Taoyuan

Zhongli Elementary Teachers Dorms (壢小故事森林)

Having recently celebrated the 120th anniversary of its founding, Zhongli Elementary School finds itself on a very exclusive list of educational institutions in Taiwan with such a long and storied history. 

Plans for the construction of “Zhongli Public School” (中壢公學校) started in 1898 (明治31年), shortly after the Japanese took control of Taiwan. The school opened two years later in 1900 and became one of Taoyuan’s (and Northern Taiwan’s) first public educational institutions. 

To celebrate the 120 year anniversary of the school, festivities were held throughout the year and the school announced plans for some restoration projects that would modernize and beautify the campus. 

To coincide with the anniversary, the Taoyuan City Government started a restoration project on the historic teachers dormitories that were once used by the staff at the school during the Japanese Colonial era.

The plan was to have them ready to reopen to the public in conjunction with the celebrations for the school’s milestone anniversary. 

With such a long and storied history, you’d think that finding information about the school would be pretty easy, but that’s not actually the case.

From what little I’ve found from the school’s own literature is that “Zhongli Public School” opened in 1900 and as the number of students steadily increased over the years, several “branch” schools had to be constructed nearby communities - all of which still exist today.

In total, five branch schools were constructed around town, which have all since changed their names and are now known as Chung-Ping Elementary (中平國小), Hsin-Ming Elementary (新明國小), Hsin-Jie Elementary (新街國小), Longgang Elementary (龍岡國小) and Nan-Shih Elementary (南勢國小). 

If you’ve lived in the area as long as I have then you’re probably aware that these schools (in most cases) were the basis for the formation of a community that used the same name as the school.

Most notably “Hsin-Ming Elementary” is known for its popular neighbour, the Zhongli Night Market (新明夜市), which is actually named “Hsin-Ming Night Market” and the Hsin-Ming Traditional Market, which is home to two of the city’s most famous restaurants, Hsin-Ming Beef Noodles (新明牛肉麵) and Yong-Chuan Beef Noodles (永川牛肉麵). 

In the decades since the colonial era ended, the school has changed its name a few times, but no matter what it is called, it is still the first educational institution opened to the public and is an important part of the local history.  

Subtle name changes

  • 1947 (民國36年) - 中壢國民學校

  • 1968 (民國57年) - 中壢國民小學

  • 2014 (民國103年) - 桃園市中壢區中壢國民小學

The topic today however isn’t really about the school itself, but the Japanese-style teachers dormitories that were constructed nearby. 

As I’ve already mentioned, the growing number of students wanting to take part in the public education system, it became necessary to construct branch schools as well as homes for the staff working at the schools to live. 

Constructing “dormitories” (員工宿舍) for employees was a service that the Japanese Colonial Powers provided, especially for civil servants and those working within important industries.

There would have been dormitories that housed police, government officials, teachers, principals, railway workers and many of the engineers who came to Taiwan to help develop the island. 

Today, all over Taiwan many of these dorms are being restored and reopened to the public as tourist destinations in an attempt to help people learn more about an important part of Taiwan’s history.

So lets take a look at the newly reopened Zhongli Elementary School teachers dormitories, which have been (randomly) renamed the “Zhongli Forest Story House” (壢小故事森林). 

Zhongli Elementary Teachers Dorms (中壢國小日式宿) 

You might think that like most school dorms that the teachers dorms would have been constructed somewhere on campus, but in order to provide the teaching staff with a bit of privacy, they were constructed on a nice plot of tree-covered land nearby. 

Constructed in 1917 (大正6年), the three Japanese-style homes are on a plot of land that is about 871 square meters large and would have provided staff with easy access to the school as well as the nearby train station and whatever amenities would have been available in the downtown area at that time. 

Interestingly, from a design perspective, even though there are three buildings, each of them was constructed somewhat differently as they all served different functions. One of them was a typical Japanese style family home, while the other two were more dorm-like in their set-up.

The two single-floor buildings, which are referred to as “Building A” (A棟) and “Building B” (B棟) are typical Japanese-style homes that were constructed with Taiwanese Cypress (台灣檜木) and have beautiful black Kyoto-style roof tiles (黑瓦). 

Building C” (C棟) on the other hand is a bit different from the other two and even though it maintains aspects of Japanese architectural design, it was constructed with brick, has two floors, a nice patio space on the second level and a roof that was constructed using the same type of red tiles (閩式紅瓦) that you’ll see on many older Taiwanese buildings. 

The buildings were used by the Japanese staff of the elementary school from 1917-1945 and then afterwards became dormitories for the teaching staff hired by the new regime for the next few decades before they were more or less abandoned.

Today the dorms have been completely restored and are part of a newly established culture park known as the Zhongli Forest Story House

Now that they’re no longer dormitories, the government had to find a use for the space, so each of the buildings now serves a specific purpose. 

  1. Building A” - A棟 (沐樂居)

GTJ-2019-1031-29.jpg

“Building A” was originally constructed as a dorm that would house two families under the same roof (雙拼日式宿舍), so the interior has several rooms and two large open spaces. It would have been a space for more senior teachers who brought their family with them to Taiwan.

The building is currently used as a revolving exhibition space that is likely to focus on the history of the local area, its people, language, cultures and cuisine.

2. “Building B” - B棟 (儒林所)

“Building B” is a smaller single family dorm (單棟日式宿舍) that was likely used by the principal of the school and his or her family. The home is complete with a couple of bedrooms, an open living room, kitchen and bathroom.

The building is currently used as a fun exhibition space for children to come and learn about Taiwanese history in a fun and interesting way.

3. “Building C” - C棟 (睦森館)

Building C” is the largest of the three buildings and was the space that was offered to teachers and staff with lower seniority. The building was constructed with bricks and as I mentioned above features a red tile roof, which is uncommon for Japanese-style buildings.  The living conditions would have been what you’d expect from a typical dorm but there would have been ample space for everyone living inside. 

The building is currently used as a multi-purpose space for exhibitions, meetings, public lectures, etc. It is also home to a small cafe where you can purchase some drinks and sit inside. The second floor patio is also open for guests to walk up to get a good look at the beautiful red tiles on the roof of the building as well as the exterior of the other two smaller buildings. 

During the week, the space can be a little quiet, but on the weekends there are always events taking place similar to weekend markets with hip vendors setting up mobile coffee shops with others offering a variety of foods. If you visit on the weekend, you should probably expect that there will be quite a few people and the opportunities for photos probably won’t be so good. 

Getting There

 

Address: #52 Bo-ai Road, Zhongli District, Taoyuan City (桃園市中壢區博愛路52號)

The Zhongli Forest Story House is located within the downtown core of the city and is easily walkable from the train station (中壢車站) or the inter-city bus terminal (中壢客運站).

If you’re in town, you can easily grab a Youbike and make your way to the dorms while also checking out many of the other historic destinations within the area.

Located directly across the street from Zhongli Elementary School (中壢國小) and a short walk from the Zhongli Police Dorms (壢景町), the Zhongping Story House (中平故事館) and several staple local restaurants, there is quite a bit to see and do in the space of a single city block, and a five minute walk from the train station. 

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday: 10:30-7:00 

Admission: Free of Charge

If you’re feeling hungry, take it from me, there are quite a few local restaurants nearby that should satisfy your tastebuds.

  • Tseng’s Steam-Fried Buns (曾記老牌水煎包) - A short walk away from the dorms, there is always a big line for these freshly cooked buns and for good reason - they’re amazing. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區康樂路61號

#61 Kangle Road.

  • Old Alley Hakka Noodles (老巷小館) - This Hakka noodle place serves up some cheap and amazing Hakka noodle dishes with the addition of succulent plates of duck. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中正路243號 

#243 Zhongzheng Road.

  • Mama Liu’s Hakka Vegetable Buns (劉媽媽菜包店) - This take-away only store sells steaming hot sticky Hakka vegetable buns and are one of the things you absolutely have to eat if you’re in town. There are meat and vegetarian options, so make sure to let them know which type you want! 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中正路268號

#268 Zhongzheng Road.

  • Papa’s Secret Lover (阿爸的情人) - If you’re looking for some straight up amazing Hakka food, then look no further than this restaurant which has been open for half a century. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中山路401號 

#401 Zhongshan Road.

  • Yong-Chuan Beef Noodles (永川牛肉麵) - If you’re a lover of beef noodles, then this restaurant should be high on your list. Its open 24 hours for your enjoyment and no matter what time of the day you visit, its always jam packed with people slurping up the spicy noodles. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區民權路61號

#61 Minquan Road.

  • The Peanut House (張豐盛商行) - While most locals visit this historic shop for their peanut fix, tourists have been coming from all over Taiwan for a taste of their peanut-flavoured ice cream which is surprisingly amazing. If you’re in town on a hot day, you’ll definitely want to visit. 

Address: 桃園市中壢區中正路349號

#349 Zhongzheng Road.

The restoration and reopening of the Zhongli Elementary School Teachers Dorms adds yet another location to the list of places for people to visit when they come to Taoyuan. These dorms, in conjunction with the nearby police dorms show off a bit of the city’s colonial history in an area that is rightfully very focused on and proud of its Hakka history and culture. 

A visit to the teachers dorms won’t take very long and it seems like there is always something interesting going on, so if you’re planning to visit the area, you should definitely add them to your list of places to visit. 


Pigs of God 2020

Without fail, one of the busiest times on my yearly calendar is when the annual Ghost Month (中元節) rolls around, usually in the late stages of summer, or the seventh month on the lunar calendar. 

The problem I find myself faced with each and every year is that there is always so much to see and do that I need to be strategic and make sure to plan well in advance, so that I can make the most of my time. 

Even though there is so much to do, one of the events that I rarely ever miss is the annual celebrations that the local Hakka people in the community I live in put on for the Yimin Festival (義民祭). 

One of the reasons I love this festival is that it combines Hakka culture with a carnival-like atmosphere and whenever I go, I always end up running into people that I haven’t seen in years, while also enjoying some of my favourite local dishes. 

The problem with the whole thing is that there is also a dark shadow cast over the entire event thanks to the inclusion of the “Pigs of God” (神豬), a controversial element that goes hand-in-hand with the festival in the various places where it is celebrated throughout the country. 

As I’ve already mentioned a few times here on my blog, the competition is controversial because its viewed by many in contemporary society as a form of unnecessary animal cruelty which clearly violates animal abuse laws, but is supported by local temples and politicians who view it as an important cultural and religious activity.

Not to sound like a hypocrite, even though I’m philosophically opposed to the practice, I also rarely miss the chance to check it out and document it. 

So if I’m not a hypocrite what am I? A glutton for punishment? A masochist? 

I can’t really say. 

Part of me hopes that at some point in the near future all of this stuff will come to a screeching halt and the abuse of these poor animals will stop.

But on the other hand, every year I feel compelled to attend the festival to see what’s going on. 

Before I get into any of my thoughts about this years event, I think it’s important to give you a bit more information about what this event actually is. I’ll explain it briefly before, but I’m not going to copy and paste what I’ve already published, so if you’d like more in-depth information about the festival, I recommend taking a look at the links below. 

Yimin Temple | Pigs of God 2015 | Pigs of God 2016 | Pigs of God 2017

It’s also important that I provide a disclaimer before moving on: 

As you read on, there will be photos of animal sacrifices that you may-or-may-not feel comfortable looking at. There is nothing particularly gruesome about any of it, but I’m just warning you beforehand that the photos may be unsettling for some people. 


The Pigs of God (神豬/豬公)

Earlier this week, the Hakka Affairs Council, the government agency tasked with the preservation and promotion of Hakka language and culture, tweeted: “President Tsai Ying-wen attended a ceremony in observance of Hakka Yimin Festival on September 7th, a three-day event that aims to promote the spirit of Yimin, a collective phrase for Hakka Martyrs who sacrificed their lives to defend their homeland in the past. Under the collaboration between the central and local governments, Taiwan’s Hakka Yimin Festival has become one of the biggest national festivals.” 

And then without a hint of irony, Channel News Asia published a report titled: “Taiwan’s Polarising Pig Festival Draws Smaller Sacrifices” which proudly explained that this year the sacrifices were smaller and so too were the crowds who came to see them. 

So which one is closer to the truth?

Given that I’ve attended this event every year for well over a decade, I’m probably able to explain this stuff a little bit better than government propaganda or foreign news reports.

First though, I realize that few people will actually click the links I’ve provided above, so let me briefly talk about what the Yimin Festival is. 

Way back when people in China regarded Taiwan as nothing but a worthless pile of dirt, the Hakka’s were one of the first groups brave enough to immigrate to the island. 

Having settled here for hundreds of years, the Hakka people have a long and interesting history in Taiwan and are highly regarded for their loyalty, hard work and contributions to developing the country into the place we know and love today. 

That being said, life for the Hakka’s was never easy and throughout history they have constantly had to face persecution and discrimination.

Nevertheless, when duty calls, the Hakka people have always been on the front lines in order to protect their homes and families. Notably in 1786, a massive uprising against the Qing took place in central Taiwan and in order to protect their way of life, the Hakka formed a volunteer militia to help quell the uprising. 

Quickly putting together a force of over 1,300, the Hakka militia was victorious in quelling the uprising and saving their homes, but they also suffered tremendous losses. 

Due to the large number of casualties, it was decided that the dead would be buried together in a large tomb and honored as heroes, which became the foundation for “Yimin” (義民) worship and the Yimin Temple.

How do the Pigs of God factor into any of this? 

In what became a long-standing tradition, each year during the Yimin Festival, families would pool together to contribute food for a large festival. It was also decided that one of the major families would be responsible for sacrificing a pig to the ancestors as a show of respect.

Link: Hsinpu Ancestral Shrines

This rotation went on for quite some time but soon a competition (of sorts) started between families as the pigs raised for the festival started becoming larger and larger.

Ultimately the size of the pig that was offered up each year symbolized the wealth and power of a family which meant that as the years went by, the size of the pigs became a show of “face” and local power.

Today the Yimin Festival is celebrated all over Taiwan, but it is a much larger occasion in the Taoyuan, Hsinchu, Miaoli (桃竹苗) areas, which is where you’ll find the largest concentration of Hakka people in Northern Taiwan.

The majority of the festivities are held at the Baozhong Yimin Temple (褒忠義民廟) in Hsinpu (新埔), but wherever the festival takes place, the Pigs of God are also likely to make an appearance. 

Just for a bit of clarity - market sized hogs sell when they are at about 250 - 270 pounds (113-122kg).

This means that a Pig of God candidate has to grow to at least 5-6 times the size of a normal pig.  

Winning pigs in the past have reached anywhere between 800-900 kilograms, making them almost ten times the size of a normal healthy pig.

To achieve such a result, the pigs are raised for anywhere between two and four years and are constantly overfed and placed in a confined space, which ultimately forces them to become immobile.

This lifestyle is extremely unhealthy for the animals as they develop painful bed sores, suffer from organ failure, developmental deformities and various other ailments.

Adding to the problem, animal rights groups have accused farmers of force-feeding the pigs heavy-metals or stones days before the contest takes place, in order to achieve a higher final weight. 

As criticism of the competition has grown, proponents for the event have argued that there is no cruelty involved and farmers have even opened up their farms for animal rights groups to come and check out the process. They’ve also argued that once the pig is sacrificed, its meat is distributed to local charities so that there is no waste involved.

Link: What is Taiwan’s Pigs of God Weighing Contest? (EAST)  

My only question is, if the claims are true about the illnesses these poor animals suffer, how safe is the meat to actually eat? 

So, let’s talk about the 2020 Yimin festival. 

The last time I blogged about the Yimin Festival, I left feeling rather optimistic. 

Our current Mayor, Cheng Wen-tsan (鄭文燦), had just taken office with a progressive set of policies and things were looking good. The festival organizers were tasked with coming up with “environmentally friendly” ideas to slowly phase out the pigs - and the amount of pigs that were put on display was reduced.

Here’s a recap of my observations from the last time I blogged about this: 

  1. The Pigs of God this year were considerably smaller, which shows that a little more care was taken not to abuse the animals and overfeed them as much as in years past.

  2. The Taoyuan City Government promoted the usage of “Environmentally Friendly Pigs of God" (環保神豬), which were art displays made to look like pigs and constructed out of recycled products and paraded around town in the same way that the real pigs would be.

  3. The event organizers planned an alternate activity where local people as well as dignitaries as high up as President Tsai Ying-Wen would come and release water lanterns on the eve of the event.

This year, all of that progress was thrown out the window. 

There were seven Pigs of God put on display, with a total of seventeen entering the competition.

The winning pig weighed 880 kilos with the smallest being 580 kilos.

There were no “Environmentally Friendly” pigs to be seen and they went all-out with ostentatious displays of firecrackers, fireworks and pole dancers. 

And this was only at the Yimin Temple closest to where I live.

Link: The Pigs of God: Force-Fed then slaughtered for spectacle (We Animals)

There were several other temples, including one that was only a ten minute drive away, where similar events were taking place and the Pigs of God were put on display at almost all of them. 

I was hoping that the efforts being made to phase this event out would have continued, but it seems like despite people’s objections, the political clout of some of these temples far greater exceeds the calls for change and modernization. 

I’d also note that the last few times I’ve attended the festival, there were protesters who were also there trying their best to get people to pay attention to the plight of the pigs.

This year, they didn’t bother showing up. 

The fact that politicians as far up the political ladder as the President and Taoyuan’s mayor took part in the activities just goes to show that the political will to actually do something probably isn’t really there, which is unfortunate. 

The Yimin Festival continues to be a popular event and attracts crowds of thousands - I’m not sure where Channel News Asia (in the article linked above) got their numbers, but they were way off.

I haven’t seen any official figures, but from what I saw, not even a global pandemic could keep the crowds from attending this year. 

I’m sad to say that the Pigs of God aspect of this festival are going to be phased out any time soon, so I guess you’ll probably be seeing future Pigs of God posts from me in the future. 

*sigh* 


Guishan Lingyun Temple (靈雲寺哲學廟)

While on assignment at a media event late last year, I was introduced to a journalist who works for one of the worlds largest news organizations. My friend said: “This is Josh, he’s the guy that you mentioned you’ve been wanting to meet for so long” to which she replied: “So you’re the photographer who writes about temples and all that strange stuff?

Yeah, I guess that’s me. Guilty as charged. 

Over the years, I’ve tried to ensure that my website would include information about some of Taiwan’s most important tourist destinations, but I’ve also focused quite a bit on some of the quirkier sides of the country that most travel writers don’t bother with. 

With so many articles about Taiwan’s temples already published on this site, this modest little space has become one of the largest English-language resources on the subject and people seem to think I’m somewhat of a temple expert.

I apologize if I’ve fooled any of you into thinking that.  

Even though I’ve spent a considerable amount of my travels in Taiwan exploring temples, I don’t really consider myself an expert on the subject and if I were to be one, I’d probably need another twenty years of extensive travel and study to come even close to that. 

Admittedly though, I’m a bit worn out.

I don’t really get the same enjoyment from visiting and writing about temples that I used to.

This might not be something that lasts forever, but at this point, I feel like I’m only going to write about a temple if it is special or in some way peculiar.

Part of the reason for this is because writing about temples takes a considerable amount of time, thanks to all the research and translation I have to do. 

Another more nefarious reason is that places of worship in Taiwan have become a prime target for Chinese interference in Taiwan’s politics - There have been quite a few temples identified in recent years as having links to the “United Front” (統一戰線), a Chinese political warfare department that seeks to destabilize Taiwan. 

I’ve already written about one of the temples identified and have since taken that blog down. 

I refuse to help promote these temples, no matter how historic, or significant they are, if they’re going to take part in such traitorous activities.

Recently, Russel Hsiao, the Executive Director of the Global Taiwan Institute (GTI) wrote a brief about the subject in English, which has already been widely reported in the local Taiwanese media. 

Link: Political Warfare Alert: Is China Using Religious Organizations as Proxies to Funnel Political Donations and Influence in Taiwan (Global Taiwan Brief Vol 4, Issue 21)

The article sheds light on specific temples that have been identified as collaborators as well as some of the people and religious organizations that have willingly taken part in China’s interference. 

One important thing to remember is that the temples that have been identified thus far are likely only a fraction of those that are actually collaborating and that this isn’t just some minor operation to infiltrate the nation - This is something that is quite serious, and its sad to see.  

So, even though people might refer to me as the ‘Temple Guy’, I’d much prefer to be known as someone who loves Taiwan and does his best to promote this beautiful, free and democratic nation to the world.

So, unless it’s some grandiose or peculiar temple, I’m probably not going to be writing about it for the little while.   

With that in mind, the temple I’m introducing today is ironically very much a political one. 

But it’s also one of the most unique places of worship I’ve visited in Taiwan.  

Why is it so unique?

You’re just going to have to read on and find out for yourself!

Lingyun Temple (靈雲寺) 

What makes a temple strange or unique? 

For the uninitiated, Taiwan’s temples tend to be quite exotic and feature quite a few oddities.

For me though, it takes something truly out there to phase me. 

I’ve seen people in drunken trances beating themselves bloody with weapons of torture. 

I’ve seen giant “God Pigs” butchered with their carcasses spread out, painted and put on display for thousands of spectators.

These kind of things don’t really surprise me anymore. 

Walking around this temple though, amongst the collection of life-sized statues of deities from the Taoist underworld and all of the rather strange decorations on the walls and the in-your-face politics.

I was feeling a little out of place.

What if I told you that this temple is one of the few places of worship in Taiwan that is home to a statue crafted of the flesh of a deceased religious figure?

A real-life Taiwanese mummy.

To be honest, I didn’t even know about this important fact until I got back home and started doing some research about the temple.

It’s possible that part of my uneasiness about the temple while walking around was caused by this, but in fact, it was probably an accumulation of several elements that makes this temple quite unique, and also very strange. 

Lingyun Temple certainly isn’t for the faint of heart. 

It is however quite a photogenic temple.

Lord Guan guarding the window.

Constructed in 1992, Lingyun Temple is located within an industrial area of Taoyuan’s Guishan District (龜山區) on a mountain that divides Taoyuan (桃園) and New Taipei City (新北市). 

The temple is primarily dedicated to the high-ranking Taoist deity “Xuantian” (玄天上帝), who also goes by the names “Xuanwu” (玄武), “Xuandi” (玄蒂), “Zhenwu” (真武) or the “Zhenwu Emperor” (真武大帝).

Highly regarded as one of the Taoist pantheon’s most powerful deities, he is known as the “perfect warrior” and is known for his ability to control the elements as well as his magical ability. 

Worship of Xuantian is quite popular in China, Taiwan and most of South East Asia and is also ubiquitous with the Chinese diaspora.

Its safe to say that anywhere you find a large population of people of Chinese ethnic descent, you’re also going to find shrines dedicated to the all-important deity. 

Link: Xuanwu (Wiki) | Origin of the Great Perfect Warrior Emperor - Xuantian (Taoist Sorcery)

Xuanwu

At this temple, they’re not really messing around with their Xuantian worship as they have a 18 meter tall wood statue of the deity surrounded by a large group of friends to keep him company. 

As is tradition with Xuantian Worship, you’ll always find his two guardians, General Wan Gong (萬公) and Wan Ma (萬馬) protecting him. Typically in a large shrine room, you’ll find both of them on either side, but in this temple you’ll find them on either side of the middle shrine instead.

One of the areas where this temple is unique is in its eccentric display of life-sized figures from Taoism and local Taiwanese Folk Religion. As you enter the shrine you are automatically met with them standing in front of you and have to navigate your way through their presence to get into to the shrine. 

Even though I know my fair share about this stuff, there were quite a few images of deities that I couldn’t recognize as the way they appear here is unlike other temples in Taiwan. 

The temple is home to large statues of the Demon King (鬼王) and his two guardians “Ox-head and Horse-face” (牛頭馬臉), Emperor Bao-Gong (包公), the Three Princes (三太子), the Four Guardian Warriors (四大金剛), the Goddess Nuwa (女媧), Lord Guan (關聖大帝), the God of Thunder (雷神) and a plethora of others. 

Likewise the exterior of the temple is home to giant bats, tigers, snakes, dragons, stone lions, and Qilin (麒麟).

There are also two odd-looking golden dudes in modern suits at the entrance and exit, which is something I don’t think I’ve ever really seen at a Taiwanese temple before. 

In most temples, there is always a reason why you’ll find certain deities or images placed in a particular locations - which is based on thousands of years of tradition.

With this temple, it kind of feels like they threw most of that tradition out the window and just randomly added a bunch of images based on how they felt rather than adhering to any sort of tradition. This might be another reason why this temple comes across as so unique - Its a wonderful hodgepodge of randomness under one roof. 

Master Kaishan (開山宗師)

While it might seem strange that you can find a “mummy” in a temple like this, its not entirely an uncommon practice in countries throughout Asia to find “Sokushinbutsu” (即身仏) or “Flesh Body Bodhisattvas” (肉身菩薩).

The practice is an ancient one that obviously isn’t as common as it used to be, but is a method of venerating a religious leader who was considered to have exceptional “power” in the dharma. 

In Thailand, these so-called mummies are put on display within temples for everyone to see.

Depending on how old they are, they tend to look exactly like they did in life.

In other countries, the mummies are regarded as relics and are often placed within a statue of their likeness to help preserve the ‘power’ in the body.

There are of course variations on how the mummification process takes place - In some cases the bodies are covered with clay or salt to help preserve them after death. In more extreme cases though, the monks take part in a method of self-mummification that involves prolonged starvation and slow self-suffocation. 

In Japan, monks would even go as far as burying themselves alive in a pine box full of salt connected to a tube of air that would allow them to breathe until they died.

This practice has since been outlawed, but mummification of Buddhist monks is a practice that continues today in certain Buddhist traditions across Asia.  

Link: Buddhist Mummies (Wiki)

In this specific case, ‘Master Kaishan’, who passed away on February 28th, 1998, spent a few months prior to his death taking part in a process similar to the one mentioned above where he only ate porridge water (粥水) and drank a local type of salty root beer (沙士) to help preserve his body.

If you live in Taiwan and haven’t tried HeySong Sarsaparilla (黑松沙士), you’re missing out.

Born in Nantou (南投) in 1920, not much is known about Hsieh Shi-de (謝石德), who would later become known as ‘Master Kaishan’. 

As is the case with cult-like religious leaders, there is conflicting information available about his life, and it’s difficult to report much in terms of facts. It appears though that the consensus was that despite a modest upbringing and a lack of a formal education, he was considered to have ‘exceptional spiritual ability’ and had full command over the tenets of Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism and local Folk Religion. 

Considering the cult of personality surrounding Master Kaishan, I’m not really going to go into much detail about his life, because truthfully, its all quite sensational and I doubt even a fraction of it is true.

Long story short, he was able to attract a significant amount of followers and that translated into a comfortable lifestyle and the ability to construct Lingyun Temple, which doubles as his final resting place.

From the literature about his life, what I will say is that two years before his death, he suddenly announced to his followers that the end of his life would be coming soon. So, in order to preserve his ‘spiritual power’ for later generations of his followers, he started preparing for the process of preserving him body. 

Likewise he issued an order to his followers to construct a “Shou Grave” (壽墳), a funeral pyre of sorts, which he would use to convert into a throne for his body after it became a ‘Golden Bodhisattva’ (金剛舍利).

Today, Master Kaishan sits directly in the middle of the shrine room of Lingyun Temple on that grave and is encased in glass to protect the body from the elements. 

Chiang Kai-Shek Statue (蔣中正銅像) 

One of the reasons that I was originally drawn to this temple was because I had learned that it was home to a statue of Taiwan’s former President Chiang Kai-Shek, which is used for worship. 

Even though the notorious mass-murderer is reviled among a large percentage of Taiwanese society, there are temples throughout the country where you’re able to worship him as a deity.

In most cases these temples are motivated more by political affiliation to the Chinese Nationalist Party (中國國民黨) than they are to religion, and while it may be hard for most to understand, there are still quite a few who are ideologically dedicated to the man and religion is a means of honouring him. 

Link: Abandoned Chiang Kai Shek Temple 

Amongst the crowd of other Taoist deities, you’ll find a wooden statue of a standing Chiang Kai-Shek with the phrase “總統是天庭虎頭星 你不可假瘋” oddly painted on his chest. 

The phrase, which loosely translates as: ”The President is member of the Heavenly Court, act accordingly” is a response to the anti-Chiang attitude among a portion of the population, which openly seeks out images of the former president to vandalize them.

As the people who run the temple believe that the statue has spiritual power, they had the phrase painted on his chest in the hope that they could save it from vandalism. 

I highly doubt that those destroying statues of the prolific mass-murderer really care.   

Getting There

 

Address: #16, Lane 201, Alley 3. Chazhuan Road. Guishan District. Taoyuan (桃園市龜山區茶專路201巷3弄16號)

Lingyun Temple is located within an industrial area in Taoyuan’s Guishan District (龜山區).

If you have your own means of transportation, getting to the temple is relatively simple but if you’re relying on public transportation, its a little more difficult. 

If you have a car or a scooter, you can easily get to the temple by inputting the address above into your GPS or on Google Maps. 

The temple has a large parking lot in front, so unless they’re having an event, you shouldn’t have to worry too much about finding a parking spot.

If on the other hand you’re relying on public transportation to get there, your options are a little more limited.

There is one bus that will get you close to the temple, but will require a bit of a walk.

There are likewise two free buses that will stop at the entrance, but the service is quite limited, so if you take this option, you should pay attention to the schedules so that you don’t get stuck. 

  1. Taoyuan Bus #5068 (Taoyuan Train Station to Fushan Temple) 

  2. Taoyuan Lohas Bus L322 (Guishan District Office to Taipei Xiaocheng)

  3. Taoyuan Lohas Bus L323 (Guishan District Office to Taipei Xiaocheng) 

In terms of the first bus, you’ll be able to conveniently take it from the Taoyuan Bus Station to its terminal station at Fushan Temple (福山宮). From there you’ll get off and then walk up the hill to the temple.

For the two free “Lohas Buses”, you’ll have to be extra careful as there are only a few shuttles every day.

There also aren’t any Youbike Stations nearby, but you could easily grab one somewhere in Guishan, ride over and then ride back when you’re done checking out the temple. 

As I mentioned above, I’m not going to spend much time over the next few months writing about any of the ‘historic’ or well-known temples that tourists like to visit.

If I find one that is strange or unique in some way though, I’ll consider it.

This one certainly falls under both of those categories. 

I don’t think I’ve ever been in a strange or more unique temple in Taiwan.

From the life-sized statues to the fringe political views expressed on the walls, it was an odd place to visit. 

If you’re looking for a Taiwanese temple experience like no other, this one might be an interesting one to add to your list of places to check out.

Although you may just want to enjoy the photos, because if I get weirded out by a temple, I can’t imagine how other less experienced temple lovers would feel.

I leave you with these last two photos, which were taken at both the entrance and the exit and appear to be the temple’s way of giving the middle finger to Christianity.

「玄天上帝中國主神」

「玄天上帝代理十字天關」

Odd, but hey, go big or go home!