Abandoned Kiln (磚窯 - 歷史遺跡)

This post is a result of a combination of some long-time curiosity and my friend Alexander Synaptic rubbing off on me. I'm not very experienced with urban exploration, but hanging out with Alexander and listening to his stories has sparked an interest in the hobby. I've found that the more I learn about urban exploration the more I discover that the willingness to go into places (where you might not always be welcome) is similar to the courage that a successful street photographer needs.

It isn't easy walking up to a complete stranger on the street and taking their photo - Likewise with urban exploration you have to be willing to put yourself in a situation that brings you into unknown places and sometimes places where no one really expects you to be walking around. There is a level of respect however that both a street photographer and an urban explorer share with their subjects and that respect is typically shown with the stories that are told in the aftermath.

With street photography I feel like I've found that courage and even through I try to be stealth-like most of the time, I often still walk up to people, smile and point my camera in their face when something strikes me as interesting. Urban exploration on the other hand isn't as easy and in most cases with the kind of abandoned places people are quite suspicious as to why you want to check things out.

Today's exploration is an abandoned brick kiln (磚窯) found on a small road between Taoyuan's Longtan village (龍潭鄉) and Hsinchu's Guanxi township (關西鎮). I have been driving down this road for years (on my drives to Neiwan) and have noticed this place each and every time I have passed by, but until now never really thought to jump over the little fence in front of it and check it out.

Kilns of this variety were quite common in Taiwan several decades ago and helped to fuel the rapid development of the nation. If you're not sure what a kiln is, they are basically a thermally enclosed room that act like an oven. The insulation in the room helps to create temperatures that are sufficient for hardening or drying of clay objects and making them into bricks, pottery, tiles and other ceramics.

Despite a few wood-fire kilns of this variety still being active in the country (some just for show) most have been abandoned or replaced with more environmentally friendly versions which use natural gas and are able to produce bricks on a much larger scale.

There isn't much information available online about these particular kilns of which there are three. I've spent a lot of time searching the web, searching archives and searching PTT (a popular forum used in Taiwan) to figure out when they were closed, how long they were in operation and who owned them but not much of that information is available online, so I can't really tell you much. What info I could find online however is that the soil in the area is naturally sulphurous and was thus ideal for the brick-making process. This is why you can see three kilns in such a relatively close area. 

The kilns are from separate companies named "Pacific" (太平洋), "Jianfu" (建富) and "Sanhe" (三合) which built them around year 60 on the Republic of China calendar (1971). They were built as Hoffmann Kilns (霍夫曼窯), a style introduced to Taiwan during the Japanese colonial period and are more popularly referred to here as "Bagua Kilns" (八卦窯) due to their resemblance to the Taoist "Eight Trigram" (八卦).  Hoffmann kilns typically have a long tunnel, a main furnace and several different pits to make the bricks. The roof trusses make it seem like an octagon and that is probably where the resemblance comes up. 

Huatan Hoffmann Kiln (花壇八卦窯) in Changhua, Taiwan (彰化) 

These particular kilns were set up in that area when the Taoyuan sewer system was being constructed and were quite popular because the earth in that area was especially suited for brick-making. Information as to when the kilns were decommissioned or how long they were in operation isn't available online so it is hard to say with any degree of certainty how long they have been abandoned. 

Reference: 磚窯(歷史遺跡) 仁安里第六鄰一帶的土質屬黃棕土,非常適合製造磚瓦。民國六十 年代初,有太平洋、建富、三合等多家磚窯。其中三合磚窯原是由內湖 搬至仁安里,這些窯屬於所謂的「八卦窯」,專門生產建築用的紅磚。所 謂「八卦窯」是一種類似隧道一般的窯洞,所不同的是窯內牆壁修飾成 八個斜坡面,看上去是八角型。他的最大特點是可以循環燒製磚胚,所 以產量比傳統的窯大很多。(Link /Pg. 47)

What I can tell you is what is still surviving today - The kilns sit alone in a large empty field near a Taipower generating station (龍潭變電所) off in the distance on one side and the popular Leofoo Village Amusement Park (六福村) on the other. There are three different kilns which were run by three different companies - one is close to the road, another is a short walk through a field while the third is a short drive from those two. There is also an abandoned building in between them that looks like it could have been a former office building. Unfortunately nothing was left inside the building to identify what actually went on while the place was in business.

The kilns are somewhat similar in the fact that they have very tall (and well preserved) smoke stacks that rise out of what (from a distance) looks like a large mound of dirt. When you get close enough you'll notice that those mounds of dirt have been overrun with shrubbery and that in certain areas there are bricks popping out. There are several entrances to each of the kilns and on the inside there are several different furnace areas where they would have made the bricks. The inside of the kiln closest to the road seems like it has become a popular place for locals to dump some of their garbage making it a bit difficult and uninteresting to shoot.

Like a lot of abandoned places there are guard dogs on the grounds and they kind of prevented me from exploring too much. A group of five or six fully grown Taiwanese dogs aren't the type you want to mess with especially when you're on their territory. The funny thing about the dogs though is that when they had no idea I was around I saw them playing in the tall grass with each other and they looked like they were having a great time pouncing around. 

As far as urban exploration goes, I'm not sure how this rates compared to what Alexander does, but there very little information available about these kilns available online in Chinese and none in English, so this is my contribution to their memory. The field they are in is really large by Taiwanese standards and it seems like a perfect location to build some dreary high rise apartments. I'm not sure how much longer they'll be around so if you're in the area check them out!

If you know any further information about the kilns or have any questions or comments, don't be shy. Comment below or contact me through the 'contact' section below.


Songshan Ciyou Temple (慈祐宮)

On one of the weekends after I first arrived in Taiwan, my friends and I decided to go check out the popular Rao-He night market. The first thing I noticed when we arrived was a huge temple near the entrance. Temples had interested me long before coming to Taiwan and even after a few weeks of being here I wasn't shy about going in to wander around and appreciate the craftsmanship that went into building them. 

I decided that the first thing I'd be doing on this little excursion would be exploring the temple before going to the night market. While walking around the temple's second floor I came across a statue acting as what we would normally consider a “knob” on a railing. It amazed me that even a simple railing could have an extremely detailed (and probably very expensive) "knob" like this. 

Same statue, new photo. 

Original point and shoot photo

The attention to detail amazed me, but the scene behind it with red lanterns and faint light in front got me thinking about (what I thought at the time) might be the perfect composition. All I had with me was a small point and shoot camera, but I knew how to control the settings well enough that I was able to get exactly what I was looking for. When I saw that I was able to achieve a specific result with the composition I wanted and was able to control the light in such a specific way it came to me that I might actually be somewhat skilled at this photography thing.

Its over a decade later now and I'm still working on and trying to improve in what I do - there's still a long way to go, that's for certain, but photography is a big part of my life and it has taken me to places that I might not have been to otherwise. For that, I guess I should thank Ciyou temple, which started me on this journey and is also the subject of today's blog:


The main facade of the temple. 

Ciyou Temple (慈祐宮) or the Songshan Mazu Temple (松山媽祖廟) as it is sometimes referred to is one of Taipei’s most important Mazu temples. It was built in 1753 on the banks of the Keelung River and is neighbours with the Rao-He night market (饒河夜市), the beautiful Rainbow Bridge (彩虹橋), Songshan train station and the newly completed Songshan MRT station making it a popular tourist attraction.

Legend has it that in the 1740s a Taoist monk was wandering around (what is now the Songshan district) carrying a statue of the Goddess Mazu. He eventually came upon a group of followers of Mazu and together they spent ten years collecting donations to build a proper place of worship.

In 1753 construction started on the temple and it was completed four years later in 1757. The temple served as an extremely important structure in the early days of development in Songshan in terms of religion and economics and it's safe to say that if the temple had been built elsewhere that the Songshan district we see today would be a much different one.

Mazu shrine

The temple is primarily dedicated to the (dark faced) goddess Mazu (天上聖母) otherwise known as the “Heavenly Mother” and covers an area of over 600 square meters. It has six floors of shrines with over a hundred different Taoist and Buddhist deities and also features a well-stocked library of Taoist, Buddhist and Chinese literature.

The main shrine room of the temple is quite large and is often full of people praying or performing religious rituals. The front of the Mazu shrine is closed off to the public and even though the statue of Matzu is quite large, it's not easy to see if there is a crowd. The closed off area of the shrine room is used by designated temple followers who will perform Taoist chanting ceremonies a few times a day and is a pretty cool thing to see if you're a tourist.

While the open space on the first floor is quite beautiful, I always prefer to go to the upper floors where there are less people and where you can get a bit closer to the shrines to enjoy the amazing craftsmanship that went into building the temple. I guarantee when you get to the top floor to the Jade Emperor’s shrine that your jaw will drop and your brain may experience a bit of sensory overload due to the amazing colours and all the small details which went into constructing such a spectacular shrine.

I'm going to do something that no other English blog has done and something that took me a long time to translate. The following is a list of all the gods and goddesses within the temple by floor, which I hope will give you a bit of an impression of just how large this temple is, as well as a reference for figuring out who all these gods are: 

  • 1st Floor (Main shrine) - Heavenly Mother Mazu (天上聖母), All-Seeing General (千里眼與順風耳), All-Hearing General (順風耳將軍)

  • 1st Floor (Side Rooms) - The Earth God (福德正神), Ksitigarbha Buddha (地藏菩薩), Ananda (阿難尊者), Maudgalyāyana (目連), Five Directional Camp Generals (五營神將), The Tiger General (虎爺), Kaishan Spirit Tablets (開山先靈神位),  Gongde Spirit Tablets (功德先賢祿位) 

  • 2nd Floor (Main shrine) - Doumu Goddess (斗姥元君), 60 Dukes of Jupiter (六十值年太歲星君), Lord Zuo Fu & Lord You Bi protectors (護法神左輔右弼大將)

  • 2nd Floor (Health shrine) - Goddess of Childbirth (註生娘娘), Twelve Nursing Goddesses (十二婆姐), Du Yuniang Midwife (杜玉娘夫人)

  • 3rd Floor (Buddhist shrine) -  Guanyin (Nanhai Guanyin 南海觀音 and Thousand Armed Guanyin 千手觀音), Sudhanakumâra (善財龍女), Mañjuśrī (文殊菩薩),  Samantabhadra (普賢菩薩), Skanda (韋馱菩薩),  Samghārāma (伽藍神), The Eighteen Arhats (十八羅漢), Maitreya Buddha (彌勒佛)

  • 4th Floor (Emperor Temple) -  Guan Yu (關聖帝君), Prince Guanping (關平太子), General Zhou Cang (周倉將軍), Lü Dongbin (孚佑帝君), The Kitchen God (灶君), Master Qingshui (清水祖師), Wenchang Emperor (文昌帝君), Great Master Kui (魁星), Narcissus King (水仙王), Doctor Baoyi (保儀大夫),  God King Guangze (廣澤尊王), The Five Battalion Commanders (五營神將)

  • 5th Floor (Three Pure Ones Temple) -  Three Pure Ones (三清道祖), Three Masters (Shakyamuni Buddha, Laozi, Confucius), The Great Emperor of the South Pole (南極長生大帝), The Great Emperor of the North Pole (北極紫微大帝), Marshal Ma (馬靈官), Marshall Zhao (趙元帥), Mother Earth Goddess (地母娘娘), Lord of the Sun (太陽星君), Lord of the Moon (太陰星君), Shennong Emperor (神農大帝)

  • 6th Floor (Roof Temple) - The Jade Emperor (玉皇大帝), Emperors of the Three Offices (三官大帝), Lord Emperor of Fire (火官大帝), Lord of the Little Dipper (南斗星君), Lord of the Big Dipper (北斗星君)

The temple is well known in Taiwan for the intricate design and attention to detail that went into its construction. There is also some amazing stone work, octagonal plafond ceilings and a roof that is so full of detail that it probably deserves a blog post of its own.

I spent a few hours translating all the names of the gods and goddesses in the temple. It's not really required reading, but I thought it would be a good idea to provide that information to people as it isn't readily available on the Internet in English.

Don't let the amount of gods and goddesses intimidate you and don't worry about strange religious people proselytizing to you. The people who work at the temple are quite helpful and enjoy it when tourists visit so if you're in the area, make sure to stop in and check out the temple.

Spend some time taking in the arts and craftsmanship that went into constructing it and make sure to get yourself all the way up to the sixth floor to see one of the most beautiful shrines in all of Taiwan!


Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞)

The Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞) is a really large cave here in the mountains of Taoyuan county. While it doesn't actually boast any bats (or a batman) it is impressively large and it has a nice little waterfall next to it! The area around it is extremely quiet and one of the few places (apart from the top of a high mountain) where you can actually get some peace and quiet in Taiwan, something that I think we all need from time to time.  

The cave which is also known as Shuilian Cave (水濂洞) is a natural rock cavern in the mountains of Taoyuan county and is thought to be the largest cave of its kind in northern Taiwan.

The massive cave has a height of 20 meters, a width of 50 meters and is about 20 meters deep. The area inside the cave seems expansive and it is estimated that over a thousand people could fit inside. You may even notice while standing inside the cave that the shape out of the mouth looks a little bit like the shape of Taiwan.

Or maybe that's just me!

The cave sits under a spring and there is often water falling from the top of it, which is where it got its original name:  "water curtain cave" (水濂洞).

If you are sitting inside, the falling drops of water make it seem like the water forms a 'curtain' separating the inside and outside of the cave. If you visit on a sunny day the effect is a lot cooler as the sun shines into the ravine while you are sitting in a relatively dark cave with a fine layer of water between the two.

Batman's cave has a waterfall too!

Next to the cave there is a small waterfall that flows from the spring above - The waterfall isn't large and the amount of water you see depends on what time of year you are visiting. (If you visit during the wet season you'll experience a large waterfall and if you visit during a dry part of the year you're not likely to see very much at all.) The pool below the waterfall can be deep and it forms a small river that flows out of the ravine and down the path that you took to get to the cave. The waterfall is pretty cool and the pool in front of it would likely be a nice place to take a dip to escape the summer heat.

The cave is in a ravine and is close to a damp water source which made it an optimal location for bats to make their home. The bats lived in the cave for so long that their guano (bat poop) had dyed the soil red making the inside of the cave a completely different colour than the soil on the outside. Unfortunately for the bats, in 1931 their home was discovered by the local Atayal (泰雅族) people and they quickly became a delicacy for the Indigenous tribe.

The bats may have made their home in the cave for thousands of years, but it only took a few decades of human interference to drive them away. Today there are very few, if any bats left in the cave and if you see one you can probably count yourself lucky.

You'll find the cave in Sanmin village (三民村) which is known as the gateway to the Northern-Cross Island Highway (北部橫貫公路) and is close to Daxi Old Street (大溪老街), the Cihu Mausoleum (慈湖陵寢), the Daxi Tea Factory (大溪老茶廠), Xiao Wulai Waterfall (小烏來) and only minutes from the old TUBA Church (基國派老教堂). Getting to the cave requires a short ten minute walk from the parking lot and is quite accessible for anyone who wants to visit.

No matter what time of year you visit, the cave is pretty cool and is a popular getaway for locals wanting to escape the summer heat. You can have a picnic with family, go for a swim or even spend some time meditating! The Sanmin Bat Cave is quite a special place here in Taiwan and while you can find other bat caves like this in other parts of the country, it's not likely that you can find one this large, this peaceful and with such a pretty waterfall