Photo Post

The Tuba Church at Night

Note: As of September 2019, the Tuba Church is closed and a gate has been constructed to block access to the church for both the local indigenous community and tourists alike.

The period of closure is currently unknown due to a land dispute with the land owner holding the local community hostage for the price of $10,000,00NT.

Until the church reopens to the public, I’ll leave this notice here. If you are planning on visiting the area, make sure to check local news to see if it’s reopened or now.

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A year or so ago I wrote about the historic stone TUBA Church in the mountains of Taoyuan. The church which was constructed by the Atayal People (泰雅族), one of the largest Indigenous groups in the country, is a semi-popular stop off for weekend day trippers visiting Taoyuan and one of the many interesting tourist spots in the area.  

Over the past few months the church has become quite popular with the photographers of Taiwan who visit at night to try to get some shots of the church with the stars in the background. I've seen some really nice shots of the church on Instagram over the past few months but the success of the photos are extremely dependent on the weather and Taiwan's mountains aren't always the most reliable places when it comes to that. 

Admittely, the shots I'm sharing today of the church are all from my second visit to the church. The first time I visited was supposed to be a clear night but just after I arrived clouds rolled in and getting the shots that I wanted wasn't really an option. 

This kind of thing is common in Taiwan though, so undeterred from my first failure I planned to take another trip out there on a night when the weather was looking good enough to try again.  

When I arrived on my second attempt there were quite a few photographers hanging out trying to all get the same shot. Clouds rolled in quickly after I arrived though and almost all of them took off. Since I had just arrived I decided to be patient, watch a video on Youtube and wait to see if the clouds would pass. 

Luckily they did and the photos I'm sharing here today are the result. I hope you like them.  

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If you haven't read my original post about the church, here is a bit of history that I pulled from the article to explain it: 

The church was constructed by the Atayal people (泰雅族) in 1963 as a place for the people of the remote Tuba tribe (基國派) to worship. The tribe built the church with their own hands using stones that were carried one-by-one from the nearby Sanmin Batcave (三民蝙蝠洞).

The small place of worship was used between 1963 and 1992, but ultimately became too small for the growing population of the tribe which took a much more modern approach to the construction of their new church which was constructed nearby. 

After the congregation moved to the newer church, the original fell into a state of disrepair due to a lack of usage and maitenance. The community realized however that the church was not only an important part of the tribes history but also had cultural value that could help the people of Taiwan learn more about the tribe.  

Today the church stands in its original spot and is celebrated as a monument to the preservation and cultivation of Atayal culture and history and is now recognized by the government as a national historical monument.

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How did you get these shots?

Some people have asked how I was able to take these shots and what equipment was neccessary.

All you need is a camera, a wide-angle lens, a tripod, a remote control (would be great) and patience. 

Truthfully it doesn't matter what camera you are using as long as you have the ability to control its functions. You'll need to learn how to take Long-Exposure shots and that is quite a bit easier if you know how to use your camera's Bulb Mode with a tethered remote control to control your timer.  

If you don't have a remote control with your camera, it's fine, just set your camera to Manual or Shutter-Priority Mode and turn the dial on your camera to your desired exposure time. Once you press your shutter button make sure that your camera is stabilized by the tripod and you don't move it. Any movement between the time the shutter opens and closes is going to mess up your shot.   

A friend suggested that I spent quite a bit of time in Photoshop doing post-processing work on these photos to achieve these results. 

I'm going to let you in on a little secret - The shots I'm sharing today were taken while my camera was tethered to my iPhone 7. Each shot was directly fed onto my phone and I used Google's Snapseed Photo Editor to post-process these photos - each photo taking no more than one minute of work.  

You don't need the biggest and best camera with the most expensive lenses to take shots like these. You also don't need to spend a lot of time working on them in Photoshop. Anyone can take these kinds of shots, so don't be afraid to learn about your camera and its functions!  

If you have a chance to visit the church at night I hope the weather cooperates and you get some great photos!  

Neihu Red House (內湖紅樓)

When tourists think of Taipei, I think its pretty safe to say that the city’s Neihu District (內湖區) isn’t really a place that attracts many of the city’s visitors. The district is most well-known for its technology park and its giant shopping centres rather than its cultural or tourist attractions.

Things are changing however and Neihu is quickly becoming one of the most attractive residential areas in the city with beautiful parks, great shopping and an excellent public transportation system that allows residents to get back and forth quite easily.

In the past a lot of these places were somewhat inaccessible to tourists visiting the country but now that Taipei’s MRT system runs through the district, the U-bike public bicycle share system is available and the public bus system has been refined, it is much easier for people wanting to visit some of the sights that are available.

Neihu has its fair share of beautiful parks for families to visit, mountains for hikers to climb, temples for the religious (and people like me who think they’re cool), historic buildings as well as great shopping, fine dining, small night markets and of course a giant Ferris wheel that gives great views of the city.

The Neihu Red House (內湖紅樓) which is conveniently located next to the Taipei MRT’s Wende Station (文德捷運站) is celebrating its one hundred year anniversary this year. Originally the home of Neihu Village’s mayor Kuo Hua-Jang, the building was designated a historical site in 1999 by the Taipei City Government.

 History

The Kuo family came to Taiwan in 1690 from China’s Fujian province. The family was quite well off which allowed for the family of merchants to turn into a family of scholars with several members taking the Imperial Examinations and achieving the rank of “scholar” (秀才).

One of those scholars was Kuo Hua-Jung (郭華讓) who in 1920 became the first official mayor of Neihu village (內湖庄) and served two successful terms. As mayor he was well known for his successful infrastructure projects which include the construction of bridges, roads and public water service.

As the Kuo’s were a family of accomplished scholars, they naturally built their residence next to a school (Today’s Neihu Senior High School) and in 1917 construction commenced on what we now call the "Neihu Red House" (內湖紅樓) but is otherwise known as the Neihu Kuo Family Ancestral Home (內湖郭氏古宅).

Today the Red House is known as the (Guo) Kuo Ziyi Memorial Hall (郭子儀紀念堂) and is dedicated to Kuo Ziyi (郭子儀), an ancestor of the Kuo family who lived lived between 697 and 781 and was known formally as Prince Zhongwu of Fenyuan (汾陽忠武王).

Kuo was an accomplished Tang Dynasty (唐朝) general who is most well-known for ending a rebellion and participating in expeditions on behalf of the emperor against the Uyghur’s and Tibetan’s. Once regarded as the most powerful general in the empire and was regarded as the person who single-handedly saved the Tang Dynasty from destruction.

Today the Neihu Red House has changed its role as a mansion to an ancestral shrine dedicated to one of the most influential members of the Kuo family. The main hall has a shrine dedicated to Kuo Ziyi and the rest of the building acts as a memorial hall for both Kuo Ziyi and his good friend, poet Li Bai (李白) featuring displays of his poetry and his calligraphy.

Design

Originally constructed in 1917, the two story south-facing red-brick home beautifully puts baroque architecture (巴洛克式風格) on display. As I’ve mentioned in several blogs already, especially those about the Daxi Old Street or Hukou Old Street, baroque is a style of architecture which was extremely popular with the wealthy of Taiwan over the last two centuries.

Baroque was an architectural style that originated in 16th Century Italy and spread throughout Europe and then eventually here into Asia through colonialism. The style is said to promote dynamism or a sense of motion with strong curves and beautifully sculpted decorations on the surface or the facades of buildings.

Here in Taiwan, Baroque was introduced in the early 19th century when the Japanese took control of the island and promoted modern construction techniques. The fusion-style architectural design was supposed to differentiate the buildings of the colonial era from those of the Southern-Chinese architectural style that was most common prior to their arrival.

Baroque design quickly became popular with the wealthy and higher educated members of Taiwanese society who preferred to build their homes and businesses with not only modern construction techniques but also the fusion of both Western and Eastern design which would have been considered great for their reputations around town.

Today there are still quite a few well-preserved buildings of baroque-origin throughout Taiwan - If historical design is one of your things you are certainly in luck when you visit as there are tourist streets full of this type of architecture in addition to buildings like the Presidential Palace which are all great examples of this style of design.

The 100 year old house is a 130-ping (426m²) two-story building with a courtyard area that is over 360-ping (1178m²). The exterior of the building is constructed entirely of red-brick with washed terrazzo and coloured tiles which were imported from Japan while the interior is made of beautiful Taiwanese cypress (檜木) that shines when the sun when the sun comes in through the windows.

The front facade of the building is where the baroque style is most prevalent. The windows on the front of the building are irregularly shaped with a curved balcony on the second floor, twelve beautifully designed tiles on the sides and two plaques on each side of the doorway.

The top gable of the building is where the design is the most beautiful with an ornamental western-style flower wreath wrapped around the Chinese characters “汾陽” (fenyang) and the date for which the building was constructed.

The gable is one of the most common characteristics of baroque design in Taiwan and the restoration project that restored the building did an excellent job paying homage to the original design of the gable which after a century is still protected by stone lions on the top.

Renovation

Despite receiving recognition from the Taipei City Government as Historic Property in 1999, the Red House remained abandoned and was in a dilapidated state until 2010 when the Kuo family got together and raised funds to restore the building. The family raised over $30 million NT to contribute to the project (1 million USD) and the Taipei City Government shelled out $10 million NT (300,000 USD) of its own to help restore the building.

With the funds in place to start the project the building underwent a year-long facelift under the watchful eye of a master craftsman who specialized in the restoration of historic properties - and who also happened to be a member of the Kuo family.

Before the restorations started the Red House was probably one of the coolest historic properties within Taipei city limits for Urban Explorers searching out abandoned buildings. Photos I’ve seen of the house before the restorations started make me really wish I knew about the house when I first arrived.

I would have loved to have seen it in its dilapidated state as the house was completely taken over by nature and almost faded into the mountain behind it as it had trees and brush growing all over it.

A year after the project started the building reopened to the public and was renamed the Guo Ziyi Memorial Hall as the family wanted to memorialize an influential ancestor. From the photos I’ve seen of the building before the project started, I’m actually quite surprised that it only took a year to complete. There was a lot of work to do and restoration projects of this size usually take a considerable amount of time here in Taiwan.

 Getting There

 

Visiting the historic Neihu Red House is extremely easy now that the Taipei MRT services the Neihu District of the city. Simply take the MRT to Wende Station (文德捷運站) on the Brown Wenhu Line (文湖線) and leave via Exit 1. Once you are outside the stairway to the house is almost next door. You can’t miss it.

The house is open to the public from 10am to 5pm everyday except for Mondays and entrance is free of charge.

As the Neihu Red House is currently celebrating its centennial, it is a great time to visit to enjoy a bit of Taiwanese history. If you’re into architecture, design or history you’ll really enjoy a visit to the building as the craftsmanship that went into its construction is quite amazing. You don’t need a whole lot of time to visit the building and it won’t take you very long to get there as it is an extremely convenient place to visit. If you’re in Neihu visiting the Moon Bridge or hiking one of the many mountains, you’ll probably want to stop by and check out this beautiful old building.


Tham Khao Luang Cave (ถ้ำเขาหลวง)

I've lived in Asia for more than a decade now and over those years have amassed a large archive of photos that I eventually plan on using for future blogs. Admittedly however I’ve been extremely slow in getting to them. When I opened this site I hadn't really expected the blog to turn out the way it has but I think that is probably a reflection of not only wanting to show my photos but also tell their story at the same time. 

Since I've started blogging I have spent so much time working on specific projects with regard to Taiwanese history and culture that I’ve pretty much put all of my other work on hold and there is  a major backlog of photos from all over Asia that need some attention.

Today I’m going to take a break from blogging about Taiwan and introduce a pretty cool little spot just a few hours outside of Bangkok. 

Before I start, I’m going to have to remind people that today I’m blogging about Thailand. Not Taiwan. Thailand and Taiwan are two completely different countries. I don’t know how many times I’ve had to explain this over the years but its better to start out with a bit of a disclaimer.

Thailand is an amazing country with a great history, culture and of course one of the best countries to visit if you’re a foodie - It isn’t however the kind of place a timid small-town inexperienced Canadian boy should be visiting if he’s not able to be assertive. When I first visited the country to do research for my thesis I have to say that I was extremely overwhelmed and had a difficult time adapting.

Since then I’ve been to Thailand on several different occasions and I have come to love visiting the country. With it being such a short flight from Taiwan, it has one of my go-to countries to visit when I need a quick and cheap vacation to relax, eat great food and recharge.

There are a lot of places that I could post a blog about with Thailand - Bangkok itself has a plethora of tourist attractions and beautiful spots to write about. I think however that most of these places have had their stories told a million times while the place I’m blogging about today is a little bit lesser known and is a few hours outside of the capital city.

My last trip to the Kingdom of Thailand was simply to have a relaxing vacation in the resort town of Hua Hin (หัวหิน). The small town on the northern part of the Malay Peninsula is a popular destination for tourists who want to enjoy beautiful beaches and a resort-like atmosphere while at the same time enjoying the amazing culture and cuisine that Thailand has to offer.

The plan was to spend a few days in Bangkok seeing some of the sights before making my way down south for a week of relaxing on the beach and then heading back to Bangkok with a few stops along the way to check out some places that I’ve wanted to see for a while. 

Hua Hin's Historic Railway Station

The place I was most excited to visit was located in Phetchaburi Province (เพชรบุรี) just a hundred or so kilometres south of Bangkok known as the Tham Khao Luang Cave (ถ้ำเขาหลวง).

The cave wasn’t particularly a popular tourist attraction for international tourists but I had seen photos of it several years prior to my visit and it instantly attracted my attention. 

In the end, my visit to the cave ended up being the highlight of my trip and I enjoyed it so much that a photo of it has been the cover picture on my Facebook profile in the years since I visited.

Interestingly on the same day I was touring the cave, the 2014 coup d'état led by Royal Thai Armed Forces (กองทัพไทย) was taking place in Bankok. The coup was to become the 12th time the military felt it had to step in and take control of the government since the Siamese revolution of 1932.

While I was underground in this peaceful cave the army was rolling in and taking control of the government, establishing 'order' in the capital, repealing the constitution and forming a caretaker government which until today still hasn’t relinquished control of the state.

All of this made was more complicated last year by the death of the much-loved King Bhumibol Adulyadej (ภูมิพลอดุลยเดช) which sent the country into a period of even greater uncertainty.

So what made this cave so attractive to me?

Why did I want to visit it?

I would say the simple answer is the light - The light in the cave is a photographers dream. 

Light shines down in the cave on the beautiful golden Buddha statues from a hole above creates an atmosphere almost like any other.

It's almost as if the Buddha’s are being transported up to the Starship Enterprise.

The possibilities for photography here are amazing and if you are at the cave at the right time of the day when the sun is in the right spot you are in for a real treat. 

Inside the cave there are over 180 different statues of the Buddha at the various stages of his life as well as pagodas and a shrine where monks and volunteers perform religious rituals, sell religious offerings and work to maintain the cleanliness of the temple.

When you visit you will no doubt see groups of faithful Thai people praying or meditating in front of the largest Buddha statue which makes for an interesting cultural experience as well.

The cave is a short stop off of Phet Kasem Road (ถนนเพชรเกษม), otherwise known as Thailand Route 4, one of the country’s four major highways and is just north of Phetchaburi (เพชรบุรี).

When you arrive you are met with a large car park and then you need to take a short walk up a hill to arrive at the entrance.

While walking up the hill and hanging out in the car park you’ll need to make sure you’re aware of the gang of wild monkeys which can be a bit aggressive if you are carrying food. There are quite a few of them hanging out along the path to the cave entrance and you’ll be under their watchful eye the whole time.

Who doesn’t love walking up a hill surrounded with wild monkeys though?

When you walk down into the 27 meter deep cave you are met with a large chamber filled with stalactites (cave spikes) on the ceiling, a shrine with a large Buddha and several different paths leading to different chambers of the massive cavern where you will find several different displays of Thai Buddhist statues.

As you enter the cave the first thing you’ll notice in the large cavern is not only the size of the main chamber but the beautiful three meter high golden Buddha which sits off to the right.

There is somewhat of a makeshift shrine set up in front of it where visitors will present offerings and also meditate and pray.

To the left of the stairs is a narrow corridor which leads to some of the other chambers in the large cavern. Each of the chambers has several statues of the Buddha at the various stages of his life but I think the most significant of all of them is the long statue of the reclining Buddha which is a popular image in Thailand that depicts the Buddha at the moment of his death.

You should take a bit of time to walk around the different chambers and check out the statues which in most cases date back to the 1800s.

One of the main attractions for me (and I’m sure most others) however was the light that shines in from a large hole in mountain above the cave. As I’ve mentioned above, the shape of the hole is the perfect size and shape to allow for a large cylindrical beam of light to shrine in the temple.

The sunlight that shines down into the cavern in conjunction with the golden Buddha statues and the haze of burning incense turns an ordinary cave into something absolutely spectacular.

History 

Historically the cave is of significance to the people of Thailand because several of the statues were cast by royal order of both King Mongkut (พระบาทสมเด็จพระจอมเกล้าเจ้าอยู่หัว) and his son King Chulalongkorn (พระบาทสมเด็จพระจุลจอมเกล้าเจ้าอยู่หัว). The two monarchs were of tremendous importance to the development of a modern Thailand and both instituted reforms which modernized the country promoted democracy.

You may know a bit about King Mongkut and Chulalongkorn from popular entertainment as they were both featured in the novel “Anna and the King of Siam” by Anna Leonowens which has since spawned several different film adaptations, television shows as well as musicals.

King Mongkut in particular spent quite a bit of time in the cave during his years as a monk using it as a refuge to devote himself to meditation and the study of Buddhism.

Standing in the beautiful cave with the sunlight shining down on you, I’m sure you’ll instantly understand why this place was a favourite refuge for the Thai royal family. Today it is open to the public free of charge and is a place that everybody can enjoy!

 Getting There

 

If you are travelling from Bangkok the cave is about an hour and a half away from the capital or about an hour from Hua Hin. There are a number of options to get to the cave and basically when you’re in Thailand you can negotiate your own way so you’ll have to consider how you want to travel based on your budget.

  1. You can catch a bus to Phetchaburi and then from there rent a Tuk Tuk or a cab to the cave.
  2. You can catch a train from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station and from Phetchaburi rent a Tuk Tuk or a cab to the cave. (The train will take 4-5 hours)
  3. You can hire a cab out of Bangkok or Hua Hin and negotiate a price.
  4. You can arrange a tour with several stops along the way out of Bangkok or Hua Hin.

If you prefer to arrange a package tour, check around Khao San Road in Bangkok they often have signs outside of their shops which show the schedule of tours and their prices. A packaged tour will allow you to see a few different locations and let you meet new friends!

For more information about getting to Phetchaburi or directly to the Khao Luang Cave click here

Rest well big guy! 

The Tham Khao Luang Cave isn’t a huge tourist attraction - You’re likely to find a lot more domestic tourists checking it out than you will foreigners.

If you are heading down to Hua Hin I’d say that a stop over at the cave is probably one of the most interesting things you’ll do on your trip. If you’re looking for an interesting day-trip out of Bangkok and want to avoid the floating-market tourist traps this is a really good place to visit and can be combined with a few other locations. If you’re a photographer looking for instantly beautiful photos in a cultural setting, this is definitely one of the best places to visit.

If you do plan on visiting, enjoy it and take some beautiful photos!


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Photos)