Taoyuan

Tiemu Waterfall (鐵木瀑布)

Tie-Mu Waterfall (鐵木瀑布) which translates literally as "Iron Wood Waterfall" is a beautiful waterfall in Taoyuan's mountainous Fuxing Village (復興鄉) in an area between the popular Dongyanshan Forest Park (東眼山森林遊樂區) and Xiao Wulai Waterfall (小烏來瀑布) and makes for an excellent side trip if you're in the area or even an excellent place to escape the hot summer heat for a swim in a chilly mountain river. 

The waterfall is a part of Xiayun River (霞雲溪), an important river that finds its source high in the mountains in an area between Dongyanshan (東眼山) in Taoyuan county and Manyueyuan (滿月圓) in New Taipei City. The river flows down into Taoyuan and eventually merges with the much larger Dahan River (大漢溪) a few kilometres away from the waterfall and ultimately flows into Taoyuan's Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫). 

There is an area downstream from the waterfall which seems quite popular for camping, swimming and barbecuing during the summer months but strangely the waterfall seems like it is relatively unknown and for some reason isn't really appreciated by travellers (and locals) which I find a bit odd considering the size of the falls and the close proximity to the road and a village. 

The waterfall is situated within the beautiful Xiayun Village (霞雲村) an Atayal (泰雅族) village just off of the Northern-Cross highway (北橫公路) - The small Indigenous village s surrounded by mountains and the river runs directly through it making it quite a pretty place to visit. While driving through the village searching for the waterfall there was a community activity being held at the elementary school which was promoting Atayal culture to the children who lived there. 

Getting to the waterfall can be a bit precarious as there are no markings that tell you how to get to the falls so if you plan on going remember that while Google Maps is often your friend, it isn't really to be trusted in this case as it will have driving around in circles.

To make things easy, before you arrive at Xiayun Elementary School (下雲國小) take a right turn on Kuzhi Road (庫志道路) and go down the hill, cross the bridge and go up the hill for about 100 meters before arriving at a small wooden platform on the right side of the road.

The platform has a spot to view the waterfall from above but it is mostly covered by trees, so in order to get a better look just take the stairs down the hill which will bring you to the top of a cliff where you will have a much better vantage point to see the waterfall.

From the cliff you can make your way down to water-level using ropes to scale down the rock face (It is actually quite easy so don't worry too much!) or you can turn right and walk down a trail that follows a path above the river but leads you away from the waterfall.

There are warning signs about deep water and swimming that are meant to dissuade people from swimming, but the pool in front of the waterfall is a pretty good one for a swim, especially during the hot summer months. On the day I visited the falls the water was only about shoulder deep but there was a current that would put you back to the shallow part of the pool. 

If you plan on going for a swim, remember to be careful and exercise caution. Fuxing village is quite remote and the closest hospital is probably more than an hour away. You don't want to find yourself getting seriously hurt while swimming. Also, when accidents happen in places like this there is usually a knee-jerk reaction from the government to shut down access.

This was the first waterfall I've had a swim in so far this year and I had a great time cooling off - The water was cold but refreshing on a 35 degree afternoon! I'm a little annoyed with myself that I have lived in Taoyuan for so long and never knew about this beautiful place until this year but I'm sure I'll go back many times in the future! 

If you plan on visiting, have fun and make sure to be careful while enjoying the natural beauty of the area!

Link: Follow Xiaofei - Tiemu Waterfall


2016 Tung Blossoms (客家桐花祭)

In April and May forests in Taiwan turn white with the popular Tung Blossoms (油桐花) that line mountains and hillsides around the country. Locals often refer to Tung Blossoms as "April Snow" or "May Snow" (depending on when they are in full bloom) and their arrival attracts people from all over the country to places where they grow in abundance.

The Tung Tree (油桐樹) is a deciduous tree that can grow up to 20 meters tall and is endemic to south China and Burma. It was originally brought to Taiwan by the Japanese during the occupation period and was planted in mountainous areas in north-western Taiwan. The cultivation of the tree was important primarily to the Hakka people who lived in the areas where the trees were planted. The trees have thus had a long-lasting relationship with the Hakka people and that relationship continues to this day as the tree has become an important symbol of their culture.

The importance of the tree originally was because of the economic benefits it brought - The seeds were instrumental in the production of Tung Oil (桐油) which was used to make paint, varnish, caulking and wood finish while the wood in turn was used for making everything from furniture to toothpicks. The economic benefits the tree brought rural communities allowed families to make ends meet. When those economic benefits eventually subsided, the tree transformed into the symbol of the Hakka people who drew parallels between the simplicity and hard working nature of  their culture and the tree as well as showing their respect for the economic prosperity the tree brought them.

In 2002 the Hakka Affairs Council (客家委員會) started the "Hakka Tung Blossom Festival" (客家桐花祭) an annual event that takes place during the blooming season as a method to promote and preserve Hakka culture as well as to help improve economic development and tourism in Hakka towns. The yearly event attracts large crowds of people in part to see the Tung Blossoms but also to experience Hakka culture and cuisine - especially in old town towns like Beipu, Daxi and Nanzhuang where there are popular "old streets" that already work quite hard to preserve Hakka culture. 

May Snow (五月雪) 

The Tung blossom is just one of the various types of blossoms that bloom during the early parts of the year in Taiwan. Spring is a busy time of the year in Taiwan for people who appreciate this kind of things. The Tung blossom differentiates itself from the others though as it is the only one that "symbolizes" one of the cultures of the country. The Tung blossoms may not be as popular as cherry or plum blossoms (the national flower) but in recent years they have become an important part of the annual "Hanami" (flower viewing) habit of the Taiwanese people between January and May and as fas as I'm concerned, viewing the Tung blossoms and enjoying and some amazing Hakka food on the same day sounds like time well spent! 

I consider myself lucky living in Taoyuan (Literally: Peach Garden) where we start the year with cherry blossoms (櫻花) and then get peach (桃花), plum (梅花) and Tung blossoms shortly after. I never really have to go very far to see this stuff and it is convenient that I can often avoid the large crowds by travelling by scooter close to home and driving past all the traffic.

One of the coolest things about the Tung blossoms is that in areas where they grow in abundance they tend to turn hiking trails 'white' as the blossoms fall to the ground. This is somewhat similar to what happens in Japan with the Sakura snow referred to as Hanafubuki (花吹雪). Tung blossoms are different however because of their colour and give off an effect of snow falling in the forests which is beautiful as at any giving time hundreds of them are falling around you while you're hiking.

Tung Blossoms in a small mountain stream. 

The festival has only been happening for fourteen years but in that time the blossoms have become popular with people of all ages. In the past few years though they have become quite popular with young Taiwanese couples who enjoy hiking into the mountains to have impromptu romantic photoshoots with the Tung Blossoms. You'll also notice that it is quite common that people along the hiking trails will spend time gathering some of the blossoms that have fallen on the ground and arranging them into hearts or Chinese characters such as the word for love (愛) as well as other shapes on the ground. Husbands or boyfriends even go as far as making a 'Tung blossom halo' that they put around their head of their partner. This is all quite new but with the help of the media, it has only fuelled the popularity of the Tung blossom festival. 

Technically speaking, the problem with shooting Tung blossoms as opposed to Cherry or Plum blossoms is that the trees are typically on the side of mountains and are very tall. Cherry blossom trees are actually quite short and only ever reach about 10 meters tall making them extremely easy to take photos of while Tung blossoms are more of a pain in the ass as you can't get that close to them. This means that if you are like myself and want photos of the blossoms still on the tree, you are going to need the help of a telephoto lens of at least 300mm in focal length.

Most people however are unlike me and prefer taking shots of the blossoms as they fall to the ground and don't really focus on them too much while they're still on the trees. Apart from taking shots of the blossoms on the trees I prefer finding a hiking trail that has a river stream running through it so that I can get photos of the blossoms sitting in the water or just using my telephoto lens to take shots of the shapes all the other photographers spend a lot of time arranging.

Photography like all art is subjective and when it comes to this stuff there is no right or wrong way of taking photos - it is up to the person taking the shots and what they want to show. I prefer photos that are much more natural than something staged and you won't ever find me arranging the blossoms into hearts (but I'll still grab a quick shot or two if someone does the work for me)   

The 2016 Tung Blossom festival is on until May 22nd (the blossoms may actually last longer than that) and apart from viewing the blossoms there are many activities planned during the weekends in Hakka towns throughout Taoyuan, Hsinchu and Miaoli (among others) where visitors will be able to experience Hakka culture, cuisine and art as well as traditional performances. This is an important time of the year for cultural promotion and preservation so if you have a chance, try to get out and enjoy some of the activities, some Hakka Lei Tea and of course the blossoms. 

Website: 2016 Hakka Tung Blossom Festival 


Daxi Longshan Temple (大溪龍山寺)

While doing research for my post about Taipei's most famous temple, Mengjia Longshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺). I came across an article that claimed that when the temple in Taipei was under attack during WW2, some of the statues from the temple were moved to the Daxi Longshan Temple for safekeeping.

I had immediately thought it was a bit strange because Longshan temple is one of Taiwan's most famous temples, but unlike a lot of Taoist temples, I had no idea that there were actually other branches throughout the country let alone one near where I live! 

With major Taoist and folk-religion temples, it is quite common to find temples with the same name - Temples such as the Tian-Hou (天后宮) temple, City God temple (城隍廟), and Confucius (孔廟) temples can be found in various cities throughout the country. Each temple varies a bit and usually has a place name in front which differentiates the temple from the others. For example: Taipei Confucius Temple and Hsinchu Confucius Temple are a few examples of the temples I've covered in the past that have the same name. The temple carries the same purpose, but typically vary in architecture and design. 

With a bit of research I was surprised not only to find out that there were several Longshan temple's throughout the country, but also the location of the one that I didn't know existed near my home in Daxi.  

Daxi (大溪) is a small village, but it is the home of a few famous temples as well as the popular old street which are all a short distance from each other. The Daxi Longshan temple is a bit far from all of that however and that is probably why I wasn't aware that it existed. 

The temple was originally built as "Longshan Temple" in 1868 but was destroyed a few years later by the Japanese in 1895 due to efforts by the colonial government to force Japanese culture upon the people of Taiwan. When the Japanese realized that it wasn't a very successful policy, they put a stop to it and the temple was rebuilt in the same location under a different name.

The temple was renamed Xiangyun temple (香雲俺) and stayed that way until 1981 when it was officially renamed to the Yongfu Longshan Temple (永福龍山寺) and became more commonly known as the Daxi Longshan Temple (大溪龍山寺) as you may notice on the incense urn in the photo above. 

The temple, similar to Taipei's Longshan temple in that it is dedicated to the goddess Guanyin (觀世音菩薩) and other Buddhist deities. The shrines are much smaller in scale however and the temple is actually very simple in comparison to the Taipei version.  

The temple is actually quite nice but cannot really be compared to the much older (and more popular) version. If you search for information about it online, it seems like the temple is actually most well-known for the hiking path behind it. The path takes you up a mountain and gives pretty great views of the Daxi river valley.

The mountain turns white in early spring with Tong blossoms (油桐花) which are the Hakka version of cherry blossoms. The path is popular during early spring with people travelling from all over the country to come see the blossoms. (I'll have a post about Tong Blossoms from the mountain in a few days). 

The temple is nice to stop at for a short time - There isn't very much to see, but if you want to do an easy hike you can check out the temple for a short time and then take a hike up the path on the mountain. If you're in the area, check it out. It's rarely busy and the environment around it is quite nice!

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