Hsinhsing Theatre (新興老戲院)

I went on an urban exploration day trip with my friend and fellow photographer/blogger Alexander Synaptic last week. The resulting trip will likely end up producing more than a few blogs and quite a few photos between us as we visited several locations and enjoyed a beautiful day in Hsinchu. 

Near the end of the day we decided to stop in the small village of Hsinpu (新埔), known mostly for Yimin Temple (義民廟) and its Hakka culture and cuisine. I stopped at Yimin Temple to ask some questions for my Pigs of God blog and also showed Alexander around a bit as it was his first visit to the temple which is extremely important to the Hakka people of Taiwan. 

After visiting the temple we decided to drive into the downtown area of the village on our way back to Taoyuan and do a bit of a photo walk to see what cool things could find as well as going for some of the food that Hsinpu is so famous for.

Alexander had wanted to visit Hsinpu for a while because he had heard about an old abandoned theatre called the "Hsinpu Theatre" (新埔戲院) but we were saddened to find out when we arrived that it had been recently demolished and replaced by an ugly high-rise apartment building. 

The street that we were on however was once referred to as "entertainment street" which meant that there was probably some kind of 'entertainment' elsewhere on the street at some point.

Where the screen would have been

A quick walk down the street brought us to a suspicious-looking building that ended up also being an abandoned theatre. Despite not finding our original target we found something that neither of us had known about and ended up being pretty much the kind of thing we were looking for. 

While there isn't much information available online about this abandoned building, we found out that it was named Hsinhsing Theatre (新興戲院). Thanks to the assistance of public records, we also found out that the theatre, which is more or less empty today, was originally registered as a business in 1956 and ultimately went out of business sixty-one years later at the turn of the century. 

When the theatre went out of business, the building was then used as a make-shift karaoke bar for a period of time but that seems to have been a short-lived business venture and today the beautiful old theatre sits abandoned and is used by neighbours as a place to keep their dogs tied up and to store a bunch of garbage. 

If you want to know more about the theatre you're going to have to visit Alexander's well-written and well-researched blog post about it - He's a master of urban exploration and this kind of thing is really his domain. I'm just here to share my photos from the theatre here. Enjoy! 

Xinxing Theater 新興戲院

While the theatre wasn't a secret, it wasn't really on the radar of Urban Explorers before Alexander and I posted blogs and photos about it online. Since then the theatre has been visited quite a few times by other urban explorers which gives me a bit of a reason to update this post with not only newer photos, but some additional information and a bit of a rant. 

When Alexander and I first visited the theatre, the biggest problem was the dogs which were tied up on the first floor - and who didn't really appreciate us invading their space. On my second visit to the theatre however the dogs weren't around, but there was something else that bothered me. 

One of the mottos that Urban Explorers live by is this - "Take nothing by pictures, leave nothing but footprints". This simple phrase describes the goal of urban exploration, which brings explorers to abandoned buildings, factories, hospitals, schools, etc. so that they can "explore, discover and photograph buildings and constructions created by human beings in the forgotten spaces of civilization." (link

Alexander and I knew that there was a projection room on the second floor of this building. We wanted to get inside of it to see what secrets we could find. There was however a deadbolt on the door, so following the rules of urban exploration, we just tried to peek in through one of the windows. 

After we posted the blogs and photos however, some other people, who apparently don't bother with the rules decided to cut the deadbolt and open the door to the projection room. Now that the projection room was open, I decided to go in and see and was quite surprised to find that there was still some stuff left, which included parts of the old projectors, chemicals and old film. 

It was nice to be able to gain access to the room, but it also bothered me that someone would break down the door. The other thing that bothered me was that the so-called "Urban Explorers" who visited after Alexander and I also left a bunch of garbage. I noticed that there were 35mm film-containers and packages on the ground, a broken camera tripod, etc. 

If the point is just to take photos and document the theatre why leave so much garbage? Why ruin this exploration for others? I realize that not everybody follows the same standards, but its the people who do these things that ruin it for others. The theatre may be easily accessible now, but sooner or later the neighbours might just get tired of people showing up and eventually just start calling the police. Thats unfortunate. If you want to visit a place like this and want to try your hand at urban exploration, try to be responsible.  


Gallery /Flickr (High Res Shots)

Pigs of God (神豬)

Pose with the Pig! 

Since I started this blog a little over two years ago, one of the most popular posts has been the one about the Pigs of God festival. There isn't a wealth of information available in English about this cultural tradition, so I've always figured that the post was interesting to those who might be curious about what exactly goes on with this event after seeing something about it in the news or on social media.

My post last year was meant to explain the ritual and give a bit of the cultural context to people overseas who don't really understand what's going on but feel triggered somehow and end up condemning the people of Taiwan when they see sensationalistic news and photos about this festival. 

With this post, I plan to expand upon the information I provided about the ritual last year as well as provide some updates and personal opinion. I've attended this festival pretty much every year for the last decade, so I hope that after reading this you'll understand a bit more about this cultural tradition through my experience. The purpose of this post is to attempt to offer a balanced look at this centuries-old cultural practice and not to sensationalize things the way the foreign media does.

Before I move on though, I should add the disclaimer that there will be a few photos of dead pigs in the later stages of this blog post. There is nothing particularly gruesome but I'm just warning you beforehand! 

The practice of putting giant carcasses of dead pigs known as the "Pigs of God" (神豬) on display as a form of animal sacrifice is a tradition that started with the Hakka people a few hundred years ago here in Taiwan. Chinese culture however is no stranger to animal sacrifice and the practice has been going on for thousands of years. This particular ritual is a relatively new one with only a two hundred year history but is one of those traditional cultural practices that has struggled to stay relevant in modern times due to to societal changes and attitudes towards animal welfare.

The event is often described as being mired in controversy but at the same time it also has the ability to arouse the curiosity of society at large who yearn for a bit of tradition in their hectic lives while others may look at it as a way to connect them to their heritage. This means that while there are quite a few people who oppose it, there are others who make sure to visit and do their best to experience the vibrance of Taiwanese culture.

The arguments for and against the festival go a little bit like this: Activists argue that this practice is not in line with modern Taiwanese society and that the tradition should cease to continue while supporters insist that it is a traditional aspect of Hakka culture and therefore it should be preserved. Taiwan is a highly developed country where modernity and tradition are often at odds with each other, so when it comes to events like this groups who support these cultural traditions are often just as vocal as the opposition when their traditions are being targeted. In most places around the world a disagreement of this nature would likely lead to violence, but not in Taiwan where people (for the most part) respect the rule of law. 

I have covered this festival as a photographer for several years and while I personally don't agree with the practice, I do my best to understand the cultural tradition that has inspired it and generally keep my opinion to myself. I believe that my job as a photographer is to use my camera to show people what is happening and thus letting them decide for themselves how they feel. As an expat living in Taiwan, I don't think it is really my place to tell people what they should and shouldn't do and even though I have issues with animal abuse and animal sacrifice, I have to say that attending the event is always an interesting experience and offers a great perspective into the local culture.

When I first came to Taiwan there were around five-ten giant pigs put on display per year. Friends tell me that when they were younger there were at least twenty or more. That number has slowly decreased with only three showing up last year and only one this year. I spoke to the director of the Taoyuan Yimin Temple (桃園縣平鎮市褒忠祠) and he explained that there are fewer pigs this year due to "environmental concerns" (環保的關係) and the fact that fewer people are willing to raise the pigs nor do they have the space to keep them.

Typically you can see the Pigs of God show up during the Hakka people's Yimin Festival (義民文化節) or (very ironically) during birthday celebrations for Master Qingshui (清水祖師), a Buddhist monk enshrined at the Qingshui Zushi Temple (清水祖師廟) in New Taipei City's Sanxia District.

The pigs are raised for at least two years and during that time they are force-fed in much the same way as a goose or duck in France is fed in order to make foie-gras which allows for the pig to grow to abnormal proportions. There are reports that a few days before the event takes place over-zealous farmers will force feed heavy metals to the pig to make its final weight much heavier in order to win. I'm not going to dispute that this kind of cruelty takes place but I also think that there is a lot of negativity and false information spread around to discredit the festival.

In the past the pigs would be taken out into the public square in front of the temples to be weighed and publicly slaughtered. This was a gruesome sight and one that I'm glad I've never had to experience. Foreign media outlets however report that this is still a common practice as the pigs are brought out on forklifts, weighted and they slaughtered in front of cheering crowds which I have to say is blatantly false and is only used as a means to slander the good people of Taiwan.

Hakka's from out of town paying respect to Yimin Yeh (義民爺)

While most religious groups that have practiced this type of animal sacrifice have put an end to the practice, Yimin Temple (義民廟) and Sanxia's Qingshui Zushi Temple (清水祖師廟) are the last to carry the torch. Both temples have had to tone things down though and the Qingshui temple has promised to end the practice by 2017 and find another way to carry on the tradition in an attempt to placate both the traditionalists and those who stand up for animal rights.

Last year, the winning pig weighed around 840kg (1680台斤) and this year the sole entry into the contest was around 675kg (1350台斤) showing a bit of a decrease from years past. For a bit of clarity - market sized hogs sell when they are at about 250 - 270 pounds (113-122kg) meaning that the Pig of God this year grew at least 5-6 times the normal size while winning pigs of the past have reached anywhere between 800-900 kilograms making them almost ten times the size of a normal healthy pig.

The pigs are raised in a way that they are constantly overfed which eventually forces them to become immobile. This lifestyle is extremely unhealthy for the animals as they develop painful bed sores and often suffer from organ failure and various other ailments. Despite knowing all of this, after the pig is slaughtered there are long lines of people lined up to get a piece of the freshly butchered hog that is freely distributed to the people in attendance.

The historical nature of the is event is a bit hard to understand and (even if you speak Mandarin) there aren't a lot of resources on the Internet to really explain why it all started but after several hours of research I was turning up blanks. So, I decided to just ride my scooter over to Hsinchu's Hsinpu village (新埔鎮) and visit the largest and most important Yimin Temple to get the answers I needed. 

The origin of the event shares a history with the formation of Yimin temple itself - The temple is a religious and cultural centre for the Hakka people but it's purpose is to memorialize the patriotic Hakka militiamen who worked together to protect their homes and later quell several rebellions (林爽文事件及戴潮春事件) against the Qing Emperor in the late 1700s. 

After each rebellion, the deceased members of the Hakka volunteer army were brought back and buried in the area where the temple now stands. For their heroism and loyalty to the Qing empire, the emperor sent plaques in their honour to thank them for their service and their sacrifice. The temple was ultimately built to remember these heroes but also to give the Hakka people a place to worship and celebrate their culture.

The deceased militiamen were honoured with a spirit plaque (神位) in the newly built temple which became known as "Yìmín Yé" (義民爺) and thus became the reason why the Hakka people celebrate the Yimin Cultural festival (義民節) every summer. In the early days of the festival there would be a huge feast to celebrate the deceased heroes and this feast always consisted of pork because it was one of the most important ingredients used in Hakka cuisine and also readily available to the people of that era.

This doesn't really explain why the Pigs of God became a competition though - This came years later when a young Hakka boy from Hsinpu who wanted to pass the Imperial Exam (科舉) visited the temple to pray to Yimin Ye to ask for a blessing in passing the test. When he eventually passed the test and returned to Taiwan he went back to the temple to thank Yimin Ye for help in passing the test. As a way of thanking the 'Yimin' his family prepared a huge feast at the temple for all the people to come and celebrate his achievement. During the feast it was decided that from then on it would become a tradition for a large pig to be raised in honour of Yimin Ye and to be presented during the Yimin Festival. The responsibility for raising the pig would ultimately rotate between the prominent Hakka families in order to ensure that each family did its part and that people wouldn't foolishly waste their money when they had such an important responsibility.

This rotation went on for quite some time but ultimately a healthy competition started between families as the pigs raised for the festival became larger and larger each year. A large pig became a symbol that a family was quite well off, so farmers started doing whatever they could to make the pig they had to raise grow as large as possible. When the problem of "face" comes into these kinds of things in Taiwan, a competition is bound to happen, and in this case, it was to be expected that even in off-years people would still raise a pig to submit to the competition while at the same time offering gratitude to Yimin Ye.

Basically things got out of hand because of a drunken conversation over a feast of amazing food.

In the history of the world this isn't the worst thing that could have happened because of a drunken conversation - but I think knowing the history gives me hope for the future - A future without the Pigs of God! 

If the whole point of this was to have a feast and get together with the community, there are ways to do that which don't require giant pigs. Instead of raising a giant pig, the money that is spent on feeding such a giant animal for two years would probably be better spent on preparing an actual meal of amazing Hakka food for people to enjoy! 

There are many ways to improve amazing festival while at the same time celebrating Hakka culture and history - I have seen with my own eyes that a lot of these changes are already taking place and that while the Pigs of God were an important aspect of the past, they are not an important part of the future.

If you have any questions, comments, corrections or criticisms, don't be shy, comment below and I'll get back to you as soon as I can! 


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Photos)

Hsinchu City God Inspection (新竹城隍廟遶境)

While you’ll find places of worship dedicated to so-called the “City God” all over Taiwan, the Hsinchu City God Temple (新竹都城隍廟) is regarded more or less as the king of them all.

Like Hsinchu itself, the temple has a long history and over the years it has assumed the role of ‘spiritual headquarters’ for the other ninety-five temples dedicated to the deity throughout the country.

The City God, also known as Cheng Huang Ye (城隍爺) is an interesting figure in Chinese Folk Religion and is an important god in the hierarchy of deities within the religion - especially here in Taiwan.

Literally the “Lord of Walls and Moats”, the City God performs the role of a spiritual magistrate and acts as a medium between the real-world and the ‘otherworldly’ bureaucracy.

This is something that will become much more obvious as you read on.

While it would be easy to liken the City God’s role to a modern-day mayor of a city, his role is a much more traditional one that is similar to what a bureaucrat in ancient China would have performed.

Not only is he responsible for order and stability within his realm, it’s also important for him to ensure that justice be swiftly carried out while also offering protection and material benefits to his constituents.

Link: City God (Wiki) | Cheng Huang (Britannica)

To carry out his duties, the City God comes complete with a court, divine officials, judges, generals soldiers to help ensure that his will is done.

If you have a keen eye and know a bit about this stuff, you’ll notice that quite a few of these figures are common in Taiwan’s temples and aren’t always exclusive to the City God.

Most notably, General Fan and General Hsieh (范謝將軍), General Han and General Lu (韓盧將軍), Ox-Head and Horse-Face Generals (牛馬將軍), the Eight Infernal Generals (八家將) and the Lock and Cangue Generals (枷鎖將軍), among others.

Link: Chenghuang—City God, Judge, and Underworld Official (Digital Taiwan)

While it may seem cliche to say this, the importance of the City God and his court is Confucian in nature and his worship is representative of ancient Chinese philosophical notions of political ideology and urban development.

To explain, worship of the City God is thought to have started sometime during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) in the early 14th Century. At that time, cities in China and other countries in the region were commonly walled-communities with large guarded gates. Coincidentally, the original urban design of Hsinchu itself was no different and you can still find one of the gates, Yingximen (竹塹城迎曦門), otherwise known as the East Gate, near the City God Temple.

The City God in his Palanquin

The purpose of the gates was obviously for practical security purposes, but also demarcated the physical perimeter of towns and cities in addition to the spiritual area, which the City God (as well as his human counterparts) were expected to reign over.

Each of the ninety-five City God temples in Taiwan “presides” over an administrative region of the country, which could be anything from a small village, town, city, county or off-shore island.

Interestingly, a few centuries ago, these temples would have been (somewhat) off-limits to the general public with only local government officials allowed to visit. Today though, things are quite different and people all over Taiwan visit regularly to pray and make offerings to the City God and those in his court.

They also come to pay respects to his wife, who is well known for her exceptional match-making skills! 

To that effect, when you enter a City God temple, the design is supposed to mimic that of what you’d find in a traditional Chinese-style palace with the City God sitting on a throne and each of the members of the court having their own office (shrine) to perform their duties.

When interpreting City God worship, its important to take into consideration that traditional and contemporary folk religion in Taiwan tend to differ slightly. For many of the reasons listed above, the City God has performed a divine role as a unifying figure for a specific geographic location, kind of like a sports team does for a lot of people.

His worship has also helped to enforce the notion of bureaucratic hierarchy and devotion to ones community and country. More importantly though, of the long list of deities from Taoism and Chinese Folk Religion, he has always considered to be the most loyal and just of them all and is meant to serve as a role model for any who take up public office.

All of this tends to be reinforced by the company that he keeps as many of the more well-known members of his court are known for their adherence to personal sacrifice, loyalty, justice and honour.

A much-needed Supau break!

The modern approach to the City God in Taiwan though is one that takes into account many of the attributes listed above but goes even further into making the City God somewhat of a divine superhero who is capable of performing miracles and assisting local people with whatever problems life might throw at them.

Essentially the City God has become a multi-purpose deity who not only provides peace and protection to his constituents, but is also the go-to deity for any problems that you might have. This is important because if you haven’t noticed already, Taiwanese pride themselves on convenience - so if you have a deity that is able to help solve any issue you may have, it’ll end up saving you some time.

So if for example you were a farmer with health problems whose crops were being stolen, instead of visiting the Land God (福德正神), the Baosheng Emperor (保生大帝) and the Lord of Grains (神農), you could just visit the City God.

Makes sense right?

It goes without saying that worship of Mazu (媽祖) and the Earth God are probably much more prevalent in contemporary life in Taiwan, but the City God is still one of the most important deities here and thus the festivals in his honour are some of the largest temple festivals on the yearly calendar and this one in Hsinchu is the largest!

Now that we have all of that out of the way. Let’s talk about the festival!

The schedule of interesting cultural and religious events during Taiwan’s annual month-long Ghost Month Festival is a long one, but one of the highlights is always the three-day long Hsinchu City God Inspection.

During these three days, the city comes alive with events that pretty much shut down the downtown of the city while gods parade through through the streets with a constant barrage of fireworks and fire-crackers.

The event starts on July 13th (of the Lunar Calendar) and lasts until the final night on July 15th when the City God leaves his temples and goes on an inspection tour of the city.

  • July 13th - Night Patrol (查夜暗訪,祈福平安)

  • July 15th - City God Inspection (城隍威巡,遶境賑孤)

A quick note:

This may confuse some people, but July 15th on the Lunar Calendar just so happens to be an important day within the schedule of events during Ghost Month (中元節) as it marks the middle of the month-long celebrations. On this day, all around Taiwan people place offerings outside their homes and businesses as a show of compassion for the ‘hungry ghosts’ (餓鬼), who are regarded as people who have died without a family to worship them.

While the ‘Pudu’ (中元普渡) celebrations take place all over Taiwan, as well as in Hsinchu, the City God Inspection is an event that can be considered to be “part” of the celebrations, but is something that is exclusive only to Hsinchu, which is a tradition in the city that goes back a few centuries.

The Spirit Medium / Oracle (乩童)

For those of you who like myself have a difficult time keeping track of events on the Lunar Calendar, you should start preparing for this event sometime near the end of August or the beginning of September.

If you do have a hard time, I recommend bookmarking this website, which should help you keep track of what is happening at the different times of the year in Taiwan.

Link: Taiwan Religious Culture Map (台灣宗教文化地圖)

This event is similar to a lot of other temple festivals in Taiwan but more so comparable to what happens during the Qingshan King Inspection tour (青山靈安尊王) of Wanhua district in Taipei.

Although there are quite a few differences, the atmosphere is just as electric and the parade that ensues throughout the city is one of those Taiwanese cultural events that should definitely be seen at least once!

On the first day of the festival, several ceremonies take place before the son of the City God leaves the temple in his palanquin with torch-carrying believers following through the route that will be taken two days later.

The reason why it’s important that the son checks out the route beforehand is that it is especially important during Ghost Month that the route is ‘safe’ for the City God to leave his throne-room.

To ensure that no angry ghosts are lurking around the route, the City God’s son is accompanied by members of the court as well as torch-carrying believers who parade through the streets on a “night patrol” (查夜暗訪) making lots of noise to announce their arrival and scare away anyone or anything that could cause a problem.

On July 15th, the day of the inspection, temples from throughout the country form a traditional parade and come to Hsinchu to pay respect to the City God. This parade is something that starts early in the afternoon and goes on well into the night.

If you’re reading this and wondering why City God statues from temples around the country come to pay respect to the Hsinchu City God, you’re probably not alone.

They are after-all all statues of the same god aren’t they?

To explain it simply, there is a hierarchy of importance when it comes to these statues - The Hsinchu City God is (unofficially) considered to be the emperor of them all and the statues from minor temples are thought to derive their spiritual power from it, which is why they have to visit and pay their respect.

As I mentioned above, when a major deity like the City God comes out of their temple for an inspection, there will always be an entourage traveling with them. In this case, there is the "night patrol" on the first night of the event that scares away any evil or ghosts which may be hiding in the area. Then when the god starts its inspection, another large parade is formed to help ensure security.

The entourage is probably my favourite part of these inspection tours as they usually include the Eight Generals (八家將), the First Officers (官將首) and the Infernal Generals (大仙尪仔) in addition to others dressed up in robes beating gongs, lighting fire crackers and generally causing about as much noise pollution as possible.

Link: Eight Generals (Wiki) | The Eight Generals and the Neimen Songjiang Battle Ritual (TaiwanEverything)

The night of the inspection is considered to be the liveliest time of the year in Hsinchu City and attracts thousands of spectators and believers from all over the country.

Hsinchu has changed a lot since the early days of this festival and as it has developed into one of Taiwan’s most modern cities, the annual City God Inspection has likewise followed suit.

These days you’ll find a masterful medley of modernity and tradition on display at the event which helps make the event accessible to everyone with the usage of large screens, live feeds and the internet.

To that effect, this year a large covered stage was set up in the public square next to the City God Temple where the god accepted visitors from various temples around the country. This allowed for a smooth flow of pedestrian traffic and saved quite a bit of time. It was also helpful for those who wanted to take part in the event as the space was large enough for people to line the streets.

Likewise, there was a live stream of the event on large screens set up throughout the city as well as on the internet.

One of the most interesting modern additions was the usage of an electric fire-cracker box that simulates the sound of firecrackers, but doesn’t pollute the air in the same way actual firecrackers do - something that I hope catches on with temples all over the country.

That being said, the downtown core of Hsinchu is notorious for its terrible traffic and even though traffic control measures were put into place in the area where the inspection was taking place, it was still kind of a mess with traffic backed up for quite a long time while various portions of the parade were visiting other local temples.

If you’ve read this far, I think I should probably mention that this is a much-needed update to the original City God Inspection post that I made several years ago. This time around I’ve added more in-depth information about the festival as well as some new photos.

When I first attended the City God Inspection several years ago, I did so with my good friend and fellow blogger Alexander Synaptic (website / instagram) who did some visual story-telling through his social media accounts while I took photos. This time around, when I arrived in Hsinchu, Alexander had already been there for a few days touring Hsinchu and documenting the early stages of the festival. It was great to once again walk around and enjoy ourselves during this important cultural event.

Before we met up though, I spent a few hours on the coast of Hsinchu taking photos of the Xiangshan Wetlands and the Xiangshan Train Station for some upcoming articles.

When I arrived in the city, I quickly made my way to the parade route and started taking photos of some of the early processions around town. When I came across a group of Eight Generals (八家將) from Tainan’s Xianwei Hall (府城玄威堂), who came up to Hsinchu for the day to perform and pay their respects to the City God, I spent quite a bit of time following them and taking portraits.

As time goes by, I hope to be able to continue attending this festival and likewise posting future updates to this blog. If you have any questions, feel free to get in touch and I’ll try to help out. Likewise, some of the information about is open to interpretation. If you think I could have explained something better, don’t hesitate to let me know!