2021 in Review

Every year when December rolls around and I start thinking about writing one of these yearly review posts, I’ve made it a habit to look back at what I’ve written in the past to see how I was feeling about the year prior, and of course, my expectations for the new year.

Even though I feel like the concept of a “New Year” is arbitrary in terms of how things are going, people generally like to believe that things may improve from the year the just passed.

Looking back at my review posts from 2019 and 2020, I was certainly optimistic.

In retrospect, I guess you could say I was pretty naive. 

Now that 2021 has come and gone, I’m not sure the positivity that I typically try to have for the new year will really shine through this time around. 2021 was a messy for the the world, and even more so personally.

And 2022 looks as if it is going to be more of the same given the way this new variant is infecting people. 

Still, I’ll try my best to be positive. 

I think we all started 2021 hoping that we would be able to put this terrible pandemic behind us - things were improving and the world was starting to vaccinate itself against COVID-19. Unfortunately the virus has continued to mutate and all of these variants is making a return to normal quite difficult.  

As I’m writing this, the situation back home in Canada is completely out of control and Christmas is all but ruined with many families cancelling events, and provincial governments putting caps on gatherings. 

Obviously, I think it’s important that people should be free to make their own decisions about their health, but vaccine hesitancy has clearly prolonged this pandemic, and we all have to suffer for it. 

Here in Taiwan, 2020 was pretty much a COVID-free year - We lived life as usual, and it was admittedly pretty awesome. Things were so great that the vaccines purchased by the government were close to expiring as there was little interest or need to take them, unless you were traveling abroad. So, in April I did my part and marched over to a local hospital with some friends to get my first shot.

Ironically, as we were sitting there waiting for the nurses to give us the okay to head home, news started leaking out that there was an outbreak in Taipei - and from there things went a little nuts. 

Fortunately, the government here in Taiwan doesn’t really mess around, so as the outbreak spread across the capital, we were swiftly put to lock down, and I found myself stuck at home, with a full compliment of toilet paper and food to ensure that I’d be good for whatever was going to happen. 

Even though I was fully prepared for the lockdown, this is where my year went to shit. 

Shortly after my vaccination, my girlfriend visited the hospital to have something checked out.

It turned out that she had an irregular tumor, and it had to be taken out as soon as possible, so she was admitted to the hospital and put on a list for surgery. Unfortunately for us, that same hospital was dealing with the outbreak of COVID infections and it was put on lock down, which delayed her surgery.

After ten days of lying in a hospital bed, she was finally able to have it removed and the entire time I was stuck at home worrying as I was unable to visit due to the lock down. 

While recovering from the surgery in the hospital, the bad news came that it was cancer, and she’d have to go through about six months of treatment. There was pretty much nothing I could do while she spent the next month in the hospital, so I was stuck at home bored and depressed at the same time. 

Thankfully, I have a large library of photos that need attention, so I was able to spend quite a while working on old photos, and ended up starting a project to share ‘collages’ of different spots around the world on my social media. At the same time I spent quite a bit of time updating and improving things on this website. 

Personally, I find that doing something productive is one of the best methods of combating depression, so I did my best to keep myself busy and worked my ass off.

Something you may have noticed this year is that I’ve slowed down when it comes to posting new articles. Sure, the lock down was one of the reasons for this but in lieu of new articles, I spent a considerable amount of time updating older articles and in some cases completely re-writing them. 

Having been at this blogging thing for a few years now, I’ve streamlined the process of writing and how I present things - I’ve also learned considerably more about some of the things I write about, so some of the articles required updates, and being stuck at home alone for so long gave me that opportunity. 

As my girlfriend was preparing to leave the hospital, one of the things we discussed during our daily phone calls was that her mom had always wanted to start a real-life version of “Happy Farm” (開心農場), so I took some time and found a suitable location, and rented a plot of land. 

Before we started planting anything though, I had to grab my trusty hoe to divide the land up into plots. I quickly discovered that my hands aren’t really all that suited for hard labour. I finished every day with a bunch of blisters, and a sore back. Fortunately once they got back home and started the process of planting veggies, it became a great activity for mom, daughter and myself to get out of the house for a bit.

Thankfully, my services aren’t needed as much on the farm these days but we get weekly deliveries of fresh organic veggies and herbs, which is great! 

As summer came, the outbreak settled down a bit and we started venturing out. It had been months since I had my camera out of the house, so I did my best to visit as many places as I could during my free time, traveling down south and back a couple of times. 

I said earlier that I would find a way to be positive, so here it goes…

I’m happy to report that my girlfriend’s treatment has been a complete success, and life has returned to normal here in Taiwan with the COVID situation under control!

When she got out of the hospital, as a show of support, I let her shave my head, and I kept it shaved for the duration of her treatment. Now that she’s finished, her hair is growing back, and mine is back to normal. 

Things may look bleak for the world at the moment, but personally I’m thankful that I have my best friend back, and that she’s happy and healthy. 

Having gone through cancer treatment myself during my university days (a very mild form of skin cancer), I can understand her current outlook on life when it comes to making positive changes, so the coming year seems like it will be one that will see some big changes for our lives, and that is something to look forward to. 

Wherever you are, I hope that 2021 wasn’t entirely terrible, and that you have something positive to look forward to in the new year. I’m a firm believer that we should make an active effort to hope for the best, and more importantly learning from our past mistakes so that we can evolve past this pandemic and return to life as usual (with some obvious changes to some of the ways we did things before!)

As I move on, I’ll touch on the direction I’ll be heading in with some of my blogs in the new year. Then, as usual I’ll list my favorite blogs of the year (hint: They’re not yours!), and then talk about the blogs that y’all seem to appreciate the most. Finally, I’ll end with some of my favorite photos of the year.

Plans for the New Year

One of the things that seems to change on a yearly basis is the style of which I process photos.

As my post-processing skills have improved over the years, I’ve taken inspiration from other photographers, and my style has evolved to the point where I feel like I’m finally finding a balance. There is still quite a bit of room for improvement and I’m still learning, but I’m in a place where I’m feeling happier with the photos I’ve been producing.

So in the new year, I plan to keep refining this style and hopefully the photos I’m producing will be nicer. 

Interestingly, I’ve discovered that the direction I’ve taken with my blog articles over the past few years, namely those related to the Japanese-era, aren’t really what most readers care about as they tend to be the ones that attract the least amount of traffic. 

To solve this issue, I’m going to focus more on… no wait.. I’m going to keep posting about what I want to write about! I do have quite a few travel-related blogs prepared for the new year, so I’ll be adding some articles that (hopefully) people other than myself care about. 

That being said, I have a long list of Japanese-era related stuff to post about and even more to visit, so this year will be likely remain more or less the same as those in the past. I will continue working on an ambitious project related to the railway in Taiwan that should encompass dozens of articles, so I hope that someone out there will appreciate all the work I’ve done documenting this important part of Taiwan’s history.

Similarly I will continue visiting Martyrs Shrines, Confucius Temples, Martial Arts Halls, etc. to improve on already existing projects. 

And hopefully at some point we’ll be able to travel outside of Taiwan for a much needed vacation!

Your Favorite Blogs of the Year

2021 has been a bit of weird one in terms of traffic on this site, given that most of my articles are travel-related and very few people this year had the ability to travel (or required travel recommendations). That being said, those articles that received the most attention this year differ slightly from years prior, so I’m happy to see a bit of variety in this year’s list.

The blog that attracted the most attention this year was the comprehensive Cherry Blossom Guide I wrote a few years back. This is one of my articles that gets updated quite often, so even though the blossom season only lasts for the first few months of the year, I’m happy to see that it continues to be of use to people. 

The article I wrote about the (mostly abandoned) Wanli UFO houses a few years back continues to attract quite a bit of attention with urban explorers and local media. I had never really expected this article to amass even a fraction of the traffic that it has received, but for the past few years it has been one of my most popular articles. I actually have the area on my list of places to visit so that I can get more photos, so I hope to update it at some point with new photos. 

Honestly, this one was a bit of a surprise to me - I posted this blog about central Taiwan’s Yuanzui Mountain a few years back, but it suddenly became quite popular over the past year attracting a considerable amount of traffic. It’s possible that the hike has become more popular over the past year or two, so lots of people are looking for information about it - If that’s the case, that’s pretty cool. This article however is another that I have slated for an update as I’d like to get better photos as well as do a bit of rewrite on the information I provide. 

Having the Tainan Confucius Temple pop up on my list of most high visited articles this year was also a bit of a surprise. The article was published a few years back, so the sudden amount of interest in it remains a bit of a mystery to me. Of course I’m pleased that people are taking interest in one of Taiwan’s most historic temples as it deserves quite a bit of recognition. But when I look at the articles that are attracting a lot of attention, I often feel like I should update them. I have plans to visit Tainan in the new year to visit some other important destinations, so perhaps another trip to the Confucius Temple is in order!   

Similar to last year’s results, the article detailing my experience with a stalker in Taiwan has attracted quite a bit of attention over the past year. Truthfully, it should probably be in the number two spot in terms of analytics, but as usual I prefer to focus more on positive experiences. For the longest time, Taiwan’s laws have been quite terrible at dealing with weirdos like this - often to very detrimental effects on their victims. So it seems that the information that I provide in the article has been useful (or eye-opening at least).

Looking on the bright side, the government passed new legislation regarding punishment for cyberstalking and harassment, which are slated to come into effect a few months into 2022, which is absolutely great news and will require a bit of a rewrite of the legal information provided in the article.

Some of your other favorites: Stegosaurus Ridge (劍龍稜), Wuliaojian (五寮尖), Qixing Mountain (七星山), Fire Mountain (火炎山), Four Beasts Hiking Trail (四獸山步道), Gullfoss Waterfall, Trinity College Library.

My Favorite Blogs of the Year

As I mentioned earlier, the blogs I’ve produced this year that I appreciate the most haven’t even come remotely close to those that those of you visiting the site enjoy the most. I’ve come to realize over the years that the odd things that I spend time researching and writing about aren’t exactly everyone’s cup of tea, but I still feel that it is important to document relics of Taiwan’s history as best as I can. With that being said I feel like I’ve published some important articles this year that I think deserve a bit more attention. 

One of the articles that I spent a considerable amount of time on this year was an introduction to the Japanese-era remnants of Daxi (大溪), a historic village nestled in the mountains of Taoyuan.

The article introduces the various Japanese-era buildings that remain in the village today and provides links to those that I already have published articles about. This remains to be one of my ongoing projects and the article will continue to updated throughout the new year. 

Another one of my projects this year involved rewriting and updating my articles about Taiwan’s remaining Japanese-era Martial Arts Halls. These buildings often feature the most traditional of Japanese architectural design, and just so happen to be some of the most beautiful Japanese-era buildings that remain in Taiwan today.

While updating some of the articles, I decided that it would be better to have an article that contained all of the important general history of these halls, their purpose, and why they were important before linking to those that remain in Taiwan today.

The end result is the most comprehensive and most detailed introduction to these Martial Arts Halls that exists in the English language, which is something I’m quite proud of. 

Perhaps one of my most ambitious articles of the year, I covered a topic that is barely even covered in the Chinese language, apart from those who may have written a masters thesis on the subject. Essentially I spent a considerable amount of time in the library researching how the Taiwanese government has adopted the ‘public-private’ approach with regard to the conservation of historic buildings. Obviously paying for the restoration of all of these historic buildings requires a considerable amount of public funds, so the government has followed the lead of some European countries in allowing for the participation of public enterprises in order to recoup some of the funds that were committed to preserving historic buildings around the country. 

In the article I used a beautiful Japanese-era police dormitory that was converted into a hip coffee shop in Taitung as a case study for how these partnerships are working across the country, and how they have allowed the government to restore so many historic properties across Taiwan.

While writing about the Japanese-era, I often spend a lot of time speaking to how much development took place over the fifty year period of colonial rule. It is important to also recognize however that while that development was taking place, atrocities were also common place.

In order to completely control Taiwan, the Japanese ended up murdering those who resisted, which includes a considerable amount of the indigenous population.

For this article I hiked through a thick bamboo forest while being chased by angry mountain dogs in search of this ‘loyal spirit monument’ erected as a memorial to the Japanese soldiers who perished during one of these massacres. The little-known monument just outside of the popular tourist town of Sanxia doesn’t receive much attention, but it is a part of the dark history of the Japanese-era and telling its story was one that left me with a sinking feeling in my gut for quite a while.  

Finally, in what was one of my only temple-related blog posts of the year, I finally got to writing about one of my favorite Taiwanese places of worship, the Taiwan Prefectural City God Temple.

As the first place of worship dedicated to the City God (城隍爺) constructed in Taiwan, this historic temple is also one of the oldest places of worship in the country, and is a pretty popular place for locals and tourists alike.

Unfortunately very little has been written about the temple in English, save for short blurbs about its age. Seeking to rectify this problem, I did my typical deep dive about the history and architecture of the temple and ended up publishing one of the most in-depth articles about the temple in any language. 

My Favorite Photos of the Year

I tried my best to get out with my camera as much as possible this year, but 2021 ended up being a really terrible year with regard to taking new photos. The lockdown, my partners illness and gardening took up most of my time, and prevented me from taking the camera out to do what I enjoy most.

Even though I didn’t end up getting out as much as I would have liked this year, I did spend a considerable amount of time working on photos and rewriting and updating previously published articles, so it wasn’t a complete loss. 

The photos I’m choosing as my favorite of the year probably aren’t what most would choose, but they have sentimental value, which is why I’m putting them here. Some of them will be featured in future blog posts, so keep an eye out for those as well!  

  • Qiding Tunnel (崎頂隧道)

One of the first excursions I was able to take after my girlfriend finished her treatment was a quick day-trip to Miaoli where we visited a number of spots that I had on my places to visit. One of our first stops that day was the abandoned Qiding railway tunnels. The Japanese-era tunnels have become something of an Instagram hot spot in recent years, so I was happy to snap this photo of her in front of the tunnels with rays of light shining down. I actually have this photo framed and sitting on my work station.

  • Double Ten Flags (雙十國旗)

While I’m not particularly a huge fan of the ‘Republic of China’, or its flag, I enjoy a bit of irony every year when I head out to the Longgang area of Zhongli on the Double Ten National Day in October to see what’s going on. This year the place was crowded with people as usual, despite the pandemic, and I snapped this shot of the flag with the sun shining through.

  • Keelung Skywalk (基隆天橋)

The famed Keelung Skywalk has been featured in movies, television, music videos, etc. Its one of those places in Taiwan’s northern-most city that has become quite iconic. Unfortunately now that the newly constructed Keelung Railway Station has been completed, the skywalk has become obsolete and there are plans for it to unfortunately be torn down. We’ve been hearing that it’ll disappear at any moment, but until now it’s thankfully still standing. Hopefully cooler heads will prevail and these iconic skywalks will be preserved. 

  • Xinxikou Suspension Bridge (新溪口吊橋)

On an excursion with my girlfriend and her mom earlier this summer, I took them up to the mountainous area of Taoyuan to visit Xiao Wulai (小烏來), the Yixing Suspension Bridge (義興吊橋), the Xinxikou Suspension Bridge. One of my goals for this trip was to get new photos in the Xiao Wulai area so I could do a complete overhaul of my article about the area, unfortunately much of the park was closed to visitors as the area near the waterfalls was undergoing construction.

After leaving the area we visited the newly reconstructed Xinxikou Suspension Bridge (新溪口吊橋) nearby and I snapped this beautiful photo of the bridge flanked by the mountains of Taoyuan. This is one of those photos that I feel counters any argument that Taoyuan is an ‘armpit’ or some industrial cesspool.

  • General on Fire

Fortunately the COVID outbreak in Taiwan and the lock down ended long before the annual Qingshan King Temple Festival (青山靈安尊王) in Taipei’s Wanhua District (萬華區). This year I was able to attend the first night of the event to take some photos of the annual procession and was able to snap this shot of one of the generals in action. Unfortunately this photo will remain a memorable one for me as just after taking it another photographer barged past me with smacked my camera breaking the glass on my lens.. not cool..

  • Shanjia Railway Station (山佳車站)

The final photo I’ve chosen as one of my favorites isn’t all that special in terms of photography, but I think it displays the new style that I’ve been attempting to apply while post-processing photos.

So even though it’s not a spectacular photo, I think this is something that you’ll probably see a bit of in the coming year with its warm, yet subtle palette of colors and lines. 

Before I finish, I’ll leave you with a gallery of some of the photos that I’ve updated and improved upon over the long lock down that we had to deal with over the summer.

And that’s all for this year, once again I hope 2021 wasn’t as terrible for you as it was for me, and here’s hoping for a calmer new year where life can eventually go back to normal! 

Happy New Year everyone! 新年快樂!

Tanwen Train Station (談文湖車站)

I’ve probably never mentioned this, but both my father and my grandfather are pretty highly-skilled carpenters. Growing up, I never really had much respect for what they did, especially when I got dragged out to one of their work sites to ‘learn the family trade’. This is because, where I live in Canada, it’s pretty much the norm to find houses constructed almost entirely of wood, so I never really considered what they did to be all that special - and what kind of kid wants to hang around a construction site anyway?  

Looking back, I wish I took a bit more interest in what they were trying to teach me - not because I regret the decisions I’ve taken in life, but more so because I see a lot of their expertise in some of the articles I write about today. Similarly, after living so long in Taiwan among all of these concrete buildings, it’s easy to feel a bit nostalgic for those things that I thought were far too common in my youth.  

Here in Taiwan, architectural design and construction techniques are concepts that have evolved considerably over time. If you’ve been here long enough, I’m sure you’ll probably have noticed that at some point someone came to the conclusion that the best way to protect people’s homes (from the harsh tropical environment) was to simply pour copious amounts of concrete, and hope for the best.

It wasn’t always like that though - As you might have seen from my various articles about the Japanese period, the architects of that era employed highly-skilled carpenters to assist in the development of the newly acquired colony. Granted, the environmental issues faced by the architects of that era were similar to what those today have to deal with, but they found a way to deal with it, and amazingly many of the wooden buildings that were constructed more than a century ago are in better shape than concrete structures half their age.  

That being said, while there are quite a few of these heritage buildings that remain in great shape, and others that have received a bit of restoration - there are many that can be best described as ‘having seen better days’, and today I’m going to be introducing one of them. 

In a recent article, I introduced Dashan Railway Station (大山火車站), a small train station in central Taiwan’s Miaoli county, which is nearing almost a century of operation. I explained in detail in that article how the small station located along Taiwan’s Coastal Railway (海岸線) is known as one of the Coastal Five Treasures (海線五寶), or the Coastal Three Treasures (海線三寶), depending on who you ask. 

Links: Dashan Railway Station (大山火車站) | Xiangshan Railway Station (香山車站)

I don’t want to spend too much time re-hashing information that I’ve already provided, but each of these so-called “treasures” refers to century-old wooden train stations along the coastal railway line, three of which are located in Miaoli, while the other two are in Taichung. In each case, these historic stations are considerably smaller than what you’d expect from most of Taiwan’s other train stations, but have amazingly remained in operation for a century.

Given their age, each of these train stations has been afforded the designation as a protected heritage building, and at some point they’ll all (probably) receive the colloquial fresh coat of paint that they deserve, but as they’re set to celebrate their centennial in 2022, you’d be excused for wondering why they haven’t already received the attention they so desperately require.

Especially in the case of this particular station. 

Of Miaoli’s so-called ‘Three Treasures’, Tanwen Station (談文車站) is probably in the worst shape of the bunch, but even though it looks as if it is falling apart, it has fortunately remained faithful to its original architectural design. Likewise, the materials used to construct the building almost a century ago remain in relatively good shape meaning that if you’re able to visit before they restore the building, you’ll get to see it in its original glory!

Coastal Railway (海岸線 / かいがんせん)

An illustration of the separation between the Mountain and Coastal Lines.

The history of the railway in Taiwan dates back as far as 1891 (光緒17), when the Qing governor, attempted to construct a route stretching from Keelung (基隆) all the way to Hsinchu (新竹). Ultimately though, the construction of the railway came at too high of a cost, especially with war raging back home in China, so any plans to expand it further were put on hold.

A few short years later in 1895 (明治28), the Japanese took control of Taiwan, and brought with them a team of skilled engineers who were tasked with coming up with plans to have that already established railway evaluated, and then to come up with suggestions to extend it all the way to the south of Taiwan and beyond.   

The Jūkan Tetsudo Project (ゅうかんてつどう / 縱貫鐵道), otherwise known as the ‘Taiwan Trunk Railway Project’ sought to have the railroad pass through all of Taiwan’s already established settlements, including Kirin (基隆), Taihoku (臺北), Shinchiku (新竹), Taichu (臺中), Tainan (臺南) and Takao (高雄). 

Completed in 1908 (明治41), the more than four-hundred kilometer railway connected the north to the south for the first time ever, and was all part of the Japanese Colonial Government’s master plan to ensure that Taiwan’s precious natural resources would be able to flow smoothy out of the ports in Northern, Central, and Southern Taiwan. 

Once completed, the Railway Department of the Governor General of Taiwan (台灣總督府交通局鐵道部) set its sights on constructing branch lines across the country as well as expanding the railway network with a line on the eastern coast as well. 

Link: Taiwan Railway Museum (臺灣總督府鐵道部)

The Mountain and Coastal Line circuit between Zhunan and Changhua.

However, after almost a decade of service, unforeseen circumstances in central Taiwan necessitated changes in the way that the western railway was operated, with issues arising due to typhoon and earthquake damage. More specifically, the western trunk railway in southern Miaoli passed through the mountains and required somewhat of a steep incline in several sections before eventually crossing bridges across the Da’an (大安溪) and Da’jia Rivers (大甲溪).

Issues with the railway in the aftermath of a couple of devastating earthquakes created a lot of congestion, and periodic service outages in passenger and freight service when the railway and the bridges had to be repaired. 

Link: Long-Teng Bridge (龍騰斷橋)

To solve this problem, the team of railway engineers put forward a plan to construct the Kaigan-sen (かいがんせん / 海岸線), or the Coastal Railway Branch line between Chikunangai (ちくなんがい / 竹南街) and Shoka (しょうかちょう / 彰化廳), or the cities we refer to today as Chunan (竹南) and Changhua (彰化). 

Link: Western Trunk Line | 縱貫線 (Wiki)  

Opening ceremonies for the Coastal Line on October 11th, 1922

Construction on the ninety kilometer Coastal Line started in 1919, and amazingly was completed just a few short years later in 1922 (大正11), servicing eighteen stations, some of which (as I mentioned above) continue to remain in service today. 

Those stations were: Zhunan (竹南), Tanwen (談文湖), Dashan (大山), Houlong (後龍), Longgang (公司寮), Baishatun (白沙墩), Xinpu (新埔), Tongxiao (吞霄), Yuanli (苑裡), Rinan (日南), Dajia (大甲), Taichung Port (甲南), Qingshui (清水), Shalu (沙轆), Longjing (龍井), Dadu (大肚), Zhuifen (追分) and Changhua (彰化).

(Note: English is current name / Chinese is the original Japanese-era station name)

The completion of the Coastal Railway was incredibly signficant for a number reasons - most importantly, it assisted with moving freight between the ports in Keelung and Taichung much more efficiently, especially when it came to moving things out central Taiwan given that one of the stations was located at the port in Taichung. Although the railway was primarily used for moving freight back and forth, another important aspect was that the railway allowed for the smaller communities along the coast to grow and become more economically viable.

On that last point, the construction of the railway along the coast not only provided passenger service to the communities that grew along the coast, but it also allowed for entrepreneurs in those areas access to a modern method of exporting their own products for the first time. If you know anything about the relationship between Japan and Taiwan, one of the things that the Japanese absolutely love about this beautiful country is the wide variety of fruit that is grown here.

The coastal railway helped to ignite that passion with the coastal area in Miaoli exporting massive amounts of watermelons and other produce.

Tanwen Station (談文湖車站)

When the Western Coastal Railway opened for service, a number of railway stations simultaneously opened their doors, marking a historic day for passenger and freight service along Taiwan’s western coast, and more importantly improving upon to efficiency of the already existing railway. One of those stations was Miaoli’s Tanwen Station (談文車站 / だんぶんえき), which officially opened on October 11th, 1922 (大正11年).

Originally known as ‘Tanbunmizūmi Station’ (談文湖駅 / だんぶんみずうみえき), or ‘Tanwenhu’ in Mandarin, you might notice that at some point over the past century, one of the characters in the name seems to have disappeared. Currently referred to as “Tanwen” (談文), the character “湖” (mizūmi / hú / lake) was removed shortly after the Japanese-era came to an end.

The original name was derived from the fact that the low-lying area where the station was constructed was once home to a freshwater lake, part of an estuary of the nearby Zhonggang River (中港溪), which flows from the mountains and empties in the ocean. 

That lake however seems to have disappeared, much like the character in the original name.

If you visit the station, you’ll likely notice that beyond the railway platforms there are a number of rice paddies, so I’m assuming that the lake that once existed there was at some point absorbed into the agricultural network set up by local farmers. Nevertheless, a few years after the Japanese-era came to an end, the Chinese Nationalist-controlled Taiwan Railway Administration officially renamed the station “Tanwen Station” (談文車站), removing mention of the ‘lake’ in the original name.  

Unlike most the nation’s railway stations, Tanwen Station isn’t located within a town, village or even a community - It sits quietly along the Taiwan #1 Highway (台1線 / 縱貫公路), and it’s safe to say that most of the out-of-towners who pass by in their cars aren’t even likely to notice it. One of the reasons for this is because the station is also uniquely located down a hill just off of the highway. To reach the front door, you’ll have to walk down the narrow pathway, which is only really wide enough for scooters. 

As mentioned above, one of the main reasons for the construction of the Coastal Railway was to alleviate congestion on the main rail line between Hsinchu and Taichung, but another reason that the railway could similarly offer freight access to the farmers along the coast, who most notably were in the business of exporting Miaoli’s famed watermelons to the ports in Taichung and Keelung for the market back in Japan.

So, if you’ve ever heard someone claim that the coastal railway was constructed to essentially get those precious watermelons back to Japan faster, they wouldn’t necessarily be wrong. If you’ve ever eaten a Taiwanese watermelon (or any fruit grown here), it shouldn’t really surprise you!

That being said, when you visit Tanwen Station today, you’d likely come to a conclusion (similar to my own) that that the station doesn’t really seem like it was set up in an optimal way for loading freight. Amazingly though, given the station’s location, and being the first stop along the Coastal railway, it was a prosperous one, given that neighboring Zaoqiao (造橋) was in the business of exporting acacia (相思木) and charcoal while Gongguan (公館) was producing red tiles (紅瓦) and Nanzhuang (南庄) was mining coal, all of which would have been loaded on freight trains at Tanwen to be sent south to the port in Taichung. 

Waiting area outside of the station

Having visited the station, I found it a bit difficult to believe that so much freight could have passed through there over the years. Taking a look at the satellite view on Google Maps however provides an explanation as to how this was actually possible - While the station itself was located in a low-lying area off of the (current) highway, another road was constructed on the opposite side of the tracks to facilitate the processing and loading of freight onto trains. While also quite narrow, the road would have serviced one-way traffic in and out, and looks as if it would have been an efficient set up with passengers entering through the station on one side and the freight being processed on the other side of the tracks.

The economic prosperity created by the station ultimately only ended up lasting a few decades as when the Japanese-era ended, so did much of the exporting of goods that went with it. The Coastal Railway continued its regular service, but as time passed, the number of freight trains running through the area gradually decreased, and today they have become almost non-existent.

Official figures state that in 2020, 24,242 passengers got off and on the train at Tanwen Station, which means that on average fewer than fifty people pass through its gates everyday. To offer a point of comparison, the next station over, Zhunan Station (竹南車站), records almost 15,000 daily passengers, which should go to show just how quiet it is at Tanwen Station. 

Covered walkway around the side of the station

Before I get into the architectural design of the station, I’m going to provide a brief timeline of events that took place at the station over the past century:

  • 10/11/1922 (大正11年) - Tanbunmizūmi Station (淡文湖駅) officially opens for service.

  • 3/10/1954 (民國43年) - The name of the station is officially changed to Tanwen Station (談文車站).

  • 5/30/1976 (民國65年) - A head-on collision near the station results in 29 dead and 141 injured.

  • 3/15/1991 (民國80年) - The station is reclassified as a Simple Platform Station (簡易站).

  • 3/21/2008 (民國97年) - The station is recognized as a protected historic building (歷史建築).

  • 06/30/2015 (民國104年) - The station switches to the usage of card swiping services rather than issuing tickets.

  • 10/10/2022 (民國111年) - The station will celebrate its 100th year of service.

Architectural Design 

Interestingly, when we talk about the stations that make up Miaoli’s Japanese-era “Three Treasures”, the architectural design of each of the stations differ only slightly. I suppose this shouldn’t be too much of a surprise given that they were all relatively small stations, each of which opened in the same year, meaning that they obviously saved some money when it came to architectural design and construction costs.

These buildings are about as formulaic as you’ll get with Japanese architectural design, but don’t let that fool you - the simplicity of these stations allows for some special design elements. 

Obviously, as mentioned above, this station is currently in pretty bad shape compared to its contemporaries in Dashan and Xinpu, but even though the paint is chipping and parts of the station look like they’re falling apart, it is remarkably still in pretty good shape - especially when you take into consideration how old it is and that it has been completely open to the elements for a number of years.

Constructed in a fusion of Japanese and Western architectural design, one of the reasons these stations stand out today is that they were built almost entirely of wood (木造結構), more specifically locally sourced Taiwanese cedar (杉木). Another reason is because the architectural design fusion in the stations that were constructed during the Taishō era (大正) borrowed elements of Western Baroque (巴洛克建築), with that of traditional Japanese design.

Approaching the station from the highway

To start, the station was constructed using the ubiquitous Irimoya-zukuri (入母屋造 / いりもやづくり) style of design, most often referred to simply in English as the “East Asian hip-and-gable roof” which more or less means that the building has a roof that is larger than its base. In this style of design, one of the best ways to ensure structural stability was to construct a network of beams and trusses within both the interior and exterior of the building. This allows the roof to (in this case ever to slightly) eclipse the base (母屋) while ensuring that its weight is evenly distributed so that it doesn’t collapse.

One of the areas where you’ll find that the dilapidated state of the station most interesting is that you can find parts where the ‘bamboo mud walls’ (編竹夾泥牆) are exposed, giving you a pretty good view of how walls were reinforced and insulated in Taiwan during the colonial era. This construction method was similar to what was commonly used back in Japan, but since bamboo was both cheap and abundant in Taiwan, the style was modified to form a lattice using bamboo, which is an impressively reliable building material. 

Link: Bamboo Mud Wall (Wiki)

The roof was designed using the kirizuma-zukuri (妻造的樣式) style, which is one of the oldest and most commonly used designs in Japan. Translated simply as a “cut-out gable” roof, the kirizuma-style is one of the simplest of Japan’s ‘hip-and-gable’ roofs. What this basically means is that you have a section of the roof (above the rear entrance) that ‘cuts’ out from the rest of the roof and faces outward like an open book (入), while the longer part of the roof is curved facing in the opposite direction. From either the sky walk or the highway, you can get an excellent view of the roof as you descend either toward the building. 

The roof was originally covered in Japanese-style black tiles (日式黑瓦), but like nearby Dashan Station, the tiles were replaced at some point (I haven’t found a specific date) with imitation cement tiles that remain similar to the original sodegawara (袖瓦/そでがわら), munagawara (棟瓦 /むながわらあ), nokigawara (軒瓦/のきがわら), and onigawara (鬼瓦/おにがわら) elements of traditional Japanese roof design.

Ox-tail window under the apex of the roof

One of the most notable ‘baroque-inspired’ elements of the building’s architectural design is the addition of the round ox-eye window (牛眼窗) located above the ‘cut’ section of the roof near the arch. If you’re descending the sky walk from the platform, its likely one of the first things you’ll notice as it is facing in that direction. The window helps to provide natural light into the station hall, and is one of those architectural elements that Japanese architects of the period absolutely loved. 

The interior of the building is split in two sections, much like what we saw the former Qidu Railway Station with the largest section acting as the station hall while the other was where the station staff and ticket windows were located. Given that the station remains in operation today, only the station hall section is open to the public. That being said, the daily operation of the station is coordinated out of neighouring Zhunan Station (竹南車站), and the only employee you’ll find working there is most often found sitting within in a kiosk on the platform area. The station office is completely closed as is the ticket booth (the station shifted to card swiping for ticket purchasing) so you can’t even take a peek inside to see what the office looks like. 

The empty interior of the station hall

Today the station hall has been more or less stripped down and is pretty much empty, except for a few notices on the walls. The relative emptiness of the interior however allows you to appreciate the design of the building a bit more as you are free to walk around and examine everything closely, and at your leisure.

Personally, while I did appreciate that the station hall was empty, I thought its size, the open windows and the natural afternoon light made it a really comfortable experience, especially in comparison to the modern stations you’ll find throughout the country today. 

One of my favorite aspects of the architectural design of the station is the L-shaped covered walkway located to the rear of the station hall and around to the side. As a son of a carpenter, this is one of the areas where I was able to really appreciate the traditional Japanese-style carpentry. Even though you can find these covered walkways included within almost all of the older Japanese-era stations, out of those that I’ve visited so far, this one is my favorite as you can better appreciate its age when you’re there.

Paint chipping off of the station

Unfortunately, even though Tanwen Station is a protected historic property, it has certainly seen better days in terms of its condition. It’s unclear as to when the local government will ever pull the trigger on repairing the station, or having it completely restored - but if it doesn’t happen within the next few years, there might not be much left of the original building to restore.

One would hope that it would eventually receive the same treatment that the nearby Xiangshan Station has received, but only time will tell.

Still, I’m happy that I was able to check out the station in its original condition before it was fully repaired. If you feel the same way, and would like to enjoy a similar experience, I recommend planning a trip to the station within the near future. 

Getting There

 

Address: #29 Ren-ai Road, Zaoqiao Township, Miaoli County (苗栗縣造橋鄉談文村仁愛路29號) 

GPS: 24.656440 120.858330

As is the case with all of my articles about Taiwan’s historic railway stations, I’m going to say something that shouldn’t really surprise you - When you ask what is the best way to get to this train station, the answer should be pretty obvious: Take the train! 

Tanwen Railway Station is one of the first stations you’ll reach after passing over into Miaoli County from Hsinchu. There are however a couple of important things to remember about taking the train: The first is that the station is located south of Hsinchu Station (新竹車站) on the Coastal Line (海線), and the second is that the station is only serviced by local commuter trains (區間車). What this means is that if you take an express train from Taipei or anywhere north of Hsinchu, you’ll have to switch to a commuter train once you’re there.

Be very careful about this, because the majority of trains leaving Hsinchu will take the mountain line (山線), and that’s definitely not where you want to be (on this excursion anyway). The ride to the station should take less than half an hour (25 minutes to be precise) from Hsinchu, and once you’re there you’ll be able to check out the station at your leisure before hopping back on the train to your next destination.

And if you’re asking for recommendations, I’d suggest stopping by the other Japanese-era railway stations in the vicinity such as Xiangshan (香山車站), Dashan (大山車站) and Xinpu (新埔車站) - or hopping back on the Mountain Line to check out Zaoqiao Station (造橋車站) and Tongluo Station (銅鑼車站).

For most weekend visitors, the station acts as a starting point for the Zhenghan Trail (鄭漢紀念步道), a relatively short hiking trail that provides excellent views of the coast and the Coastal Railway. It’s also a pretty popular location for railway photographers to take landscape photos of trains coming through the coastal landscape. If you’re interested in the trail, I highly recommend checking out the link below, which provides all the information you’ll need about hiking the trail.

Link: Zhenghan Trail 鄭漢幾年步道 (Taiwan Trails and Tales)

If on the other hand you’re in the area and you’re driving a car or scooter, but still want to stop by and check out the station, that’s okay as well. You should be able to easily find the station if you input the address provided above into your GPS or Google Maps. The station is located along the side of the road in Miaoli’s Zaoqiao Township (造橋鄉). If you’re driving a car, the station is next to a busy country road where parking is somewhat awkward, although not entirely impossible - if you’re only stopping by for a short time.

When you arrive, you’re free to walk around and check it out as it is pretty much an empty shell these days with riders having to walk across the sky walk to the platforms to swipe in and out.

References

  1. 談文車站 | Tanwen Station | 談文駅 (Wiki) 

  2. 海線五寶 (Wiki)

  3. 細說苗栗「海線三寶」車站物語 (臺灣故事)

  4. 談文駅 (れとろ駅舎)

  5. 海線的老火車站 (二): 談文火車站 (Maggie’s Home)

  6. 『談文車站』苗栗縣定歷史建築~台鐵海線五寶之一的木造車站! (瑋瑋*美食萬歲 )

  7. 木造車站-海線五寶 (張誌恩 / 許正諱)

  8. 海線僅存五座木造車站:談文、大山、新埔、日南、追分全收錄!(David Win)


Dashan Train Station (大山腳車站)

There is a very short list of buildings in Taiwan that have been able to celebrate their centennial while also continuing to serve the exact same purpose they did when they were first constructed. Next year (2022) however will see that exclusive list grow a little longer with a couple of railway stations that will be celebrating one hundred years of service. 

There have been few factors more instrumental to Taiwan’s modern development than the construction of the railway network that circles the country. In fact, if it weren’t for the construction of the railway, it’s highly unlikely that Taiwan would have been able to achieve even a fraction of the prosperity that it has today. For a lot of countries (especially my own), the railway might seem like something of an afterthought, but for Taiwan, the railway has always been the beating-heart of the community.

That being said, Taiwan’s rapid and continual development over the past century has also meant that much of its older infrastructure has had to be replaced due to age, and the inability to serve the needs of the modern nation state. Indeed, for most people, efficiency is one of the most important factors in our modern lives, and that means that many of the country’s ‘outdated’ buildings have been left to rot, or have sadly been completely demolished in order to make way for modernity. 

As the nation has grown into its own however, people have started to reflect on their heritage while also yearning for increased accessibility to important pieces of their history. In recent years we have seen a renewed focus on the restoration of historic buildings across with the country, and when it comes to the history of the all-important railway, we are blessed with a number of historic buildings and museums where we can learn about the history of this beautiful country.

There are some cases however where we can experience living history, so when we’re able to come across a railway station that has continued to serve the same community for more than a hundred years, it’s a pretty special experience.

Today, I’ll be introducing one of the stations that is regarded as one of the “Coastal Five Treasures” (海線五寶), or the “Coastal Three Treasures” (海線三寶), depending on who you ask. To explain, each of these “treasures” refers to a nearly century-old Japanese-era train station located in either Miaoli (苗栗縣) or Taichung (台中縣) on the coastal section of the Western Trunk Line (縱貫線) of the railway between Keelung and Kaohsiung.

The reason why I saw the name depends on who you ask is due to special situation Miaoli finds itself in as of late with the running joke that it is actually a sovereign country within Taiwan known as Miaoli-kuo (苗栗國). I’m sure someone could write an entire thesis on this running joke and how it originated, but what I’ll say is that in Chinese, the term “Three Treasures” (三寶) is a much more auspicious and meaningful number than five, so linguistically it has more sway. But if you’re not from Miaoli, you might just want to include the two stations in Taichung, because they deserve the same amount of respect. 

Note: “Three Treasures” (三寶) linguistically refers to “the Buddha”, “the Dharma”, and “the Sangha” (佛寶, 法寶, 僧寶) in Buddhism, also known as the “Three Jewels” or the “Three Roots” and is a term that has significant meaning throughout Asia.

That being said, the term “三寶” (sān bǎo) has taken on a number of meanings ranging from Hong Kong style of bento box that features three kinds of meat (三寶飯), or an idiot driving on the road (馬路三寶), among others. 

This article is the first of a series of posts about these five so-called “treasures,” and I’m going to start by introducing Northern Miaoli’s Dashan Station (大山火車站), which is (out of the five), arguably in the best shape of the lot and is home to a few unique additions that you won’t find anywhere else in Taiwan. 

Before I start though, I’m going to take a few minutes to introduce the historic Coastal Railway Line where these stations make their home. 

Coastal Railway (海岸線 / かいがんせん)

The history of the railway in Taiwan dates back as far as 1891 (光緒17), when the Qing governor, attempted to construct a route stretching from Keelung (基隆) all the way to Hsinchu (新竹). Ultimately though, the construction of the railway came at too high of a cost, especially with war raging back home in China, so any plans to expand it further were put on hold.

A few short years later in 1895 (明治28), the Japanese took control of Taiwan, and brought with them a team of skilled engineers who were tasked with coming up with plans to have that already established railway evaluated and then to come up with suggestions to extend it all the way to the south of Taiwan and beyond.   

The Jūkan Tetsudō Project (ゅうかんてつどう / 縱貫鐵道), otherwise known as the ‘Taiwan Trunk Railway Project’ sought to have the railroad pass through all of Taiwan’s already established settlements, including Kirin (基隆), Taihoku (臺北), Shinchiku (新竹), Taichu (臺中), Tainan (臺南) and Takao (高雄). 

Completed in 1908 (明治41), the more than four-hundred kilometer railway connected the north to the south for the first time ever, and was all part of the Japanese Colonial Government’s master plan to ensure that Taiwan’s precious natural resources would be able to flow smoothy out of the ports in Northern, Central, and Southern Taiwan. 

Once completed, the Railway Department of the Governor General of Taiwan (台灣總督府交通局鐵道部) set its sights on constructing branch lines across the country as well as expanding the railway network with a line on the eastern coast as well. 

Link: Taiwan Railway Museum (臺灣總督府鐵道部)

However, after almost a decade of service, unforeseen circumstances in central Taiwan necessitated changes in the way that the western railway was operated, with issues arising due to typhoon and earthquake damage. More specifically, the western trunk railway in Southern Miaoli passed through the mountains and required somewhat of a steep incline in sections before eventually crossing bridges across the Da’an (大安溪) and Da’jia Rivers (大甲溪), which started to create a lot of congestion, and periodic service outages when the railway and the bridges had to be repaired. 

Link: Long-Teng Bridge (龍騰斷橋)

To solve this problem, the team of railway engineers suggested the construction of the Kaigan-sen (かいがんせん / 海岸線), or the Coastal Railway Branch line between Chikunangai (ちくなんがい / 竹南街) and Shoka (しょうかちょう / 彰化廳), or what we refer to today as Chunan and Changhua. 

Link: Western Trunk Line | 縱貫線 (Wiki)  

Construction on the ninety kilometer Coastal Line started in 1919, and amazingly was completed just a few short years later in 1922 (大正11), servicing eighteen stations, some of which (as I mentioned above) continue to remain in service today. 

Those stations were: Zhunan (竹南), Tanwen (談文湖), Dashan (大山), Houlong (後龍), Longgang (公司寮), Baishatun (白沙墩), Xinpu (新埔), Tongxiao (吞霄), Yuanli (苑裡), Rinan (日南), Dajia (大甲), Taichung Port (甲南), Qingshui (清水), Shalu (沙轆), Longjing (龍井), Dadu (大肚), Zhuifen (追分) and Changhua (彰化).

(Note: English is current name / Chinese is the original Japanese-era station name)

Oyamagashi Railway Station (大山腳驛 / おうやまあしえき)

One of the first things most people notice when stepping off the train onto the platform at Dashan Station is that there aren’t actually any mountains nearby. For those of you who aren’t Mandarin speakers, the name “Dashan” (大山 / dà shān), quite literally translates into English as “Big Mountain,” so you may understand the confusion as to how the station derives its name.

To figure this out, I had to do quite a bit of digging as there isn’t very much information about this station, or the community around it available save for the basics. To start, the original Japanese name of the station was Oyamagashi Station (大山腳驛 / おうやまあしえき), which is slightly different than the current name. The difference is that there is an additional Chinese character “腳” (jiao), which means “foot” or “base” and could be interpreted as the area at the base of a large mountain. 

Still though, there aren’t any large mountains nearby, so we have to dig a bit deeper. 

It turns out that the Hokkien people (閩南人) who had settled in the area long before the arrival of the Japanese referred to sections of their community either as the ‘upper’ (上大山腳) or ‘lower’ (下大山腳) base of the mountain, or ‘hill’ in Taiwanese as “Suann-lūn” (山崙). In this case instead of an actual ‘mountain’, the word refers to a small hill that is elevated higher than the general terrain. In this way, you could argue that this is a fitting description as the station is located at a lower elevation than the rest of the community that it serves with hills and sand dunes on the opposite side near the coast. 

The rear of the station

As mentioned above, the Coastal Line was completed in 1919, but these smaller stations didn’t actually start appearing until a few years later. This was due to the fact that the purpose of the line wasn’t originally meant to provide passenger service, but to ease the congestion of freight traffic between the north and south through that dangerous patch of railway in central Taiwan. So when these stations started appearing, they were actually meant for driving economic development with relation to moving freight and the products from the coastal areas.

And if you know anything about the Houlong (後龍) area, that freight was most certainly copious amounts of watermelons being sent to port in Taichung for export back to Japan. If you weren’t already aware, Taiwanese fruit exports were huge during the Japanese-era, and watermelon and pineapples were especially popular.

Oyamagashi Station as we know it today was constructed in 1922 (大正11年) and officially opened for passenger service on October 10th, which is actually a pretty cool coincidence as I started writing this article on October 10th, 2021, the 99th anniversary of the station. 

The station name painted on one of the warehouses to the rear

Before I get into the architectural design of the station, I’ll provide a bit of a timeline of events that took place at the station over the past century.

  • 10/11/1922 - The station opens for service and is named Oyamagashi Station (大山腳驛)

  • 10/25/1945 - The Japanese formally surrender control of Taiwan at the end of WWII. 

  • 04/01/1965 - The station is officially renamed “Dashan Station” (大山火車站).

  • 04/01/1991 - The station is reclassified as a ‘Simple Platform Station’ (簡易站).

  • 06/10/2005 - The station is recognized as a protected historic building (歷史建築). 

  • 06/30/2015 - The station switches to the usage of card swiping services rather than issuing tickets.

  • 12/23/2019 - A drunk driver crashes his truck into the front of the station causing considerable damage.

  • 10/10/2022 - The station will celebrate its 100th year of service. 


To expand on a few of the points above, many of the coastal line’s stations were converted to ‘Simple Platform Stations’ in the early 1990s, which essentially meant that they would only be serviced by Local Commuter Trains (區間車), while the express trains would pass by without stopping. It also meant that the station wouldn’t continue to have a Station Manager (站長) on site with those responsibilities delegated to the manager of a larger station nearby, in this case, Houlong Railway Station (後龍火車站).

Architectural Design

Interestingly, when we talk about the stations that make up Miaoli’s Japanese-era “Three Treasures”, the architectural design of each of the stations differ only in slight ways. I suppose this shouldn’t be too much of a surprise given that they were all smaller stations, each of which opened in 1922, meaning that they obviously saved some money when it came to architectural design. That being said, the design of these buildings is about as formulaic as you’ll get with Japanese architectural design, but don’t let that fool you - the simplicity of these stations allows for some special design elements. 

The station was constructed in a fusion of Japanese and Western architectural design, and one of the reasons it stands out today (apart from its age) is that it was built almost entirely of wood (木造結構), more specifically locally sourced Taiwanese cedar (杉木), making use of a concrete base and a network of beams within the building to ensure structural stability.

The architectural design fusion of the stations that were constructed during the Taishō era (大正) often borrowed elements of Western Baroque (巴洛克建築) and combined them with that of traditional Japanese design. In this case, the design is quite subdued (likely for cost saving measures), which makes the traditional Japanese design elements stand out more. That being said, even though the architectural design is considered simplistic in comparison to other Japanese-era buildings, it does feature several elements that allow it to stand out. 

To start, the station was constructed using Irimoya-zukuri (入母屋造 / いりもやづくり) style of design, most often referred to in English as the “East Asian hip-and-gable roof.” As mentioned above, the building was constructed with a network of beams and trusses found in the interior and exterior of the building. This allows the roof to (in this case slightly) eclipse the base (母屋) in size and ensure that its weight is evenly distributed so that the building doesn’t collapse.

The roof itself was designed using the kirizuma-zukuri (妻造的樣式) style, which is one of the oldest and most commonly used designs in Japan. Translated simply as a “cut-out gable” roof, the kirizuma-style is one of the simplest of Japan’s ‘hip-and-gable’ roofs. What this basically means is that you have a section of the roof (above the rear entrance) that ‘cuts’ out from the rest of the roof and faces outward like an open book (入), while the longer part of the roof is curved facing in the opposite direction. From the front of the building, the roof looks rather simple save for the fact that it is split into two levels with a lower section that covers the walkway that surrounds the building on three sides.

The roof is covered in Japanese-style black tiles (日式黑瓦), which were replaced in 2000 (民國89年) after almost eighty years. Still, after twenty years the current roof tiles are in pretty good shape despite their color fading somewhat thanks to the salt in the air due to the proximity to the coast. 

The interior of the station hall

The area between the upper part of the roof and the lower part features several glass windows meant to allow for natural light to enter the building. Unfortunately, at some point someone had a brain fart and placed square lighted signs with the name of the station that blocks the windows. This is one reason why you’ll find that the interior of the building is a little dark, even during the afternoon when the sun is at its brightest.

The interior of the building is split in two sections, much like what we saw the former Qidu Railway Station with the largest section acting as the station hall while the other was where the station staff and ticket windows were located. Given that this station is still in operation, only one side is understandably open to the public. That being said, there’s not really a whole lot to see when you’re inside as there is only a ticket counter and a passageway to the platform area. The floor is made of concrete, and it looks like it has seen better days. There are large sliding glass windows next to the front entrance as well as to the right while there is a wall on the other side where you’ll find the ticket booth. 

Link: Xiangshan Station (香山車站)

The ticket window in the station hall

One of the most notable aspects of the interior is the wooden gate located near the ticket booth. The gate is rather unique in Taiwan these days in that it is constructed to look like the Japanese word for ‘money’ (円). Likewise, once you’ve passed through the building to the other side you’ll find a beautiful wooden barrier that is similarly one of a kind in Taiwan these days.

From the rear, one of the most notable baroque-inspired elements is the round ox-eye window (牛眼窗) located above the cut section of the roof near the arch. This window helps to provide natural light into the office section of the building, and is one of those architectural elements that Japanese architects of the period absolutely loved. 

Before I finish, one of the events mentioned above in the timeline ended up changing (or disfiguring if you prefer) the face of the station. Unfortunately the news was only reported in Chinese, so I’ll summarize in English here: In 2019, a drunk driver passing through the community lost control of his blue truck and crashed directly into the building, causing a considerable amount of damage. There isn’t a lot of information about the station currently available online, but when you do search it, almost all of the results you’ll get are related to this unfortunate event. The accident caused some problems for the station, but given that it was a protected historic property,  the Taiwan Railway Administration did their best to have it fixed as best they could. When you look at the front of the station now though, you’re likely to notice that there are some wooden panels that are a different shade than the others, and this is why.

Note the difference

Whether or not this was an accident, or intentional is hard to tell. There are certain people in Taiwan who would prefer to see all of the Japanese-era buildings destroyed, hoping to see that part of Taiwan’s history erased from existence. 

If you click the link below you’ll see some of the photos from the incident. 

Link: 貨車駕駛酒駕闖大禍 撞毀百年歷史建築大山車站 (CNA)

Getting There

 

Address: #180 Mingshan Road. Houlong Township, Miaoli County (苗栗縣後龍鎮大山里明山路180號)

GPS: 24.645670, 120.803770

As is the case with any of my articles about Taiwan’s historic railway stations, I’m going to say something that shouldn’t really surprise you - When you ask what is the best way to get to the train station, the answer should be pretty obvious: Take the train! 

Dashan Railway Station is one of the first stations you’ll reach in Miaoli County while traveling south on the Western Coastal Line (海線), so when you think about it, it’s not actually that far away from Taipei, or anywhere in Northern Taiwan. Taking only half an hour from Hsinchu Railway Station (新竹火車站), you’ll be able to check out the station at your leisure before hopping back on the train to your next destination. 

That being said, if you’re already in the area and have access to a car or a scooter, you can easily find the station if you input the address provided above into your GPS or Google Maps. The station is located within Miaoli’s Houlong Township (後龍鎮) along the west coast highway. If you’re driving a car, you’ll find that the station is a simple turn off of the highway into a quiet little village, where you’ll find very little traffic and even fewer people. 

When you arrive at the station, you should be free to walk around and check it out, but if the volunteer who works there is in a bad mood (not likely) you might have to purchase a ‘platform ticket’ (月票 or 月台票) which will allow you to enter the station and walk through the turnstile without getting on the train. It’s the kind of thing people used to purchase when they were seeing off their friends or family, and should only cost about 10NT. You could also just swipe your EasyCard to go in and out, but that’ll cost more (the base price for swiping the card is higher) if you aren’t traveling on the train.

For a lot of people, a simple day-trip could might revolve around a trip to either three, of if ambitious enough, five of the “treasures” which allows you to visit each of these still functioning Japanese era stations. There are a lot of things you can do while hanging out in Taiwan, and while it might seem pretty random to visit five train stations in a single day, it is actually an enriching experience.

I’m not saying that is what you should do, but if you are so inclined, I would applaud anyone who tries it. If you find yourself in Miaoli (especially along the coast) and you’re looking for something to do, I recommend stopping by at least one of these stations to experience a bit of living history.