Naminoue Shinto Shrine (波上宮)

How much do you know about Okinawa? If you’re like most people, you probably learned in history books that it was the location of one of the most devastating battles of the Second World War. That unfortunately might be the extent of your knowledge about this small, yet extremely beautiful archipelago of islands known as the Ryukyus.

What happened before the war? What happened after the war? 

These are questions that anyone planning a visit should be asking. 

Okinawa’s history is an extremely complex one and if you’re not well-versed, don’t worry, if you visit, you’re going to get a crash course. 

The Okinawa of today has developed into a modern, yet beautiful tropical island with excellent infrastructure and public transportation that provides easy access to all the other outlying islands and amazing beaches.

Its hard to fathom while walking down the clean, well-organized streets that half a century ago, the entirety of the island was reduced to a festering pile of rubble and human misery. 

In the aftermath of the war, Okinawa redeveloped at an amazing pace, but while homes and businesses can be rebuilt, something that the people of Okinawa continue to struggle with today is that they’ve lost so much of their culture, language and identity through all of the chaos.. 

This is something that the people of Okinawa have worked tirelessly at rectifying over the past few decades and now the fruits of their labor are taking shape as there has been a cultural revival of sorts when it comes to the local language, culture and customs, which the local people have become so very proud of.

What this revival also shows quite clearly is that there is a stark contrast between the Ryukyuan people and their Japanese compatriots and that while they might have a shared history, they’re not one in the same.

Link: Battle of Okinawa’s legacy lives on 70 years later as locals chase against Japanese rule, US arms (The Conversation) 

In the aftermath of the war, reconstruction efforts focused primarily on building modern infrastructure and homes for all of the people who were displaced. Suffice to say that many of the buildings of cultural or religious significance that were lost weren’t really high in priority.

This meant that the various Ryukyuan castles like Shuri Castle, Nakagusuku Castle and Zakimi Castle as well as various tombs and places or worship weren’t rebuilt.

The Eight Ryukyuan Shrines (琉球八社) for example, which were (for the most part) places of worship created for the Ryukyuan folk religion (and later converted into Shinto Shrines) were eventually rebuilt, but it would take until the 1990s (or later) Or for most of them to reappear in some shape or form. 

Links: Ryukyu Eight Shrines 琉球八社 (Samurai Archives)  | 琉球八社 (Wiki)

When reconstruction efforts on these shrines finally began, priority was given to the largest and most significant of them, namely, Futenma Shrine (普天滿宮) just outside of the capital. Next came Naminoue Shrine (波上宮), Okinawa’s “ichinomiya” (一宮), the highest-ranking shrine in the prefecture.

Naminoue Shrine, known simply to the locals as ‘Nanminsan’ has a long history dating back to at least the 1300s and today is the most widely-visited place of worship in all of Okinawa.

The shrine is not only one of the most important religious sites in the capital city, but is also a place of worship that is uniquely ‘Okinawan.’ Even though it maintains many of Japan’s traditional design elements, it is unmistakably something that you’re only going to see in Okinawa which makes it stand out from the 80,000 other shrines across the country.  

Naminoue Shrine (波上宮)

Literally, the “Above the Waves Shrine”, Naminoue Shrine, pronounced [Na-mi-new-oh-eh], sits high on its perch above the Naha Harbour. 

The internet is full of claims that the history of the shrine dates back almost a thousand years, but that is actually a bit misleading. There isn’t actually any recorded information or evidence that gives an exact date as to when a shrine was first constructed in this location. 

What we do know about the origins of the shrine are from local legends. The story goes a little like this: A shrine was constructed by a fishermen who one day came across a mysterious stone and, (as one does), began to pray to it, which caused the stone to start glowing. Soon after the fisherman started taking in record hauls which eventually caught the attention of the local gods who stole the rock. From that time on though, an oracle took up residence in the area and people started visiting for spiritual guidance. 

The first documented information about a shrine in the area comes from the “Ryukyu-Koku-Yurai-Ki” (琉球國由來記) or “the Record of Origin of the Kingdom of Ryukyu” which tells of a Buddhist Temple, the “Naminoue-san Gokoku-ji” (波上山護國寺), which was constructed in 1367 and would later burn to the ground in 1633.    

The shrine would then return to its folk-religious roots and as its reputation for spiritual greatness spread throughout the land, it became habit for the sailors coming in and out of Naha harbour to look up and say a prayer for protection on their journey. Lending credence to the claims of Naminsan’s spiritual power, the Ryukyuan Kings also made a yearly ritual of visiting the area to formally pray on behalf of the nation for peace and prosperity.

Note: The local folk religion, known as “Nirai Kanai” (ニライカナイ信仰) or simply as “Ryukyuan Shinto” (琉球神道) is similar in a lot of ways to Japanese Shintoism. The religion honours the relationship between the living and the dead as well as the gods and spirits of the natural world, but is also predominately a medium of ancestral worship. 

Nanminsan was dedicated to the local religion for hundreds of years, but that came to an end when the Japanese annexed the Ryukyuan Islands and formally put an end to the Ryukyuan Kingdom in 1879. From the outset, the Japanese treated the Ryukyuan people as second-class citizens and attempted to erase their culture and language. The local folk religion became one of the colonial powers first targets and Nanminsan being one of the most sacred spaces in the land was replaced by the “Naminoue Shinto Shrine” in 1890. 

The newly established Naminoue Shinto Shrine was classified at the time as the “Okinawa Sochinju” (沖繩總鎮守社), which mean that it was dedicated to the “protection and tranquility” of the entire prefecture. The problem for the Japanese however was that the local people resisted, so they capitulated and enshrined several of the Ryukyuan Kings as gods at the shrine in an attempt to appease the locals.

This in turn also helped the Japanese integrate the royal family into the Japanese Imperial structure. 

In 1923, the shrine was completely rebuilt and all of the traditional Okinawan design elements were replaced by traditional Japanese design. That version of the shrine however only lasted for a few decades though as it was completely destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945. 

In the years following the war, the shrine was slowly rebuilt with initial construction focusing on the Shamusho (社務所) and Honden (本殿), which were completed in 1953. It would take another four decades to raise enough money to complete the rest of the shrine (which is something I think in retrospect that we can be thankful for) as the Haiden (拜殿) and several other parts of the complex were completed and opened to the public in 1993. 

The reason why I suggest that we’re fortunate is because the completed structure that we see today is a beautiful fusion of Japanese and Okinawan traditional design that might not have been possible if it were completed sooner. The resurgence of the Ryukyuan cultural identity has fueled a need for local places of worship to better represent the local population, so the end result is a unique shrine that pays home age to the beautiful Ryukyuan islands. 

Link: Naminoue Shrine (The Samurai Archives) | Origin of Naminoue Shrine (波上宮) 

Kumano Worship (熊野三山)

Before we get into some of the different design elements of the shrine, I’d like to take a few minutes to explain Kumano Worship, which is something most people might find a bit a confusing about Okinawa’s Shinto Shrines. It is rare that you’ll find an article that touches on the subject, so I’ll try to explain it as best as I can, but it’s important to note that a lack of recorded history makes this stuff a little difficult to explain. 

One of the common features of all of Okinawa’s Shinto Shrines is that they are dedicated to Kumano Worship - which is a Shinto tradition that hails from the mountainous Kumano (熊野) region that spans the prefectures of Wakayama (和歌山縣) and Mie (三重), about 100 kilometres south of Osaka (大阪) on Japan’s main island. 

Kumano Worship might not attract as many followers as some of Japan’s other Shinto sects, but it is thought to predate all of Japan’s modern religions. Centered around the three UNESCO World Heritage Shinto Shrines: Hongu Taisha (本宮大社), Hayatama Taisha (速玉大社) and Nachi Taisha (那智大社) the area is considered to be a place of physical healing and is often mentioned in the mythology surrounding Japan’s founding.  

Today there are more than three-thousand shrines throughout Japan dedicated to Kumano worship, each of which goes through a special propagation process known as “bunrei” (分霊) where the spiritual power of the Kumano deities are shared with a new shrine. Over the past thousand years as Kumano worship spread throughout Japan, followers including Emperors, Samurai and commoners alike have all been attracted to the area to take part in the Kumano Kodo (熊野古道), one of the worlds most important religious pilgrimages.

There are numerous legends that deal with the origin of Kumano Worship, which all deal with the power of nature. Not only is the Kumano area credited with being the mythological birthplace of Japan, it is also known as the “land of the dead” where various kami retire in death - including the gravesite of Izanami (伊邪那美), the deity who created the earth together with her husband Izanagi (伊邪那歧).

Link: Finding the roots of Japan (BBC Travel) 

So how did Kumano Worship become such a big thing in Okinawa? 

That is actually quite a difficult question to answer due to the lack of recorded history. What we do know is that the Ryukyu Kingdom was a major player in the East Asian trade networks and that they learned a lot from foreigners, especially those from China, Japan and Korea. 

The influence these other nations had over the Ryukyus not only involved international trade but the sharing of technology, education, governance, religion, etc. 

What little we know about Kumano’s arrival in the kingdom comes from the Ryūkyū Shintō-ki (琉球神道記), a book authored by a Buddhist monk that documented the Ryukyuan religious experience in the early 1600s. We also know that the Futenma Shinto Shrine (普天滿宮), which was established in the 14th Century was one of the first shrines in the Ryukyus dedicated to Kumano worship, so its likely that Kumano worship spread to Okinawa well before the kingdom was established.  

In the book, monk Taichū Ryōtei (袋中良定) explains that the propagation of Kumano Worship in Okinawa was likely the result of traveling Buddhist monks who visited the islands. At that time, Buddhism and Shintoism were considered to be synchronized with each other, so it shouldn’t be surprising that Japanese monks spreading Buddhism also helped to spread Shinto beliefs as well.  

In one story, Monk Nisshu (日秀), who is credited with the establishment of the Kin Kannon Temple (金武觀音寺), used his supernatural powers to save the local village from a rowdy bunch of venomous snakes and from there stayed in Okinawa to spread Buddhism and Kumano Worship. 

Likewise there are several other stories of monks becoming shipwrecked or traveling specifically to Okinawa on exchange to spread Buddhism. None of these stories however fully explain why Kumano Worship in particular was so heavily promoted - It is safe to assume though that as Kumano was home to one of the more established Shinto sects in Japan as well being home to what many people considered to be the “Pure Land”, it was a major centre for Buddhist training which meant that many of the monks who later became missionaries would have trained in the area. 

Link: 沖縄の熊野信仰霊場を訪ねて (Japanese)

Points of Interest

There are quite a few small details to take note of when you’re visiting this little shrine and each of them serves a very specific and important purpose. Below, I’ll introduce some of the most important points of interest at the shrine that you’ll want to pay attention to, but if you’d like a more detailed introduction to Shinto Shrines, their history and architecture, I recommend checking  the link below to learn more about Japan’s traditional places of worship. 

Link: Shinto Shrine: History, Architecture, and Functions (Patternz) 

Shrine Gate (鳥居)

The gate to the shrine is known in Japan as a "Torii" gate, which simply translated into English as a ‘bird perch’. These gates are typically found at the entrance of a shrine and their purpose is to demarcate the transition from the outside profane realm to that of a sacred one. This means that once you pass through the gate, it is time to stop joking around and to be respectful. 

The Torii at Naminoue Shrine is known as a Myojin Torii (明神鳥居) which is one of the most common styles in Japan and simply means that its upper beam is curved while the lower beam is straight. Between the two beams there is a plaque that reads “Naminoue Shrine” (波上宮) and on either side of the gate you’ll find two large stone lanterns that light up the gate beautifully at night.

The gate is the largest of its kind in Okinawa and not only is it quite tall, its also wide enough to allow a lane for cars to enter on one side with pedestrian traffic on the other.  

Once you reach the top of the hill there is a second Torii gate that you have to pass through before reaching the interior section of the shrine. This gate is situated a level above the parking lot, so it allows people who have driven their cars into the shrine and parked their cars to also walk through a part of the visiting path to the shrine. This stone gate is much smaller than the first one and hung from the lower beam of the gate you’ll notice something known as the “sacred rope” or the “shimenawa” (標縄). The rope is thick and is decorated with “shide” (紙垂), which are beautifully cut paper streamers that are used in Shinto rituals. These sacred ropes are found all over Japan and have many different uses but here at the Shinto shrine it is used to help ward away evil spirits 

Visiting Path (參道)

The “Sando” (參道) or “Visiting Path” is a common feature with Japanese Shinto and Buddhist places of worship and acts as a path that leads to the Hall of Worship. The length of the path varies between shrine with some being quite short while others are several kilometers long.

The path at Naminoue Shrine is a short one that winds up a small hill and consists simply of a set of cement stairs with stone lanterns on the left and a small barrier fence on the right. As I mentioned above, the path is split into two with pedestrian traffic on the right and a road for cars to reach the shrines small parking lot. 

Once you’re at the top of the hill, you’ll pass through another Torii gate and the path to the main hall will come into view with the Purification Fountain on your left and the Administration Office on your right.    

Purification Fountain (手水舍)

An important aspect of Shintoism is something known as the "sacred-profane dichotomy". In terms of this temple, the Torii gate at the entrance of a temple separates the world of the 'sin' from that of the 'sacred'. When you walk through the gate you are leaving the world of the profane which means that you should do so in the cleanest possible manner. So in order to ready yourself for entrance into the sacred realm you would have to do so with a purified body and mind. 

As you approach the Purification Mountain or “chozuya”, you’ll notice a handy guide next to it that indicates the proper method of purifying yourself with a ceremony known as “temizu” (手水). The simple ceremony includes a few gestures that you’ll probably want to take part in if not just as a sign of respect, but because its hot in Okinawa and washing yourself with cold water is quite refreshing. 

  1. Pick up a ladle with your right hand, fill it with water and clean your left hand.

  2. Swap the ladle to your left hand and then wash your right hand.

  3. Swap hands again and pour some water into your left hand and take a drink.

  4. Wash your left hand again and then tilt the ladle vertically so that the remaining water runs down the handle.

What I really like about the Purification Fountain at this shrine is that it is situated within a tree covered area that offers visitors some respite from the sun. The fountain itself is beautifully decorated with the water spouts appearing in the shapes of dragons and the fountain itself made of a dark black coloured stone. 

Administration Office (社務所)

The “Shamusho” (社務所) is opposite the Purification Fountain and reaches as far as the Hall of Worship. The building is traditionally used to conduct the business of running the shrine and also acts as a place to allow the shrine personnel to rest. 

It is also where you’ll go if the shrine is holding a lecture or if the priests are holding special events or prayer ceremonies that aren’t held in the Hall of Worship. You’re likely to notice a long line of visitors at a window at the building as this is where you’re able to purchase good luck charms, amulets, ema, etc. from the shrine.

In the case of this shrine though, I gather that most of these public events are likely held at the Shrine Association building (神宮會館) which is directly across the street from the main gate. While not officially within the shrine area, the association building is frequently used for large public events and weddings and is where you’ll want to go if you want to rent a traditional Japanese yukata to get photos of yourself for your shrine visit.

Stone Guardians (狛犬)

One of the common features that you’ll find in the many of the places of worship throughout East Asia is that the temples and shrines are usually guarded by stone lion-dogs known in Japan as “Komainu” (狛犬). Thought to have originated in Korea, they typically appear in front of a temple and are meant to help ward off evil spirits.

Okinawa being Okinawa though, the traditional stone lion-dogs that guard the shrine have been replaced with the local version, the Shisa (シーサー), or “Shi-Shi” (獅子) in the local Ryukyuan language. The Shisa lions, I guess you could say are a distant cousin of the Komainu and are prevalent throughout the Ryukyuan islands acting as not only the guardians of temples and shrines, but also homes and businesses as well. 

The Shisa first appeared in Okinawa in the 15th Century and in the years since the lion has transformed into an image that symbolises the cultural identity of the people of the Ryukyuan islands and there are many legends in the area that tell of how they arrived.   

Link: Shisa: The Guardian Lions of Okinawa (Kampai) 

Hall of Worship (拜殿)

Shinto Shrines are renowned for their impressive ability to blend in harmoniously with the natural environment around them, which shouldn’t really be all that surprising considering that it is a religion that worships deities related to nature. 

If you weren’t already aware, the Shinto deities, or “kami” are almost always objects found in the natural environment such as animals, birds, rivers, mountains, trees, etc. For outsiders this can be a bit confusing, especially since there are eight million different kami - a number that is synonymous with infinity. 

For the Shinto, the relationship with the natural environment is extremely important given that the earth can bring both blessing and disaster. It is thought that if the kami are worshipped adequately and in a responsible way, then they will bring good fortune to the world. If on the other hand they are disrespected or neglected, they will react violently or bring misfortune. 

Essentially, respect for the environment is one of the main tenets of Shintoism and the construction of these shrines never fails to keep that in mind. With over 80,000 shrines in Japan, Shintoism contributes to society providing ecological sanctuaries that can be enjoyed by all. 

The thing is though, the natural environment in Okinawa is considerably different than what you’ll come across in other parts of the Japan. This means that what you’re going to experience at Naminoue Shrine is going to be a lot different than what you’d see anywhere else in Japan. The shrine of course keeps with tradition and is surrounded by nature, but as it is situated atop a cliff that overlooks a pristine beach, the area around the shrine is covered with palm trees and tropical plants.

The design of the Hall of Worship, or the “Haiden” likewise is unique to Okinawa as it was constructed according to Japanese tradition but designed in a way that pays homage to the Ryukyuan people, especially with with its usage of the colour red and the beautiful red tiled “Aka-Gawara” (沖繩赤瓦) roof that has become synonymous with the architecture found all over Okinawa.

The combination of the three primary colour with the red on the shrine, the green palm trees and the beautiful blue Okinawan sky makes the shrine appealing to the eye and allows it to stand out in the sunlight. 

Link: Ryukyuan Architecture in Zamami: Red Tile Roofs (The Zamami Times)

As you approach the Hall of Worship, the first thing that will stand out to you is the beautiful red roof and pillars mixed with the painted white walls. The closer you get though, the smaller details become much more apparent. 

The first thing you’ll want to take note of are the three plaques placed just below the roof - The middle plaque reads “Naminoue Shrine” (波上宮) while the plaque to its left reads: “Peace reigns over the land” (萬民泰平) and the one on the right reads “National Protector” (國家鎮護). Given Naminoue’s position as the prefectural shrine as well as Okinawa’s unfortunate history, the plaques are quite fitting to the modern Japanese philosophy of non-aggression.

Hung from the lower beam of the gate you’ll notice something known as the “sacred rope” or the “shimenawa” (標縄). The rope is thick and expertly braided and is decorated with “shide” (紙垂), which are beautifully cut paper streamers that are used in Shinto rituals. These sacred ropes are found all over Japan and have many different uses but here at the Shinto shrine it is used to help ward away evil spirits. 

In front of the doors you will find some hanging curtains with a circular logo on each - The crest, known as a “shinmon” (神紋) is the “mitsudomoe” (三ツ巴), which appears to be a comma-like swirl that is commonly associated with Hachimon Shrines (八幡神社) in Japan. 

In Okinawa however the crest was adopted as the emblem of the royal family of the Ryukyuan during the First Sho-Dynasty around seven centuries ago. In Okinawa the crest is known as the “Hidari Gomon” (左御紋) and today you’ll find it not only at Shinto Shrines, but also at Shuri Castle and in most of the imagery that represents the islands. The crest is experiencing something of a resurgence in recent years as it was banned for several decades after the Japanese took control of the Ryukyus. 

Link: 'Hidari Gomon' The Ryukyu Symbol (Budo no Kukyo) 

The crest likewise has deeper connections with Okinawa’s Shinto Shrines as it is thought that the the origin of the design was inspired by the “Yatagarasu” (八咫鳥) or the ‘three-legged crow’, a common image throughout Asia, but is closely associated with Kumano worship. If you visit any of the Kumano Shrines in Japan, you’ll see images of the crow all over the place.

Link: The Legend of Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow and its possible origins (Heritage of Japan)

Most of what you’re going to want to see from the Hall of Worship is on the exterior, but if you’d really like to walk up to the doors to take a peak inside, you’re going to want to follow tradition and first follow a few steps which will impress the locals.

First you’ll want to walk up the steps to the wooden box in front of the main doors. You can drop in a small donation (there’s no set amount), then clap your hands twice to alert the kami of your presence, then with your hands clasped together, bow your head and make a wish. When you’re done, its tradition to bow. From there you can approach the open door and take a peak inside of the shrine room to see whats happening. 

When you look into the interior of the Hall of Worship, you’re going to see a large open room with very little in terms of decoration and tables in the middle where the kami are located.

As I mentioned above, the Shinto Shrines in Okinawa adhere to Kumano Worship, one of the largest denominations (if you will) of the religion. Most of the information you’ll find online does a great job explaining the three UNESCO World Heritage shrines in the area and their history but does a poor job of actually explaining the deities enshrined within. 

Officially, the shrine at Naminoue is dedicated to the ‘Kumano Deities’ but this becomes confusing as you can’t see the actual shrine. From my research, information suggests that the shrine consists of three mirrors which represent ‘Hayatama no kami’, ‘Kotosaka no kami’ and in the middle, the group of ‘Kumano deities’. 

Where this gets confusing is that both of the gods are commonly associated and included within the group of ’Kumano Deities’ that I listed above. In this case, Hayatama no Kami, who is a water god and Kotosaka no kami, a protection deity, are likely given more importance given the importance of the ocean and farming to Okinawa. I’m clearly not an expert on this subject though, so if I’m wrong, please feel free to correct me. 

  • Left -> Hayatama no kami -> 熊野速玉大神 (はやたまのをのみこと)

  • Centre -> Kumano Deities -> 熊野大神 (くまののおおかみ)

  • Right -> Kotosaka no kami -> 事解之男神 (ことさかのをのみこと) 

Naminoue Beach

It is safe to say that If it weren’t for the beach below the shrine, this shrine would never have been built. A sacred space for the local Ryukyuan people for hundreds of years, the high cliff above the beach was the perfect vantage point for people watching ships making port in Naha from all over Asia. 

Today the view of the ocean is blocked by an elevated highway over the beach, which kind of ruins the view, but the bridge does have its advantages as it allows people to take some pretty photos of the shrine sitting beautifully atop the high cliff. 

Most notably for locals however is that Naminoue Beach is the only beach in the capital that is open to the public for recreational activities. The long white sand beach is a popular spot for locals to enjoy the scenery, have a BBQ or a picnic, play volleyball or go for a swim. 

As mentioned above, the view at the beach is obscured by an elevated highway. While this does ruin the view for swimmers, it does provide an excellent opportunity for photos as there is a walking path along the highway where you’ll be able to get some shots of the shrine sitting atop the cliff above the beach.

If this interests you, you’re going to have to walk for about ten minutes to get to the bridge but getting there is fairly straight-forward. From the main gate to the shrine continue walking down Naminoue-dori where you’ll pass by a large driving school. Continue along the sidewalk until you reach the bridge where you’ll make a right turn onto the bridge.

Getting There

Guide Map to Okinawa's Confucius Temples and Naminoue Shrine. www.goteamjosh.com/blog/kumekong www.goteamjosh.com/blog/naminuoe

Naminoue Shrine: #25-11 Wakasa District 1, Naha (沖繩縣那霸市若狹町1丁目25-11)

MAPCODE: 33 185 023

Getting to Naminoue Shrine is quite easy and is even easier if you have access to the internet and Google Maps, given the difficulty of navigating Japanese-style addresses. I’d suggest though that you travel on foot as it will give you the best opportunity to explore as well as saving time and money.

If you’ve rented a car, you’ll definitely be able to find a car park nearby where you can drop off your car and check out the area. The problem with car parks though is that the parking fees are rather expensive and if you plan on checking out the shrine, the beach and the neighbouring Naha Confucius Temple, you’re going to need a bit of time. So, if you’ve got a car, the best thing to do would be to leave it where you’re staying, take the monorail and walk. 

If you choose the latter, you can conveniently take the monorail to either the Prefectural Office Station (縣廳前站) or Miebashi Station (美栄站) and walk from there. I’d personally recommend walking from the Prefectural Office as it is a short walk and doesn’t require making too many turns, making it the easier route to navigate. The routes I’m sharing below might not be the fastest, but they require very little in terms of turning and getting lost in alleys. If you have internet access on your phone, just use your GPS and you’ll arrive in 20 minutes. 

Directions from Prefectural Office Station

From the Monorail Station you’ll exit onto a large road named Onaribashi-dori (御成橋通り) where you’ll walk up the hill in the opposite direction from the Kokusai International Street (國際通). Simply follow that road until you reach the beach where you’ll make a left turn where you’ll quickly find the shrine. 

Directions from Miebashi Station 

From Exit #2 of the Monorail Station make a left turn onto Okiei Street (沖映通り) and then walk straight until you reach the end of the road along the ocean. From there turn left again and follow the coastal path until you reach Naminoue Beach and the Shrine. 

If you’d like to take a bus, the shrine is serviced by Naha City Bus #2, #5, #15 and #45 where you’ll get off at the Nishinjo Stop. To catch any of these buses, simply go to the Prefectural Office Monorail station where you’ll find the bus stops on the road below the station. 

Link: Bus Map Okinawa (Bus Routes / Schedules) 

Tourists..

One of the most noticeable differences you’ll find in Okinawa from the rest of Japan is the absence and concentration of Shinto Shrines - Given the Ryukyu’s unfortunate modern history, it shouldn’t surprise you that there are so few left standing nor should it be surprising that the local people don’t always share a similar love of Japan’s state religion as those on the mainland. The situation with regard to cultural identity in Okinawa is a complicated one and as time passes, it tends to be one that drifts further and further apart from the rest of Japan. 

Nevertheless, the lack of shrines does make the few left standing even more important. So, if you’re planning to visit Okinawa, you can expect that your visit to this shrine to be shared with quite a few locals. 

Nevertheless, the rarity of Shinto Shrines in Okinawa makes the few left standing today important places of worship for those who adhere to the religion as well as for travelers. 

As the highest ranking shrine in Okinawa Prefecture and the largest in the capital city of Naha, Naminoue Shrine has become an important place of worship for locals as well as a major tourist attraction, so if you’re visiting the city, you’ll definitely want to stop by to check it out. 


Cyberbullying and Harassment in Taiwan

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Let me start out with a disclaimer that this isn’t intended to be a ‘woe is me’ article.

I try my best to live a happy life and take pride in the fact that I surround myself with productive and positive people, who are doing great things with their own lives.

None of what I’m about to detail affects me in the kind of way that would result in any sort of self-harm. I’m perfectly okay. Unfortunately though, not everyone is like me. This is why I’m documenting my experiences here with the hope that if anyone finds themselves in a similar situation that they can better understand their options and not make the same mistakes I have. 

For the majority of you reading this, what I’m about to talk about will all be new information. 

I’ve never been one that advertises my problems to the world, so with the exception of a few close friends (as well as others who have been affected by this), I’ve mostly just internalized all of this and not mentioned it. I think though, as things escalate, that it’s about time that I detail some of this information so that people can understand what I’ve had to endure for the past couple of years. 

Before I start though, due to Taiwan’s defamation laws, I will not be mentioning the names of anyone involved. Likewise, I would appreciate it if you would not ask me privately for this persons name. If you are one of the select few who are privy to know who this person is, please don’t write their name in any public space where I’m involved. 

You might be thinking, wow, this seems serious. 

I guess you could say that - I wouldn’t be using this space to publish this information if it wasn’t, but at the same time, its also extremely insignificant and probably just an annoyance that people like me all over the world have to put up with.

Anyway, getting to the point, I have a stalker. 

Or maybe you could say a “cyberbully” or an “online troll.” 

My Stalker Story

Whatever you’d like to call it, for the past few years I’ve had to endure the harassment of someone who has projected all their life’s failures onto me. 

Initially I was naive about all of this, so when the harassment got to a certain point, I just decided to block this person and sever any means of contact. 

The problem though is that this person has well over a dozen accounts on Twitter that they use to stalk and harass people. They’re kind of a professional when it comes to this stuff. 

So when a friend tweeted something about this person (who like myself is an expat in Taiwan) profiting by reporting local Taiwanese people for their traffic infractions, I made the mistake of calling them a “tattletale” in a public space. 

A few weeks later I received a summons from the police and was informed that I was having a defamation lawsuit filed against me. 

The seal hunt doesn’t take place in Nova Scotia. But hey, thats where I’m from.

So, after speaking with a lawyer about the situation, I compiled a folder full of the history of harassing tweets that this person directed at me. When I arrived at the police station in Taipei, the investigator in charge took a recorded interview and asked questions that allowed me to explain my side of things.

When the camera was turned off, the investigator informed me that I didn’t really have to waste my time preparing the folder full of tweets as this individual was a repeat offender (in terms of filing frivolous lawsuits) and that my being there was just a formality. He went on to explain that we had absolutely nothing to worry about and that this was going no where.  

And he was right, the lawsuit was thrown out. 

Before that happened though, I had a photo exhibition in Taipei, which I had promoted through this website and on my social media - and wouldn’t you guess it, this person showed up. 

So, in front of about fifty friends, this person (who had just filed a lawsuit against me) was just hanging out listening to my awkward speech and (probably) enjoying my photos! 

So what did I do? I took a selfie with the back of their head (more on this later)

Unfortunately this wasn’t the only time this has happened. 

I have an ex-boyfriend? Wish I knew who he was.

I’ve had this person stalk me in person on several occasions - even coming all the way Taoyuan to enjoy another of my photo exhibitions. 

When the lawsuit was thrown out, you’d think that would have been the end of it, but the ruling was promptly appealed to a higher court. Why? Because apparently *I* was stalking him. 

That case was promptly thrown out as well. 

This is where things started to get worse. 

All of this time I’ve had this person blocked but the number of accounts that they used to stalk me (as well as others in the Taiwan media community) media started growing and (unfortunately) they had a pretty good grasp of Taiwan’s defamation laws. They knew that they could basically say whatever they want as long as they were vague and didn’t use my name. 

So, for the past two years I’ve had to endure targeted harassment about my appearance, my nationality, my heritage, where I live, having a dog, writing blogs, my photos, etc. etc. etc.

It has even been put forward that since I studied Mandarin at the prestigious Peking University language school that I shouldn’t be allowed to live in Taiwan as I might be a communist spy. 

Arrest me! I’m a communist spy!

Schoolyard bully kind of behaviour - Except that this is coming from a 50 year old man.

You might think this is easy enough to ignore, but the area where Twitter fails at protecting its users is that even if you block a person, they are still able to reply to anyone who replies to you. So, even though I’ve had this person blocked for years, they spend all their time scouring Twitter for people who have replied to me just so they can get their digs in.

Fortunately the vast majority of people in the Taiwan Twitter community are well aware of what’s going on and this person and their accounts have become quite infamous.  

You might be thinking: Why don’t you just leave Twitter? 

I’ve considered that. I’ve actually put quite a bit of thought into it. 

But as I mentioned above, I surround myself with people doing great things and a lot of them are posting their work on Twitter - I don’t want to miss out on what they’re doing. 

And let’s say I did let this person force me off of Twitter, what would stop them from moving to Facebook, Instagram or anywhere I have an online presence? I can’t just let this person force me to disappear because they have some infantile vendetta. 

Its also important to mention that a lot of these cool people that I stay on Twitter for are also being stalked and harassed by the same individual and even though they haven’t had lawsuits filed against them (although many of them have been threatened), they’re more or less in the same boat as I am. 

So where have I made mistakes? 

Admittedly after a couple of years of this harassment, I thought that if I could only just get this person mad enough to say my name that I could file my own lawsuit with the hope of filing a restraining order. Unfortunately I’m not good at bringing myself down to their level and I wasn’t consistent enough so that never worked.

My mistakes were simple: 

  1. I gave this person the attention that they desired. 

  2. I brought myself down to their level. 

  3. I looked like an asshole in a public space. 

What happened as a result of these mistakes was that people who had been harassed by this person in the past started contacting me. They had stories. Scary stories. Things that person did in the country that they lived in before fleeing to Taiwan which proved to me just how absolutely sad a life they live.

They also provided advice on how to cope. 

Eventually though I decided to make my Twitter account protected to save myself from the never-ending barrage of sub-tweets. This has protected me for the time being and for the past few months I’ve completely ignored the pathetic existence of this sad individual.

This is why I’m not bothered all that much by their psychological projection - They might be an absolute failure in every aspect of their personal, professional and family life, but it doesn’t mean I need to let them drag me down with them.

I’m just going to keep doing my thing.

Unfortunately the problem is that I’m not their only target and several of my friends also had to deal with daily barrages of stupidity this person, so even though I want nothing to do with this person, people still come to me looking for advice. 

After several years of having to deal with this, all I can do is provide people with a list of the accounts I know this person use and offer this advice:  

  1. You should never reply to this person. Ignore at all costs.

  2. You should never use their name in a public space.  

  3. All harassing tweets and correspondence must be documented. 

Cyberbullying

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Taiwan’s laws don’t protect victims from stalkers, cyberbullies or serial-harassers. 

In 2015, the issue of internet bullying became a topic of national discussion when a local television personality, Cindy Yang (楊又穎) committed suicide. The high-profile young woman, who also happened to be the daughter of the Agriculture Minister, left a note that blamed her coworkers and cyberbullies for her death. 

Cindy’s death attracted a certain level of national discourse about the subject, but when the outrage over her untimely death wore off and the media moved on to the next juicy topic, the push for change likewise faded out.  

Link: Cindy Yang (楊又穎) | Family confirms entertainer Cindy victimized by online bullying

Sadly, most of the news we see these days with regard to cyberbullying originates in Korea where the angry uncontrollable masses of anonymous people on the internet seem to have figured out that they are able to bully young celebrities into submission. After a string of suicides within the K-pop world, it seems like the government there is finally starting to take the topic of cyberbullying seriously. 

Link: Cyber bullying, star suicides: The dark side of South Korea’s K-pop world

South Korea draws up cyberbulling laws after second K-pop suicide

Back here in Taiwan, in the years since Cindy’s untimely death, there have been numerous incidents where celebrities, politicians and others have committed suicide due to the concerted effort of their stalkers. 

In 2018 for example, Su Chii-cherng (蘇啟誠), the director-general of the Osaka branch of the Taipei Economic and Cultural Office, committed suicide after a barrage of fake news and online hate generated from people in Taiwan over the way his office responded to a typhoon in Japan.

Link: Osaka envoy commits suicide (Taipei Times)

While high-profile cases of cyberbullying often make the news here in Taiwan, what shouldn’t surprise you are the amount of cases that you don’t hear about - especially when it comes to children and youths. 

According to studies done on the subject, around 76% percent of youth surveyed in Taiwan have experienced cyberbullying or seen it taking place. Research from the Child Welfare League Foundation (兒童福利聯盟文教基金會) explains that the most common types of cyberbullying in Taiwan are verbal attack (61.1%), defamation (47.7%), alienation (46.1%) and doxing (40.9%). The study also found that over half (53.5%) of the respondents claimed to have been bullied online at some point in their life.  

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Links: Cyberbullying among Children and Youths in Taiwan - 2016 | “I felt angry, but I couldn’t do anything about it”: a qualitative study of cyberbullying among Taiwanese high school students. | Cabinet Approves Anti-Stalking, Harassment bill (Focus Taiwan)

The unfortunate thing is that the majority of these cases never receive any proper attention from parents, school authorities, the police or the government, so the study found that only around 43% of cases are reported in one way or another.

Adolescents report that most of these cases of online bullying originate on social media which shouldn’t particularly be surprising as Facebook and PTT (a popular forum in Taiwan) are full of so-called ‘Kaobei’ (靠北) pages where people are able to post ‘anonymous’ criticisms of others in a public forum. Likewise there are many “unofficial” school groups throughout social-media where students are able to ostracize each other in a public setting which leads not only to verbal attacks and defamation but isolation, which in an Asian cultural context is probably the worst. 

The Department of Education has attempted to address the issue by producing literature and posting it throughout schools to help educate students about the dangers of taking part in cyberbullying, but has so far has failed to come up with proper prevention programs or a system of punishment for those taking part. 

The government likewise has yet to respond with any meaningful policy or solution for punishing those who perpetrate such crimes. The only recent response is a laughable suggestion from members of Taiwan’s fringe New Party (新黨) who suggest making use of corporal punishment as a method of punishing cyberbullies. 

Link: Taiwan’s New Party suggests caning to stop cyber bullying

As a growing public health concern, if the government doesn’t find a way to offer legal respite to those people being victimized in a timely fashion, the problem is only going to continue and may eventually escalate to a point where it is going to become much more common for the victims of cyberbullying to resort to extreme actions. 

2021 Update: Once again, stalking has come to the forefront of the public consciousness with the brutal murder of a young woman in southern Taiwan’s Pingtung County (屏東縣) a man who had been stalking her for quite some time, and whom she had already reported to the police, to no avail.

Murder of Pingtung Woman Leads to Calls for Stronger Anti-Stalking Legislation (New Bloom)

Pingtung man accused of killing woman detained (Taipei Times)

Update #2: Due to the above incident, the cabinet has approved a Draft Bill against stalking and harassment that aims to broadening the legal definition of stalking and harassment and allow early intervention by law enforcement officers to protect victims.

Cabinet approves draft bill against stalking, harassment (Focus Taiwan)

2021 Update #2: The case mentioned about gave the government a little extra motivation to actually pass a law that protects people from stalkers. On November 19th, the new “Anti-Stalking Law” (跟蹤騷擾防制法) passed its third reading in the legislature and is scheduled to come into effect within the next six months.

Link: 跟騷法三讀通過!八大騷擾樣態 最重五年徒刑 (UDN)

As it stands, the law defines harassment and stalking as repeated usage of ‘persons, vehicles, tools, equipment, electronic communications, Internet or other methods’ against a specific person that violates their will, affects their daily life or social activities.’

2021 Update #3: President Tsai officially signed the new Anti-Stalking legislation into law on December 1st, and it will come into effect in mid-2022.

Link: New anti-stalking bill signed into law by President Tsai (Focus Taiwan)

2022 Update #1: Excellent news: the National Police Agency is set to establish an emergency response team in preparation for the enactment of the Stalking and Harassment Prevention act that will come into effect on June 1st, 2022. Key take away: “The new law lists eight types of behavior as constituting stalking and harassment, including spying on and trailing, following and approaching, threatening and insulting, and online harassment” which looks like reports of stalking and harassment will be handled seriously.

Link: National Police Agency establishes stalking and harassment response team (Focus Taiwan)

Motivations for Cyberbullying 

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While the issue of cyberbullying is pervasive here in Taiwan, there hasn’t been as many studies on its causes and effects as there have been in western countries. 

A study by the University of Toronto defines bullying and cyberbullying as follows: 

Bullying is a form of aggression which can be direct or indirect, and includes hostile physical, verbal, psychological, or relational behaviours towards another person. It is typically intentional, commonly occurring within an existing relationship and including some type of a power imbalance between the individuals involved. The aggressive behaviour is also usually repeated. 

Cyberbullying is the use of ICTs to engage in bullying behaviour, including intent to harm, a specific target, and a power imbalance. Involvement in cyberbullying as a perpetrator or as a victim has the potential to significantly affect children and youth’s mental health and well-being. Victimized youth often report feeling sad, anxious, afraid and unable to concentrate, and frequently experience social difficulties. Victimized youth may also be at increased rick for many problematic behaviours, such as substance use and elevated suicidality. Similarly, perpetrators are less likely to show empathy and may struggle with low self-esteem, depression, and problem behaviours.  

Despite important similarities to traditional non-ICT bullying, cyberbullying is unique in a number of ways. ICTs enable cyberbullying to occur anytime and anywhere, and victimization can take place beyond the settings where bullying occurs, potentially preventing victims from ever feeling safe. Cyberbullying can be also be more upsetting than bullying, particularly because it is hard to escape. Another key difference is the degree of anonymity involved. Although there is a perception that cyberbullying is completely anonymous, it often is not. It is a common misconception that cyberbullying occurs most often among individuals who do not know one another. Most incidents, however, actually occur among friends or acquaintances, just like bullying. Yet, while the perpetrator and victimized youth typically have some sort of existing relationship, perpetrators might be able to remain anonymous - at least for a period of time. Finally, one of the most devastating effects of cyberbullying is that the far full images and comments can circulate far and wide and for an indefinite period of time. Cyberbullying incidents may involve a limitless number of potential witnesses, perpetuating the negative consequences for the victim. Cyberbullying content is also far more reproducible as text, images and video can be distributed very quickly to a wide audience. 

Note: “ICT” (Information and Communication Technologies) refers to modes of mass-communication using the internet and social media.

Link: Motivations for Cyberbullying: A longitudinal and multi-perspective inquiry (University of Toronto)

The key takeaways here are that cyberbullying is ‘persistent’, ‘permanent’ and ‘difficult to regulate’, which is why it has a much more long-lasting effect on people than traditional bullying. 

The motivations for this type of behaviour tend to vary from place to place, but here in Taiwan researchers have found that there are many sociocultural characteristics that contribute to the pervasiveness of cyberbullying.

These motivations include: jealousy, discrimination, revenge, punishment and just for fun. 

Specific to Taiwan is that cyberbullying generally causes a “sense of isolation, helplessness, or hopelessness even producing mental health effects in the victims because people place the utmost importance on interpersonal harmony due to the Confucian values in collectivistic Asian societies.” (BMC Public Health)

While the focus of many of the studies about the effects of cyberbullying are on children, it goes without saying that it is also pervasive within work culture and almost anywhere you go on social media where anonymity gives people (like my stalker) an outlet for taking out all their anger at the world on others.

Defamation and Public Humiliation Laws in Taiwan

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While the government has a lot of work to do in addressing the topic of cyberbullying, there are a couple of laws within the criminal code (刑法) that allow people to file lawsuits against those perpetuating these types of behaviour. The problem however is that these articles are often abused meaning that the burden of proof in any lawsuit that you file needs to really strong.

If you’ve been in Taiwan long enough, you’ve likely seen photos or news stories of politicians posing in front of the court with their hands on a doorbell signifying that they’re getting ready to file a defamation lawsuit of some kind. Freedom House, which gives Taiwan a 9/30 for its ‘Legal Environment’ notes that Taiwan’s defamation laws “are frequently exploited by politicians who wield them against their adversaries within the politically polarized media landscape”. This callous behaviour and rampant misuse of the justice system has led to thousands of frivolous cases filed each year making most people in power feel like the law is a tool for silencing critics with unnecessary court battles. 

Generally speaking, what this means is that the articles of the criminal code that are currently in place are somewhat useless with regard to protecting real victims of public humiliation and defamation due to the fact that these cases fail to be prosecuted most of the time. 

The other problem, which many legal scholars in Taiwan consider to be “backwards” is that in the year 2000, libel laws started to be prosecuted under the criminal code, rather than the civil code. This is precarious for a number of reasons.  

Legal scholar I-Hsien Weng (翁乙仙) on the changes: 

“As for insult, most countries do not criminalize it because the concept of insult is too unpredictable, and criminalization would overly interfere with freedom of speech. From my point of view, if we cannot clarify facts and value, libel and insult or the legal interests which criminal defamation law seeks to protect, we will be helpless when handling actual cases. Therefore, if we want to apply criminal defamation law constitutionally, the criminal code must be amended or re-interpreted. Otherwise, we should lay the offence of criminal defamation aside.”

What this essentially means is that if you say something that someone else considers inappropriate, but not actually libelous, you could still be fined and left with a criminal record. Likewise, the real victims are often left with little ability protect themselves as the court systems are jam-packed with frivolous cases. Kelly Warner law Associates, an American law firm with an office in Taipei remarked that the major difference between America and Taiwan is that in America, “public figures, especially officials, receive less protection in defamation cases” while here in Taiwan “courts seems to prefer protecting political officials more than civilians and other public figures.” (Source)

Mossy from Ni Hao’s it Going expanded on these comments in his article about Taiwan’s libel laws: “instead of preventing rich people from abusing the criminal code, the law is now allowing businesses, politicians, and individuals to offset criticism and sue other individuals, businesses, and journalists for openly discussing factual information.” 

Link: The Problem of Taiwan’s Libel Laws - How to Avoid Being Sued

What’s worse, if you’re a foreigner in Taiwan, a criminal record could result in difficulty keeping your resident visa and (depending on the severity of the situation) you could ultimately be deported. Likewise, if you’re a tourist and you find yourself in trouble, you may be prevented from leaving the country until the court makes a decision.

So let’s take a look at the two articles of the criminal code that address Public Humiliation and Defamation and what they can do to help you out. 

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Article 309 Public Humiliation (刑法第309條)

A person who publicly insults another shall be sentenced to short-term imprisonment or a fine of not more than nine thousand yuan.

「公然侮辱人者,處拘役或九千元以下罰金。」

A person who by violence commits an offense (specified in the preceding paragraph) shall be sentenced to imprisonment for not more than one year, short-term imprisonment, or a fine of not more than fifteen thousand yuan.

「以強暴犯前項之罪者,處一年以下有期徒刑、拘役或一萬五千元以下罰金」

Link: English | 中文

Article 309 of the Criminal Code is probably the article that applies most to cyberbullying and harassment. The article states that if found guilty, the punishment is short-term imprisonment (up to two years) or a fine of either $9000 to $15,000NT.  

While the definition of public insult is a broad term according to the law, what you should keep in mind is that there are a few things to consider when making an accusation of public humiliation, especially with regard to cyberbullying: 

  1. They made negative comments directly using your name.

  2. They gave you a nickname and made negative comments. 

  3. They spread untrue or unproven information about you. 

  4. They posted photos or videos of you that are indecent or doctored. 

  5. They held a sort of “poll” online which casts you in a negative light. 

Most of this is quite straight forward, but when it comes to nicknames, you have to be able to prove that they’re referring to “you” and not just someone else in general. This can be difficult. The bar is also set pretty low for what constitutes public humiliation, so even if you think you don’t have a case against your bully, its very likely under Taiwan’s laws that you do. 

What is important to remember is that if you stand up to a cyberbully/stalker and give them the attention that they’re trying to get by responding, you’re also making the mistake of making yourself liable to become victim of a frivolous lawsuit. Don’t make the same mistake I did.  

Article 310 Defamation (刑法310條) 

A person who points out or disseminates a fact which will injure the reputation of another for purpose that it be communicated to the pubic commits the offense of slander and shall be sentenced to imprisonment for not more than one year, short-term imprisonment, or a fine of not more than fifteen thousand yuan.

「意圖散布於眾,而指摘或傳述足以毀損他人名譽之事者,為誹謗罪,處一年以下有期徒刑、拘役或一萬五千元以下罰金。」

A person who by circulating a writing or drawing commits an offense specified in the preceding paragraph shall be sentenced to imprisonment for not more than two years, short-term imprisonment, or a fine of not more than thirty thousand yuan.

「散布文字、圖畫犯前項之罪者,處二年以下有期徒刑、拘役或三萬元以下罰金。」

A person who can prove the truth of the defamatory fact shall not be punished for the offense of defamation unless the fact concerns private life and is of no public concern.

「對於所誹謗之事,能證明其為真實者,不罰。但涉於私德而與公共利益無關者,不在此限。」

Link: English | 中文

So what all of this means is that if someone is convicted under Article 310 of the Criminal Code is that at maximum you can be sentenced to short-term imprisonment (up to two years) or be forced to pay a fine of $15,000 - $30,000NT. 

This goes not only for something you say or do in person, but for anything printed or published online through writing or drawing and includes “spreading untrue statements”, “defaming by composing indecent photos or videos” and “uploading inappropriate or confidential photos or videos to the internet for the purpose of showing others”. 

This means that if you’re walking across the crosswalk and some guy comes speeding through in his car and you give them the middle finger, you could have a lawsuit filed against you. Sure, they were in the wrong, they should have yielded to pedestrians. But you hurt their feelings. 

It also means that if you get into an argument on social media and (as things usually go on the internet) the conversation devolves into ad hominem attacks, you are also liable to be sued. 

The Kelly Warner Law Firm in Taipei notes on their website that “as of June 27, 2011, a Taiwanese blogger, was sentenced to 30 days in detention and ordered to pay NT$200,000 (about $9,000) for allegedly writing a defamatory review about a local restaurant. The blogger wrote that the dish she had ordered was too salty and that there were cockroaches on the restaurant premises. The restaurant refuted these claims, sued, and won their claim.” 

Likewise in 2012, “a Taiwanese was convicted in a civil suit for defamation and was ordered to pay $8000 TWD in compensation ($270) for making insulting remarks about her sister-in-law’s breasts, claiming that the sister-in-law did not have any.“ (Source)

Link: The Discussion of Possible Punishments of Cyberbullying in Taiwan and its reflection on Education

Of special interest in the final paragraph is that you can also have a lawsuit filed against you in a civil suit. So, even if you were found innocent (or guilty) in a criminal trial, you may also have to defend yourself in a civil suit, which is considerably more expensive. You may even have to deal with both a criminal and a civil suit at the same time! 

In 2018 for example, former President Ma Ying-jeou (馬英九) successfully received a ruling in his favour in a defamation suit against television personality Clara Chou (周玉蔻). The former president simultaneously filed criminal and civil charges against Ms. Chou and demanded NT$ 10,000,000 in compensation as well as an open apology. 

When all was said and done, the court ruled that Ms. Chou had to pay NT $1,800,000 in compensation for the civil suit and she was sentences to 50 days in jail. 

Link: Ma wins NT$1.8 million in defamation suit against TV pundit (Focus Taiwan)

Civil suits however are quite expensive and unlike criminal suits, if you file frivolous charges against someone, you won’t be punished for wasting the time of the person(s) you’ve sued or the investigators who are required by law to follow through on any complaint. In fact, in a civil court proceeding, the plaintiff is required to advance the court fees, which are calculated based on the value of the claim in addition to their own attorneys fees. 

This typically causes most people to stop and think about how far they’re willing to go. 

Link: Taiwan Code of Civil Procedure - English | 中文

Civil Code Article 184 (民法184條)

「因故意或過失,不法侵害他人之權利者,負損害賠償責任。故意以背於善良風俗之方法,加損害於他人者亦同。」

A person who, intentionally or negligently, has wrongfully damaged the rights of another is bound to compensate him for any injury arising therefrom. The same rule shall be applied when the injury is done intentionally in a manner against the rules of morals.

「違反保護他人之法律,致生損害於他人者,負賠償責任。但能證明其行為無過失者,不在此限。」

A person, who violates a statutory provision enacted for the protection of others and therefore prejudice to others, is bound to compensate for the injury, except no negligence in his act can be proved.

Civil Code Article 195 (民法195條)

「不法侵害他人之身體、健康、名譽、自由、信用、隱私、貞操,或不法侵害其他人格法益而情節重大者,被害人雖非財產上之損害,亦得請求賠償相當之金額。其名譽被侵害者,並得請求回復名譽之適當處分。」

If a person has wrongfully damaged to the body, health, reputation, liberty, credit, privacy or chastity of another, or to another's personality in a severe way, the injured person may claim a reasonable compensation in money even if such injury is not a purely pecuniary loss. If it was reputation that has been damaged, the injured person may also claim the taking of proper measures for the rehabilitation of his reputation.

「前項請求權,不得讓與或繼承。但以金額賠償之請求權已依契約承諾,或已起訴者,不在此限。前二項規定,於不法侵害他人基於父、母、子、女或配偶關係之身分法益而情節重大者,準用之。」

The claim of the preceding paragraph shall not be transferred or inherited, except a claim for compensation in money has been promised by contract or has been commenced.

The provisions of the preceding two paragraphs shall be mutatis mutandis’ applied when a person has wrongfully damaged to another's status based on the relationship to their father, mother, sons, daughters, or spouse in a severe way.

Link: Litigation and Dispute Resolution (Taiwan)

Protecting Yourself 

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First and foremost, if you have any questions or need any legal advice, feel free to contact the good people at the Taiwan Legal Aid Foundation. It never hurts to ask. 

Unfortunately the Taiwanese justice system currently offers very little protection for victims of cyberbullying, stalking and harassment from further victimization. 

Restraining orders aren’t really a thing here, so unfortunately (especially for women) the sad reality is that the only way that you can get justice from these individuals is after they’ve either put you in the hospital or worse, killed you.

So, with this in mind, what can you do to avoid cyberbullies? 

Official literature suggests that you “Develop a high EQ”   

From my personal experience, I can attest that there is some wisdom to this suggestion. 

One of the most difficult lessons to learn in life is self-control and it is completely understandable and natural that when you’re being attacked that you defend yourself. 

It might however be healthier to just bite your lip. I know it is easier said than done, but instead of replying in the heat of the moment, take some time to cool off and think about the shit storm you’re about to insert yourself into and whether or not it is worth it. 

People who actively take part in cyberbullying thrive off of the attention they receive from the people they attack. If you respond to these people, you’re showing them that you’re fair game and that their attempts to get a rise out of you have been successful. This stimulates their aggressive nature and gives them more incentive to continue what they’re doing.

And yeah, even though you might think I’m crazy to suggest this, you should probably feel a bit of empathy for these people. It is important to realize that those who make a habit out of bullying others online are doing so because they are going through a difficult time and need help and support themselves. Happy and secure people don’t bully others, so there is obviously something wrong with their lives that has made them become like this. 

Don’t Respond

If someone attacks you on the internet, it’s better to not even bother responding to them. Don’t retaliate, don’t feed the troll and don’t bring yourself down to their level by responding to their attacks with attacks of your own. Don’t bring yourself down to their level. 

Block and Report 

If you feel like someone is targeting you with persistent attacks, just block them. Remove whatever access they have to you and that should remove the problem. 

And hey, while you’re at it, why don’t you report them as well? Every social media platform offers users the option of reporting abusive behaviour, so if you opt to report, you could be saving others from abuse as well. Likewise if the person attacking you is a classmate or co-worker, find the appropriate authority to report the behaviour. 

Screenshot Everything

For your own protection, it is important to learn how to take screenshots on whatever device you’re using. It is a good idea to keep a record of any or all comments that your bully sends your way. Comments on social media are easily edited or deleted, so if you have a record of the abuse, you may be able to make a case with the authorities. 

Control your Privacy 

Controlling your Privacy Settings on social media is always a good practice - even if you haven’t attracted the attention of a cyberbully. Social media is a useful tool, but if you want to protect yourself, it is important to understand the privacy settings offered by each of the platforms you use.

As I mentioned above, it’s important to block these people, but if you have an open account on Twitter for example, even if you block them, they can still see everything you post. So, you may want to consider having a “protected” account. Controlling your privacy settings as well as your friends/followers list and curating your feeds are all useful in defending yourself. 

In my personal experience, having a protected account has helped to reduce the amount of harassment I’ve received from this person. Has it stopped completely? No. They still try hard to get my attention, but they’re not getting it.

Control Yourself

When someone is attacking you, like I said, it’s better not to respond. You’ll see other sites on the internet that discuss cyberbullying giving suggestions like: “Make a 30 second rule” or “Put down your phone, go for a walk and then reply later.” How about instead, learning some self control?

  1. Don’t respond.

  2. Don’t check for updates.

  3. Don’t re-read the comments over and over again.

  4. Take a break from the internet.

  5. Learn how to manage your stress in a positive way. 

There are many other positive things that you can do with your time - Spending all day arguing and defending yourself on the internet certainly isn’t one of them, so if you can, control yourself.

Talk with Friends

When you’re being bullied, having people around you who you can turn to for support is really important. If you have the ability to reach out to others to discuss the problems that you’re having, you will have a much easier time processing what’s happening which should in turn ease your stress and boost your self-confidence.

Talk to your friends, your family, teachers or anyone you feel comfortable discussing your situation with.

Don’t internalize bullying and harassment, find someone who can support you and tell them your story.

It also helps that other people know about your situation if something extreme happens.

In the early days, we were idealistic and figured that the internet would be the tool that could bring us together as a global community and that all of the petty differences that divided us in the past would magically disappear. Unfortunately, even though the internet has changed so much about our lives in a positive way, it hasn’t been that magical tool that brings us together in the way that we imagined. In fact, society today is just as divided as it has ever been and the internet has become a tool for hateful individuals to spread their negativity on a global stage. 

I sincerely hope that at some point we figure out how to use this amazing tool in a responsible and positive way, but until then, it is important that you know how to protect yourself from the predators that are lurking throughout the web. 

I also hope that the Taiwanese government properly addresses the growing epidemic of harassment and cyberbullying and makes sensible changes to the existing laws to protect victims.

Until then, try to protect yourself, treat others with respect and try your best to make your online experience a positive one. 

And remember, Don’t feed the trolls.


Qixing Mountain (七星山)

When people think of Taiwan’s capital city, Taipei, they often think of a modern metropolis with Taipei 101 dominating the skyline and showcasing the economic might of the country. What few realize however is that the city is almost completely surrounded by mountains and nature. This mixture of the ultra-modern with the natural environment is something that a lot of cities around the world would love to have access to, but here in Taipei, its just a part of every day life as the city is and has always been defined by its mountains. 

Most tourists who visit Taiwan are already aware of mountains like Elephant Mountain or some of the others on the Four Beasts Trail, but when we actually talk about the mountains the ‘define’ the city, you don’t have to look any further than those found within Yangmingshan National Park (陽明山國家公園).

 The reason for this is because Yangmingshan National Park is home to twenty or more volcanoes in the Datun Volcano Group (大屯火山群) which have over the past two million years erupted and helped to form much of the landscape of the Greater Taipei region. 

You’ll be relieved to know though that even though there is still some thermal activity taking place in the area, most of those volcanoes have since gone dormant and don’t appear to pose any danger. The post-volcanic activity however is something that we can all enjoy the area is now home to a large collection of natural hot springs and fumaroles which have been harnessed and converted into public baths. 

Despite their historic significance, it’s likely that most residents of Taipei would have a hard time telling you the names of any of the mountains in the Datun Volcano Group with the exception of Qixing Mountain (七星山).

This is because Qixing Mountain, which is often translated (quite literally) as “Seven Star Mountain” (I won’t be using this name here) is not only the highest mountain of the group, it is also the highest peak in the whole of Taipei.

And because it has become a popular local tourist attraction for hikers, bird watchers, photographers and nature lovers! 

The mountain, which at its highest stands at 1,120 metres (3,675 ft) above sea level gets its name from an event that took place more than 700,000 years ago when it last erupted and not from anything that has to do with ‘stars’ as the English name might suggest. It name is derived from what happened post-eruption when the crater at the peak eroded and after many thousands of years created seven separate peaks on the mountain.

Today the volcano lies dormant, but the steaming fumaroles that surround it (and often cover the mountain in a layer of mist) speak to its long history of geothermal activity. 

Prior to the arrival of the Chinese Nationalists, the area we refer to as “Yangmingshan” was simply referred to as “Grass Mountain” (草山). In 1950, President Chiang Kai-Shek decided to rename the area in commemoration of Ming Dynasty (明朝) scholar Wang Yangming (王陽明) and plans were made to create a national park to preserve the natural environment. 

In the years since the creation of the Yangmingshan National Park, the area has been developed for tourism and outdoor recreation and has become a popular place year-round for hiking, cherry blossom and flower viewing, bathing in hot springs, etc.

More important with respect to this blog post is that the local government has constructed a large network of hiking trails within the National Park area and you can rest assured that the city’s highest peak, Qixing Mountain is well-serviced by these trails. Visitors to the area are provided (free of charge) several well-developed trails where you’ll be able to safely hike to the peak. You’ll also find several rest stops along the way where you can have a seat and enjoy the scenery. 

Taipei has quite a few mountains but most people would agree that hiking Qixing Mountain is probably one of those things that every resident of Taipei should do at least once in their life. If you’re a tourist visiting the country, it is also highly recommended that you take some time to enjoy some of the best scenery Taipei has to offer. 

The problem for a lot of tourists though is that there isn’t really much useful information about hiking the mountain and what little is available rarely ever gives a complete picture of how to get there, how long its going to take you or any of the other pertinent information that you’re going to need to complete the hike. 

I hope that this guide helps out with that and answers any and all of the questions you might have. 

Hiking Qixing Mountain

So you’re probably here because you’ve decided to hike Qixing Mountain and you have a few questions. Usually those questions are: “How do I get there?”. “Where do I start?”, “How long will it take?”, “Where do I finish?” and “What will I need?

I’m going to try to answer all of those questions for you here. 

Where do you start and where do you finish? 

There are three different trailheads for this mountain - One that starts a short walk from the Yangmingshan Bus Terminal and two others that are much further away (and will likely require taking a shuttle bus to get to). 

You may be thinking to yourself that the closest trailhead is probably the best, but as you might expect, the trail is much longer and you’ll end up missing out on a lot of the great vantage points for scenery that you get on the other trails. The other two trailheads start at ‘Xiaoyoukeng’ (小油坑), an area with a giant steaming fumarole and ‘Lengshuikeng’ (冷水坑), another popular spot where you’ll find some public hot spring baths. 

When it comes to where you expect to finish the hike, once again, it depends on where you start and how much you plan on hiking - If you start your hike at Lengshuikeng for example, you can hike to the peak and then have the option of either heading back the way you came or making your way toward ‘Xiaoyoukeng’ or ‘Miaopu’ to complete your hike. 

I’ve hiked all three, so if you were ask me, I’d suggest taking the shuttle bus to Lengshuikeng, hiking to the peak and then descending to Xiaoyoukeng, which is considered the ‘full circuit’. Once you’re at the trailhead, you’ll be able to get on the bus much more easily than you would if you started in the opposite direction.

I’ll talk more about the routes a little later.  

How long does it take to complete the hike? 

That really depends on what trailhead you’re starting your hike on, where you plan on finishing and how long you stop to rest or take photos. If I were to give an estimate of the amount of time it would take to complete the hike, I’d probably say that you should be prepared for around three hours, but that includes time to stop as well as for enjoying some time on the peak.

One thing about Qixing Mountain that can be frustrating is the amount of mist that covers the mountain. If you’re hoping to take nice photos of the landscape, you might want to stick around for a little while until the mist clears up. This will add on a bit of time to your hike but it is well worth your time.

What will you need for the hike? 

I recommend wearing a good pair of water-proof hiking boots or sneakers and bringing a wind-breaker / raincoat as it is often windy and damp on the peak. Here is where I’d caution you - even if its a sweltering hot summer day and you plan on doing this hike, you should probably still bring a wind-breaker with you for the hike as the temperature at higher-altitudes (in addition to the strong wind) can be chilly. 

You should also bring some water and snacks, which you can easily purchase at the 7-11 across from the Yangmingshan Bus Terminal. You’re not going to need a bunch of hiking gear for this one as it is essentially a well-developed sidewalk that just so happens to bring you to the top of the mountain.

Just don’t show up in high-heels.  

Yangmingshan’s ‘Flower Seasons’ (陽明山花季)

One thing you’ll want to make a mental note of is that Yangmingshan is home to several annual blooming seasons for different kinds of flowers or blossoms. Flower viewing, or “Hanami” (花見) is an extremely popular activity in Taiwan and is only exacerbated by wannabe Instagram celebrities who travel around the country taking photos of themselves for all the likes on the ‘gram. 

During the various blooming seasons, traffic on Yangmingshan becomes quite unbearable with thousands of people visiting each day. This means that if you plan on hiking the mountain during one of these seasons, you may have to contend with quite a few other visitors which means longer lines for the buses and traffic jams on the road to the mountain.

It also means that you’re driving a car or scooter, you’ll have to be aware that the local government puts traffic control measures in place which limits all but local traffic from the mountain.   

Cherry Blossom Season (櫻花季) - February - April (2月 - 4月)

Calla Lily Season (海芋季) - February - May (2月~5月下旬)

Hydrangea Season (繡球花) - May - June (5月中旬~6月下旬)

Silver Grass Season (芒草季) - October - November (10月-11月)

  • Just for reference, almost all of the photos in this blog post were taken during Silver Grass Season.

The Yangmingshan National Park also holds an annual “Yangmingshan Flower Festival” (陽明山花季) which is generally held for a period of two weeks in mid-February and usually coincides with the Lunar New Year holiday. If you plan on hiking the mountain at this time, good luck!

Trailheads

As I mentioned above, there are three different trailheads for hiking Qixing Mountain for you to choose from, each of which comes with some pros and cons. I’m going to introduce each of the them below and try to give you a better idea of what to expect. 

Xiaoyoukeng - Qixing Main Peak (小油坑 - 七星山主峰) 1.6km 

If you’re taking the bus, the first trailhead you’re going to reach is the one that starts directly next to the ‘Xiaoyoukeng’ bus stop, which is situated next to the ‘Xiaoyoukeng Visitor Centre’ (小油坑旅遊服務站). As you approach the stop you’re likely to notice quite a bit of mist in the air - this is because ‘Xiaoyoukeng’ is actually a giant steaming fumarole in the side of the mountain.

If you’re getting off the bus here, I’d recommend taking a few minutes to go check out the fumarole viewing area, which is a short distance away from the trailhead.  

The Xiaoyoukeng portion of the trail has the added bonus of being able to walk past much smaller steaming fumaroles throughout the hike, which makes this something you won’t want to miss. The thing is though, you need to be really careful not to get too close to them and pay attention to the warning signs.

I completely understand that your brain might be telling you that you should touch one of the steaming rocks to see if they’re really hot, but believe me, they are.

You don’t want to burn yourself and ruin your day, so enjoy their geothermal beauty while staying safe. 

One of the reasons I like this trail so much is that as you hike to the top the environment changes and when it does, so do the varieties of trees and plants that you encounter along the trail.

You’re also likely to run into a completely ambivalent local species of partridge feeding along the trail.

The trail from Xiaoyoukeng to the peak of Qixing Mountain is by far the shortest of all the trails, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that it is a good thing. The trail is actually a lot more steeper than the other two trails, so if you hike to the peak on this trailhead, you’re likely to get a bit more of a work out.

Whether that is a pro or a con is up to you - What I will say though is that the trail is often shrouded in mist from the fumarole and even though there are places to stop and check out the view, you’ll have to be pretty lucky to be able to see much of anything. 

If hiking directly the peak is your thing though, this trail is probably your quickest, no-nonsense route. 

Lengshuikeng - Qixing Main Peak (冷水坑 - 七星山主峰) 2.1km

‘Lengshuikeng’, despite its literal name “Cold Water Valley” (冷水坑), is home to popular hot spring baths where you can bathe in the public pools at a high elevation. Even though the baths tend to be quite popular on weekends, they aren’t nearly as busy as what you’d find in Beitou, so the people who visit get to enjoy their time in relative seclusion.

And the general embarrassment of a public bath. 

The area is home to not only the hot springs and the trailhead for Qixing Mountain but also a historic suspension bridge, Milk Lake (牛奶湖), a waterfall and a path that brings you to the popular Qingtiangang Recreation Area (擎天崗).

For the purpose of this blog though, the important thing is that the area is home to the trailhead for Qixing Mountain (of which there are more than one), a bus stop, a large parking lot for cars and scooters and a visitors centre with (rather nice) public washrooms. 

The main trailhead is conveniently located directly across from the parking lot and is easy to find as it is marked by not only a trailhead marker, but also has large sign with a map of the trail and some information about the hike. 

The hike on this trail starts out rather steep, but after a few minutes of hiking you’ll reach a point where the incline is much more comfortable and you’ll be able to enjoy the amazing views behind you. When you’re about halfway up the hill, you’ll reach a large Chinese-style pavilion where you can rest or take photos.

A short distance from there you’ll find the Qixing Mountain Park (七星山公園) in one direction and the ‘Meng Huan’ Lake (夢幻湖) in the other. The lake is quite beautiful, so you might want to take a detour for a few minutes to check it out.

The park likewise is a popular spot for taking night photos of the Taipei cityscape, so if you plan on sticking around to take photos, this spot is probably a good place to park your tripod.

Once you pass this area, the incline once again becomes a bit steep and after a bit of time you’ll reach the Eastern Peak (七星山東峰) where you can stop for a break.

Once there though, you’re only about 10-20 minutes away from the Main Peak (七星山主峰). 

If you’re looking for recommendations, I’d highly recommend you start your hike at ‘Lengshuikeng’.

This might mean taking the bus much further, but it also means that you’ll get to enjoy some really beautiful scenery with an ample amount of spots to stop and take some really pretty photos.

Likewise, if you aren’t planning on backtracking, it would be much easier to complete the ‘full circuit’ hike (which I’ll talk about below) so that you can enjoy both sides and easily hop on the bus at ‘Xiaoyoukeng’ when you’re done.

Miaopu Trail - Qixing Main Peak (苗圃登山口 - 七星主峰) 2.4km

For most tourists, it seems like the most commonly taken route for hiking Qixing Mountain is to start the hike at the Miaopu Trailhead (苗圃登山口). The trail is a short distance from the Yangmingshan Bus Terminal and situated directly next to the Yangmingshan National Park Visitor Centre (陽明山國家公園遊客中心).

This means that if you start your hike from this route, you eliminate the need to take the shuttle bus from the bus terminal to the other trailheads and you won’t have to wait for the shuttle bus when you complete the hike. 

Sounds great, right?  

It should go without saying that if you take this route to the peak and back down, that you’re going to be hiking for a distance of around five kilometres - which is a much longer than the other trails.

You’re also going to miss out on some of the best vantage points with regard to scenery as well as missing the steaming fumaroles at ‘Xiaoyoukeng’ and the hot spring bath area at ‘Lengshuikeng’ as this trail more or less creates a “T” between the other trails. 

The great thing about this route is that for most of the hike, you are protected under the cover of trees, so if it is an excruciatingly hot day, or if it is raining, you’ll be able to complete most of the hike with a bit of protection from the elements.

This trail though is most popular with foreign tourists (as a lot of people don’t know how to get to the other trailheads) so you’re likely to come across quite a bit of tourists along the trail.

If you’re not new to Taiwan and you’ve hiked the mountain before, I’d say that this route is probably a pretty good one if you just want to hike to the peak without the fuss of dealing with buses, traffic or any of the scenic photo spots on the other trails. For me though, hiking a mountain is never a race to the top and I would hate to go all the way to Yangmingshan and miss out on the opportunity for taking photos. 

Qixing Mountain Circuit (小油坑 - 冷水坑) 3.7km

While some people might prefer hiking to the peak of the mountain from one of the trailheads and then heading back the way they came, I’d actually suggest that you instead complete the entire hike from one side to the other rather than backtracking.

If completing the entire hike sounds better to you, take it from me, you should hop on the shuttle bus from the Yangmingshan Bus Terminal and take it all the way to the ‘Lengshuikeng’ bus stop.

From there you’ll hike to the peak of the mountain and once you’re done you can complete your hike by heading down the mountain toward ‘Xiaoyoukeng’. 

The reason why I suggest taking this route is because it is considerably easier getting on the bus at ‘Xiaoyoukeng’ than it is at ‘Lengshuikeng’ which often has long lines.

I also don’t mention the Miaopu trailhead here because that specific trail takes you up the mountain in a different direction and means that you’ll miss out on some of the best scenery.  

I know, it might seem like completing the full circuit sounds longer in terms of the amount of time and the distance you’ll travel, but if you do the math, it is more or less going to be the same and you’ll get to experience the mountain from both sides.

So completing the entire circuit is probably your best option and is what I recommend. 

Getting There

Map of routes for hiking Taipei's Highest Peak, Qixing Mountain (七星山). www.goteamjosh.com/

Hiking Qixing Mountain might be a challenge for some, but getting there is a challenge for almost everyone.

The thing about hiking Qixing Mountain is that you first have to deal with the notoriously horrid traffic on Yangming Mountain - Whether it’s going up the mountain or heading down after your hike, you’re unfortunately going to get stuck in traffic. This is part of the reason why I don’t hike the mountain as often as I’d like.

So, let’s discuss some of the best ways to get to the mountain. 

The first thing you’re going to have to decide is what your hike is going to entail - Are you going to hike the full circuit? Or are you going to hike from one of the trailheads to the peak and then leave the way you came? These are important questions to ask yourself, because it is going to dictate the method by which you get yourself to the trailhead. 

If you live in Taipei and own a scooter, or have rented one for the duration of your visit, you can easily ride your scooter up Yangming Mountain to either one of the trailheads, park it and then be on your way. The thing is though, if you park it at one of the trailheads, you’re going to have to come back down the way you came, which means that you’ll probably not be able to hike the whole trail.

There is of course the possibility of hiking the full trail and then when when you arrive at the trailhead taking a bus to where you parked your scooter, but that might end up forcing you to wait quite a while. 

Likewise, if you have a car, you could drive to either Xiaoyoukeng (小油坑) or Lengshuikeng (冷水坑) and park in one of the public parking spots. The thing about this option though is that the standard Taipei parking fees apply, so if you park in either of the parking spots for several hours, you’re going to have to pay quite a bit.

You might also think that you could just park along the side of the road and avoid the fees, but I guarantee if you do, your car won’t be there when you finish your hike.

You’re also going to have to deal with terrible traffic jams on the way down as the traffic congestion on the mountain in the late afternoon is terrible.

Scooters are okay, but I’d really caution against driving a car. 

If you’re asking me, I think your best option is to just take public transportation. 

Sure, it might be a bit more of a pain in the ass, but you’ll be happier to not have to deal with all the traffic, you’ll have the option of completing the full hike and it will be a lot cheaper. 

If you’re going to make use of public transportation, you have a number of options: 

  1. Taipei Main Station (台北車站) - Yangmingshan Station (陽明山站) - You can catch Bus #260 at Taipei Main Station’s “North 2” (北二門) exit. The bus will take you to the Yangmingshan bus transfer station where you’ll transfer to Bus #108 which will take you to both trailheads.

  2. Jiantan MRT Station (劍潭捷運站) - Yangmingshan Station (陽明山站) - From the bus terminal just outside of the MRT station take Bus Red #5 (紅5) to the Yangmingshan bus transfer station where you’ll transfer to Bus #108 which will take you to the trailheads. Conveniently, a new route (S15/小15) has been added that takes you directly from Jiantian to Qingtiangang. If you prefer to start the hike from there, this one is pretty convenient

  3. Shipai MRT Station (石牌捷運站) - Yangmingshan Station (陽明山站) - From the bus terminal just outside the MRT station take Bus #8 (小8) to the Yangmingshan bus transfer station where you’ll transfer to Bus #108 which will take you to the trailheads.

  4. Beitou MRT Station (北投捷運站) - Yangmingshan Station (陽明山站) from the bus terminal just outside the MRT station take either Bus #9 (小9) or Bus #230 to the Yangmingshan bus transfer station where you’ll transfer to Bus #108 which will take you to the trailheads.

  5. Donghu MRT Station (東湖捷運站) - Yangmingshan Station (陽明山站) from the bus terminal just outside the MRT station take Bus #681 to the Yangmingshan bus transfer station where you’ll transfer to Bus #108 which will take you to the trailheads.

You’ll probably have noticed that no matter which option you take, you’re going to have to transfer at the Yangmingshan Bus Terminal (陽明山公車站) and then hop on the #108 shuttle bus to whichever trailhead you plan on starting at.

One thing that you’re going to want to keep in mind is that there are two bus #108’s and that if you get on the wrong one, you’re not going to get to any of the trailheads. So, to ensure that you get on the correct bus, make sure you get on Bus #108 (陽明山遊園公車) and not “Bus #108區” which takes you to Erziping (二子坪).

They have adequate signage on the bus that should prevent you from making the mistake, but it’s best to remind you anyway.  

One of the most important things to keep in mind is that Bus #108 runs every 30-40 minutes on weekdays and every 20-30 minutes on weekends between the hours of 7:00am - 5:30pm.

This means that buses tend to be few and far between and if you spend too much time on the mountain, you might get stuck if you come down too late. Make sure to keep track of time and don’t expect that there is going to be room for you on the last bus of the day, especially on weekends when the trails are busier. 

Link: Bus #108 (陽明山遊園公園) Route Map (中文)

Link: Yangmingshan National Park Public Transportation (中文)

You thought I’d forget a picture of the peak?

If you need real time info for the bus stops, check the Taipei eBus website for more information. You may also want to download the “台北等公車” smart phone app which uses GPS to let you map your route more easily.

If you decide to start your hike from the Miaopu Trailhead (苗圃登山口), you won’t have to transfer to Bus #108. You’ll instead just get off the bus at the Yangmingshan Bus Terminal, cross the road and make your way to the Yangmingshan National Park Visitor Centre (陽明山國家公園遊客中心) where you’ll find the trailhead nearby. Fortunately I don’t need to offer too much in terms of directions here as the directions to the visitor centre and the trailhead are very well marked for pedestrian traffic.

If you do decide to drive a scooter or a car, the addresses for both trailheads are below. You can input either the English or the Chinese into Google Maps or your GPS which will map the best route to the parking lots next to to the trailheads. 

  1. Lengshuikeng (冷水坑): No. 170, Lane 101, Jingshan Road, Shilin District, Taipei City (台北市士林區菁山路101巷170號)

  2. Xiaoyoukeng (小油坑): No. 60, Zhuzihu Road, Beitou District, Taipei City. (台北市北投區竹子湖路69號)

As far as hiking goes, even though Qixing Mountain is Taipei’s highest peak, it tends to be one of the easier mountains in the city in terms of difficulty. You’re not going to have much trouble hiking this one, so feel free to bring your family, friends, dogs and cats along with you to enjoy the beautiful scenery and the experience.

As far as the scenery goes, if you’re lucky enough to be blessed with good weather and clear skies, you’re going to be rewarded with spectacular views of the mountainous landscapes as well as the Taipei cityscape on one side and the northern coast on the other.

That being said, weather conditions in the area tend to change quickly and the view is often obscured by the mist created by the thermal activity taking place on the mountain. So, you need to remember that even if you start this hike on a perfectly clear day, you may not end up being able to enjoy the hike as much as you’d like. If you do end up hiking on a day where there is a lot of mist, don’t feel too bad as I think there is a certain beauty on Taiwan’s mountains when they’re covered in mist and clouds.

I tend to look on the bright side and I think that even though the varying conditions on this mountain might disappoint some, it makes for a much more interesting experience. If you’re in Taipei and you have a bit of time, I highly recommend hiking Qixing Mountain as it offers one of the best high-mountain experiences that you’re going to have without traveling south.

If you do climb the mountain, have fun, be safe and be careful of the partridges.