Taoyuan

Yixing Suspension Bridge (義興吊橋)

As an avid Taiwan travel writer, one of the things I try to keep up on are the popular travel-related trends around the country at any given time. For example, in recent years we’ve seen a resurgence in the popularity, especially among the younger Insta-generation for hiking, attending flower festivals, enjoying beaches, etc. 

Thanks to the power of social media when certain locations go viral, you can be sure that it will explode with day-trippers who are willing to travel from one end of the country to the other just to take a photo of themselves in a certain location or to eat at a specific restaurant. 

It’s actually quite amazing to see it in action. 

Take one of my favourite hikes as an example - Wuliaojian (五寮尖), one of northern Taiwan’s most difficult hikes, has always been loved by hikers for some great weekend exercise. I’ve been hiking the trail for years and have become familiar with quite a few of the older hikers who hike it every weekend. The trail was always relatively quiet and could easily be completed without many people getting your way. 

Some photos on social media from some popular Instagrammers ruined that for all of us.

Today there are long lines of people on the trails with the vast majority of people completely unprepared for what awaits them. But at least they look really good while doing it, right?

It may seem like I’m complaining, but one of the great things about these travel trends is that people constantly have new places to visit and are learning more and more that they’re actually able to appreciate the beauty of their own country. On the other hand, most of the locations that go viral are ever really able to handle the sudden influx of thousands of people looking to get their photos. 

Considering mountain trails have been one of the most popular trends in domestic travel, the government has sought to capitalize on that by improving the infrastructure in these areas as well as adding new attractions and destinations to visit.

One area where this has been most obvious has been with the not-so-insignificant number of suspension bridges being constructed in the mountains over the past few years. 

Honestly, it’s one of those trends that I often find myself scratching my head at, but hey, these bridges are pretty cool and they’re great for attracting people and (more importantly) keeping things viral, so why not? 

Take the recently completed “Shan-Chuan Glass Suspension Bridge” (山川琉璃吊橋) in southern Taiwan’s Pingtung County (屏東縣), which is one of the longest and highest pedestrian bridges of its kind in Taiwan. Or how about the Fengbin Skywalk (豐濱天空步道) at Hualien’s Qingshui Cliffs or the Skywalk (天空步道) at Taoyuan’s Xiaowulai Waterfall - all of which have glass floors and were constructed at great cost - but are extremely popular with tourists. 

Link: “Top Ten Most Beautiful Suspension Bridges” 十大絕美吊橋 (健行筆記)

The not-so-open Xikou Suspension Bridge…

Even though I’m not personally too crazy about all these bridges being constructed in the mountains, with all the COVID-19 stuff going on and not much to do, I decided to take a ride into the mountains of Taoyuan earlier this year to check out the newly constructed and highly-acclaimed Xikou Suspension Bridge (新溪口吊橋). 

I figured that if I visited on an early weekday morning that I could avoid most of the insta-crowd and be able to get some nice photos to do a quick write-up about the 303 meter-long bridge that connects Jiaobanshan (角板山) on one side of the Dahan River (大漢溪) to the Xikou Tribe (溪口部落) on the other. 

Unfortunately when I arrived at the bridge there was a notice posted nearby that stated that it was closed from February 3rd, 2020 to June 30th, 2020. 

Unimpressed, I approached the bridge and took a few photos anyway and then decided to make my way back down towards Daxi (大溪) where I’d have to come up with some other plans for the day. 

Fortunately as I made my way back to the Northern Cross-island highway (北橫公路), I remembered that there was another, historic suspension bridge in the area and decided to stop by to get some photos of it. 

So, instead of introducing the Xikou Suspension Bridge, I’ll be introducing what I think is actually a prettier (albeit less popular) bridge, the Yixing Suspension Bridge (義興吊橋) which connects Luofu Village (羅浮村) to the network of hiking trails at Xiaowulai across the river. 

Yixing Suspension Bridge 

Two of the most popular locally made films in recent years were the Seediq Bale (賽德克巴萊) films that told the story of the Wushe Incident (霧社事件) and the valiant struggle of one of Taiwan’s indigenous groups against the Japanese Colonialists. 

The second of the two-part film series was titled “The Rainbow Bridge” (彩虹橋) which alludes to the Seediq (賽德克) peoples legend that when they pass away they cross a “rainbow bridge” into the afterworld.

Since those movies came out, it seems like almost every bridge in the mountains, especially those in areas where indigenous tribes are located have been randomly nicknamed the “Rainbow Bridge” or the “Seediq Bale Bridge” and this one is no different. 

In the government’s own tourist info about Yixing Bridge, they continue this trend by talking about the film and the Rainbow Bridge in their introduction. 

Link: 義興吊橋 (Taoyuan Travel)

Is that necessary? I don’t know. It does give people a point of reference though. 

As I mentioned above, there have been quite a few suspension bridges constructed in the mountains around Taiwan in recent years (possibly thanks to the films), but this bridge isn’t one of them. 

Luofu Village’s Yixing Bridge was constructed in 1966 (民國55年) for the purpose of transporting water to the small community living on the mountain across the Dahan River. Originally only able to accommodate about ten people at once, the bridge was renovated and strengthened in 2013 (民國103年) and is now able to accommodate at least a hundred people at once. 

The bridge is about two hundred meters long and about seventy meters above the (sometimes) raging Dahan River (大漢溪), the source of water that ends up in the Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫) which provides much of the water for Northern Taiwan. The water below is emerald green and if you take some time to look down you should be able to see some local birds along the riverbank as well as fish swimming about. 

Taking into consideration that this is a suspension bridge, when you walk on it, it will rock back and forth. If you’re afraid of heights, you’ll find to hold on to the rails on the sides to make sure that you feel comfortable. 

From the highway, the bridge is a short walk down a set of stairs that should take you less than five minutes. Once you cross the bridge, you have the option of continuing along some of the hiking trails on the other side or heading back the way you came to move on to your next destination.

If you visit in April and May, you’ll also be treated to a display of Tung Blossoms (油桐花) on both sides of the river, which is an added bonus. 

Getting There

 

Address: 桃園市復興區羅浮(羅馬公路桃118線起點)

The Yixing Suspension Bridge is located within Luofu Village (羅浮村) in Taoyuan’s Fuxing Township (復興鄉). Situated along the picturesque Northern Cross-Island highway (北橫公路), otherwise known as the #7 highway, the suspension bridge is close to the Xiaowulai Scenic Area and a short distance from the beautiful Luofu Bridge (羅浮橋). 

If you have your own means of transportation, getting to the bridge isn’t all that difficult as it is located along the highway with parking spots nearby. All you’ll have to do is input the address provided above into your GPS and you’ll easily find your way. 

If you’re relying on public transportation however, the situation becomes a little more difficult as the area is remote and bus service isn’t that frequent. Still, its not impossible, so if you want to take a bus to the area, you have the following options: 

From Taoyuan Bus Station: 

From Zhongli Bus Station: 

From Daxi Bus Station: 

A word of warning though, even though there are several bus routes that go up and down the mountain between Taoyuan, Zhongli and Daxi and Upper Baling, they aren’t all that frequent, so you’ll want to play close attention to the time of your bus and make sure that you don’t get stranded if you are taking the public transportation option. 

If you’re looking for a suspension bridge to check out, but you’re a bit of a misanthrope like me, you’ll probably love this one. There’s no admission fee and even on weekends its not likely that you’ll come across very many people checking it out, especially since it is less than a ten minute drive from the much larger and (supposedly) more beautiful Xikou Suspension Bridge. 

If your plan is to check out Xiaowulai, you could easily make a day trip out of the area by checking out the various waterfalls and hiking the trails that will eventually bring you to this bridge. If you’re not really into hiking though and just want to check out the suspension bridge, don’t worry - there is so much to do in this area of Taoyuan that you’ll easily be able to fill your day. 

Further up the highway of course is the beautiful Lala Mountain Nature Reserve (拉拉山), Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Area (東眼山), the historic Jiaobanshan villa (角板山), Tiemu Waterfall (鐵木瀑布), Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞), TUBA Church (基國派老教堂), Daxi Tea Factory (大溪老茶廠), Cihu Mausoleum and lots more. 

Link: Taoyuan Blogs (桃園)

If anyone has ever told you that there isn’t anything to do in Taoyuan, I’m sorry to say that they’re full of shit - Taoyuan is awesome!  


Cherry Blossoms at Lala Mountain (拉拉山櫻花)

It goes without saying that “Hanami” (花見), or ‘flower viewing’ is a popular tradition with the people of Taiwan. One of the cultural leftovers from the Japanese Colonial Era, the Taiwanese people’s appreciation for the natural environment is something that is quite inspiring.

These days wherever you go in Taiwan, you’ll be sure to find advertisements notifying locals and tourists alike about all of the various flower festivals that are taking place around the country at any given time. The funny thing is that you’re probably thinking that these festivals would be a major attraction only for senior citizens, but in recent years it has transcended the generation gap you’ll be sure to see people of all ages enjoying the natural beauty that this country has to offer.

If you don’t believe me, I dare you to search #Taiwan on Instagram.

Personally, I was never really all that interested in flowers when I lived in Canada - We really only have two seasons for anything to grow, and it wasn’t likely that I’d be using my precious time during the summer to go check out some flowers.

That being said, Canadians (admittedly) aren’t nearly as skilled when it comes to the cultivation, handling or arrangement of flowers as the people of Taiwan are.

While I’m admitting things, I’ll also admit that since my arrival in Taiwan, I’ve become a bit of a convert - The local flower-viewing tradition is something that has certainly grown on me over the years and I often get mixed in with he masses of people traveling around the country to take part in these festivals.

Even though there are numerous blooming seasons and flower-related festivals that have become quite popular, the unparalleled king of them all, attracts the most attention, and causes the most traffic jams is none other than the Cherry Blossom season in the early months of the New Year. 

If you haven’t already, I recommend checking out my guide to Taiwan’s Cherry Blossoms to learn more about the blossoms, the various species and more importantly where to find them: 

Link: Taiwan Sakura Guide (臺灣櫻花地圖)

This year, I had it all planned out, I would visit a few of the regular spots to check out the Cherry Blossoms, but I wouldn’t be going too out of my way to check them out as I’d be visiting Kyoto to check out the Japanese blossoms in full bloom while also checking out a bunch of Shinto Shrines.

Imagine my excitement.  

Unfortunately a little thing called the Coronavirus started spreading throughout the world like a wildfire becoming a global pandemic and due to a lack of preparation and response, Japan has become one of the hardest hit countries.

So, unfortunately my trip to Kyoto has been put on hold for a little while. 

I’ll probably still end up going sometime this year, if the epidemic cools off, but it looks like I won’t be there in time to enjoy the cherry blossoms. 

In need of a back up plan, I decided to take a day-trip to the mountains on the famed Northern Cross-Country Highway (北部橫貫公路) to check out what has become Taoyuan’s, and one of Taiwan’s most popular destinations for cherry blossom-viewing. 

The thing about cherry blossoms is that you can find trees growing almost everywhere in Taiwan, but if you want to see them growing in large quantities, you’re going to have to make an effort.

This means that popular destinations like Wuling Farm (武陵農場), Alishan (阿里山) and Yangmingshan (陽明山) are always jam-packed when the blossoms are in bloom.

This year, I waited until the blossoms were in full bloom and rented a car to head up to Taoyuan’s beautiful Lala Mountain (拉拉山), home to the famed “Loving Farm” (恩愛農場).

The farm, which is actually a large fruit ranch and a really nice place to rent a cabin for the weekend, has become one of the most popular blossom viewing areas and an Instagram hot-spot in recent years. 

Travelling on a weekday, I figured that I’d be able to easily sneak in to the farm, take some photos and then head over to some of the hiking trails nearby to check out some of the famed ‘divine trees’ (神木).

Unfortunately those plans turned out to be a bit too ambitious as even on a weekday, the cherry blossom-craze was in full effect and there was a two hour wait for cars to get up to the farm. 

It wasn’t a complete loss though, the farm was absolutely beautiful and was home to probably one of the largest concentrations of cherry blossoms that I’ve seen in Taiwan. 

Loving Farm (恩愛農場)

Lala Mountain’s “Loving Farm” is currently high atop the list of places to visit in Taiwan if you’re looking to check out cherry blossoms. Even though you have to make a special effort to get to the farm, it is currently considered to be one of the top ten places to visit by local guides. 

Link: 台灣TOP10賞櫻景點

The reason for this is that while you can easily find the dark-pink Taiwanese Mountain Sakura (山櫻花) growing in parks all over the country, the highly prized light-pink variety of Fuji Cherries (富士櫻) are few and far between, and rarely grow in abundance anywhere like they do at this farm. 

As I mentioned in the Sakura Guide linked above, there are around two dozen species of cherry blossoms in Taiwan, but the ones that are loved the most are those that appear to be the most similar to the ones most commonly found in Japan, such as Yoshino Cherries (吉野櫻).

This doesn’t mean people look down on the more common blossoms, but they can easily enjoy them as they grow throughout the cities and towns of the country.

Links: Sakura At Tian-Yuan Temple (天元宮吉野櫻) | Taiwan Cherry Blossoms (台灣山櫻花)

Still, every year when spring rolls around, thousands of people in Taiwan make the special effort to fly to Japan for the sole purpose of checking out the blossoms. With so many people travelling at this time of the year, getting time off work at this time can understandably be a bit difficult, so for the millions of others in Taiwan, it is the time of the year when they load the family into the car and take off to the mountains. 

Even though Taiwan is home to several species of cherry, most of them tend to be quite different than what you’d typically find in Japan, as they are the result of hybridization. With that in mind, it shouldn’t surprise you to learn that even though everyone is travelling to the farm to check out the beautiful “Fuji Cherry” (富士櫻), they’re not actually a cherry that you’ll find in Japan. 

In fact, Taiwan’s “Fuji Cherry” is a hybrid of the Taiwanese Mountain Cherry and the Japanese Yamazakura (山櫻花). I should probably also mention that you can also find a “Fuji Cherry” (Prunus incisa) in Japan, but the tree here in Taiwan is completely different. That being said, this tree is similar to quite a few species in Japan and its light-pink petals look like those of the popular Yoshino Cherry.

The Fuji Cherry however isn’t the only species of cherry blossom that you’ll come across at the Loving Farm - They also feature the dark-pink Taiwanese Mountain Cherry and the light-pink “Thousand-Island Cherry” (千島櫻), a variant of the Takanezakura (高嶺櫻), or the “Japanese Alpine Cherry”, in addition to one of the largest orchards of Peach Blossoms in Taiwan.

On that note, its probably a good time to mention that the ‘farm’ part of the ‘Loving Farm’ refers to one of the largest peach orchards in Taiwan - Taoyuan’s Lala Mountain is famed for its cultivation of peaches and this farm alone is home to almost two-thousand trees. While the annual cherry blossom season takes place between February and March, the farm is also a busy place from March to April when the Peach Blossoms (桃花) start blooming in preparation for the yearly harvest. The blossoms, which are a beautiful pink colour are one of the areas main attractions and the peaches help to drive the local economy.

If you’re in Taiwan and you haven’t had a Lalashan peach, you haven’t even lived.

Situated at an elevation of about 1600 meters above sea, the farm offers beautiful 180 degree views of the Central Mountain Range (中央山脈) and when the weather is good you can see as far as Snow Mountain (雪山) and the Daba Peaks (大霸尖山). 

It goes without saying that the farm is busiest in the early months of the year with the cherry and peach blossoming seasons, but it is a popular place year-round and also offers guests the opportunity to stay for a few nights in the beautiful, newly constructed log cabins at their home stay.

So if you’re visiting from out of town, you may want to just consider staying the night and enjoying a relaxing evening breathing the fresh mountain air.

Link: Staying at Loving Farm (拉拉山。恩愛農場住宿)

Getting There

 

Address: #143 Zhongxin Road, Fuxing District, Taoyuan City (桃園市復興區華陵里上巴陵中心路143號)

How is one to get to Lala Mountain and the Loving Farm? Well, that’s an excellent question. 

If you plan on visiting this farm, you’re going to need your own means of transportation.

So, if you or your friends have access to a car or a scooter, that’s probably your best bet. Its not impossible to get there using public transportation, but there’s no way in hell that I’d ever take a bus up there. I’m not that brave.

The farm is located in Upper Baling (上巴陵) within the Lalashan Forest Recreation Area (拉拉山森林遊樂區). To get there you’ll have to make use of Highway 7 (台7線), otherwise known as the Northern Cross Highway (北橫公路), that takes you from Taoyuan’s Daxi District (大溪區) to Yilan’s Datong Township (大同鄉) on the east coast. Whether your start your trip across the Northern Cross Highway on the Taoyuan side or the Yilan side is completely up to you.

Once you’ve arrived at the entrance to the Lala Mountain Forest Recreation Area, you’ll have to turn off the highway and make your way further up the mountain to the Atayal (泰雅族) village of Upper Baling.

The small mountainous village is a pretty cool place to visit and is a welcome stop after you’ve spent a few hours sitting in the car or on the bus. There is a 7-11 and a couple of local restaurants serving up Atayal cuisine, so if you’ve got some time, I recommend stopping by.

Sunset over the Central Mountain Range

Even though I’m not brave enough to take public transportation to the area, you might be, so here’s where I’ll mention that the public transportation ‘option’ is Bus #5301 that starts at the Zhongli Bus Terminal (中壢客運站).

The bus will take you all the way to Upper Baling (and beyond) but doesn’t come that frequently, so you’ll have to be really careful if you choose this option as you don’t want to get stuck in the mountains at night.

Although I’m sure if you were walking down the highway, someone would pick you up and help you out.

Once you’ve arrived at the Upper Baling stop, all you’ll have to do is walk a couple of kilometres up the mountain to the farm - Its a long walk though, so prepare yourself! 

Link: Zhongli Bus #5301 (中壢客運5301)

If you’re driving, once you arrive at Upper Baling, it’s likely that you’ll notice that they’ll have traffic controls in effect. So you’ll have to get yourself into a queue of cars that are waiting to head up the small road to the Loving Farm.

The thing about the farm is that there is only space for about one hundred cars to park and the road that brings you there is quite narrow, so the traffic controls have been put in place to ensure that tourists can get there safely.

If you are visiting at a time when the farm is busy, you’ll be placed in a queue of cars along Baling Road with only about 20-50 cars permitted to go up the mountain every hour. Once you’re up the mountain, you’ll also have to pay close attention to the announcer in the parking lot who will let everyone know when cars are permitted to head down the mountain, usually intervals of fifty minutes. 

If you find yourself waiting in the queue, just be patient, they are quite efficient at getting people up and down the mountain in a timely and safe manner. Make sure to bring some good music, snacks and drinks for the car though.

Once you’ve arrived at the farm, there will be attendants at the entrance of the parking lot who will let you know where to park and ask for a $100NT admission fee (per person), which is pretty cheap considering the amount of staff they have to employ to make sure traffic is smooth. 

For more information, check the Loving Farm Facebook Page:

Link: Loving Farm (恩愛農場)  

Getting to Lala Mountain isn’t the easiest of tasks - its a long drive up the highway.

The farm also tends to be quite busy, so you’ll have to prepare yourself for a long drive and a possible wait. Once you’ve arrived though, you’ll find that it was all worth it as the farm is absolutely beautiful when the blossoms are in full bloom and you’ll undoubtedly leave with several hundred photos - or several thousand if you’re like me!

Remember, the blossoming period for the blossoms is from late February to mid-March, so if you’re in Taiwan at this time of the year, try your best to make your way to the farm, or any of the popular sakura viewing areas around the country to enjoy the beautiful cherry blossoms!


Xianguang Second Village (憲光二村)

One of the most unfortunate aspects of Taiwan’s modern history is that even though it is (for the most part) well-recorded, it hasn’t been very well preserved. What I mean by this is that while history books have lots of information, they mostly just feature diagrams instead of photos as sadly, many of the historic places of interest around the country have long since vanished.  

One of the main reasons for this lack of preservation is that ‘history’ is often dictated by those in power and when you’ve been colonized as many times as Taiwan has, it shouldn’t really be surprising that much of what once existed has already been torn down, most often to better suit the interests of those in charge.

Its all too easy to make scapegoats of the Japanese and the Chinese Nationalists for the damage they caused, but even today, decades after the country has transformed into one of the most stable democracies in Asia, places of historic value continue to disappear, now though, its due to modern development. 

Such is the case that it doesn’t particularly matter if something was constructed by the Spanish, the Dutch, the Qing, the Japanese or the Chinese Nationalists - its open season if its considered to be in the way.

Fortunately there are vocal civic groups all over the country that are determined to protect Taiwan’s cultural and historic assets by any means necessary - This doesn’t mean that they always win, but the work these groups are doing now is helping to preserve important pieces of Taiwan’s history for future generations.

The government has likewise started taking a more proactive approach to the preservation of (some of) Taiwan’s historic properties. In recent years a considerable amount of public funds have been allocated for the restoration and repair of many of these places of interest. Sadly though, these projects don’t seem to be funded equally with poorer areas having a hard time keeping up.  

If you’ve been around for the past few years, you might have noticed that many former buildings constructed during the Japanese Colonial Era have been (or are in the process of being) restored and likewise several of Taiwan’s former Military Dependents Villages have been brought back to life with initiatives to convert them into tourist attractions. 

Links: Mazu New Village (馬祖新村) | Rainbow Village (彩虹村) 

I may be somewhat partial, but as far as I’m concerned, there are few places in Taiwan where those efforts have been more obvious than here in Taoyuan. The local government has spent a considerable amount of money renovating and restoring buildings of historic and cultural value.

Taoyuan, which has a reputation as an industrial area, was actually at one time better known for its high concentration of these ‘Military Villages’ and was home to a large portion of Taiwan’s new immigrant population when the Chinese Nationalists fled here after 1949. Only a handful of these villages currently remain though, so the fact that a ‘rich’ area of Taiwan has only committed to saving three of these villages goes to show how dire the situation can be with places of historic significance.

The three military villages that were lucky enough to be preserved in Taoyuan include Mazu New Village (馬祖新村) in Zhongli, Dawu New Village (大武新村) in Daxi, and Xianguang Second Village (憲光二村) in Guishan. Each of which is currently run under the ‘Military Village Iron Triangle’ project funded by the city government. So far though, only Mazu New Village has been completely restored and reopened the public while the other two are currently undergoing restoration with their official opening dates to be determined within the next few years. 

Link: The Taoyuan ‘Military Village Iron Triangle’ (桃園眷村鐵三角)

The topic of today’s blog post is Guishan’s Xianguang Second Village, which is located a short distance from the downtown core of Taoyuan District. The restoration project on the village started around the end of 2019, but in the few years prior to that, it was opened to the public on a trial basis a few days a week to allow people to check out what the village looked like and learn about its history.

That being said, in its current state there really isn’t much for most visitors in terms of things to see, learn or enjoy - So if you live outside out Taoyuan, I don’t think a visit to the village is worth a day trip.

If you’re here because you saw a cool-looking photo on Instagram, you might want to reconsider and wait until it officially opens within the next year or two. 

You probably know that I’m a bit weird by now though, so I made sure to visit the village a couple of times before the restoration project started. The reason for this was not because I wanted some cool instagram photos, but because I wanted to document the condition of the village before construction workers started tearing it apart.

The photos I’m sharing today in this post are meant to show the village in its abandoned condition before it reopens, which means that you can expect an update to this post a few years from now when it reopens to the public looking new and shiny. 

Before we talk about the village though, lets take a minute to talk about what Military Villages are:

Military Villages (眷村)

When the Chinese Nationalists retreated to Taiwan at the end of the Chinese Civil War (國共內戰) they brought with them over two million refugees, who were in quick need of places to stay.

Most of the people who were able to make the journey from China could only do so because they were part of the social elite or members of the Republic of China Armed Forces.

The new arrivals learned quickly that the government clearly wasn’t prepared to house them, so plans were made to hastily construct shoddy villages which would serve the purpose of 'temporarily' housing them until they could triumphantly return to their homeland when the communists were defeated.

Or so was the plan..  

The villages which are known as Military Dependents' villages (眷村) were constructed all over Taiwan in the 1940s and 1950s for members of the military and their families.

The Nationalist dream was that they would only retreat to Taiwan and ‘regroup’ for a short time in order to retake China from the communists. Unfortunately that would never come to pass and these so-called 'temporary' villages became 'permanent' settlements for the less privileged of those refugees.

The villages though ended up becoming important centres for the preservation of traditional Chinese culture, art, literature and cuisine and many of Taiwan’s older generation grew up in them.

Despite the refugees receiving preferential treatment from the government, the homes were sloppily put together and were property of the state, which meant that the tenants had no possibility of land ownership.

Over the years the tenants did their best to improve their living situations but as Taiwan's economic miracle was taking place, villages started to become abandoned as people sought a better, more comfortable life elsewhere.

Link: Military Dependents’ Villages (Wiki) | Military Villages (Spectral Codex)

As more and more of the homes were abandoned and left to the elements, the conditions at these villages became an contentious issue of public debate as it seemed that those who remained were living in government-owned slums. The government thus decided to improve the public-housing situation and tear down the majority of the villages, which would be replaced with modern high-rise apartments.

In recent years though, the people of Taiwan have taken interest in the preservation of the remaining villages and several civil groups have been set up to protect them. These groups have become somewhat of a thorn in the side of the government and (in some cases) the public pressure they have applied has forced the government to come up with alternative plans.

Unfortunately, the future of many of Taiwan’s remaining Military Communities is still undecided - with almost 90% of them having already become a faded memory. Its important that the few that remain are preserved to ensure that these important pieces of Taiwan’s history are preserved for the enjoyment of future generations. 

Xianguang Second Village (憲光二村) 

Xianguang Second Village was constructed in 1968 (民國57年) and was the only Military Dependents Village in Taoyuan that was built solely for the housing of the Military Police (憲兵).

  • Note: The first character in “憲兵” is “xiàn” (憲) which is where the name for this village comes from.  Military Police - “憲兵” (xiàn bīng). Xianguang - “憲光” (xiàn guāng)

When the initial construction was complete, the village was home to about fourteen narrow rows of homes that were interconnected with each other housing over 100 families. 

The homes were constructed in the typical ‘military village’ style that was common throughout Taiwan, which meant that the space inside was limited and that families lived together in close quarters with little to no privacy.  

Later in 1973 (民國62年), a block of four story high rise apartments was added and provided space space for an additional 40 families. The fact that this village showcases both the basic single-floor cramped ‘Military Village’ style of architectural design with the addition of a more modern style, allows it to stand out from the others in terms of what you’ll see when you visit.

Layout of the village from the official website

Layout of the village from the official website

As was the case with pretty much every other military village constructed around the country, people eventually got tired of living in such small (and poorly constructed) residences that they eventually opted to instead make the most of the Taiwanese economic miracle and purchase their own homes elsewhere. 

In 2006, after all of the residents of Xianguang Second Village had already vacated the village, the government designated it as a historic property and started coming up with plans to preserve the site for future use and its inclusion into Taoyuan’s Military Village culture network. 

In the thirteen years since, not much has happened at the village, but as I mentioned above, the restoration project to bring the village back to life has only just started, so it looks like the future of this quaint little village is looking quite promising and will be an attractive destination in the near future!  

Visiting the Village and Future Plans

Xianguang Second Village opened to the public a few years ago, under the Taoyuan City Government’s “Military Village Culture” initiative but when it first opened, public visits were limited to only two days a week and most of the village was off-limits. In the few years since, they gradually increased the amount of days that people could visit as well as planning a number of activities in order to attract more visitors.

I visited a few years ago when the village first opened to the public and unfortunately arrived only about an hour before they were about to close. I figured that would be enough time to check it out, but when the staff saw me wandering around they decided to approach me and ask if I needed help or a free tour.

I ended up having a long conversation with the friendly ladies who work there but unfortunately that didn’t leave me with much time to take photos as they chatted me up until closing time. 

Unlike Mazu New Village (馬祖新村) in nearby Zhongli, this village has yet to receive much attention in terms of fixing it up to make it look nice or giving it much promotion. So when people visit, especially foreigners, the staff get really excited.

As part of the Taoyuan City Government’s ‘Military Village Iron Triangle’ (桃園眷村鐵三角) mentioned above, it seems like this particular village had to wait in line (for funding) behind the renovation projects on Mazu New Village and Dawu New Village before it got its turn.

A typical military village style living room.

In November 2019, the long-planned three-year renewal project finally started at the village, which will see many of the buildings within completely renovated and transformed into a museum. From what I’ve read, the museum will be dedicated to ‘immigration’ in addition to being used as a space for various events, exhibitions and learning about the history of Taiwan’s Military Villages.

Knowing that the village would undergo this period of renewal, I thought it was best to make an effort to visit and get photos of what the village looked like before work started. Given that I have an interest in urban exploration and exploring places with historic value, it was nice to be able to freely explore the abandoned military village to see what the homes were like in their dilapidated and lived-in states.

I also knew from experience with the Mazu Village in Zhongli that once renovations started, it would difficult to gain access to any of the older buildings. 

Suffice to say when it comes to the future plans, all that has been mentioned is that the military village is slated to will become the ‘Xianguang Second Village Immigration Museum’ (憲光二村移民博物館) around 2022 and will focus on the modern history of immigration in Taiwan, especially with respect to all of the military villages in Taoyuan and the diverse ethnic groups of refugees who came here when the Nationalists lost the Chinese Civil War. 

I may seem like a broken record by now, but I’m guessing that the situation will be similar to what happened at Mazu New Village with the majority of the village being beautifully renovated and opened to the public with coffee shops, art displays and weekend activities on-site.

Only one of the buildings ended up being reserved to become the Taoyuan Arts Cinema (桃園光影電影館), so if I’m right, the actual ‘Immigration Museum’ will probably just be a permanent exhibition in one of the buildings while all of the others will be opened for tourism or commercial activities.  

Whatever the future holds, I hope that once the renovation project is completed and the village is reopened that whatever they plan to do with the space is well thought out and that it will be put to good use.

As it is, sections of the village will remain open to the public as the renovation project is underway but it should be obvious that if you plan on visiting before the official re-opening, you’ll be going at a time when there will be quite a bit of construction work going on at the same time. 

Getting There 

 

Address: Lane 138, Datong Road, Guishan District, Taoyuan City. (桃園市龜山區大同路138巷) 

Xianguang Second Village is located just outside of Taoyuan and is a short distance from the train station - It is a bit of a distance though, so if you’re heading into town and you don’t have a car or scooter, you’ll probably want to take some form of public transportation to get there, instead of walking. 

Taking a bus is quite simple, from Taoyuan Train Station (桃園車站) walk to the Tonlin Department Store (統領百貨) where you’ll find a bunch of bus stops to the right of the main entrance. From there get on Bus #137, which (should) come every fifteen to twenty minutes. You’ll want to stay on the bus until you reach the Datong Bus Stop (大同路口) where you’ll get off and walk down the hill to the village.

You could also easily take a YouBike from the Taoyuan Train Station and park it at the village when you get there, or simply returning it at one of the Youbike stations nearby.

The village is open to the public every week from Wednesday to Saturday (closed on Sundays / Mondays and Tuesdays) from 9:00 - 12:00 and 1:00 - 5:30. 

I would caution you though that in my experience, the hours of operation are quite fickle and once they start the renovation project, it is likely going to much more difficult to visit the village.

If you plan to visit Taoyuan just to check out this village, I highly recommend that you call first to confirm whether or not the village is actually even open to save yourself from disappointment. 

Phone number: 03-319-7132

Links: 桃園眷村鐵三角憲光二村 (Chinese-language only)

While you’re in the area, I also recommend taking some time to visit the Taoyuan Confucius Temple (桃園孔廟), Taoyuan Shinto Shrine (桃園神社) and exploring the Tiger Head Mountain (虎頭山) area which are all a short distance away from the village

The popularity in recent years for the renewal of historic properties like Huashan (華山), Songshan Tobacco Factory (松菸) and Mazu New Village (馬祖新村) as new cultural villages for art and design has most certainly been a welcome turn of events.

The problem though is that when the rebranding of these villages isn’t well thought out, it makes for a situation where the staff struggle to attract visitors. Over the past couple of years I’ve visited this village on a few different occasions and got the feeling each time that the staff are dedicated to the promotion of the village and its future and (even though they were a bit chatty), they’re always excited to have guests. 

Keeping in mind that the village is currently undergoing a renovation process similar to what happened at Mazu Village in Zhongli, I expect that some of these issues will be resolved when the village officially reopens in the next few years.

When it does reopen, I hope that I’ll be able to visit again to get photos of the renovated buildings and how they’ve gone about making it more attractive for visitors.