Hsinchu

Hsinchu Confucius Temple (新竹孔廟)

If you travel to any major city in Taiwan, you will be sure to find a Confucius Temple as there are around twenty of them spread throughout the country. Confucius temples are unlike typical over-the-top Taoist temples as they are constructed with simplicity in mind. 

I always tell my friends that when you visit a Taoist temple, no matter how big or small it is, you can spend hours admiring the dedication to art and the careful detail that went into the construction of the building whereas Confucius temples are completely different and almost Zen-like in how quiet and simple they are. 

A visit to a Taoist temple can be an exciting and noisy experience with large groups of people going about their business and a bit of sensory overload with all the beautiful colours. 

Confucius temples are less busy, a lot more quiet and much better if you are in a reflective type of mood seeking some solace from busy Taiwanese streets. 

The Main Hall of the Temple

The Hsinchu Confucius Temple (新竹孔廟) has a long history dating back to 1810. The original temple was a centre for Confucian education, and then later for general education. It was used as a dormitory for Japanese soldiers during the Japanese-Colonial period much to the disdain of the local residents who eventually got them to move out. 

In 1975 the temple relocated to a new location situated a short walk behind the Hsinchu Train Station (新竹車站) in the Hsinchu Park (新竹公園) and has since been used primarily for ceremonial purposes as education is now the responsibility of the public school system. 

The Main Shrine Room

Like all the other Confucius temples in Taiwan, the Hsinchu temple is quiet and on the day I visited it just so happened that I was the only person there (except for the groundskeeper.) The Hsinchu Park next to the temple was quite active however with several dozen senior citizens playing checkers, drinking tea and chatting. 

Spirit Tablets

Spiit Tablets

The most important part of the temple is called the "Da Cheng Hall" (大成殿) and in it is housed "spirit tablets" (神位) which are used to designate the seat of a past ancestor or deity.

Above the tablets there are two large plaques with calligraphy:  

The black plaque has inscriptions that are taken from the Analects of Confucius (論語) and say 「有教無類」which translates as "Education for everyone no matter what their background." 

Above that we have a blue plaque that has「萬世師表」which refers to Confucius as a "model teacher for all time." 

One of the common features of all Confucius temples is that there is no imagery or statues of Confucius. This is a rule that goes back almost 500 years to the Ming Dynasty when the emperor decreed that all Confucius temples should be uniform and only have spirit tablets rather than images of the sage. 

The Groundskeeper seeing me off!

The Hsinchu Confucius Temple doesn't seem to be the tourist destination that its counterparts in Taipei and Tainan seem to be, but it has its own unique charm and one of the reasons I really enjoyed it was that I felt almost completed secluded while visiting!

If you need some quiet time in a peaceful setting while in Hsinchu, the Confucius Temple might be the best place for you! Unless of course it is September 28th which is Confucius's Birthday and Teacher's Day - the busiest day of the year at the temple! 


Getting There

 

The Temple is a short ten minute walk from the Hsinchu Train Station. When you exit the station, take the underpass to the right of station which will take you to the back of the station.

From there walk straight until you reach Hsinchu Park (新竹公園) and you will find the temple at the back of the park.

For more information about Taiwan’s Confucius Temple’s please check out my Confucius Temple Guide.


A walk through Beipu (北埔老街)

Beipu (北埔鄉) is a small village in south-eastern Hsinchu county - The village is home to around ten thousand people which is small by Taiwanese standards and has a population consisting almost entirely of the Hakka ethnic minority. The village is known among locals as the Hakka Capital of Northern Taiwan and is a popular excursion for the people of Taiwan to enjoy a bit of history, culture and cuisine.   

The Hakka people have had an interesting history migrating all over China and Taiwan as well as spreading further into Malaysia and Singapore. The early years for the Hakka in Taiwan weren't easy as they had to work together to endure hostile periods of Japanese rule as well as issues with other ethnic Chinese and the Indigenous peoples. 

A child playing in front of Ci-Tian Temple (慈天宮)

With security in mind, the village of Beipu was constructed in a way that was thought would help to defend the people within the village from outside attack. Most of the original village is still around today and consists twisting narrow alleys that become somewhat of a maze to someone who is not familiar with the roads. 

The village doesn't really have to worry about being attacked anymore, but if the buildings in the village that remain well-preserved are any indication of the success in their defensive strategy, the original planners should be commended as the village serves as a living testament to a much different time in Taiwanese history.

These days the village has become a popular tourist spot as people from all over the country come to visit the famous “Beipu Old Street” (北埔老街) to have a stroll through a historic village and sample Hakka culture at its best. 

Hakka culture has had a resurgence in recent years and a lot of effort has been made to preserve the language and educate people about one of Taiwan's largest ethnic minorities. There are many 'Hakka Villages' all over Taiwan, but Beipu is known as one of the most important and most successful in preserving the heritage of the Hakka people. 

A vendor showing off her dried persimmons (柿餅), a specialty in the area.

I've visited Beipu quite a few times. I'm a big fan of its old street and the restaurants in the village. It's not a very long drive from where I live, so I tend to visit when I have no real plans for the day and want to have something good to eat and drink. 

The thing about Beipu that keeps me coming back is that it has retained its old charm without selling out to attract foreign tourists – especially those from China. Since the easing of relations between the two countries over the past five or more years, the influx of flag-following tourists has become an issue for a lot of these “old streets” which have had to adapt and expand to accommodate the numbers of people they bring. 

As someone who has lived in Taiwan long enough to remember what it was like before a lot of these places started to change, it is easy to see how some places have lost their original charm and have lost a bit of authenticity while changing for the worse to make a quick buck.

An old open-air mansion converted into a popular tea-house.

Beipu fortunately has retained its old charm, so you are still able to visit any day of the week and have a great time and not have to wait in long lines to have something to eat or drink some tea. The food in Beipu is great and almost every restaurant you step in serves up some pretty amazing Hakka dishes that you may not be able to find in other parts of Taiwan. 

Narrow alleys between houses on the old-street.

The village is always at its busiest on the weekends, so I wondered what it would be like to go over on a weekday. I wanted to explore a lot of the streets in behind the “old street” and behind the main temple without having crowds of people in my shots in order to see the village in a more natural light than what I'm used to. 

As expected, the village was more or less void of tourists that day and as I was walking around during the “siesta” time of the afternoon, it was relatively quiet. I was able to see a few residents outside of their houses doing some cleaning and going about their daily lives, a singing motorcycle-mailman happily making his rounds and a gang of stray cats enjoying the peace and quiet among all the historic buildings and alleys that are within the village and surrounding the temple.

An old mansion near the old street.

Ci-Tian Temple (慈天宮) dedicated to the Buddhist goddess Guanyin is more or less the central point of town. The temple which was built in 1846 (a level three cultural relic in Taiwan) is always quite busy and even during the quiet times of the day, you can still see a few tourists and the residents of the village visiting.   

A Taiwanese woman praying at a shrine in the temple.

Interestingly I walked past a house near the temple that had lots of vegetables for sale. There was however no one in sight and the doors were closed. The owner put up a sign with a price-list of the vegetables and left a bucket full of change. The basic idea was that you take what you want and if you didn’t have exact change you could reach into the bucket and make change on your own – this kind of honour system is something you are still able to find in small villages around Taiwan and to me is a reason why I love places like Beipu. 

Home made Hakka Peanut Candy (花生糖)

If you plan on visiting the village, you have a few options, weekends are the busiest and every restaurant is open. You'll experience a much more lively village than you would if you visited during the week – however if you are into exploring leisurely or are into street photography a visit to the village on a weekday is highly recommended – no matter what you chose, a visit to Beipu is always a good time and comes highly recommended from me.

Young and old having a discussion.


Getting There

 

If you are relying on public transportation to Beipu, you can easily take a bus from the Hsinchu High Speed Rail Station, Zhubei Train Station or Zhudong train station by taking the Lion's Head Mountain tourist shuttle bus. 

台灣好行觀光巴士-獅山線
在「新竹高鐵站」或「竹北火車站」或「竹東火車站」搭乘觀光局的「台灣好行獅山線」觀光巴士到「北埔老街」站下→步行5分鐘即到達。


Lunar New Year Day 1 (初一)

The Lunar New Year holiday is a 15 day long celebration celebrated by Asian cultures throughout the world. Before the New Year arrives, Taiwanese people spend a lot of time preparing for the celebrations to come.

These preparations usually include cleaning the house from top to bottom and putting up decorations. Snacks, fireworks, fire crackers, sparklers and all sorts of food needs to be bought well beforehand to avoid the crowds of shoppers. Red envelopes (紅包) or "lucky money" are also prepared as gifts for all the children in the family. 

Lunar New Year's Eve ( 除夕) is the time when the family gets together for a traditional feast and reunion - The feast varies between cultures and regions and the dishes you will find prepared really depends on the family you are celebrating with.

An elderly Taiwanese woman eating steamed rice balls (湯圓)

In the area of Taiwan where I live a large majority of people are of the Hakka (客家) ethnic minority. Hakkanese food tends to be a bit saltier and has a bit more flavour than typical regional dishes from China. The Hakka-style feast usually consists of several varieties of pork, some fish, braised chicken and vegetables - all of which have different meanings dealing with health and money but ultimately escape me as I’m too busy eating as much as I can shovel into my mouth to really notice.

I wasn't really a fan of eating pork before coming to Taiwan (probably because we’re just not that good at preparing it the way people here do) but Hakka pork dishes certainly turned me to the "pork-side" of the force. These dishes such as salty pork (鹹豬肉), braised pork knuckles (豬腳), Dongpo pork (東坡肉) and Braised pork with preserved vegetables (梅干扣肉) are all amazing and even when I was a vegetarian I'd have a hard time turning down a few bites of these amazing dishes. Its common to find a few of these dishes at a Hakka family's new year feast, so I'm always happy if I'm invited to join in the celebration. 

A Taiwanese man burning Ghost Money

After the dinner, the fireworks come out and the kids go outside to play with firecrackers and sparklers. Lunar New Year tends to be a noisy time of the year and people set off fireworks at all hours of the day. It's probably the only time of the year when this kind of noise is both allowed and tolerated at the same time. Personally, all these fireworks stress my dog and I out, so if I'm celebrating the holiday with friends, I tend to stay inside when they come out. 

It's probably also not a good idea to give a Canadian boy like myself some fireworks when I've been drinking. I'd likely burn the place down or blow myself up.  

When everyone is finished playing, people come in, eat fruit, a variety of nuts and different types of sweets and exchange red envelopes and offer New Years wishes.

After the envelopes are passed out, people will either start getting ready to go home or if you are hanging out with a fun family, they start gambling and drinking or maybe even singing karaoke. 

There are quite a few games that families play - I've never learned how to play Mahjong, but I have learned a few other games like the card game "Big Two" (大老二) and the really fun dice game "Xibala" (擲骰子) where you have fun gambling and never really care whether you win or lose. 

A Taiwanese man praying

Yesterday was the first day of the New Year (初一) and is another busy day spent with family. Families in Taiwan typically wake up in the early hours of the morning to perform certain religious rituals known as “bai-bai.” (拜拜) and visits temples. 

I decided to get up really early, grab my camera bag and made my way to some temples to get some shots - usually on the first day of the Lunar New Year I'm too hungover to take part, but this year I decided not to drink!  

Temples at this time are busy as almost every family in Taiwan will visit at least one. This year I visited two smaller temples near home and visited the “Mecca” for Hakka people in Taiwan: “Yi Ming Temple” (義民廟) which is dedicated to Hakka heroes who are hailed as patriots for giving their lives defending Taiwan from a revolt during the Qing dynasty. 

The offering tables to the gods in front of Yimin Temple

Yi Min Temple was busy yesterday filled with thousands of people making offerings to the gods, eating some dishes provided by the temple and trying their luck with the lottery (which is also a popular activity during the Lunar New Year.) The temple was loud, jam-packed with people and full of activity. Everyone seemed to be in really good cheer and having fun. 

When Taiwanese people visit temples during Lunar New Year, they usually buy tools for worship at little shops near the temple which include incense sticks, ghost money and some kind of food offering. After lighting the incense they will make their way to a shrine and raise the sticks to their heads and introduce themselves to the God afterwards making a request for good health for themselves and their family as well as a little prosperity if the god sees fit. 

Once they finish speaking to the god they bow several times and thank him, her or it and move on to other shrines. When they finish with all the shrines in the temple (usually there are several) they will leave a food offering on a table in front of the temple which is offered to the god as thanks. 

Bowing after praying.

Every temple in Taiwan is a bit different, so each family tends to visit the same temple every year as a matter of familiarity. The “bai bai” culture is engrained in almost every person in the country whether or not they believe in the religions or not - so while a lot of the population may actually be agnostic - most will still practice these rituals as a matter of respect for their culture and traditions. 

When people are finished with the religious stuff, they have the option of waiting in line and being fed by people who volunteer at the temple. Its just my guess, but from the long lines I saw yesterday at Yimin Temple, they likely fed several thousand people. 

Trying their luck with scratch tickets!

There are others like myself though who would rather not wait in line, so they buy something to eat at one of the many vendors around the temple and they will also try their Lunar New Year luck with lottery tickets and scratch tickets. There are usually long lines to buy the tickets as well but it seems like it is important to try their luck - so the lines in the case are likely much more tolerable. 

After a long day of waking up early, visiting a few temples and having lunch with the family it is usually time to go back home and rest. There are still a few more days of the vacation left and there is still lots to do! 

The second day of the Lunar New Year (初二) is when wives typically go back to their home for a reunion with their families which involves more eating! 

For me though, it just so happens to be my dogs third birthday - I'm planning on spending a relaxing day with him and then heading down south in the next day or so for some more Lunar New Year temple festivities in central Taiwan.

Hopefully the weather stays nice so that I can also get in a good hike before going back to work!   

Thick Incense Smoke at Yimin Temple

I hope everyone in Taiwan is having a great New Year vacation.

I'll be posting more in a few days.

新年快樂~


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Shots)