Hayatama no kami’, ‘Kotosaka no kami’ and in the middle, the group of ‘Kumano deities’. 

Where this gets confusing is that both of the gods are commonly associated and included within the group of ’Kumano Deities’ that I listed above. In this case, Hayatama no Kami, who is a water god and Kotosaka no kami, a protection deity, are likely given more importance given the importance of the ocean and farming to Okinawa. I’m clearly not an expert on this subject though, so if I’m wrong, please feel free to correct me. 

  • Left -> Hayatama no kami -> 熊野速玉大神 (はやたまのをのみこと)

  • Centre -> Kumano Deities -> 熊野大神 (くまののおおかみ)

  • Right -> Kotosaka no kami -> 事解之男神 (ことさかのをのみこと) 

Naminoue Beach

It is safe to say that If it weren’t for the beach below the shrine, this shrine would never have been built. A sacred space for the local Ryukyuan people for hundreds of years, the high cliff above the beach was the perfect vantage point for people watching ships making port in Naha from all over Asia. 

Today the view of the ocean is blocked by an elevated highway over the beach, which kind of ruins the view, but the bridge does have its advantages as it allows people to take some pretty photos of the shrine sitting beautifully atop the high cliff. 

Most notably for locals however is that Naminoue Beach is the only beach in the capital that is open to the public for recreational activities. The long white sand beach is a popular spot for locals to enjoy the scenery, have a BBQ or a picnic, play volleyball or go for a swim. 

As mentioned above, the view at the beach is obscured by an elevated highway. While this does ruin the view for swimmers, it does provide an excellent opportunity for photos as there is a walking path along the highway where you’ll be able to get some shots of the shrine sitting atop the cliff above the beach.

If this interests you, you’re going to have to walk for about ten minutes to get to the bridge but getting there is fairly straight-forward. From the main gate to the shrine continue walking down Naminoue-dori where you’ll pass by a large driving school. Continue along the sidewalk until you reach the bridge where you’ll make a right turn onto the bridge.

Getting There

Guide Map to Okinawa's Confucius Temples and Naminoue Shrine. www.goteamjosh.com/blog/kumekong www.goteamjosh.com/blog/naminuoe

Naminoue Shrine: #25-11 Wakasa District 1, Naha (沖繩縣那霸市若狹町1丁目25-11)

MAPCODE: 33 185 023

Getting to Naminoue Shrine is quite easy and is even easier if you have access to the internet and Google Maps, given the difficulty of navigating Japanese-style addresses. I’d suggest though that you travel on foot as it will give you the best opportunity to explore as well as saving time and money.

If you’ve rented a car, you’ll definitely be able to find a car park nearby where you can drop off your car and check out the area. The problem with car parks though is that the parking fees are rather expensive and if you plan on checking out the shrine, the beach and the neighbouring Naha Confucius Temple, you’re going to need a bit of time. So, if you’ve got a car, the best thing to do would be to leave it where you’re staying, take the monorail and walk. 

If you choose the latter, you can conveniently take the monorail to either the Prefectural Office Station (縣廳前站) or Miebashi Station (美栄站) and walk from there. I’d personally recommend walking from the Prefectural Office as it is a short walk and doesn’t require making too many turns, making it the easier route to navigate. The routes I’m sharing below might not be the fastest, but they require very little in terms of turning and getting lost in alleys. If you have internet access on your phone, just use your GPS and you’ll arrive in 20 minutes. 

Directions from Prefectural Office Station

From the Monorail Station you’ll exit onto a large road named Onaribashi-dori (御成橋通り) where you’ll walk up the hill in the opposite direction from the Kokusai International Street (國際通). Simply follow that road until you reach the beach where you’ll make a left turn where you’ll quickly find the shrine. 

Directions from Miebashi Station 

From Exit #2 of the Monorail Station make a left turn onto Okiei Street (沖映通り) and then walk straight until you reach the end of the road along the ocean. From there turn left again and follow the coastal path until you reach Naminoue Beach and the Shrine. 

If you’d like to take a bus, the shrine is serviced by Naha City Bus #2, #5, #15 and #45 where you’ll get off at the Nishinjo Stop. To catch any of these buses, simply go to the Prefectural Office Monorail station where you’ll find the bus stops on the road below the station. 

Link: Bus Map Okinawa (Bus Routes / Schedules) 

Tourists..

One of the most noticeable differences you’ll find in Okinawa from the rest of Japan is the absence and concentration of Shinto Shrines - Given the Ryukyu’s unfortunate modern history, it shouldn’t surprise you that there are so few left standing nor should it be surprising that the local people don’t always share a similar love of Japan’s state religion as those on the mainland. The situation with regard to cultural identity in Okinawa is a complicated one and as time passes, it tends to be one that drifts further and further apart from the rest of Japan. 

Nevertheless, the lack of shrines does make the few left standing even more important. So, if you’re planning to visit Okinawa, you can expect that your visit to this shrine to be shared with quite a few locals. 

Nevertheless, the rarity of Shinto Shrines in Okinawa makes the few left standing today important places of worship for those who adhere to the religion as well as for travelers. 

As the highest ranking shrine in Okinawa Prefecture and the largest in the capital city of Naha, Naminoue Shrine has become an important place of worship for locals as well as a major tourist attraction, so if you’re visiting the city, you’ll definitely want to stop by to check it out. 


Kin-Kannonji (金武觀音寺)

Okinawa is known for its beautiful beaches, amazing food and slow pace of life. This just might be why the local people have one of the longest life expectancies in the world. Nicknamed the “Land of the Immortals”, the islands have the highest rate of centenarians in the world.

Even though diet is probably the largest factor, it is also said that the slower pace of life and carefree attitude of the locals, despite all of the adversity that they’ve faced over the past few centuries has certainly contributed. 

Suffice to say, the past couple of centuries have been rather disastrous for the Ryukyan people. Once a powerful kingdom that made its riches from international trade, Okinawa fell under the subjugation of the Satsuma Clan, the Tokugawa Shogunate, the Meiji Empire only later to become one of the most important focal points of the Second World War.

Despite all of this, the people of Okinawa are resilient and are proud to display their culture and all that they’ve been able to accomplish in the decades since the war ended.

Sadly much of what Okinawa lost over the past few centuries has been difficult to completely restore and many of the places that tourists flock to today, including Shuri Castle, Naminoue Shrine, Futenma Shrine, etc. are all recent reconstructions that have allowed the local people to bring back some semblance of normalcy to their lives. 

Even though the Okinawa of today has been completely rebuilt and redeveloped, the fact remains that finding anything that pre-dates 1945 is extremely rare.

The Kin Kannonji Buddhist temple, located in the central area of the island was one of the few buildings lucky enough to survive the war and even though it is a bit of a distance away from the capital, should be one of those destinations on every tourists itinerary.

The temple is located within the small coastal town of Kin (金武町), which is home to Camp Hansen, one of Okinawa’s largest military bases. The town is a bit of weird one that seems almost completely devoid of life during the day, but apparently comes alive at night in order to cater to the American service men and women who live in the area. 

Known as the birthplace of Okinawan “Taco Rice” and for its production of the local Okinawan rice wine “Awamori”, there’s not much else in the area apart from its beautiful Buddhist Temple, which has been designated as a protected cultural relic.

Still though, a trip to Kin is well worth the short drive out of Naha, if only for checking out this historic place of worship which not only includes a Buddhist temple, but also a Shinto Shrine and a beautiful limestone cave. 

Kin-Kannonji (金武觀音寺)

Starting out with its name, “Kin Kannonji” (きんかんのんじ) literally means the ‘Kin Kannon Temple (金武觀音寺), which simply tells us the location of the temple and who is worshipped inside.

In this case, it is the Buddha of Compassion, known in Japan as “Kannon” (觀音). 

If you’re unaware, the ‘Buddha of Compassion’ is referred to by several different names in the many countries of Asia, but is one of the most commonly worshipped Buddhist figures.

Interestingly, even though most people in Asia regard ‘Kannon’ as a goddess-like figure, in Tibet,  the Buddha of Compassion manifests as the “Dalai Lama” who has traditionally been reincarnated as a male and historically has acted as a god king of sorts.

While Kannon most often appears in a female form in Eastern Asia, it is quite common to find statues that appear to be androgynous, leaving the gender of this all-important Buddhist figure somewhat unimportant.

Link: Guanyin (Wiki)

Kannon

The temple was established in the early 16th Century by a famous Japanese monk Shonin Nisshu (日秀上人) whose arrival in Okinawa is the stuff of legends. The most likely explanation is that he set off from Japan to search for the so-called “Pure Land”, a mountain island paradise, which is thought to be where Kannon lives. Unfortunately while on route he was shipwrecked by a typhoon and washed ashore in the Kin area, saved by the local villagers.

Upon his arrival, legends insist that he used his strength with the dharma to perform some miracles that greatly improved the lives of the local citizens (more on that later) which elevated his status in the community and allowed for him to start his missionary work and the construction of the temple. 

Although the actual date of the temple’s initial construction isn’t documented very well, most agree that its history dates back to 1522, which is relatively the same period as when Nisshu arrived in the area.

I suppose you could say that the exact date of the temple’s construction isn’t really all that important though. The original burnt to the ground in the 1930s and the building we see today was a pre-war re-construction.

When you walk down the visiting path, you are met with some standing statues of Amida Buddha, which are likely going to be wearing the popular floral pattern t-shirts that you’ll see everywhere in Okinawa. Once you’ve made it past them, the path opens up to a large tree-covered courtyard with a garden to your left, the cave entrance to your right and the temple directly in front of you. 

Keeping with tradition, the design of the temple is simplistic in nature and is constructed entirely of wooden columns that support a visually impressive curved roof. When it comes to Japanese temple architecture, there really is a tremendous amount of beauty in its simplicity and this temple is a stunning example of that. 

The foundation is elevated above the ground using stone and wooden planks that help to protect the structure from earthquakes. The interior is constructed entirely of local wood and is a large open space with only a few wooden pillars helping to support the roof. There are also sliding doors on all sides that (when moved) change the dynamic of the room and allow for fresh air and light to enter.

In terms of decoration they keep with tradition and take a very minimalistic approach to the design of the room - At the main door you will be met with an incense urn where you can purchase some incense or some lucky charms (based on the honor system) and say a little prayer.

You can’t actually enter the room on your own, but the doors are quite large, so you can get a pretty good view of the interior from the outside.  

You’ll find another altar sitting between two pillars which that opens up to the main shrine where the resident monks do their daily prayers.

The main shrine is a simple set up consisting of a statue of Kannon (觀音) with wood-carved statues of Amida (阿彌陀佛) and Yakushi (藥師佛) on either side.

In front of the shrine you’ll find two stone lanterns which help provide a bit of light in the room, but not really enough to take nice photos of the statues from a distance. 

The most notable aspect of the temple (design-wise) is the ‘Irimoya-zukuri’-style roof (入母屋造) which is the Asian version of a ‘hip-and-gable’ roof - but a hell of a lot cooler.

In this specific style of roof, there is a main section known as the “moya” (母屋) covering the central core of the building, while the hipped portion known as “hisashi” (廂) extends well beyond the interior portion and the outside veranda. 

The amazing thing about this design is that the size of the roof (in comparison to the lower part of the building) means that its weight has to be supported by a complex system of brackets and supporting blocks which expertly distribute weight and ensures that the building is structurally intact. 

While the design of the roof is quite typical for Japanese temple architecture, what sets this temple apart is the usage of native Okinawan red tiles known as “Aka-Gawara” (沖繩赤瓦), which is quite common for construction throughout the Ryukyu islands, but almost non-existent in Japan. The red tiles, which have faded somewhat over the years blend in quite beautifully with the wood that was used to construct the temple and makes the building shine in the sun. 

Next to the temple you’ll find the administration office where you can go to purchase some good luck charms, seek some spiritual advice or just have a friendly chat. The staff that work at the temple are often quite busy maintaining the grounds, but they are really friendly and appreciate visitors, especially tourists who want to learn about the area. 

While touring the grounds it‘s likely that you’re going to notice that the area is covered by a couple of really large trees. These trees are also considered sacred as they date back to the construction of the original temple and are anywhere between 350 - 400 years old. You’ll notice that the trunks have decorations on them and that the area around the tree is well taken care of. It is also quite common to see local visitors taking family photos in front of the trees.

Nisshu Cave (日秀洞) / Kin Shrine (金武宮)

A 270 meters in length and a depth of about 30 meters, the famous cave that sits directly beside the temple is named, “Nisshu Cave” after the monk who founded the temple. Considered to be hallowed space in Okinawa, the cave is highly regarded not only because it is the home of a small Shinto Shrine, but also because it is partly used as a storage area for locally produced Awamori rice wine (泡盛).

One of the main reasons why the cave is considered sacred to the local people however isn’t because of the shrine or the rice wine stored inside - It is thanks to a local legend that serves as the basis for the creation of the shrine and the temple. 

The legend tends to vary a bit but the more realistic story goes a little like this: In 1552, when Buddhist Monk Nisshu (日秀) was attempting to return to Japan after spending years in China on pilgrimage, he was washed ashore in Kin when a typhoon hit. Rescued by the villager, he wanted to show his appreciation, so he set out to vanquish a disorderly bunch of (extremely venomous) Habu snakes that had infested the cave and were blamed for wreaking havoc on the locals. It would take some time, but when he was finally successful in ridding the area of the snakes, he placed some hand-carved images of the Buddha, Yakushi (彌勒佛) and Kannon (觀音) in front of the cave to act as a protective seal.

The more imaginative version of the story on the other hand tells of a single giant Habu snake, which lived in the cave and would slither into town, drink all the water in the well and on its way back home would have its way with local farm animals. When Nisshu appeared he used his supernatural powers and chanted Buddhist sutras at the entrance of the cave which eventually drove the snake away permanently. 

Whichever story you prefer, the origin of the temple is a direct result of whatever happened at the cave back in the 1500s and the safety that the townspeople could finally enjoy was repaid through their gratitude and the construction of the temple.

The cave has a set of stairs that allow you to descend to the cave floor and explore the interior - The further you go down however the darker and damper it gets, so you’re going to want to watch your step. If you have a light on your cellphone, you might want to turn it on so that you can see where you’re going. Once you’ve made it to the bottom of the staircase, the view looking back at the surface is quite beautiful with all the limestone stalactites hanging from the roof of the cave. 

Once you get to the bottom you’ll notice there is a gated cave door that blocks you from walking any further. This dark cavern leads to the Awamori storage area and (unfortunately) isn’t part of the free tour. 

Since 1949, the Kin Tatsu-no-Kura (龍の蔵) company has stored bottles of their locally produced rice wine in the cave for anywhere between five and twelve years. The company offers three daily tours of their section of the cave, which is filled with thousands of bottles of expensive wine.

The rice wine is as a popular local gift with many people electing to buy a bottle of the wine and having it stored at their own cost for well over a decade for special occasions. If you’d like to visit this section of the cave, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee of ¥400 for one of the tours (11am, 2pm, 3:30pm). 

Link: Tatsu-no-Kura (Okinawa Travel Info) 

The Kin Shinto Shrine (きんぐう) is a quaint little shrine located within the Nisshu Cave next to the temple. Despite the fact that it is not a full fledged shrine like Futenma Shrine or Naminoue Shrine, it is considered to be one of the ‘Eight Shrines of Okinawa’ (沖繩八社) meaning that it is still quite important. Enshrined within the hokora (祠) are the three popular deities worshipped as the “Kumano Sanzan” (熊野神) and are also worshipped at most of Okinawa’s other shrines. 

The history of this little shrine doesn’t seem to have been very well recorded, but what I’ve been able to find is that the legend of the monk Nisshu’s arrival in the area dates back to 1552 and the Buddhist Temple outside was established shortly after. It is also thought that this shrine was the first in Okinawa to worship the Kumano deities, so if that were true, it would have to pre-date the Futenma Shrine, which was constructed shortly after the Kin Buddhist temple under the patronage of the same king.

It is important to note that when the temple was constructed in the 16th Century, the relationship between Buddhism and Shintoism was considered to be symbiotic in nature, so when Nisshu arrived in Okinawa, he brought with him his knowledge of Buddhist philosophy, but he is also credited as the person who started ‘Kumano Sanzan’ worship in the Ryukyus. 

Unfortunately during the Meiji Era (明治), the government made Shintoism the state religion and instituted a policy known as “Shinbutsu Bunri” (神仏分離) which forced the separation of Shinto and Buddhism (which was regarded as a foreign influence). This meant that shared spaces within shrines were no longer permitted. 

This policy however had little effect on this temple and the two continued their symbiotic relationship allowing worshippers to visit to pay their respect to Kannon and the Kumano Sanzan as well.

Unfortunately when most tourists descend into the cave, they tend to pay more attention to their beautiful surroundings and easily pass by the small shrine without paying much attention to it. It might be small, but it is one of Okinawa’s most historically significant shrines, so stopping for a minute to check it out and pay your respects is always a good idea. 

Getting There

 

Address: 222 Kin, Kin Township District, Okinawa (沖縄県金武町金武222)

MAPCODE: 206 140 144

If you’re driving a car to the temple, simply input the Map Code provided above and your GPS will navigate the best route to the temple. The drive is quite simple as you’ll just need to get yourself on the Okinawa Expressway heading north eventually exiting at the Kin IC

From there you’ll follow Route 329 into the downtown area of Kin and will make a left turn when you see signage for the temple. You can park your car in the free parking lot directly opposite the entrance to the temple. 

You’ll want to keep in mind that the expressway in Okinawa requires a toll, so when you get on the highway you’ll have to grab a ticket and you’ll pay when you exit. If you are driving directly from Naha to the Kin Exit, you can expect to pay about ¥600-700 each way. 

Link: Okinawa Expressway Tolls

If you plan on visiting the temple and want to use Okinawa’s public transportation network, getting there is actually quite straight forward. From the Naha Bus Terminal you’ll want to board  Bus #77, which should take about 110 minutes to arrive at the Kin (金武) stop. From there you’ll almost instantly notice a large white road sign that reads: “Kin-Kannonji” which is about a 230 meter walk away from the main road. 

Link: Okinawa Bus Route List

Before heading back, you might want to take some time to walk around the streets and explore the alleys of Kin, which seem to cater exclusively to the US Army stationed at nearby Camp Hansen. The area is full of seedy bars and pubs and during the day most of the town is boarded up with little to no activity which is a bit odd compared to the rest of Okinawa. 

Coincidentally one of the only places in town that is open during the day is Okinawa’s famous “King Tacos” which serves up extremely filling Taco Rice dishes. If you’re hungry and want to get something to eat before heading to your next destination, you may want to consider stopping by and trying out this tasty yet weird Okinawan specialty.  

If you’re heading to Okinawa to spend most of your time on the beach, you’re sure to be delighted as there are over a hundred world class beaches to choose from. If you’re like me however and enjoy taking in a bit of history during your travels, you might end up feeling a bit disappointed.

The sad reality is that there are currently few buildings that pre-date the war, but this little temple was one of the lucky ones that was spared and has been able to withstand the test of time. It is easy to visit Naminoue Shrine or Shuri Castle, but if you want to see something truly historic, you’ll definitely want to make your way out to the small coastal town of Kin to check out its beautiful Buddhist temple


Okinawa’s Kouri Island (古宇利島)

The main island of Okinawa is home to well over a hundred world-class beaches which are renowned for their crystal clear water, beautiful white sand and coral reefs making the prefecture one of the most popular summer holiday destinations in Japan.

When planning a trip to the Ryukyu Islands, you are certainly spoiled for choice when it comes to making a decision about where you’re going to go for a bit of outdoor activity. With such a large number to choose from, there are obviously going to be some pros and cons for each that should assist you with your decision making process.

When it came to the planning for this trip, we had quite a few options as well as quite a few suggestions from friends who had already visited Okinawa. So when it came time to decided where we’d be slumming it on the beach, we made sure that the ones we chose fit into our long list of places that we wanted to visit.

In the end we chose two very different beaches, one of Okinawa’s most popular, namely Manza Beach (万座ビーチ) and another that was relatively secluded on a distant outlying island. Fortunately the latter ended up being the best as the beach we chose to go swimming at wasn’t jam-packed with people and the experience was absolutely fantastic.

Today’s post is about our day trip to northern Okinawa’s outlying Kouri Island (古宇利島), which is connected to the rest of Okinawa by an almost two kilometre bridge. Our trip to the island would not just include swimming at Kouri Beach, but the popular Kouri Ocean Tower and the picturesque ‘Heart Rocks’ as well.

Kouri Island (古宇利島) 

Kouri Island, located just off the north-western area of the main island of Okinawa was officially connected to the rest of Okinawa in 2005 through a series of bridges. The first bridge takes you from the main island to Yagaji Island (屋我地島) and then from there you cross the beautiful Kouri Bridge - the longest bridge of its kind in the Ryukyus.

The small island, circular in shape has a radius of about 1km and features an 8km road that encircles the island. It is also home to a large population of about 350 people.

Since becoming accessible by car, the island has transformed into a popular destination for both local and foreign travelers who brave the ninety minute drive out of the capital to enjoy the beautiful beaches and crystal clear emerald waters.

Most visitors to the island are likely to opt for driving around the island, and admittedly that is what we did, but if you visit, I would recommend parking your car at the free parking lot on the Kouri side of the bridge, renting a bicycle and enjoying the beauty of the island at your own pace. The thing about Kouri island is that it is small, and so are the roads, so if you see something beautiful, you’re unable to stop to take photos.

Likewise you can’t stop on the bridge, but if you’re on a bicycle, you can easily stop to enjoy much better views of the bridge and you might even be lucky enough to see sea turtles swimming by in the water below.

In retrospect, I wish I had of done a bicycle tour - the weather however wasn’t cooperating for most of the trip.

For most tourists, the beautiful beaches are enough reason to visit the island, but for the local Ryukyuan people, the island has been long regarded as the ‘Island of Love’ by the local Ryukyuan people.  

Legends claim that the Okinawan version of  ‘Adam and Eve’, ‘Uminai’ and ‘Umiki’, lived alone in a cave on the island before having children who eventually spread to the rest of the islands. 

Thanks to the legend, Kouri Island has always been a popular destination for couples, especially to visit the Heart Rocks and the cave where Uminai and Umiki were thought to have lived thousands of years ago.

The local economy also caters quite a bit to the notion of the island being a romantic one with picturesque chapels set up to host weddings while overlooking the beautiful ocean and landscape of the island. 

Kouri Bridge / Beach

Coincidentally one of the main attractions on Kouri Island is the bridge that connects the island to Yagaji Island and the rest of Okinawa. Completed in 2005, the nearly 2,000 meter long bridge is the longest (toll free) bridge in Japan and might arguably be one of the most beautiful in the country. 

If you are visiting on a sunny day you are going to be in for a real treat as you approach the bridge.

Knowing this, I had anticipated our arrival and patiently watched the GPS in our rental car as we passed through farmland on Yagaji Island. As we approached, the sky suddenly became a lot wider and when we started to drive up an incline, it signalled our arrival at the bridge. I could hardly believe my eyes looking out the window on all sides of the car as the colours in front of us were spectacular - The clear blue sky in addition to the emerald green sea looked amazing and instantly reminded me of my trip to Palau a few years prior.

The 1,960 meter long bridge doesn’t take much time to cross, but you’ll likely notice that people start driving considerably slower when they’re on it. This is because the scenery is so stunning that its hard to concentrate on driving while feasting your eyes on the panoramic landscape in front of you. Unfortunately you can’t stop your car on the bridge, but you are able to walk or ride a bicycle across it, so if you have the chance, I recommend trying one of those. 

Once you cross the bridge you are immediately met with Kouri Beach and the Kouri Island Market (古宇利市場) where you’ll find free parking, bike rentals, coffee shops, restaurants and (most importantly) Blue Seal Ice cream vendors. There are also changing rooms and shower facilities for those who visit the beach. 

While others might enjoy some of Kouri Islands other attractions, Kouri Beach (古宇利ビーチ) would turn out to be the highlight of the trip for me. When we arrived at the beach, it was just after a downpour and most of the people had already left, so we pretty much had the place entirely to ourselves. I took that opportunity to first take some photos of the beach without a bunch of tourists blocking the view. Afterwards, I returned to the car, put all my camera gear away and returned to the beach for a swim. 

The water at Kouri Beach is crystal clear, warm, deep enough for a real swim and doesn’t have any strong currents that could prove dangerous. It was an absolute pleasure to swim around in the water for an hour before getting back in the car and heading back to Naha. 

As I mentioned above, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to beaches in Okinawa, but the beautiful water, fine white sand and the addition of the picturesque bridge make Kouri Beach an ideal one if you’re looking for a place to swim for the day. 

Kouri Ocean Tower (古宇利海洋塔)

The Kouri Ocean Tower is a multi-faceted tourist attraction located a short distance away from Kouri Beach. The tower opened in 2013, shortly after the completion of the bridge and consists of an observation tower, sea shell exhibition, restaurant, souvenir shop and a chapel and well.. not much else. 

After paying an admission fee of ¥800, you are ushered into a narrow path where you’ll line up for driverless carts that will transport you further up the hill to the entrance of the tower. While riding up to the top you’ll probably enjoy yourself as you’re being transported through a beautifully maintained tropical garden.

Once you pass through the doors you are immediately met with a sea shell museum that is out of this world. I mean, if you’re into seashells that is.

If you’re like me and you don’t particularly care much about sea shells, you’ll probably go straight for the elevator that will take you to the main attraction, the observation platform in the tower. The first platform is on the interior and is covered with glass on all sides allowing for excellent panoramic views of the bridge and the ocean. The thing is though, taking photos through glass isn’t preferable, so you’ll probably want to make your way to the top of the tower where there is a giant bell (that annoying tourists will definitely ring as if climbing a flight of stairs is an accomplishment) and a 360 degree view of the island. 

The view from the tower is beautiful and you get to have a birds eye view of the bridge and the ocean, but I’m not really sure that the price of admission is really worth the experience.

I would have preferred to instead use that money to rent a bike and ride around the island. 

But hey, if you’re interested in sea shells, you’re certainly going to enjoy the large display. 

Once you’re done with the tower, you’ll make your way towards the exit where you’ll have to pass through a souvenir shop where you’re able to purchase lots of Okinawa Omiyage (souvenirs). I don’t usually fall for these kinds of tourist traps, but I tried a couple of pineapple sparking wines that were locally made and were quite tasty, so I bought a couple of bottles to bring back to Taiwan.

A few days later though when we were doing our last minute shopping we found the same bottles on the International Shopping Street in Naha for a fraction of the price.

If you visit the Ocean Tower, you’ll definitely be able to enjoy the view from the tower, but I don’t really feel like there is much else there that warrants much of your time. 

Link: Kouri Ocean Tower

Heart Rocks (ハートロック)

Our excursion to the Kouri Island ‘Heart Rocks’ turned out to be quite an interesting experience.

Before I get into that though, I think I should mention a minor pet peeve of mine - Here in Taiwan (where I live), people often visit locations with rocks that they claim look like something.

For example: Rocks that look like animals, gods, people, etc.

I’ve never been a fan of this kind of stuff, and friends insist that I have a don’t have much of an imagination, but I don’t really understand the attraction. Nevertheless you can’t go to Kouri Island and not see the Heart Rocks, so I went along for the ride and tried my best not to complain.

When you get close to where the Heart Rocks are, you’ll find several parking lots set up where you’ll have to pay a fee to park your car and use the trail to the beach. The parking lots are a bit of a tourist trap, and the closer the parking lot is to the beach the more you’re going to have to pay.

You can’t just leave your car on the side of the road, so you’re more or less forced to pay the fee. 

Once you’ve parked, it is a short walk down a trail to the beach where you’ll find a small coral beach with the famed Heart Rocks protruding out of the ocean. The rocks, which I suppose you could say look like hearts are quite picturesque and you’ll find quite a few people lining up to get photos in front of them. 

The area has always been well known with locals, but rose to fame in recent years thanks to the Japanese boy band, Arashi who shot an airline commercial with the rocks as a backdrop. This brought the existence of the rocks into popular culture and ever since then, the area has become a popular stop for Japanese and Taiwanese tourists who insist the location is romantic.

While we were taking photos of the rocks, the weather took a turn for the worse and a light drizzle of rain forced most of the other tourists to leave. We thought of this as an opportunity to take some nicer photos so we stayed for a bit. Unfortunately that light drizzle turned into a torrential downpour of biblical proportions and we had to take cover in one of the caves to wait out the storm.

For most people a visit to the ‘Heart Rocks’ is a romantic experience, because, well, the rocks look like hearts. For me though, as I sat there huddled inside a cave during a torrential downpour, all I could think of was that the terrible weather probably meant that I wasn’t going to be able to go swimming at Kouri Beach.

Fortunately after about half an hour of waiting for the rain to stop, it finally did and we made our way back to the car to change out of our wet clothes and dry off.

If you love rock formations, then yeah, a visit to the Heart Rocks is going to be a rewarding experience. Even if you don’t though, if you find yourself on Kouri Island, you should probably stop by for a short visit because this beach is quite picturesque. 

Getting There

 

If you’ve rented a car for the duration of your travels in Okinawa, getting to Kouri Island should be quite simple as all you’ll have to do is enter the MAP CODE of your destination in your rentals GPS and you’ll be on your way. The island is only a 20 minute drive away from the popular Churaumi Aquarium, so you can visit both in the same day.

From Naha you’ll want to get on the highway heading north until you reach the Kyoda IC. Once there you’ll continue north on highway Route 58 until you reach Route 110 which takes you across a bridge to Yagaji Island where you’ll continue along the same road until you reach the turnoff for Kouri Island by way of the bridge. 

If you are traveling to Kouri Island from Churaumi Aquarium, you’ll want to follow Route 505 until you reach Route 248. From there you’ll make a left turn towards Yagaji Island crossing the Warumi Bridge and then once again making a turn left on Route 110 where you’ll quickly approach the Kouri Bridge. 

You’ll want to keep in mind that the expressway in Okinawa requires a toll, so when you get on the highway you’ll have to grab a ticket and you’ll pay when you exit. If you are driving directly from Naha to the Kyoda Exit, you can expect to pay about ¥840 each way. 

Link: Okinawa Expressway Tolls

If your car has a GPS, you can simply input any of the Map Codes below and it will automatically come up with the best route to get to your destination.  

MAPCODES

  1. Kouri Island: 485 662 804*11

  2. Kouri Bridge: 485 601 893*22

  3. Kouri Beach: 485 662 803*44

  4. Kouri Ocean Tower: 485 693 483*30

  5. Heart Rocks: 485 751 209*63

As far as making use of Okinawa’s public transportation network, if you plan on visiting Kouri Island without a car, I won’t say its impossible, but its certainly going to cause a bit of frustration and is going to include a combination of Highway bus, local bus, a taxi ride or a bit of a walk.  

Link: Okinawa Bus Route List

First you’ll want to take Highway Bus #111 or #120 from Naha Airport or the Naha Bus Terminal to the final stop at the Nago City Bus Terminal. From there you’ll want to transfer to a local bus on the Yagaji Line (#72) and take it to the “Untenbaru Iriguchi” stop. From there the bridge is about a one kilometre walk but you might instead want to opt for a taxi ride. 

You may also want to consider just taking a 30 minute taxi ride from Nago to the island, which should cost around ¥3000

Link: Nago Bus Terminal - Untenbaru Schedule / Route Map

You could likewise take bus #117 from Naha Airport or the Naha Bus Terminal to its final stop at the Churaumi Aquarium and from there hoping in a taxi to the island.

Whatever method of public transportation you choose, you’ll definitely be able to arrive at the island, you will however feel quite a bit more relaxed and free if you have your own rental car!

Although some might consider a trip to Kouri Island a bit too far away from the capital, it is considered by most Japanese and Taiwanese travelers to be one of the must stop excursions on any Okinawan holiday. The island might be small, but what it offers visitors in terms of natural beauty is arguably second to none in Okinawa. If you’ve got a car and you plan on visiting the popular Churaumi Aquarium, you’d do well to also include a visit Kouri Island as well. If you do, I promise you, you’ll be glad you did!