Hualien Railway Bureau (花蓮鐵道文化園)

With the recent re-opening of the Taihoku Railway Bureau in Taipei, there has been a renewed focus around the country with regard to the history of the railway, especially when it comes to anything remaining from the Japanese Colonial Era.

After a long period of restoration, (likely requiring an obscene amount of money) both the headquarters of the former Japanese-era railway and the Taipei Railway Workshop reopened in 2020, attracting quite a bit of attention from the local media, nerds like myself, and tourists alike. That being said, even though Taipei is home to these two important historic sites, it most certainly wasn’t the first area in Taiwan to restore and reopen historic railway-related buildings to the public.

During the colonial era, the Japanese Colonial Government strategically set up Railway Bureaus and Workshops around the island in order to better maintain the operation of the continually expanding railway network that sought to eventually encircle the island. So, even though the headquarters was technically located in the capital, there were also large branch offices and workshops located in Kaohsiung to the south and Hualien on the east coast. 

Today, the Kaohsiung Railway Bureau has been (高雄鐵道部) reopened as the “Hamasen Railway Cultural Park” (哈瑪星鐵道文化園區) while the Hualien Railway Bureau (花蓮鐵道部) is currently home to the “Hualien Railway Culture Park” (花蓮鐵道文化園區), both of which having reopened well before the park in Taipei! 

So uh…. Take that Taipei! 

Given that I’ve already introduced the Railway Bureau headquarters as well as the Taipei Workshop, I’m going to continue expanding on the subject with this article by introducing the former Hualien Railway Bureau and the Culture Park that exists there today. 

Before I start, I think it is important to keep in mind that both the Hualien and the Kaohsiung Railway Culture Parks are much smaller in comparison to the one in Taipei. They were also reopened a lot earlier and likely didn’t receive a proportionate amount of funding as the one in the capital. 

I’m not telling you this to lead you to think that they’re not as impressive. They’re still pretty cool.

I just think it’s important to remember that the scale and the exhibitions you’ll find at each of these parks is going to differ slightly. Likewise what you can see and do at each of them is going to be different, especially in the case of this park as it is often used by local vendors as an art space and a place for film festivals, etc. 

Without further adieu, I’ll start by introducing the history of the Hualien Railway Bureau, then move on to its architectural design and then introducing about the culture park that exists there today. 

Hualien Railway Bureau (花蓮鐵道部)

When the Japanese took control of Taiwan in 1895, a rudimentary railway in the Northern portion of the island had already been constructed between Keelung and Taipei. To slow the pace of the Japanese army’s advance into the capital however that railway was sabotaged in several sections, forcing the army to make quick repairs in order to ensure that they could effectively take administrative control of the capital.

The sabotage scheme ultimately had little effect on the army’s advance with military engineers completing emergency reparations on the rail line and having it back in service within two months of their arrival. The “Temporary Taiwan Railway Team” (臨時臺灣鐵道隊) of engineers were initially stationed in Keelung, and by 1896, proposals were drawn up to improve and re-route the existing railroad between the port and the capital, while also making plans for a railway that would encircle the entire island. 

By 1897 (明治30年), engineers from the Railway Team had criss-crossed Taiwan and came up with proposals for five routes that would stretch across the island, and were even considering an ambitious vertical route that would cross the Central Mountain Range. Unfortunately for the Railway Team, their exploration of the mountainous areas put them in direct confrontation with the Indigenous peoples near Taroko, resulting in the deaths of fourteen of their engineers, and the decision that a railway through the mountains wasn’t feasible. 

In 1899 (明治32年), the ‘Temporary Railway Team’ was officially reestablished as the “Ministry of Railways of the Governor Generals Office of Taiwan” (臺灣總督府鐵道部), charged with managing the construction of a railway network around the island in addition to the operation and maintenance of public and private railways.  

Note: The Private Railways mentioned above were those used by the various monopoly industries such as the camphor, sugarcane, coal, etc. Which were using branch railways off of the main lines to extract natural resources, and get them to port as efficiently as possible. 

While the construction of the railroad along Taiwan’s much more developed western coast progressed rather smoothly, the Eastern branch line (臺東線) was a more difficult undertaking, and ended up taking considerably longer to complete. With railway construction simultaneously taking place in different stages around the island, the eastern branch line was completed several decades after the west coast lines.

For the purpose of this particular article, it’s important to note that construction on the northern segment of the line, from Karenko (花蓮港) to Poshiko (璞石閣), known today as Hualien (花蓮) and Yuli (玉里), started in 1909 (明治42年), and was completed in 1917 (大正7年). 

Japanese-era map of the main railways in Taiwan.

The Eastern Branch ultimately wouldn’t be completed until 1926 (昭和元年) when 171.8 kilometers of rail was officially opened to the public between Hualien and Taitung, both of which were the terminal stations for the rail line. 

Even though the Western Coast of Taiwan was connected by railway from Taipei all the way to Pingtung with more than a dozen branch lines between the mountains and the ports on the coast, service on the East Coast was considerably less convenient, with the line from Taipei terminating in Su’ao (蘇澳), Yilan’s southern most village.

It’s important to note that while there were plans to connect the Eastern Branch railway in the north between Yilan and Hualien and in the South between Taitung and Pingtung (屏東), as it is today, those plans were never actually realized.

Maybe that was a good thing though, at the time a trip between Taitung and Hualien took between 7-8 hours for passengers, and 11 hours for freight.

Japanese-era photo of the Hualien Railway Bureau (日治時期花蓮鐵道部出張所)

To coordinate operations on the Taitung Line, it was necessary to construct a Hualien Branch of the Railway Bureau (鐵道部花蓮出張所). Established in 1909, the Railway Bureau took up a prominent portion of the downtown core of Hualien, extending well-beyond what has been preserved today to encompass several city blocks. Featuring a Branch Office (出張所 / しゅっちょうじょ), Engineering Works (公務 / こうむ), Military Police Outpost (警務處 / けいむ), Inspection Garage (檢車庫), Water Stop (蒸汽火車加水塔), machine factory (機廠), official residence (處長官邸), staff dormitories (員工宿舍區), railway hospital (鐵道醫院), etc. 

From 1909 until the 1970s, the Railway Workshop area was one of the most commercially active in downtown Hualien, and was constantly bustling with activity as it became one of the focal points for development and local administration.

This was in part due to the fact that a year after the Railway Workshop started operations, the Karenko Railway Station (花蓮港停車場  / かれんこう) was constructed next door and started limited railway service along the eastern line. 

Note: The Hualien Railway Station has since moved to another part of town, but was originally located at the intersection of what has become Zhongshan Road (中山路) and Chongqing Road (重慶路) today. The station was constructed in 1910 (明治43年) and remained in service until 1981 (民國70年), it was torn down a decade later in 1992 (民國81年).  

Japanese-era Hualien Station (日治時期花蓮港車站)

Even though the Hualien Railway Bureau dates back to 1909, the buildings that that we can visit today aren’t what you have seen when it was officially opened. What has been preserved as part of the railway culture park today date back to a 1932 (昭和7年) rebuild and expansion of the railway bureau which was a reflection of the completion of the eastern branch of the railway a few years earlier. 

After 28 years of painstaking construction, the 173 kilometer Taitung Line Railway was completed and the start of operations coincided with the celebrations of the first year of the Showa Era (昭和元年). The official opening ceremonies for the completed railway were held on March 25th, 1926 and ushered in a new era of prosperity for Hualien, and the rest of the eastern coast of Taiwan as the flow of materials became much more efficient.

Similarly, given that the Hualien Railway Station was located next to the Railway Bureau, the area surrounding the railway became instrumental for economic development.

When the Second World War came to a conclusion and the Japanese surrendered to the allies, control of Taiwan was (ambiguously) given to the Republic of China (中華民國) and after Taiwan’s so-called “retrocession”, the Hualien Railway Bureau was occupied by the new regime, and renamed the Hualien Management Office of the Taiwan Railway Administration (台灣鐵路管理局花蓮辦事處). The buildings and equipment onsite remained in use until the early 1980s when the administration and maintenance of the railway of the eastern branch migrated across town in conjunction with the new station.

Japanese-era Hualien Station (日治時期花蓮港車站)

The current Hualien Railway Station, located north-west of the original station was recently expanded and underwent a several year period of reconstruction. Like its much earlier predecessor, the beautiful new station has become one of the focal points of the city, and as was the case in the past, the administration of the railway takes place within the upper offices of the railway station while the maintenance of the trains is taken care of at the massive 34,000m² Hualien Machine Factory (花蓮機廠) nearby. 

Even though the original railway that ran through the port area of Hualien has been abandoned, parts of the track have been preserved and you can still see some of it along the the Old Railway Walkway (舊鐵路行人徒步區), which has been transformed into a hip part of town and a tourist attraction in its own right. 

With the Japanese-era Hualien Railway Station having already been sadly torn down a few short years after the migration of the railway and its administration took place, experts, scholars and local citizens started to advocate for the preservation of the historic Railway Bureau, and the various buildings that still existed on the site.

In 2002 (民國91年), the Hualien County Cultural Affairs Bureau (花蓮縣文化局) officially registered the Railway Bureau and the various buildings on-site as protected historic buildings (花蓮縣歷史建築), and plans were made to restore the buildings and reopen them to the public as a culture park. 

In 2011, restoration work on the first section of the former Railway Bureau was completed with the Branch Office (出張所) becoming the main attraction, while the dormitories and Machine Works across the street remained a work in progress. As of writing, this section has yet to be completely re-opened to the public. Likewise, the former Water Stop and Directors Residence are still undergoing restoration, meaning that I’ll have to return in the near future to check them out. 

When I do visit again, this space will be updated, although I plan on dedicating an entire article to the Directors Dormitory, as it looks to be one of the prettiest of the high-ranking dorms that remains in Taiwan today. 

Sadly, even though the Railway Hospital (舊鐵路醫院) has been protected as a historic property, restoration work on the building had yet to start before being partially destroyed by fire in early 2021. The damage to the historic buildings was considerable, and reparations will be funded by the Taiwan Railway Administration, but currently planning for the project is just getting underway, so we probably can’t expect that it will be part of the larger Railway Bureau Park any time in the near future. 

Link: 花蓮舊鐵路醫院遭祝融 部分歷史建物受損 (UDN) 

As mentioned earlier, the Hualien Railway Bureau certainly isn’t as large and thus far hasn’t been adapted into a well-organized culture park as its contemporary in Taipei. It has nevertheless become an important cultural and tourist attraction in Hualien, and over the next few years as the restoration process progresses, it will continue to grow, making it one of the focal points of cultural preservation in downtown Hualien City.  

Hualien Railway Culture Park (花蓮鐵道文化園)

The Hualien Railway Culture Park currently consists of two sections that are open to the public, and feature historic exhibitions in addition to offering event spaces and allowing for private vendors to set up weekend markets and food stalls. There is a little something for everyone who visits the historic culture park, making it a popular tourist attraction for every type of tourist. 

Below, I’ll briefly introduce both sections of the park, known simply as “Section 1” (一館區) and “Section 2” (二館區), explaining a little about each of the buildings within, their architectural design and what they’re currently used for within the contemporary culture park. 

Section 1 (一館區) - Branch Office (出張所)

Section One of the Hualien Railway Culture Park is home to none other than the Railway Bureau itself. Essentially the most historically significant and architecturally distinct part of the park, this is where the everyday business affairs of the railway would have been carried out. 

Home to the Branch Office (出張所), the building is a hodgepodge of architectural styles constructed with a fusion of Japanese and western elements, while also mimicking the traditional Chinese style four-sided courtyard (四合院) layout. 

The front gates to the Branch Office open up into a tree-covered front courtyard with a drive way that would have allowed cars to come in and circle around on their way out. Directly to the left of the gate you’ll find a small Japanese-style guard building, which has amazingly served the same role from the day it was built until now. 

On the opposite side, a bit closer to the front entrance of the Branch Office you’ll find a cement air-raid shelter that has been dug into the ground near one of the trees. The shelter is a relic of the Japanese-era, but was preserved in its original form - just in case.

The front courtyard is currently made available on weekends and holidays to local vendors who are permitted to set up tables to sell arts and crafts in addition to a variety of food trucks that offer snacks and drinks for sale to visitors. If you’re feeling hungry and feel like the food selection isn’t all that great, never fear, the Dongdamen Night Market (東大門夜市) is a two minute walk and there’s always something good to eat there! 

Looking up into the interior of the tower with its stained-glass windows

The front entrance to the Branch Office is absolutely beautiful and is a long rectangular-shaped building with a double-layer roof. The center of the building opens up with a passageway covered by a gothic-style tower (哥德式高塔) that has stained-glass windows on all four sides, allowing for beautiful natural light in the corridor below. The tower is coincidentally one of the features of the building that makes the Branch Office so architecturally distinct and differentiates it from pretty much every other Japanese-era building remaining in Taiwan today. 

Once you pass through the corridor you will find yourself in another beautiful courtyard surrounded on all four sides by the rest of the Branch Office. The courtyard has a little pond in the middle with some pine trees offering some shade. 

Even though I just said that the layout of the Branch Office mimics that of a Chinese-style four-sided courtyard building, it does differ slightly and even though there are buildings on all four sides, they’re not physically connected in the way that a similar Chinese-style building would be.

The main courtyard of the Railway Bureau

The main area of the Branch Office is rectangular in shape and was home to offices on both the eastern and western wings. Once you pass through the corridor however, you’ll notice that there is a covered walkway on both sides that leads to the other buildings. The walkway that surrounds the building is what helps to make it look like the buildings are all physically connected, even though they aren’t. 

Directly to the left of the corridor you’ll find another similarly long rectangular building that forms an “L” shape with the main building. These two buildings work together to make up the vast majority of the permanent exhibition space that provides historic information about the Railway Bureau. 

Covered corridors between buildings

Architecturally, both of the buildings are relatively similar in that they were constructed in the traditional Japanese ‘irimoya’ (入母屋) style, meaning that the base of the building is smaller than the roof, which extends beyond the base. The design of the roof on both of these buildings however is relatively simple compared to other buildings in this architectural style as they’re not of the typical hip-and-gable variety you’d see elsewhere. So even though the main building features the gothic tower that extends above the main part of the roof, the rest is quite simple.

The covered passageway that reaches around the building does make the roof appear as if its double-layered, but the purpose here was to prevent employees getting wet on rainy days and diverting the rain water onto the courtyard rather than the walkway, as well as allowing the various pillars that wrap around the building to evenly distribute the weight of the roof. 

Exhibition Space

Both buildings have been constructed using wood and feature beautiful sliding glass windows on both the front and back sides, allowing for an ample amount of natural light into the building. This is important because the ceiling in the interior of the buildings is (currently) open, so you’re able to check out the intricate network of trusses that were put in place to help keep the heavy roof in place. 

The building known today simply as Exhibition Area 1 (展覽區1) is the front facing building with the gothic tower was once home to the Directors Office (處長室), Administration Office (總務室), Works Department (工務課) and Maintenance Department (機務課). Separated into two different exhibition spaces, this building is essentially the main attraction if you’re interested in learning about the history of the Railway Bureau and the East Coast Railway. 

Likewise, Exhibition Area 2 (展覽區2) is located in the wing directly to the left of the main building and was originally home to the Accounting Office (會計室), Traffic Safety Committee (行車保安委員會) and a Training Room (運務課). Today the building is home to a large model train version of Hualien City from the days when the Railway Station was located next door to the Railway Bureau. There are some other exhibition pieces in the building as well, but I feel like this is somewhat of a wasted space as they could probably do a lot more with such a large open area than having a model railway that doesn’t even run most of the time. 

Model railway of Hualian

As I mentioned earlier with regard to how this Railway Bureau differs from the one in Taipei, wasted and unused space is an issue that the authorities have to deal with. Not only is the Exhibition Space in the former Accounting Building an underutilized space, the small electrical production building to the rear is likewise completely empty, while another one of the former offices at the rear of the courtyard are used simply for the park administration and public washrooms. 

The most architecturally distinct building within the Railway Bureau is the former Meeting Room and Banquet Hall (聚會場所), a century old Japanese style building that was renamed “Zhongshan Hall” (中山堂) after the colonial era ended. Currently home to the Railway Movie Theater (鐵道電影院), the building was never actually planned to be utilized as an exhibition space, but instead a space where the Hualien City Government can hold film festivals. So when you visit, if there isn’t any events planned, you may find that the building is locked up and not accessible to tourists. 

Constructed using local Hinoki Cypress (檜木) from Morisaka (林田山) and the Chinan Forest Area (池南林區) in the mountains of Hualien, the local government spent $11,000,000NT ($370,000USD) restoring the building, while retaining as much of the original cypress as possible. 

Note: Morisaka (林田山) is known today as the “Lintian Mountain Forestry Culture Park” (林田山林業文化園區) while the “Chinan National Forest Recreation Area” (池南國家森林遊樂區) was located along the Haron Forestry Railroad (哈崙 (ハロン) 森林鐵道), two of Hualien’s three Japanese era timber railways. 

The meeting hall after dark

In almost every article I’ve read about the building, it seems like they all parrot the same talking point, namely that ‘Zhongshan Hall’ is a century year old building. I thought it was a bit strange given that the rest of the Railway Bureau is around ninety years old (as of 2021), so I spent some time looking to see if the building was part of the original itieration of the Railway Bureau, but no one offered up any information as to why the building was being dated the way it was. After a while, I more or less just came to the conclusion that they were probably rounding up. The building appears like it was constructed at the same time as the rest of the buildings on site so we still have another decade to go before its reaches its centennial.  

That being said, the Railway Bureau’s banquet hall is definitely the most elaborate in terms of its architectural design in comparison to the other buildings. Yes, it was constructed using hinoki cypress, one of the most expensive types of wood in Taiwan, but it also features the most elaborate roof. Even though the building doesn’t feature a traditional Japanese hip-and-gable roof, it has beautiful black Japanese roof tiles (黑瓦), which have recently been restored. It also features a lower second layer that extends entirely around the building and is held in place by a network of pillars. Similar to the covered walkways on the front buildings, this one has received a bit more attention in its design. 

Covered walkway next to the meeting hall

The last thing I’ll mention about the design of this building is its windows, there are large sliding glass windows on all four sides as well as rectangular-shaped windows above the first layer of the roof that allow natural light into the building. The lower sliding windows are of course quite common within Japanese architecture, but one thing you’ll want to pay attention to are the round dormer (oxeye) windows (老虎窗) on the front and back, which were pretty much only added for design purposes, but were popular for the more elaborate buildings of that era. 

Oh, and the ox-tail windows are part of the reason why I’d argue that the building isn’t a century-old as they are an architectural feature that started appearing on buildings after the 1920s.

Section 2 (二館區) - Engineering Works

The recently opened “Section 2” of the Railway Culture Park is much smaller than the main section, but if you ask me is a little more interesting. Unfortunately though, while the restoration of all of the buildings in this sections seems to have been recently completed, some of them remain empty and severely under-utilized. 

This will probably only be a short-term issue as they’ll certainly not allow their investment in the restoration of these buildings to go to waste. So, as I mentioned above, I’ll certainly have to be visit again to make sure that I have more photos of these buildings, especially of the interior!

This section of the Railway Bureau was considerably more functional than the other one, which mostly served an administrative purpose. Section 2 was home to the Engineering Works (工務段), and a police outpost (警務段), in addition to preserving part of the original railway that was used for the maintenance of trains. 

Even though the buildings in Section 2 are yet to be opened to the public on a full-time basis, I have to say that I actually enjoyed my visit to this part of the Railway Park more than the other section. The reason for this is because the buildings are more traditional in their architectural design, and because the area is covered with beautiful trees, which have been growing there since the buildings were constructed almost a century ago! 

A hundred-year old banyan tree in section two

Likewise, a couple of the buildings in this section have been opened up to private businesses, one of which currently has a Kimono rental place and another a really nice coffeeshop that has a couple of Shiba Inu’s who hang out in the area.

You’ll also find historic LDT103 steam locomotives on the rail tracks that you’re able to take photos with! 

The various buildings on site are as follows: 

  1. Engineering Works (工務段)

  2. Police Outpost (警務段 / 武道館)

  3. Detention Building (拘役所)

  4. Iron Works (打鐵工房)

  5. Warehouse (附屬倉庫)

  6. Air raid shelter (防空洞)

The first thing I’ll say about the section is that without its giant banyan tree (榕樹), I don’t think I would have enjoyed visiting as much as I did. The century-old tree provides both character and ambiance to the park, and the buildings that surround it should be grateful that they are able to bask in its glory.

The largest building in the park is the former Engineering Works (公務段 / こうむだん), which is now home to a popular coffee shop. The building was constructed in traditional Japanese architecture with Taiwanese wood and black roof files. The construction of the roof on this one is simple, but the sliding glass windows are quite beautiful. If you have the chance, make sure to go into the coffee shop to check out the interior of the building and enjoy a coffee. 

Link: The role of Public-Private Partnerships in Conserving Historic Buildings in Taiwan

Across from the Engineering Works, you’ll find a small Air Raid Shelter dug into the ground near the banyan tree, which you can check out. This one isn’t as large as the air raid shelter in the other section of the park, but it is probably big enough to fit a dozen or so people. 

The interior of the air raid shelter

Behind the banyan tree, you’ll find the former Iron Works (打鐵工坊), which retains some of the original equipment that was used for constructing and repairing rail lines. There’s not too much to see while inside the building, but it was a pretty important part of the Railway Bureau for quite some time. 

Interestingly, when we approached the Police Outpost (警務段), I commented that the exterior looked a bit like what you’d expect from one of Taiwan’s smaller Martial Arts Halls (武德殿) to which I received the comment, “But it isn’t, its an old police station!” Well, I am to boast that I had the last laugh on that one because research on the subject says that prior to 1946, the building was used for practicing Judo (柔道) and Kendo (劍道). It was only after the Japanese left Taiwan that it was converted to a police outpost. 

The exterior of the martial arts hall / police outpost

With that being said, near the former Martial Arts Hall / Police Outpost you’ll find a more recent addition, a cement structure that was used to hold prisoners on a short-term basis. The small jail (拘役所) is open to the public and its a popular place for people to take photos.

Unfortunately during my visit, both the jail and the former police outpost were closed and as I peered in through the windows, it looked as if the police outpost was emptied for some reason. 

The final building on the site is at the rear of the park and in the past was simply used as a storage warehouse. That being said, it looks like all of the other buildings on the site as it was constructed with wood, sliding glass windows and Japanese architecture. Even though it is quite small, today it is occupied by a private company that rents kimono, yukata, and specifically tailored outfits that were popular during the colonial era.

Buildings in section two

This part of the park is also home to an old section of the railway where you’ll find one of the old steam engines and freight cars on display. The steam engine was especially brought by the Taiwan Railway Administration to Hualien to put on display here as this type of steam engine was the one that was used to bring prosperity to the east coast. 

Getting There

 

Address: #71 Zhongshan Road, Hualien City

(花蓮縣花蓮市中山路71號)

GPS: 23.9721202 121.6130952

Located within the downtown core of Hualien, the Railway Bureau is a short walk from the city’s popular Dongdamen Night Market (東大門夜市) and is easily accessible through public transportation. 

That being said, the Railway Bureau is actually not all that close to the current Hualien Railway Station, which is probably a 20-30 minute commute if you’re walking. 

Car / Scooter

If you’re in Hualien and have access to a car or scooter, getting to the Railway Bureau isn’t all that difficult and there is an ample amount of parking in the area along the street or within the paid public parking lots near the night market. 

Simply input the address or the GPS coordinates provided above into your preferred geolocation assistant and you’ll be there in no time! 

Bus 

Given that the Railway Bureau is conveniently located within close proximity to the tourist night market, you’ll find a number of public transportation options for getting there from various areas around Hualien. So, even if you’re not located next to Hualien Station, you should be able to find a bus that fits your specific needs. 

Dongdamen Night Market Bus Stop (東大門夜市站)

  • Taroko Bus (太魯閣客運): #301, 307, 308

  • Hualien Bus (花蓮客運): #1123, 1126, 1128, 1129, 1131, 1132, 1133, 1136, 1139, 1141, 105

Xuanyuan Rd. Bus Stop (軒轅路站) 

While in Hualien, if you’re interested in similar Japanese era destinations, I highly recommend checking out the Hualien Martyrs Shrine (former Shinto Shrine), the Hualien Cultural and Creative Industries Park (花蓮文化創意產業園區), the Yoshino Shrine (慶修院), the Pine Garden (松園別館), the Hualien Sugar Factory Dorms (花蓮觀光糖廠), etc. 

There is certainly a lot to see and do while in Hualien and you should never feel like Taroko Gorge and the Qingshui Cliffs are the only destinations to visit! The city is home to quite a few historic tourist destinations where you’ll also be able to enjoy yourself! 

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday 09:00 - 17:00 (Closed on Mondays)

Unfortunately during my visit, quite a few of the buildings in both the First and Second Section in addition to the former Director’s Dormitory were not open to the public. In some cases it seems like they were in the process of changing exhibitions while others just weren’t open at all. So, as I mentioned a few times already, I’ll have to visit again to get more photos. When I do, I’ll update this space, but I’ll probably dedicate an entire article to the directors dormitory. 

Nevertheless, the Hualien County Government has spent a considerable amount of money restoring the former Railway Bureau and even though some of its space is under-utilized, they have come up with some pretty good ideas for attracting locals and tourists alike with weekend markets, film festivals and coffee shops in the historic buildings. 

Given the Railway Bureau’s close proximity to the popular Dongdamen Night Market, you can be sure that there will always be a steady supply of visitors coming to check it out! Even if this one isn’t as big on the historic displays of information, it is still a place where you can learn quite a bit about the important history of the railway in Taiwan, with a special focus on the east coast! 

References

  1. Hualien Railway Culture Park | 花蓮鐵道文化園區 (Wiki)

  2. 臺灣鐵道史 (Wiki)

  3. 花蓮鐵道文化園區 (花蓮綠活小旅行)

  4. 歷史沿革 (花蓮鐵道文化園區官方部落格)

  5. 花蓮舊鐵道商圈歷史與脈絡 (ArcGIS Online)

  6. 舊花蓮驛前碩果僅存的鐵道部出張所歷史建築 (獨立評論 @ 天下)

  7. 花蓮鐵道文化園區 (駱致軒)

  8. 修復半年 花蓮鐵道文化園區一館重新開放 (客家電視)

  9. 穿越百年鐵道時光!4處不可錯過的鐵道文化園區 (Newtalk新聞)

  10. 花蓮百年台鐵中山堂 擬打造鐵道電影院 (CNA)

  11. Hualien 太平洋臨港歷史廊道文化導覽 (花蓮縣全球資訊服務網)

  12. 和風老屋旅行散策 (江明麗) ISBN: 978-9862487594


Taiwan Prefectural City God Temple (臺灣府城隍廟)

Given that you can find a City God temple in every major city, town or village in Taiwan, it shouldn’t surprise anyone to know that there are close to a hundred of these places of worship throughout the country, celebrating an ancient Chinese folk religious tradition.

Having already published articles about the Xiahai City God Temple (霞海城隍廟), one of Taipei’s most important places of worship, and Hsinchu’s City God Temple (新竹城隍廟), the headquarters of all City God Temples in Taiwan, I figured it was about time to do another deep dive about one of the nation’s other ‘most influential’ City God temples - the one that started it all, namely the Taiwan Prefectural City God Temple (臺灣府城隍廟) in Tainan. 

With a history spanning several centuries, the temple originated during the Kingdom of Tungning era, and has continued to thrive through the Qing era, the Japanese era, and the current Republic of China era.

To put it simply, this City God temple has lived through some of the most tumultuous periods of Taiwan’s modern history, and continues to stand today as one of the nation’s most important places of worship, a national treasure if you will.

That being said, when you see someone claim that it’s three and a half centuries old, it’s true, but not necessarily true at the same time. 

Link: List of City God Temples in Taiwan 臺灣城隍廟列表 (Wiki)

Surprisingly, there are few articles that go into much detail about this important place of worship, both in Chinese or English, so I’ll be doing a bit of a deep dive on this one having spent a considerable amount of time researching its history and architectural design. So with that in mind, I’m just going to get right into it. 

Taiwan Prefectural City God Temple (臺灣府城隍廟)

Few places of worship (or any building for that matter) in Taiwan can claim a history of over three and a half centuries, but if you’re looking for some, look no further than the southern city of Tainan

Tainan as an organized city has changed considerably over the various periods of Taiwan’s modern development, but starting from the Dutch era, the city became an important trading port for the European powers. Things changed considerably however when Koxinga (鄭成功) and his band of pirate ships showed up and forcibly removed the Dutch. The large fleet of ships (fleeing dynastic regime change back in China) arrived in Taiwan hoping to ‘regroup’ in order to go back to China and restore the Ming Emperor.

Koxinga, and his family quickly established a Chinese-style settlement in Tainan, which (at that time) was referred to as ’Hú-siâ’ (府城) in Hokkien, which is where the temple derives its name.

While developing the city, which would ultimately become the capital of the Kingdom of Tunging (東寧王國), it was important for the ruling class that a ‘Chinese style societal structure’ was imposed on the people of the newly formed kingdom. So, they founded a Confucius Temple, the first in Taiwan - which was tasked with training civil servants. It is said that Koxinga placed quite a bit of importance on Confucian thought and philosophy, and the construction of a shrine, where Imperial Examinations (科舉) could be held was important to the fledgling ‘kingdom’ seeking to maintain the traditions of the Ming dynasty.

With the Confucius Temple constructed in 1665, one of the next steps for the Zheng Family was to construct a City God Temple for which they could better instill the values of the newly formed system of governance. One of the things that you have to keep in mind about City God worship (I’ll explain more later) is that the City God is essentially a celestial civil servant, like a governor or a mayor - and it is the role of his court to oversee everything that is taking place within his territorial boundaries. The human rulers of a specific area were required to pay homage to the local City God, while at the same time using his example to teach people about traditional Chinese styles of governance. That being said, life in the early days of an undeveloped Tainan was harsh, and even Koxinga himself died of Malaria, so even though City God worship was beneficial to the ruling elite, it might have also been to their detriment if they weren’t living in a military dictatorship.

Constructed in 1669 as the “Sêng-thian-hú Prefectural City God Temple” (承天府城隍廟), the temple, like its Confucius Temple counterpart, was the first of its kind in Taiwan, and the City God enshrined within was considered to be the highest ranking in the ‘prefecture’, which pretty much meant the entire island of Taiwan. 

Language note: The words “Sêng-thian-hú” are the Taiwanese Hokkien pronunciation for “Cheng-tian fu” (承天府), which was the term used at the time to refer to the governing territory of Taiwan. Similarly, Chinese capitals Nanjing (南京) and Beijing (北京) were referred to as “Ying-tian fu” (應天府) and “Shun-tian fu” (順天府) respectively.

When the temple was constructed over three and a half centuries ago, it was a considerably smaller place of worship than it appears today - As you’ll see in the timeline provided below, there have been numerous occasions where the temple was renovated, expanded upon and restored, culminating in it doubling in size with additional shrines and decorations added later. 

With regard to architectural changes though, I’ll touch more on that later.

What I think is important to note about the City God temple was the special relationship it maintained with regard to the ever-changing political situation over the various eras of Taiwan’s modern history. The temple was regarded as the most important City God temple during the Kingdom of Tungning era, which lasted from 1661–1683. When the Qing took control of Taiwan, it maintained its role as the highest-ranking shrine in Taiwan until 1891 when the Qing court officially recognized the Hsinchu City God Temple as the highest-ranking temple in Taiwan. Not much changed in this regard during the Japanese-era, but when the Chinese Nationalists took control of Taiwan, they constructed the “Taiwan Provincial City God Temple” (臺灣省城隍廟) in Taipei and attempted to shift the balance of power away from the Hsinchu temple, but it doesn’t really seem like many actually paid attention to those efforts. 

These days we have a bit of a delicate situation with three high-ranking City God’s presiding over the nation - but when it comes to people’s attitudes about these temples, the Hsinchu Temple is probably the most popular as it maintains its role as the ‘headquarters’ of all of Taiwan’s nearly one-hundred City God temples. The Tainan temple on the other hand is highly respected as it is the first of its kind in Taiwan, and its history and architectural design are considered to be a national treasure, which is why it has been permitted to keep its name.

And the temple in Taipei… Well, I suppose it was useful for propaganda purposes, but it’s neither historic, nor as widely frequented as the other two.  

Below, I’ve created a timeline of some of the most important events in the temple’s long history: 

Timeline

  • 1661 (永曆15年) - The Kingdom of Tungning (東寧王國) is established in Tainan by Koxinga and his  army of Ming loyalists. 

  • 1665 (康熙4年) - The Tainan Confucius Temple is officially established nearby in an effort to promote Ming Dynasty-style governance and cultivating a local civil service. 

  • 1669 (永曆23年) - The “Chengtian Prefectural City God Temple” (承天府城隍廟) is constructed in an eastern area of the city then known as ‘Tong-an-hong’ (東安坊) near the East Gate (東門). 

  • 1683 (康熙22年) - The Kingdom of Tungning is annexed by the Qing, who take control of parts of Taiwan. 

  • 1693 (康熙32年) - The temple undergoes its first of many renovation and restoration projects. 

  • 1752 (乾隆17年) - Official records indicate that the renovation project started decades earlier is completed and the the temple design is officially a ‘Two Hall’ (兩段式廟宇) layout.

  • 1758 (乾隆24年) - 1777 (乾隆42年) - Once again, the temple is renovated and expanded on and pretty much doubles in size transforming into the layout that we see today (四進兩廂房式的廟宇建築). 

  • 1827 (道光7年) - The temple undergoes a period of repair (natural disaster related)

  • 1828 (道光8年) - The temple is officially renamed “Taiwan Prefectural City God Temple” (臺灣府城隍廟). 

  • 1862 (同治元年) - The temple undergoes a period of repair (natural disaster related)

  • 1890 (光緒16年) - The temple undergoes a period of repair (natural disaster related)

  • 1891 (光緒17年) - Hsinchu is upgraded as a city in Taipei Prefecture, and the Hsinchu City God temple is upgraded into a prefectural-level temple. 

  • 1895 (明知28年) - Japan takes control of Taiwan.

  • 1907 (明知40年) - Due to Japan’s urban renewal plans, the road in front of the temple is modernized and widened for cars, reducing the size of the front court yard. 

  • 1934 (昭和9年) - The temple undergoes another period of extensive restoration and modernization with celebrations held at the end of the project. 

  • 1937 (昭和12年) - The '爾來了’ plaque is gifted to the temple. 

  • 1945 (民國34年) - Japan surrenders control of Taiwan and the temple starts a long restoration project. 

  • 1947 (民國36年) - The Taiwan Provincial City God Temple (臺灣省城隍廟) is constructed in Taipei and the City God once again is ranked the highest in Taiwan, another awkward situation. 

  • 1952 (民國41年) - After seven years, the restoration project is finally completed. 

  • 1975 (民國64年) - The temple undergoes another period of restoration and new Door Gods are added by a famed local artist named Pan Lishui. 

  • 1982 (民國71年) - Qingnian Road is widened to 15m, reducing the size of the front courtyard (廟埕) and putting the road next to the front door. 

  • 1983 (民國85年) - The temple undergoes a period of restoration paid for by the government.

  • 2005 (民國94年) - The temple is officially designated as a protected historic site (國定古蹟).  

Now that we’ve talked a bit about the history of this temple, to better understand the deities enshrined within, I’ll introduce them individually as briefly as I can. Before I do, keep in mind that even though this temple is primarily a Chinese Folk Religion place of worship, you’re also going to find figures commonly associated with Taoism and Buddhism. The great thing about this is that unlike other areas around the world, here in Taiwan the mixing of religious traditions isn’t a big deal, and everyone has happily gotten along for the past few hundred years. 

The City God (城隍爺)

Most often referred to as the City God (城隍) in English, "Cheng Huang Ye" (城隍爺) is an influential figure in Taoism, and even though he’s considered a ‘tutelary’ deity (and isn’t one of the figures that frequents the Jade Emperor’s celestial court), he is still an important figure within the hierarchy of deities, especially within Chinese Folk Religion.  

Worship of the City God is thought to have originated over two thousand years ago, but is a religious tradition that has evolved over time with changes in political ideology, in addition to societal changes, and the concept of a modern city or town. Once a minor figure within Chinese Folk Religion, worship of the City God was popularized during the late stages of the Ming Dynasty, and continued well into the Qing Dynasty.

Considered to be a protector deity, the City God acts as a liaison between the living and the supernatural and plays an important role in assisting the earthly bureaucracy in making the ‘right’ decisions in addition to assisting governments in maintaining order. The function of the City God, whose name literally translates as the god of "walls and moats" (城 means 'city' while 隍 is a 'moat') was to act as a supernatural 'magistrate' who would make decisions about a city's governance (along with human colleagues). He was also responsible for acting as a judge for those citizens who lived within the borders of the city, in addition to working to keep it safe.

Essentially, the City God is not unlike a traditional court official governing from a throne room with a long list of assistants helping to maintain order. As a supernatural magistrate, City God shrines typically appear in a similar design to what you’d expect from a throne room, and the City God is always surrounded by his officials and protectors. From his throne room, the City God would help to oversee development of the city and its defense, and assist in solving issues for the citizens living within his jurisdiction and more importantly handing out judgement for those who have done wrong. 

Link: City God | 城隍 (Wiki)

The traditional role of the City God has evolved over time and these days fills the role of an ‘all-purpose’ deity who holds authority with regard to matters of life and death within his specific territory, but also offers assistance to people suffering from poor health, or other contemporary issues. With the societal shifts mentioned above, the City God has changed with the times and has transformed from a simple village guardian to a figure regarded as a protector deity of the modern-nation-state. 

One area that sets the City God apart from many of his supernatural colleagues is that in the early days of City God worship, if people prayed for rain and the god failed to 'bring the rain', it was within their ability to hold the god 'accountable' and punish him. Punishments for such heinous inaction on the part of the City God could include leaving his statue out in the hot sun, or having the local governor or magistrate whip him.

This is something that is pretty much unfathomable for the high-ranking members of the Jade Emperor’s Celestial Court, but is an interesting concept where even supernatural beings are able to be held accountable for not holding up their end of the bargain!

These days, worship of the City God has changed considerably, and the notion of dragging him out of his throne room to torture him is probably impossible. Even here in Taiwan where there are ninety-five temples dedicated in his honor, no one mistreated any of his statues during the most recent several-year long drought which caused water shortages around the country.

One thing that most people don’t actually realize about the City God is that his supernatural powers are divided up based on the area that he represents, which is something that is quite significant to this temple; To put it simply, if you come across a City God temple in a small town or city, his influence isn’t as powerful as that of a ‘prefectural’ or ‘national-level’ version.

The City God’s official divisions are as follows: 

  1. National Level City God (都城隍、府城隍), known formally as the Duke Xiang (享公爵)

  2. State / Provincial Level City God (州城隍), known formally as the Marquis of Xiang (享侯爵)

  3. County / Town Level City God (縣城隍), known formally as the Earl of Xiang (享伯爵)

Given that this is the ‘Taiwan Prefectural City God Temple’, the City God that is enshrined within is the National Level City God, who is regarded as the “Duke of Wei” (衛靈公) and is one of the highest ranking in Taiwan. 

Having already read the history of the temple above, you’ll know that when it was first constructed, during the short-lived Kingdom of Tungning era, where its purpose was to serve in the capital of the kingdom, which was located in present-day Tainan. With that in mind, it’s important to note that there is also a ‘Duke of Wei’ level City God in the Hsinchu City God Temple, which is currently the most influential City God temple in Taiwan as it acts as the headquarters for the rest.

Ultimately when it comes to the City God, there is a considerable amount of politics that needs to be taken into consideration, and that is usually something that takes place here with us humans who use these images to our own advantage.  

The Civil and Martial Judges (文武判官)

Accompanying the City God in the main shrine of the temple you’ll find standing statues of two of the City God’s most important officials, the Civil and Martial Judges. Starting on the right, you’ll find the “Civil Judge” (文判官) with the ‘book of life and death’ (生死簿) in one hand and a brush in the other. The function of the Civil Judge is to record both the good and bad deeds in ones life and judge them accordingly when they pass away. On the left, you’ll find the “Martial Judge” (武判官), who is responsible for the enforcement of the City God’s judgements. Holding a mace in his left hand, this judge is a much more opposing and serious-looking figure and is responsible for the scarier aspects of a City God’s duties.  

The City God’s Twenty-Four Officials (二十四司 / 司爺)

Located within a glass-covered compartment on walls to the left and right of the main shrine you’ll find twenty-four statues of the rest of the City God’s spiritual assistants. According to tradition, the twenty-four officials are an imitation of the ancient official system of governance in China with each of the officials performing a specific duty. In a contemporary sense, they are basically ‘department heads’ or ministers of each of their respective bureaus. For brevity, I won’t be going into detail about each of their names or their responsibilities, but for example you’ll find someone who takes care of labor rights, household rights, education, national defense, etc.

For reference: Their names are as follows: 陰陽司、速報司、稽查司、賞善司、罰惡司、註福司、註壽司、功曹司、良願司、提刑司、地獄司、驅疫司、感應司、文書司、檢簿司、掌案司、考功司、保安司、查過司、學政司、典籍司、督糧司、巡政司、儀禮司。

Unfortunately there isn’t very much information available about these guys in English, so if I find some time in the future, I might go into a bit more detail about them with a dedicated article. They’re actually quite interesting and are essentially a supernatural mirror into the way people perceived governance a thousand or more years ago.  

Generals Fan and Hsieh (范謝將軍)

Located at the entrance to the temple, you’ll find shrines dedicated to General Fan (范將軍) and General Hsieh (謝將軍), who together are more commonly known as the “Seventh and Eighth Lords” (七爺八爺), or the “Black and White Impermanence” (黑白無常), and are common figures within Taiwan’s religious scene, especially at temple festivals.

Often appearing in parades with long waving hands, the two generals are important members of the City Gods court and are charged with carrying out the task of escorting the dead to trial to be judged by the City God. 

Link: 范謝將軍 (Wiki)

How does one go about telling the two generals apart? 

Well, their name “Black and White Impermanence” as mentioned above is probably one of the best indications given that one of the generals appears in white while the other is black. General Hsieh, who greets you at the entrance to the temple (right side) is tall and thin, and wears while robes with long eyebrows and a beard. His counterpart, General Fan, on the other hand is short and chubby with dark skin and a black robe. 

Given that the two of these generals play an important role in carrying out the judgements of the City God, (especially with regard to the afterlife), having them at the front door is a constant reminder to anyone who enters that they should be on their best behavior. 

General Hsieh: Wearing white robes and holding a feather fan in his hand. 

General Fan: Wearing black robes and holding a square card connected to a chain that has tiger heads painted on it.

Generals Gan and Liu (甘柳將軍)

Accompanying the smaller statues of General Fan and Hsieh are two of their associates, General’s Gan (甘爺) and Liu (柳爺), who are famously part of the fierce Eight Generals (八家將), and can be commonly found roaming the streets (in human form) during temple festivals. 

Both generals are part of the “Front Line” (頭排) of the group of underworld immortals and are responsible for carrying out executions.

Interestingly, they take turns supervising people’s good and bad deeds during the day, which means that you won’t often find them appearing together unless there is an important event. 

In statue form, they appear quite menacing, but when they’re in human form in front of you on the street with their weapons used for torture, they’re even scarier. Still, they’re part of one of the coolest aspects of Taiwan temple culture, and their appearance at any event is an important occasion. 

The City God's Wife (城隍夫人)

In the rear hall, you’ll find a second City God-related shrine dedicated to his wife, who is known simply as “The City God’s Wife.”

Despite the obvious arguments of gender inequality that come with this, the City God's Wife is an important fixture within any City God temple, and a temple dedicated to the City God couldn’t be complete without a shrine to his wife, who also performs official state functions like her husband. 

While the City God is busy being the all-important political figure, his wife deals with matters of the heart and is known as a ‘Chinese Cupid’ of sorts. Tradition has it that if you’re praying for love, marriage or having children, she’s the one you’ll want to visit in order to take care of all your needs.

Making things even better, if your husband has undesirable habits such as gambling, drinking or sleeping around - she'll also help take care of that!

While it may come across as a sexist tradition to some, the City God's wife is highly respected, and with a palace of her own, she’s just as important as the City God himself. And as mentioned above, taking into consideration that these temples are often a reflection of the ancient Chinese court-system, their shrines mirror that of the roles that leaders of the past would have had.

Interestingly, in many City God temples you’ll often find photos of happy couples posted nearby the shrine to the City God’s wife thanking her for her assistance in helping people to find true love. 

In the case of this temple, the City God’s Wife is located in the Rear Shrine (後殿), but she isn’t located in the main shrine in the centre as you’ll find in other City God temples. Her shrine is to the right of the main shrine, and in another departure from what you’d typically see in one of her shrines, she is accompanied by a statue of her husband, who sits side-by-side with her. 

The Goddess of Child Birth (註生娘娘)

Following along with shrines that are predominately dedicated to women, visitors will find a statue dedicated to the ‘Goddess of Childbirth’, also known as the ‘Goddess of Fertility’ (註生娘娘), who is of the most highly respected fertility deities in Chinese Folk Religion, especially for those hailing from the Southern Fujian region of China - where many of the first immigrants to Taiwan originated. 

Holding a notebook in one hand and a brush in the other, she is in charge of recording the births of every household, and does her best to assist anyone having trouble having children. 

Ms. Linshui (臨水夫人)

Sitting next to the Goddess of Child Birth, you’ll find another Southern Fujianese goddess, “Ms. Linshui” (臨水夫人). With regard to the English translation of her name, I decided to go with “Ms.” instead of “Wife” as is the case with the City God’s partner above.

This is due to the fact that I’m not particularly sure who her husband is supposed to be and the word “夫人” doesn’t necessarily have to mean “wife” as it was a sign of respect (for women) hundreds of years ago.  

According to legend, Ms. Linshui was a well-known Taoist priest named Chen Jinggu (陳靖姑) who became a goddess after death. Known to the Hokkien people as a protector of villages, she is also known as the patron saint of women and children.

Mazu (天上聖母)

Rounding out the shrine dedicated to Southern Fujian goddesses, I’ve saved the most important for last - Mazu (媽祖), or the Goddess of Heaven (天上聖母) is arguably the most important religious figure in Taiwan, and is regarded as the patron saint of the country.

Finding a shrine dedicated to the ‘heavenly mother’ is a pretty common thing in Taiwan, and even moreso in Tainan, but it’s important to remember that when this shrine was constructed, Mazu worship in Taiwan was still relatively new.

The statue of Mazu here certainly isn’t as grand as what you’d find at the nearby Goddess of Heaven Temple (天后宮), but given that she’s situated next to some other amazing Hokkien goddesses, its a pretty important one that represents the power and important role that women play in society.  

Guanyin (觀音菩薩)

Located within the middle shrine in the rear hall is the Buddha of Compassion, known throughout the Mandarin speaking world as Guanyin (觀音菩薩).

Within the Mahayana Buddhist tradition, the Buddha of Compassion is a Buddha who is constantly reborn with the mission to ensure that all of humanity has the opportunity to reach enlightenment. 

In Tibet, the Buddha of Compassion is none other than the Dalai Lama, but in Taiwan, China and other parts of Asia, the Buddha manifests as the mother-like Guanyin. Here in Taiwan, Guanyin is one of the most highly regarded Buddhist figures, and her worship transcends Buddhism, which is why you’ll often find shrines in her honor within Taoist and folk religion temples, like this one. 

With that in mind, as the Buddha of Compassion, whenever something bad happens, Guanyin is always one of the first religious figures that people think of, so it shouldn’t be surprising that there is a shrine in her honor in this temple.

What does surprise me however is that her shrine is located in the middle position, which in most cases should be reserved for the throne of the City God’s Wife. Unfortunately I’ve been unable to find any explanation as to why it was set up in this way. 

The Eighteen Arhats (十八羅漢)

Given that the main shrine in the rear palace is primarily dedicated to Guanyin, a Buddhist figure, you’ll find statues of the ‘eighteen disciples’ of the Buddha located along the left and right walls, with nine on each side. The eighteen arhats are interesting figures, so if you’re visiting the temple, I recommend taking a close look at each of the statues as some of them are likely to appear a bit differently than what you’d expect from one of the Buddha’s disciples. 

Like the twenty-four judges above, I won’t be going into too much detail about the arhats as there is already an ample amount of information about them online. If you’d like to know more, click one of the links below. 

Link: Eighteen Arhats | 十八羅漢 (Wiki)

Ksitigarbha (地藏菩薩)

Kṣitigarbha Buddha, known in Taiwan and China as “Dizang” (地藏菩薩), and Japan as “Jizo”(じぞうぼさつ), like Guanyin mentioned above is another Buddha who has vowed to continue being reborn until his mission is complete. In this case though, Ksitigarbha’s mission is to ensure that all of the people suffering through ‘karmic hell’ are eventually guided through to enlightenment. The role this Buddha plays in countries across Asia differs slightly, but taking into consideration how Taiwan has been influenced by both Chinese and Japanese Buddhist traditions, his worship tends to be a mixture of the two.

Link: Kṣitigarbha | 地藏菩薩 (Wiki) 

In Japan, he plays a role similar to Taiwan’s Earth God (described below), and is also a protector of women and children, and pays special attention to unborn children. In the Chinese tradition, he is the person people visit to pray for blessings to the souls of their ancestors.  

The Earth God (福德正神)

Located along the passageway to the right of the rear shrine you’ll find a shrine set up another one of Taiwan’s most important deities, the Earth God (福德正神).

If I was to make an analogy about deities in Taiwan, shrines dedicated to Mazu would be a bit like Family Mart (全家) while shrines dedicated to the Earth God are like 7-11 convenience stores. This is to say that there are certainly more 7-11’s around the country, but Family Mart is still pretty awesome.

Even though Mazu is regarded as the patron saint of Taiwan, the Earth God remains to be one of the most highly worshiped deities around the country, and temples and shrines in his honor can be found pretty much everywhere. Shrines to the Earth God are likely to be found in almost every major temple, so even though the shrine here isn’t at the forefront of the temple, his inclusion is still a necessity.

Accompanying the Earth God is one of my favorite folk religion figures, the Tiger General (虎爺將軍), who you’ll find located just below the shrine to the Earth God. Legend has it that the Tiger General is so ferocious that only the Earth God can contain him. While it may appear that the Tiger General is the Earth God’s pet, I wouldn’t say something like that out loud.

When it comes to evil spirits, the Tiger General is especially skilled at scaring them off. He’s also known as the protector of children, and is known for his skills when it comes to helping people make money. 

The God of Matchmaking (月下老人)

Last but not least, the temple features a modest shrine to the ‘God of Matchmaking’, known literally as the “Old Man Under the Moon” (月下老人) or “Yue Lao” (月老). You might be thinking, “Hey doesn’t the City God’s Wife already cover that?”, and you’d be right. But within Chinese Folk Religious traditions, the God of Matchmaking is your go-to person for all romance-related problems, whereas the City God’s wife focuses much of her power on taking care of women. 

The shrine to the God of Matchmaking is located along the western wall of the rear hall, and you’ll notice that there are lots of photos of couples next to the shrine. Sometimes the photos of these couples are fun to look at, because they’re all people who visited the shrine looking for love, and came back later to thank the god when they found someone. 

Architectural Design

Even though the layout of the temple has changed considerably over the past three and a half centuries, it continues to maintain what you’d consider a traditional architectural design. Constructed in a North-facing-South (座北朝南) direction, the layout consists of ‘three hall and two-passage-way’ design (三殿兩護龍). What this means in layman's terms is that the temple was constructed according to Feng Shui, and is rectangular in shape with three different sections, a common design for temples.

With regard to the three ‘halls’ (殿), the front reception area (山門) acts as the one of the halls, while the City God shrine is located in the ‘Main Hall’ (正殿), and the ‘Rear Hall’ (後殿) is located behind that and features another shrine room. The two ‘passage ways’ on the other hand are located along the east and west-side walls, and in contemporary terms would be referred to simply as ‘walkways’ (走廊), but in a folk religion setting they are given the official name, ‘protector dragons’ (護龍), and allow visitors to make their way from the front entrance all the way to the rear courtyard in a counter-clockwise direction.

Starting from the front of the temple, you’ll find that the entrance has three doors, known locally as the Dragon Door (龍門), Middle Door (中門) and Tiger door (虎門). Located on either side of the Middle Door you’ll find a pair of beautifully carved Stone Lion Guardians (石獅), each of which date back to 1937 and amazingly continue to have their Japanese-era dates displayed on the base, which reads “Showa Era Year 12” (昭和丁丑). 

The roof of the front hall is designed with a traditional single-layered swallow-tail design (單脊燕尾造型), and is decorated with green porcelain dragons on each of its rising ridges. On the apex of the roof you’ll find the famed ‘Sanxing’ (三星) deities Fu, Lu and Shou (福祿壽) who are considered to the be embodiment of ‘Fortune’ (福), Prosperity (祿), and Longevity (壽), and are commonly found on temple roofs all across Taiwan. You’ll also find other cut-porcelain carvings (剪瓷雕) along the roof, which have become indicative of traditional Hokkien-style architecture in Taiwan.   

Links: Sanxing | 三星 | Hokkien Architecture | 燕尾脊 (Wiki) 

It’s not often that I actually learn new words when I write these articles, but as you enter the temple you are met with an area reserved for prayers referred to as a ‘Chuan-tang prayer pavilion’ (川堂拜亭), admittedly a loose translation.

This part of the temple features an area where guests are free to sit on one of the provided cushions to worship the City God. The reason why I’m learning a new word here is due to the fact that these prayer areas aren’t as common in temples anymore as most people complete their prayers while standing. 

Coincidentally in a lot of temples, this particular area would be a roofless court-like area that allows for natural light to come into the temple and the burning incense to leave. However, as this is a City God Temple, it differs in its design as temples like this are traditionally constructed to be a bit ‘darker’ than your average temple, creating what should be a more solemn and mysterious space like that of a governmental office.

With this in mind, you’ll probably also notice that the elaborate designs and bright gold decorations that you find in other Taiwanese temples aren’t utilized here as the City God prefers a much more subtle throne room given that he has little use for luxurious decorations.

Taking into consideration that there is an open space along the eastern and western walls between the Front Hall and the Main Hall, its important to take note of the network of pillars located between the ‘Chuan-tang’ pavilion and the Main Hall. In total there are eight stone pillars, with four on each side, and while they are decorative they serve a more functional purpose in helping to keep the roof above in place. 

Once you’ve passed through the Main Hall and go to the rear, you’ll find a much more open space  and brighter space featuring an open roof that allows an ample amount of natural light into the rear shrine room. One of my favorite features of the rear hall though isn’t its more bright and spacious design but the round open passage doors along the eastern and western walls. These round doors can be found in some of Taiwan’s older places of worship, but it is an architectural design that has been lost over time, which is a shame. 

Although the rear hall is a lot more spacious and brighter, it is also a bit cramped as it features three shrines in the center, with two more to their sides and another against the wall. With more than eighteen deities featured within the rear hall, its spaciousness can also come across as a bit busy, especially if there are a lot of people visiting. 

Finally, if you continue walking beyond the rear hall to the back of the temple you’ll come across something that is quite odd in Taiwan - grass!

The temple is home to a ‘backyard’ of sorts where there is a very nice public washroom, and a large paper burner next to a garden with grass and a beautiful Chinese-style open air pavilion. The area is quite nice, but with the recent construction of a luxury apartment building to the rear of the temple, the view from the garden isn’t as nice as I’m sure it used to be.

That being said, if you’re doing a walking tour of the area and require a nice washroom to relieve yourself, I highly recommend this one! 

While this is more of a general description of the architectural design of the temple, I do want to focus on a few of the decorative elements that really stand out. If you visit, it’s important that you take note of these things as they’re important cultural relics here in Taiwan. 

Stone and Wood Carvings (石雕/木雕)

While the temple might differ from other temples in Taiwan with regard to its decorative elements, it’s important to note that the major difference is that it doesn’t go over the top. The decorative elements in the temple are subdued, but also aged at the same time. So while you don’t experience the over-saturation of color that you get at most temples, if you pay close attention, you’re going to notice that there is considerable artistic mastery on display throughout the temple, but the devil is in the details, and you really have to take some time to notice it. 

With regard to the stone carvings, you’ll want to pay attention to the pillars mentioned above, each of which feature stone carvings. Located between the Middle Door at the front entrance you’ll find two beautifully carved dragon pillars and several murals along the walls nearby.

Likewise along the eastern and western walls between the Front Hall and the Main Hall you’ll find two large murals of a dragon (天井龍堵石刻) and a tiger (天井虎堵石刻). The murals position, following the tradition of the ‘dragon’ door and the ‘tiger’ door with the dragon on the right side and the tiger on the left. 

When it comes to the wooden carvings, you’ll have to look to the sky to find them. The wooden carvings, which have been masterfully crafted are located along along the network of trusses and beams that help to keep the roof in place and distribute its weight. You are going to find various designs within the carvings, which are usually of ancient Chinese mythical creatures, but are all really beautiful and have been part of the temple for hundreds of years.

The most obvious of all the wood carvings, or at least the one that is at eye-level is the beautifully crafted wooden panel window (木雕門版) on either side of the middle door. When it comes to these hand-carved wooden panel windows, they’re somewhat of a dying art in Taiwan, and in most cases you’ll find them today made of cement, which is a shame.

For foreign visitors looking at the mural, you might think its just a hodge-podge of images, but in actuality both murals, if put together are telling the story of the ‘Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea’ which is one of the most popular Taoist myths. 

Link: The Eight Immortals Cross the Sea (The Daoist Encyclopedia)

The Iconic Plaque (爾來了匾額)

As soon as you enter the temple, you’re met with one of it’s most well-known, and highly-regarded decorations, the “You’re finally here!” plaque.

Considered to be one of Tainan’s ‘four famous plaques’ (臺南四大名匾), it is one of those things that most locals in Taiwan are aware of, even before they visit the shrine as it is often covered in history textbooks in Taiwan’s schools.

For reference: The other three plaques are: 「一」at Tiantan Temple (天壇), 「了然世界」at Zhuxi Temple (竹溪寺), and「大丈夫」at the Martial Temple (祀典武廟). 

The black plaque features beautiful golden calligraphy that, as mentioned above, translates as “You’re finally here!” (爾來了) a phrase that is used somewhat ironically, or in a condescending tone.

The reason for this is quite simple - the City God is pretty much always watching you, and he knows the good things you’ve done, as well as the bad. For westerners, I guess this is comparable to Santa Claus, but unfortunately for children Santa doesn’t have a temple where you can go to apologize for your transgressions. As a judicial deity, the City God has control over Yin and Yang (陰陽), and its his role to deal out demerits for any karmic misdeeds in your life.

So, when people arrive and see this beautiful plaque, its a reminder that you not only have to be a better, more righteous person. You should likewise come often to confess those sins to the City God so that when you pass away, your demerits don’t outweigh the good things that you’ve accomplished. 

The Abacus (大算盤) 

Located in the rafters directly opposite the plaque, you’ll find a giant abacus, which is another one of the most important decorative elements of the temple. Considered to be one of the City God’s most important tools upon which he comes to a conclusion about a person’s life, the abacus is a reminder to people, like the plaque, that you should always be on your best behavior. 

Both the plaque and the abacus were donated to the temple upon the completion of a major restoration project in 1937

Door Gods (門神)

The Door Gods at the shrine are classified as“Martial” (武將) and “Literary” (文官) with Qin Shubao (秦瓊) and his counterpart Yuchi Gong (尉遲恭) located on the middle door (中門). Qin is the lighter-skinned man carrying a sword while Yuchi has dark skin and carries batons.

The two figures are legendary figures who lived the Tang Dynasty (唐朝), and are commonly displayed as door gods on temples thanks to a story that explains how they once stood guard at the door of the emperors bedroom to protect him from angry ghosts, allowing him to rest peacefully.

On the Dragon Door (龍門), you’ll find a ‘Eunuch’ (宦官) holding a peony and an incense burner while the Tiger Door (虎門) on the other side features a ‘Palace Lady’ (宮女) holding a teapot. Both of these door gods are used to indicate that there is a royal palace on the inside. 

Even though the temple itself is hundreds of years old, these beautifully painted Door Gods only date back to 1976 when they were repainted by famed Tainan artist Phuann Lē-tsuí (潘麗水), whose work can be viewed all over Taiwan today in many of the nations most important places of worship. 

Link: Pan Li-shui's art (The Bradt Taiwan Taiwan Guide)

Getting There

 

Address: No. 133, Qingnian Rd., West Central Dist., Tainan City (臺南市中西區青年路133號)

GPS: 120.20906/22.991987

Located a short distance from Tainan Train Station, getting to the City God Temple is relatively easy if you’re coming from out of town.

That being said, if you’re staying closer to some of the city’s larger attractions like the Confucius Temple, or Chikan Tower, there is a bit of a distance between them. Unfortunately, given the temple’s proximity to the railway station, there aren’t too many buses available that will bring you directly to the temple. 

Train / High Speed Rail

If you’re taking a train to Tainan, the temple is less than a ten minute walk away from the railway station, so if you’re not carrying too much with you, you’ll probably just want to make your way on foot. To get there, you’ll turn left from the station front and walk down Beimen Road (北門路) until you reach Qingnian Road (青年路) where you’ll turn right and walk until you get to the temple. 

If you’re arriving in Tainan from the High Speed Railway Station (台南高鐵站), you’ll have to first take the free shuttle bus to the Tainan Railway Station and then follow the steps above. 

Bus

Most local travel sites recommend you take Bus #2, 5, 6, 7, 15, 19, 25, or 26 and get off at the Tang Te-chang Memorial Park bus stop (民生綠園站) and either walk or take a taxi from there. One thing you’ll want to note is that the park itself is located within a traffic circle, so when you get off the bus you have to be careful about which direction you head in when you are making your way toward the temple. 

Link: Tainan City Bus Website

Scooter / Bicycle

While in Tainan you unfortunately won’t have access to Youbikes like other cities around the country, but the city has its own version called “T-Bike,” which you are encouraged to make use of during your visit. Likewise, if you have a drivers license you can also sign up for the convenient GoShare scooter service that’ll allow you to cheaply scoot around the city. 

Links: GoShare | T-Bike

As is the case in most of Taiwan’s large cities, you’ll also find scooter rental shops near the railway station where you can rent a scooter for the duration of your stay. The prices per day are usually pretty fair, but if you don’t have a local license, you might be refused. 

If you’re asking me, Tainan is a very walkable city and one of the best things about a visit to the city is that as you walk around town you’re able to find so many secret crevices in alleys that are hidden from your average tourist. With a distance of less then 10-20 minutes walking from anywhere you’ll want to visit in the historic district, you’ll certainly enjoy your visit better if you walk. 

While in Tainan, you’ll also want to check out the Koxinga Shrine (延平郡王祠), the Confucius Temple (台南孔廟), and the Tainan Martial Arts Hall (台南武德殿), all of which are nearby. Likewise, you may have already heard that it’s pretty much the culinary capital of Taiwan, so if you are wondering where or what to eat, I recommend checking out this article about how to Eat Like a Local in Tainan to help guide you through the city.

Hours: Open daily from 06:00 - 21:00

References

  1. 臺灣府城隍廟 (TW CITY GOD)

  2. 臺灣府城隍廟 (Wiki)

  3. 臺灣府城隍廟 (Taiwan Gods) 

  4. 臺灣府城隍廟 (Taiwan Digital Archives)

  5. 臺灣府城隍廟 (臺南宗教藝術)

  6. 臺灣府城隍廟 (台灣文化部)

  7. 臺灣府城隍廟 (台南咬一口)

  8. 台南-台灣府城隍廟 (Just a Balcony)

  9. 台灣城隍廟{二} (台南顯佑堂安溪城隍爺的部落格)

  10. Taiwan Fu City God Temple (TW CITY GOD)

  11. Taiwan City God Temple / 臺灣府城隍廟 (Travel Tainan / 台南旅遊網)

  12. City God Temples (Premier Hotels)

  13. Chenghuang—City God, Judge, and Underworld Official (Digital Taiwan)


Taoyuan Police Dormitories (桃園77藝文町)

When I first came to Taiwan, I took a job that required splitting time between Zhongli and Taoyuan, which unfortunately required traveling back and forth, and a lot of stress - because you know, Taiwanese traffic. 

Obviously, this was before I knew very much about the country, so like any fresh-of-the-boat foreigner, I like to think that I should be excused for not noticing every little thing that crossed my path. Obviously, as the years went by, I learned more and more about my new home, and my explorations started to become a bit more adventurous compared when I had first arrived. 

One of those adventures fortunately included a visit to the Zhongli Police Dorms to check out their original abandoned condition, prior to restoration. In retrospect, even though I probably walked past the Taoyuan Police Dorms hundreds of times during my first year in Taiwan, I didn’t really know what kind of treasure was hidden behind the gates to the community, so I never had a chance to enjoy them in their original condition.

Fast forward more than a decade and the historic dorms, like their counterparts here in Zhongli, have been completely restored and re-opened as a culture park for all to enjoy!

I’m still a bit sour about it all though. I could have been exploring these dorms a long time ago! 

Today, the Taoyuan Police Dorms have been given a fresh look on life and have become one of downtown Taoyuan’s most important tourist attractions, especially with young people who are able to enjoy the beautiful park in any number of ways!

As always, before I talk about the culture park, let me first introduce a little bit about the history of the dorms and the area where they’re located! 

Taoyuan Police Dormitories (桃園警察局日式宿舍群)

Having recently celebrated their centennial, the Japanese-era Taoyuan Police Dormitories have been brought back to life by the Taoyuan City Government as a newly re-opened cultural park. 

Dating back to 1920 (大正9年), the dorms were constructed in the same year that Taoyuan’s administrative status was officially upgraded into a “town” (街). Known back then as Tōengai (桃園街 / とうえんがい), the town was the largest settlements within Shinchiku Prefecture’s (新竹州 /しんちくしゅう) Tōen District (桃園郡/とうえんぐん) which encompassed much of what we know today as Luzhu (蘆竹區), Dayuan (大園區), Guishan (龜山區) and Bade (八德區).

As the largest ‘town’ in the district, Tōengai was an economically prosperous area and was responsible for almost seventy percent of Taiwan’s tea production at the time, and was also one of the major competitors to Yingge (鶯歌), for the production of ceramics and pottery.  

Link: The Daxi That Japan Left Behind (日本留下的大溪)

Developing outward from the Taoyuan Railway Station, “Tōengai,” or the area we know today as downtown Taoyuan, was home to a considerable amount of administrative and economic infrastructure near where the dorms are located. Within the area between the dorms and the railway station you would have found the District Assembly Hall (桃園郡役所), Town Assembly Hall (桃園街役場), Post Office (桃園郵便局), Taiwan Bank (臺灣銀行), Police Station (桃園郡警察課), Public Schools (公學校), and a Martial Arts Hall (桃園武德殿), among others. 

Links: Daxi Martial Arts Hall (大溪武德殿) | Longtan Martial Arts Hall (龍潭武德殿)

Knowing what I do about the Japanese administration of the time, this tells me that the Taoyuan Police Dorms most certainly wouldn’t have been the only civil servant dormitories constructed in the area. There would have also been several clusters of civil servant, teachers and martial arts dorms nearby. 

Unfortunately many of the buildings mentioned above have already been torn down and with them the dorms that would have housed their employees (for the most part) have gone with them. This means that the police dorms are currently one of the only remaining clusters of Japanese-era dorms from that era of Taoyuan’s history.

Historic records about the dorms are hit and miss, but what we do know is that after the colonial era ended they consisted of #5, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 and 22 on Lane 77 of Zhongzheng Road (中正路77巷). 

If you’re counting that’s ten, which if you divide by two means there were originally five dorms. 

Today however, there are only four remaining, meaning that one of them was probably damaged beyond repair and either collapsed or was torn down long before restoration. 

If we take into consideration that there are currently four “Family-style Shared Dormitories,” and one large open space where the current ‘Prayer Pavilion’ and Public Washrooms are located, its fairly obvious where the dorm was originally located.

Now more than a century old, the four dorms that continue to exist at the park have been completely restored and re-opened as a culture park. 

From 1920 - 1945, the dorms were occupied by members of the police force who were working at the Taoyuan Police Station (桃園郡警察課), and included space for their families.

When the Second World War ended and the Japanese left Taiwan, the dorms continued to be occupied by members of the police force, but this time it was members of the Republic of China Police. 

That being said, as was the case with many of these Japanese-era buildings, as they aged and people moved out, they were abandoned, fell into a state of disrepair, and eventually became an eyesore within the downtown core of Taoyuan.

As mentioned above, when it comes to the design of the dorms, unlike other culture parks where Japanese-era dorms have been restored, there isn’t much of a variation in their design. The four dorms remaining today are all split in half, comparable to a duplex back in North America.

The official name for buildings like this is ‘Family-Style Shared Dorms’, but literally translates as Two-sided-Two-Household Dorm (雙併二戶建宿舍) in Chinese. 

As is the case with these style of dorms, they were always split in half and two families shared the building. When the colonial era ended, this didn’t always remain the case as the buildings were slightly altered in their interior design with people tearing down some of the walls to make for more space, especially those with larger families.

Its important to note that these Japanese-style dormitories follow a basic design rule in that each of them, no matter if they’re a single or a shared dwelling, must consist of the following three spaces: A living space (起居空間), a service space (服務空間) and a passage space (通行空間). 

The “living space” is considerably different than what we’re used to in western standards as what we might consider a “living room” is actually a brilliant multi-functional space where the residents could receive guests, hang out, have their meals, drink tea and sleep.

This space is usually the largest part of these dorms and features tokonoma (床の間/とこのま) or large compartments (like a closet) with sliding doors in the walls where blankets, decorations and other necessities are stored during the day.

Link: Tokonoma (Wiki) 

The “service space” on the other hand could include a number of rooms, which in the double family dorms might be shared spaces between both sides in order to save space. Service spaces typically include the kitchen (台所 / だいどころ), bathroom (風呂 / ふろ), washroom (便所 / べんじょ), etc. 

Finally, the “passage space” in each of these dorms varies, but generally means the front and back entrances to the dorm as well as the corridors within, between the living space and the service space.

Each of the dorms have been constructed using the irimoya-zukuri (入母屋造) style of design, which basically means that the base of the building is smaller than the roof, the weight of which is supported by a network of trusses (屋架) in the ceiling that helps to support the weight of the four-sided sloped hip roof (四坡頂). 

The roof that you’ll find on these buildings however don’t eclipse the size of the building in the same way that the elaborate roofs on shrines and temples do. One final thing to take note of with the roofs of the dorms is that when they were restored, the original tiles were replaced with plastic-looking black tiles, helping to keep cost down.  

Similarly, the wooden shitamiita (下見版 / したみいた) siding on the buildings has been completely replaced. The siding is still too new and is quite dark in colour, but as they age the colours will fade and they’ll look more like what you’d expect from a Japanese building of this kind.

Finally, one of the most significant design features of these buildings, and (as far as I’m concerned) are the stands-outs for me at this culture park are the beautiful ‘engawa’ (緣側/えんがわ) sliding door verandas on the buildings. 

Located at the rear side of each of the dorms, the sliding doors allow for natural air to enter the buildings, while also offering access to the areas where the gardens (and outhouses) would have been located. 

Link: Engawa (Wiki) 

Unfortunately some of them are covered up with curtains at certain times of the day which takes away from their beauty. They are nevertheless one of the most architecturally significant aspects of the dorms that remain today.

Now let’s talk about the the culture park! 

Taoyuan 77 Art Zone (桃園77藝文町)

In an attempt to attract interest to the newly restored culture park, the Taoyuan City Government’s Department of Cultural Affairs held a naming contest for the park in late 2017, prior to its official re-opening. 

After careful consideration of all of the submissions, they eventually went with Taoyuan 77 Artzone (桃園77藝文町), which probably sounds a bit strange to most English speakers. 

In Chinese however, the name does hold special meaning as I’ll break down below: 

  1. “桃園” (Taoyuan) - This one should be obvious!

  2. “77” - The number referring to the lane where the dorms are located.

  3. “藝文” - (Art) a common word used to refer to these cultural parks (藝文區).

  4. “町” - (block) a word that is predominately used in Japanese (町/まち) to describe a ‘block’ or ‘neighbourhood’ with the best famous example being Taipei’s “Ximending” (西門町).

Considering Taoyuan has an area that we already refer to as the “Taoyuan Art District” (桃園藝文區), in order to save some confusion, instead of making use of the word “area” (區), they went with a character that is more commonly used in Japan, which in turn helps to identify that the culture park has Japanese-era buildings. 

When the park officially opened to the public in 2018, it quickly became a pretty popular location in downtown Taoyuan as it featured a coffee shop, a couple of restaurants and outside seating for anyone working in the area and wanting to enjoy their lunch outside.

As a culture park, the space is used in a variety of ways that includes reserving space to educate people on the history of the dorms in addition to offering space for local musicians and artists to perform.

It also provides space for weekend markets and food stalls where people can come and enjoy local culture.

As I outlined in a previous post, there is an aspect to this park that helps to ensure that traffic is constantly being driven through the doors. The dorms that have been restored and re-opened to the public have space reserved for historic purpose, but a couple of them have been reserved as space for private businesses to set up shop. 

The Taoyuan City Government registered the dormitories as Protected Historic Buildings (歷史建築) in August of 2013 (民國102年), and shortly thereafter plans were made to restore the buildings and open them up to the public. From their designation as historic properties to the completion of the restoration project, the cultural affairs bureau had an ample amount of time to come up with ideas with regard to the best usage of these spaces. With so much investment in the opening of ‘culture parks’ around Taoyuan though, it is understandable that the government had trouble coming up with ideas on how to fill the space properly.

Link: Longtan Teachers Dorms (龍潭國小老師宿舍)

So, in a case similar to the historic police and teachers dorms in neighbouring Zhongli, the government made use of existing ‘operate transfer’ laws to seek out the participation of the private sector by opening up bids that would make the space available for the short-term rental of the dorms for private purposes. 

These public-private participation partnerships are something that you’ll find is taking place all over Taiwan and has become quite instrumental when it comes to the preservation of historic properties.

Come True Coffee

If you’d like to learn more about how these partnerships are used to help conserve historic buildings in Taiwan, check out the link below: 

Link: The Role Of Public-Private Partnerships In Conserving Historic Buildings In Taiwan

Taking into consideration that most of these partnerships expire after a term of five years, as I’m writing this article, some of the businesses that have opened up shop within the park have already reached the halfway point of their rental agreement. I can’t speak as to whether any of them will renegotiate their rental agreements when their contracts are up, so I won’t talk too much about what you’ll find inside, but I’ll give them a quick mention. 

  1. ComeTrue Coffee (成真咖啡)

  2. Seafood Club Japanese Cuisine (魚鮮會社)

  3. 77 Craft Studio + Gift Shop (手作創意體驗坊/小賣文創商店)

I suppose the standout of the bunch is ComeTrue Coffee, which is a pretty popular spot with tourists and locals alike. There’s something about being able to sit in one of these beautiful buildings and enjoying coffee, tea and dessert that attracts a lot of people. 

If you’d like to go, I recommend calling ahead to make a reservation or getting your name on the waiting list as soon as you show up at the park. Getting a seat can be a little difficult! 

Given that the park is home to four dormitories and three of them are occupied by private businesses, the one you’ll want to pay attention to if you’re interested in learning about history is the largest of them, named the “Six Arts Exhibition Space” (六藝展覽坊).  

There are three exhibition spaces within with one of the spaces acting as permanent exhibition about the history of the dorms with original pieces of the buildings that have been preserved in addition to other interesting historic information about the buildings and the development of Taoyuan during the colonial era. 

There is a strange, yet somewhat practical addition to the park in the form of a pavilion known as the “Make a Wish Pavilion” (祈福亭), where you’ll find traditional Japanese wooden ema (絵馬) fastened to the back. The strange thing about this is that in Japan, these wooden ema plaques are typically only found at Buddhist temples or Shinto Shrines. 

In Japan, prayers and wishes are written on the wooden plaques and are then left hanging up at the shrine where the spirits or gods can see them. 

Link: Ema (Shinto) 

The obvious question one might have if you’re familiar with these things is why you’ll find ema hanging at this culture park. I guess the best way to explain this is that here in Taiwan, these wooden plaques are often easily identifiable as “Japanese” culturally-speaking. So, when you travel around Taiwan and you encounter something Japanese, you’ll sometimes find that space is offered for hanging these plaques.

Practically speaking, the pavilion is functional in that it cleverly hides the public washrooms that have been constructed to its rear. In this way you have an attractive pavilion, which is pretty much Instagram gold and also obscures an addition to the park that would take away from the ambiance, if it weren’t there.

One of the great things about this little park is that you can enjoy the beauty of the four dorms while also learning about their history, enjoying some coffee, making crafts or attending the various activities and events that they have planned. There’s always something to do when you visit, which should make you want to stop by whenever you’re in the area to see what’s going on!

Getting There

 

Address: #5, Lane 77 Zhongzheng Road, Taoyuan District (桃園市桃園區中正路77巷5號)

GPS: 24.991770 121.311750

The Taoyuan Police Dorms, otherwise known as the Taoyuan 77 Art Zone is located within the downtown core of Taoyuan District and is a short walk away from the Taoyuan Railway Station. With that in mind, if you plan on visiting and you’re coming from outside of Taoyuan, I highly recommend just taking the train and walking. 

Train

If you take a train to Taoyuan Railway Station (桃園火車站), it doesn’t matter if you’re coming from the north or the south, you can hop on any of Taiwan’s trains, express or not and they’ll all stop at the station.

From the front of the station (前站), you’ll simply walk down Zhongzheng Road passing by the Tonlin Department Store (統領百貨) and turning left down Lane 77 (中正路77巷), which is located just past the large Land Bank of Taiwan (台灣土地銀行桃園分行). Lane 77, which is pretty much the namesake for the culture park is a narrow one, but don’t worry too much,  you’ll find the entrance to the park quite quickly.  

Car/Scooter

If you are driving a car or a scooter, getting to the dorms should be pretty easy, but parking on the other hand is completely different story. Simply input the address into your GPS or Google Maps and you’ll find yourself at the front entrance to the park in no time. 

If you’re driving a car, you’re going to have to look around to find some parking and even if you’re lucky enough to find a spot on the street, you’re still going to have to pay. There are a number of parking lots in the area, but getting a spot tends to be quite competitive, especially on weekends, so you may find yourself waiting in line for quite a while to get a spot. 

Nearby Parking lots

  1. 文昌公園 公有地下停車場 (40NT/hour)

  2. 新民機械立體停車場 (30NT/hour)

  3. 大林路停車場 (50-60NT)

  4. 嘟嘟房 (40NT/hour)

  5. Times平面停車場 (70-100NT/hour)

Similarly, there is an ample amount of parking spaces on the street available for scooters near the park.

That being said, they’re usually full most of the time and you might have to circle around for quite a while before you find a spot. If you are driving a scooter, you need to make sure you don’t park illegally as the authorities in downtown Taoyuan are quick to issue fines or have the tow truck come to take your scooter away.   

While you’re in the area, I highly recommend checking out the nearby Jingfu Temple (景福宮), which is known locally as Taoyuan’s Big Temple (桃園大廟) and the newly opened Japanese-era Taoyuan Kendo Museum (桃園劍道故事館) next door. Likewise you could also check out the Taoyuan Night market (桃園夜市) or hop on a bus or Youbike and head over the Tiger Head Mountain (虎頭山) to check out the Taoyuan Confucius Temple (桃園孔廟) or the Taoyuan Shinto Shrine (桃園神社), all of which are within walking distance from the railway station. 

The ‘Taoyuan 77 Artzone’ can be a pretty busy spot and the coffee shop within is usually packed with visitors, so if you’re planning a visit on the weekend, remember to head over a bit early so that you can better enjoy the beautiful little park within the busy city. 

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday from 11:00am - 9:00pm (Closed on Mondays and National Holidays)

Website: Taoyuan 77 Art Zone (桃園77藝文町) 

ComeTrue Coffee (成真咖啡): Monday - Friday from 10:00 - 9:00 (Weekends: 9:30 - 9:00)

References

  1. 桃園77藝文町 (桃園觀光導覽網)

  2. 桃園警察局日式宿舍群 (桃園市政府文化局)

  3. 桃園77藝文町 (Wiki)

  4. 桃園77藝文町。桃園警察局日式宿舍群歷史建築。重修後活化為文創園區 (1817BOX)

  5. 桃園警察局日式宿舍群 (文化局)