2019 in Review

GTJ-2019-1206-8.jpg

As usual, while getting ready to write this year-end review, I took some time to go back and read over some of the previous ‘Year in Review’ posts. I hadn’t realized it, but this will be the fifth time posting one of these.

Time sure does fly.

When I started this site in 2014, I had never expected that I’d end up spending a countless amount of hours sitting in coffee shops all over Taipei, Taoyuan and Hsinchu writing blogs.

The thing is though, when I look back, I wouldn’t consider it time wasted. 

Sure, you could say that instead of spending all that time sitting around doing research, translating and writing, I could have been out taking more photos - but all those hours I’ve spent have also helped me learn so much more about Taiwan. 

And hey, I guess if I didn’t make the effort, I wouldn’t have been named one of ‘2019’s Hottest Influencers in Taiwan’, although to tell the truth, I’m not really sure how that happened.

If I’m an influence, its probably a bad one.

Raaaaaaaaaaarwwwhh Influencer!!

So, 2019 - What can I say? It didn’t absolutely suck. 

In terms of world events, things got a bit crazy, but as the year comes to a close it seems like we might be starting to rebound from some of the stupidity left over from the past few years. 

By the time you read this, Greta Thunberg has already been named Time’s “Person of the Year”, Trump is already on his way to being impeached and Sanna Marin has become the Prime Minister of Finland and consequently the world’s youngest head of state, leading a coalition of parties all run by women. 

All the crazy people on the internet are having aneurisms. It’s great.  

In terms of my own country, we had an election and (if you’re asking me) the right guy won - despite a bunch of moronic scandals and controversies. Justin Trudeau, who just might be the least terrible option we have was elected Prime Minister for a second term.

Sure, we could do better than him, but we almost could have done a lot worse with the other guy.

And hey, the other guy ended up getting the boot. (Canadian humour)

Here in Taiwan, the nation is starting to count down the days until an election that will take place in early January. President Tsai Ying-wen (蔡英文) is hoping for a second term while the goofy mayor of Kaohsiung, Han Kuo-Yu (韓國瑜) is running against her. Polling so far looks like President Tsai is sailing toward an easy win against the gaffe-prone Han, but polls are known to be wrong and who knows what will happen, so we’ll just have to wait until Election Day to know for sure.

In more important news, the long-thought extinct Formosan Spotted Leopard (台灣雲豹) made a few surprise appearances this year, giving hope that the species may be on the rebound. The government started the process of banning plastic bags and straws, which should be completely eliminated soon and after a long battle, Taiwan became the first country in Asia to legalize same-sex marriage! 

Scientists also made a bunch of cool discoveries, people did lots of cool, positive things and despite all the depressing stuff you see in the news, not everything sucks.  

When I looked back at my ‘Year in Review’ posts for 2017 and 2018, it seemed like we were all collectively waiting for those years to end so we could have a fresh start - It doesn’t seem like anyone really feels like that about 2019 though, which probably means that it wasn’t a total disaster. 

Personally though, when I read my 2018 post, I thought, “Holy hell, that was a pretty great year” - I travelled to England, Ireland, Scotland, Italy, France and Iceland.

This year? I’ve been too busy and the only vacation I had was a trip to Okinawa.

So what have I been so busy doing?

Well, this year has been the busiest year I’ve had as a so-called ‘working’ photographer.

I spent the first half of the year constantly on the road taking photos for various publications, which left me with little time for my own personal stuff. Once the summer hit, things eased up a bit for a short time and I was able to get out to do my own stuff.

That didn’t last very long though as photo requests kept coming in and I was back on the road.

When I look through my photo catalogue for this year, I’d estimate that around 85% of the photos I took were for commercial work. This isn’t all that bad though as commercial work pays the bills and in some cases affords me opportunities that I wouldn’t have had otherwise. 

Speaking of which, the highlight of my year (which I’ll talk about in more detail later) was when I was contracted to take photos of the ‘Mass Same-Sex Wedding Ceremony’ that was held in front of Taiwan’s Presidential Office. The historic event wasn’t open to the public and tickets were hard to get, so if I didn’t have a media pass, I wouldn’t have been able to attend.

As we move into a new decade, 2020 looks like it is going to be another busy year for me in terms of travel.

I’ll be starting the year with a few weeks in Vietnam and Thailand, which will then be followed by Japan a few months later and then either Nepal and/or Canada.

I’m also hoping to spend more time traveling through southern and eastern Taiwan.

In terms of personal projects, I’m still considering a few options, but as usual you can expect that I’ll be posting a bunch of blogs about temples, mountains, abandoned places and historic buildings and tourist sites around Taiwan as well as continuing to write travel posts from other countries.

As always, I enjoy hearing from people, so if you have any suggestions on how I can improve this site, questions, or places that you’d like to see me write about, feel free to get in touch with me by email or through social media.


2019 Favorite Blog Posts

This year I was busy as usual with a bunch of personal projects that included climbing a bunch of mountains, exploring temples and historic or abandoned buildings. So, I guess you could say that not much changed from years past, but I spent quite a bit of time updating, rewriting and adding new photos to old articles.

I also spent quite a bit of time writing about my two European adventures as well as my trip to Okinawa.

Below I’m going to highlight some of the work I did this year and as usual I’m going to take a look at my Website Analytics and identify the blogs that were the most popular with visitors.

1. Taipei Hikes

One of my projects this year was to write hiking guides to all of the mountains in Taipei that are considered hot-spots for taking photos of the cityscape. Although I had already published guides to some of the mountains that I featured in the guide, I went through all the individual articles, updated them and in some cases completely re-wrote them.

This also meant that I spent quite a bit of time hiking to get better photos. 

Although I had a lot of fun hiking, I did end up having to carry a lot of equipment with me, so it was a project that took a lot of effort!  

Below is a list of all the articles that I published, updated and re-wrote this year:  

Jiantan Mountain (劍潭山), Tiger Mountain (虎山), Bishan Temple (碧山巖), Fuzhou Mountain (福州山), Elephant Mountain (象山), Thumb Mountain to 9-5 Peak (拇指山 - 九五峰), Four Beasts Hiking Trail (四獸山步道), Taipei Cityscapes Guide

2. Asia’s First Mass Same-Sex Wedding

When Taiwan legalized same-sex marriage, the nation cemented itself (once again) as a beacon for human rights and democracy in Asia. The same-sex marriage issue is something that I’ve strongly supported for years, so when I received an email asking whether I was interested in covering the mass marriage event taking place in front of the Presidential Building in Taipei, I jumped at the chance to take part.

Having a media pass meant that I could freely walk around the coveted event, taking part in the festivities and sharing in the happiness of people who could finally exercise their right to marriage.

The marriage ceremony, which was set up in a traditional Taiwanese banquet-style was carefully planned to not only allow couples and their families to enjoy the experience of having a wedding, but also to allow the local and international media a chance to show how great Taiwan really is and that love is love.  

Needless to say, attending this event was one of the highlights of my year. 

Link: Asia's First Mass Same-Sex Wedding (凱道同婚宴)

3. Iceland Blogs

As I mentioned above, when I looked back at my ‘2018 in Review’ post, a lot of the photos that I chose were from the two trips I took to Europe that year. The thing is though, I didn’t actually get around to posting much on my blog about those trips until this year.  

My Iceland blog posts ended up attracting quite a bit of traffic as some of the locations I posted about don’t really have that much information online - despite Icelands popularity as a tourist destination. 

I’ve since completed the list of blog posts about the country, but I plan on adding another sometime in the new year which I’m thinking is going to act as an overall guide to travelling in Iceland with some of my personal thoughts (and criticisms). 

Below is a complete list of the Iceland blogs I posted this year:  

Hallgrímskirkja Church, Goðafoss, Dettifoss, Hengifoss, Skaftafell National Park, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Reynisfjara (Black Sand Beach), Seljalandsfoss Waterfall, Crater Kerið, Faxi Waterfall, Gullfoss, The Geysir Geothermal Area, Öxarárfoss Waterfall, Iceland’s Golden Circle

4. Lukang Longshan Temple (鹿港龍山寺)

I guess you can file this one under my personal favourite blog post of the year.

The Lukang Longshan Temple just so happens to be the oldest of all the ‘Longshan Temples’ in Taiwan and is an architectural masterpiece. The temple, which is situated in the historic village of Lukang (鹿港) on the Western Coast of Changhua County is old - and unlike most temples that claim to be “old”, this one is actually old.

I spent a considerable amount of time researching and writing this article and learned quite a bit in the process.

If you haven’t already realized this, I’m a bit of a nerd, so when I write a blog that allows me to learn new things, I’m going to be pretty happy and I was quite happy writing this one.

Link: Lukang Longshan Temple (鹿港龍山寺)

Related: Changhua Confucius Temple, Changhua Sea-Shell Temple

5. Shuri Castle (首里城)

When I visited Okinawa in May, I planned an action-packed schedule of places to visit, things to see and most importantly places to eat. When visiting the islands, it goes without saying that one of the places you absolutely have to visit is Shujiro Castle, the former home of the Ryukyuan royal family and the capital of the kingdom. 

I was fortunate to visit the castle early in the morning which meant that I was able to take photos without a bunch of tourists getting in the way - which ended up turning out quite well. 

When I came back to Taiwan, I started writing up travel blogs about the various places I visited in Okinawa and when they were done, I scheduled them to be published. The sad thing is though, on the week I had scheduled my Shuri Castle article to be published, the historic castle burnt to the ground, in what would become one of the worst disasters to happen in Okinawa since the end of the war. 

I contemplated just scrapping the article, but after talking with friends, I decided to just update the article with information about the fire and post the photos of what the castle looked like before this unfortunate disaster took place. 

I hope that the castle can be rebuilt in a timely fashion as it is an important part of Ryukyuan culture and identity. 

Link: Shuri Castle (首里城)

Related: Futenma Temple (普天間山神宮寺), Futenma Shinto Shrine (普天滿宮), Naha Confucius Temple (那霸至聖廟), Okinawa’s Kouri Island (古宇利島)


Your Favourite Blogs of the Year

In previous years when writing these review blogs, I took a look at my Google Analytics and it seemed like the same few articles were hogging all the attention. This year there was a bit of a shift in the most highly-visited articles, but the list wasn’t actually very surprising - which tells me I need to go back and make an effort to update them with more relevant information.

The five blogs listed below were enjoyed by a total of 213,593 unique visitors this year.

And in total, traffic here has increased by about 25.8% from last year, which is always good news.

  1. Thousand Island Lake (千島湖)

  2. Beitou Thermal Valley (北投地熱谷)

  3. Pingxi Crags Hike

  4. Wanli UFO Village (萬里飛碟屋)

  5. Sacred Mother Trail (聖母登山步道)


My Favourite Photos of 2019

Whenever I look through my catalogue of photos to choose my ‘favourite’ photos of the year for these yearly review blogs, it’s always a painstaking process. It isn’t easy for me to choose the photos I like the most and to tell them truth, I’m probably not the best judge as I’m quite critical of all my work.

I’m thinking that in the future, I’m going to make a list of about fifty photos and let friends go through them and choose the ones they like the best, which should save me a bit of time!

Although some of my selections you may find strange, I think these photos pretty much tell the story of my year, so I hope you like them.

1. Zhulinshan Guanyin Temple (竹林山觀音寺)

If there is one thing that Taiwan’s places of worship are great at, its showing off, and there is probably no temple that shows off better than the Zhulinshan Guanyin Temple (竹林山觀音寺) in New Taipei City’s Linkou District. 

The massive temple was completely reconstructed (at great expense) and reopened to the ‘oohs and ahhs’ of the general public in 2012.

In the years since, the temple has been recognized as one of the ‘Top 100 Places of Worship’ in Taiwan and has become a popular place of worship and for taking photos. 

Most of the time when I take photos of a temple, I walk in with a simple set up with my camera in hand and with a few extra lenses in my bag. That just wasn’t possible with this temple though - I brought pretty much everything with me - two cameras, several lenses, flash, tripod, etc. 

It should be easy to see why I’d make such an effort - This temple is probably one of the prettiest that you’ll ever visit. 

2. Qixing Mountain (七星山)

After spending quite a bit of time hiking Taipei’s mountains this year, I figured it was about time to write about Taipei’s highest peak - Qixing Mountain (七星山). Fortunately I timed my visit just right so that I could enjoy the mountain at its best - during the Silver Grass season. 

The area that we know today as “Yangmingshan” (陽明山) was once known as “Grass Mountain” (草山) thanks to the beautiful Silver Grass that grows in abundance on the mountain in Autumn, so when the grass (which is actually a weed) is blooming, people make a point to head to the national park to get photos - with the trail to Qixing Mountain being one of the prettiest places to get them.

My hiking guide for the mountain is likely to be published sometime in January, but the photos I ended up with were quite nice and I was really happy with them. 

3. Yunsen Waterfall (雲森瀑布)

I’ve made it a yearly tradition over the past couple of years to visit Yunsen Waterfall at least once a year.

The waterfall is one of the prettiest in Northern Taiwan and has become quite popular recently on social media, but to tell the truth, since I came back from Iceland, I haven’t had as much motivation to visit waterfalls. 

That being said, when Autumn rolled around and the maple leaves started changing colours, I figured that meant that it would be a great time to visit the waterfall to get some new photos. The waterfall, if you weren’t aware has some maple trees that branch over and obscure part of the waterfall, making for some pretty photos. 

Upon arrival though, I was disappointed to discover that the maples had yet to change colours, what I did find however were quite a few Instagram ladies posing for photos - some of them in bikinis (a bit strange) - so I just took some photos of them and some of them turned out nice. 

4. Silver Grass (芒草)

This year, I learned a good lesson - Never trust anything you see on Instagram! 

Despite the fact that I’m well aware that the annual Silver Grass season is between the months of November and December, I started seeing photos appearing on Instagram in October.

I thought it was a little weird, but the photos were quite nice, so I figured that it was possible that the season started a bit earlier this year, so I planned a trip to the mountains to go check them out. 

Upon arrival I quickly realized that people on Instagram are full of shit and that the Silver Grass was still needed several weeks before it would ready for photos. I did end up enjoying a nice hike, so not all was lost - and I did end up heading to the mountains a few weeks later to take this photo. 

Lesson learned. 

5. Flame Mountain (火炎山)

Flame Mountain (火炎山) became of the most popular hikes in Taiwan over the past year or two with flocks of Instagrammers heading there to take their sexy Instagram selfies. The mountain, which has been nicknamed “Taiwan’s Grand Canyon” (台灣大峽谷) is quite picturesque and is a great place for taking photos. 

The reason for the sudden popularity of the mountain is because it was off-limits for a few decades due to the fact that it became a protected nature reserve for several species of migrating birds. Now that it has re-opened, it has become one of the most popular weekend hikes and is now home to another rare species, the ‘Instragramus Celebritius’.

Link: Flame Mountain (火炎山) 

5. Chi Chia-Wei (祁家威)

One of my personal highlights of my year as a photographer was being contracted to cover the Mass Same-Sex Wedding Ceremony in front of Taiwan’s Presidential Palace the day after same-sex marriage was legalized in Taiwan. Marriage equality has been an issue that I’ve cared about for quite a long time, going back to my high-school years in Canada when we too were fighting for legalization at home. 

While covering the event I was busy running around getting photos of all the couples that were getting married and some of the smaller events happening inside. When Mr. Chi made his appearance though, I tried to get as close as possible and used the few moments I was allowed to take a couple of portraits of him. 

If you’re not aware, Mr Chi is a legend in Taiwan who has spent the majority of his life fighting for same-sex marriage and educating people about LGBTQ issues. He was one of the first people to come out in public and over the years has worked tirelessly to not only help change peoples perspectives on the issue, but lobby the government to enact change.

Link: Asia's First Mass Same-Sex Wedding (凱道同婚宴)

6. Taipei Popcorn

If you’ve read my blog closely this year, you probably know that I’ve developed somewhat of a ‘dislike’ for Instagram and the wannabe celebrities on it - especially all the “Internet Beauties” (網美) in Taiwan.

The thing is though, I like Instagram as a platform and there are quite a few people on there who are doing really cool things. One of those people is Taipei Popcorn, a New Zealand born expat living in Taiwan - who just so happens to be one of the coolest queens around.

I’ve followed Popcorn for quite a while and always enjoy the different styles of portraits and all the different costumes she wears, which are always so much different than the standard model poses you see all over the internet.

I was really happy to finally meet up in person at the Mass Same-Sex Marriage Ceremony that took place right after Taiwan legalized same-sex marriage. 

Popcorn was on stage that night performing with several other queens and put on a really good show. Even though I was there covering the event for a magazine, I took a bit of time to watch the performance and took some shots that I would later pass on to all the talented queens. 

I like this shot not just because of the pose, but the colourful background obscured by smoke.

Taipei Popcorn - Instagram | Facebook

Taipei Sunset

Could you call yourself a photographer and not take a photo of the Taipei cityscape at sunset at least once a year? I’m not sure.

I spent quite a bit of time this year hiking through the various trails around the city that allow for beautiful views of the cityscape for my Taipei Cityscape Guide - Each time I made a point to stick around at least until sunset to see if I was going to be lucky to catch a good one and on a few occasions I did! 

It is easy to see why taking photos of the cityscape is so popular - even though there are already thousands of photos like this, its always nice to have a stocked library in case someone comes wanting to buy one of these iconic photos. 

HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPY NEW YEAR

As always, I hope that despite all the weird and wonderful things that happened this year that you had a great one and I sincerely hope that this new decade is going to be a better one for all of us!

Happy New Year everyone! 新年快樂!

Josh.

Kin-Kannonji (金武觀音寺)

Okinawa is known for its beautiful beaches, amazing food and slow pace of life. This just might be why the local people have one of the longest life expectancies in the world. Nicknamed the “Land of the Immortals”, the islands have the highest rate of centenarians in the world.

Even though diet is probably the largest factor, it is also said that the slower pace of life and carefree attitude of the locals, despite all of the adversity that they’ve faced over the past few centuries has certainly contributed. 

Suffice to say, the past couple of centuries have been rather disastrous for the Ryukyan people. Once a powerful kingdom that made its riches from international trade, Okinawa fell under the subjugation of the Satsuma Clan, the Tokugawa Shogunate, the Meiji Empire only later to become one of the most important focal points of the Second World War.

Despite all of this, the people of Okinawa are resilient and are proud to display their culture and all that they’ve been able to accomplish in the decades since the war ended.

Sadly much of what Okinawa lost over the past few centuries has been difficult to completely restore and many of the places that tourists flock to today, including Shuri Castle, Naminoue Shrine, Futenma Shrine, etc. are all recent reconstructions that have allowed the local people to bring back some semblance of normalcy to their lives. 

Even though the Okinawa of today has been completely rebuilt and redeveloped, the fact remains that finding anything that pre-dates 1945 is extremely rare.

The Kin Kannonji Buddhist temple, located in the central area of the island was one of the few buildings lucky enough to survive the war and even though it is a bit of a distance away from the capital, should be one of those destinations on every tourists itinerary.

The temple is located within the small coastal town of Kin (金武町), which is home to Camp Hansen, one of Okinawa’s largest military bases. The town is a bit of weird one that seems almost completely devoid of life during the day, but apparently comes alive at night in order to cater to the American service men and women who live in the area. 

Known as the birthplace of Okinawan “Taco Rice” and for its production of the local Okinawan rice wine “Awamori”, there’s not much else in the area apart from its beautiful Buddhist Temple, which has been designated as a protected cultural relic.

Still though, a trip to Kin is well worth the short drive out of Naha, if only for checking out this historic place of worship which not only includes a Buddhist temple, but also a Shinto Shrine and a beautiful limestone cave. 

Kin-Kannonji (金武觀音寺)

Starting out with its name, “Kin Kannonji” (きんかんのんじ) literally means the ‘Kin Kannon Temple (金武觀音寺), which simply tells us the location of the temple and who is worshipped inside.

In this case, it is the Buddha of Compassion, known in Japan as “Kannon” (觀音). 

If you’re unaware, the ‘Buddha of Compassion’ is referred to by several different names in the many countries of Asia, but is one of the most commonly worshipped Buddhist figures.

Interestingly, even though most people in Asia regard ‘Kannon’ as a goddess-like figure, in Tibet,  the Buddha of Compassion manifests as the “Dalai Lama” who has traditionally been reincarnated as a male and historically has acted as a god king of sorts.

While Kannon most often appears in a female form in Eastern Asia, it is quite common to find statues that appear to be androgynous, leaving the gender of this all-important Buddhist figure somewhat unimportant.

Link: Guanyin (Wiki)

Kannon

The temple was established in the early 16th Century by a famous Japanese monk Shonin Nisshu (日秀上人) whose arrival in Okinawa is the stuff of legends. The most likely explanation is that he set off from Japan to search for the so-called “Pure Land”, a mountain island paradise, which is thought to be where Kannon lives. Unfortunately while on route he was shipwrecked by a typhoon and washed ashore in the Kin area, saved by the local villagers.

Upon his arrival, legends insist that he used his strength with the dharma to perform some miracles that greatly improved the lives of the local citizens (more on that later) which elevated his status in the community and allowed for him to start his missionary work and the construction of the temple. 

Although the actual date of the temple’s initial construction isn’t documented very well, most agree that its history dates back to 1522, which is relatively the same period as when Nisshu arrived in the area.

I suppose you could say that the exact date of the temple’s construction isn’t really all that important though. The original burnt to the ground in the 1930s and the building we see today was a pre-war re-construction.

When you walk down the visiting path, you are met with some standing statues of Amida Buddha, which are likely going to be wearing the popular floral pattern t-shirts that you’ll see everywhere in Okinawa. Once you’ve made it past them, the path opens up to a large tree-covered courtyard with a garden to your left, the cave entrance to your right and the temple directly in front of you. 

Keeping with tradition, the design of the temple is simplistic in nature and is constructed entirely of wooden columns that support a visually impressive curved roof. When it comes to Japanese temple architecture, there really is a tremendous amount of beauty in its simplicity and this temple is a stunning example of that. 

The foundation is elevated above the ground using stone and wooden planks that help to protect the structure from earthquakes. The interior is constructed entirely of local wood and is a large open space with only a few wooden pillars helping to support the roof. There are also sliding doors on all sides that (when moved) change the dynamic of the room and allow for fresh air and light to enter.

In terms of decoration they keep with tradition and take a very minimalistic approach to the design of the room - At the main door you will be met with an incense urn where you can purchase some incense or some lucky charms (based on the honor system) and say a little prayer.

You can’t actually enter the room on your own, but the doors are quite large, so you can get a pretty good view of the interior from the outside.  

You’ll find another altar sitting between two pillars which that opens up to the main shrine where the resident monks do their daily prayers.

The main shrine is a simple set up consisting of a statue of Kannon (觀音) with wood-carved statues of Amida (阿彌陀佛) and Yakushi (藥師佛) on either side.

In front of the shrine you’ll find two stone lanterns which help provide a bit of light in the room, but not really enough to take nice photos of the statues from a distance. 

The most notable aspect of the temple (design-wise) is the ‘Irimoya-zukuri’-style roof (入母屋造) which is the Asian version of a ‘hip-and-gable’ roof - but a hell of a lot cooler.

In this specific style of roof, there is a main section known as the “moya” (母屋) covering the central core of the building, while the hipped portion known as “hisashi” (廂) extends well beyond the interior portion and the outside veranda. 

The amazing thing about this design is that the size of the roof (in comparison to the lower part of the building) means that its weight has to be supported by a complex system of brackets and supporting blocks which expertly distribute weight and ensures that the building is structurally intact. 

While the design of the roof is quite typical for Japanese temple architecture, what sets this temple apart is the usage of native Okinawan red tiles known as “Aka-Gawara” (沖繩赤瓦), which is quite common for construction throughout the Ryukyu islands, but almost non-existent in Japan. The red tiles, which have faded somewhat over the years blend in quite beautifully with the wood that was used to construct the temple and makes the building shine in the sun. 

Next to the temple you’ll find the administration office where you can go to purchase some good luck charms, seek some spiritual advice or just have a friendly chat. The staff that work at the temple are often quite busy maintaining the grounds, but they are really friendly and appreciate visitors, especially tourists who want to learn about the area. 

While touring the grounds it‘s likely that you’re going to notice that the area is covered by a couple of really large trees. These trees are also considered sacred as they date back to the construction of the original temple and are anywhere between 350 - 400 years old. You’ll notice that the trunks have decorations on them and that the area around the tree is well taken care of. It is also quite common to see local visitors taking family photos in front of the trees.

Nisshu Cave (日秀洞) / Kin Shrine (金武宮)

A 270 meters in length and a depth of about 30 meters, the famous cave that sits directly beside the temple is named, “Nisshu Cave” after the monk who founded the temple. Considered to be hallowed space in Okinawa, the cave is highly regarded not only because it is the home of a small Shinto Shrine, but also because it is partly used as a storage area for locally produced Awamori rice wine (泡盛).

One of the main reasons why the cave is considered sacred to the local people however isn’t because of the shrine or the rice wine stored inside - It is thanks to a local legend that serves as the basis for the creation of the shrine and the temple. 

The legend tends to vary a bit but the more realistic story goes a little like this: In 1552, when Buddhist Monk Nisshu (日秀) was attempting to return to Japan after spending years in China on pilgrimage, he was washed ashore in Kin when a typhoon hit. Rescued by the villager, he wanted to show his appreciation, so he set out to vanquish a disorderly bunch of (extremely venomous) Habu snakes that had infested the cave and were blamed for wreaking havoc on the locals. It would take some time, but when he was finally successful in ridding the area of the snakes, he placed some hand-carved images of the Buddha, Yakushi (彌勒佛) and Kannon (觀音) in front of the cave to act as a protective seal.

The more imaginative version of the story on the other hand tells of a single giant Habu snake, which lived in the cave and would slither into town, drink all the water in the well and on its way back home would have its way with local farm animals. When Nisshu appeared he used his supernatural powers and chanted Buddhist sutras at the entrance of the cave which eventually drove the snake away permanently. 

Whichever story you prefer, the origin of the temple is a direct result of whatever happened at the cave back in the 1500s and the safety that the townspeople could finally enjoy was repaid through their gratitude and the construction of the temple.

The cave has a set of stairs that allow you to descend to the cave floor and explore the interior - The further you go down however the darker and damper it gets, so you’re going to want to watch your step. If you have a light on your cellphone, you might want to turn it on so that you can see where you’re going. Once you’ve made it to the bottom of the staircase, the view looking back at the surface is quite beautiful with all the limestone stalactites hanging from the roof of the cave. 

Once you get to the bottom you’ll notice there is a gated cave door that blocks you from walking any further. This dark cavern leads to the Awamori storage area and (unfortunately) isn’t part of the free tour. 

Since 1949, the Kin Tatsu-no-Kura (龍の蔵) company has stored bottles of their locally produced rice wine in the cave for anywhere between five and twelve years. The company offers three daily tours of their section of the cave, which is filled with thousands of bottles of expensive wine.

The rice wine is as a popular local gift with many people electing to buy a bottle of the wine and having it stored at their own cost for well over a decade for special occasions. If you’d like to visit this section of the cave, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee of ¥400 for one of the tours (11am, 2pm, 3:30pm). 

Link: Tatsu-no-Kura (Okinawa Travel Info) 

The Kin Shinto Shrine (きんぐう) is a quaint little shrine located within the Nisshu Cave next to the temple. Despite the fact that it is not a full fledged shrine like Futenma Shrine or Naminoue Shrine, it is considered to be one of the ‘Eight Shrines of Okinawa’ (沖繩八社) meaning that it is still quite important. Enshrined within the hokora (祠) are the three popular deities worshipped as the “Kumano Sanzan” (熊野神) and are also worshipped at most of Okinawa’s other shrines. 

The history of this little shrine doesn’t seem to have been very well recorded, but what I’ve been able to find is that the legend of the monk Nisshu’s arrival in the area dates back to 1552 and the Buddhist Temple outside was established shortly after. It is also thought that this shrine was the first in Okinawa to worship the Kumano deities, so if that were true, it would have to pre-date the Futenma Shrine, which was constructed shortly after the Kin Buddhist temple under the patronage of the same king.

It is important to note that when the temple was constructed in the 16th Century, the relationship between Buddhism and Shintoism was considered to be symbiotic in nature, so when Nisshu arrived in Okinawa, he brought with him his knowledge of Buddhist philosophy, but he is also credited as the person who started ‘Kumano Sanzan’ worship in the Ryukyus. 

Unfortunately during the Meiji Era (明治), the government made Shintoism the state religion and instituted a policy known as “Shinbutsu Bunri” (神仏分離) which forced the separation of Shinto and Buddhism (which was regarded as a foreign influence). This meant that shared spaces within shrines were no longer permitted. 

This policy however had little effect on this temple and the two continued their symbiotic relationship allowing worshippers to visit to pay their respect to Kannon and the Kumano Sanzan as well.

Unfortunately when most tourists descend into the cave, they tend to pay more attention to their beautiful surroundings and easily pass by the small shrine without paying much attention to it. It might be small, but it is one of Okinawa’s most historically significant shrines, so stopping for a minute to check it out and pay your respects is always a good idea. 

Getting There

 

Address: 222 Kin, Kin Township District, Okinawa (沖縄県金武町金武222)

MAPCODE: 206 140 144

If you’re driving a car to the temple, simply input the Map Code provided above and your GPS will navigate the best route to the temple. The drive is quite simple as you’ll just need to get yourself on the Okinawa Expressway heading north eventually exiting at the Kin IC

From there you’ll follow Route 329 into the downtown area of Kin and will make a left turn when you see signage for the temple. You can park your car in the free parking lot directly opposite the entrance to the temple. 

You’ll want to keep in mind that the expressway in Okinawa requires a toll, so when you get on the highway you’ll have to grab a ticket and you’ll pay when you exit. If you are driving directly from Naha to the Kin Exit, you can expect to pay about ¥600-700 each way. 

Link: Okinawa Expressway Tolls

If you plan on visiting the temple and want to use Okinawa’s public transportation network, getting there is actually quite straight forward. From the Naha Bus Terminal you’ll want to board  Bus #77, which should take about 110 minutes to arrive at the Kin (金武) stop. From there you’ll almost instantly notice a large white road sign that reads: “Kin-Kannonji” which is about a 230 meter walk away from the main road. 

Link: Okinawa Bus Route List

Before heading back, you might want to take some time to walk around the streets and explore the alleys of Kin, which seem to cater exclusively to the US Army stationed at nearby Camp Hansen. The area is full of seedy bars and pubs and during the day most of the town is boarded up with little to no activity which is a bit odd compared to the rest of Okinawa. 

Coincidentally one of the only places in town that is open during the day is Okinawa’s famous “King Tacos” which serves up extremely filling Taco Rice dishes. If you’re hungry and want to get something to eat before heading to your next destination, you may want to consider stopping by and trying out this tasty yet weird Okinawan specialty.  

If you’re heading to Okinawa to spend most of your time on the beach, you’re sure to be delighted as there are over a hundred world class beaches to choose from. If you’re like me however and enjoy taking in a bit of history during your travels, you might end up feeling a bit disappointed.

The sad reality is that there are currently few buildings that pre-date the war, but this little temple was one of the lucky ones that was spared and has been able to withstand the test of time. It is easy to visit Naminoue Shrine or Shuri Castle, but if you want to see something truly historic, you’ll definitely want to make your way out to the small coastal town of Kin to check out its beautiful Buddhist temple


Shen’Ao Elephant Trunk Rock (深奧象鼻岩)

Note: It has been brought to my attention that authorities have recently started condoning off areas in front of Elephant Trunk Rock. This is meant to prevent people from getting too close to the high cliffs or on top of the Elephant Rock itself. This could be a preventative measure but it could also be a permanent one - If your sole purpose of visiting is to get on top of the “head” for a photo, you may want to hold off for a bit.

Shortly after my arrival in Taiwan, my friends and I planned a trip to the offshore Penghu Islands for a national day long-weekend of island hopping. On our second day we hopped on a boat and headed to beautiful Qimei Island (七美島) where we were led around on a scooter tour to see some of the sights. 

I could hardly contain my excitement as we were led to one rock formation after another. 

The first stop was “Little Taiwan” (小台灣), a rock formation that looked like Taiwan. Shortly after that we arrived at the “Waiting Husband Reef” (望夫石), a giant rock that we were told was supposed to look like a woman waiting for her husband to come back from the sea. Finally we were taken to the “Twin Heart Weir” (雙心石滬), a collection of rocks cleverly arranged in the shape of a pair of hearts that was at one time used to catch fish, but today catches more Instagram likes than seafood.

Suffice to say, I was unimpressed. 

I was of the opinion that instead of wasting time checking out boring rock formations, I could have been lying a beautiful beach or learning about the local area and its long and interesting history. 

Even though it was a long time ago, I still remember the day quite clearly as it was the day that cemented my aversion to anything that has to do with Taiwan travel and rock formations.

Its not that there aren’t cool-looking rock formations, I think the Nanya Peculiar Rocks (南雅奇石) are pretty cool, I just have a lack of imagination when it comes to claims that these rocks are taking the shape of anamorphic objects.

But hey, thats just me. To each their own, right? I might not be a fan, but that doesn’t mean you’re not going to find large groups of people filling tour buses to go check this stuff out. 

If you’re interested in knowing where almost all of those ‘rock-formation tour buses’ have been heading recently, its almost always going to be to Shen’Ao (深奧漁港), a small fishing harbor on the northern coast of Taiwan.

Thanks to a bit of Instagram magic, this once off-limits destination has become a hot spot thanks to a rock formation that just so happens to look like an elephants head. 

I’m not afraid to admit that when a hiking trail becomes popular on Instagram, I’ll join in on the action to see what all the fuss is about - When its a rock formation though, I’m going to be stubborn and take my time.

So here we are, after several years of avoiding it, I’m finally writing about the Elephant Trunk Rock.

I might be a bit late to the game here, but this post isn’t for Instagram fame, its for those wanting to visit and not having any idea how to get there.  

Elephant Trunk Rock (象鼻岩)

So, ‘Elephant Trunk Rock’ - What exactly is it? 

I’m not a geologist, so let me try to explain: It is a rock-arch on the top of a high cliff overlooking the ocean that just so happens to look like an elephant with its trunk lowered into the ocean for some water. 

Does it really look like an elephants head? Well, yeah, actually it does. 

And that is why it has become such a popular location for weekend travelers. 

When you visit the area, not only can you take photos of yourself standing in front of the ‘elephant’, but you can also scale up the back of its head and get photos of yourself standing on top, which is Instagram gold. 

The “Elephant Trunk” is officially named the “Shen’Ao Promontory” (深澳岬角) and is part of Fanzi’Ao Mountain (番子澳山) which separates the harbor port and the cape. Once a military-controlled zone, the area only opened to the public around the year 2000.

It would take quite a few more years however for it to become an internet sensation. 

The lower portion of the mountain near the shoreline features rocks that you’ll notice are similar to those that you’ll find at Yehliu (野柳), Peace Island (和平島) and many other areas on Taiwan’s north coast - These rocks, which often appear in the form of honeycombs and other shapes are the result of thousands of years of weathering and erosion.

Link: Yeliu Natural Landscape (Yeliu Geopark) 

Once you’ve finished checking out all the cool rocks and have progressed a bit further up the mountainside you’ll notice that the cape offers great views of the northern coast with Keelung to your left and Ruifang to your right. You’ll also be able to see the popular tourist town Jiufen (九份) in the distance next to Jilong Mountain (雞籠山)

The main attraction however isn’t the beautiful coastal landscape, it is the Elephant Trunk. 

Once you’ve arrived, there are is a long flat area where you’re likely to find a bunch of people taking photos. This area is the best for taking wide angle shots of the rock as well as for taking photos of your friends who are standing on its “head”. 

If you want to get on the “head” area, you’ll have to climb down a small rock area and then walk up a flat incline. If you decide to try to get on the head, be careful when you’re going up and down as you don’t want to slip and fall into the ocean. 

A gentle reminder that you’ll want to be careful when visiting this area - There have been fatal accidents in the past few years with people taking photos. (See link below) 

Link: 夫拍照轉身驚見妻墜海 瑞芳秘境「象鼻岩」傳憾事 (TVBS) 

Even though Elephant Trunk Rock has become a popular photo spot for local Instagrammers, the area was already quite popular with local snorkeling and diving groups for quite some time. The waters at the base of the trunk area feature a tunnel where you can enjoy some spectacular scenery and beautiful coral.

The current in the area is quite strong though, so if you want to try your hand at snorkeling, you should go with friends and be exercise caution. .

Link: Elephant Trunk Rock (Follow Xiaofei)

Before you arrive at the entrance to Elephant Trunk Rock, you’re going to notice signs pointing you in the direction of “Indian Chief Rock” (酋長岩), another rock formation that (if you’re into stereotyping) is supposed to look like the head of an “Indian Chief.”

Let me blow off a bit of steam here. 

Taiwan is a great country, but there are occasions, like this one, where I have to scratch my head at some of the stuff I see - If you take into consideration the persecution that the local indigenous peoples have had to endure over the past few centuries, you would think that a modern Taiwan would be a little more sensitive to this kind of racial stereotyping, especially when it comes to native peoples.

I could be accused of being a bit sensitive here, but if it were only the rock, I might just forget about it. Unfortunately there are also quite a few signs and images in the area that point to North American indigenous peoples being savage war-like killers. Its not cool and is completely unnecessary. 

Needless to say, I won’t be sharing photos of any of that stuff here. 

Getting There

 

Getting to the Elephant Truck Rock can be a bit of a hassle if you don’t have your own means of transportation. If you’re lucky enough to be traveling with someone who has a car or a scooter though, you shouldn’t have any problem. 

To get there all you have to do is follow the Northern Coastal Highway (北部濱海公路) until you reach Shen’Ao Fishing Harbor (深奧漁港) where you’ll drive in and find a parking lot. If you’re coming from Keelung, you’ll just want to follow the coastal highway until you arrive. If however you’re coming from Taipei, the fastest way to arrive would be to take Highway Number One and then switch to the #62 Expressway that will take you all the way to the coast. Once you reach the end of the highway, you’ll just have to make a left turn and the harbor is a few minutes from there. 

Once you’ve arrived at the harbor, drive your car all the way down the narrow road until you reach a newly constructed (paid) parking-lot where you’ll have quick access to the trail that leads to the Elephant Trunk Rock. 

If on the other hand you’re relying on public transportation to get there, you’re going to have a bit more of a difficult commute. It shouldn’t be that difficult, but you’re going to have to take a train or a bus, and then walk. 

The first thing you’ll want to do is either take a train (or a bus) to Keelung Station (基隆車站) where you’ll then transfer to a bus that will take you along the beautiful coastal highway. 

You have the option of taking either bus #791 or #1051 from the train station to the Shen’Ao bus stop. From there you’ll simply walk through the fishery harbour until you reach the entrance to where you’ll find the Elephant Trunk. 

Link: Bus Schedule - Bus #791 / Bus #1051

You could likewise take the Pingxi - Shen’Ao rail line’s (平溪深奧線) tourist sight-seeing train to Badouzi Station (八斗子車站) and from there walk to Shen’Ao harbor, which should only take about 15-20 minutes. If you’re not a fan of walking, you could likewise hop on one of the buses mentioned above which are both served outside the train station. Keep in mind though that you’ll want to get on the bus on the train station side to save yourself from heading back to Keelung. 

A few years back when fellow blogger Alex Kunz visited the area, he noted that getting to the rock was a bit difficult and that the trail was more or less unmarked. The sudden popularity of the area over the past few years however has completely changed all of that. The area is now clearly marked with an excessively large paid parking lot constructed near the entrance. 

Likewise, the trail is quite easy to follow and is well-travelled meaning that you’ll be able to safely walk up with trail and won’t get lost. From the entrance, you can expect around a five minute walk to the viewing area for the rock, but depending on the amount of people visiting, you may have to wait in the narrow sections of the trail.

Jilong Mountain and Jiufen in the distance.

You may have noticed that I’ve been a bit tongue in cheek with this blog post - Its true that I’m not a big fan of rock formations, but I’m willing to admit to you that if you’re looking for a rock formation that actually looks how its advertised, then you’ve come to the right place. There is an uncanny resemblance.

That doesn’t mean I’ve changed my mind about rock formations though, I’m going to continue to avoid them. If you like them though, Taiwan’s northern coast is full of them and you’re going to really enjoy yourself if you take a tour of the area.