Travel

Kishu An (紀州庵文學森林)

When we were still living in a world where we were able to travel freely, Taiwan and Japan shared a pretty amazing two-way relationship with a very high percentage of tourists from each nation visiting the other. For the tourists of both nations, a flight to either Japan or Taiwan is a short one, but upon arrival there’s this familiar feeling that you find yourself among friends, which is a pretty great way to travel. 

Given the size difference between the two nations, there is obviously a lot more for Taiwanese tourists to do when visiting Japan, but for the Japanese tourists visiting Taiwan, there’s a high level of respect for Taiwan’s natural beauty, traditional culture, cuisine and the many similarities that the two nations share.

That being said, Taiwan’s amazing food scene has always been overshadowed by its eastern neighbor as Japanese cuisine is one of the stand outs on the map of the world’s best cuisines. Interestingly though, when Japanese tourists travel to Taiwan they have a bit of a secret that they don’t really share with others.

They’re often happiest when they’re eating Japanese food.

Taiwan is quite unique as it is one of the few places in the world where you’re able to find Japanese food that is just as good as (or better than) what you’ll find in Japan. One of the key differences is the price difference between the two countries.

You can literally eat like a king in Taiwan, for much less compared to prices back in Japan - So if you’re looking for teppanyaki, yakiniku, yakitori, shabu shabu, ramen, tempura or sushi, you’ll discover that you have some pretty amazing options, no matter where you are in Taiwan. 

For most Japanese tourists the secret to Japanese dining in Taiwan is all about the omakase-style (お任せ) dining and the fresh sushi. Not only are these experiences considerably cheaper here in Taiwan, it’s also exceptionally well-made and a high percentage of Taiwan’s Michelin-rated restaurants are sushi places, such as Sushi Amamoto (鮨天本), Kitcho (吉兆割烹壽司), Sushi Nomura (鮨野村), Sushi Akira (明壽司), etc. 

Link List of Michelin starred restaurants in Taipei (Wiki)

This set-menu and intimate style of dining has become extremely popular over the past decade and as these restaurants continue to achieve international notoriety, reservations have become much more exclusive. However, what we consider an ‘expensive’ dining experience here in Taiwan is still by comparison quite affordable for Japanese diners. 

As an outsider, I’ve always found it interesting watching friends here in Taiwan planning their trips with a primary focus on where they’ll eat and drink, while my Japanese friends have essentially spent the same amount of time doing the exact same thing before coming to Taiwan.

Given the historic links between the two nations, I suppose it shouldn’t be much of a surprise - There is obviously a reason why Japanese food is so good here in Taiwan, and much of that is owed to the fifty year period of Japan’s colonial control of the island.

As I’m sure most of you have already noticed, I’ve spent a considerable amount of time over the past few years visiting and researching buildings that date back to the Japanese era, ranging from civic buildings, Martial Arts Halls, Buddhist Temples, Shinto Shrines, train stations, etc.

When it comes these historic buildings, one area where we are sadly lacking these days are the restaurants that helped to ignite the Taiwanese love affair with Japanese cuisine. Unfortunately, it’s quite rare that any of the historic restaurants constructed during the Japanese-era have lasted this long, and it’s even rarer to see them recognized as a cultural heritage building.

A few years back I introduced the beautiful Hsinchu Lakeside Ryotei (湖畔料亭), a beautiful Japanese-era restaurant located within what we know today as Hsinchu Park (新竹公園). This time, I’ll be following up with another historic riverside restaurant in Taipei, which has recently become of the city’s most popular Instagram locations in recent months. 

Known today as the ‘Kishu-An Forest of Literature’, the former riverside restaurant was once one of Taipei’s most popular restaurants, and similar to those Michelin starred set-menu dining restaurants popular in the city today, was one of the most hottest tickets in town.  

Kishu-an Ryotei (紀州庵料亭 / きしゅうあんりょうてい)

When the Japanese took control of Taiwan in 1895 (明治28年), most of the island had yet to really be developed in any meaningful way. Yet, with a rudimentary railroad set up between Keelung in Hsinchu by the previous regime, Taiwan’s new rulers worked quickly to ensure an efficient and smoother take over.

Within the first decade of Japanese rule, an almost unimaginable amount of development took place around the island with roads, railways and the construction of public works and administrative buildings sprouting up and helping to form the basis of the major cities that we know and love today.

The first few years of Japanese colonial control however were considered the harshest as the military cross-crossed the island pacifying areas that had never been under any centralized authority, and in the process putting down any opposition to their rule.

With plans to continue developing the island, the colonial government started promoting immigration and by 1897 (明治30年) they had already set up financial incentives for Japanese citizens to emigrate to the island to help contribute to its development, set up businesses and assist in the ‘Japanization’ of the island.

One of those families was the Hiramatsu family (平松) from Japan’s Wakayama Prefecture (和歌山縣), just south of Osaka on the eastern coast of the country.

In 1897, Tokumatsu Hiramatsu (平松德松) opened a restaurant in the Seimonchō (西門町 / せいもんちょう) of the capital of Taihoku. Located directly opposite the Hokkeji Temple (法華寺 / ほっけじ), the restaurant was named after Wakayama’s feudal name, ‘Kishu’ (紀州藩 / きしゅうはん) with the Character “庵“ (あん) replacing “藩” (はん), a play on words that changed the pronunciation of “Kishu-han” (the name of the feudal domain) to “Kishu-an” (literally: Kishu retreat). 

As the number of the Japanese citizens immigrating to Taiwan grew, Hiramatsu’s business continued to boom, so in 1917, the family opened a branch in the growing Kawabatacho district (川端町 / かわばたちょう), along the banks of the Xindian River (新店溪). Known for its beautiful riverside and as well as for the chrysanthemums that grew there, the area had become a popular one with the Japanese residents of the city as it became home to hip tea houses and a number of ryotei (料亭), including the famed Kawayashiki (川屋敷 / かわやしき), Shinchaya (新茶屋 / しんちゃや) and Seiryotei (清涼亭 / せいりょうてい) restaurants. 

Note: Original address for the restaurant was Kawabatacho #448 (川瑞町448番地)

The term “ryotei” (料亭 / りょうてい), which literally translates as “food pavilion” is a traditional and somewhat exclusive style of Japanese dining. In the past, ryotei weren’t open to the public in the way that most restaurants are, and new customers more or less had to be referred or introduced in order to be able to visit.  Known for their exclusivity and high class style of dining, they’re often used for important business or political meetings held in private rooms. 

Most often employing the ‘kaiseki’ (懐石料理 / かいせき) style of dining, a meal at a restaurant like this would have been a multi-course experience that employed a number of cooking techniques. Known more simply these days as a set menu (セット), a meal at Kishu-an would have consisted of an elaborate fifteen course menu served by Geisha, who would also provide entertainment. 

Link: Ryotei (Japanese style restaurant)

Similar to the Michelin-rated omakase restaurants (おまかせ) in Taipei today, reservations for a Kishu-an, or any of the other ryotei mentioned above, would have been hard to come by, and a meal there would have been an expensive experience reserved only for special occasions. 

Initially, the river branch of Kishu-an was a traditionally designed Japanese style building, but as business thrived, plans for an elaborate expansion were made in order to compete with the other ryotei nearby.

In 1927 (昭和2年), construction on a three-floor building was started that once completed would allow guests to overlook the river next to a traditional Japanese garden (日式庭園).

Completed the following year, the meticulously constructed building made use of the banyan trees (榕樹) that were felled to make way for the expansion.

Once completed, Kishu-an consisted of the main three-floor building (本館), an annex (離屋), and a garden in addition to riverside facilities for guests to make the most of their experience which included river boats, fishing, and other activities to enjoy nature.

Said to be comparable to the riverside dining experience back in Kyoto (京都), residents of Taihoku relished the opportunity to visit the riverside to enjoy the chrysanthemums during the day and fireflies at night almost as much as the residents of Taipei today enjoy riding along the beautiful bicycling path.

One is left to wonder what happened to both the flowers and the fireflies?

Business continued to thrive at Kishu-an for the next decade, but when war broke out in the Pacific and Taiwan was targeted by allied bombing campaigns, the Governor General’s office issued emergency directives that restricted ‘entertainment’ venues in order to help maintain public safety as well as to mobilize infrastructure to care for anyone injured during an attack.

With business operations shut down, Kishu-an was for a time used by the Japanese army as a temporary medical facility as it was close enough to the Southern Taipei Airport (臺北南飛行場) that it could easily tend to anyone wounded by an attack. 

Link: Nanjichang Community (南機場社區)

If it weren’t already fairly obvious, the war didn’t really end in Japan’s favor, so when the empire was forced to relinquish its control over Taiwan, the Hiramatsu family, like so many others who had lived in Taiwan for the better part of half a century, were forced to get on a boat and were repatriated back to their homeland. 

In the aftermath of the war, Kishu-an was appropriated by the Taiwan Provincial Cooperative Business Administration Office (台灣省合作事業管理處宿舍), which used it for employee housing.

In 1945, an eight year old Wang Wen-hsing (王文興) would take up residence within the building with his family, who lived there for the next three decades.

When the Chinese Nationalists retreated to Taiwan in 1949, bringing with them several million Chinese refugees, the island experienced a period of crisis with regard to housing as the refugees became squatters in any space that provided a roof over their heads. Kishu-an became one of those safe havens, and famed author Wang Wen-hsing commented that by the time he and his family vacated their residence in the late 1970s, more than two-hundred families had taken up residence within the building. 

The natural beauty of the riverside that the residents of Kawabatacho district (currently Zhongzheng District 中正區) enjoyed came to an abrupt end in the 1970s when the government constructed the Huanhe North-South Expressway (環河南北快速道路) parallel to the river. 

On the list of Taipei’s most important infrastructure projects in recent memory, construction of the expressway was one that had almost unanimous support among the residents of the city, frustrated with constant traffic congestion, which at the time still had to contend with above ground trains making their way through the city.

Once completed, the five-kilometer elevated expressway alleviated some of the city’s issues, but created a barrier between the riverside and the recreation area that was once a popular riverside tourist attraction.

Then, in 1994, disaster stuck when a fire broke out late in the afternoon on May 6th, killing one of the residents and resulting in the destruction of the main building. In the aftermath of the fire, residents were forced to find alternative accommodations and only those who lived in the annex building remained.

The state of the building, and the swampy grounds caused a headache for the city government over the next few years with plans drawn up to have the whole thing torn down and turned into a parking lot. 

A breeding ground for mosquitos, and fears of a possible dengue fever outbreak in the area, the city government was keen on evicting the remaining residents as quickly as possible and having what little remained of Kishu-an leveled. Fortunately, civic groups took action and after years of back and forth negotiations, the government capitulated and officially recognized the former restaurant as a protected heritage building (臺北市定古蹟). With official protection, the government was then tasked with coming up with a plan for its restoration, requiring a certain amount of public funds being allocated for the project. 

Several teams of researchers visited the site and after consultations, they reported that it would take an estimated twenty-four million dollars (One million USD) to complete a reconstruction and restoration project.

The reconstruction of the original building however became an issue as there weren’t enough photos, or blueprints that’d allow them to faithfully complete a replication of the original.

After several years of research, as well as negotiations with the residents of the building, a financial package was agreed on for the relocation of the residents as well as for the restoration of the annex building, with plans to reconstruct the main building abandoned.  

Starting in 2013, the restoration project was completed within a year and Kishu-an reopened to the public as the Kishu-an Forest of Literature (紀州庵文學森林), a culture park dedicated to promoting the nation’s literary history. The restoration project was so thoughtfully undertaken that they were able to retain over seventy percent of the original materials dating back more than a century.

With the annex building restored and a beautiful green park to go with it, the city government constructed a cultural centre on the grounds. Featuring a tea-house, library and space for public lectures, exhibitions and art space, the newly constructed building is where the vast majority of the culture park’s events take place, while the historic annex building allows visitors to enjoy the beauty of the historic restaurant. 

To celebrate the re-opening of Kishu-an, Ki­ichiro Hi­ra­ma­tsu (平松喜一郎), the Taiwan-born son of To­ku­ma­tsu Hi­ra­ma­tsu was invited to return to Taiwan to see home of his youth brought back to life in a modern Taiwan. 

Before introducing the architectural design of the annex building, I’ll provide a timeline of events at Kishu-an over the past 120 years: 

Kishu-an Timeline

  • 1897 (明治30年) - The Hiramatsu (平松) family from Wakayama Prefecture (和歌山縣 / わかやまけん) immigrates to Taiwan and opens ‘Kishu-an’ in Ximending (西門町 / せいもんちょう).

  • 1917 (大正7年)- The Hiramatsu family expands with a branch of Kishu-an along the banks of the Xindian River in Taihoku’s Kawabatacho district (川端町 / かわばたちょう).

  • 1927 (昭和2年) - Construction on a three-story expansion of the restaurant starts.

  • 1940 (昭和15年) - The original Kishu-an in Ximending closes and the business is primarily focused on the riverside branch.

  • 1943-1944 - Business operations are shut down due to the ongoing war and the restaurant is used to assist the injured given the close proximity to Taihoku’s Southern Airport (臺北南飛行場).

  • 1945 (昭和20年) - The buildings become dormitories for the Taiwan Provincial Cooperative Business Administration Office (台灣省合作事業管理處宿舍). One of the residents of the building is eight year old Wang Wen-hsing (王文興).

  • 1949 (民國38年) - The Chinese Nationalist Government relocates to Taiwan and Kishu-an becomes housing for a dozen families.

  • 1978 (民國67年) - Wang Wen-hsing now in his thirties moves out of Kishu-an and remarks that by then more than two hundred families had lived in the building.

  • 1994 (民國83年) - In the late afternoon on May 6th, a fire breaks out in the main building of Kishu-an destroying most of the building and killing a 31 year old disabled man.

  • 2003 (民國92年) - With plans to demolish what little remained of Kishu-an, a group of civic activists came to the rescue of the historic building and started a campaign to lobby the government to restore the building.

  • 2003 (民國92年) - On November 21st, the Taipei City government officially designates Kishu-an as a protected historic site.

  • 2011 (民國100年) - The last residents of Kishu-an move out after a relocation package is approved by the government.

  • 2013 (民國102年) - Restoration on the remaining annex building starts.

  • 2014 (民國103年) - On May 24th, the Kishu-an Forest of Literature officially opens.

Architectural Design

Given the beauty of Kishu-an, and its popularity as a tourist attraction, you’d be excused for assuming that it should be relatively easy to find detailed information regarding its architectural design. Unfortunately that’s not really the case - Save for some very detailed descriptions of the history of the building, you’ll discover that there is actually very little information about its elaborate design.

Never fear, I’ve got you covered. 

As mentioned above, Kishu-an originally consisted of a main three-floor building (本館) with an annex (離屋) connected via a passage-way between the two buildings. Located just outside the annex you would have found a beautiful Japanese-style garden with another annex building (別館) on other side.

Unfortunately both the main building and the detached annex building were destroyed by fire in the 1990s, leaving only one of the original three structures standing today.

The annex building that remains standing was historically the area of the restaurant reserved for much larger banquets or receptions, with a capacity for just over ninety guests. The rectangular-shaped building is quite long and is separated into five rooms through a network of sliding doors.

If you were looking at the building from the top down, essentially what you’d see are two rectangular shaped sections, the outer ’hisashi’ (廂 / ひさし) and the central area, known as the ‘omoya’ (主屋 / おもや).

But what does any of that actually mean?  

The central section of the building is known as the “omoya” (主屋), and it officially consists of a total interior space of sixty tatami mats (疊榻榻 / たたみ). If the sliding doors were closed into five separate rooms, each of the rooms would have been an equal twelve mats in size.

Note: 1.0 tatami (畳) = 1.5㎡ = 16.5ft² = 0.45375 Taiwanese ping (坪) 

In metric terms, what this means is that the interior space of the central room is 100㎡, with each room divided evenly into 20㎡ in size. That being said, the network of sliding doors was set up in a way that made it easy to arrange for larger rooms to accommodate for larger banquets. 

Surrounding the omoya on all four sides of the building, you’ll find traditional corridors or passageways known in Japan as ‘hisashi’. In this case however the corridors appear a bit different on each side - The front side of the building features the main entrance, and for the most part is one of the more ‘solid’ sections save for a relatively small sliding glass door ‘engawa’ (縁側 /えんがわ) veranda that would have overlooked a garden at the front.

To the direct left of the main entrance on the east side of the building you would have found the guest washrooms in addition to what was likely a room reserved for staff at the restaurant. The opposite western end on the other hand would have been where you would have found the corridor that connected the annex to the main building. Today a section of that corridor still exists and is an excellent reading space!

The southern side of the building is where the architectural design of Kishu-an really stands out as the entire side is one giant sliding glass-door veranda like the one mentioned above that stretches from one end of the building to the other. During the Japanese-era this section of the building would have overlooked the Japanese garden, and allowed guests to leave the building and enjoy the beauty of the grounds and the nearby river. Historic photos show that this section was just as beautiful a century ago as it is today, save for the fact that all of the trees and greenery planted by the Hiramatsu’s have grown into a beautiful natural space. 

In terms of the architectural style of the building, it was constructed with a combination of styles with the base, exterior and roof of the building following the irimoya-zukuri syle (入母屋造 / いりもやづくり), one of the most common of Japanese architectural designs. The interior of the building however follows a rather unique style of design among the remaining Japanese-era buildings in Taiwan today. 

Making use of Shoin-zukuri (書院造建築 / しょいんづくり), a style of architectural design that is typically reserved for mansions, temple guest halls, etc. Over the years, this simple zen-like style of interior design became informally incorporated into teahouses as elegant spaces for formal banquets or dinners. So it only made sense that ryotei like Kishu-an would follow suit.

Link: Shoin-zukuri (Wiki) 

Literally referred to as the ‘study hall’ (書院造) style of design, a building designed in this style is characterized by wall-to-wall tatami mats with sliding doors acting as the walls between the room and the outside corridors. Within the room you’d also find square beveled pillars and ‘shouji’ (障子 / しょうじ) sliding doors, allowing the space to be divided into various sections based on necessity.

Given the elegant nature of the building, the sliding shouji doors were constructed with beautiful displays of latticework within the wooden frames that were not only beautiful, but also functional in that they allowed for fresh air to travel from outside into the rooms. 

Completing the shoin-zukuri style you’ll find a tokonoma (床之間 / とこのま) alcove at the far end of the building, which would have been used to display ‘okimono’ (置物 / おきもの) or art, ornaments, flowers, etc.

Above the alcove today you’ll find a beautiful calligraphy painting with the words ‘Kishu-an’ (紀州庵).

Looking at the interior of the building, you might wonder how it’s possible that the whole thing doesn’t just implode from the weight of the roof but this is part of the genius of the open design of a shoin-zukuri style building. What you’ll want to take note of while in the main room are the large pillars pillars on each side of the dividers. These pillars help to form a network that stabilizes the entire structure with the help of trusses within the ceiling that connect directly to the pillars. Working together with the cement base, and pillars on the exterior of the building that allow the building to remain elevated above the ground, the entire system is exceptionally stable which has allowed it to remain standing for well over a century of wear and tear.  

Adding to the structural stability of the building, builders made use of ‘bamboo mud walls’ (編竹夾泥牆) to reinforce and insulate the building. This construction method was similar to what was used back in Japan, but considering how bamboo was both cheap and abundant in Taiwan, the style was modified to form a lattice, which turns out to be quite reliable as a building material.

When you visit Kishu-an today you can see an area in the wall where they put the bamboo lattice on display in order to better understand how it was used. 

Link: Bamboo Mud Wall (Wiki)

Finally, as an ‘irimoya’ style building, the base of the building, known as the moya (母屋 / もや), is slightly smaller than the hip-and-gable roof that eclipses the base. In this case though, the roof isn’t as decorative as what you’d find on a Shinto Shrine or a Buddhist temple - It is essentially shaped like an ‘open book' or the Chinese character “入“ with a gable pediments on the ridge and a hipped roof on the lower parts. The roof is dual-layered with a lower section that ensures that rain water falls a safe distance from the verandas into drains near the base.

The Kishu An Forest of Literature (紀州庵文學森林)

The Kishu An Forest of Literature (紀州庵文學森林) is located within the recently restored annex, or the aptly named “New Building” (新館), which once connected directly to the main part of the restaurant prior to it burning to the ground. 

Part of a newly established culture park with a focus on Taiwan’s literary history, the historic building is used as a tourist attraction and an exhibition space in conjunction with the newly constructed library and tea house located next door. 

While not exactly related, the literature park goes hand-in-hand with the recently restored Japanese-era Qidong Street Dorms in central Taipei, known as the Taiwan Literature Base (臺灣文學基地) in that both culture parks celebrate Taiwan’s literary history, and aim to help cultivate future superstars. 

In this case, the Kishu-An Forest of Literature is operated by the Taiwan Association for Literature Development (台灣文學發展基金會), and is in a strategic area considered to be the cradle of the literary scene in the capital. Home to two universities and publishing houses located on Tong’an Street (同安街), Xiamen Street (廈門街) and Kinmen Street (金門街) as well as the Blue Star Club (藍星詩社) and the Chinese Literature and Arts Association (中國文藝協會), the neighborhood was a pretty hip place in post-war Taiwan.

Most notably however, famous novelist Wang Wen-hsing (王文興) was once one of the tenants of Kishu-An after the war, and scenes in his novel ‘Family Catastrophe’ (家變) are set within the building.

Located next to the historic annex, you’ll find a newly constructed library and tea house which celebrates the history of the building’s past by providing tea and set dinner menus and from what I’ve seen the food looks pretty good, despite being quite different than what would have appeared on plates in the restaurant almost a century ago. Feel free to check the (Chinese-language only) link below to see some of the food and tea offerings available at the tea house. 

Link: 紀州庵文學森林風格茶館 (Kishu-An Teahouse)

While visiting the annex building today you’ll be required to remove your shoes to gain access, but once inside you’ll be able to walk around and enjoy the beauty of this extravagant Japanese-era building.

Photography within the building is permitted, but tripods aren’t as they could damage the floor.

Likewise if you’re planning a professional shoot and want to bring a model or cosplayers, you’ll have to apply for a permit beforehand.

Link: 攝影申請 (Online Photography Permit Application)

Given that the interior of the building is home to an exhibition space, what you’ll experience within the main section is likely to change on a regular basis. The rest of the building however remains the same with a room reserved to tell the history of the restaurant with informative displays and historic photos. 

For a full experience, you’ll probably want to visit the historic building as well as the newly constructed library and the tea house, but to tell the truth, I only visited the historic section of the park to take photos of the building. Visiting during a time when COVID was spreading around the capital, I took a look inside the full library building and decided against going in to check it out.

If you visit, I hope you have a chance to visit at a time when the situation is a bit more stable. 

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday from 10:00-18:00 

(Closed on Mondays and National Holidays)

Official Website: 紀州庵文學森林 | Facebook 

Getting There

 

Address: (台北市中正區同安街115號及109巷4弄6號)

GPS: 25.024340, 121.522440

Getting to the Kishu-An Forest of Literature Park is pretty convenient given Taipei’s excellent public transportation network. Whether you’re taking a bus, subway or Youbike, you shouldn’t have any problems getting there. Likewise, with a car park located to the rear of the building, and scooter spaces outside the front entrance, if you’ve got your own wheels you shouldn’t have much trouble finding a space. 

If you’re in a car, I recommend you instead search for the Tong’An Street Parking Lot (同安街平面停車場) and mapping out your route from there. Parking is 20NT per hour, but spaces are pretty limited so you might have to wait a while, or find another option further away. 

Car / Scooter 

To get to the park, I highly recommend inputting the address or coordinates provided above into your GPS or Google Maps to map out your route. If you’re driving a scooter, you should easily find a parking space along Tong’an Street. If you’re driving a car however, I recommend trying to find a spot in the parking lot mentioned above, although spaces are limited.

Taipei MRT

Kishu-an is located closest to Guting Station (古亭捷運站) on the Green Line (松山新店線), and is about an eight-minute walk from the station (600 meters). To get there you’ll want to leave from Exit 2 (2號出口) and walk straight down Tong’an Road (同安路) until you arrive at the park. 

Bus

There are two bus stops located near Kishu-an that you’ll be able to make use of if you’re planning on taking public transportation to the area, both of which are located near schools on Dingzhou Road (汀州路). 

  1. Qiangshu High School Bus Stop (強恕中學站): Bus #253, 297, 673

  2. Heti Elementary School Bus Stop (河堤國小站): Bus #297. 671, 673

Both stops are located close to Tong’an Street and are a short walk away from Kishu-an.

Click the links on the bus numbers above for real time bus schedules. 

Youbike 

Conveniently located next to Kishu-An, you’ll find a Youbike Station to park a bike - The park is next to the Taipei Riverside Bikeway and is close to the Taipei City Hakka Cultural Park (台北市客家文化主題公園), so getting there should be quite easy no matter where you’re traveling from in Taipei.

Simply input the address or GPS coordinates located above into Google Maps and you’ll have your route mapped out for you. 

Once an upscale fine dining restaurant, it would be an understatement to say that the years haven’t been all that kind to Kishu-an. Its recent revival and restoration however have allowed this beautiful historic building to once again serve the people of Taipei as a tourist attraction and a hip location to learn a bit about the literary history of Taipei, and Taiwan. Let’s face it though, having become a hot Instagram photo location, the majority of visitors to Kishu-an these days mostly consists of young people coming to enjoy a bit of their city’s history, as well as to take photos in this beautiful building with its natural surroundings.

A visit to Kishu-an won’t take much time, and if you’re already riding through the city’s riverside park, I highly recommend stopping by.

Unfortunately, for foreign tourists, most of the literary events planned for Kishu-an aren’t as English-language friendly as those at the Qidong Street Dorms. I do recommend checking the Facebook page linked above before any visit, so you’ll have a better idea of what’s going on. 

References

  1. The Kishu An Forest of Literature | 紀州庵文學森林 (Travel Taipei)

  2. Kishu An Forest of Literature (Ministry of Culture)

  3. Witness to Riverside History—Kishu An | 城南新水岸紀事──紀州庵 (Taiwan Panorama)

  4. 紀州庵 (Wiki)

  5. 臺北市直轄市定古蹟列表 (Wiki)

  6. 紀州庵文學森林 (台北文化局)

  7. 紀州庵 (國家文化資產處)

  8. 台北市定古蹟紀州庵 (中央研究院科學研究中心地理資訊科學研究專題中心)

  9. 紀州庵文學森林作家私房菜 故事加人情調味,品嚐作家的款待 (微笑台灣)

  10. 和風水岸的悠閒—紀州庵料亭 (晰誌 | See Zine)

  11. 老屋的容顏|紀州庵:風光近半世紀高級料亭 (Bios Monthly)


Shanjia Train Station (山佳車站)

I’ve been criss-crossing the country over the past year in search of the sites related to the Japanese-era railway. As one the research projects I started this year, I’ve tried my best to visit as many of the historic railway factories, offices, dormitories, and historic stations as I could in order to document what many people believe to be one of the most important aspects of Taiwan’s modern development. Having authored close to a dozen articles this year, I’ve only covered a small percentage of what actually remains, so this is one of those projects that will continue for the foreseeable future.

The ironic thing is that while I’ve been traveling across the country in search of these historic buildings, the one that was actually the closest to me, a station that I must have passed by hundreds of times remained at the back of my long list of places to visit. Located just a few stops away from home, Shanjia Station in New Taipei’s Shulin District (樹林區) is one of those beautiful Japanese-era stations that has been recently restored and re-opened to the public as a cultural attraction, while the modern station to the rear continues service.

Every time I passed by the station on my way to Taipei, I’d say to myself “I should really stop by some day soon to get some photos” as I enjoyed the view of the station from the window of the train. It started to become a bit of a running joke that I would repeatedly say the same thing every time we passed by. 

I realize this probably isn’t a huge selling point for anyone thinking of visiting, but one of the main reasons why I never actually got off the train to check out the station is that there isn’t very much else to see in the area.

For reasons I’ll get into later, the station was historically an important one, but the area around it doesn’t really offer much for tourists looking for something to do, unless you’re riding a bike along the river.

Fortunately I found myself on beautiful Autumn day with some extra time, and since I was already in the area, I decided to finally make an effort to stop by to check out this beautiful little station. That being said, unlike some of the Japanese-era stations along the Coastal Railway (海岸線) that I’ve already introduced, this one is similar to the historic Qidu Railway Station (七堵車站) in that it has been completely restored and reopened to the public, while a newly constructed modern station has taken over with regard to passenger services. 

There are quite a few Japanese-era stations around the country that have been restored and continue to exist in conjunction with a modern station nearby - Shanjia Station however was the first to follow this model, so the others that we’ve seen reopening around the country as of late are simply following its excellent example.

As I move on below, I’ll introduce the history of this nearly 120 year old station, explain why it was so important for so long, and then go into detail about its architectural design, which is considerably different from many of the wooden Japanese-era stations that remain in Taiwan today. 

Shanjia Train Station (山佳車站 / さんかえき)

Dating back to the early years of the Japanese Colonial Era, the station we refer to today as Shanjia Station (山佳車站) was constructed in 1903 (明治36年) as Yamakogashi Station (山仔脚駅 / やまご あしえき) along the Jukan Tetsudo (ゅうかんてつどう ), otherwise known either as the ‘Taiwan Trunk Railway’ (縱貫鐵道), or the West Coast Railway.  

Within a few short years of Japanese control, railway stations started opening for service around the island thanks to the over four hundred kilometer railway constructed between Keelung and Kaohsiung. For the first time in the island’s history, population centers were connected to a modern form of transportation and Yamakogashi Station was one of them.

Over the years, the name of the station has changed on several occasions, but essentially it was named due to its proximity to the base of Datung Mountain (大棟山), a mountain that these days is split between Taoyuan and New Taipei City, and was important to the local community involved in the mining industry.

Interestingly, the name was changed once during the colonial era, but only with regard to the Kanji (Chinese Characters) in the name, and not the actual pronunciation of the station. Originally named “Yamakagashi” (Or Yamagoashi depending on your preferred romanization) with a “仔“ (zi/ zai), a commonly used character in Taiwanese/Hokkien (台語/閩南話), it was later renamed with the character “子” (zi), in a move that was likely made for the convenience of the technology at the time as the original character was less common in Japanese.

Like many of its contemporaries around Taiwan, Yamakagashi Station was originally constructed as a traditional wooden station house, but a few decades after its construction, it was torn down and replaced with the concrete building that we can see today. When you visit the station today you’ll find reference to it being a “century-old” (百年) station, but that’s not exactly true given that the building was we see today was constructed in the early years of the Showa era (昭和) when the usage of concrete was becoming more common around the island. Factually speaking, the beautiful station we can visit today is about ninety years old, but I suppose it sounds more impressive if you say it is almost 120 years old. 

For a small station, in what is even much smaller community, especially since the much larger Shulin Station (樹林車站) is located nearby, the number of passengers that pass through the station on a daily basis remains quite impressive. The numbers have gone up and down over the years, but an average of half a million passengers make use of the station on an annual basis, making it a relatively busy station. That being said, historically Yamakagashi Station was known more for the important freight that was loaded at the station than the number of passengers that passed through the turnstiles. 

Records from the Japanese era (1917 specifically) indicate that the area around the station accounted just around 300 households, or about 1700 people in total. The station today serves on average around 2000 passengers a day, but back then only around 5-6 people per day.

From this, I’m sure you can gather that the local community has grown quite a bit over the past century. 

As mentioned above, the lack of passengers getting on the train at the station didn’t really matter all that much given that it was the loading point for an estimated 25,000 metric tons of coal on an annual basis during the heyday of the mining industry. Similarly, the station was also a focal point for the loading of sand and gravel excavated from the nearby Dahan River in addition to locally farmed white rice. 

As one of Taihoku’s (current day ‘Greater Taipei’) six mining communities, Yamakagashi was the only one located on the western side of the Dahan River (大漢溪). The mining industry in the area flourished for quite some time, outlasting the Japanese-era, but at some point in the early 1980s, the area more or less dried up, and it became far too dangerous to continue mining, having a detrimental effect on the local community and the local economy. 

Today, many of the old coal mine shafts remain open and a few of them have been restored to allow visitors to go check them out. If you’re so inclined, a visit to the station could also include a hike up the mountain nearby to see some of the mining-related sites. If you’re interested in that, I highly recommend checking out the link below where fellow blogger Tom Rook made the effort on a miserable day to go check out the old shafts. 

Link: The Old Mining Village of Shanjia (Over The City)

A few years after the Japanese-era ended, the station was renamed Shanjia Station (山佳車站) and the community around the station grew and diversified around it. As the decades passed the number of passengers traveling through the station ultimately became far too many for the small station house to handle, so it was decided that a larger modern station would have to be constructed to better suit the needs of the local community.

Fortunately the Taiwan Railway Administration had the foresight not to knock the original station down to make way for the new one. So when the new iteration of the station, a gaudy structure devoid of any architectural style, opened to the public in 2011, it was made a bit more respectable by the fact that it had the original Japanese-era station in front. 

Before I get into the architectural design of the station, I’ll provide a bit of a timeline of events that took place at the station over the past century.

Timeline

  • 1903 (明治36年) - Yamakoashi Station (山仔脚駅) opens for service.

  • 1920 (大正9年) - The station is renamed Yamakoashi Station (山子脚駅), a slight variation on the original Kanji characters given that the character “仔” is rarely used in Japanese.

  • 1928 (昭和4年) - The original wooden station is demolished and construction on a new station begins.

  • 1931 (昭和6年) - The new (current) cement station is completed and is reopened for service.

  • 1962 (民國51年) - The station is renamed Shanjia Station (山佳車站).

  • 2008 (民國97年) - The station switches primarily to the EasyCard swiping system rather than issuing tickets.

  • 2009 (民國98年) - The original “S” shaped platform is demolished in order to allow express trains to pass through the station more easily.

  • 2011 (民國100年) - The new cross-platform elevated Shanjia Station is opened to the public while the original station is covered in canvas and plans are drawn up to have it restored.

  • 2014 (民國103年) - Typhoon Soudelor (強烈颱風蘇迪勒) causes a considerable amount of damage to the protective covering placed over the historic station. Afterwards, a new protective tent is installed to help preserve the station.

  • 2015 (民國104年) - The restoration project on the original station is started, making it the first of several Japanese-era stations that is set to exist side-by-side with a modern station.

  • 2017 (民國106年) - The restoration project on the station is completed and the historic Shanjia Station is reopened to the public with a railway culture park located along the platform, highlighting the history of the station and the mining activities that made it important. 

Architectural Design

The modern Shanjia Station side by side with the historic station

These days, when you walk into the historic Shanjia Station, one of the first things you’ll notice is a very large model of its 1903 predecessor on display in one of the rooms. The original station appears to be quite similar to many of the other small railway stations constructed around Taiwan, but it only ended up lasting about twenty years before it was replaced. 

The ‘newer’ historic station, which as mentioned above was completed in 1931 was constructed during a period of the Japanese-era that tends to stand out architecturally-speaking. Having taken control of Taiwan in 1895, the Japanese spent a considerable amount of time developing the island and its infrastructure. For the first couple of decades, many of the buildings constructed were somewhat rudimentary and were thought to be almost temporary as the idea was to first get everything running smoothly before refining things. 

By the time the Showa Emperor (昭和皇帝), more commonly known in the west as Emperor Hirohito, took control in 1926 (昭和元年), it was generally thought that the situation in Taiwan had stabilized to the point that the Governor General’s Office was given the go-ahead to start tearing down some of the older buildings and replacing them with newer ones. Similarly this was also when the Japanese architects of the era had started to combine modern construction techniques with traditional Japanese design resulting in an architectural fusion, replacing many of the older wooden buildings with those constructed with reinforced concrete.

Note: Obviously another important factor for some of these rebuilds was due to a number of natural disasters (earthquakes and typhoons) that devastated the island on several occasions over the first few decades of colonial rule.

 Official government sources claim that one of the first railway stations to receive such treatment was Yamakoashi Station, and that its construction was something that was to be emulated in other areas around the island. Unfortunately, there is little information available with regard to the architectural design of the station, so I can’t actually confirm whether or not those claims are true, but given the period that it was constructed, its quite possible.

Regardless, there are two things we should keep in mind here - the first being that it is somewhat of a tradition that whenever a new emperor takes control in Japan, it is common to see ambitious construction projects taking place with the new ruler wanting to solidify his legacy, over those that came before. Secondly, those buildings constructed in Taiwan during the early years of the Showa era tend to stand out more because they took a modern approach to construction in that they combined western techniques with Japanese design.

Note: It is important to take note that even though the early years of a new emperor’s reign are known for construction and infrastructure projects, the Showa era (1926-1989) started out suffering from the devastating effects of the Great Kanto Earthquake (関東大地震) of 1923, and a number of other economic factors resulting in the Shōwa Financial Crisis (昭和金融恐慌) of 1927. The Governor Generals Office in Taiwan at the time would have been responsible for fund raising for any construction project, but growing militarism back in Japan and the Second World War ensured that money for development projects was modest from the 1940s onward.

Preceding Emperor Showa, the Taisho Era (大正), from 1912 until 1926, was known for the way Japanese architects fused traditional design with Western architectural design, especially when it came to Art-Deco and the usage of reinforced concrete to build larger structures. Thus, the early years of the Showa era continued along that path with the preferred method of construction involving concrete rather wood. That being said, it was during this period that fervent Japanese nationalism was promoted throughout the empire, resulting in military campaigns throughout Asia.

Note: It was during this period that the strict Kominka (皇民化運動 / こうみんかせいさく), or mandatory ‘Japanization’ policies came into effect in Taiwan, which included the “National Language Movement” (国語運動) requiring citizens of the empire to speak Japanese as well as taking Japanese names under the ‘kaiseimei’ policy (改姓名 / かいせいめい). The reason I mention this now is that this is the same time when the name of the station was slightly changed to remove a common character used in Taiwanese Hokkien.

Taking into consideration that the Showa era spanned six decades before, during, and after the war - when we talk about the architecture of the era with regard to Taiwan, we have to focus primarily on what was constructed from 1926 until the 1940s, which ultimately differs somewhat from what you would have seen back in Japan. 

Yamakoashi Station was, as mentioned above, one of the first of Taiwan’s railway stations to receive funding for a complete rebuild and the building we can see today (albeit slightly altered from the original design) was meant to be a model for further construction projects around the country. The station maintained the traditional wooden walls within the interior, but were fortified with brick and reinforced concrete. Similarly, the traditional network of wooden beams and trusses within the building that assisted in supporting the roof were constructed of concrete rather than making use of wood, adding to the stability of the building.

Former ticket booth located directly to the right of the main entrance.

The building however does maintain a similar design to many of Taiwan’s other Japanese-era stations in that it is a one-story rectangular-shaped structure that was split in half. The western side of the building was used as the station hall while the slightly larger eastern side was used by the station master, and those in charge of maintaining the operations of the station.

Surrounding half of the building in a U-shape (to the left of the station hall, around the side and to the back) you’ll find a number of concrete pillars used to help distribute the weight of the roof which extends beyond the base as well as providing a covered walk way around the building. 

More specifically, the station was constructed using the traditional kirizuma-zukuri (切妻造) architectural design, including a variation of a ‘hip-and-gable roof’ (歇山頂) that rises up to resemble a mountain-like structure. Likened to that of an ‘open book’, or the Chinese character “入,” the architectural layout is similar to what we saw previously at the Longtan Martial Arts Hall, there is an obvious east-west fusion (和洋混和風建築) in the design, most noticeably with regard to the windows as there are large beautiful sliding-glass windows that surround the building and are set within wooden frames. You’ll also find windows on both the eastern and western ends of the building located just under the apex of the roof that allow light in from above.

Note: If you’re feeling confused by the roof description, I recommend taking a look at the link below, which rather nicely (or kawaii, if you will) illustrates some of the various styles of traditional Japanese roofs in manga form! 

Link: A Manga Guide to the Beautiful Roofs in Japanese Architecture (Tsunagu Japan)

Having the building split into two halves meant that the interior space was somewhat limited between the public section and the area where the station’s employees worked. When you walk in the front door of the station, you’re automatically met with the ticket window on your right while the left-hand side was reserved as a passenger waiting area. The actual space between the front door and the door to where the turnstiles were located is only a few meters, so the building wasn’t actually constructed to serve a large amount of passengers at once.

The opposite side of the station hall would have been reserved as office space for the employees of the station, but that space likewise included pantry space, washrooms and a tool shed, so the space there was likewise cramped as well.

Today, both the station hall and the employee section are open to the public and you’re free to move back and forth between them. Unfortunately one of the aspects that seems to have stuck with the station is that the area continues to feel quite cramped given that both sides are filled with exhibitions taking up most of the free space.

Personally, I feel like all of the clutter distracts visitors from being able to enjoy the historic architecture of the interior of the building but the exhibitions within tend to change quite often, so when you visit, you may find yourself a bit luckier than I was. 

Link: Shanjia Railway Station (New Taipei City Travel)

Contrary to what you’ll find on the New Taipei City website (linked above) with regard to the opening hours of the station, it is not open from 06:00-24:00 everyday. If you’d like to visit the station, its free of charge, but it is only open from 10:00-17:00, and is closed during national holidays.

Oh, and one last thing, an aspect of Japanese design that stands out at this station isn’t what you could technically refer to as part of the ‘architecture’, but is one of the most significant additions of this historic building - The century-old red-cotton tree (木棉樹) planted next to the building continues to thrive to this day and over the years has grown to twice the height of the station itself. The tree adds a natural element to the station that cannot be understated, and the fact that it continues to exist today makes the station a lot more beautiful.

Getting There

 

Address: #108 Zhongshan Road, Section 3, Shulin District, New Taipei City (新北市樹林區中山里中山路3段108號) 

GPS: 24.972222, 121.392778

As is the case with any of my articles about Taiwan’s historic railway stations, I’m going to say something that shouldn’t really surprise you - When you ask what is the best way to get to the train station, the answer should be pretty obvious: Take the train! 

Shanjia Railway Station is located six stops south of Taipei Main Station (台北車站), and should only take you around twenty minutes to get there on one of the convenient Commuter Trains (區間車). Given that there isn’t really very much else in the area, you’ll also be able to hop on the train again and head back to wherever you came from, or on to your next destination.

That being said, when I say that there isn’t much else in the area, that isn’t exactly true - the next station south of Shanjia is Yingge Station (鶯歌車站), where you’ll find the popular Yingge Ceramics Old Street (鶯歌老街). Likewise, on the opposite side of the Dahan River (大漢溪) you’ll find the similarly popular Sanxia Old Street (三峽老街), both of which are really cool to visit.

Waiting for the train on the platform.

One important thing to note about visiting Shanjia Station on the train is that it is classified as a ‘simple station’, which essentially means that express trains won’t stop there. If you’ve gotten on one of those by mistake, you should get off at either Shulin Station (樹林火車站) if you’re traveling south, or at Yingge Station (鶯歌火車站) if you’re traveling north, and then switch to a local commuter train (區間車).

There are of course other methods of getting to the train station if you’d like to stop by for a visit, including car, bus, scooter, and bicycle. You don’t have to take the train, but if you do plan on visiting, you’d probably be better off making use of Taiwan’s excellent railway network.

If you are driving a car or a scooter, the station is a short drive from Taipei - Simply input the address or the GPS provided above into your Google Maps or your GPS and you’ll find yourself there in no time.

In front of the station you’ll find a bus stop that services buses #702, 802, 847, 852, 885, 889, and F611, most of which originate at Banqiao Bus Terminal (板橋轉運站), or across the river in Sanxia. 

If you’re looking for a bit of exercise, you can easily follow the beautiful riverside bicycle paths south from Taipei or Banqiao all the way to the station, and beyond. Along the way, the paths pass through several wetland areas offering quite a bit of outdoor recreational activities for visitors to see and do. If you have a  bike, or have rented a Youbike, you should have a pretty good time - and yes, there’s a YouBike Station in front of the train station, so if you’re feeling tired you’ll be able to park your bike there and hop on the train back home. 


Tai’an Railway Station (泰安舊車站)

I’ve recently found myself traveling around the country checking out places of interest related to Taiwan’s historic Japanese-era railway. Having spent quite a bit of time in Taichung and Miaoli, I visited a handful of century-old stations that remain in operation today.

Having withstood the test of time, it’s plainly speaking, nothing short of amazing that these historic stations have been able serve their local communities for as long as they have, making them incredibly important with regard to the cultural preservation of a constantly evolving and modernizing nation-state.

Link: Coastal Five Treasures (海線五寶)

That being said, not all of the nation’s historic railway stations have been able to remain in service, and changes in the railway, the demographics of local communities, and several other factors have forced authorities to make changes to improve the quality of the railway network.

In some cases, the older building gets bulldozed to make way for another, and in others, most notably when it comes to the recent transition of the “Mountain Line” (舊山線) to the newer Taichung Line (台中縣), the older stations are phased out as the railway has shifted to an entirely new location.

I’ve been lucky to be able to visit some of the older stations that remain in operation today, but we’re also fortunate that some of the historic stations that have been phased out, such as New Taipei’s Qidu Train Station (舊七堵車站) and Shanjia Station (山佳車站) as well as Taichung’s Tai’an Station (泰安車站) have been preserved as historic properties and converted into Railway Culture Parks.

Today I’ll be introducing the latter of those three examples above, Taichung’s Tai’an Station, a storied transport hub in central Taiwan that despite its size has had a consequential history over the past century.

There are few railway stations that make an appearance in almost all of the history books used in Taiwan’s education system, but Tai’an Station is one of them and there is good reason for that.

So, even though the current “Tai’an Station” is located a couple of kilometers from this historic station, it continues to attract tourists from all over the country to the culture park that exists there today.  

Tai’an Train Station (大安驛 / たいあんえき)

The first station you’ll reach as you cross the Da’an River (大安溪) from Miaoli into Taichung, the Tai’an Railway Station has a history that dates as far back as 1910 (明治43年), but uncharacteristically for a station of its size, has had a considerably active history in terms of the important events that took place over the last century. 

Originating as a simple railway signaling station (信號場) in 1910, it was upgraded two years later into a station named “Taian Station” (大安溪停車場 / たいあんていしゃじょう), or “Daian Station” depending on your preferred method of Japanese romanization. Named after the Da’an River, the original station was constructed entirely of wood and was a beautiful traditional Japanese-style building, with what historic photos show was a pretty beautifully constructed irimoya-style hip-and-gable roof (入母屋造 / いりもやづくり), with western inspired ox-eye windows (牛眼窗) protruding from the front. 

At this point it’s important to note that the station would have originally been better translated as the ‘Taian Railway Depot’ as the Japanese railway system at that time differentiated between ‘depots’ (停車場 / teishajou / ていしゃじょう) and 'passenger stations' (驛 / eki / えき).

For most readers of Chinese, the words “停車場” refer to a parking lot for cars, and few would think that it could also be referring to a train station. Speaking in modern terms, this kind of depot station is most commonly associated with a ‘marshalling yard’ (調車場 / diào chē chǎng), where trains are able to stop for marshaling, the loading of freight, etc. 

Coincidentally, in 1936 (昭和11年), the Ministry of Railways (鐵道󠄁省 / てつどうしょう) back in Japan restructured its railway network classification system eliminating the ‘depot’ or ‘parking lot’ designation.

Nevertheless, ‘Taian’ was officially upgraded into a passenger station well over a decade prior to that taking place, with the station upgraded for the second time to “Tai-an Station” (大安驛 / たいあんえき) in 1920 (大正9年).

First Generation Tai’an Station after the Earthquake (第一代大安車站)

Unfortunately for the station, and the rest of Taiwan, the Shinchiku-Taichū earthquake (新竹‧台中地震 / しんちく‧たいちゅうじしん) of 1935, one of recorded history’s deadliest quakes in Taiwan, was a disaster of epic proportions destroying homes and infrastructure across the island.

With the epicenter of the earthquake located in Houli (后里), a short distance from the station, it shouldn’t be a surprise that the original station was destroyed in addition to much of the railway infrastructure in the area. 

As reparations took place across the island, it would take two years for Tai’an Station to make its return with a freshly constructed station officially re-opening to the public on August 15th, 1937 (昭和12年). This time however, the station was constructed using a modern approach, making use of reinforced concrete and an Art-Deco style of architectural design, which became the standard for many of the stations destroyed by the earthquake. 

Note: Today you’ll find several of these Japanese-era stations featuring almost identical architectural style still in operation. They are: Zaoqiao Station (造橋車站), Tongluo Station (銅鑼車站), Qingshui Station (清水車站), Ershui Station (二水車站), Luzhu Station (路竹車站) and Qiaotou Station (橋頭車站), each of which dates back to the Showa era. 

Interestingly, when the Japanese Colonial Era came to an end in 1945, things at the station remained pretty much the same until it was once again renamed a decade later in 1955 (民國44年).

This time, the rename ended up becoming an issue that could have possibly ignited tensions with the local community, so the Taiwan Railway Administration made a decision that remains quite surprising - Instead of simply changing the name of the station to ‘Da’an Station’ (大安車站), the Mandarin pronunciation of the original name - they changed the Chinese characters to “泰安“ (tài ān).

The change was somewhat ingenious as in Mandarin these two character can be considered an abbreviation of the phrase “國泰民安“ (guó tài mín ān), which translates into English as ‘a safe and prosperous nation’. More importantly however, the characters maintained the original Japanese-language pronunciation that had been used for half a century. 

While this ‘renaming situation’ wasn’t unique with the changes brought by the new regime, it is a particularly interesting one if you’re interested in linguistics. 

Tai’an Station remained a relatively quiet one for the following decades given that it was classified as a Simple Station, which meant that only Local Commuter Trains (區間車) would stop by to pick up passengers.

As Taiwan modernized and the population continued to grow however, the bottleneck caused by the single-rail bridge between Miaoli and Taichung caused issues that were rectified by the construction of an entirely new line located to the west of the current station. That line, which officially opened for service in 1998 (民國87年) shifted service from the old Tai’an Station to a newly constructed elevated station about a kilometer away.

When this happened, the historic station was left abandoned for a short time before it was converted into the ‘Tai'an Railway Cultural Park’ (泰安鐵道文化園區), so that tourists could visit and learn about the history of Taiwan’s railways and the history of the local area.

Before I get move onto the architectural design of the station, I’m going to offer a brief timeline of important events at the station over the past century from when it was first constructed until now: 

Timeline

  • 12/01/1910 (明治43年) - The Tai’an River Signal Station (大安溪信號場) opens for operation.

  • 07/01/1912 (大正元年) - The Signal Station is upgraded to Tai’an River Station (大安溪停車場)

  • 10/01/1920 (大正9年) - The station is officially renamed ‘Tai-an Station’ (大安驛).

  • 04/21/1935 (昭和10年) - The magnitude 7.1 Shinchiku-Taichū earthquake (新竹‧台中地震 / しんちく‧たいちゅうじしん) with an epicenter in Houli rocks the island becoming the deadliest quake in Taiwan’s recorded history and causes massive damage around the island.

  • 04/21/1935 (昭和10年) - The wooden Tai-an Station is destroyed by the earthquake.

  • 08/15/1937 (昭和12年) - Tai-an Station reopens for service with a completely reconstructed station hall with an architectural design similar to Zōkyō Station (造橋驛 / ぞうきょうえき) in Miaoli, known today as Zaoqiao Station.

  • 07/15/1938 (昭和13年) - The Earthquake Memorial is installed near the tracks at the station.

  • 08/15/1945 (昭和20年) - The Second World War comes to an end and the Japanese surrender control of Taiwan to the Chinese Nationalists.

  • 03/01/1955 (民國44年) - The station is officially renamed “Tai’an Station” (泰安車站).

  • 03/01/1967 (民國56年) - The underground tunnel between the station and the platform area is constructed.

  • 09/24/1998 (民國87年) - The new elevated Taichung Line (台中縣) is completed and the railway is re-routed west of the original line. The newly constructed Tai’an Station (泰安火車站) officially opens for service and the historic station is abandoned.

  • 11/26/2002 (民國91年) - Tai’an Station is registered as a Taichung County Historic Property (臺中縣市定古蹟)

  • 06/05/2010 (民國99年) - The Old Mountain Line is resurrected for a day with a special CK124 Steam Engine nostalgia trip from Sanyi (三義車站) to Tai’an.

  • 06/01/2017 (民國106年) - The Tai'an Railway Cultural Park (泰安鐵道文化園區) opens to the public, adding another attraction to the already popular village where you’ll find cherry blossoms and bald cypress trees throughout the year.

Architectural Design

For the first few decades of the Japanese Colonial Era, the majority of Taiwan’s relatively smaller railway stations were constructed primarily with wood, and made use of traditional Japanese architectural design. Only the larger stations in major cities such as Keelung, Taipei, Hsinchu, Taichung and Kaohsiung would have received additional funding for the construction of a concrete structure on a larger and grander scale. 

After the devastating earthquake in 1935 toppled infrastructure around the island, the Governor General’s office was forced to come to terms with the fact that attitudes toward building standards in Taiwan would have to be changed and earthquake-proofing would have to be on par with the rest of Japan.

By the beginning of the Taisho Era in 1912, changes had started taking place around the island with more and more buildings constructed using reinforced concrete. However, if it wasn’t already falling apart, authorities weren’t all that keen on constructing anything new until absolutely necessary.

Then, in 1933 (昭和8年), the second generation Nisui Station (二水驛/にすいえき) was constructed in southern Changhua (彰化). Making use of reinforced concrete with designs by famed architect Ujiki Takeo (宇敷赳夫 / うじき たけお), the station (Known today as Ershui Station) would be the model for an architectural style that would become a standard around the island for the next few years.

Note: Ujiki Takeo is also credited with other important buildings, many of which still exist today including, Kagi Station (嘉義驛), Shin'ei Station (新營驛), Tainan Station (臺南驛), Hsinchu Library (新竹州圖書館) and the Songshan Railway Workshop (松山機廠). He’s also credited with a few historic buildings that aren’t around anymore, most notably including the Third Generation Taihoku Station (第三代臺北驛). 

Link: 日治後期火車站、鐵道大多出自他之手──現代Art Deco風格設計者「宇敷赳夫」 (Story Studio)

Holding a number of positions throughout his years in Taiwan, Ujiki was appointed to Taiwan Railway Department of the Bureau of Transportation (臺灣總督府交通局鐵道部 / たいわんそうとくふてつどう) in 1929 (昭和4年), and it was from there that his influence on the construction of several important railway stations started to appear across the island. Known for his appreciation for Art Deco and a modernist approach to architectural design, the stations constructed with his designs are known for their usage of reinforced concrete, western-fusion design and flat roofs. 

Prior to 1935, Ujiki oversaw the construction of Nisui Station as mentioned above, followed by the similarly designed Shin'ei Station (新營驛 / しんええき) in 1934 (昭和9年). After the devastating earthquake, several stations around the island had to be rebuilt, especially in the Miaoli and Taichung area, and it was decided that the standard set by the architectural design of both Nisui and Shin’ei stations would be used for all of them.

The rebuilding project starting with Zōkyō Station (造橋驛 / ぞうきょうえき) in 1935 (昭和10年) and was followed by Dora Station (銅鑼驛 / どうらえき), Kiyomizu Station (清水驛 / きよみずえき) and Tai’an Station.

The usage of reinforced concrete in the construction of these buildings was a game-changer when it came to ensuring the longevity of these train stations, but what few people realize with regard to the biggest accomplishments of Ujiki’s architectural design influence was their people-centric shifts. Designed in a way that allocated increased interior space for passengers within the station hall in addition to providing a larger and more comfortable space for the staff working at the station. These ‘modern’ stations improved upon the earlier traditional Japanese-style stations by offering a comfortable space to wait for the arrival of the trains.

The stations of the late 1930s continued with the modernist approach to architecture and expertly fused western-style design, or more specially Art-Deco and baroque elements. For some, this architectural style was sleek and modern, but detractors noted the lack of decorative elements as a departure from traditional Japanese design. 

That being said, even though the stations designed by Ujiki appear relatively similar in their architectural design, there are still some slight variations in their layouts which varies based on the length and height of the stations. That being said, within each of the stations constructed after the 1935 earthquake you’d find the following rooms, divided between the ‘administrative section’ and the ‘passenger section’.

  1. Administration Office (事務室 / じむしつ)

  2. Station Hall (待合室 / まちあいしつ)

  3. Tea Room (湯沸室 / ゆわかししつ)

  4. Kerosene Room (洋燈庫 / とうゆしつ)

  5. Storeroom (物置 /ものおき)

  6. Portico / Walkways (廊下 / ろうか)

The largest of the three stations constructed after the earthquake, Tai’an’s interior was quite spacious with the passenger section featuring a large waiting room and service counter. The Station Hall featured five meter high ceilings and relied on the large windows located on three sides of the room to provide most of the light. However, given that the covered portico walkway on the exterior of the building would have blocked some of the light coming into the building from the larger windows, an extra layer of windows was positioned above offering an extra layer of natural light.

Set along the walls against the windows were three long wooden benches provided for the passengers who were waiting for the trains. In what would have been the only real decorative element of the interior, there were permanent flower pedestals (花台 / はなだい) located on both of the corners of the eastern side of the building. The pedestals helped to separate the three benches, and would have allowed to add a bit of nature to the concrete building. 

The western end of the Station Hall was home to the ticket booth, a train schedule and another window where passengers could better interact with the staff. Finally, on the southern side was the beautiful wooden turnstile (which still exists today), allowing passengers to make their way through to the stairs to the platforms. 

The Administrative Section of the station included the Administrative Office and a Tea Room where employees could relax. While not as large as the Station Hall, this area was still quite spacious given the amount of passengers who would have passed through the station. Part of the reason for this was because the station continued to act as a Signal Station for several decades, meaning that there would have been more employees than a typical station. To the rear of the Administrative Section you’d also find another couple of rooms, one was simply a storeroom and the other was used as a room to store kerosene (prior to the electrification of the area).  

Coincidentally the only room that isn’t currently open to the public is the kerosene room, so I’m assuming that it was later converted for another usage and the interior is home to electrical devices (likely the security camera console) that they don’t want a bunch of tourists playing with

Finally, the covered portico that stretches from the front entrance to the eastern side of the building and around to the rear is probably one of the more noticeably ‘Japanese’ inspired elements of the architectural design. While this covered walkway features a similarly flat roof as the rest of the building, its addition adds to the Art-Deco design while also allowing for some traditional design elements.

Porticos of this nature are common throughout traditional Japanese architectural design and can be found on temples, shrines and other important buildings throughout Japan. In this case, the covered roof is supported by beautifully designed cement pillars on the exterior of the building.

While walking along the eastern side of the building, the portico extends quite a bit further and would have been a pretty great place to escape the hot central Taiwan sun while waiting for friends and loved ones. 

When you pass through the turnstiles you’re met with an underground walkway that brings you to a set of stairs where the platforms are located. This underground walkway was constructed in 1967 (民國56年), replacing the steep set of stairs that brought passengers to the platforms, and ultimately required them to (dangerously) walk across the tracks.

Today you can walk around the platform area and can hop onto the tracks where you’ll find an old wooden building that served as the Signal Station for as long as the station was in operation. I’m guessing at some point they’ll likely restore the building and open it up to the public, but as of now it’s not currently open to the public.  

Now that I’ve spent some time talking about the architectural design of the station, there are a couple of other things to take note of when you visit the station, but it seems like most people miss them because they don’t explore (or feel like walking around), so allow me a minute or two to introduce each of them below. 

Da’an River Iron Bridge (舊山線大安溪鐵橋)

Constructed in 1908 (明治41年), the 637 meter long Da’an River Iron Bridge crosses the Da’an River that geographically separates Miaoli and Taichung. The single rail bridge was in operation from February 20th, 1908 until September 24th, 1998 when the old Mountain Line (舊山線) ceased operations in lieu of the newly constructed Taichung Line (台中線). 

Coincidentally, issues regarding the infrastructure and planning of the Mountain Line created a bottleneck along the railway on several different occasions resulting in the necessity for the construction of the Coastal Railway between Miaoli and Taichung in 1922. Fortunately, that line had already been in use for well over a decade when the massive 1935 earthquake rocked Taiwan, causing considerable damage to the mountain line, and requiring a period of repair for this bridge. 

Link: 大安溪鐵橋 (Wiki)

In the years since the Mountain Line was abandoned, the bridge has become somewhat of a popular photo spot with Instagrammers flocking from all over the country to get a photo of themselves crossing the bridge. Unfortunately, crossing the bridge for pedestrians can be a bit dangerous, so the local authorities had to erect a barrier along the Taichung side where the bridge is most easily accessible thanks to Tai’an Station.

That being said you can still visit the Miaoli side if you’re able figure out how to get there.    

Tai’an Earthquake Memorial (台中線震災復興記念碑)

One of the things you’ll definitely want to take note of while exploring the railway area of the Tai’an Railway Cultural Park is the 1935 Taichung-Hsinchu earthquake memorial, located in a forest covered park area on the opposite side of the tracks from the station. 

The memorial is one of five sites erected by the Japanese for this particular earthquake in the Taichung and Miaoli area, but this one in particular focuses on the effects that it had n the railway, and those who died during the quake as well as during the reconstruction efforts.

It is said that some of the bodies of those who perished while assisting in the reconstruction efforts after the earthquake are buried beneath it, making it somewhat of a sacred memorial for locals. 

Link: 1935 Shinchiku-Taichū earthquake | 1935年新竹–台中地震 (Wiki)

The memorial features a Japanese-language inscribed plaque on its base with a recently translated Chinese-language plaque placed below it. Interestingly, over the years, quite a few of these historic stone inscribed objects have been vandalized with any mention of the Japanese era, or the emperor removed.

In this case though, the whole thing remains intact, which is likely a sign of respect for the efforts the Japanese authorities of the time made to help save the local population, which became one of the most endearing moments during the colonial era.

Number Eight Tunnel (舊山線八號隧道)

A short distance from Tai’an Station you’ll find the similarly abandoned ‘Number 8’ railway tunnel, another popular stop for visitors checking out the station. The tunnel is located next to the equally historic Japanese-era Houli canal (后里圳), a twenty kilometer-long water distribution network that dates back to 1913 (大正2年). The almost one kilometer-long (816m) is similar to the popular Qiding Railway Tunnels (崎頂子母隧道), but has yet to receive much attention in terms of making it a tourist destination. It’s the kind of place that you have to be in the know (or have been told about it) to know of its existence.

If you’d like to visit the tunnel while in Tai’An, it’s best to grab a YouBike and continue to ride along Fuxing Road (復興路) until you reach the very narrow Yongxing Road (永興路) where you’ll find one of the two entrances to where the tunnel is located as you pass by the Houli Canal. The easiest entrance (where you’ll be able to park your Youbike) is located along a curve in the road as it stretches up the mountain.

There is a barrier at the entrance to prevent cars from going in, but you can just walk past it and follow the canal until you reach the tunnel. 

Getting There

 

 
Address: #52 Fuxing Road, Houli District, Taichung (臺中市后里區泰安里福興路52號)

GPS: 24.323050, 120.749050

Most of the time, when I write about Taiwan’s historic train stations, I insist that if you’re going to visit one of them that you should simply take the train. In this case though, taking the train is going to require a bit of a walk, so if you plan on visiting you might want to consider grabbing one of the Youbikes outside of the current Tai’an Station in order to make your way over to the historic one. 

If you’re taking the train, you’ll have to keep in mind that most of the time only local commuter trains (區間車) make a stop at Tai’an Station. But if you’re traveling there from Taichung Station, that won’t be much of an issue as it’s only a few stops away. From the station, its about a twenty minute walk, but as mentioned above there are YouBikes available for rent in front of the new station and you can easily dock the bike next to the old station while visiting. It’s possible that you could find a taxi near the station, but I didn’t see any during my visit, and the road from the new station to the old station is pretty narrow, so taxi drivers probably aren’t really all that into ferrying people back and forth.

Personally, I think the best method is taking a Youbike as you’ll get to ride through the the farmland along the river on your way to the old station. It’s a nice ride and is much more enjoyable on a bicycle than it is on a scooter given that you can enjoy the scenery while also saving some time.

Officially, the old station is 1.8km from the new station, so if you’re walking, its estimated that you’ll need twenty minutes, but the bike ride is estimated at around six minutes. With a Youbike station available next to both the old and new stations.

If you’re on a Youbike, make your way to either Zhonghua East Road (重劃東路) where you’ll make a right turn and follow the riverside straight all the way, or turn left on An-mei road (安眉路) and continue straight until you find yourself in the community where the station is located. As you get off the train and make your way to the Youbike station, you’ll find that Anmei Road is the closest option with the riverside route requiring you to backtrack a bit.

If you’re in the area I recommend taking the scenic route. It may be a little extra work, but it’s certainly worth it.

If on the other hand you’re driving a car or a scooter, I recommend simply inputting the address or GPS provided above into your GPS or Google Maps and it’ll map out the best route for getting to the station.

With that in mind, it’s important to note that there is limited parking near the station, so if you’re visiting on the weekend when there are likely to be increased numbers of tourists, it’s going to be difficult to find a space.

The community near the old station is pretty small and the road is very narrow, so if you randomly park your car on the side of the road and get out to go check it out, you’re likely to get a ticket, have a photo taken of your car by one of the locals or towed.

The Tai’an Station Railway Cultural Park is an interesting place to visit and has become quite popular in recent years with tourists, especially during the cherry blossom season, or when the bald cypress trees nearby are changing colors. The historic community has marketed itself quite well with events throughout the year attracting tourists from all over the country. That being said if you’d like to see one of these train stations in action, I recommend stopping by Zaoqiao Station (造橋車站) in Miaoli or Qingshui Station (清水車站) in Taichung, which are both relatively nearby and are almost architecturally identical. Visiting Tai’an Station however allows you considerable more access to the station and the railway where you’re free to walk around and enjoy it all at your leisure.  

References

  1. Tai'an Old railway station泰安車站泰安旧駅 (Wiki)

  2. 泰安鐵道文化園區 (大玩台中)

  3. 縱貫鐵路舊山線--泰安車站 (台中市文化資產處)

  4. 縱貫鐵路舊山線—泰安車站 (國家文化資產處)

  5. 舊泰安車站‧在舊山線停駛之後的鐵道文化園區 (旅行圖中)

  6. 臺中縣縣定古蹟縱貫鐵路舊山線泰安車站調查研究暨修復計畫 (臺灣記憶)

  7. 台中泰安鐵道文化園區 凝結百年時空歲月的泰安舊火車站 (微笑台灣)

  8. [台中后里] .舊泰安車站.台糖月眉糖廠.千年樟樹公 (Tony的自然人文旅記)

  9. 日治時期台灣鐵道車站空間的形式與機能 (宋玉真/陳怡玲)

  10. 泰安車站 (臺灣驛站之遊)

  11. 泰安舊站 (鐵貓)

  12. 臺中市文化資產 (Wiki)

  13. 宇敷赳夫 - 中文 | 日文 (Wiki)