Taoyuan

Daxi Old Tea Factory (大溪老茶廠)

Nestled in the mountains of Taoyuan county is the old Daxi Tea Factory (大溪老茶廠.) The factory has been a constant fixture in the town over the past century, but it had lived in obscurity and a state of abandonment for the past twenty five years. 

Interest in the factory spiked in the last year or so and (if you are on Instagram and have seen anything from #Taiwan) you're bound to have seen quite a few shots of Taiwanese girls taking selfies or posing in the factory. The factory is becoming a popular day trip for people living in the northern part of the country for its retro atmosphere and the beautiful light inside the factory turned museum-style tea shop and restaurant. 

Walking through the warehouse

Reading

Why the resurgence in interest with a century-old factory you might ask? After years of work, a top Taiwanese architectural firm recently completed renovations and a redesign of the site and was the recent recipient of a very prestigious award honouring achievement in architectural design.

With all the interest the tea factory has attracted, it has become a hot spot for people in the know to visit and is also close enough to other attractions like the Cihu MausoleumDaxi Old Street, the TUBA Church and Xiao Wulai Waterfall all of which you can enjoy on a single day trip to Taoyuan.

Fresh Tea

Fresh Tea

The original tea factory, a two storey warehouse-looking building was constructed in 1925 by the Taiwanese Agriculture and Forestry Company (台灣農林公司) and holds a unique place in the history of Taiwan’s tea industry as one of the early players in Taiwanese trade and development.

The location of the factory played an important role as it processed black tea coming down from the mountains in Fuxing (復興鄉) and was then packaged and taken to Daxi to be sent off for sale or export.

Eventually though, new methods of transportation made the river less important and the economy in the Daxi area started suffer. The factory was abandoned sometime in the early 90's and was left standing for over twenty five years before renovation efforts started in 2010.  

Lots of windows to allow air circulation for the tea to dry

When the renovation of the site was completed, one of the original warehouses was removed and made room for a zen-like stone pond that sits beside a restaurant on one side and a relaxing tea house on the other. The pond gives off a relaxing feeling and sitting beside it in the tea shop or the restaurant is quite interesting with the huge open windows and view of the mountains surrounding the factory.

The architects who redesigned the site won the award for this open air design and from a design perspective it is actually quite interesting with the glass windows facing the mountains and the pond. The first floor is also home to an interesting museum-like area which shows the tools and machinery that used to be used when processing the tea to teach people what went into processing tea with guided tours and a small theatre area that plays a video of the history of the factory.

The second floor of the warehouse however is what seems to be the most interesting to people and is the place where the majority of the shots I've seen on Instagram are from. When you arrive on the second floor you'll notice that there are machines for processing and drying tea in the middle of the large floor.

The floor is very old looking and grey, the lighting isn't very bright and it is an excellent for taking pictures as the majority of the light on the second floor is primarily ambient light coming in from the open windows. On a sunny day, I imagine that the light on the second floor would be even better and is probably going to be a popular spot in the future for some of Taiwan's wedding photographers. 

The day I visited was quite overcast which caused the warehouse to look a bit more dreary from the inside. There are large tables on one side for people to enjoy tea and read, and there are chairs throughout the floor that are really old and repainted with cool looking colours. I spent the majority of my time on the second floor because photographically speaking, it was quite cool looking with the light and the contrasting colours.  

The first floor also has a really cool little shop that sells a lot of tea lovers paraphernalia as well as high quality Taiwanese tea. If you visit and you're a fan of tea, I'd recommend checking out some of the stuff they have for sale, or just try some of it in their cool little tea shop beside the pond.  

My favourite shot of the visit. 

The Daxi Tea Factory is a pretty cool and appeals to people in completely different ways. If you're a fan of tea, then you're in the right place to buy some of Taiwan’s famous tea. If you are into learning about history, you can learn about how people in Taiwan produced and processed various types of tea around a century or so ago. Finally, if you're into design and architecture, this is going to be a really great place for you to admire what has been accomplished in the renovation of this building from a rotting abandoned factory to a beautiful multi-functional place for the people of today to enjoy.

The tea factory hasn't been reopened for very long and while it is popular in certain circles, it isn't an extremely busy tourist attraction yet – so try to visit as soon as you can before it gets too popular! 

Website (Chinese Only) / Directions


TUBA Church (基國派老教堂)

Note: As of September 2019, the Tuba Church is closed and a gate has been constructed to block access to the church for both the local indigenous community and tourists alike.

The period of closure is currently unknown due to a land dispute with the land owner holding the local community hostage for the price of $10,000,00NT.

Until the church reopens to the public, I’ll leave this notice here. If you are planning on visiting the area, make sure to check local news to see if it’s reopened or now.

How many tourist spots in Taiwan designated by the Ministry of Culture (文化部) as one of the ‘Top 100 Historical Spots’ in the country and are empty on a Sunday afternoon? How many of them are a western-style church? I'm not counting, but I think it is safe to say that this one might be the only one and despite what it lacks in size and panache, this little church in the mountains is pretty cool. 

The TUBA church (基國派老教堂) is a small church nestled in the mountains of Taoyuan county and was built by the Indigenous people living in the area as a place to worship. The church no longer holds services and a more modern and larger version has been built next to the original, yet the original church holds special meaning for the people living in the area and is a well-preserved historical building. 

It was was constructed by the Atayal people (泰雅族) in 1963 as a place for the people of the remote TUBA tribe (基國派) to worship. The tribe built the church with their own hands using stones that were carried one-by-one from the nearby Sanmin Batcave (三民蝙蝠洞.) 

The church was used between 1963 and 1992, but ultimately became too small for the growing population of the tribe.  After moving to the newer church, the original wasn’t used or maintained and fell into a bit of disarray. The community however realized the cultural value of the old church and decided to restore it to its original state. Today the church stands in its original spot and is celebrated as a monument to the preservation and cultivation of Atayal culture and history and is now recognized by the government as a national historical monument. 

If you find yourself between Daxi and Fuxing someday, turn left off the main road when you see the sign for the Sanmin Batcave and check out this old church nestled in the mountains. Its not very large and you don’t need much time to see it, but it really is quite remote as far as things go in Taiwan and the mountainous landscape around the church is quite nice. 


Taiwanese Opera (歌仔戲)

I don't go on rants on my blog very often, but here we go - 

When you think of things that are uniquely Taiwanese, what comes to mind? Night markets? Bubble tea? Stinky tofu? 

I ask this because when most of us think of things that are “Taiwanese”, the first thing that comes to mind is usually food. That isn’t necessarily a bad thing - Taiwan is without a doubt a world-famous food-crazed country, but what else could we present to people coming to Taiwan as something that you can only see here?  

I would argue that an excellent example of something that you will only find here is the native theatrical opera which has evolved over the years into an important part of the cultural identity of the country. 

There are some people however who insist that the Taiwanese opera is actually not "Taiwanese” at all and constantly refer to it as the "Chinese opera" to fit their own specific narratives. 

So here’s an analogy for you: In Canada, the earliest Europeans who arrived a few centuries ago came from the United Kingdom or France. I wonder if any of these people would use this knowledge to accuse me of not being Canadian? Would they say that because my country has influences of British or French culture that we are in fact not Canadian at all? Would they say that maple syrup or our love affair with hockey aren't actually Canadian at all? I highly doubt it. 

When it comes to the Taiwanese opera, I don’t think I have to make silly analogies to really prove that the opera is uniquely “Taiwanese”, but due to the precarious situation of Taiwanese-sovereignty this causes some people to have the inability to grasp the concept that the people living here, much like the people living in Canada have formed their own unique identity and cultural institutions that differentiate them from the land where their ancestors hailed from.

With our collective human history, I wonder if we can we truly argue that, just because something has “influences” from another land that it cannot really be a unique and celebrated aspect of another culture? 

Roadside Opera (路邊歌仔戲)

So, let me talk about the origins of the Taiwanese opera and try to shed a bit of light upon why it is 100% Taiwanese.

It would be silly not to start out by mentioning that China claims sovereignty over Taiwan and despite the reality of the situation (Taiwan being an independent, free and democratic country), the PRC’s claim also includes more than just sovereignty over the land, but also things like Bubble Tea and the Taiwanese opera as their very own. 

Taking that into consideration, you might hear people say that since 'Taiwan is actually a part of China', then of course Taiwanese opera is "Chinese." The actual reality of the situation however is completely different and if are living here you should know full well that this is not the case. Taiwan is not a part of China and the People's Republic of China has never held sovereignty over the island or its people. 

I suppose the next argument you will see from most of these naysayers is that the Taiwanese opera is influenced by the folk-tales of southern Fujian Province (福建省) in China, which is one of the areas where the early immigrants who came to Taiwan originated. 

Please don't disrespect my culture

If your opinion is thus solely based on literature coming out of China, or because the settlers who came to Taiwan centuries ago were “Chinese”, then I would argue that it would be best for you to stop reading propaganda and make an effort to actually attend a performance of a Taiwanese opera troupe and then also one of Taiwan’s various Peking Opera troupes which regularly performs in Taipei so that you can see with your eyes the differences between the two. 

One of the most important differences is that the opera here is performed entirely in the Taiwanese language (台語) rather than in Mandarin. A difference in language is probably not enough to prove my argument though, especially since the people I'm ranting about likely speak neither Mandarin nor Taiwanese. 

It would be extremely difficult for them to fully understand the poetic complexities and word play of the Taiwanese opera as opposed to styles found in China - but the visual aspects and differences between the two should be more than enough for even the most uninitiated to notice.

Historically, the first recorded instance of any form of opera being performed in Taiwan was in 1624 - From that time on several performance styles and forms of singing and acting were brought to Taiwan by immigrants from various regions of China. The people living here at the time took these various styles and combined them to form their own opera and opera troupes began forming around the country in order to offer some entertainment to the mainly agrarian population. 

The Taiwanese opera that we know today originated in what is now Yilan County (宜蘭縣) and while early performances used folk stories from Fujian province, the opera quickly evolved and started using folk-songs and stories that were set in Taiwan and dealt with the sometimes harsh nature of living in the country at the time. These stories have helped to not only preserve historical events on the island, but also act an important educational tool about the cultural heritage of the island.

While the development of the uniquely Taiwanese-style opera is interesting, the history of the opera has been one of survival and adaptation that has seen its popularity rise and decline due to social transformations in the country (Ex: Japanese colonialism, WW2, The Chinese Nationalist takeover and a modern entertainment industry to compete with.)

At the height of its popularity, the opera was performed both on stages inside and outside, as well as on the radio, in movies and on television. One of the main reasons why the opera has been able to survive is due to its ability to adapt and modernize - Which I would argue is an area where the Peking Opera (and its rigid system of rules) has fallen behind when it comes to appealing to modern audiences. 

The resurgence of the opera over the last decade is also in part due to the success and hard work of the world famous Ming Hua Yuan Opera Troupe (明華園總團) which is well known for combining intricate performances with modern technology and has made the opera more appealing and accessible to younger Taiwanese as well as promoting Taiwanese culture and art to the global community. 

The photos I’m sharing today are not from Ming Hua Yuan, but a small travelling Opera troupe that performs on the roadside during temple festivals or whenever anyone contracts our their services. The cool thing about living in Taiwan, and one of the major differences between this country and China is that it is quite common to see these amazing performances on the road or at temples during festivals.

The opera troupe performing in these shots is the “Hong Ming Opera Troupe” (鴻明歌劇團) which performed a few different operas for a very small audience outside of Keelung’s Lao Da Gong Temple (老大公廟) which I was visiting in order to get shots of the Ghost Gate before Ghost Month finished up. 

Roadside opera performances are quite common in Taiwan and while the actors are performing out of a makeshift stage (that they pack up each and every day) they put on excellent live performances with music performed by an in-house band and are always free of charge (or paid for by local temples.) 

The Taiwanese opera doesn't rely on high-flying acrobats or high-pitched singing voices like its Chinese counterparts - Performances are often quite laid back and rely on short Haiku-like sentences of five or six words, facial expressions, hand gestures and the imagination of the audience. 

If you take away all the modern technology and the radio and television performances, the modern opera continues to be grounded in its grassroots origins and is still faithful to the stories about the simplicity of early life on the island for the immigrants. This simplicity is what continues to make the opera endearing to Taiwanese people and is also indicative of both the history of the country and the cultural identity of the people living here. 

The precarious nature of the political situation of this country can be solved another day, but the question as to whether or not the Taiwanese opera is uniquely Taiwanese shouldn't be up for debate by anyone both inside or outside of the country. 

I would hope that through this rant, that the people will look at the Taiwanese opera in a different light and respect the people in this country who formed their own style of traditional entertainment and have kept it alive through hard work and dedication. 

I will be shooting Ming Hua Yuan, Taiwan's most famous opera troupe next month, so expect some more shots of these great actors and actresses and some more promotion of this important part of Taiwan's culture. 

I'm embedding a Youtube video below that explains a bit of the origins of the Taiwanese opera in English and Chinese (with subtitles) and talks a little about the differences between Taiwan's native opera and that of the opera in that other country. 

As always, if you have any questions, comments or criticisms, please comment below or get in touch with me through the contact section on the menu below. 



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